970A-G46 CPU Compatability?

I want to upgrade to the AMD FX 9370 but do not see it listed as being compatible? I'm wondering if the compatability page is current?

Quote from: MDecker2 on 10-August-14, 00:58:49
I want to upgrade to the AMD FX 9370 but do not see it listed as being compatible? I'm wondering if the compatability page is current?
I have been in AMD's corner since 1999 (Intel has never really given me sufficient motivation to go back to them), and I really would advise you to stay away from these monstrously over-volted FX-9xxx cpus (which are horrifically over-volted & custom-cooled FX-8xxx's, anyway!) It's not worth it! I'm running the G46-970a mboard with an FX-6300 @ 4.5GHz on air, stock cooler, stock voltage--I did briefly up the voltage by .0025v (very small) and squeezed a bit more out of it--but really, it was sort of dumb and I just went back to the highest clock I could obtain under completely stock conditions. Rare is the game you will run that will ever use more than four cores (I'm not sure of any IIRC), but if you want 8 cores then try the 970 AM3+ Gamer's mboard* (new product) with a standard FX-8xxx cpu--you should get within spitting distance of 9370's clock with *stock* components and conditions--and run a better, leaner, meaner, cooler system to boot; a system likely to run like a top and cause you no difficulties at all. By contrast, FX-9xxx systems are power hogs and massive heat producers (that need water cooling, bigger PSUs, fans, and more--all for very little gain.)
Even if you want water-cooling, go with the 970 Gamer* & either an FX-6xxx or FX-8xxx, and get the same results for a good deal less money and a lot less headache. It's my opinion, of course, but I do think it is good advice. Plow the money you save into more ram or a better gpu or an SSD etc.
*[Advice on the 970Gamer is provisional, based on its suitability for an 125W FX-8xxx which at the moment is thought to be supported, whereas the G46-970a (a great mboard which I've had for awhile now) isn't recommended for 125W cpu support for various good reasons.]

Similar Messages

Msi 970a-g46 gives high voltage to cpu

my 970a-g46 cpu voltage for fx 6300 on bios settings is auto and system is not overlocked yet. but cpu voltage rise up to 1.47 v. is that high for 3.5 ghz stock speed. i cant understand why it is so high. what should i do

Quote from: WaltC on 15-July-13, 04:23:17
I have the same motherboard and cpu. It depends on which program you use to check voltage, I think. MSI Control Center says it's about 1.47v, but recall that the voltage doesn't change when the cpu turbos on up to ~4.1-4.2GHz, so 1.47v is probably about right. However, AMD Overdrive software reports the cpu VID @ 1.375v @4.2GHz. So I'm not exactly sure what MSI's software is looking at--but I don't think it's anything to worry about. According to Control Center my chip runs fine @4.515GHz @ 1.48v (just a slight nudge up on my part--makes very little difference thermally, and I'm running stock AMD cooling at the moment.) I have no complaints.
Walt, how are you able to run at 1.48v on the G46? I have the same board, and I keep reading all these posts about how this board can't handle a thermal load that high and how these boards just fry. People scared me into lowering my overclock, and I was only running at 1.41v.

MSI 970A-G46 help.

I just built my first PC and it won't boot up. The I can hear the PSU running but the a light called LED 1 flashes and then nothing else happens. Ive checked and rechecked the cables and haven't found anything messed up. The RAM and CPU are installed correctly. Could the Hard drive possibly be the problem? Please help i really want my pc to work.
Specs:
Mother Board: MSI 970A-G46
CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 955 3.2ghx Quad-Core.
GPU: MSI HD R5450
Hard Drive 1tb Sata.
PSU: 600 watt Thermaltake.
RAM: 2 sticks of 4gb Corsair.

I recently got same motherboard. When it is running normal you will have four small blue LED lights that stay lighted. I had issue where over clock would not disengage and or engage. And only one blue LED indicator light was on. And no matter what it would not restart; with reset, hard shutdown.
SOLUTION by Bumper: Simple CMOS manual reset on motherboard, restart and press F2 [At this point motherboard bios has been reset to default settings.]
If it turns out you still have a problem; search Amazon for simple cheap testers to test mainboard, PSU, etc. Chances are if you see lights the PSU is OK.

