6233 circuit board fried

i don't know if this has happened to any of you in the past. my 6233 went off by itself last week and refused to stay on past 5 seconds after that. brought it in to a mobile center to flash but when i went there today was told that the circuit board was damaged. don't know how it happened and this was the first time i experienced this. the phone has never gone anywhere near water and have never been opened. do i have to resort to buying a new phone or is there still hope in getting it repaired.
everything happens for a reason
check out my blog @ http://mycellife.blogspot.com/

25-Sep-200709:52 PM
6280 wrote:
Ok.
Did the phone have an original battery?
Did you knock it or anything?
I think there is hope in getting it repaired because it wasn't your fault wasn't it...?
i have the original battery and it was never knocked or even come close to water. this is so strange. but i don't believe these guys 100% because the alarm still function. it comes on when it alarm with display, and then when i turn off the alarm its dead again.
everything happens for a reason
check out my blog @ http://mycellife.blogspot.com/

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I am trying to use the RS232 to control a circuit board. It would have to simultaneously output SerialClock, DataIn, and Chip Select signals, while also receiving DataOut signals; therefore 4 signals total. Does anyone know if it this is possible?

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Swapping circuit boards for an internal hard drive

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Lot's of good question Will,
Hard drives are not what they used to be, if your work is important I'd replace them every 3 years & have 2 backups in the meantime.
I doubt you can get the circuit boards separate without buying a while questionable drive.
If I'm able to get a new circuit board, how easy is it to replace myself? The guy at Digital Society did it very quickly and for a price of $120.
1 TB 3 year warranty $99...
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Samsung/HD103SJ/
1 TB 7 year warranty...
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Samsung/HE103UJ/
More cheaper drives...
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/hard-drives/3.5-SerialATA/WesternDigitalCaviar

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Hi Dave,
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http://www.macwireless.com/html/products/antennas_boosters/whips.php
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clevelandbrowns2008:
Welcome to Apple Discussions.
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650-40211 Auto.vi ‏2457 KB

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<...>
Here is part of his earlier post for general info:
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<...>
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Hard drive in Pismo not recognized; is my logic board fried?

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Hey there. I'm trying to draw back my G3-era knowledge but it's taking me a while!
I can't remember if you can access Apple System Profiler from the 10.4 install disk, but if you can, do so with the internal hard drive connected and see what it says for the ATA section.
PowerBook G3s are wonderful computers. I still have mine around although I finally retired it from my desk a while back (it was not as my main computer of course, but usually was used for IRC or Facebook or something like that) because my mom entered the computer world when someone gave her an iMac G3 with 333 whopping MHz! I gave her the RAM modules out of my Wallstreet G3 to get her from 64 to 512 MB and imaged my drive onto hers (to keep from having to redo the lovely XPostFacto 10.4 install) and she used it for around a year, happily, before upgrading to a MacBook Pro. Now that she's not using the iMac, I could steal my RAM (and that 333 MHz CPU card, heh mine's only a 266!) back. :-P
I had one of those SCSI adaptors that turned the odd square plug (can't remember what it was called now) into a normal 25 pin. I left it connected all the time because the screen hinge had failed and it kept the screen at a usable angle. Some may call it "ghetto," but I prefer the term improvisational usage technique.
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Regards,
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Message was edited by: ryan42

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Ok, I have tried 5 cards now, in all 3 ports and the exact same thing happens. 460GTX, GTS250, 8800GTS, 7950GT, 7600GT
I completed a succesful benchmark with Vantage with the onboard video.
It ran 2 1HR prime95 sessions, 1 with onboard and 1 with a card in the slot (Standard VGA adapter), the system and PSU are stable
Everything was stripped from the case and run at my workstation, with only 1 HDD, 1 stick of RAM, BIOS defaults. It runs beautifully, until the machine reboots after video driver install.
I handle the board VERY gently, but it does a lot of "crackling" like something is loose or not set properly onto the board. As stated, I have another NF980-G65 in my other system and it runs all of the hardware fine and seems to be much more solidly built.
I'm going to box it up and return it again, there simply is no other option. Hopefully the next one will work properly.

New T430s has exposed circuit board

Thought I would start a new topic after mentioning it in a thread about loose arrow keys...
I can see the inside of my T430s from a gap at the back of the keyboard. I can actually see green circuitboard exposed there if I shine a flashlight through the crack above the F7 key. There is some printing on the board that says "R186".
The only thing I've attempted to open on this laptop is the RAM compartment, so its not from tinkering. This is how my T430s was built.
A couple photos:
Link to image 1
Link to image 2
At least in my case, the Thinkpad claim to spill resistance seems to be defeated. I've owned more than a few laptops (and used more at work) and never, ever noticed an exposed circuitboard before.
Wondering who else has this and what I should do...
Edit: The camera couldn't be placed any farther back to show the full width of the gap, since a piece of black fabric is just below the visible circuitboard... the camera only picks up blackness from that angle but my eyes can see what is basically a 2.5-3mm rectangular gap between the top keyboard bezel and the rim of the notebook body. In total, the gap runs from about the right edge of the F5 key to the left edge of the F10 key; Various things are exposed but the circuitboard part is only about the width of a key.
Moderator comment: Once again, image(s) >50KB (or totaling >50KB) converted to link(s) to conform to the Community Rules.

First, when you opened the memory cover, you were working in the area that holds the keyboard in place. There was one more screw involved and it is right where you were working, inside the memory cover. The keyboard goes in last during assembly, right before they close up the memory cover. When installing the keyboard you slide the front lip under the bezel and push it forward to get enough room to be able to get the tabs at the back of the heyboard enough room so that they can get bu the other edge of the bezel. Then, you gently pull/push the keyboard back to center it in the space. Either your bezel is defective or that last step didn't get done correctly. (My description probably makes more sense if you have done it a hundred times.) If it were mine, I would take off the memory cover, remove the keyboard mounting screw and slide the keyboard into place. If my description makes no sense, you could call service.

6233 circuit board fried

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