A bit of fun w/ a spare MDD - Question re: fan power & grills

Since I purchased the second MDD and now have a spare case, I figure I have a nice safety net for playing with my first case modding (well unless you count painting the inside of an eMate...). Having just had our love for Tron reignited, I want something lit but streamlined looking.
One of the things I want to do is replace the front speaker above the optical drive with an LED Fan. I've seen the Unreal mod from years back that does this, but there are no specs included. Should I connect it to the motherboard via 2 pins or to the hard drive power cable via 3/4 pin adapter?
I was thinking I'd like to keep the fan opening petite at 60mm, but I haven't had much luck finding grill designs at that size (other than mudflap girls and batman logos). Does anyone know of a source where I can get one-off designs machined at reasonable rates online? I'd like to stick with polished metal and can only imagine what my own attempts to shape one would come out looking like.
I also plan to replace the PSU fans and perhaps the fan over the CPU, but those have plenty of relatively clear tutorials all over.
For the case, I haven't planned out anything too far yet. Maybe paint, maybe just dremel work and internal lighting. I think I saw templates somewhere for the case, so I'll doodle on those for a bit. Having a spare case means I can take my time, without depriving my husband of a working station.

Should I connect it to the motherboard via 2 pins or to the hard drive power cable via 3/4 pin adapter?
Safest would be the 4 pin Molex.
Clear case mod...
http://www.resourcefork.com/archive/WWWserver/techinfo/MDD_Case-Mod1/index.shtml
MDD G4 "Glow" Mod...
http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/systems/g4mirrored_drive_doors/MDD_Glowmod.html
No good idea where to have a grille made, but...
http://www.directron.com/60mmfangrill.html

Similar Messages

A bit of fun: Alias+

I use the console a lot. To remedy the tedium of remembering and typing long commands, 'alias' as an excellent tool. Unfortunately, and for good reason, shortcuts defined with 'alias' are not user-persistent. The usual solution is for users to maintain their own set of aliases in their .bashrc configuration. I think there's a better way.
Alias+ is a (very) simple bash script (two functions, in fact), that lives inside your .bashrc config, and maintains such a list for you.
== Key Features ==
- It's absolutely tiny, and is pure bash
- It's not fussy: It can live happily with whatever else you put in your .bashrc
- It's clean: It keeps track of its own entries with a tag at the end of each line
== Usage ==
There are three commands:
alias+, with no arguments, prints a usage guide and a list of active aliases
alias+, with two arguments, adds a new alias
alias-, with one argument, deletes the named alias
The first command also reloads aliases from the file. This is useful when you have more than one terminal open, and would like to propagate a new entry to other terminals.
== Installation ==
Step 1) Copy the alias+ script into your .bashrc file: (It ain't pretty, but it's compact)
alias+() {
if [ $# -eq 2 ]; then
echo "alias $1=\"$2\" #alias+" >> ~/.bashrc;
source ~/.bashrc;
else
source ~/.bashrc;
echo ""; echo "alias+: list shortcuts"; echo "alias+ x y: add shortcut"; echo "alias- x: delete a shortcut"; echo "";
grep "^alias " ~/.bashrc | grep "#alias+$" | sed "s/^alias /\x1B[1m/g;s/=\"/\x1B[0m => /g;s/\" #alias+$//g"; echo "";
fi
alias-() {
(cat ~/.bashrc | grep -v "^alias $1=") > ~/.bashrc.NEW;
mv ~/.bashrc.NEW ~/.bashrc;
unalias $1;
alias untar="tar -xf" #alias+
Step 2) Load the new config into any open terminals:
$ source ~/.bashrc
Step 3) Test it by running:
$ alias+
You should see a usage guide, and the included 'untar' alias.
You can give alias+ control of any existing aliases by adding ' #alias+' to the end of their respective lines.
Last edited by ryansuchocki (2012-10-28 15:54:20)

Nice. I'll now use a variation of this as a compliment to my 'realias' bash function (keeping my user's aliases in a separate file).
realias ()
unalias -a
$EDITOR ~/.bash_aliases
. ~/.bash_aliases
Aside: @ryansuchocki, it is easier to read scripts and code if you enclose the code segments with the BBCode tags '[⁣code]' and '[/⁣code]' – https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Fo … s_and_Code. You are able to edit your original post to add the tags.