MSI 970A-G46+AMD FX-6300 cpu/nb frequency

Hello, i have MSI 970A-G46+AMD FX-6300, i can change cpu/nb frequency, i change it in bios but it stay at default values, when i change 6300 to 720BE cpu/nb change work fine, sorry for my english, i'm from the ukraine
p.s. bios 2.6

Check here https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=176110.0, same thing happens to 990FXA-GD80 and my 990FXA-GD65 too.
It has been reported to MSI customer support but not any specific solution yet.

MSI 970a-g46 motherboard starts up but doesn't display anything.

Hello, I'm having problems with a new motherboard I got from Amazon, specifically the 970a-g46. The following are my specs in use with this motherboard:
CPU: AMD Phenom 2 x4 965
GPU: nVidia GeForce 560 GTX
Ram: 8gb Kingston HyperX Fury 1866mhz.
PSU: Corsair 650TX (650 Watts)
Compatability-wise, everything checks out so I wasn't expecting problems at first. All the other parts excluding the ram I've used before. Here's exactly what happens:
I power up the computer after everything is installed and connected. The 4 phase LEDs turn on which tell me the CPU is powered up and working (so I assume). I don't get any beeps or buzzs mainly because I don't see any speaker/buzzer on this board. The monitor blinks and while it is connected to my GPU, it doesn't display anything, it's just a black screen. I can leave it on for a few minutes and I'll still not see anything happen. An important observation here is that my keyboard which has LEDs will turn on after a short period of time in boot-up (with my older set-up that is). This does not happen ever regardless of how long I leave my computer on on this new mobo.
I've gone over and checked/tested numerous things:
* The PCI-E and ATX cables for the GPU, motherboard and CPU are all connected and secured (I've tried both 4-pin and 8-pin connections for the CPU, neither help).
* I've tried jumping the CMOS multiple times to no avail.
* I tested the ram on another computer and it worked just fine on that one.
* I've tested the motherboard without a GPU and it still does nothing (though I think that's because this motherboard doesnt have its own integrated GPU for some reason).
So far the only possible reasons why my computer is not working is because of my PSU (very unlikely as it's only a year old and it's a Corsair, which I've heard is very reliable in the long-run), GPU (It is quite a few years old but even without the GPU my computer still doesn't go past boot-up), CPU (possible due to its age and how many freaking time I've reseated it (probably around 8 times) so I wouldn't doubt it, but before I put it into this motherboard I did check its pins and they were all there and placed nice and smoothly into the socket.) and finally the motherboard (it's possible that this is just a defected motherboard and giving me a super hard time which would be a first in all the years I"ve spent computer building).
The best case scenario of course is me giving some kind of oversight to how I transferred over the parts and connectors. I might've missed something obvious to please any advice/insight on how I can solve this problem would be greatly appreciated
EDIT: Some other things I did but forgot to mention:
* Checked ground nut things and ensured they matched the specifications of the motherboard ATX; only 6 are under the board and each one is aligned up with the holes on the board as designed.
* Tried booting up without powering the CPU. Only one phase LED light came on, still the same problem (for an obvious reason this time now).
* Re-seated GPU multiple times, re-connected cables multiple times.
What I have NOT done is re-seat the CPU because I am almost out of acetone so I would need to get another supply of that which won't be until tomorrow. I also have not re-seated everything back on my older motherboard to check if it still works. Tomorrow I'll most likely do that and if I find that the old motherboard works flawlessly then that tells me that the new motherboard I got is either defected or there's some compatability issue I"m missed out on.
EDIT 2: Just found a speaker and plugged it into the motherboard. Booted it up and I got no beeps whatsoever. So this mobo is giving me no video activity (there is a signal it's just blank), and no beeps from the motherboard. I have no idea what that could mean at this point.
EDIT 3: I decided to test a few things with the new speaker I just got. First I removed ram and tried running, I got 3 beeps which I assume is the beep sequence of faulty/no ram. Removed the power to CPU and the GPU itself individually, gave no beeps this time.

Quote from: rhradacut on 06-January-15, 16:49:14
What's the serial number of your MB? Needed to determine what BIOS may be on the MB. Exactly which version of the CPU is it? There were several different 965 CPUs and they required different BIOS versions, 1.2, 1.9,2.2 depending on which CPU you actually have.
Also another problem may be that native memory supported by your CPU is DDR3-1333, not 1866
None of the supported CPUs have integrated graphics, any MB graphics would be in the chipset, not CPU. Examples would be 785G, 880G
Thank you very much rhradacut! The problem was that the mobo for whatever reason was forcing 1866mhz on my CPU when it only supported up to 1600mhz. I had to install a spare ddr3 module to downclock it so that I could access the BIOS and manually set the DRAM timing to 1600mhz for it to work. That's a very strange problem that I figured would've been auto-resolved by the hardware, and would also be a big problem if I didn't have any spare DDR3 ram to work with.
Once again thanks for helping out on solving my problem.

