70D pics to lapto

I have a new 70D and just attempted to move some pictures to my laptop via a USB cable. I have tried many things that various internet locations advised with no success. I give up!! Any ideas out there?? I will go to Pro Photo on Tue. where I bought the camera and plead my case but would sure like some help here. Thanks

Doesn't your laptop have a card reader? I highly recommend using a card reader over hooking up a USB cable. But if you prefer/need to do it via USB cable, you have to have the Canon software loaded, as John said.

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Installed the CC updates yesterday. Downloaded pics from my Canon 70D in Camera Raw. Since the updates Bridge no longer recognizes them; advises me to get the latest update, which I have. Both Photoshop CC's recognize the pics, just not Bridge (thanks for

Installed the CC updates yesterday. Downloaded pics from my Canon 70D in Camera Raw. Since the updates Bridge no longer recognizes them; advises me to get the latest update, which I have. Both Photoshop CC's recognize the pics, just not Bridge (thanks for having Photoshop now show thumbnails of CR pics). Any Ideas on how to fix?

Thanks for the link Jeff. Couldn't find any links on the Adobe site.
Even with that link though, I was still left puzzled as it didn't give multiple versions, just a 32 bit and 64 bit version.
I tried the 64 bit and it didn't work, so I assumed that was what had already been installed in the update.
Now installed the 32 bit version, and fingers crossed. At least it starts up now!
Cheers Russell F

Importing raw format pics to PSE 12

Am having trouble importing raw format pics from Canon 70D to PSE 12. Was told PSE 12 had all necessary software for that. When try to download, message telling me that PSE 12 does not support my camera or format type. Do I need to save my photos with different extension than cr2before importing? Do I need to download PNG or updated software from Adobe site? Thanks for any help. Rob

PSE12 ships with ACR8.0/8.1. Support for the 70D was in ACR8.2. Run Help> Updates, this updates to ACR8.4 and you will have 70D support.
Cheers,
Neale
Insanity is hereditary, you get it from your children
If this post or another user's post resolves the original issue, please mark the posts as correct and/or helpful accordingly. This helps other users with similar trouble get answers to their questions quicker. Thanks.

70D color cast in viewfinder

I just got back from a big box store where I was comparing the feel of the 70D w/18-135 with a Rebel w/18-55. No filters.
While looking through the viewfinder of the 70D, everything was noticeably tinted - sort of a light serpia. I didn't try LV. The view through the Rebel was neutral. The tint was uniform across the entire view, not spotty or such.
The clerk took a couple of pics and the color looked right on the rear LCD, but through the viewfinder the color was distinct and disturbing.
I know these display cameras take a beating, but I wonder what could be wrong.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Hi j-p!
Thanks for posting.
Compared to the Rebel, the EOS 70D has a different type of viewfinder. The viewfinder on the Rebel sends light directly over the focusing screen and through the eyepiece. However, the viewfinder on the EOS 70D uses a transparent LCD. More information is able to be displayed including the more advanced focusing system. There will appear to be a slight color difference, mostly a more tinted look, especially when the camera is powered off. This is not as noticeable when the camera is powered on.
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70D - bright lights cuasing artifacts when shooting video

I'm getting lots of artifacts created by bright light sources when shooting video. It seems to be the intensity of the light and not the type of light that is the problem. They show up in the picture as a kind of mirror reflection, often in green, on a different part of the image. Any ideas how to avoid this?
Canon 70D, 50mm 1.8, NTSC, 30fps, 1/60 shutter, no filters
video shows the problem http://youtu.be/iCAiGoJCGSM
The bottom of this pic shows the green reflections from the lights at the top

