870A-G54 Problems

Ok so i mounted the board, connected everything started running from the cd etc.. the cd drive and winki operating screen worked just fine for a while.
I went out and purchased a new hard drive and windows 7 because i couldn't validate my old version of xp. so the time comes to install windows, i boot up the system, open the cd drive and then i have second thoughts about which disc i needed to use 32b or 64b, so i go look it up for a few minutes on a laptop in another room. Finally when i come back the disc drive has closed itself and wont open again, the screen said to insert disc and then restart to load from cd drive. i power off, turn it back on and my disc drive wont power on and i cant get any visuals.
I dont think it can be my drive or my psu because when i disconnect my cd drive from the MB it turns on just fine, but when i connect them it just shuts down.
Any help you can give would be MUCH appreciated!
IF its any help i have a corsair psu and a phenom processor

MSI 870A-G54 AM3 AMD 870 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard
CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 Power Supply
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL
Western Digital 320g, 7200 rpm, 3.0 gps
ZOTAC Synergy Edition ZT-20303-10L GeForce 210 1GB 128-bit DDR2 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card. NVIDIA
- Soon to be Windows 7 64b
AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition Deneb 3.2GHz 4 x 512KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache Socket AM3 125W Quad-Core Processor

Similar Messages

  • 870A-G54 problems with bios, ram and CnQ

    Hello i have some weird problems with my mobo.  CnQ dont work i dont know why , in bios all options are turned not automaticly but forced to be "enable" ,and still my procesor multipler and voltages don't change , at the beginning after installing win7 64x it worked but now no :/.
    2.next i have problems with memory i have corsair xms3 2x2gb [email protected]  at old bios(AH0) my memory just did'nt want to work on 1.6k in dual channel and 1,2 slot i tried even to use default voltages tested by corsair (1.65V i had to use 1.66) result it dont work. after putting them into 3,4 slot it works even on 1.5V not 1.65V then i used to have them on 3,4 slot      do u think that 1,2 slot is damaged ?.
    3.Problems by bios. I updated my bios to the lastest version (from software downloaded from msi.com  probably it had name "live update 5") , of course updated by usb stick .Then after update i see that my ram looks like reserved bios showing me that i have 2gigs of ram -.- (but only on 3,4 slot x.x) after change slots (1,2) it working and see my full ram (4gigs). Is that HD0 beta version of bios ? it looks like that .I don't see my logo screen it looks like that option was cut off from the bios , i don't see any "corporation" logo while booting the system.
    I though that msi making solid motherboards as u can see i have many problems with this mobo.
    Help me and thanks for all post (which wanna help me :D)

    CPU brand, AMD PHENOM II X4 955BE C3
    Motherboard model  870A-G54 REV 3.0  
    Memory Corsair xms3 2x2gb cl9 1.6kMHz
    Nvidia Geforce gts450 oc1 1gb gddr5 gf106
    Hard drive(s) samsung 250gb sata 2 80mb/sec
    Windows 7 home premium 64bit
    Delta dps-700MB A  700W           (12v1 17A0  (12v2 18A) (12v3 17A)  (12v4 17A) (+5v 25A) max for 12V= 50A (+3.3 20A)  (-12 0.6A)  +5V and +3.3 max 160W  MAX output 700W

  • MSI 870A-G54 problem with RAM frequency

    Hello,
    Im currently using MSI 870A-G54 motherboard with Phenom x2 560. I started upgrading my hardware (with baby steps) and started with RAMs.
    Bought 2x4GB 1600 MHz Goodrams and after plugging it in I got some random freezes and shutdowns. I recently...

    Hello. I just installed it but the main screen of the program it's absolutly black, here you can see an screenshot
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  • MSI 870a-G54 Hard drive problem.

