880GM-E43 Flaky Video

New system with the 880GM-E43 and the DSUB and DVI video is flaky with black line interference.Happens sometimes in my house, much more in the owners house. It "may" work using HDMI, I have to reconfirm that. Problem is the owner does not have HDMI monitor. I have updated BIOS, drivers, checked all connections, etc.
Any ideas?
Thanks

1 - I have tried 3 different monitors with the same number of different cables I did try anothe monitor with HDMI and I do not remember seeing the problem. I will recheck as soon as I get a longer HDMI cable so I can put the monitor in the same location and observe it for a period of time.
2 - If you are looking at the desktop, it breaks up with black horizontal lines throughout, they come and go. Nothing to do with watching "video" like "Youtube".
3 - I have tried various refresh rates and resolutions
4 This is a completely new build, 500 watt PS, 4 GB ram, Win 7 Home Premium, Athlon II X4

Similar Messages

  • 880GM-E43 - What is the "real" maximum memory for this mobo?

    Hi,
    I have a system that I built awhile ago that uses the 880GM-E43 mobo.  At the time that I built this system, everything that I found indicated that the max memory was 16GB (4 x 4GB), which is what I have installed now.
    I've been wanting to have more memory (lots of VMware guests), so I've been starting to look at building a new system, which I thought would have required a different mobo that supports 32GB (4 x 8GB) and a new set of 8GB memory sticks.
    While I was researching that, I found this:
    http://www.msi.com/product/mb/880GM-E43.html
    and under the Specifications tab, it says:
    Code: [Select]
    DDR3 Memory DDR3 800/1066/1333/1600*(OC)
    DDR2 Memory N/A
    Memory Channel Dual
    DIMM Slots 4
    Max Memory (GB) 32 
    Everywhere else, other than the MSI website itself, still seems to say "16GB" max.
    Does anyone know which maximum is correct?  Is it 16GB, or is it 32GB?
    Please advise.
    Thanks,
    Jim

    Quote from: Bas on 02-January-12, 23:48:42
    It's only limited to what the CPU can handle, and that is far more then you can buy at this time
    However, MSI only tested at the time of production of the board.
    So if you use bigger modules you have to test yourself if it works with your CPU, the board got nothing to do with it.
    What ever you do, don't mix sizes and brands, often goes wrong.
    Bas,
    Not doubting what you said, but I hope that's the case.  Will post back as soon as it gets in and I get a chance to test it.  As you suggested, I'll initially remove the 4x4GB sticks, and replace them with the new 2x8GB sticks, and see how that works.  If it that works, I'll put in the additional 2x4GB (understood what you said, but this is interim).
    Then, if that works, I can wait for maybe prices to drop to get an additional 2x8GB kit, but going to 24GB will help a lot with the work that I'm doing (mostly Vmware guests).
    Jim

  • 880GM-E43 voltage settings

    My 880GM-E43 has the following voltage settings:
    CPU VDD-auto
    CPU NB VDD-auto
    CPU-auto
    CPU NB-auto
    DRAM-auto
    If I use -/+ keys, it will either move to the lowest or highest setting. So I'm not sure what the stock voltages are for CPU VDD and CPU NB VDD, as I'm not sure what they're for (the other 3 voltages I know). I'm used to seeing NB and SB voltage options instead.
    Does someone know what the stock voltage settings for CPU VDD and CPU NB VDD are, so I can start from there when overclocking?
    Also, I notice the 880GM-E43 support section on the MSI website doesn't have a BIOS download page (just driver, utility, manual). Any reason for that?

