920 in low light.

Hello Nokia,
I had two Lumia 920s and both had not so good low light capabilities, but from what I see on the internet the Lumia 920 has very good low light capabilities.
I only have one question: is it possible that phones sold in different regions have different cameras?

They all have the same camera but the photos you saw may have been taken under different conditions and camera settings.

Similar Messages

Lumia 920 "Unbeatable low-light performance" - is ...

I’ve tried to reproduce photos advertised by Nokia and …. Failed!!!
I’ve tried different settings (pretty much all that exist on 920) and my pictures were not even close to Nokia’s.
Is that a hoax? “low-light” pictures was one of the biggest (that and these floating lenses) reason I picked Lumia over HTC 8x.
What am I missing? What is your experience?
P.S.
on Nokia's picture, it says that the shot was taken by a protorype device....i wonder if that prototype has a better camera than end product.
Nokia's advertized low-ligh picture:
http://i.nokia.com/image/view/-/1824230/medRes/5/-/ApolloPureView-image2.jpg

@AlexOdin
I've attached a couple of stills comparing the N8's night mode and Lumia 920's night mode both without using flash. Both shots were taken with seconds of each other under the same low light conditions.
I'm quite impressed with the results of the 920.
Cheers.
Ray.
Attachments:
N8 without flash.jpg ‏202 KB
Lumia 920 without flash.jpg ‏217 KB

Low light camera issue

http://youtu.be/ibR_mFxOIuw
when i take a low light picture my screen flashes white. is this normal? it happens in night scene. also i thought this camera could take images in darkness but i can barely take pictures is low light. my subjects are very dark. My i phone 4s does a better job side by side with my lumia in low light. how is this possible. i cant even return it to att for another replacement because my 14 days is up and all they will do is send me a used phone. **bleep**. This is my second lumia 920 as the first had a battery issue. Im done .Im about to sell this thing on ebay and get a iphone. After 2 weeks nokia has ruin the wp8 experience for me. im so **bleep**.

That white flash you're seeing is most likely the autofocus assist light (i.e. uses the dual LED's next to the camera). In low light, it is suggested to turn the flash off anyway. It is normal behaviour. If you are still having problems, perhaps take your phone to a Nokia Care point instead. to locate your nearest Nokia care: http://nokia.com/suppot
And as this is a user to user forum only, you can contact Nokia directly to leave feedback by clicking the Contact Us link at the bottom of this page.

Iphone 5S low light video recording is very dark :(

Hello Friends,
I bought a new iphone 5S and its few days only since i have been using this phone
and i never tested video camera before.
recently i came to know while taking some video in a low light situation, i noticed that the video is **** dark and
it looks pathetic though in image mode the camera appeares to be good and its clearly brighter.
but when i switch to video mode it becomes very darker.
I did some comparison just to confirm my suspicion and in fact it turns out that videos are worse quality than videos that i shot with my iphone 4S, i tried all possible settings but nothing worked,
i did restore my phone twice by assuming it is a software issue however i still believe it might be a software issue because when i am using 3rd party app to take video everything is perfect. even if i am using the same camera feature through imessage/whatsapp by directly accessing camera it works fine.
i don't know what exactly the problem is
please friends help me....if anyone has faced the similar problem.
Thank you

Hello there, ankitnavgwal.
Good job on troubleshooting your issue so far. The following Knowledge Base article offers a great checkllist of practical steps for troubleshooting issues with iOS not functioning as expected:
iOS: Not responding or does not turn on - Apple Support
If a single application is not responding or stops responding when it opens, you can force it to close.
If the device is unresponsive or if certain controls aren't working as expected, restart your device.
If the device remains unresponsive or does not turn on (or power on), reset your device.
If there is no video or if the screen remains black, verify that the device has enough charge to turn on:
If you are using an iPad, ensure that it's connected to the USB Power Adapter supplied with the device.
Let it charge for at least twenty minutes, then see if it starts normally.
If there is no image on the screen, press the Sleep/Wake button to attempt to wake the device.
If the screen displays a red battery icon, continue charging the device until the battery is fully charged. Learn more about charging iPhone and iPod touch, or iPad.
If the above steps do not resolve the issue, or the if the screen remains black or shows a persistent Apple logo, try restoring with iTunes:
Connect the device to your computer and open iTunes.
If the device appears in iTunes, select and click Restore on the Summary pane. Learn more about restoring iOS software.
If the device doesn't appear in iTunes, try to force the device into recovery mode, and then restore it.
If the above steps do not resolve the issue, contact Apple.
Thanks for reaching out to Apple Support Communities.
Cheers,
Pedro.