970A-G46 board, no video, memory issue?

hello,
I see a lot of people have the same issue i am about to describe, but the only thing that remains is a question of memory compatibility. I just purchased:
970A-G46
AMD FX-8320
Corsair CX500M 500 Watt Power Supply
I had some no name DDR3 from another box that i planned on using. When i put everything together, all i had connected was the power, the CPU, 4 x 4G DDR3, and an old video card. All the fans came on, but no video, no single post beep. I removed the RAM, then i got 3 beeps, so i am assuming that power and CPU are fine. I replaced the video card with one from my desktop to see if that was the problem. same behavior. so i took 1 stick of the PNY DDR3 from my desktop, and see if that was the problem. Same behavior. Cleared the CMOS several. Same behavior.
Now, i am not an expert in this, but could it be the mobo is that sensitive to memory that my problem can be incompatibility with the memory? again, i am not an expert, but this is the first time i have ran into this. And before i spend ~$160 on 2 x 8G DDR3 that someone suggested in a post, i want to be sure that indeed sounds like it could be the solution to my problem.
thank you very much for taking the time to read this...

Quote from: neothecat on 16-February-14, 08:54:09
I just checked, and i it's 38A. The power supply has additional cables for adding extra power for PCI-E devices, but the motherboard has no where to plug them in (i hope that makes sense...) Instead of trying to get this to work with this motherboard, would you recommend just sucking it up and getting a new one, perhaps one that better supports the FX 8-core chip? Or is this sound like a power supply issue? I went to the newegg site to calculate my PSU needs, and it said i needed 415W, but there seems to be more then just pure wattage that needs to be considered...
I did try one thing. I took out the video card, put a stick of memory in, and i get one beep and two short beeps, which indicates a monitor problem. to me hardware noob brain, it sounds like a need a more powerful PSU. but i figured i would ask those who know what they are doing before i run around buying new stuff if i do not need it...
thank you very much...
Don't worry about the PCIe cables and so on as they're designed to plug directly into your PCIe devices, like your gpus, for instance, with their own 6-8-pin connectors.
I mentioned the 12v rail amperage as that is particularly relevant for cpus these days, especially multi-core cpus. Even though my own PSU (Corsair as well) is only 100W more output than your present one, I'm still getting 49a on the 12v rail--which is ~11 amps > than what your 500W Corsair puts out, which could certainly make a difference. Have you tried entering the UEFI to set your cpu to run on 4-6 cores, just to check out that possibility? *Can* you even get into the UEFI at the moment? (probably not, I guess.)
Like durquavian, I wouldn't ordinarily think this would definitely be *the* problem, but it's a possibility that needs to be ruled out. There are just so *many* little gotcha's that could cause your problems, from incompatible ram, to weak/defective PSUs--even to something as weird as accidentally somehow managing to not seat your cpu properly--long years ago I scared myself once when I had assembled everything and when I turned on the power, mboard lights lit up, fans turned--but no boot! Natch-of course--my cpu was the last thing I reseated, and the cpu reseating solved the problem.... (Obviously, I've never forgotten that incident.)
But if you haven't already done so--reseat your cpu and double-check the fan mount, etc. Luck!