    Quote from: airtrons on 09-September-10, 11:02:04
    I ran the Memtest for 6+ hrs, no errors.
    I did get the new drive today, and did a fresh install of W7 on it. BSOD right after I installed the SB drivers. This time I got PCI.SYS and NDIS.SYS.
    I haven't installed any further drivers; running W7 stock from the dics - no updates either.
    CPU-Z shots:
    Quote
    I ran the Memtest for 6+ hrs, no errors.
    do more testing with Orthos:
    https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=103598.msg760534#msg760534
    also switch to 2T and re-test.
    Quote
    I did get the new drive today, and did a fresh install of W7 on it. BSOD right after I installed the SB drivers. This time I got PCI.SYS and NDIS.SYS.
    what if you don't install them? does the bsod persist?
    what's the bsod error code?
    This sound like network card driver..

  • 880GM-E43 (AMD/AM3) Topic was Removed by Stu

    A message was posted but sjay, but deleted by Stu.
    Was this about Windows7x64 bitlocker compatibility with 880GM-E43?
    Who knows Why?  I don't know, can't send Msgs to Stu....
    Sjay,
    What's up?  Can you post under the following if you had useful info deleted by Stu?  
    https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=147916.msg1100027#msg1100027
    Thanks

    Stu removed your other topic because you already have a topic started on the same subject.
    For what it's worth, Sjay said this:
    Quote
    I haven't verified anything because I don't have the resources or the board, but I can tell you that if you connect the TPM cabling it would probably work. My board (GMA-E-55) has a TPM wire/cable connection, I just have no idea of its usage.
    Refer to your manual.
    Please only post in the other topic. I will lock this topic now.

  • 880GM-E43 won't power on

    I built this system about 6 months ago.  880-GM-E43, AMD Phenom II 1055T Hex core.  Was running fine and then in the middle of working just powered off.  At first I thought power Supply so tested that, it's OK.  I can hook everything up and power is fine, except when I plug the 4-Wire CPU power to the MB, It will not power on then.  Did my CPU Fry??  If so, what would be a good replacement?  I don't need the Hex Core, it was just bundled in with the "Put together yourself" kit from Newegg.

    Quote from: georgetaylor on 14-February-12, 05:11:53
    I built this system about 6 months ago.  880-GM-E43, AMD Phenom II 1055T Hex core.  Was running fine and then in the middle of working just powered off.  At first I thought power Supply so tested that, it's OK.  I can hook everything up and power is fine, except when I plug the 4-Wire CPU power to the MB, It will not power on then.  Did my CPU Fry??  If so, what would be a good replacement?  I don't need the Hex Core, it was just bundled in with the "Put together yourself" kit from Newegg.
    Guess I didn't give enough info, so here is more:
    Rosewill R519 Black Computer case with 500 Watt Power Supply
    MSI 880GM-E43 AM3  AMD 880G HDMI Micro ATX AMD Motherboard
    AMD Phenom II 1055T Thuban 2.8GHZ Socket AM3 125W Six-Core Desktop Processor
    4GB (2x2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM 1600 Dual Channel Memory
    Seagate Barracuda ST31000524AS 1TB 7200 RPM SATA Drive
    LITE-ON CD/DVD Burner SATA

  • 880GM-E43 Re-booted itself while running Prime95 torture test

    RE: Newly build 880GM-E43 (MS-7596) BIOS: 2.1; OS: WHS w/PP3 using XP 32-bit drivers
    Phenom II x4 925, 2x 2GB Kingston PC3-10600 KVR1333D3K3/4GR (Passed 1 cycle Windows Memory Diagnostic), Fortron 350W PSU FSP350-60GLN(80) (9PA3508505), 4TB WD Green, LG DVD-RW IDE
    Re-booted itself this morning  while running Prime95 overnight. At the time it re-booted, I've installed current drivers from MSI except "display driver" (defaulted to Standard VGA). This morning, I download & installed the latest ATi Radeon HD4200 driver only (without Catalyst).
    Wanted to re-flash to latest BIOS, but failed to find any on MSI website. Any linky to correct version BIOS would be much appreciated.

