8800 GT availability - Non Apple brand?

Hi, I bought a Jan08 8 core last month. I wanted to get the 512 mb Nvidia card, but I was told it wouldn't be available for 6-8 weeks. Since I needed the box for a specific job and couldn't wait, I went ahead and bought it with the stock ATI card.
I've seen a few posts from folks who say they have already gotten this card. How did you get them? The apple store is still showing 5 weeks, and mac mall is quoting the 29th of Feb for delivery to them.
Also, is it possible to buy a 8800gt card from the PC world and use it in the macpro. After reading the spec's the cards appear identical, and the PC version is 100 bux less!!!
http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=206609495&SearchEngine=ya&SearchTerm=2 06609495&Type=PI&Category=Comp&dcaid=17194
thanks!

thanks Hatter, sorry I didn't say "thanks" sooner. I guess I forgot to turn on notifications, and I didn't get a message when you responded.
That makes sense, a great example of the "closed loop" I guess. I totally understand that Apple would like to maintain control of the insides of their box, but they are SEVERELY limiting both performance and options by doing so. they need to change the name of the product line from "macpro" to "mactower" or something to reflect the lack of "professional" options. One video card that isn't readily available and STILL has crappy OpenGL performance compared to it's PC counterparts is not what I would call "professional"
I'm sure I'm not the first to say it, but there it is. Sorry for the rant, I'm just frustrated...
thanks again for the barefeats link!

Similar Messages

Should I get a non-Apple Brand Nano Charger?

I am going on vacation in a few weeks and want to take my Nano with me. I won't be taking a laptop so I need to buy a charger.
I found this one http://www.emtcompany.com/products/tcipodw.htm for $6.95 with free shipping. Am I taking a chance with this one or am I better off purchasing an Apple-branded charger for $29.95?
I like the fact that this one doesn't need my sync cable as it has one built in.
Opinions?
Nano 4Gb Windows XP Pro

I have seen other posts about this and they mention using your existing cable and a powered USB hub. These are usually very cheap from your local computer/electronics store. The thing to check is the size of the hub's power pack versus the special Nano charger you've seen.

Replacement iBook G3 battery not recognised - non Apple brand

Hi World
Try this conundrum for size...
I bought 'new' (non-Apple) battery on Ebay and my iBook does not appear to recognise it. i.e amber charge light does not illuminate - it stays green. I've done a PMU reset, Battery Rest 2.0, Restarted the iBook etc etc - nothing seems to work. The only reason I want a new battery is to avoid resetting the date every time I restart the iBook - I never travel with it and it's always powered from the mains electricity.
For information - the original (dead) Apple battery happily illuminates amber - but obviously can not store a charge.
I have also received a replacement for the intial new battery and it is still showing the same response i.e. no amber glow
Is there a printed circuit in these batteries that is needed to say 'hello' in an exact way and therefore allow charging to occur? If so, if I were to extract the new cells from my new battery and somehow wire them into the old Apple case, would that work? (I have read about spot soldering and it sounds a bit daunting)
Any answers gratefully appreciated
Any answers

FIRST: You wrote "Is there a printed circuit in these batteries that is needed to say 'hello' in an exact way and therefore allow charging to occur? If so, if I were to extract the new cells from my new battery and somehow wire them into the old Apple case, would that work? (I have read about spot soldering and it sounds a bit daunting)"
I think these batteries do contain some electronic circuitry, but I don't know whether that's the source of your problem (read on). In any case, with many years of technical work under my belt, I would be reluctant to attempt the cell transfer you suggest -- batteries have a way of being more dangerous than people think, as there's a fair amount of energy stored there.
But, on to your problem. You might nott want to say, but I'd be interested in the source of these batteries, as I'm in the middle of a "new" battery experience that has some similarities:
For reasons I won't go into, I have four iBooks in my possession -- and all had batteries in various states of decrepitude (some wouldn't take a charge at all, some would take different amounts of charge at different times, all were essentially useless). BUT ALL WERE RECOGNIZED BY THE COMPUTER.
So I purchased, on-line, two new batteries and they were delivered quickly. BOTH of them worked immediately and perfectly in TWO of the four computers, but went totally unrecognized in the other two computers. After considering the possibilities, I concluded that the problem might well be a very small misalignment of the connectors in the computers that didn't work with the connectors on the new batteries. (I'm talking about the plastic-shrouded 6-pin connectors, one in the computer and one on the battery, that engage when you install the battery). There is precedence for this kind of issue, as I have seen reports on the web of people resorting to cardboard shims to improve the engagement of the connectors. But, in my case, there simply is not room for any such shims, and nudging the battery one way or the other (a tiny distance) didn't make them work.
I had unrelated internal work to do on one of the two computers that didn't recognize the batteries.
While I had it apart, I replaced the battery charger board, which incorporates one of the mating connectors. (+I didn't suspect the electronics of that board, rather the physical positioning of the board as secured in the computer case, or of the connector on the board+.) The result was that this computer now worked with one of the new batteries but continued not recognizing the other new battery.
What this comes down to, I think, is a physical tolerance issue -- probably with the lateral positioning of the connectors, either in the computer, or on the battery, or a combination of both. It could also have to do with the connector condition. The connector in the computer is obviously (usually) as old as the computer itself; the connector on the battery is . . . who knows? Although the battery is said to be new, the battery manufacturers may somehow make use of old battery cases (and connectors). Most if not all connectors rely on some spring tension in the contacts to keep the contacts mated, and the contacts can also be affected by corrosion -- and deterioration of older connectors is simply a real possibility.
Would be really interested in what approach you take and the results. Please post back.
There seem to be a lot of sources for these batteries on-line, but it's possible they all come from a small number of outfits (or even just one outfit) that builds (or rebuilds) them. If, ultimately, all the battery cases (with the connector) come from just one source, then the problem might be likely to show up no matter what your source (or the name on the battery, etc.) If I'm correct on this, then it's going the be a gamble as to whether a battery purchased from another source will solve the problem.
But, what choice is there? I think your best bet might be to return that second battery and then buy another one from . . . ? (somebody different). Or maybe someone who follows this forum can name a recent supplier with which there has been no problem whatsoever.
Message was edited by: osimp