Windows 8 64-bit install on 970a-g46 Mainboard AHCI and NVIDIA DRIVER issues

My Box:
MSI 970A-G46
BIOS 1.9 (AUG 2012) (Tried 1.11 but the nightmare started then)
AMD FX-6100 (STOCK SPEED AND SETTINGS) WITH OEM HSF
16GB PATRIOT VIPER 3 (1866) RUNNING @ (1600)
USED an EVGA 9800GT 1ST AND UPGRADED TO NVIDIA REFERENCE CARD GTX 550 Ti (1GB) WITH SAME ISSUES
90gb MonsterDigital Daytona SATA III SSD DRIVE (OS and minimal programs)
Antec HE 550
I am at a point of pulling my hair out. I decided to upgrade my system to enhance Diablo III game play. I got a combo deal on the mainboard and cpu, and thought the speed of the game caching on a SSD would also help. The first attempt which took a little struggle was Vista 64-bit. Eventually, I was able to get the OS to work with me, and it was smooth. Since M$ decided to offer the Windows 8 Pro upgrade for only $39.99, I thought, what do I had to lose. Well….lots of time. Now, I am not a newbie, though SSD drives haven’t been more than an interesting thought. So yes, I read many guides on everything from Trim enabled Win 7 and 8, and many other do’s and don’ts. What is driving me to the Netherlands of hell, is the installation and how buggy it has been. It boils down to drivers for the IDE/SATA/AHCI CONTROLLER. First, even thought it “sees” the SSD on installation drive selection, after pulling the USB installation drive, the system forgets it, and there is a “problem with the boot sector”. If you load the driver from the AMD site, it lets the install occur “fine”, but there is an issue with that driver which causes an irq conflict which leads to D3 audio issues and freeze ups. I did finally get things in order (not sure which driver I choose for that), and things were smooth, except I tried to install the GTX 550 ti and that led to a corrupt file error, which the system runs a check disk and cycles the “preparing to repair” and “diagnosing PC” a few times and never allows me to enter SAFE MODE (shift+f8), to disable the NVIDIA driver that is buggy, and doesn’t allow for the NVIDIA Control Panel to install without losing video, and starts the repair cycles again… Leading to ANOTHER RE-INSTALL...
My question, for the Windows 8 Pro installation on the 970a-G46 mainboard and then after install is complete, which driver is the correct choice for the AHCI/SATA Controller? All I find is Win7 64-bit AHCI inf’s, and SB7XX 64-bit inf’s (no SB950 INF). The Driver disk which came with the mainboard is very dated pre Win 8 stuff, ASMEDIA X106 which are not recognized by the OS as written for Win 8. AMD’s latest drivers are the ones causing the IRQ type lags and corruption.
What version, build and type of Windows 8 installations have you used on this mainboard, and what drivers allowed you install it without the above conflicts? Your input may decrease my insanity… So, thank you in advance…

Quote from: m0r9h3u5 on 28-January-13, 12:11:16
I understand what you are telling me, only the generic drivers deliver subpar results. What is the point of running those drivers instead of windows 8 certified drivers written for said devices. My last install is functioning better, but still windows update fails every attempt, the apps i install (ie. weather bug) on the start screen wont load... to me windows 8 is a big fail....but that is just my view...
OK...I also own the 970a G46, and my upgrade experience from Win7 x64 AHCI to Win8 x64 AHCI was flawless the first time. No problems at all. You are running an AMD chipset board with a nVidia gpu, which means that your chipset drivers are not automatically updated with every gpu driver update you do--this would happen automatically if you owned an AMD gpu because AMD includes them in its gpu driver install packages. But--all you have to do to get the proper drivers for your motherboard is go here and download them. You only need the *chipset drivers* from this page--you do not need the RAID drivers, of course. That's it. It's no big deal, and back in the days when nVidia was making motherboard chipsets you had to separately download both the motherboard chipset drivers from nVidia and the AMD gpu drivers from AMD if you did not also own a nVidia gpu.
From your description of your problems it sounds like your installation of Win8 is hosed and you need to format C:\ and clean install from scratch, anyway, so...
A note about AHCI--the *ideal* way to install the AHCI drivers is prior to installing your OS for the first time, you enter the UEFI and set "AHCI" in the appropriate place, instead of IDE, and *then* you reboot from DVD and install your OS which will automatically install the correct AHCI driver from Windows. After the driver installation is complete you should then install the updated 970a drivers from AMD as linked above.
However, it is actually very easy to activate and install AHCI *after* you have installed Windows in normal IDE mode:
To enable AHCI in existing Windows 8 IDE Installation's
Caution: Do NOT enable AHCI in UEFI prior to making the following changes in your Registry! If you had AHCI enabled alreadyin UEFI, disable it first and restart your computer!
Use WinKey + R and type Regedit in the command line and hit the Enter key, this will open the Registration Editor.
Go to:
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE/SYSTEM/CurrentControlSet/services/iaStorV
right click on Start, select Modify and set Data Value to 0
Close Registration Editor and restart computer.
While booting, open the UEFI Page and set the SATA Mode to AHCI from IDE
Save UEFI settings and restart.
Windows will now install the AHCI drivers automatically and they should work without issues.
In order to avoid installation problems just like you have been experiencing, here is what I would do in your shoes:
1) Set UEFI for normal IDE drive mode
2) Reboot into IDE mode and install your OS
3) After you have finished with the installation, you should be having no troubles in IDE mode. Then go to the instructions above on how to properly enable AHCI *after* you have installed Windows 8 in normal IDE mode.
4) After everything is coming up roses in AHCI mode and you are having no problems, then install the AMD chipset drivers as linked above and you are golden.
Those 4 steps worked perfectly for me the first time (the first time I got them right, that is...).
There's nothing wrong with Win8--this is strictly operator error caused by insufficient research into what AHCI is and how to properly enable it. The Internet has some bad info on Win8 registry settings for AHCI because of the developer preview and the consumer preview versions of Win8 that Microsoft released to the public prior to the final shipping build--many "instructions" for Win8 are therefore not valid for the shipping version of Win8. At first I made some of the same goofs that you did, but now you get to benefit from my hard-won experience... Good luck! Should work like a charm. And, registry AHCI is done differently in Win8 than it is done in Win7 or Vista. Also, the registry settings relative to AHCI in Windows 8 for AMD are different from the registry values that must be changed for an Intel controller.
Parenthetically, My FX-6300 (Vishera) will be here in a couple of days! Yeah!