    Thank you kindly for your response and for pointing out those +12V rails "current output" concern.
    After double checking on the manufacturer's web page http://www.shopfsp.com/fsp35060gln80/p/426.html and referring to the label adhered on the PSU, both +12V rails is supposedly +12V¹@15A and +12V²@15A and their combined max output is 336W and not 10A & 15A respectively (as shown of the other web page).
    Presently, we've two other similar setups and PSU in service for over the last six months is running stable; for now I ruled out the PSU as the culprit to the "re-booting" issue.
    Does anyone happen to know what is the power consumption of the 880GM-E43 with embedded ATi Radeon HD 4250 IGP?
    Thank you in advance. Ciao!

  • Temp problem with 880gm-e43

    Hey
    I have been having a problem with a new build of an 880gm-e43/athlon II 640 quad core.
    I haven't been able to get the temps or voltages to read correctly in any monitoring software. Bios temps have read 24-28c, 12v volts 12.28, while software in vista temps have been reading 6c-18c and 12v has been reading 4-5 volts. I have tried amd overdrive, hwmonitor, speedfan, core temp, etc all saying the same thing. I am running;
    msi 880gm-e43
    athlon 640 x4
    corsair 520 watt ps
    wd 250 gb drive
    Win Vista 32
    Kingston DDR3 1333 ram, 2gb
    I have turned off acc, green power, amd cool and quiet, changed a large number of settings, but this still remains. I have updated to cat 10.10, added the sb drivers, and I have also updated the bios from v 2.9 to v 2.a via live update, reset all bios settings to optimized, then reset to turning off acc, green power, but have cool and quiet on again. I also have the cpu fan set to 25% now, and sys fan to 50%.
    I am at a loss as to the error on temps. Any help would be appreciated
    Thanks
    PS: Also one question as to Bios updates. I didn't see any listed for manual download under 880gm-e43, it just gave the link for live update. Other motherboards have bios listed for them for manual download. just wondering....

    well, been looking elsewhere for the problem
    Fredrik said
    Vista can not handle other companies' auto-starting programs (very well). That end is where I believe you should look for solutions.
    So what you are saying is that Vista is the reason why I can't get anything to monitor accurately? Or is it that having the progs autostart is the problem? Because I have vista running on an older am2 msi board and reading temps/volts/etc properly. I am manually starting the programs after boot and log in and the drivers associated with them seem to be loaded when necessary. So the OS in and of itself doesn't seem to be the issue exactly. It just seems as if something isn't communicating the info properly to the utilities that should be reading it, or they are reading the info given incorrectly. I guess what is puzzling is that there aren't any other comments by other 880gm-e43 owners with this problem so I wondered if it was something particular to my set up, or is this something that will be solved in future updates of software, or is it something else...

  • Msi 880GM-E43 can't overclock my ram

    My Computer Spec:
    880GM-E43 BIOS 2.11, Sempron 140/Sempron 145(Unlock)/Athlon X2 5200(Unlock), Windows 7 Home Premium 32 bit
    Super Talent WB160UB2G8 (Default: 1600MHz CL8-8-8-24-36 1T)*
    Corsair HX850W +12V~70A, +5V~25A, +3.3V~25A
    Galaxy GTS250 1GB
    WD Caviar Blue WD6400AAKS 640GB 16 MB cache SATA 2.0
    ASUS DVD/CD R-W
    * This ram cannot find on SuperTalent offical webpage.
    Bios show "cmos checksum bad" when I overclock my Ram(1600MHz CL8-8-8-24-36 1T change to 1600MHz CL7-8-8-24-36 1T or 1600MHz CL7-8-7-24-36 1T etc.)
    This ram maybe use ELPIDA BDBG ram chips(find from internet)