Advice on non-Apple branded replacement batteries?

Hi,
I need to get a new battery for my MacBook, and would like to avoid paying $129 for a new one from the Apple Store. I found the following battery on Amazon, and want to find out if anyone has any experience with this brand before I purchase it. Most of the batteries I've found (through a Shopzilla search) are around $65-70. This one is $44! So any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
Here's the link:
http://www.amazon.com/Techno-Macbook-Rechargeable-Battery-equivalent/dp/B003BV8A 7U/ref=sr19?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1278613077&sr=8-9
Thanks!
joanne

My opinion is how can you go wrong for $45? A one year replacement warranty to boot. I think I'm going to get one of these for myself. Thanks for the link!
And better yet and endorsement from Kappy! I'm getting one for sure.
Message was edited by: Mike Sombrio

Having trouble connecting non apple brand wireless keyboard

I recentily bought an ONN wireless Keyboard Model number LK6500R for my (early)2011 macbook pro version 10.7.3. I am having a problem connecting it to the computer. When i plug it in itself nothing happends. The keys and the "connect button" dont work. when i connect my mouse in with it, in the keyboard prefresences of the mac, the "change keyboard type" button appears. however when i follow the instruction for the mac to reconize the keyboard by pressing "z" nothing happends. Is this keyboard just not compatible? or is there something i need to download? (the keyboard has a "nano port "usb")

Have you tried restarting youre computer after you plug it in? It worked for me.

The software licence agreement with my new IPOD prohibits use on a non appl

the software licence agreement with my new IPOD prohibits use on a non apple branded computer (yeah, I know, no one reads these things) therefore, as I read the agreement, I am not allowed to install the software on teh CD that came with my new IPOD onto my computer - Interestingly enough, if I run just the itunes installer from the CD and not the "autorun" file, then I get a different licence agreement.
Will Apple compuer company please formally state that the supplied software may be installed on a non Apple branded computer

here is the section to which I was referring - it popped up when I first inserted the CD, and it runs when you install the IPOD updater - see the first sentence.
2. Permitted License Uses and Restrictions This License allows you to install and use one copy of the Apple Software on a single Apple-labeled device or computer at a time. The Apple Software may be used to reproduce materials so long as such use is limited to reproduction of non-copyrighted materials, materials in which you own the copyright, or materials you are authorized or legally permitted to reproduce. This License does not allow the Apple Software to exist on more than one such device or computer at a time, and you may not make the Apple Software available over a network where it could be used by multiple devices or multiple computers at the same time. You may make one copy of the Apple Software (excluding the Boot ROM code) in machine-readable form for backup purposes only; provided that the backup copy must include all copyright or other proprietary notices contained on the original. Except as and only to the extent expressly permitted in this License or by applicable law, you may not copy, decompile, reverse engineer, disassemble, attempt to derive the source code of, modify, or create derivative works of the Apple Software or any part thereof. Any attempt to do so is a violation of the rights of Apple and its licensors of the Apple Software. If you breach this restriction, you

10.6.2 update causes all non-Apple applications to crash.