MDD Dual 1.0GHz Power-up chime, NO BOOT or video after Kernel Panic

My MDD DP 1.0 (FW400) suffered a recent kernel panic on startup, and since then it has failed to boot...
It chimes and the power light stays on, fans run, but seems not to access the hard drive, and or power the DVD drives, USB/keyboard, or Video.
I Can't reach her via ARD either.
I have tried:
Reset PMU Power cord in.
Reset PMU Power cord out
Replaced the Battery,
Left battery out for 48hrs
Started up holding X key
Started up holding Space bar
etc. etc.
Any ideas? I really don't to loose this trusty old server.
Other details.
Hard Drives Are 2 month old Hitachi 7k250 have been tested as working in a D2 enclosure
Video Stock Radeon 9000 as new
PSU was replaced as part of the PSU replacement programme
Extra 1GB (2x512) Crucial installed when new.
Thanks In advance
Henrik

With care, you can manually open the optical drive tray. Pull open the outer door and use a good light to look at the front face of the drive beneath the hinged door. Somewhere there is a small hole, often under the tray, just slightly larger than a large paper clip's wire diameter.
Partially straighten a large paper clip and GENTLY insert the wire STRAIGHT into the hole. You should feel resistance after about 1/4 inch. Apply a little more pressure and the tray will start to move out. Grab it with your fingers and gently extend it all the way. I had to do this when I had the boot problems I mentioned.
Once you insert the System CD/DVD, push the tray closed and try to start, this time holding down the "C" key on your keyboard to force the computer to start from the optical drive.
BTW, be sure to check all internal cables for secure connections. As you're not even getting a gray screen, I'm getting a little concerned that your power supply has taken the long trail. When my MDD did the boot craziness, I at least got a gray screen.

MDD - anyone rebuilt the power supply?

Looking for any advice, etc. got a MDD from the garbage, great shape, no power & wouldn't boot as a result... no ram or hdd in it either. service tech told me it was a blown psu & were like $150-200 for a used one. so I got a stick of ram found a hard drive @ home & bought a std atx pc psu with an extender cable. rewired the extender cable & plugged it in... let my daughter (she's 4) push the power button & it took off running! installed 10.4 (the mac is for her ;)), seems to be stable & wakes up ok. used the wiring diagram from atxg4.com & since pulled apart the atx psu & put the guts in the MDD psu case. the old psu looks in ok save for the 4 blown capacitors - I've desoldered 3 of them... it's the ACbell model.
so any advice on rebuilding it? parts I need? local stores don't have the caps, they are a very narrow & tall size. coworker told me to check out digikey.com. has anyone else done it & have advice? parts list? what else to check out? thx.
oh, & who sells the replacement fans for the MDD psu?
Message was edited by: kmac1036

Vantec has some fans that work very well and are quieter than the originals:
http://www.vantecusa.com/gl/product/view_detail/116
Get some advice/info within badcaps.net:
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=8934

Forms [32 Bit] Version 10.1.2.0.2 question

In our database we have a field defined as NUMBER(8,3). In the form the field is defined with a Data Type of Number and has a format mask of 99,999.999 with no Lowest or Highest allowed value limitations. When I try to enter a value that has three decimal places (for example, 0.018), I get the FRM-40209 error that the field must be in the form 999G999G999D99. And if I insert a value with 3 decmal places directly into the database, on the form it gets rounded up to 2 decimal places. I don't have any code in the form that is enforcing this error, and I can't find anything else that would be doing this.

I added your message to the already existing on-error trigger in the form, and it shows the field I'm trying to enter the data into.*You didn't say exactly: What format mask does the On-error message I gave you report?
In the form, the field has the format mask of 99,999.999 and the error says the format mask is 999G999G999D00.*Not sure what you are reporting here. In the Forms Builder it is set to 99,999.999, and the FRM-40209 error message says it is 999G999G999D00, but what does my On-error code report?
Can you post the code for your when-validate-item triggers: All of them (item-level on the item, block-level and form-level)
I am curious what is in your On-error trigger, too.
...Oh, wait. I just noticed you wrote:
or any of the code in the menu its on that would be resetting the format mask*So you have some phantom code changing the format mask??? If that is the case, search the form and all its attached libraries for "SET_ITEM_PROPERTY" followed by "FORMAT_MASK". I would be extremely wary of ANY code that horses around with format masks.
You could also use the "get a bigger hammer" method, and set the format_mask the way you want it in the item's when-new-item-instance trigger or maybe a when-new-block-instance trigger.