    About a week ago i reinstalled Windows because it started to slow down (virusses and what not) And as soon as i reinstalled everything (programs games etc etc) One of my harddrives used for games did not show up at the bios and at My computer.
    So this entire week i've been trying to get it to work again and i've narrowed down the problem today to the BIOS and/or motherboard not giving the power to the HDD in order for it to start and be recognized in BIOS and Windows.
    What ive done to come to this conclusion:
    - Reinstalled Windows twice,
    - Replaced CMOS Battery,
    - Flashed the BIOS to every BIOS setting the MSI website had to offer. None worked for the HDD to get powered up again.
    - Moved CMOS jumper,
    - Changed SATA and powercables on harddrive,
    - Tried the HDD on another test PC i had and reformatted it there as well,
    - Only hooked up the not working HDD to the PC, (HDD did not spin up, and came to the conclusion at this point that motherboard or BIOS is the culprit)
    - Unplugged the powercable to the not working HDD and plugged it back in when the PC was running and i could feel it spinning up, after this i restarted the PC so that the HDD would still get power and it was recognized by the BIOS and Windows and i could use it. As soon as i shut down the PC entirely and restarted it the HDD would not spin up. And i had to unplug power to the HDD and plug it in again and restart PC for it to work properly.
    - Checked for bad sectors nothing found,
    Everything else is working perfectly. Except that one HDD not getting the power when booting up the PC.
    The HDD in question is the "Samsung HD502HJ 500gig" used for Steam games.
    PC Specs:
    CPU: AMD Phenom II x4 955 Black edition. Put on a new CPU cooler last summer (Cooler master Hyper 212 Plus)
    Mobo: MSI 870a-G54
    PSU: Antec EarthWatts EA650 (650 Watts)
    Graphics card: Powercolor PCS+ HD5870 Put on a custom cooler last summer (Arctic Cooling Accelero Xtreme 5870)
    RAM: Kingston ValueRam 1333Mhz DDR3 (8gigs 4x 2gig) Bought 4 gigs extra last summer
    HDD1: Seagate ST3160812 AS 160gig used for Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit (Works perfectly)
    HDD2: Samsung HD204UI 2TB used for Storage / Other games than i have on Steam. (works perfectly) Bought last summer with the cooling/system upgrade
    HDD3: Samsung HD502HJ 500gig used for Steam games. (Does not work anymore after reinstal) Bought 2 years ago along with the rest of the PC
    I am completely at a loss here as to what the problem is. I do not have the funds to buy a new piece of hardware at this time (i think the entire week of struggle would back that up for me lol...). And ive basically tried everything what i know and what i've found through Google and friends. Might have been better going straight to MSI forum and post my problem here but narrowing it down to this not only helps me but the person that is going to post below in this thread as well lol.
    Thanks in advance and i hope to hear from anyone soon.

    Quote from: Bas on 09-March-12, 19:16:21
    Try drive in different PC, as it looks like it died.
    HDD's always spinup as soon as power is applied, ergo I think the drive died.
    Ive tried it already in 2 different PC's and i have to apologize here for not mentioning that earlier in the topic.
    The drive spins up perfectly in both of those PC's and ive checked for bad sectors on both of those PC's as well and it showed that the drive was 100% healthy on both PC's
    The drive was working perfectly fine before the reinstallation of windows. Thats why i dont think the drive has died. Because it would be weird that the drive just suddenly gave up right when im reinstalling windows..
    It also doesnt add up when i plug the powercable back into the drive while the PC is running and it spins up then and works perfectly until PC is shut down. Thats why i had it narrowed down to the BIOS and/or Motherboard being the culprit.
    My best guess is that its software related because the PC does boot up so its not a hardware problem.
    P.S.
    A friend of mine said that it could be a powersaving issue. But ive looked into the BIOS and i could not find anything about it.