    Got the same probs as you mate. Can't push my 3000+ much higher than 208mhz FSB either, it just resets and sometimes throw up errors when i try.
    My specs are as follows;
    AMD64 3000+ (Stock cooler)
    2x512 Geil Value pc3200 RAM
    K8N NEo Platinum
    2x 80gig Maxtor SATA (RAID 0)
    ATI 9800pro
    Temp was really high (idle 49, load 59!) when i first got it but after changing to the 1.4 bios i get idle 36, load 45 now.
    Strangely my system is not set at 200mhz FSB by default. When i try to go to default FSB or try 200Mhz FSB it sets to 201Mhz instead so my system is at 2010Mhz, I cant get 200Mhz bus! At this setting its really 'jumpy' when playing games i get little judders/pauses. When i overclock to 205mhz+ then it runs smooth as anything, it's really strange.
    Well i've tried AGP at 67 and 68 no luck, moved SATA over to the 3/4 Ports, relaxed memory timings, upped voltage on both ram and CPU, removed drives, etc no luck at all :(
    Temps are well within limits (Apart from this the system runs rock solid, primes at full load for 9+ hours overnight easy at 2080Mhz with temps reaching 49C, just absolutely no luck in overclocking any further.
    I've decided to use this setup for a HTPC instead and build another with a DFI board and hopefully fare better next time.
    H.Hoang

  • MSI 880gm-e43 ddr3 1600 support

    I recently purchased this motherboard (msi 880gm-e43), and Kingston HyperX 4GB KHX1600C9AD3K2/4G ram kit. However while both are supposed to support DDR3 1600MHz, I only get 1333 with the default configuration.
    Do I need to change overclocking settings to get these working? If so how can I do that?
    (Btw, SPD shows up to 1333 only, while MSI's control panel applications also has another entry for XMP-1600, which I do not exactly know how it differs).

    I though I was able to do it. There was a simple option, which allowed 1600MHz with no issues.
    But it turns out that mode comes with increasing DRAM timers. Is there a way to increase the clock speed, while keeping the timers fixed?
    (I compared Windows Experience Index scores, it performs exactly the same in both those configurations).
    There is this page, but it has no documentation, and I have no idea how to set it up:

  • Anyone tried AM3+ on 880gm-e43 ?

    I see some other 880 boards will officially run AM3+ / FX  cpu's but they are not listed on the cpu support page for this board, but I see it has not been updated for some time. Want to know if anyone has tried and what cpu, and what messages did they get (unknown cpu) if it did power up.

    Quote from: Stu on 21-February-11, 15:28:23
    All you've told us so far about this is that it "doesn't work".
    Have you checked in Windows Audio settings that your default audio output device is set correctly? (ie 'speakers' instead of 'digital audio')
    I'm sorry, let me give more detail on the audio problem. I have speakers plugged into the "Line-Out" (or the light green colored) jack. However, when I scroll over the little speaker icon on the bottom right of my screen (which has a red circle with a white "X" over it), it says:
    "Volume: 0
    Speakers
    2- Realtek High Definition Audio"
    When I right-click the icon and press Volume Mixer, it says "No audio device is installed"
    If I right-click the speaker icon and press Playback Devices, it lists two devices: "Speakers" (Which also say in a lighter font underneath it "2- Realtek High Definition Audio" and "Working") and "Realtek Digital Output" (Which says the same thing as "Speakers" underneath it).
    The "Speakers" icon has a green check mark next to it, and if i double-click it, it says it is enabled.
    This is all of the information that I know of that is wrong with my audio. If there is something else that you would like me to check, please tell me. I could use any help I can get.
    And thank you for the help with the HDMI and VGA problem. I didn't realize that the integrated video would be disabled.