Shutdown doesn't shuts off the laptop in Windows 10 (64 bit)- FAN, Power button Light still on

Hello. I have HP pavilion p045tx. Recently I upgraded to windows 10 update (64bit). When I shut down my laptop, the screen turns off but the power button light, fan etc still keeps on running. Previously I was running windows 8.1 home edition. I didn't face any sort of problem like this. Please give me solution what to do.

Download version 9 or 10 of the Intel Management Engine Interface (MEI) Driver.Navigate HP's Software and Driver Downloads site (http://www8.hp.com/us/en/drivers.html) to find the latest approved driver for your model. Filter by version, selecting Microsoft Windows 8.1 on the dropdown menu. Look for the download in the "Driver-Chipset" category. If an MEI driver with a version number starting in 9 or 10 is listed, download it. [Version 9.5.24.1790 1.5M (http://ftp.hp.com/pub/softpaq/sp66001-66500/sp66228.exe) will work for most models.]If an MEI driver with a version number starting in 9 or 10 is NOT listed, download the appropriate driver directly from Intel (https://downloadcenter.intel.com/search?keyword=intel+management+engine). [Version 9.5.24.1790 1.5M (https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/23091/Intel-ME-9-Management-Engine-Driver-for-Intel-NUC) will work for most models.]Download the Windows 10 "Show or Hide Updates" Troubleshooter Package (http://download.microsoft.com/download/F/2/2/F22D5FDB-59CD-4275-8C95-1BE17BF70B21/wushowhide.diagcab).Change the Windows Update Services setting from Automatic (Delayed Start) to Manual.In the Control Panel, select Administrative Tools and open Services.Scroll down to Windows Update and double-click it to bring up its properties.Click Stop to stop the service from running.Change the Startup Type to Manual and click OK.Install version 9 or 10 of the Intel Management Engine Interface (MEI) Driver. If you receive a dialog warning about replacing a newer version of the software, accept it.NOTE: You do NOT need to uninstall version 11 before installing version 9 or 10. The presence of some version of the driver is required in order to "upgrade" (or in this case downgrade) it.Run the Windows 10 "Show or Hide Updates" Troubleshooter Package and hide updates to the Intel Management Engine Interface (MEI) Driver. (Doing so will block your system from automatically reinstalling or showing updates for version 11 of the driver.)Change the Windows Update Services setting from Manual back to Automatic (Delayed Start).Restart your computer.Rejoice! You can finally sleep and shut down again. --DanG

Ok so a bit naughty but here is an sql question.

Can someone tell me the Datatype and subsequent information for creating a dropdown field. I am using PHP to build my site so hoping some nice PHP developers also use MySQL and might furnishm with the answer.
G

How about this? Would this work? Only $133 and free shipping:
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-PC3-12800-204-Pin-Notebook-CT2KIT102464BF160B/dp/B007B5S52C/ref=pd_cp_...