update Final Cut Studio 3 and Aperture fail to open as well (pro apps)
Hi: Hoping for some expert help here.
Updated from 10.6.1 to 10.6.2 today, using the combo update. The Software Update version refused to install.
After a reboot, I was *unable to open any non-Apple branded application*. Firefox, Adobe CS3 or CS4, Roxio, MS Office, you name it. All Apple branded apps, iLife, iWork, Mail, Safari, all performed well.
I created a new admin account, hoping that those problems would not occur - but they did.
I have since done a Time Machine backup and am ready to do a clean install to rid myself of this mess.
Before I do, I'm wondering if there's an easy fix out there.
I did do a repair permissions before and after the install. I have removed Application Support files from the Library (both in the root and my profile).
Am now angry and frustrated, but this isn't the first time Apple has let me down with a poor update package.
Any suggestions/help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Message was edited by: Prof. Van Nostrum

donv (The Ghost) wrote:
I am still happily at 10.6 because .6.1 broke things for some and offered me nothing I needed. Looks like .6.2 combo will be the same. I have no incentive to install it.
Keep in mind:
1. There is no evidence that the Snow Leopard updates have broken anything for most users -- because of the focus of forums like this one on problems, they are not reliable indicators of typical results.
2. Among the reports of Snow Leopard update problems, many if not most are caused by unidentified pre-exsting conditions, not the updates themselves. These things should be fixed whether or not you update the OS because they usually get worse over time & eventually can't be ignored.
3. For almost all users there are very strong incentives to install the updates. Among them:
• Eliminating bugs that have been identified in the original release of the OS, typically ones that occur under relatively rare conditions. Just because one has not affected you yet does not mean it won't in the future.
• Adding small & sometimes not-so-small improvements in the reliability, efficiency, & optimization of applications & application services. Every OS release is subject to deadlines; there are always some things that could be improved given more time to work on them. Software updates give the engineers the time they need to add these tweaks to the system.
• Eliminating potential security exploits that have been identified in earlier releases of the OS. The OS is pretty secure to begin with; however, it is not so secure that users should become complacent about this -- especially since many of the flaws are well documented, meaning those with malicious intent can easily learn how to exploit them. This has been a historic problem with Windows: so many users of that OS are so lax about applying security updates that Windows malware that could not exploit the updated OS still regularly spread across the Internet & affect tens of millions of users. This includes Mac users because the malware often turns the vulnerable computers into "zombies" used to create botnets to do things like generate spam or launch denial of service attacks.
There is little indication that this kind of malware currently targets Macs -- Windows computers are still the low hanging fruit most malefactors target -- but continued complacency among Mac users about this issue plus the increasing market share of Macs do not bode well for the future.
Simply put, all OS's should be considered ongoing works in need of improvement. Apple does not make public all the fixes or improvements any OS update provides, so unless you try them you won't know how significant they will be for you. Caution is good -- always have a backup/reversion strategy should something go wrong -- but the old adage "if it ain't broke don't fix it" does not apply -- the OS is always broken so it is really a matter of how broken it is, not if it is or isn't.

AirPort Utility Can't See Extreme via Non-Apple Bridge

I have an Apple AirPort Extreme Base Station serving my network. Connected to the APExtreme I have a non-Apple brand wi-fi router that's in bridge mode so that a few devices in another room can still get wired network and the upstairs section of the house that's too far from the AirPort can get Wi-Fi via the non-Apple router's Wi-Fi.
It all works fine and speeds are fast. However, my MacBook Pro is one of the devices hooked up to the non-Apple via wired Ethernet. When I open the AirPort Utility it doesn't see the APEXtreme.
Is this as expected or should it still be able to find the AirPort through the Bridge? If the latter is true, what's keeping mine from seeing it? Any suggestions?

kpurcell wrote:
I have an Apple AirPort Extreme Base Station serving my network. Connected to the APExtreme I have a non-Apple brand wi-fi router that's in bridge mode so that a few devices in another room can still get wired network and the upstairs section of the house that's too far from the AirPort can get Wi-Fi via the non-Apple router's Wi-Fi.
You need to spell out the connection.. is this non-apple device connected by ethernet or is it a universal wireless repeater/bridge.
What is the make and model of the box that is acting as repeater.. also if 3rd party firmware tell us clearly what you are running.
In most wireless repeater, client bridge setups you have a big problem.. as all clients behind the repeater look like the same device to the main AE. It cannot tell what is who.. and is also likely to have bonjour issues.. which is essential for things like airport utility to work.
It all works fine and speeds are fast. However, my MacBook Pro is one of the devices hooked up to the non-Apple via wired Ethernet. When I open the AirPort Utility it doesn't see the APEXtreme.
Try a manual access. Find the IP of the AE.. from something that is plugged into it.. if normal default router mode it will show, 10.0.1.1
In airport utility have you
1. Changed over to ethernet.. nothing will show without doing this.. it always defaults to wireless. In an extremely odd way ethernet devices are shown under Other Wi-Fi Devices.. isn't that completely obvious!!
2. Ensure you have ipv6 set on ethernet to link-local only.
3. If nothing shows up do it even more manually and type in the address you already discovered.
No password is needed if defaults.. but also type in your access password if you changed it.
You should then get the full summary screen.

