845G Max - Chipset cooling?

Has anyone installed a chipset cooler on this board?
I'm thinking about the ThermalTake Tiger 1.
Any input/suggestions?
Thanks,
Patrick

You would need to glue it with thermal epoxy since there are no holes in the board.
Why would you need to do it?
A cheaper and less destructive solution could be to get a cheap 40mm or 50mm fan and screw it on the existing heatsink.

Similar Messages

MSI Z87 MPower Max-Chipset cooler-Passive,Mosfet cooler-Passive : what is that?

MSI Z87 MPower Max
specs are :
Chipset cooler-Passive,
Mosfet cooler-Passive
What does that mean for me as a buyer? is this coin for me?
thank u guys for help.

i found on this link those specs : http://uk.hardware.info/productinfo/186919/msi-z87-mpower-max#tab:specifications
tab : Cooling / Overclocking
Other boards have active cooling, so i dont know what exactly passive means for me. Asking so i dont buy cooler which is not good for board.

Z97 Mpower max ac Chipset Cooling

My Msi Z97 Mpower Max AC MB has intergrated chipset cooling ports that I want to incorporate in to my H240x loop.My tubeing is 3/8 by 5/8 and I was thinking of putting quick dissconect compression fittings on or put a drain valve somewhare down by my R9-290 vid card that has a Komodo R9-LE water block .The drain valve is expecially needed if I use the chipset watercooling on the mpower max ac mb.Anyone have any suggestions or should I just forget about the mb chipset cooling into the loop.

1st thing is that is not the chipset that has the 3/8" barbs for liquid cooling, it's the CPU VRM (Voltage Regulator Module) that you are referring to in your picture. Since they are barb fittings I don't know how you would manage to put compression fittings on it.

MOVED: I have problems with grafick motherboards MSI 845G max when i play games

This topic has been moved to Intel P4 & Celeron P4 based board.
I have problems with grafick motherboards MSI 845G max when i play games

There diff x4 agp and x8 agp.......... nothing!!!!!!!
Check you have INTEL application accelerator installed!!!!!!!
845GE-Max is very fast mainboard, only the single channel mem make's it slower than 865/875 chipset........ fact
Check ALL drivers are COMPAT with system NOT the latest............. Try older drivers
Del

845G MAX L

MSI MOTHERBOARD 845G MAX etc
BIOS 1.4
Keyboard microsoft internet PS2 or/also in USB
With PS2 keyboard and direct pressing sleep button
PC reset itself.
With USB keyboard I get a warning that there is something wrong with the keyboard driver.
This happens only with this MOBO.
Never press the sleep button is an option, but not the right one.
Is it depending from BIOS settings . I tries different one but no solution.
Anyone ideas?

Suspend issues are mostly caused by drivers (chipset drivers and VGA drivers mostly).
Install the intel inf and try changing VGA drivers.

DDR 333mhz on 845G MAX?

I don't know what speed mememory my 845G Max mobo is capable to handle. The manual says it handles the 260 speed, but not 333. The web site said something that it does. I am confused... If someone could tell me what's the top capabilities that would be awesome! Thanks

If using a CPU with 533MHz FSB it can support DDR333 however i is unofficial as intel do not claim DDR333 support for the chipset.

I have problems with grafick motherboards MSI 845G max when i play games

I ask about apology my English not so good but I try toexplains my problem
I bought about year ago this motherboard .:::: MSI 845G Max .::::..
and i have at home this grafick card
asus Geforce fx 5700 li 128mb
The problem is .............
the picture intermixes when i play this games
fifa 2005, need for speed, pro evulation ................ and many from the games decaying with high grafick
I asked many persons and the sa that the motherboard grafick AGP plats is 4x
Hill of the games needs strength follows mother boards with 8x AGP
I uppdated my mother board in this page http://www.msi.com.tw/program/support/bios/bos/spt_bos_detail.php?UID=314&kind=1
to verion 1,6
But the update harbored is to old ::::::::: 2002::::::::::!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Version 1.6 Update date 2002 - 12 - 17
I desire that you lice my problem with kind greeting of grateful with the respect and the estimate