  • MOVED: 880gm-e43 with Crucial SSD = very slow windows boot times

    This topic has been moved to Windows 64bit.
    https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=155325.0

    Hi,
    Thank you for your post.
    From your description, I see the issue you are facing is there is no menu to choose OS when booting dual boot(Windows 7 & Windows 8). Please let me know if I have misunderstood anything.
    It seems that the Windows 7 entry is missing, currently, we can use a tool –
    EasyBCD to get it back. After downloading it, choose the Add/Edit panel item, select the OS you're missing and let the program detect it. Then simply click the Add button to add the missing OS entry.
    At the meantime, here is a related link which demonstrates how to keep Windows 7 as the default OS in dual boot, you may use it for a reference.
    How to Dual-Boot Windows 8 While Keeping Windows 7 As Your Default OS
    http://blog.laptopmag.com/how-to-dual-boot-windows-8-while-keeping-windows-7-as-your-default-os
    [Please Note: Since the website is not hosted by Microsoft, the link may change without notice. Microsoft does not guarantee the accuracy
    of this information.]
    Regarding your second questions in your first post, you can refer to the following link to know more about dual boot.
    Dual
    Booting Explained: How You Can Have Multiple Operating Systems on Your Computer
    http://www.howtogeek.com/187789/dual-booting-explained-how-you-can-have-multiple-operating-systems-on-your-computer/
    [Please Note: Since the website is not hosted by Microsoft, the link may change without notice. Microsoft does not guarantee the accuracy
    of this information.]
    Hopefully the information is helpful. Please let me know if you have any questions. Thanks for your time.
    Best Regards,
    Sophia Sun
    Please remember to click “Mark as Answer” on the post that helps you, and to click “Unmark as Answer” if a marked post does not actually answer your question. This can be beneficial to other community members reading the thread.

  • MOVED: MSI 880gm-e43 ddr3 1600 support

    This topic has been moved to Overclockers & Modding Corner.
    https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=145131.0

    I though I was able to do it. There was a simple option, which allowed 1600MHz with no issues.
    But it turns out that mode comes with increasing DRAM timers. Is there a way to increase the clock speed, while keeping the timers fixed?
    (I compared Windows Experience Index scores, it performs exactly the same in both those configurations).
    There is this page, but it has no documentation, and I have no idea how to set it up:

  • MOVED: msi 880GM-E43 can't overclock my ram

    This topic has been moved to Overclockers & Modding Corner.
    https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=144700.0

    Got the same probs as you mate. Can't push my 3000+ much higher than 208mhz FSB either, it just resets and sometimes throw up errors when i try.
    My specs are as follows;
    AMD64 3000+ (Stock cooler)
    2x512 Geil Value pc3200 RAM
    K8N NEo Platinum
    2x 80gig Maxtor SATA (RAID 0)
    ATI 9800pro
    Temp was really high (idle 49, load 59!) when i first got it but after changing to the 1.4 bios i get idle 36, load 45 now.
    Strangely my system is not set at 200mhz FSB by default. When i try to go to default FSB or try 200Mhz FSB it sets to 201Mhz instead so my system is at 2010Mhz, I cant get 200Mhz bus! At this setting its really 'jumpy' when playing games i get little judders/pauses. When i overclock to 205mhz+ then it runs smooth as anything, it's really strange.
    Well i've tried AGP at 67 and 68 no luck, moved SATA over to the 3/4 Ports, relaxed memory timings, upped voltage on both ram and CPU, removed drives, etc no luck at all :(
    Temps are well within limits (Apart from this the system runs rock solid, primes at full load for 9+ hours overnight easy at 2080Mhz with temps reaching 49C, just absolutely no luck in overclocking any further.
    I've decided to use this setup for a HTPC instead and build another with a DFI board and hopefully fare better next time.
    H.Hoang

  • MSI 880GM-e35 Wakeing up from sleep by USB mouse or USB keyboard

    I have two 880gm-e35 boards that will not wake up from sleep by Keyboard or mouse. (S3) sleep condition.
    -They wake up by tapping the power button..ok.
    On the E-35 boards If I set the (S1) Sleep condition where the fans stay on and power light does not blink, they wake up by USB mouse.
    I have a 880gm-e43 that does wake up from (S3)  sleep by usb mouse or keyboard.
    They are configured about the same, the E43 has a couple more options in that area but basically the same.
    Is that normal, The Bios kind of implies that it should wake up from S3, but no luck.
    Not a big deal, but I would prefer the USB wakeup, if possible..!