Keyboard no longer illuminates in low light

The keyboard is supposed to illuminate in low light. I checked the keyboard preferences and enabled it, but it doesn't do what it's supposed to. It's been like this for a long time. It must have quit with one of the OS updates, but I don't know with which one.
This is what I have: MacBook Pro, Mac OS X (10.7.5), 2.8 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, 4 GB RAM

Hi again,
An update. After I posted my initial message last night I checked to see if my iSight camera was working. I opened up PhotoBooth and all looked fine. I closed PhotoBooth. My keyboard illuminated. It's been fine since then, including the latest Mac updates installed after my post last night, the firmware update also no problem. Keyboard still looking good. However, I still have this green light that shows up when F6 is depressed. Odd that. Now, I will say that when trying to go to the Support area on Apple tonight the keyboard lighting went off until I closed Safari (3.2.3, 5525.28.3). When re-opened it was again normal with the background lighting returned.
Any ideas on the green light? Is it part of a problem that needs to be looked at? Also, the lighting hadn't changed when Safari was being used when the lighting went off. Any ideas on what's happening there as well?
Thanks once again for any input. Much appreciated.
Lynn

Tips for avoiding "noisy" images in low-light

Hi all,
I noticed that there are a lot of users here who are complaining of noisy images especially in low-light. I'm not a professional photographer or anything but I have been playing a lot with the camera of my Xperia Z1 and I did have noisy images also at first.
Here is my tip: Use these settings:
Go to Manual Mode.
Shoot in either 8MP 4:3 or 16:9 (don't worry about not making use of the 20MP, because its still doing oversampling to improve the quality of the 8MP image by making use of the whole 20MP sensor).
Set Stabilizer to off
ISO to Auto (if you prefer more detailed images, set ISO to a lower value but take note of the exposure of the image and that there is a chance of motion blur due to the longer shutter speed necessary to capture low light at low ISO)
WB Auto (or your preference).
With the setting I use above, I've seen improvements on low-light capability (indoors, artificial lighting, or night outdoor scene for example) and quality of my camera pictures. Note though that this will not be applicable for extreme low-light. Its very normal to capture really noisy images when shooting in extreme low-light (even my dedicated compact camera has troubles too).
Here is my theory why its taking noisy images by default. In Superior Auto, I analyzed the EXIF data of the pictures I've shot. It seems that Superior Auto is really excessive in bumping up the ISO (thus resulting in more noisy images) to compensate for having a faster shutter speed (reduced motion blur). Thus what you get is a noisy image that is bright and freezes the motion. For example, test it out that in Superior Auto, even minute movements of the phone will trigger the Sports Mode (running man icon near the button) prioritizing a faster shutter speed at the cost of a higher ISO.
Another reason I have for turning off the Stabilizer in Manual Mode is the same. In contrast to Steady Shot used in recording movies (sensor based shift to compensate for handshake movements), I think the Stabilizer option basically just bumps up the ISO also to compensate for handshake movements. I"m not entirely 100% sure but so far, I've been satisfied with taking images with the Stabilizer Off.
Please feel free to test it out and report the results if there have been improvements. I'm still testing it out too! One of the things I wish for Sony to put in the Camera App are just these 3 things:
1.) Holding Shutter Key will open the Camera app with the LAST CONFIGURED SETTINGS
2.) Maximum ISO can be set in Manual Mode
3.) Scene AUTO mode for Manual Mode (I know it might be redundant but it would be nice to have Auto mode for 4:3 orientation images).
Again, hope to hear from others what are their settings or if they notice any improvements in images captured.
Thanks!

Hi, there is a FAQ related to this topic.
http://talk.sonymobile.com/t5/FAQ/Capture-better-photos-in-low-light-conditions/m-p/395397#U395397
Don't forget to mark correct answer as Accepted Solution.
If you find the post helpful, press Kudos.

How to keep display on in low light for windows 8 installed on macbook pro retina display

I am using macbook pro retina display 15". The Screen switches off in Windows 8 in low light conditions.
How do i resolve this issue?

Hi,
Thanks for the reply,
But I already knew how to manage GPO of a remote computer via MMC, which I have even explained about it in my query.
I'm looking for the possibilities and methods of using GPMC to Manage GPO of a remote computer.