IPodTouch SDK for non apple bluetooth device

I need to know if I can programmatically connect my iPod Touch (OS 3.0) to a non apple blue tooth device using the Apple iPod SDK.
I know that I can connect my iPod Touch (OS 3.0) to other iPods using GameKit API, But can I connect to other non apple Bluetooth devices?

But can I connect to other non apple Bluetooth devices?
An iPhone or touch will connect to non-Apple branded devices via Bluetooth now, such as Motorola headphones or Jensen car stereos for audio playback and phone calls.
You need to specify what you want to do exactly if your plan is outside those types of connectivity. Other uses can include proximity and remote speaker applications.
You might want to look over the External Accessory framework, released with 3.0.
...keep in mind, however, that the only way to communicate with other BT devices via the EAF is if they are in the 'Made for iPod' accessory program. http://developer.apple.com/iphone/program/accessories/
However again.... Even though they communicate through standard BT connections, accessories need special hardware in order to process the data stream coming from the iPhone / iPod touch. Unfortunately, this may mean that any idea of communicating with generic BT devices won't work on iPhone OS 3.x.
If the devices you want to talk to are Bonjour-discoverable via WiFi, they don't need to be part of the MfI program. Does that sound like your case?
Also you may want to keep in mind that 3rd. party devs in the future may release dongles that connect via the 30-pin dock port, providing access to existing BT devices. If said devs opened their communication protocols, that might enable the goal of communicating with said devices.

IPhone6 is not sending or receiving texts from non-Apple users, except when in Group texts. I've tried the various fixes on the main support page to no avail. Any ideas?

iPhone6 is not sending or receiving texts from non-Apple users, except when in Group texts. I've tried the various fixes on the main support page to no avail. Any ideas?

Have you contacted your carrier to make sure there's no issues with your account?
~Lyssa

I want a new and more powerful (non-Apple) wireless router but I still want to use my existing Time Capsule to continue with my Time Machine backups and I still need the Time Capsule's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features and capabilities