3 doa 970a-g46

Alright i pieced a computer from new egg. I have a amd 8150 processor, 8 gigs of ram (2 4 gig sticks), a xfx 7870 black edition, a lian case, 650 watt power supply and a 970a-g46 motherboard. Hooked it all up (2 months ago) and nothing worked. Sent the motherboard back and recieved two more and both were doa. If i set the 24 pin connector in it no fans or anything will come on. If i barely touch the end closest to the pcie slot barely in the 24 pin slot, the motherboard light will blink, my cpu fan and psu fan will come on. I have tested two different psus on it and same thing with each motherboard they sent. Idk what to do im tired of waiting for my computer to be running. Any ideas?

Fixed it. I feel so stupid. I didnt have the power switch plugged in correctly. Went through plugged everything in, ziptied the wires away and whabam, got bios. So now im installing windows 7 (very slowly) and away I go. So if anyone has this same problem before spending 2 months wasting time and money sending back mobos, think simple stupid. Then if not then yeah it might be a while before you get your computer running. I appreciate the help guys. Also my cpu was running at 48 degrees which seems awfully high to me?

970A-G46

I bought this board for my build and planned to run an FX-4350 4.2 GHz CPU, let my brother use it to get his up and running with his FX-8120, then did a little research finding that this is a very light board for 125W CPU's.
My question is, will dropping to a 95W CPU such as the FX-4300 or FX-6300 solve the issue for this board as far as voltage goes, or will it still max out the voltage and cause issues if the cooling isn't more than adequate.
Also what CPU would be recommended for this board, regardless of wattage or voltage, I'm fine running a CPU stock but if there's room for overclocking then it's a bonus. For this build i will be running a Cooler Master Seidon 120XL CPU Cooler, so that temps won't be an issue.
If this doesn't work I do have a build idea that I would like someone to look over, as this is my first custom build.

Quote from: Shadowscreed on 27-September-13, 04:09:16
If I do OC the CPU then I can cross reference the voltage with wattage and should be able to keep it under 125W
Board is excellent for an FX-6300. Mine runs flawlessly @ ~4.5 GHz on stock voltage. I also run Cool 'n Quiet as there is absolutely no point in running a cpu flat out when I'm web browsing... CnQ works extremely well--when you need the power it seamlessly comes in instantly for as long as you need it.
If your goal, however, goes beyond stock voltages and you really want to push your cpu electrically to the max, get a more costly board. If you are content with what you can get with stock voltages or very close to stock, the combo of the FX-6300 and the 970a-G46 is nearly ideal. Very satisfied with mine.

Help: new MSI 970a-g46 not booting.