MDD G4 fan noise - suddenly

After a year or so of random, intermittent hangs and freezes and the occasional kernel panic on my DP 1.25GHz MDD G4, I have finally identified the culprit. My built-in FireWire 400 ports had been a bit flaky at times but now don't work at all. When starting in single-user mode (Cmd-S at startup) the following message would be displayed: "FWOHCI Error trying to clear PHY ports". After a lot of the normal software "fixes", such as resetting the PMU, resetting the PRAM, Open Firmware commands (reset-NVRAM, set-defaults, reset-all) at startup, Disk Utility verify/repair, etc., and even disabling then re-enabling the FireWire "extension" using Terminal, I am sure my diagnosis is correct. This was verified by checking the connectivity of external FireWire drives by using a "Combo" USB2/Firewire PCI card against the non-connectivity using the built-in FireWire ports. Definitely, the built-in ports are dead. Disk Utility would show nothing, and when opening up System profiler and selecting FireWire, most of the time System Profiler would crash.
Sometime ago I had purchased the same model (but in the single-processor configuration) as a "spare" in case my main one encountered problems. After checking the motherboards and making sure they had the same part number, I decided to swap the motherboards over. The dual-processor daughterboard connection to the motherboard is the same for both configurations, and the change-over was successful - the computer works as it did and I have Firewire back. Yay!
Up until the computer was "shut down improperly" (someone turned off the wrong power switch on the wall, causing sudden loss of power to the computer), it was going with no problems - probably about three hours of normal use. On restarting after this incident, the fans now run at a consistently high speed much faster (and louder) than before. I have tried all the above-mentioned software "tricks", but to no avail. I have run Applejack and I have checked the Firmware version - it is up to date (4.4.8f2). I even suspected a possible lessening of the amount of thermal grease between the processors and the heat sink during the changeover, but the fans had been working normally before the power-off incident. The ambient temperature is normal room temperature, possibly even slightly on the cool side. The fan "ramps up" to high speed (possibly full speed) about 15-20 seconds after pressing the on button and then stays at that speed with no variation.
Is there anything in these computers which acts as a thermostat and might possibly have been affected by the sudden loss of power. The power supply itself is good and I have had no problems with it. I do have a spare, as well as the one in the "spare" MDD, although I am reluctant to swap over the power supply as it is a fiddly job in confined spaces with many sharp edges to cut one's fingers on.
As mentioned earlier, everything (including fan operation) had been normal up until the power "went off". After that, the fan speed has been high all the time. Does anybody have any ideas as to what is going on and other things I might try?

Success - but not complete!
After cleaning off all the old thermal grease from the CPUs and the heatsink and applying a sufficient amount of new high-quality grease, there was no difference in the fan speed.
I put in the original motherboard (with the non-working FireWire ports), and the fans returned to operating as they should (ie at a speed proportional to the temperature). There was, however, a temperature increase reported by Temperature Monitor, most likely because of the slower air movement.
I found yet another motherboard which I had acquired in a non-working MDD G4 (dead power supply, dead hard drive, and a capacitor needing to be soldered back onto the motherboard, but the case was fine!), and tried it out. It has working FireWire ports and normal fan speed, but gives no sound through the front speaker. The front headphone socket and the rear headphone/speaker socket work, at least, although the extra socket for the Apple Pro Speakers appears to also be non-functional.
I have decided to stay with this motherboard for the time being as FireWire and quiet fans fall into the "must-have" category more than sound from the front speaker (which is mono after all - with a pair of Logitech speakers in either the front or rear headphone socket I can have glorious stereo).
To summarize the three motherboards:
1). The original: proper fan control, but non-functional FireWire ports;
2). First spare: functioning FireWire ports, but fans run (loudly) at full speed all the time;
3). Second spare: functioning FireWire ports, proper fan control but no sound through the front speaker.
The temperature readings with the "second spare" motherboard are:
37-38°C, 32-33°C and 29-30°C for the three drives (of the four) that it reports on, with this motherboard also giving a CPU temperature of 51-53°C (the others only gave readings for the drives). I don't know if these temperatures are "good" or a little on the high side, but the computer is working normally (apart from the front speaker), and the fan noise is mild/normal/acceptable rather than annoyingly loud.
I will probably investigate purchasing another, fully-functioning, motherboard, but the risk of faults is always present with older secondhand gear. Also, I would still like to work out what caused the fan-speed controller components to malfunction. I have had numerous incidents like this before - power outages, forced restarts by holding down the power button (after a kernel panic), etc. - but never had a hardware problem caused by the sudden loss of power. Maybe, in simple terms, its time was up.

Possible to swap MDD FW400 for FW800 logic board?

Hello all,
I'd thought I would ask this question because I have been thinking about this. Currently, have a dual 1.25 2003 model(not earlier MDD!) MDD G4 with the 2MB L3 per processor.
I just received today my airport extreme USB netgear device and I must say plugged into the USB 2.0 5-port card I have it is even faster than the Belkin PCI F5D7000 card! But, my question is concerning something else.
FW800 logic board - is it really worth it for me to swap current FW400 board with the FW800 board? 2ndly, can I use my existing MDD case or do I have to find another case? My power supply is a 360w power supply. I am not sure if it is a quieter one or not. The date on my power mac G4 2003 says: copyright June 2003(or was it July?) Apple computer. - Does this entail that the FW800 machines came out the same time as mine did? Again, I don't have the original MDD(867,1gh,1.25), I have the last dual bootable OS 9.2.2 MDD machine from 2003.
Also, is the airport extreme card going to produce faster results that the netgear WG111V2.0 USB device I currently have plugged into my USB 2.0 pci card? One thing I did notice is that I can no longer put my computer into hibernation or deep sleep, since I now have the USB 2.0 netgear wireless device attached.
Can anyone confirm if there is a way around for the sleep/hibernate function to work even with the USB 2.0 device plugged in? I also removed the Belkin wireless PCI card(FD57000). Before the USB 2.0 device, my computer would goto sleep and hibernate normally.
Thanks!

