600EX-RT--Need some good, quick settings!

Greetings everyone!
     I've got a not-very-difficult-to-solve problem..but perhaps a new situation to which it applies
     I've got two Speedlite 600EX-RT's. I bought the second when the first stopped working. The second one stopped working as well. Sent it in for warranty work and it's fine. So I sent the first one in as well. It's in the shop right now.
     The issue is this: I'm leaving town this coming Tuesday for San Diego to shoot pics at Comic-Con. I'm comfortably certain there's no way that my flash will be reparied and sent back to me here in Alaska by Monday night.
     Now the potential saving grace...the repair office is only 86 miles from San Diego! So there's a possibility I can drive and pick it up in person
     Now the problem (Sorry for the long-windedness): The whole reason I want this flash reparied is to use as a portable off camera flash setup. And Comic-Con is where I really want to do this. But I've never worked with two flashes like this before.
     So...what are the "best" settings to use for this setup? I'm envisioning the on-camera being just the transmitter, no flash. And I'm most comfortable using E-TTL. So, since I will have almost no time to play around with this before Go Time, what settings do I need to use for the on-camera "transmitter" and the off-camera flash?
     The "good" news is that this is just me, not a paying/pro gig, so there's no pressure to perform, apart from my desire to get quality shots for people.
     Thanks a ton in advance for any help you fine folks can provide!
P.S.- I do have the manual...what I'm looking for are "For Dummies" explinations and anything that's not in the manual

nuncle wrote:
     While wandering around inside, I use either no flash with the white balance adjusted, or I bounce my on camera flash, for the most part.
Just remember, white balance won't fix the difference between fluorescent and your flash (which is essentially the color of daylight). If you set the white balance for the flash then anything exposed by ambient will be a sickly green color. If you set for ambient then your subject will be magenta. I'd pick up a Roscoe sample book.
Also, don't rely on being able to bounce. Bouncing is great, when the room allows it. But if you don't have low white ceilings or a big white wall you might run into problems. Isn't in the SD convention center? The big glass one?
nuncle wrote:
So, if you were outside, with either bright sun or partly cloudy (That was the weather there every day last year), with the two flash setup, what would you use for settings?
So, am I correct that you're going to be asking people to pose for you? As opposed to taking quick candids of whoever walks by?
In bright sun I'd probably just keep the flash on-camera in and hope for the best . If the sun is hitting your subject straight on then you'll need a bare flash shooting straight at them just to try to fill for the sun. In this situation you're actually better off with a reflector and/or scrim (translucent shade held between sun and subject). But both of those require assistants. Direct sun is harsh, not great for shooting.
If the sun isn't directly overhead and you can get your subjects back to the sun, then you can get some real nice shots with just a single fill.   An off-camera flash in a softbox is great, but it has limitations: it might not be strong enough, you have to get your subject to pose up close to the modifier, you lose the freedom of movement with on-camera flash, and umbrellas in outdoor situations tend to blow over, a lot. It's worth a shot if you want to give it a go, but I'd bring sand bags, and be prepared to scrap the whole setup and go on-camera if it doesn't work out. Put a big white bounce card on your flash and let er rip.   If the flash isn't strong enough to match the background with the bounce, then just shoot direct.
Now, if I could find a some decent shaded area, or it's overcast enough, then optimally I'd set up my key in the umbrella (sand bags!) just off to one side and keep my on-camera flash dialed way down (2-3 stops). Actually, using the bounce card on the on-camera will help diffuse the light and you don't need it too strong anyway.   If you had a way to get both flashes off camera I'd go with a standard high-key lighting setup. Lights on each side at 45 degrees, drop one of them 1 stop below the other.
One note about eTTL. The pre-flash can make people blink. It's also inconsistent, moreso when working as fill. If you're going to set up lighting and have people pose, then I'd just shoot in manual. If you're shooting on-camera and trying to be quick, then eTTL is the way to go.

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MOVED: p7N vanilla 750i - what are some good OC settings?

This topic has been moved to Overclockers & Modding Corner.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=122755.0

Thank you FP for the link to Real Temp.
Real Temp, in it's second screen, shows min-max CPU VID which will tell us how high the CPU V's can be raised without causing permanent damage or overly shortening the CPU's life. Any amount of OC'ing has the potential to shorten component life.
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Recommend opening a written log book of all current settings in bios before proceeding, as by a fourth restart, the bios more than likely will need to be reset again. (Also record all the 'final' working settings & V's so as to return to them if needed).
Did find data for an XFinity 600, but not a 650. The 600 had two +12V rails, V1 18A & V2 20A, so don't expect the 650 to be less.
CPU-Z, Everest, & Real Temp, & others, are great tools to help with valuable information to OC successfully.
It's very possible, with just raising the CPU V's a small amount, & raising FSB Clock, you will reach 3.2G's fairly easy.
Target: FSB Clock 1424 (356) X9 Multiplier = 3.204G's.
As a side note, it may also be possible to optimize your mem. modules as well. Are they PC-6400's or PC-8500's?

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import org.w3c.dom.Node;
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Let me warn you up front: never mark your questions as urgent. People really don't care how urgent it is to you, and will likely only irritate them enough to not want to help you. Lucky for you, I couldn't care less ;)
you seem to want to get an uploaded file using FileUpload. Did you see the user guide on how to do this? You seem to be going about it in completely the wrong way.
[FileUpload user guide|http://commons.apache.org/fileupload/using.html]
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FileOutputStream fos = new FileOutputStream("C:/Documents and Settings/Andrew Hobbs/Desktop/helloworld.txt");Hardcoded paths in your code? Not very portable is it. I would define paths in a properties file. Read this:
[smartly loading properties|http://www.javaworld.com/javaworld/javaqa/2003-08/01-qa-0808-property.html]

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I couldn't find an Illy file in the end and have ended up creating tables in ID to replicate what was already there!
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Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2011 08:48:07 -0700
From: [email protected]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Need some quick help - fairly urgent!
    Re: Need some quick help - fairly urgent!
    created by Peter Spier in InDesign - View the full discussion
There certainly are viable "quick fix" solutions proposed here, and if the dealine is looming and this file never needs to be touched again I might be tempted, but they are only postponing the pain for a file that needs periodic updates, and I wouldn't waste effort on them, myself, when that time can be put toward a proper rebuild now if that's the ultimate goal.
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600EX-RT--Need some good, quick settings!

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