There diff x4 agp and x8 agp.......... nothing!!!!!!!
Check you have INTEL application accelerator installed!!!!!!!
845GE-Max is very fast mainboard, only the single channel mem make's it slower than 865/875 chipset........ fact
Check ALL drivers are COMPAT with system NOT the latest............. Try older drivers
Del

MSI Pro-E Chipset Cooling (Need Some Major Clarification Here Before I Begin)

Hey guys, about to bring up a very well known issue here, which brought about many 'heated' debates, no pun intended :P I know there has been many threads on this issue for nearly 2 years now, and well, i did tons of reading on the subject, starting with this classic thread here: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=126885.0 and various others. I'll try and keep this as short as i can and get right to the point. I know what needs to be done, and the method i will be going with (though i am still debating with some options on the final decision), so i wont even bother going into all of that and save myself and you guys some time here. I am quite certain that HU16E has seen more than enough of these threads, and that every time he sees one, he probably gets a brain ache (sorry man )
But basically, i want to remove the stock heatsink on my X58 Pro-E mobo, and replace BOTH the NB and SB heatsinks. This is something very simple to do, take maybe no more than half hour to get it all removed, put the new TIM on, reseat it, etc, and i am all done. The only problem is having to gut the system and put everything back, which takes even longer to do and is something i am not looking forward to doing, but i am just not comfy with an idle temp of 78c-80c, so i want to take care of all this asap. Yes, i know that is under Intels specs, and yes, it IS working, but i haven't even bothered to play any games on this new system yet, because i know if i was to fire up a power hungry game, that the temps would be well over 90c, and that is just NOT GOOD.
What i want to be sure of, and the main question here, is do any of you know, FOR CERTAIN, which heatsink will fit this mobo without any blood, sweat, tears, tedious modding and cussing up a storm and throwing temper tantrums? Or even worse, getting the heatsink and having it not fit at all? That is something i want to avoid, as it just wastes more time having to send it back, look for another and just creates more hassle. If i do decide to actually hacksaw the heatpipe that links the stock NB/SB together, well at that point, there is no going back, and when i go to put the new heatsinks on and they wind up not fitting, i am basically screwed and wont be able to use the pc for days until finding the right one, so again, i want to avoid all of that.
In that thread i linked to above, he mentions he used that Thermalright NB heatsink, but the problem here, is that he was using the Eclipse mobo, which is not the one i have. I seen some others in that thread saying that they had the PRO-E, but never went into enough detail that they used that same heatsink. It seems like it would fit ok, but 'seems' isn't good enough, and i need to be certain it would. Looking in the system right now, i can lower the gfx card to PCI-E slot 2, to make even more room, so shouldn't be a problem i would think.
But then i came across this thread, and found it quite interesting: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=129044.0
Now this person used that Thermaltake Spirit 2 NB cooler, but it seems Thermaltake yanked that off the market, because the link to newegg in the thread, now shows it OUT OF STOCK/DEACTIVATED. Also if you go here:
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?S=1231&ID=1901 and click the pic of the old Spirit 2, it then leads you here: http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?S=1231&ID=1901 , so they obviously recalled the other one for whatever reason. I am guessing because that one was copper, and this one is aluminum and also smaller and virtually do the same job as the other. This one seems really nice and would definitely be the one i would like to go with, since it has a 40mm fan on it all in one, unlike the Thermalright, which doesn't come with a fan (but can use an 80mn fan as well with the mounting contents it comes with). Based on what i have been reading about this issue, if i reseat everything properly, use AS5 and make sure the fans are blowing properly, this Thermaltake heatsink should have virtually the same effect as the Thermalright would. Of course, this leaves the SB completely exposed, which leads to me part 2 of this person's post. He linked to this NB/SB cooler, which is just about the same size as the stock SB cooler, and he 'claims' it fits just fine:
http://www.xoxide.com/enzotech-cnb-s1l.html
There is also another model by the same company, which has a small fan on it too:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708006
The first one would definitely fit, at least where the gfx card is concerned, albeit, barely. Not sure if the one with the fan would, but then again, based on all that i've read so far, that seems like overkill, since the SB doesn't get hot at all, only lukewarm at this point, and a decent heatsink is all that is really needed. However, i say this person 'claimed' it fit, 'supposedly', because he never posted pics when asked about it, and then disappeared from his own thread shortly after. And what spoiled the whole read for me, was another person posting this:
"The enzotech low profile heatsink will not fit on the south bridge because the hole to hole diameter is too large for it to match up against the mounting holes of the south bridge on the x58 boards.
The Enzotech CNB-S1L has 2 possible hole-hole diameters: 54.6 mm and 59mm. However, the mounting holes on the mobo are only 49mm apart. So the Enzotech heatsink designed for the northbridge will not fit on the south bridge.
If you somehow managed to make it fit, please post pics."
So yea, now i can't be certain that heatsink would fit on the SB, and if this guy was telling the truth, if he did his own modding to force it to fit, or what. Yes, i can hacksaw the pipe off, and leave the stock SB heatsink there, but...i figure if i am going to replace one, i may as well replace the other while i am doing all of that. Like i said, i don't want to have to find out it doesn't upon installing it, because that is just unnecessary time being wasted.
And there you have it, guys. Now, i am no expert at all when it comes a lot of this stuff, as far as certain technical aspects go, but many posters here really know their stuff and from what i have read here and on other forums, i feel like a total noob sometimes lol. So all this boils down to, and what i really need to know, is will all the heatsinks that i have outlined here, fit this motherboard properly? I really need to take care of this asap, because this thing running at 78-80 all the time is really going to lower it's life span, and every second that it does, is just one less second of use. Maybe that is being a lil too dramatic, but still, i've seen so many get their temps down to the low 40s and 50s, so i know for sure this board DOES NOT need to be running that hot :-/
On another note, i noticed many saying they wanted to add nuts/washers or whatever, to give better stability and contact. Well, since as i am as bad as it gets with carpentry, measuring, etc, i have no damn idea which ones i would need. I once was asked to measure something long ago when i worked as a laborer for a carpenter and reported back, saying to him '2/3s'. The guy looked at me like i had two heads lmao. Fortunately, i can read a ruler/measuring tape much better now lol, but i'm still no Norm, from This Old House. I hear all this talk of 'spring mounts', 'push pins' 'mounting holes', 'screws', etc. Since i am unable to see the back of my mobo right now (only the CPU area from the other side of the case panel when removed), i have no idea if its using metal screws, or push pins, or what. I see the heatsinks i mentioned here, as well as many others, use these various methods, so im uncertain what would work on this board (if it needs plastic/nylon screws or metal ones). Now, i checked out this youtube vid of a guy showing how to remove my exact mobo and reseat it with new/better paste. It was quite informative. Just so you guys know, i have the older 'brown colored' Pro-E board. The one in the video looks to be the same color. However, i just purchased this board, along with the whole system less than 3 weeks ago, so i don't know how old this Pro-E may be.
Another important question about what this guy did in the vid too. You can fast-forward to where he takes it apart. Looks to me like they are metal screws, but again, im unsure if mine use those. The front of the heatsinks have two holes, those of which i can easily see, and have what looks to be a plastic washer or something on it. It looks 'greyish'. Now, A VERY IMPORTANT issue in this vid, is this guy removed the THERMAL PADDING on the heatsinks. I read here all over the place, that you are NOT SUPPOSED TO DO THAT, as to ensure that the heatsinks aren't touching any components on the board, the chipset itself. As you can see in the first couple comments, the guy says 'Yes, the existing pads were scraped off. It's important to remove the old thermal pads, otherwise you won't have any benefit & it may even be worse.' So yea. all that does is just confuse me more. Considering how gunked up, though, that the paste will be when removing it, i can only image that the stock pad on there is probably gonna be pretty nasty as well too, which is why he probably took it all off. But yea, wondering if you guys could clarify that for me, if that should be done or not. Seems many here were very firm that it should NEVER be removed.
I can honestly i never have had an issue with MSI until now, and they do put out quality products, but i hope in the future, that newer mobos would use better TIM and have a fan added on the NB or something. Other manufacturers do this, some don't, but they ALL should, so i am not just singling out MSI here. We live in an age where technology is very capricious and always progressing, and back in the day, well, PCs didn't require crazy amounts of fans, watercooling, etc. But with things putting out so much wattage these days, apps/games/movies requiring better hardware, which also needs more power and/or outputs a lot too, well you don't have to work for NASA to know that heat is going to be a problem, and the motherboard being an obvious vital component, should be adequately cooled just as well as everything else that needs it. I do love this board, and it does more than enough to suit my needs, i just wish it didn't run so dang hot That's the ONLY gripe i have about it.