Nokia Lumia 925 with Black update - When low light...

The ambient light sensor doesn't seem to be correctly used in low light conditions.
In low light, with the phone "locked", just push the middle unlock button. The screen show the usual unlock screen, but at high brightness, for what seems to be a variable time (every time I do this), but not longer than 100-200 ms. Then the ambient light sensor starts to work, and reduces the display brightness.
This has only started since the black update. My Lumia 925 was working fine before, and now this display brightness problem has started. It only happens in low light conditions. If there is enough light (eg. daylight), the screen doesn't start with max brightness to begin with.
It doesn't matter if I'm using "glance" either. With this feature turned on or off, in low light conditions, this problem is the same.
I am now not using glance (I wasn't really using it before the update anyway), and I've set my screen brightness to a set value as a workaround.
OS version 8.0.10517.150
Frimware: 3051.40000.1345.1001
Hardware: 0.5.6.1
Radio: 3.2.04047.1
SOC: 8960
Solved!
Go to Solution.

So I've played with my phone more ... and I don't think there is a big problem. If I move to a room that is darker, and wait a few seconds, the phone unlock screen isn't bright when I hit the unlock button. It seems the phone now needs longer time to get used to the light conditions it is in.
Maybe the Lumia was always like this, or maybe the ambient light sensor has a slower response time now, and isn't polled as often for its reading, like it was before. More likely is that as I have been playing with the glance screen, I've been locking and unlocking quickly, while walking around. The phone hasn't had enough time to update the ambient light settings.
Interestingly, with the glance set to interval, I can still wake up the interval screen when placing my hands on the screen. I had left my phone for sometime on its own, then I lifted it up. Either my fingers or the movement triggered the glance screen to turn on. Or its has a timer as such, and just happened to turn on at this point in time ! Who knows (well I'll search for more info about the new glance settings now).
So it looks like there is no problem. Either its always been like this, and I'm testing the ambient sensor polling to the limits by pressing the unlock button often. Or the polling rate has been reduced (maybe to help increase battery life).

Screen flickering in low light

Just wondering if any one is noticing the iPad screen flickering in low light?
I notice it mainly on a white page like apple.com nothing too major but enough to make me notice and wonder if it is just mine or a wide spread problem.

HI,
Try Resetting your iPad. Press and hold the Sleep/Wake button and the Home button at the same time for at least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
If that doesn't help and it persists, take it back for a replacement. It should not do that regardless of ambient lighting.
Carolyn

Trouble with low light action shots on 70d

I just went from a T3i to a 70D. I seem to have trouble with action shots in low light situations, any suggestions on setting...
Solved!
Go to Solution.

"I just went from a T3i to a 70D"
... and didn't upgrade your lens inventory? Although the 70D will be better in most cases compared to a Rebel T3i, it is the lens. It is always the lens.
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

Why is the keyboard brightness of my new macbook pro retina is behaving in an opposite manner in low light

I racently bought a 13'' macbook pro with retina display (late 2013) and everything works fine with the exeption of the keyboard brightness. when I chose the adjust function in low light it suppose to increase the brightness of the keyboard during dim light, however, it's doing quite the opposite and the brightness is dicreasing making it harder to see the letters, how can I fix this problem?

Hi BobRz, you are probably talking about the screen display which normaly dims during low light conditions, and that's true. but my concern is the keyboard brightness, it suppose to increase in low light conditions, but instead it dims to the point that i can no longer see the letters on the keyboard. I have viewed a youtube video about the normal adustment function, and mine is doing the opposite

Correcting for low lighting using FCP

Hi,
I am trying to correct for low lighting conditions of a some scenes I shot using an XL2 MiniDV Camera. Any suggestions? The scenes were shot in 24P 16:9 at 1/48.
Best,
Gary

for what it's worth, i've had pretty satisfactory results with a combination of Shadow Highlight from Lyric Media...
(FREE at - http://www.lyric.com/fcp-plugins/index.htm#shadow)...
...and then rescue the grainy blacks with Black Restore from Too Much Too Soon...
(FREE at - http://www.mattias.nu/plugins/)...
Just my input.

Watching movie on 780p on a 1080p tv has some color issues in low light? any solutions?

While watching a movie from Apple TV on my 1080p television, there is some "blooming" in low light. Is that just an issue with the 780p resolution or maybe a wi-fi issue, or with my TV?