    Thanks for the reply. On the right track, but could not find that option.
    maybe I will look to see if they have other bios options for that board.
    Thanks again...

  • Photoshop wont open!

    Ok now i cant figure this out. i installed the recent security update and now things are going screwy. i go to open up photoshop and it wont open. the dock icon bounces then goes away leaving me wondering whats going on. I uninstalled and re installed the whole Creative Suite but photoshop still wont budge. It was working just fine before the security update and now i duno what. is this to blame or is there something else?

    Ok, I got this right from the source, so ideally it will work. OK
    Follow the directions, repost and let me know
    MAC OS10:
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    If the problem clears logged into a new "Spare User" account, a User's account preference is corrupted. If the problem does not clear in a new "Spare User" account, the problem is likely system wide, or hardware.
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    Test Hardware Interface gballard.net for the hardware's ability to transfer data free of corruption on hard disk drive interfaces (such as SCSI, IDE, etc.). See the bottom of the linked page and DOWNLOAD Timothy A. Seufert's dctest. Dctest assumes that your CPU and memory and disk are working fine. There are OS9 and OSX versions in the download.
    Bad Damaged Hard Drives:
    If running Apple's Disk Utility's FirstAid Repair Disk and Repair Permissions, and the Mac's fsck -y Unix command cannot fix any all disk problems, I would recommend running third-party disk utilities BEWARE! gballard.net only as a last resort.
    Bad Blocks apple.com on the hard drive can also cause a computer to be very unstable....
    "Haxies," those free/shareware, application and user hacks that modify various System features, application programs and plug-ins, including bad fonts and font management gballard.net, are also prime SUSPECTS to troubleshoot and rule out, as are flaky video–card drivers. Check your video card manufacturer web site for video card firmware updaters, new drivers and compatibility issues.
    Another thing to troubleshoot for is illegal Unix characters in the file names starting from the hard drive name down. These illegal characters may include: * ~ / + ! " é ñ ; : ) ? (see Mac and Windows OS File/Folder naming rules portfoliofaq.com for complete information). If you're using any illegal characters (or extra long names or spaces) in your naming hierarchy, try renaming them.
    Photoshop CS and CS2 seems to be super sensitive to bad fonts, so be sure to rule out the fonts if you are having stability issues.
    Troubleshooting Photoshop won't install, from the original Adobe Install CD, try copying the 'Adobe(R) Photoshop(R) Folder' (100 to 150 MB) to the desktop - this folder contains the installer and all its files. Eject the CD, and run the installer from the desktop.
    This copy-installer-folder-to-hard-drive technique works on the Adobe installers that require us to verify an original full install CD (insert the full retail install CD, when the installer asks for it point it to the CD).
    For troubleshooting specific numeric Mac OS error codes, try appleerrorcodes.com.
    My most decisive TroubleShooting technique — Empty = Versatile gballard.net — is to Test on an OS–Suspect Level. In less than an hour, this method effectively rules out the hardware, the install and its other third–party issues.
    Ann Shelbourne offers some sage font troubleshooting advice, Ann wrote:
    Have you cleaned out your AdobeFnt.lst files recently?
    Do a Search for "adobefnt" and delete all that you find — except for "AdobeFnt.db".
    (Don't worry, they will re-create themselves as needed).
    Have you ruled out conflicts between System fonts and your other fonts? (Ann continued)
    Have you ran Cocktail?:
    Launch Cocktail
    Choose "Pilot"
    Check everything on the first dialog and set to "Automatically: Restart"
    Then click Options and check everything except "Cookies"
    Return to main panel and click "RUN"
    It will take just a few minutes and should improve performance.