  • Audio problem with 870A-G54

    Dear all...
    I bought MSI 870A-G54 and when I installed it audio card driver it was an error sign occurred
    Both my rear and front audio jack can't supply sound until now
    When I check in my device manager there is 1 device that is not recognize by the system
    I already update it with my MSI CD driver but the device cannot find it's driver
    The unrecognized device called "Media"
    Please help me to solve with this problem
    thank you

    >>Posting Guide<<

  • 870A-G54 rebranded as 870S-G54?

    I was poking around inside my computer and noticed that printed on the motherboard was USB 3.0 even though my 870S was not spec'd as having any of them. Then I looked at where my board was branded as 870S to find a sticker over it. Out of curiosity I peeled back the sticker and sure enough underneath was stamped 870A. Can anybody explain this to me please? I have sent a message to CS but have not received anything in return. Thanks!

    870A- and 870S-G54 are the same boards apart from the USB3.0 chip on 870A. It's the same board layout, cooling and chipset. As 870S-G54 is a stripped-down 870A-G54 as far as USB3.0 goes it uses of course the same board. Without the USB3.0 it's a 870S. Can't see the problem as it is quite normal.   

  • 870A-g54 front panel audio missing from bios

    Boy is this motherboard full of glitches. Teaches me a lesson about buying the cheapest for crossfire.
    I would really love to use my front panel audio. Only problem is my front panel audio isn't in the BIOS!
    When i bought my 870A-G54 I had to do a BIOS flash to support my six core CPU. Could the BIOS flash have changed my BIOS menu and taken away the front panel audio setting?
    Lol does the motherboard even have an option to turn front panel audio on and off?
    I had the bios flashed in the store the moment i baught it so i dont know how the bios looked before the flash. The Guy failed to flash my board because he had the wrong bios update and it was too big. So i had to download the right one from msi myself. People like that shouldn't work in computer stores.
    My front panel audio has one of those single plug and go audio cables so im shure i couldn't install it wrong, even had the manual next to me.
    Am i to be stuck without front panel audio??

    Quote from: Stu on 20-October-11, 03:51:31
    BIOS does not have any options for front panel audio, it is controlled by the Realtek Audio Manager control panel.
    What's the exact problem you're having?
    Well i plug in my headphones to front audio and the software should recognize it and light up the ports on screen. But they stay greyed out and i have no mic or audio.
    On my old asus motherboard i had to make shure front panel audio is turned on sorry for the confusion.
    any idea why it doesn't pick up my headphones?
    Ive tried diffrent headphones lol they dont work either

  • Another 870A-G54 not posting

    Well, here I am, yet another person with his newly acquired 870A-G54 MB not posting.  This is actually my second MB of this series.  The first one I RMA'd after it shorted in my case due to a rogue standoff hidden beneath the board; a stupid mistake on my part, but one which I thought I had corrected with this board. I removed all of my standoffs and then put one back for each hole in the MB. 
    Now the current problem. I put everything together and turned on the board for the first time.  The fans spun up, the HDD light came on, and the 4 CPU power phase LEDs turned on. However, neither my mouse nor my keyboard received power, and my monitor remained in standby mode. 
    All of the parts listed in my signature are newly purchased.  They are the hardware that I am using with this MB.  According to the MSI compatibility test results, the ADATA sticks, the 8500GT, and the Phenom II are all compatible. This specific Antec Earthwatts was not tested, but a higher wattage one was, and that was compatible as well. 
    I know my first step is to perform a bench test with only 1 stick of RAM, the VGA, and my keyboard.  That test failed, so now I have some questions that you guys can hopefully answer for me. 
    First: What do the power phase LEDs actually mean? I am trying to figure out if it is good or bad that all four come on and stay on, but the manual doesn't give any description beyond the fact that each LED represents a power phase mode, 1-4. I haven't found anything online that explains this to me. What are power phase modes? What does it mean if all four lights are on?
    Second: Could any of my other hardware have been damaged by the first MB shorting out? I know that the VGA and PSU work fine because when I RMA'd the first time, I put my old rig together, but used these new parts in place of my old VGA and PSU.  I am wondering specifically if the RAM or CPU could have been scrambled. Just to note, there was no physical sign/damage when the first MB shorted; no smoke, spark, or smell, and there are no signs of physical damage (bent pins, scratches, or cracks) on either the CPU or RAM.
    Third: Could this be related to my power supply? Despite the hardware itself being new, the model is old, but it has all of the proper power connectors for this board.  Here is a list of the voltage rails and the amps
    +3.3 V, 25A
    +5 V, 25A
    +12V1, 22A
    +12V2, 22A
    +12V3, 25A
    -12V, .5A
    Does this power supply not provide enough power to the CPU?
    Fourth: Compatibility tests aside, is it possible that the MB doesn't like the Nvidia card? Like I said above, I know that the VGA card works, but MSI seems to favor ATI cards.  I have a really old ATI Radeon card that I test with the board, if you think that would reveal anything. 
    Finally: What besides standoffs making contact with the board could cause a MB to short inside a case?