Hey, HU16E, and others,
I just wanted to let you know that i finally broke down and attempted this procedure (after a lot of hesitation), and everything worked out perfectly as you said, WITHOUT having to buy some aftermarket chipset cooler. Maybe it was meant to be for me, because i learned a crap load of things in the process and in the end, it wasn't as hard or grueling as i thought (although 1 process was, which ill get to shortly lol).
Once i finally got everything gutted (well, just the stuff attached to the mobo), i then removed it, and hit a wall, because the screws that hold down the chipset heatsink, wouldnt fit any phillips head screw drivers had, so i had to stop, run out and buy a lil six pack of VERY small philips and flat heads. I had assumed during my extensive research on all of this, that those screws used the 6-32 size, which is pretty much the smallest i could find out there. Many pointed out the RC/Model Airplane hobby shops, but nothing i could find out where i live. Those 4 screws differ from everything else in the case. I thought they would be the M3 type screw (6-32), which on the wiki for pc-screws, had said they were commonly used on most mobos. But anyway, i got those off with the right screwdriver, and that was where the 'grueling' part came in.
The NB heatsink came off after 5 minutes of careful wiggling/rocking/twisting to the left and right. I never once PULLED UPWARD, until it was VERY LOOSE, in fear that i would crack the NB die, because if that happened, well, the mobo would basically have become nothing more than a good coffee cup stand). The SB took about 20 minutes since it was cemented on there pretty good. I had to use a wrench and lock both sides of it on there, and then again, just twisted to the left n right carefully, because my hands/fingers were too big to get a grip on the heatsink it uses. Finally, it came off, and i was good to go, but my goodness.....
...not to sound to harsh here, but man, that original paste it had was just terrible, HU16E. This Pro-E i have is the brownish colored one, and so, it had this pink, bubble gum stuff, that was VERY sticky and hard, and i can now see why these heating issues were taking place. Also, the HS itself wasnt as tight as when i finally put it all back. I used alcohol and qtip swab, and also your toothpick method of scraping from the outside, in, to form a clump, which worked well, but the thinner residue afterward was a real hassle to get off there, both on the HS and the NB die/SB surface. Used a butterknife on the HS, but only soft and non-metallic stuff on the NB die, and just kept wiping with alcohol and a microfiber pad for what felt like an eternity until it just basically dissolved and got that nice mirror finish. I used 4 of the 6-32 washers between the stock screw/spring/washer, and believe it or not, it fit very well. It's not loose, the screws head doesnt go through it at all, and once it was scerwed in nice n tight, there was no play at all, so it worked out really well. I mean, at most while it was loose, was probably just a micro millimeter of space while it was around the screws shaft, but again, once it was in there it was tight as can be. I used Arctic Cooling MX-4, since it one of the best out there and i liked the fact it was non-conductive. From what i have read about pastes, metallic-based compounds just arent necessary in this day and age anymore. Also replace the paste on the CPU cooler too.
So i fired up, and well...checked the bios temps, and there ya have it. Went from 82 degrees, down to 48! That definitely made it all worth it. Now i can finally do some gaming/hd content without having to worry about it going into the 90s. It hasnt even exceeded 60 on load, so all is well for sure Also have an antec spot fan set on medium and aimed right over the NB and added a 200mm fan on the top of case, acting as exhaust, so im sure that all plays a part too.
Honestly, though, i really hope MSI is NOT using that paste anymore, because it really is just....well.....ill just say it's BAD lol. It sure as hell would work awesome for some kind of adhesive or glue that is for sure lmao. Maybe MSI should hold onto to that stuff, and give the glue market some competition lol. But yea, as a thermal compound, umm...i just sure hope they switched to a good type of paste for all their future mobos, especially the z68s. I also don't believe that the NB/SB heatsink ever needed a combo type deal, via the heat pipe, as this just creates more tedium. Heck, i dont even think the SB even needs a HS on it, as it doesn't even give off much heat at all. Mine is barely lukewarm to the touch. Not to mention, when taking it off, the heat pipe tends 'move/bend' a bit, and this means the heatsinks on either side will not match up well, or be perfectly parallel when you seat them back on the board. I had to keep bending it gently and standing it on my table til all 4 pegs on the bottom would touch, this way i would know that it'd reseat properly. I hope in the future that MSI will scrap that whole linked HS set-up.
As i stated before, love the board, and the TIM issue was the only issue i had with it, and now since that is resolved, i have no gripes whatsoever. Down the line, ill probably get a z68 soon, and wouldn't mind at all going with MSI, but id like to be assured first that some changes were made to the chipset cooling, because even though this was all a good learning experience for me, it is not something i want to go through again lol.
But hey, thanks a bunch for all of your advice HU16E and other mods as well. I was going to go with that Thermalright HS, and your posts (past and present) convinced me otherwise and the temps are down to what others got them to WITH that same aftermarket heatsink, so you saved me 30USD