THE SHORTER STORY
My goal is to successfully use my existing Time Capsule (TC) with a new and more powerful wireless router. I need a new and more powerful wireless router in order to reach a distant Denon a/v receiver that is physically located in a master bedroom some 50 feet away from my modem. I need to provide this Denon a/v receiver with an Internet connection so that it can obtain its firmware updates and I need to connect this Denon a/v receiver to my network in order to use its AirPlay feature. I believe l still need the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features because I am not sure if the new wireless router will provide me with the NAS like features / capabilities I need to share files between my two Apple laptops with OS X 10.8.2. And I know that I absolutely need my TC's seamless integration with Apple's Time Machine (TM) application in order to continue to make effortless backups of my two Apple laptops. To my knowledge nothing works with TM like Apple's TC. I also need the hard disk storage space built into the TC.
I cannot use a long wired Ethernet cable connection in this apartment and I cannot use power-line adapters. I have read that wireless range extenders and repeaters are difficult to successfully set-up and that they will reduce data speeds, especially so when incorrectly set-up. I cannot relocate my modem and/or primary base station wireless router.
In short, I want to use my TC with my new and more powerful wireless router. I need to stop using the TC to connect to the modem. However, I still need the TC for seamless TM backups. I also need to use the TC's built in hard drive for storage. And I may still need the TC's NAS capabilities to share files wirelessly between laptops because I am assuming the new wireless router will not provide NAS capabilities for OS X 10.8.2 (products like this/non-Apple products rarely seem to work with OS X 10.8.2/Macs to provide NAS features and capabilities). Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone please advise on how to set-up my new Asus wireless router with my existing TC in such a way to accomplish all of this?
What is the best configuration or set-up to accomplish my above goals?
Thank you in advance for your assistance!!!
THE FULL STORY
I live in an apartment building where my existing Time Capsule (TC) is located in my living room and serves many purposes. Specially, my TC is at least all of the following:
(1) Wi-Fi router connected to Comcast Internet service via Motorola SB6121 cable modem - currently the TC is the Wi-Fi base station that connects to the modem and has the gateway address to the Internet. The TC now provides the DHCP service for the Wi-Fi network.
(2) Wireless router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to several Wi-Fi clients - two Apple laptop computers, an iPod touch, an iPad and an iPhone all connect wirelessly to the Internet via the TC.
(3) Wired Ethernet router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to three different devices - a Panasonic TV, LG Blu-Ray player and an Apple TV each use one of the three LAN ports on the back of the TC to gain access to the Internet.
(4) Primary base station in my attempt to extend my wireless network to a distant (located far away) Denon a/v receiver requiring a wired Ethernet connection - In addition to the TC, which is my primary base station, I am also using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. I cannot use a wired Ethernet connection to continuously travel from the living room to the master bedroom. The distance is too great as I cannot effectively hide the Ethernet cable in this apartment.
(5) Time Machine (TM) backup facilitator - I use my TC to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops using Apple's Time Machine (TM) application. However, I ran out of storage space on my TC and therefore added external storage to it. Specifically, I added an external hard drive to my TC via the USB port on the back of the TC. I now use this added external hard drive connected to the TC via USB as the destination storage drive for my TM back-ups. I have partitioned the added external hard drive, and each of the several partitions all have enough storage space (e.g., each of the two partitions used by TM are sized at three times the hard drive space of each laptop, etc.). Everything works flawlessly.
(6) Network Attached Storage (NAS) - In addition to using the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) capabilities to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops via TM, I also store other additional files on both (A) the hard drive built into the TC and (B) the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB (there are additional separate partitions on this drive for these other additional and non-TM backup files).
I use the TC's NAS feature with my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Again, everything works wirelessly and flawlessly. (Note: the Apple TV is connected to the network via Ethernet and a LAN port on the back of the TC).
The issue I am having is when I try to listen to music via Apple's AirPlay in the master bedroom. This master bedroom is located at a distance of two rooms away from the TC's current location in the living room, which is a distance of about 50 feet. This apartment has a long rectangular floor plan where each room is connected to the next in a straight line. In order to use AirPlay in the master bedroom I am using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. This additional base station connects wirelessly to the WiFi network provided by my TC and then gives my Denon receiver the wired Ethernet connection it needs to use AirPlay. I have tried moving my iTunes music directly onto my laptop's hard drive, and then I used AirPlay on this same laptop to connect to the Denon receiver. I always get a successful connection and the song plays, but the problem is that the connection inevitably drops.
I live in an apartment building and all of the many wireless routers in this building create a great deal of WiFi interference on both the 2.4 GHz and 5GHz bands. I have tried connecting the Netgear product to each the 2.4 and 5 GHz bands, but neither band can successfully maintain a wireless connection between the TC and the Netgear product. I also attempted to maintain a wireless connection to an iPod touch using the 2.4 GHz band and AirPlay on this iPod touch to play music on the Denon receiver. Again, I was able to establish a connection and successfully play music, but after a few minutes the connection dropped and the music stopped playing. I therefore have concluded that I have a poor wireless connection in the master bedroom. I can establish a connection, but it is intermittent with frequent drops. I have verified this with both laptops by working in the master bedroom for an entire day on both laptops. The Internet connection in this master bedroom proved to drop out frequently - about once an hour with the laptops. The wireless connection and the frequency of its dropout are far worse with the iPod touch and an iPhone.
I cannot relocate the TC. Also, this is an apartment and I therefore cannot extend the range of my network with Ethernet cable (I cannot drill through walls/ceilings, etc.). It is an old building with antiquated wiring and power-line adapters are not likely to function properly, nor can I spare the direct power outlet required with a power-line adapter. I simply need every outlet I can get and cannot afford to block any direct outlet.
My solution is to use a more powerful wireless router. I found the ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router which will likely provide a better connection to my wireless Internet in the master bedroom than the TC. The 802.11ac band of this Asus wireless router is totally useless to me, but based on what I have read I believe this router will provide a stronger connection at greater distances then my TC. And I will be ready for 802.11ac when it becomes more widely available.
However, I still need to maintain the TC's ability to work seamlessly with TM to backup my two laptops. Also, I doubt the new Asus router will provide OS X 10.8.2 with NAS like features and capabilities. Therefore, I still would like to use the TC's NAS capabilities to share files on my network wirelessly assuming the Asus wireless router fails to provide this feature. I need a new and more powerful wireless router, but I need to maintain the TC's NAS features and seamless integration with TM. Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone advise on how to set-up my existing TC with this new Asus wireless router in such a way to accomplish all of this?
Modem
Motorola SB6121 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
Existing Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Apple Time Capsule
Apple Time Capsule MC343LL/A 1TB Sim DualBand (purchased June 2010, likely the Winter 2009 Model)
Desired New Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Non-Apple Asus
ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router
Extended Wi-Fi Base Station - Provides an Ethernet Connection to a Denon A/V Receiver Two Rooms Away from the Modem
Netgear Universal Dual Band Wireless Internet Adapter for TV & Blu-Ray (WNCE3001)
Addition External Hard Drive Attached to the Existing Apple Time Capsule via USB
WD My Book Studio 4TB Mac External Hard Drive Storage USB 3.0
Existing Laptops on the Wireless Network Requiring Time Machine Backups
MacBook Air (11-inch, Mid 2012) OS X 10.8.2
MacBook Pro (13-inch Mid 2010) OS X 10.8.2
Other Existing Apple Products (Clients) on the Wireless Network
iPod Touch (second generation) is model A1288.
iPad (1st generation)
Apple TV (3rd generation) - Quantity two (2)