metice wrote:
Thanks Tim, the lens is the Canon 50mm 1.8.
I'm using a UV filter - is it worth taking this off?
I'm quite disappointed because it's very noticeable on many night shots which have the light source in the frame. Anything else that can be done to lessen the glare, apart from changing the lens?
Hi,
Yes, those are definitely optically related flare effects.
And, yes, definitely try again without the UV filter, especially if it's an inexpensive, single-coated or uncoated filter. Any filter will increase flare effects when shooting in tough lighting situations like these, a high quality multi-coated might minimize it but still is likely to show some add'l flare. Cheaper filters can do horrid things to your images, potentially blurring them and causing focus errors, in addition to increasing flare effects.
Try using a lens hood, too. That physically protects the lens, but also can minimize veiling and other types of flare from bright light sources just outside the image area by preventing oblique light from striking the lens. The 50/1.8 has fairly well recessed front element, but a hood might help even more. Since you are using the lens on a crop sensor camera, instead of the OEM hood (which is designed for full frame), you might look for a 52mm screw-in hood designed for a short telephoto.
Unfortunately, you will still see some flare effects... The 50/1.8 isn't the best lens dealing with flare. The EF 50/1.4 and Sigma 50/1.4 both are better, but of course they cost more. Also, the 5-bladed aperture of the 50/1.8 contributes to the appearance of those flare effects... The 8-bladed aperture of the EF 50/1.4 or the 9-bladed aperture of the Sigma 50/1.4 give somewhat nicer background blur results (the eight curved blades or the premium EF 50/1.2L can be even better, but that's a rather pricey lens).
You also might experiment with stopping the lens down a little... both the Canon EF 50/1.8 and 50/1.4 are sharper at f2.0 or f2.2 than they are wide open. You might find they control flare better at a bit smaller aperture, too. I'd experiment with f4, f5.6 and f8, too.
A zoom lens likely would be worse than using a prime such as you are doing. But some zooms deal with flare pretty effectively.
Also watch the viewfinder and try slightly changing your position. Even just a little change can make a huge difference.
Compare these two images I made with my 24-70/2.8L.... I could see the flare occurring in the viewfinder and all I did to dodge a lot of it was change my position slightly.
I nearly always use a lens hood. Here's an example of the difference a lens hood can make. The EF-S 10-22mm lens has a huge lens hood that's a bit of a pain to pack. (Most Canon hoods reverse neatly on the lens for storage in minimal space. The 10-22mm's hood is just too large diameter to do that comfortably in any of my camera bags.) I thought about using the lens without any hood, since it's very shallow and doesn't seem it would be very effective anyway, so I did the following test shots...
As you can see, the first shot without the hood showed a very strong ghost flare. The second shot, after simply adding the hood, shows no flare at all. Note: it was a breezy day, so the clouds moved a bit while I was installing the lens hood. But, obviously the hood is effective. So I carry and use the hood, even if it is a bit of a pain.
Finally, there are times when flare effects can work for you, might actually add to the image. For example, I think that's the case here...
Above is a bit abstact... it's the sun reflecting off the corner of a building and was shot with an EF 100/2.8 USM macro lens. I think it would be pretty boring without the flare effects.
Regarding filters... I have various that I use, too. Including UV for "protection" (plus C-Pol and othersfor different purposes). They are all stored in my camera bag until actually needed. I never leave a filter on a lens all the time. IMO it's sort of silly to expect much real "protection" from a thin piece of glass (I've actually seen lenses gouged and damaged by broken filters). And there are just too many situations such as yours, where a filter can do more harm than good in the images. Another imporant factor... I use mostly B+W MRC and Hoya HMC or SHMC filters, which are high quality, multi-coated. There are other high quality brands... in fact most manufacturers offer different qrades at different price ranges.
Plus, when using a filter, it's even more important to use a lens hood as well, to keep oblilque light off the filter.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

70D bounce flash

Hi,
Recently I upgraded my 650D to the 70D and I noticed that the pictures are a lot darker (underexposed) when bouncing the flash. I have tested this with several other cameras, the 600D, 650D and the 700D using the 430EXII and 580EX all with the 18-135 STM. All but the 70D resulted in acceptable exposure.
Is there a setting I am missing? I used both the [A+] and P setting.