Can't get COM2 to work on 845G MAX

I'm running the 845G MAX with a 2.26 P4 and 512mb RAM on WinXP Pro.
I am unable for get any I/O through COM2. To test the ports, I'm using HyperTerminal over a null modem cable to a laptop. When running this config, I have no problem communicating over COM1. However, when I switch to COM2, I get nothing. Strangely, the software recognizes COM2 as being there and active, but I can't get it to communicate.
I am using a connector that terminates to a DB-9 male and fits perfectly in the COM2 port on the motherboard. In the BIOS, I tried setting the Super I/O setting for Serial Port B to both auto and also forcing COM2. Nothing.
And the strange part to me is that any software I run seems to recognize COM2 as being active, it just cannot communcate over it.
Any ideas?
Wazoo

Quote
Originally posted by wazoo
I'm running the 845G MAX with a 2.26 P4 and 512mb RAM on WinXP Pro.
I am unable for get any I/O through COM2. To test the ports, I'm using HyperTerminal over a null modem cable to a laptop. When running this config, I have no problem communicating over COM1. However, when I switch to COM2, I get nothing. Strangely, the software recognizes COM2 as being there and active, but I can't get it to communicate.
I am using a connector that terminates to a DB-9 male and fits perfectly in the COM2 port on the motherboard. In the BIOS, I tried setting the Super I/O setting for Serial Port B to both auto and also forcing COM2. Nothing.
And the strange part to me is that any software I run seems to recognize COM2 as being active, it just cannot communcate over it.
Any ideas?
Wazoo
Try swapping the pins in the cable (ie. 1 with 2, 3 with 4, 5 with 6, etc). Also, the pinout in the manual is wrong:
Wrong:1 2
3 4
5 6
7 8
9
Right: 1 6
2 7
3 8
4 9
5
Worked for me!
Good luck.
JTN

Cpu and chipset cooling,recommendations?

Trying to figure out what the best HS is for a 3400 on the K8N and chipset cooler. Stock HS running about 35-41 sys temp and 40-51 cpu (Idle/load). sitting at 41 sys and 45cpu right now, weird.... Its all in a coolermaster "stacker?" case. Good airflow (1x120, 2x80 front and 1x80 side intake, 1x120, 3x80 out...) Going to add the "crossblower" fan as soon as I can find it in stock. Had thoughht about the coolermaster hyper 6 but its huge, would have to tie it off to the psu plate or something to keep it from shifting I think
I was looking at the ZALMAN CNPS7000A-AlCu
http://www.newegg.com/app/viewProductDesc.asp?description=35-118-108&catalog=23&manufactory=BROWSE
I like the idea of quiet but summer is coming up and temps rise.... I also was thinking of running a duct from an 80 on the back or side to the HS fan as in intake and I dont think you can do it with the zalman. Any ideas? Not looking for a 92mm tornado setup, have to please the wife...
the chipset cooler gets me, have never bought one. Would like to be able to get one with a fan and plug into the board. Any thoughts on which one will work best?