        
    No Post - Shorting issues
         Motherboard Grounding to case causing No Post
    Test the motherboard outside of the case to verify that the motherboard is not shorting to the case and causing a problem
         •    With only the CPU and heat sink, memory, and video card (or onboard video) connected to the motherboard, place the motherboard on a non-conductive surface and retest the motherboard
         •    Check the case mounting standoffs to verify that they are lining up correctly with the mounting holes on the motherboard.
    Also try with barabone setup [when testing with mainboard out of PC case], and 1 memory stick only in 1st dimm close to cpu socket.
    Quote
    PSU: Antec EarthWatts EA650 650W
    The PSU too possible to have malfunction, Antec fails a lot.

  • 870A-G54 Realtek LAN crash when using Torrents

    The network card on my MSI 870A-G54 crashes when downloading or uploading using torrents. It takes around 20-30min until I lose network connection and I have to reset the network card to make it work again.
    I have tried all the official MSI driver, Windows Update driver and a driver downloaded directly from realtek but the problem remains. I'm using Windows 7 x64 and I have the latest BIOS version (updated today).

    Quote from: veckans on 11-February-11, 01:50:27
    It is not the clocks, I have ran this CPU for a year at these clocks unlocked. It's a solid clock.
    I cannot reproduce the error with or without clocks at the moment, don't know why.
    Maybe ,maybe you simply got flooded or something.Are you using a decent firewall to protect you ?!At least such firewall protects your hardware even if the connectivity still goes down.
    P2P is a "dangerous" thingy in many aspects.Make sure you use up to date clients.
    The CPU can go bad even if it worked one year too.That silicon had one core disabled due to an objective factor.

  • 870A-G54 - Possible overheating caused by too much ram? Display driver crashes

    Greetings, I have a 870A-G54. I've had multiple issues with several video cards prompting me with a "display driver has stopped responding and has recovered" error. Each video card having it's own unique fix. I've come to the conclusion that it's another piece of hardware in my system that is the root of the problem; and not the video cards. I've noticed that the CPU during "the crash" hits about 60c; usually when playing video games. After a reboot, I can play games for a couple more hours before getting the error again. I'm running 16gb of ram on Windows 7 ultimate. Yesterday I decided to remove 8gb of ram to see if the CPU got "hot" again (only leaving the sticks in bay 3 and 4 in). I had a 4 hour session of gaming and it didn't crash. Note, I have the latest bios installed and a Power Supply that shouldn't have issues powering the whole thing; 850w gold rated PSU. I'm currently running a 6950 video card, and all of the settings are stock; no over clocking in any way. I have a hardware monitor installed that shows with my 16gb of ram that my cpu idles at 41-43c. During a intense gaming session going up to 60c. Yesterday after removing the other 8gb (two sticks of 4gb), it never went above 50c. My CPU is well ventilated. I've contemplated water cooling the CPU if that would resolve the issue. But I'd hate to fork over more money to an already expensive system if I don't have to. I've also wondered if it's just a bad ram stick, or bad ram bay on the motherboard. :\
    Any suggestions here would be appreciated! Thanks!