What the OP is seeing is a fairly well documented problem at this point. I believe the problem is a bug/defect with most (if not all) 70D's. I'm hoping Canon will be able to address this problem via a firmware update.
The problem has been documented in several threads:
http://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3591509
http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1347702
http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/52625732
In two of those threads I've posted some results of testing I did measuring the flash output with a light sensor and oscilloscope. I believe those results are fairly conclusive that there is a defect/bug with the 70D.
I'll repost my results from that testing here for anyone interested...
Test setup:
Used tripod in fixed location
Results taken from 70D and Xsi
In all cases, only the body was swapped out. Used same lens/flash between camera bodies
All shots taken in Manual mode, 1/100 shutter, f5.6, iso-800
I did not touch ANY settings during the whole shoot (except for FEC on the 70D on one shot per focal length...see more explanation below)
I enabled an option on my scope to capture at 56Mpts memory depth. With this increased depth, I was able to capture enough data in a single capture to show both the pre-flash and also the real flash and still be able to zoom into each flash event with enough fidelity left to show an accurate measurement.
Attached image explanation:
For the three attached images, there are three rows each.
Top row is 70D, second row is Xsi, third row is 70D...same config but I took multiple shots adjusting the FEC until the flash output was nearly identical to the flash output from the Xsi.
First column is a scope capture showing the pre-flash, followed by the real flash.
Second column is still from the same capture of both flashes in column 1, but zoomed into the pre-flash
Third column is still from the same capture of both flashes in column 1, but zoomed into the 'real' exposing flash
Fourth column is the picture correlating to the scope data captured.
Conclusions so far:
There is almost NO DOUBT a defect/bug with at least some 70D's.
I don't believe there is any timing problems...the under-exposure simply is from the camera telling the flash to output a lower level than it should.
The 50mm data from the 18-135mm vs from the 50mm f1.8 is VERY interesting. With all settings identical and just swapping the lens...exposure between the two lenses should be nearly identical. This right here is one of the reasons I think we can confidently claim that this problem is NOT user error, nor claim the camera is doing what its supposed to and trying to save highlights. The camera is clearly NOT doing what it should be doing when the 18-135mm lens (or other slower max aperture lenses are attached).
The problem is definitely related to max aperture. I really want to test a non-canon slow lens to see if it does the same thing or if its only applicable to canon lenses.
Pre-flash output looks normal for both cameras.
In the first attached image (18-135mm lens @ 135mm), I had to dial in +2-1/3 FEC on the 70D in the third row to match the flash output of the Xsi (resulting in nearly identical exposure).
In the second attached image (18-135mm lens @ 50mm), I had to dial in +2.0 FEC on the 70D in the third row to match the flash output of the Xsi (resulting in nearly identical exposure).
In the third attached image (50mm f1.8 lens @ 50mm), I had to dial in +0.0 FEC on the 70D in the third row to match the flash output of the Xsi (resulting in nearly identical exposure).
Images are fairly large to show all columns/rows/data. I've included links in the summary below so you can download the original size pictures. You probably want to view original size to see all details accurately.
Please let me know if anyone can think of additional testing I can do with a scope to further define the parameters of this defect/bug...
Attached file summary (also links to full resolution pics):
18-135mm lens, @135mm, +2-1/3 FEC needed on 70D in third row to match Xsi
18-135mm lens, @50mm, +2.0 FEC needed on 70D in third row to match Xsi
50mm f1.8 lens, @50mm, +0.0 FEC needed on 70D in third row to match Xsi
Picture #1
Picture #2
Picture #3

Please Help - why are pics not in focus and sharp?

I have a 24-70mm f/2.8L lens and am finding that it is not as sharp as i'd expect. I'm sure it's me and not the lens so hoping someone can help me understand what i'm doing or not doing correctly.
I'm attaching a picture as an example...hand held...here are the settings:
EF24-70mm f/2.8L II USM
59.0mm
1/640 sec;   f/2.8;   ISO 400
Shutter priority;   Spot metering
shot with 70D
when you zoom into the tree it is cleary not in focus/sharp ;(
I've tried at differen shutter speeds but still having the same issue... going to try different apertures next...
Body: Canon 6D, Canon T1i, Canon Elan II,
Glass: Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM, Canon 18-55 kit lens, Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6, Canon 50mm f/1.8,
Flash: Canon Speedlite 430ex ii

next considered a pic with text to really see what's up cropped image to post... this was taken 10feet away from the text - text is on a piece of paper that is 4x4... outside since that is the best light right now - overcast and about an hour before sun set.... shot in M, set the shutter speed an aperture, and use Auto for ISO. I usually only shoot in Tv or Av so maybe this wasn't a good test for how i use it but wanted to see what would happen...
settings:
EF24-70mm f/2.8L II USM
67.0 mm
1/200 sec;   f/2.8;   ISO 250
anual;   Spot metering
center AF
Body: Canon 6D, Canon T1i, Canon Elan II,
Glass: Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM, Canon 18-55 kit lens, Sigma 70-300mm f4-5.6, Canon 50mm f/1.8,
Flash: Canon Speedlite 430ex ii