hello.
i searched this forum before posting but couldn't find a solution that worked, so i thought i'd post my issue and see if y'all could help. basically, after installing the mobo and all the parts, powering on the machine does nothing but spin the fans and illuminate phase 1 CPU light for a split second. then nothing. no beeps, no further activity.
i just purchased brand new:
MSI 970A-G46
AMD FX 8-Core
Ballistix 4GB DDR3 PC3-12800 (1 stick)
Diablotek EVO ATX midtower.
and i'm using these my old parts:
Themaltake Purepower 500 ATX 12V 2.0
Gigabyte G Force 8 Series (GV-NX86S256H) graphics card
an IDE PCI card (where my 160gb maxtor with the OS connects)
two SATA drives seagate 500GB and a WD 2TB
up untill i shut down my old system to build this one, everything was working fine.
after reading the forum, i've tried moving my RAM from slot 2 to each other slot. trying to boot each time had same result.
i tried to reseat the CPU chip, but went no further than taking the fan off and making sure the CPU pins were not visible. then pushed down on the fan with some force while i put it back. trying to boot had the same result.
i've tried to clear the CMOS, but honestly not sure if i did it right. moved the jumper over, then waited a bit and moved it back. tried booting after that, same result.
i'm hoping someone has a quick fix that might keep me from pulling the mobo back out and starting again.
(side question: if i do have to start again, do i need more heatsync themal goo or will the stuff already on the CPU still work since it's never turned on?)
thanks in advance for any help. if i can provide more info on my setup, please let me know.
this is my first build all on my own and it's having predictable results.

i searched and found i made a real rookie mistake. :(
Quote
2. Did you plug in the 4/8-pin CPU power connector located near the CPU socket? If the motherboard has 8 pins and your PSU only has 4 pins, you can use the 4-pin connector. The 4-pin connector USUALLY goes on the 4 pins located closest to the CPU. If the motherboard has an 8-pin connector with a cover over 4 pins, you can remove the cover and use an 8-pin plug if your power supply has one. This power connector provides power to the CPU. Your system has no chance of posting without this connector plugged in! Check your motherboard owners manual for more information about the CPU power connector. The CPU power connector is usually referred to as the "12v ATX" connector in the owners manual. This is easily the most common new-builder mistake.
from http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-post-boot-video-problems
wow. plugged in the 4 pin cpu power and it booted into bios. so thanks for the help and for listening.
signed,
an embarrassed n00b.

MSI 970A-G46 : No Sound

Just bought a new 970A-G46 board. I've updated all the realtek drivers, uninstalled them re-installed them. I've double and triple checked the both the front panel and rear connections. I've reinstalled windows and then reinstalled the drivers and I cannot get any sound out of my speakers or headphones on either jack (front and rear). The device manager is saying that the device is working properly but it is not recognizing any speakers being plugged in. I've also made sure that everything was enabled in the bios and I have reset the CMOS once. I can't decide if its a bad board or if there is something else I am missing. Any help would be much appreciated.
Also, I have tried drivers that came with the board, from MSI's website, and from realtek's website.
Mainboard: MSI 970A-46
CPU: AMD Phenom II 955 - HDZ955FBK4DGM
GPU: 920GT DDR3 1 GB
Power Supply: Corsair TX750W
RAM: 2 sticks of Kingston 4Gb - KHX1333C7D3K2
Hard Drives: 2 320Gb Seagate - ST3320820AS
Windows 7 Professional -- Fully updated

Quote from: pTrick on 19-August-13, 10:36:40
Just bought a new 970A-G46 board. I've updated all the realtek drivers, uninstalled them re-installed them. I've double and triple checked the both the front panel and rear connections. I've reinstalled windows and then reinstalled the drivers and I cannot get any sound out of my speakers or headphones on either jack (front and rear). The device manager is saying that the device is working properly but it is not recognizing any speakers being plugged in. I've also made sure that everything was enabled in the bios and I have reset the CMOS once. I can't decide if its a bad board or if there is something else I am missing. Any help would be much appreciated.
Also, I have tried drivers that came with the board, from MSI's website, and from realtek's website.
Mainboard: MSI 970A-46
CPU: AMD Phenom II 955 - HDZ955FBK4DGM
GPU: 920GT DDR3 1 GB
Power Supply: Corsair TX750W
RAM: 2 sticks of Kingston 4Gb - KHX1333C7D3K2
Hard Drives: 2 320Gb Seagate - ST3320820AS
Windows 7 Professional -- Fully updated
Same board, no problems...When you right-click the white Windows speaker icon in your systray--not the larger silver&black Realtek speaker icon! (which you ought to set up to show there always together with the realtek speaker icon), and you select "playback devices," what shows up? When the sound box appears with the "playback" tab open, you should see an entry for "Speakers- 2 Realtek high-definition audio Default device" and there should be a large green circle through it with a big checkmark--denoting its default sound-device status.
It's possible that somehow some other device has been selected as default--with the RealTek HD audio device turned off--so check that carefully. That would explain what you are reporting--driver installed and working properly, but simply disabled in the software.
Also, I generally find it a good idea to setup you rear speaker system first and make sure its working properly before you try and set up the front connections--do those second--That's the way I do it... (Always trying to stay ahead of a potential problem should one arise.)
Good luck! The 892 I've found to be quite good in all respects.