Check some of the signatures here on the nVidia Athlon64 section of the Forum. That will give you a good idea of the Heatsink/fan combinations that are used!
I think the stock HSF is O.K., and I personally use the Zalman 7000AlCu....but there are other good ones!
P.S. while playing around yesterday....I opened the case up and put an additional fan on the exposed areas and it definitely dropped my temps about 8 deg. I'm thinking of adding a side case fan to help ventilation. I've got the Lian-Li PC-65 black aluminum case.

Which 845G Max-L bios version are you running?

Before I flash my 845G Max-L bios from v1.1 to v1.4, I
thought I'd post a message asking what bios version are the owners of the 845G Max-L board are currently running.
I noticed that v1.4 fixes 'CPU microcode', but I don't believe that Intel would leave it to MSI to update the CPU (P4) microcode! What does v1.4 really fix?

Quote
Originally posted by tywen
Thanks for your replies... I'm going to upgrade my bios to v1.4.....
I've never flashed an AMI bios (only a Phoenix bios on another computer) but I have two questions .....
I'm currently running WinXP Home with 4 partitions
primary, 2nd, 3rd partitions ( C: D: E: ) are formatted as NTFS, but the 4th partition ( F: ) is FAT.
Should I just copy the amifl827.exe and A6580IMS.140
to the FAT formatted F: partition, reboot using Win98 floppy and flash from the F: partition OR should I just copy them to the ramdisk and run from the ramdisk?
Will amifl827 try to access my C: partition and flake out because it is formatted as NTFS or does it just do it's thing from the partition I'm flashing from and ignore all the other partitions?
Copy the bios files onto a floppy disk and flash from there

845G max , VGA drivers slowdown the system

hi, my new machine: C4 1.7G , MSI 845G max, Kingston DDR 256M , Seagate U6 40G. Win2000 Server
Problems:
1. The boot time of win2000 server is too long as more than 1 minute, it is longer than my Celeron 300A system !!! I think it's abnormal.
2. When I have installed win2000 server, then I install the Intel VGA drivers, but after I have finished the VGA drivers installation, the system comes into slow. For example I click right button of the mouse on the desktop, the menu poped out slowly, and when I open a window also slowly.
I have try to upgrade the bios and Intel INF , Intel VGA drivers to last version, but there are no effects.

Did you update win2000 to SP2 or SP3 and update directX8.1?
Preferably the process will be:
-clean install
-SP2/3
-intel inf
-directx8.1b
-VGA drivers

845G Max problem

My system is running fine at default speed. When it's overclocked to 133MHz FSB, it will always crash at the same spot when booting into Windows. That's when I use the Intel built-in graphics card.
When I use the TNT2, it will only boot into Windows in safe mode at 133MHz. And I see a lot of conflicts in the display card properties, i845G something, can't remember.
There's no option to properly disable the built in AGP. And why is it not working at 133MHz, I thought at 133MHz, everything is running at default speed, right?
Here's my system specs:
P4 1.8A
MSI i845G Max
Corsair PC2700 RAM
Creative TNT2 (when I test)
DLink NIC
BTW, the same processor works fine when it's overclocked to 145MHz FSB using MSI 645DX.

My RAM is a PC2700, even if I change the ratio, it is still within the RAM spec.
Intel Extreme is extremely stable at 100MHz FSB as stated earlier. It will crash at the same spot when booting into Windows at 133MHz FSB.
I tested using a TNT2. It won't even boot into Windows at 100MHz FSB. But using safe mode, TNT2 works fine at 133MHz FSB. But when I checked the display properties, there's a lot of conflicts in between the Intel Extreme and TNT2.
Now my question is, why I can't use my TNT2 even at 100MHz? It was working fine using another MSI 845G Max before I sent for RMA.
Why Intel Extreme doesn't work at 133MHz FSB? I've tried all the memory timings, ratio FYI. It has nothing to do with RAM timings I'm afraid. I tested the same RAM on my KT3. 166MHz at agressive timings run perfectly well.