I am having macbook air recently my iphotos did not open and was showing report apple and reopen but i came to know that by pressing alt and iphotos i open an new photo library and stored the pics but now how can i get the pics which i had in the earlier

i am having macbook air recently my iphotos did not open and was showing report apple and reopen but i came to know that by pressing alt and iphotos i open an new photo library and stored the pics but now how can i get the pics which i had in the earlier photo please help me to recover my photos

Well I'll guess you're using iPhoto 11:
Option 1
Back Up and try rebuild the library: hold down the command and option (or alt) keys while launching iPhoto. Use the resulting dialogue to rebuild. Choose to Repair Database. If that doesn't help, then try again, this time using Rebuild Database.
If that fails:
Option 2
Download iPhoto Library Manager and use its rebuild function. (In early versions of Library Manager it's the File -> Rebuild command. In later versions it's under the Library menu.)
This will create an entirely new library. It will then copy (or try to) your photos and all the associated metadata and versions to this new Library, and arrange it as close as it can to what you had in the damaged Library. It does this based on information it finds in the iPhoto sharing mechanism - but that means that things not shared won't be there, so no slideshows, books or calendars, for instance - but it should get all your events, albums and keywords, faces and places back.
Because this process creates an entirely new library and leaves your old one untouched, it is non-destructive, and if you're not happy with the results you can simply return to your old one.
Regards
TD

Internet Problem - One site will load, another won't. Then mintues later, the site that previously would load won't and the one that wouldn't will. I'm also pulling up a lot of pages in all text. Pics won't load or only one will load and the rest won't...

Several weeks ago, I began to have some very strange internet connection issues. All the lights on my modem stay on and my computer shows full wi-fi signal, but I suddenly I won't be able to load any pages. Other times, I'll be able to load pages from one site, but not another. It's not the same sites all the time though.... sometimes I'll be able to load pages from one site and not another, and then 5 minutes later it'll switch and I'll be able to load pages from the site I previously couldn't and I won't be able to load pages from the site I previously could. A lot of pages are coming up just text with no pics... and then 5 mintues later that site will load normally and another site will come up just text. It does the same thing whether I'm connecting wirelessly or via an ethernet cable. It also doesn't matter which browser I use (I've tried Safari, Chrome, and Firefox). Although, once in a while when using chrome, I get a DNS error page instead of the usual 'cannot find server'. I contacted my service provider and I'm not losing speed or dropping packets. According to them, the problem I'm having is very strange since diagnostic tests show no problems at all. Perhaps someone has run into this before and has a suggestion?

Then if you have tried all the browsers try connecting the system to yoour router with an Ethernet cable and turn WiFi off. If you have the same problem then it more then likely after your computer, Router or modem or connection from your ISP.
If you get good browsing with the Ethernet cable then it is either the WiFi card in your Mac or the WiFi system in your router.

I have one apple ID and multiple family members share this with their devices. How do we keep pics and messages separate?

I have one apple ID and multiple family members share this with their individual devices. How do we keep pics and messages separate for each device?

For messages
MacMost Now 653: Setting Up Multiple iOS Devices For Messages and FaceTime
For other issue:
How to use multiple iPods, iPads, or iPhones with one computer
What is the best way to manage multiple...: Apple Support Communities

I have several pics of my new grandson throughout the year. How do I combine them into one event

I have several pics of my new grandson throughout the year. How do I combine them into one event

You can drag and drop photos from one Event to another. Or you can flag them and use the Events: Add Flagged photos to Select Event.
However, why not use an Album for the job?

Is there a way to create a custom screensaver with pics/slides that display for different amounts of time?