    So, I conducted several tests over the last couple of days. Now, I understand that mismatching ram could (and probably is) potentially causing the overheat problem. But... I kind of started looking at fundamentals. I have to sets for DDR3. One pair is Patriot sector 5 ram, the other is a set of Dominator ram. Now, I've noticed that I've seem to always have this driver crash issue. But I had always thought it was the video card. Only until recently I started seeing/noticing that the cpu was getting very hot when the driver would crash. On Wednesday I removed the ram in slots 1 and 2 (the Dominator ram), and only ran with the ram in 3 and 4 (Patriot). It ran fine all night. I then ran some heat tests, with the same ram in bays 1 and 2. When the Patriot ram was in those two slots, it ran cooler. When the Dominator was in, it ran hotter. The Dominator's builtin heat-sinks pretty much rest right next the CPU's heatsink (and restrict air flow). It re-arranged the ram so the Dominators are in 3 and 4. And the Sector 5 are in 1 and 2. It worked all night yesterday, CPU didn't get any hotter that 48c while having multiple programs running. Looking at it now, the design of this MB is pretty bad, there should be a little more space between the CPU and the ram. In any case, I will follow up if it continues to crash due to heating issues. I know it's probably cheaper to get new ram, but I'm playing with the idea of just getting a better heat-sink for the CPU (WATER COOLED)!

  • Ram issue 870A-G54

    After flashing latest bios for AM3+ system see only 2gb ram but I have installed 2x2 Mushkin silverline.CPu-Z shows me two stick ram and their timings but bios and win7  see only 2gb.What is the problem any idea?In previus bios everything was fine.
    My system:
    -Windows 7 64bit Ultimate
    -CPU Phenom IIx4 955 BE
    -MSI 870A-G54
    -2x2 Mushkin Silverline
    -Seagate 7.12 500GB
    -Spinpoint 1Tb F3
    -Asus 4850 512ram
    -DVD-RW Pioneer
    -Corsair 550V

    Quote from: hakunamatata on 04-July-11, 02:45:46
    I checked from the MSI usb tool bootable software report in a notepad..
    I'm using Corsair gaming series ddr3 1333mhz ram and when i use CPUID it shows 667mhz (max bandwidth) at SPD now. Is it normal?
    Quote from: hakunamatata on 04-July-11, 02:45:46
    I checked from the MSI usb tool bootable software report in a notepad..
    This is after the flash or? Can you paste all info from report?
    Quote from: hakunamatata on 04-July-11, 02:45:46
    I'm using Corsair gaming series ddr3 1333mhz ram and when i use CPUID it shows 667mhz (max bandwidth) at SPD now. Is it normal?
    Yes its normal, 667MHz mean DDR1333 its double date rate

  • Yet another 870A-G54 not posting

    Recently purchased an MSI 870A-G54.
    Installed an X6 1055T 95W AMD Phenom II X6 processor and 2 PSD38G1333KH Patriot DDR3-1333 4GB memory sticks. All using a WIN+ Power 700 W power supply purchased at the same time.
    I have tested the machine on a piece of cardboard with just the above components connected together (and an nVidia 8600 GT 256Mb PCI-e video card)
    The system will not post or beep. The power LED's are all lit as well as the FSB control knob and the CPU fan does turn on. However, there is no video. As in, the monitor never wakes from suspend.
    I tested it with both a DVD-Rom and an HDD and the only thing different is that the DVD-Rom will seek, wait a second, then seek again. The same with the HDD.
    I have tried testing the system with 3 different video cards, all with the same result. There is no smell of burnt components, and nothing looks burned or broken.
    I removed the CMOS battery for 10 minutes and placed it back into the machine with no change as well.
    I have tried moving the memory sticks to different positions, or even just 1 memory stick. I also tried with a different brand of memory with no change. When the memory is removed, there are 3 long beeps, if it helps.
    Do I have a bad board or is something else wrong? If the board is bad, did it also destroy the new CPU and/or memory and/or video card(s).
    Specs once again:
    MSI 870A-G54 motherboard
    unknown BIOS version as it will not post.
    X6 1055T 95W AMD Phenom II X6 processor
    PSD38G1333KH Patriot DDR3-1333 4GB memory stick x2
    nVidia GeForce 8600GT
    WIN+ POWER 700W HEC-700TE-2WX amp ratings for the +3.3V, +5V and +12V are 24A, 20A, 30A
    No HDD or anything else connected at the moment.