*9.x and Internet*: shouldn't be a problem with Ethernet. Forget which control panels you'll need to play with TCP/IP, Network? So if you want faster Internet with the MDD in 9.x, go with Ethernet -- the regular Airport card will work in 9.x by the way. That's the reason why for faster wireless, I'm going to buy the new Airport Express (with wireless -n), and connect via WDS to my Airport Extreme -- the MDD will connect to the Express via Ethernet which should be fine in both 9.x and OS X.
I did this once before my the original Airport Express (wireless -g) and an old Linksys all-in-one that supported WDS. But the Linksys blew its ethernet ports, so I replaced it with a newer model that doesn't support WDS.
*Copper heatsink* should fit any MDD CPU card, I've tried mine on both a Dual 867 and 1.25GHz cards, although I'm using a Verax cooler on the 1.25GHz Dual. The copper contact plate while narrow (about 1.5 cm) is a long piece, so it would contact both single and dual CPUs. As for the 1.25GHz dual in particular, see here.
Just a tip, use some good thermal compound, like Artic Silver. You'll need to clean off the old compound on your CPUs. I used Articlean (also made by Artic silver), works great. They sell a kit with both cleaner and purifier (preparation compound for the thermal compounds).
*Dual 1.25 2003*. I think the best way may be to check the model number. According to everymac.com, it should be M9145LL/A. I'm sure the info's also on Apple's site somewhere. The last 2003 1.25Ghz have 2MB L3 cache, which is easy enough to see in say System Profiler. If you're seeing 2MB L3, then you know you've got the CPU from the last 2003 model. As for the motherboard, you'd probably have to check the assembly number under the modem to insure a 2003 motherboard, but I don't think that matters as much as the CPU.
The CPU cards from MDDs and G4 XServes are pretty much interchangable --setting aside the issue of 133MHz and 167Mhz front side buses, which could overclock or underclock depending on CPU card & motherboard combination. And reading around there's an incompatibility with certain MDD Dual 1.0GHz on certain motherboards.
You could put an early 1.25GHz dual with only 1MB L3 on a 2003 MDD motherboard; for that matter you could stick a 1.42GHz dual from a FW800 MDD on your 2003 MDD motherboard, which some people have done. I guess if you're seeing Dual 1.25GHz w/1MB L3 advertised as the last 2003 MDDs, then people might not know what they're talking about, or may have replaced the CPU. The 1MB L3 versions cost less.
FW800, indeed if you want it, you can always add a card later. Since the MDDs don't have USB2, for that you'll need a card as I think you've already done. But there's always a worry of eating the slots. While rare, there are some combo USB2/FW800 cards. Problem with a combo cards over separate cards is that there's usually a performance hit on the FW side. A friend of mine has one that suffers from this -- like 7-10MB/sec hit. I recently bought a Siig combo FW800/USB2 and there's not nearly the performance hit; FW800 is only a few ticks less in MB/sec compared to my FW800 only card. In my DA, I didn't see any deep sleep issues with the Siig card, but every Mac is different. I've haven't tested it in a MDD, yet.
I'm working on getting two MDDs working (long story), so I have my hands full. Can't say I love the MDDs yet, but I certainly been bit by the tinkering/upgrading bug. So I'm have fun getting my two MDDs together that are both very close to being ready -- I need to stress test them before moving over my HDs/data, cards, etc.

Just for fun: Can you guess how I did this?