Just to let you know that I fooled around with the soft focus effect tonight. I took one of the worst clips (15 seconds) and copied it 8 times into the timeline and then did different settings on the soft focus panel and then burned it. It really didn't take much time. Results were encouraging and though the most blurry one had no flickering, I should be able to find some compromise here that will wrok for me. Thanks so much for the help.

Settings Suggestions (Low Light Performance)

For about a month once I year I do some photography work, primarily portrait type photos, (at a local amusement park for their halloween event) so everything is done typically at dusk and after dark under a lot of special effects lighting. For the last couple years I used my Canon Rebel T3 with a Canon 50mm 1.8 lens, recently I aquired the 1.4 version. After getting the 1.4 I'm considering using my Canon 50D as well for this years run. I'm just seeking advice on how to achieve less noise perhaps? For both bodies? Rebel seems noisy in low light sometimes, I've managed some nice results last year with the help of a external flash on it but I don't like blinding my coworkers working the event... so there's a bit of work going into my photos post production sort to speak before sharing the images. I never been to sure as to what settings to use, I primarily just shoot in either TV or AV mode. It would be an all new experience for my 50D as I usually take it to my local zoos to take pics because I use my 28-300mm lens on it, so any advice is appreciated!
I am considering buying a 6D, or a Nikon in the future but for now I'm just settling with what I got.

If money were no object, a 1Dx and a Canon EF 50mm f1. But seriously buying a 6D, or a brand-N, is not going to help.
At least not much more than what you already have. BTW, the 50mm f1.4 you did aquire is only 1/2 stop faster than the 50mm f1.8 you already had. Not a deal maker!
I love shooting at night and at dusk. You can get some truely interesting photographs. My best advice is shoot. Yes, shoot a lot. Because experience is the best teacher. No body here can tell you what settings to use. They have not seen the venue!
Sometimes Tv will work and sometimes Av will. Even P will at times. I would avise you to stay away from the 'fully automatic' choices, however. The best advise is learn your equipment. Go to the Mall and shoot. Go to a park. Try the Zoo after dark. Any place to get the experience. But shoot!
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

6D low light video

Hello,
I'm trying to shoot video in low light and I'm getting some extra hue and contrast. When I shoot stills, what I see on the screen is what I see on my computer. When I flip over to video (with out changing ISO or WB settings) the images are darker and have a green hue.
I need what I'm seeing on the screen of the camera to be what I see on my computer monitor after I download of the card.
Any ideas?
Current setting: Exp 1/30, ISO 8000, WB 3200, f-stop 2.8
What I've tried: IPB and All-I compression, different SD cards rated for different speeds, formatting the card with the camera, and shrinking still images to 1920X1280 - Same results ever case

RobertTheFat wrote:
Skirball wrote:
I don't know about you, but my stills (RAW) are always darker than they are on my camera (6D); which is a jpg and might be part of the source. It wasn't near as noticable on my 450D. I just learned to adapt my eye and I check my histogram anyway. But I'd say the actual image looks about a 1/2 stop darker on my computer than the camera. I don't think it's abnormal to have small differences between the camera screen and computer. THere are too many variables to deal with to be consistent.
The most obvious explanation for that phenomenon (which means that you've probably already considered it and ruled it out) is that you've turned up the brightness of the camera's display screen. That setting is independent of all else, and it's easy to turn it up when the ambient light is high and then later forget that you did it. And maybe you didn't have the screen turned up as high on your 450D.
Also, of course, even a RAW image gets darker if subjected to any white balance correction (because that correction can only subtract, not add, light). I'd expect the screen to display the corrected image, but conceivably it doesn't.
Yes, that was the first thing that crossed my mind, but not just that the setting was turned up, but that the display is simply brighter. Although my old 450D seemed to be closer to the actual exposure it was terrible in the shadows. Things would look black on the camera but I'd still have detail on the actual photo.
I didn't bother looking for a brightness setting on my 6D for several reasons. 1) the brightness is really nice when you're out in bright sunlight; 2) I recognize there are far too many variables to expect any consistency between a small jpg with settings applied on a 3" backlit LCD to a full sized RAW file on a calibrated IPS monitor in a dim room; 3) I check my historgram constantly, I never trust what I see on the image, it's just a preview to get you in the ballpark; and 4) the IQ and recovery on the 6D is so good that I know if the image looks decent on the camera then I'll be able to make it work in post.

920 in low light.

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