    The little green sticker says:
    A7599
    AMSH70
    Exactly like that.
    Also, I plugged in the two plugs that are on the board and in the instruction manual. First, JPWR1, the massive plug with many little plugs on it all in a row. Second, JPWR2, with its little double row making 8 plugs total. I don't see any other plugs on it and the instruction booklet didn't say to plug in anything else, power-wise.
    And, as I stated in the first post, I tested the machine with 3 different video cards all with the same results.
    As for an alternate power supply, I tried my old TAO Enterprise 470W that was in my old computer. No change.
    Also, from reading other posts on this forum, I feel I need to state a few obvious things that I have done to skip those steps and to give you more info.
    First, I did clear the CMOS by removing the jumper and battery for a length of time.
    Second, I checked the bottom and top of the board looking for damaged components. None were found. It looks the same as it does on the MSI website.
    Third, I checked the memory in all possible positions with both one and two sticks of the new memory and with the off-brand memory.
    Fourth, from reading the forum posts here, the moderators are big on the copy/paste post saying to remove it from the case and place it on a non-conductive surface and bare-bones check it. That is where is has been since the beginning. It has never been inside of a case. So a post saying to take it out of the case and put it on a piece of cardboard is not needed.
    Fifth, aside from the video card, everything else that is plugged into this system now, the CPU, memory and power supply, is brand new. So if it could possibly be the culprit of one of these other items (none of which I can check) then they need to be replaced instead of the motherboard.
    Sixth, while I am not a professional, this is not my first build. I have never had this kind of problem before.
    Seventh, it will not be as easy for me to send these parts back in, as I currently live in Japan and bought these components off of Amazon Japan. So if there is anything you can think of for me to try that may work, please let me know.

  • 870A-G54 V3.1 instant FF on POST, all board LEDs and fans on.

    Trying to get  a 870A-G54 V3.1 working. I get instant FF on a PCI POST card, all the blue LEDs and fans are on, so is the red LED on the overclock button. I have 16 gig of new Patriot DDR3 plugged in and an AMD Phenom 2 X2 555 CPU I know is good because I pulled it off an AM2+ box it's been running in for a while.
    The board is a used freebie, condition unknown due to the giver not having an AM3 CPU to test it.
    I have no other AM3 CPU or any other DDR3 RAM to try. Is there any way to make it load the latest BIOS off a USB stick? Or am I going to have to dig up some old single core Sempron just to flash the latest BIOS? I've run into this problem many times over the years, pretty much since the first PC boards with flash BIOS.
    Or could it be that a 330W supply just isn't enough, even with a piddly little low profile nVidia GT520?
    Would be nice to know if the board's just defekt or if it's something fixable. In some searching on this, I've found this same instant FF issue with this exact model MSI board quite a lot.
    Right now this board is shoved to the back burner, I ordered a surplus/new OEM board from a different manufacturer, and will also get a nice 80% efficient 500W supply. I've a system to get built and fiddling with a problem board isn't getting it done.