Is there a way to create a custom screensaver with pics/slides that display for different amounts of time? Or even add a "video slide" into the screensaver?
My business has 3 TVs displayed in our lobby, each with its own apple TV and they are all linked to the same photo stream. Currently the Atv screensaver displays the photostream pictures of our products for the default 3 seconds. We just added pics/slides that now display messages and useful info for our customers but I want that info to be displayed for a longer period of time than the pictures to give people a chance to read it.
I tried using flickr and powerpoint as a work around but no luck. I created a slide in powerpoint with play length of 15 secs and saved it as a wmv file. I added that file to a "screensaver" set in flickr and pointed the Atv screensaver to that flickr set. It still displays everything, pics and the wmv file at the default 3 sec.
I know I can increase the duration of all pics in the screensaver to display for longer but the goal is to have the pics display at 3 secs and the info slides to display at 15 secs.

Welcome to the Apple Community.
No that's not possible.
If you have any suggestions that you think might enhance the Apple TV you can send Apple your feedback here

I am making a calendar in iPhoto, picking photos from a folder, let's call it "2011 Pics," in iPhoto. After arranging all the photos and captions I decided I wanted to insert a new photo -- one that was not in "2011 Pics." So I inserted it into the folder

Add new photo to existing calendar folder in iPhoto
I am making a calendar in iPhoto, picking photos from a folder, let's call it "2011 Pics," in iPhoto. After arranging all the photos and captions I decided I wanted to insert a new photo -- one that was not in "2011 Pics." So I inserted it into the folder, but the picture does not show up on the scrolling menu of pictures at the left of the calendar-making page. This happened last year and in frustration I started all over again. But surely there is a way to add a new picture to a calendar that is already laid out.

Yes, the Old Master file has a folder for each year where I find all photos from that specific year. I am attaching a screen shot of the file.
In the meantime i have managed to download all photos (it did not download any video files though in mpg, avi, 3gp, m4v,mp4 and mov format) to a new iphoto library. Unfortunately the photos are quite mixed and often doubled up. I ma considering to purchase iphoto library which checks all duplicates in iphoto. this will save me a lot of time. What do you think?

How do I add pics from my PC to my phone in several folders?

I would like to find a simple tutorial for this function but all the tutorials deal with music and I have ZERO interest in putting music on my phone. I would like to put pictures from my PC on my phone. I have managed to transfer entire folders several times but each time it deletes the previous folder. I would also like to know how to add a single photo to an existing folder once I have created the folder.
There is no need for me to edit because my pics are already edited and the way I wish them to appear.

This tutorial is very straight forward. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4236
Keep in mind you cannot select multiple folders to sync, iTunes will do exactly what you describe.
What you can do is sync one folder and all the contents of that folder will sync. In other words, create a folder with all the pics you want synced, you can seperate them into subfolders and then select that "master" folder as your sync point.

How can I highlight more than one pic at a time?

First of all, THANKS for anyone that may answer since APPLE obviously has no desire to get off their ***** and help their customers.
About ten days ago I was prompted to install apples new operating system. So of course I clicked OK, idiot that I am!
Now I'm stuck with this new piece of **** operating system that I wish I could uninstall.
ANYWAY,
I upload a lot of pix for stuff I sell on EBay, sometimes 3-400 at a time. When I delete photos it's usually 1,000 at a time, and I assure you I'm not exaggerating. Up until now I was able to touch the END pic and swipe the whole horizontal row with two fingertips and the whole row of 7 would get checked. With the new ios7 I am unable to do it anymore (yet ANOTHER reason I don't want this 'improved' OS).
Does ANYONE know of a way to highlight more than one pic at a time?? Remember the old windows system where you could click one pic, then hit SHIFT and click a lower one and it would highlight them all, in between, for a quick delete?
There MUST be a way to delete, or rather highlight (or CHECK) more than one pic at a time? Anyone?
THANKS, Rich

Yes, I know the photos stored on the device... But which app are you accessing the photos with? Which app do you want to be able to highlight more than one pic at a time in?
There are literally thosands of apps that access the iOS Photo Library - which one(s) are you using?

70D pics to lapto

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