970A-G46, No boot

New to computers, got a kit from the parents containing:
Ultra LSP550 550-Watt Power Supply
Corsair Vengeance - 8gig(2x4gig) PC3-12800, DDR3-1600MHz, 9-9-9-24 CAS Latency, Intel XMP
EVGA GeForce GTX 550 Ti 01G-P3-1556-KR Video Card - 1GB
AMD FD8120FRGUBOX FX-8120 Processor - Eight Core
MSI 970A-G46 AMD 9 Series Motherboard - ATX
1TB WD Caviar Blue SATA 6GB/s 7200 RPM 32MB cache
Followed all the instilation guides after reading them and checking a couple boards to make sure it was being done correctly, as well as making sure I had one of the static bracelet things on.
Upon pressing the power button all I am getting is a CPU is in 1 Phase Power Mode, reading through the guides I cannot find what this means. As people say that 4 is good, I assume that the reason nothing else is turning on is that it is at 1.
Now, what would you reccomend I check?
I have reinstalled each item one at a time currently to no success. I do not have any other test parts to make sure that they are all working, but when I press the power button, there is a light inside the power supply that comes on for a second, as well as the light on the motherboard, so I belive they are currently in working condition.
Thank you for your time in advance, I'm new, take pity

Quote from: xmad on 31-July-12, 00:21:37
Let us know either way. Good luck!
wow I know the chances of Getting a DOA board is slim but wow im starting to see a pattern.
I have a question is your board a Micro atx

MSI 970A-G46 Woes

Hi Folks
Well to say I am disappointed with MSI is an understatement. A few months ago I bought an MSI 970A-G46 (MS-7693). It lasted for a month or so before the onboard NIC decided to vanish from my system. I got in touch with the reseller and arranged an RMA, after a 2-3 weeks away it was returned and I proceeded to refit it, as I was fitting the graphics card the PCI-E retainer thingy snapped off (and I'm always extremely careful doing builds, I've been doing them since the mid 90's). Okay I thought, it will work well without the springy thingy, so all was well (but I wan't too pleased about it, the "Military class" part(s) doesn't seem to extend to the plastic fixtures and fittings).
After having it back in my machine I get notice of a new BIOS (v2.5) which I'm advised to install (Windows 8), I've always been a nervous "flasher" but things have come a long way since the early dangers of installing a new BIOS and I've not had a failure yet. I read the instructions with all due diligence and set about flashing.... I would usually do it from within the UEFI BIOS itself, but I thought "What the hell? I'll do it via windows" All went well and the machine rebooted as it said it would, it then preceded to "flash" just exactly as it shows in the guide. After a few minutes I got a message along the lines of "BIOS Updated successfully" it then rebooted and guess what? Oh yeah! You're way ahead of me... it died completely and nothing I can do will bring it back. I've tried everything from replacing the CPU to removing the battery and moving the JBAT jumper numerous times, this is one dead board.
Now, are there any tips or tricks I can use with this board to bring it back to life short of ANOTHER RMA? I sincerely doubt it but I'm hoping that there's something I'm missing with the new generation of boards...? Any ideas?
If there is no advice worth giving me, I'm not bothering to RMA it again, it's been more trouble than it's worth (and all the expensive postage I keep having to spend to return it). I used to be a big fan of MSI since the early days but I doubt I shall buy another motherboard from them, this board has been nothing short of disastrous.
If anyone has any helpful insights I'd be only to pleased to read them... Thank you.... In advance,
Froobs :D

Yeah CW I get your point.
The fact is however, I got my replacement board (after the first RMA) directly from MSI, so any relevant information should have been included with the new board.
I shouldn't have to do "research", especially when the MSI software indicates it can update the BIOS for you. I wrongly assumed that if I followed MSI's instructions to the letter that I'd have no problems. More fool me!
This's the only flash that's ever failed and I've been flashing since the early days when it was done from floppy, hazardous times indeed!
Incidentally, the Gigabyte board I bought to replace the MSI had all the relevant information included in the box with regard to the flashing of the BIOS and I've done so without issue. I flashed my ASUS Sabertooth board too, also without issue.
My assumption now, is that the replacement board was a "lemon" and it has been consigned to history via the trash (recycling of course)
No more MSI for me I'm afraid (at least not motherboards, I have more faith in their graphics cards, oddly)
Anyway thanks for your reply
Froobs :D