Thanks Bob Timmons.
In regards to a Plan B, I hear ya brother. I am already on what feels like Plan Z. Getting WiFi to a far off room in an apartment building crowded with WiFi routers is a major pain.
I am basing my thoughts on the potential of a new and more powerful router reaching the far off master bedroom based on positive reviews on cnet.com, pcmag.com and pcworld.com. All 3 of these web sites have reviewed the Asus RT-AC66U 802.11AC wireless router as well as its virtual twin cousin 802.11n router. What impressed me is that all 3 sites rated this router #1 overall in terms of both range and speed (in both the 802.11n and 802.11AC flavors). They tested the router in real world scenarios where the router needed to compete with a lot of other wireless routers. One of the sites even buried this Asus router in a media room with thick walls and inside a media cabinet. This Asus router should be able to serve my 2.4 GHz band wireless clients (iPod Touch and iPhone 4) with a 2.4GHz Wireless-N band offering some 50 feet of dependable range and a 60 Mbps throughput at that range. I am hoping that works, but it's borderline for my master bedroom. My 5 GHz wireless clients (laptops) will enjoy a 5GHz Wireless-N band offering 150 feet of range and a 200 Mbps throughput at that range. I have no idea what most of that stuff means, but I did also read that Asus could reach 300 feet and I got really excited. My mileage may vary of course and I'm sure I'm making some mistakes in my interpretation of their data. However, my Winter 2009 Time Capsule was rated by cnet.com to deliver real world performance of less than that, and 802.11AC may or may not be useful to me someday. But when this Asus arrives and provides anything other than an excellent and consistent wireless signal without drops in the master bedroom it's going right back!
Your solution sounds great, but I have some questions. I'm using OS X 10.8.2 and Airport Utility (version 6.1 610.31) and on its third tab labeled "Wireless" the top option enables you to set "Network Mode" to either:
Create a wireless network
Extend a wireless network
Off
Given your advice to "Turn off the wireless on the TC," should I set Network Mode to Off? Sorry, I'm clueless in regards to how to turn off the wireless on the TC any other way. Can you provide specific steps on how to turn off the wireless on the TC? If what I wrote is correct then what should the rest of this Wireless tab look like, or perhaps it is irrelevant when wireless is off?
Next, what do you mean by "Configure the TC in Bridge Mode?" Under Airports Utility's fourth tab labeled "Network" the top option "Router Mode" allows for either:
DHCP and Nat
DHCP Only
Off (Bridge Mode)
Is your advice to Configure the TC in Bridge Mode as simple as setting Router Mode to Off (Bridge Mode)? If yes, then what should the rest of this "Network" tab look like? Anything else involved in configuring the TC in Bridge Mode or is it really as simple as setting the Router Mode to "Off (Bridge Mode)"?
How about the other tabs in Airport Utility, can they all stay as is assuming I use the same network name and password for the new Asus wireless router? Or do I need to make any other changes to the TC via Airport Utility?
Finally, in regards to your Plan B suggestion. I agree. But do you have a Plan B for me? I would greatly appreciate any alternative you could provide. Specifically, if you needed a TC's Internet connection to reach a far off corner of your home how would you do it? In the master bedroom I need both a wired Ethernet connection for the Denon a/v receiver and wireless Internet connection for the iPhone and iPod Touch.
Power-Line Adapters - High Cost, Blocks at Least One Wall Outlet and Does Not Solve the Wireless Need
I actually like exactly one power-line adapter, which is the D-Link DHP-540 PowerLine AV 500 4-Port Gigabit Switch. This D-Link power-line adapter plugs into your wall outlet with a normal sized plug (regular standard power cord much like any other electronic device) instead of all of the other recommended power-line adapters that not only use at least one wall outlet but also often block the second outlet. You cannot use a power strip with a power-line adapter which is very impractical for me. And everything about my home is strange and upside down. The wiring here is a disaster and I don't have faith in its ability to carry Internet access from the living room to the master bedroom. And this D-Link power-line adapter costs $90 each and I need at least two to make the connection to the Denon A/V receiver. So, $180 on this solution and I still don't have a dependable drop free wireless connection in the master bedroom. The Denon might get its Ethernet Internet connection from the power-line adapter, but if I want to use an iPhone 4 or iPod Touch to stream AirPlay music to the Denon wirelessly (Pandora/iTunes, etc.) from the master bedroom the wireless connection will not be stable in there and I've already spent $190 on just the two power-line adapters needed.
Extenders / Repeaters / Wirelessly Extending the Wireless Network
I have also read great things about the Amped Wireless High Power Wireless-N 600mW Gigabit Dual Band Range Extender (Repeater) SR20000G and the My Net Wi-Fi Range Extender. The former is very powerful and the latter is easier to install. Both cost about $150 ish so similar to a new Asus router. However, everything I read about Range Extenders points to them not being very effective for a far off corner of your house wherein it's apparently hard to place the range extender in the sweet spot where it both gets a strong enough signal to actually effectively extend the wireless signal and otherwise does not reduce network throughput speeds to unacceptable speeds.
Creating a Roaming Network By Hard Wiring with Ethernet Cable - Wife Would Say, "**** No!"
Even Apple seems to warn against wirelessly extending your network (see: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4145#) and otherwise strongly recommends a roaming network where Ethernet cable is used to connect two wireless base stations. However, I am in an apartment where stringing together two wireless base stations with Ethernet cable would have an extremely low wife acceptance factor (WAF). I cannot (both contractually and from a skill prospective) hide Ethernet wire in the walls or ceiling. And having visible Ethernet cable running from room-to-room would be unacceptable, especially to the wife.
So what is left? Do you have a Plan B for me? Thanks in advance for your help!