    Wade Zimmerman has found a quirky FIX for Photoshop CS (8.0) not opening, crashing on launching, under Panther 10.3.2, Wade wrote:
    Try changing the time zone then change it back to the correct time zone that you are in but first trash your PS Preference, if that does not work try changing the City within the time zone and then change it back. Or some kind of combination. But again, each time trash PS preferences maybe even restarting the computer.
    Ann Shelbourne added, if you are in the UK, don't choose GMT but choose your nearest city by name.
    This sounds goofy — but it has worked for a lot of users.
    +++
    Also, Photoshop> Preferences> Memory & Image Cache:
    Jeff Schewe, Adobe Photoshop expert, offers us the facts on Photoshop, Jeff writes:
    Read this: Photoshop CS2-How much RAM? – Fact
    http://photoshopnews.com/2005/04/04/photoshop-cs2-how-much-ram-fact/
    When you get done and understand it, try reading: Memory allocation and usage (Photoshop CS2)
    http://www.adobe.com/support/techdocs/320005.html/
    And then read:
    Improve performance in Photoshop CS2 on computers with more than 1 GB RAM
    http://www.adobe.com/support/techdocs/331372.html/
    My two cents on the subject:
    Memory: Try setting 50 percent (no higher than 75 percent) for anything less than 2 GB RAM.
    Over 2.5 giga bytes of RAM: The Mac OS limits all applications to maximum of 2 giga bytes of RAM. In other words, setting Photoshop's Memory setting to 100% will provide Photoshop with up to 2 GB memory, and leave the remaining 500 MB for the Operating System and other applications.
    We do need to be careful to leave a cushion of unused RAM for whatever applications we run concurrently with Photoshop.
    If we get a lot of OS 10's Spinning Beachball Color Wheel while using Photoshop, we probably need to install more RAM, or assign a lesser percentage of RAM to Photoshop. Seeing the BeachBall is normal for working on very large files (over 200 mega bytes) while Photoshop's ScratchDisks gballard.net catch up.
    With over 3 giga bytes of installed RAM, I would start with a 100–percent Memory setting in Photoshop.
    NOTE: Adobe is recommending the Ram/Memory issues for 2.5GB-plus work stations...if 100% Memory is not working optimally, as recommended above, try reducing down to a "safer" 75%, said Adobe's Chris Cox.
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    Trashing Preferences:
    If you're trying to rule out Photoshop corruption or reset Default settings, FIRST try trashing:
    HardDrive> User> Library> Preferences> Adobe Photoshop 7.0 Settings folder.
    HardDrive> User> Library> Preferences> com.adobe.Photoshop.plist file.
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    Relaunch Photoshop.
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    HardDrive> Applications> Adobe Photoshop 7/CS folder.
    HardDrive> User> Library> Preferences> Adobe Photoshop 7.0 Settings folder.
    HardDrive> User> Library> Preferences> com.adobe.Photoshop.plist file.
    Reinstall Photoshop.
    Run all Photoshop Updaters adobe.com.
    +++++
    If the problem has not cleared after purging/reinstalling/updating Photoshop, the problem is likely outside of Photoshop in third–party, bad hardware or a corrupted install. At this point we generally need to Initialize/Erase/StartFromScratch gballard.net...a good opportunity to rethink Partitioning our disks for a Photoshop workflow gballard.net and implement a BackUp strategy gballard.net.
    In severe cases — to prepare a Mac for a Apple Authorized Service Provider (AASP) — I follow my troubleshooting MELTDOWN procedure gballard.net. In addition to repairing any Bad Blocks, this procedure will be conclusive in a couple hours, plus the time it takes to ZeroWrite Write Zeros, if the problem is hardware or installed software or damaged hard drive....
    +++++
    BEFORE Initializing, Reformatting, Erasing:
    SEARCH the Adobe Photoshop Mac Forum adobe.com , GoogleWeb.com, and GoogleGroups.com for key words for second opinions, known bugs, posted fixes, solutions and work arounds.
    +++++

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