845G Max L (MS-6580G) Bios 1.40 Issue

I ran MSI's Live Update 2 and downloaded bios 1.40 for my 845G Max L (MS-6580G).
When I went to run it I got a strange warning and it tried to locate some sort of DOS files.. what is up with this? Is this a beta bios? Is this a mistake?
If not, what is it trying to do? I chose to ignore the error and it did flash my machine, but I am unsure of what it might have missed.
Please Help!
Thanks

Here is the autoexec.bat:
@echo off
echo Welcome to FreeDOS (http://www.freedos.org)!
cls
echo MSI BIOS Flash and Rescue Disk
echo ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
echo !!!WARNING!!!
echo If you don't know what you are doing, remove the disk and reset your computer.
echo Make sure your system is stable before you try this.
echo This flashing procedure is created by Bas and Assaf's instructions to make it
echo as safe as possible, but remember it will leave you with a dead board if it
echo fails.
echo So be very sure you want to continue!!!!
echo -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
pause
If exist C:\PROGRA~1\SETUPF~1\MS6380~1\AMIFLH.EXE If exist C:\PROGRA~1\SETUPF~1\MS6380~1\A6380VMS.550 goto HDFLASH
set RAMDRIVE=?:
A:\TDSK 2048 /E
if errorlevel 255 goto no_ramdrive
if errorlevel 254 goto no_ramdrive
if errorlevel 253 goto no_ramdrive
if errorlevel 252 goto no_ramdrive
cls
echo Create RAMDRIVE (%RAMDRIVE%)
echo.
echo Copy BIOS ROM and Flash Utility to RAMDRIVE...
copy A:\AMIBOOT.ROM %RAMDRIVE%\AMIBOOT.ROM
copy A:\AMIFLH.EXE %RAMDRIVE%\AMIFLH.EXE
If exist %RAMDRIVE%\AMIFLH.EXE If exist %RAMDRIVE%\AMIBOOT.ROM goto RDFLASH
cls
echo !!!ERROR DURING FILE COPY!!!
echo The files needed to flash the bios could not be loaded into the RAMDRIVE
echo and the flash can not proceed.
echo Please run the flash disk creator program again using another floppy disk
echo since it appears this disk is damaged.
goto end
rem FLASH PROCESS
:RDFLASH
cls
echo SUCCESSFULLY copied files: AMIFLH.EXE (Flash Utility)
echo and AMIBOOT.ROM (BIOS ROM) to the RAMDRIVE!
echo System is ready to flash the following BIOS.
echo.
echo BIOS Model: MS-6380
echo BIOS Version: 5.50
echo.
echo Do you want to start the flash process now? (y/n)
choice /c:yn /n > nul
if errorlevel 2 goto no
%RAMDRIVE%
AMIFLH.EXE AMIBOOT.ROM /A
goto end
:HDFLASH
cls
echo System is ready to flash the following BIOS.
echo.
echo BIOS Model: MS-6380
echo BIOS Version: 5.50
echo.
echo Do you want to start the flash process now? (y/n)
choice /c:yn /n > nul
if errorlevel 2 goto no
C:\PROGRA~1\SETUPF~1\MS6380~1\AMIFLH.EXE C:\PROGRA~1\SETUPF~1\MS6380~1\A6380VMS.550 /A
goto end
:no_ramdrive
cls
echo !!!ERROR DURING RAMDISK CRTEATE!!!
echo The MSI BIOS Flash and Rescue disk could not create a temporary drive for
echo the flash utility and BIOS. This may be because this computer has less than
echo the minimum required extended memory.
goto end
:no
cls
echo Please remove the MSI BIOS Flash and Rescue disk.
:end
The only place the word "dos" apears is in :
Quote
echo Welcome to FreeDOS (http://www.freedos.org)!
Unless while downloading the bios you chose to save it to c:\dos rather than the default program files\.....
But even then the scrips checks the files's existance befor actually attempting to flash from the HDD, if it fails to find them it will go on to flash from RAMDRIVE.

Chipset cooling

Has anyone found a good chipset cooler for the K7N2 Delta L? I have found a few that look pretty good but dont know about compatibility. I like the swiftech and the thermalright models but dont know if they will fit on the mobo. Thanks.

I'm with Deathstalker Iceburg is great i use it in all my PC's an Vantec has never let me down

845G Max - Chipset cooling?

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