I have GarageBand for iPad 2 and noticed that there are far fewer loops for iPad than for apple laptops. Is there a library available of apple loops? I haven't been able to find any if there are. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have GarageBand for iPad 2 and noticed that there are far fewer loops for iPad than for apple laptops. Is there a library available of apple loops? I haven't been able to find any if there are. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Update: An Apple rep called me today to update the status of my return. I was told that the replacements for the BLACK iPad 2's was still another 3 weeks out (at least) so they offered me a brand new WHITE 16GB iPad 2. I could have that or continue waiting. I opted to go ahead and accept the offer of a new white one. Worst case scenario if I don't like the white one I have buddy that just bought a 16GB black one that he would be willing to swap it.

All non-Apple Wireless Clients won't Connect to Time Capsule

I have a latest gen Apple 2TB TC (ME177LL/A) and have had it for about 14 months. I have never had any issue with it in the past and have perhaps only had to reset it twice in that 14 month span.
Came home from work last night to watch some Netflix on my PS4, and noticed my PS4 couldn't connect to the network. In the PS4 OS I kept getting errors that said either the network no longer existed or my password was incorrect. I simply tried to re-enter my password multiple times, but only once was the PS4 successfully able to connect. The one time it did connect the network speed indicated in the PS4 speed test was less than 200 kpbs. Within moments, the PS4 lost connection again. I was unable to reconnect.
At this point I figured I would just use the PS3 instead...same issue, however. Initially thought it was perhaps a PSN issue, but this time I never once could get the PS3 to connect. It repeatedly just said the network wasn't available or the password was incorrect. Went through the same troubleshooting steps that I did on the PS4 with no luck.
At this point I realized my Lyric thermostat had been erroring out and giving me a notification on my phone---the app on my phone wasn't able to connect to the Lyric via Wifi. Also noticed my August Connect was flashing red and was not connected. DirecTV Genie was not connected to my TC network either. Then went to my home office to discover my Slingbox was no longer connected either. Interestingly enough, though, my iPhone, MacBook Pro, Mac Mini, wife's iPhone, and MacBook all were still connected to my TC network with no issues. I performed speed tests on all of them and all were giving me well over my 60 Gbps Internet speeds. These devices never disconnected nor had any hiccups.
Essentially determined all my non-Apple devices couldn't stay connected to the TC network.
Proceeded to just reset the TC and see what would happen. None of the non-Apple devices could connect. Same "Network not found/incorrect password"
Then proceeded to perform factory reset on TC. At the same time I unplugged my Charter internet modem from power and cat5 out. Powered on modem, waited. Then powered up TC. I did this process twice through, once with auto selected 2.4/5 Ghz channels--still had issue with devices being unable to connect. The second time through, I set up the 2.4/5 Ghz bases upon the most "open" channels as shown by iStumblr (I live in fairly large luxury apartment building that has many networks -- so there are A LOT of networks).
This time I appeared to have success. One-by-one I was able to connect all my non-Apple devices to this new network with the new SSID and credentials. All devices were able to connect and the PS3/PS4 were able to connect to PSN and I was very easily able to get Netflix.
Woke up this morning and noticed all non-Apple devices were once again not connected....really not sure what's going on. Didn't have time to dive in deeper before heading to work.
Just as an FYI, I have 2 different Macs backing up to the TC via Time Machine wirelessly (the primary reason I have a TC and not another router). Also have an Asustor AS5008T connected to the TC via round robin link aggregation. All Macs are running Yosemite. All iPhones are running iOS 8.3. Offhand, I don't know the firmware the TC is running. I made no recent changes to the network or any of the hardware.
Anybody have any idea what could be the culprit? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Whilst I said in my first post that apple had removed all the logs.. you can still get them via PC version 5 airport utility... you will need to plug in via ethernet since wireless is not working. You can also install v5 utility into a Mac but I cannot tell you how. Google it.
The other method.. and I am not at all sure if it is useful or not.
Using the airport utility in an ipad.. click on the TC, then edit.. then advanced.. Diagnostics and Usage Data.
Go into this and you will see the Airport utility has got a stack of info out of the TC..(for secret transmission to apple).
eg
I guess it is comparison between normal functionality and when it fails that will show something interesting.. meaning you will need to track the info... and it is not so easy to get it out other than as a screenshot..