MSI 970A-G46 Northbridge Overheats

Hello
My first MSI 970A-G46 stopped working perfectly one moment, and the next it was dead. Nothing responded, everything was doublechecked, PSU, CPU, RAM and I ended up returning the motherboard, recieving a new one just like it.
The new board has now been installed, and everything works as it should. After about 30 minutes of gameplay, the computer just went black. I thought "Thermal shutdown" as soon as it happened.
I booted again and checked all temps, everything seemed fine, CPU and Sys Temps were in the 40's Celcius.
I then felt the Northbridge with my fingers, and it is BURNING hot.
MSI 970A-G46
AMD Phenom II X4 Black Edition 3.2Ghz @ Stock speed
8GB Kingston HyperX @ Stock speed
GTS 450 @ Stock speed
1TB Samsung SATA
Why is the Northbridge burning hot? My old Mobo, same model, never did this. I never found out what killed it though.
Ive done my share of research before asking questions here, and I do find other people talking about burning hot Northbridges on this specific MOBO.
Thank you in advance

Quote from: Agent-Smith-TM on 10-February-14, 03:15:01
I agree, 60 is high for idle. I'll clock it back to default clocks. I doubt it's the cooler, I'm using a Zalman LQ-310 Cooler, Not sure if that names right, but it's something along the lines of that.
It's a liquid-cooling cooler.
What's your NB voltage? Has that been adjusted?
And, when you say "idle," are you talking about "idle" after you have fully booted, or "idle" when you're looking at the UEFI screen before you boot? I ask the question because a lot of people think that when they are in the bios/UEFI, pre-boot, that they are "idling" when actually the cpu is usually running flat out... Doesn't actually "idle" until after you've booted to your desktop for several reasons.

MSI 970A-G46 only POSTing with jumpers set to clear data.

My PC has this strange problem. On turning it on, the lights come on, the fans start whirring, but there is no video signal...
There are no beeps or anything..
Since this happened right after I installed a new HDD, I took it out..
But even then it did not work!
I tried clearing the CMOS by moving the jumper and it booted up...
But when I again tried with the jumper in the default position it stopped working!
Can any one tell me what's going on here??
My config:
MSI 970A-G46 motherboard
AMD 3.8Ghz FX 4130 CPU
Corsair Vengeance DDR3 8 GB (CMZ8GX3M1A1600C100)
Zotac GTX-550Ti 1GB
Corsair VS 450 watt power supply
WD Black 1TB HDD (this is the new one I installed)
I have 2 more HDDs which are ancient. Both of them are from Seagate. One is 20G and the other is 350G. I don't know their model no.

Quote from: shayan.roychoudhury.1 on 30-June-14, 01:08:35
My PC has this strange problem. On turning it on, the lights come on, the fans start whirring, but there is no video signal...
There are no beeps or anything..
Since this happened right after I installed a new HDD, I took it out..
But even then it did not work!
I tried clearing the CMOS by moving the jumper and it booted up...
But when I again tried with the jumper in the default position it stopped working!
Can any one tell me what's going on here??
My config:
MSI 970A-G46 motherboard
AMD 3.8Ghz FX 4130 CPU
Corsair Vengeance DDR3 8 GB (CMZ8GX3M1A1600C100)
Zotac GTX-550Ti 1GB
Corsair VS 450 watt power supply
WD Black 1TB HDD (this is the new one I installed)
I have 2 more HDDs which are ancient. Both of them are from Seagate. One is 20G and the other is 350G. I don't know their model no.
Check your leads from your PSU to your GPU (if it requires same--I'm not conversant with nVidia gpus)--and just for fun, switch it out with its twin. Reseat the gpu, carefully, etc. To that end, it looks like your PSU is possibly just barely adequate for your setup. What's your max amperage on the 12v rail?
But...sounds like a wiring short, somewhere--check all of your connections carefully, make sure there are no screws or washers, etc., loose that are underneath the motherboard and creating a short between mboard and the metal case cover (like accidentally dropping a screw when attaching the hard drive, etc.)
As well--check your jumpers on the HD and make sure those are OK (although I doubt that's the problem--years ago an improperly jumpered hard drive could keep the entre system from booting. These days that is rarely a problem, though, if ever.)
The fact that your system boots when your CMOS pins are jumpered a certain way--but not in the default position--indicates a short of some kind. If you find it and correct, you should have no permanent damage, imo. Good luck!

970A-G46 CPU Compatability?

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