    Quote from: badboy2k on 13-March-14, 22:55:48
    1: what is the boards serial number (leave off the last 3 digits)? (should be on the rear of the board so I can give you an idea of what BIOS version it has)
    Only number is by the CPU socket, B316023***
    Quote
    2: what 330W PSU? (if its a split +12v Rail unit then that could very well be the problem as it will be anaemic to say the least and barely passable)
    Ultra ULT-350P label says (+5V 25A +3.3V 18A 150W), (+12V 18A 216W), (-5V 0.6A 7.2W), (-12V 0.6A 7.2W), (+5VSB 2A 10W)
    Quote
    3: also was the 8pin EPS CPU power Header plugged in?
    4 pin plus the other 4 pins connected to two separate drive power wire bundles with a dual molex adapter.
    Quote
    4: what sticks are those DDR3 units eg: 4x4GB??? and what speed are they rated at?
    Patriot PS000562 4GB PC3-10600 1333Mhz. Hmmm, the label lies! Fine print says (2X2GB)Kit. 8 gig will be enough. Got them in an online auction lot from a computer tech school that closed. They're from 2 different batches, T-0009264 and T-0009267. Solder mask is a slightly different shade of green and the PCB material is different color too. Trace layout and chips are the same.
    I have an Antec "earthpower" 500W supply ordered. It has an 8 pin connector.

  • 870a-g54 non fx

    Hello!. I've got problem and i don't know what's the reason of that. Today i entered msi and choosed my 870a-g54 , then i saw there is new bios update 17.H . so i put this into pendrive and went to the bios ,but it doesn't recognize this bios update. I copied other bios and it recognize it properly. Why 17.H doesn't work ?. I tried to install new bios with the installer in package, as always ... it doesn't work coz i have 64bit version and it won't start.

    Quote from: plmnb on 05-April-12, 21:33:51
    ... when i changed to xmp timmings then 2gigs were seen in bios.
     XMP timings are for use in Intel systems, not AMD.

  • 870A-G54 - power management issues

    A power-management issue with standby. I've set standby to be "S3" in the BIOS - the system goes into standby fine and wakes up fine.
    The problem is, if the system is in standby for a few hours, at some point during that time, it turns itself off fully. As in, powered-down-pressing-the-power-button-causes-the-system-to-boot-from-scratch "fully off". This has happened three times so far (every time I've left the system on standby for a long period). This happens whether the BIOS "EuP 2013" setting is enabled or disabled.
    The duration of time is less than 4hrs, though I don't know what the cutoff is exactly.
    No power-cuts. ;-)
    Any suggestions? I don't know much about ACPI (had to look up what to set the "standby" to in the first place).
    MSI 870A-G54
    Athlon II x3 450
    Powercool 1gb AMD 5670 gfx
    2*2gb RAM
    Antec Earthwatts 380 Green PSU
    500GB Samsung HDD
    Windows XP SP3 32 bit
    NOT over/underclocked in any way.

    Right, I've been conducting some experiments to try and narrow this down.
    With the New powersupply (the Antec 380 Earthwatts):
    - S1 standby works fine.
    - S3 standby works for 12-13 minutes. After that the blinking-power-led stops blinking. If at this point I press the power-button, the computer does NOT turn on. It remains completely unresponsive. I have to wait about 2 more minutes before the power button starts responding, at which point I am booting from scratch (BIOS).
    With the Old powersupply, a non-brand (It says "COLORSit") 400w affair that's known-good.
    - S1 standby works fine.
    - S3 standby does not work at all. The system is powered-off but actually turns off fully rather than into standby. No flashing power-LED. Pressing the power button results in booting from scratch (BIOS).
    This old-powersupply was tested with the EuP 2013 both enabled and disabled.
    For both experiments the dvd-drive was disconnected, so we can rule that out too (though it was never really a contender. :-) )
    Given this, I'm inclined to rule out the powersupply as a cause - this is a years-old power-supply that I've never had a problem with.
    Anyone have any thoughts? I'm leaning towards motherboard, but standby isn't something I know much about, so I defer to the board for suggestions.

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