Can I back up a non apple laptop if I had an external hard drive to my time machine?

Can anyone advise of a nice back up tool to use with time machine for non-Apple products?
Have used synctoy previously, and would like to auto back ups for all my devices, apple and non-Apple.
Have searched for advice on this in forum but could not find
Please help :-)

There is no such thing as a universal backup software. Each and every OS will have its own backup methods and software.
Time Machine is the Mac backup software.. it is not hardware.. what you are referring to is Time Capsule which is unrelated to the Time Machine.
We cannot give a generic answer to backup tool for every non-Apple device in existence..
The backup software is not on the Time Capsule.. it is nothing but a hard disk in a router. To every device Apple or Non-Apple the TC appears to be a Network Drive. Nothing more.
Windows for instance has the worst built in backup ever conceived of by man.. and if you own a home version of windows it will not even work to a network drive. So you need to buy one of the zillion backup programs available for windows that can actually backup to network drives.
But this forum is not about windows software.. look up what are good windows backup software in windows forums. Apple might sell the TC as windows compatible but they provide no backup software for windows. Or every other non-apple device in existence.
If you are interested,
I use Macrium Reflect free version for full disk backup and if you pay the licence you can get incremental to work.
Genius time line is a TM like backup that is promoted here in answer to this question all the time.. I am not sure. in windows circles, it rates very well, but here it looks like Time Machine so is popular.
Pick whatever.
For iOS it is not backed up to the Time Capsule at all and has no backup 3rd party I know of.. Apple designed it to backup to iTunes or iCloud.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1766
For Linux you will need to look it up yourself.
And the other Non-Apple products.. Android and the million other non-apple, all of them will have their own methods..

Now that Apple branded DVD media (DVD-R/-RW x2, 4, 8) No Longer Exists.....

I've had my Powerbook G4 for about 3 years now and have only been successful burning DVDs with Apple's own branded media. Other branded media has had a fairly high fail-rate with my UJ-816 Superdrive and there are no firmware updates for the model. Apple-branded media is just short of a ZERO fail rate (maybe 2-3 lost out of 200-300 DVDs and many hundreds of CDRs - honest, it's been that good).
Apple branded DVD-R/-RW media compatible with x2/x4/x8 (I have an x2 but it's been fine using x8) IS NO LONGER AVAILABLE. I've dug through Apple stores, Best Buy, online stores, eBay, MacMall, J&R Electronics, etc. and nothing.
So, does anyone else with one of these slower burning Superdrives have any recommendations for other branded media that they've found works successfully?
Thanks - I'm desperately trying to complete backup of a 30,000+ track audio library to DVD and this is really the wrong time to find the only media that worked is no longer marketed.
G4 Powerbook 17, 1.33 Ghz, 512 RAM Mac OS X (10.4.9)

Sorry to hear that, but there's surprising hope: you want to shop by manufacturer, not Brand. Indeed, check www.digitalfaq.com/media/dvdmedia.htm. Apple sold Mitsubishi discs. These are currently sold as Mitsubishi-Kagaku Media (MKM) by Verbatim & Infiniti (of England). You can shop by 'brand' locally, if you rewrite the 'brand' table on 'digitalfaq' by replacing the manufacturer by those manufacturers it subcontracts to (I assume the worst). :-[ Sony, Kodak, Panasonic, & Verbatim sell only the best, often Taiyo Yuden: reportedly the best manufacturer! But Taiyo Yuden can be bought directly from such internet stores as www.supermediastore.com/, where 200 8x Taiyo Yuden DVD-R discs in black, plastic sleeves are currently on sale for $40: that's US$ 0.20 each. Internet superstore like this are supposed to list the media codes, but all I've ever found is MKM listed. Other codes just list the brand's name: some brands don't even manufacture discs, and others that manufacture even the best discs subcontract to poor manufacturers when the company is in need. Taiyo Yuden doesn't subcontract. If you buy a mystery brand (which I don't believe is economical), check the return policy: they will replace discs that fail from visible damage, but who has the time for that? As a final note, many drives burn my MKM001s at 8x (because, I suspect, they consulted Verbatim when writing their firware table), whereas my LaCie writer (Samsung OEM) writes it at 2x (because, I suspect, they more responsibly consulted MKM for their table). If you burned Apple's DVD-Rs at 8x, check with Apple or http://www.cdfreaks.com/ and ask what speed your drive will burn the Taiyo Yuden DVD-R or the Verbatim DVD-RW, claimed to burn at 4x and currently selling for about US$1.00 each. I've a list of reputable internet stores selling blank media which I initially found, then added to from Germany (which are bilingual stores) & France (which wouldn't think of it). Apple likely prefers I offer such lists by e-mail. You're welcom to write, from a .Mac alias. PS. Check out 'Office Depot' brand on the first website.

8800 GT availability - Non Apple brand?

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