A few months ago a thread here discussed different way to stroke 3D objects in After Effects. There were lots of clever suggestions.
I made a TV spot last week that uses growing 3D ribbons to spell out the 2012 in the product title. There are straight planes and curves within the ribbon paths, and lighting and shadows were required to match the original album art it replicates. I needed to get the job done quickly and didn't have time to use a 3D application, so I used (what I think) was a rather innovative approach.
So, for a bit of fun, can you pick how I did this? The project is created entirely in AE, in one composition.
Apologies for the heavy compression in the video.

Thanks Todd!
My first attempt was exactly Rick's, using stacked solids with Stroke applied. I gave up on it because, once shadows were applied, the "ribbons" seemed to develop a mottled texture, presumeably because each layer in the stack casts a shadow on the layer behind it. Using Rick's design above, here's an example:
So in the end, I used text layers! Each ribbon is simply a long string of Helvetica "I" characters, with their kerning pulled back so all the characters touch. Convert to per-character 3D, rotate X axis 90 degrees, and apply mask as text path. Then I use a simple Text Animator on opacity to draw the lines on or off.
The great advantage of this is no cumbersome stack of layers. Each colour is one layer, so there's just five layers in my comp for each object. The "20" is one object, then the "1", then the "2" - 15 layers in all for the whole thing. Changing colours is as easy as changing a single text layer.
A total render hog, all the same: it took 11 hours to render the 15 second spot, on an 8 core Mac Pro with 16GB of RAM. But in 3D Draft mode the comp was surprisingly easy to work with. It's just the lighting and shadows that slow things down.
Anyways, perhaps this may inspire someone else to do something interesting with text layers.

Fun new Yoga video - The Pursuit

Saw this today for the first time... I had missed the internal early screening and was intrigued to hear that it had been directed by Martin Campbell, known for his work on Bond films "Golden Eye" and "Casino Royale".
Nice to see we are having a bit of fun with the products...
ThinkPads: S30, T43, X60t, X1, W700ds, IdeaPad Y710, IdeaCentre: A300, IdeaPad K1
Mark Hopkins
Program Manager, Lenovo Social Media (Services)
twitter @lenovoforums
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Like it!
Thanks for posting, Mark.
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Spare Parts Mod (CHEAP CHEAP)

so i've decided to take some of the parts from some of the systems i have, and put them together into a formal machine....
so far... the color scheme looks like blue,silver,black...
the parts i have already for it:
AMD Duron 1600 the HS/F on it... is my 2800+'s stock copper HS w/ a Tt 60mm FAN
GEIL PC3200 w/ blue heatspreaders
Shuttle AN35Ultra400 w/ blue PCB
Abit Siluro GF4 ti4200 w/ blue PCB and no HS/F
my old main rig case... silver and black w/ that generic spiderweb side window...
(has room for 1 rear, 1 window, and 2 front fans...)
550w 24A +12V powermagic PSU that is in the main rig (getting the Tt PSU replacement today)
what i've got ordered:
4 blue 80mm LED fans... (1.98 a peice )
Thermaltake HS/F for GF4 (its got blue leds in it too) (11 bucks )
some of it is already here... and i think the last package comes today
now as far as hard drives...
all i have to spare right now are 20GB...
i have 2 seagate 20GB identical drives... and i was considering getting RAID IDE card for it and go RAID 0... but alone those drives are pretty slow (and sucky)
and i have a fast 20GB WD (the newer 7200rpm model) too... but only 1 :(
i imagine those 2 seagates in a RAID0 would do better than a single new SATA drive...
any suggestions? i'll have some pics soon... so that you can actually see it...

Raven: actually i've never had a problem with this case... i've got a dual fan power supply keep in mind...
so its more like 2 fans out, 3 fans in... (if you don't count 1 of the PSU fans... if you count both than your all right...
3 in 2 out ain't bad at all
i will always check for stagnate air in there tho i mean, its shouldn't be bad at all
if it gets too too bad i can always put a 60mm fan in there... there is 1 spot for that... and i got a black one sittin here
here's a good shotta the abit w/ new Tt HS/F... i have yet to put the ramsinks on yet
i gooped on lots of Antec Reference cpu silver... lol a bit too expensive to go around gooping as5 on something that doesn't need it...
this antec reference is ALMOST as good as the AS5.. plus i have lots of it
not a bad lookin 'ol case,just wish i had black drives i have another beige LG CDburner that i'm gonna put in
should i paint?

Fan replacements/upgrade for MDD Power Mag G4-suggestions please!

First, I apologize for again bringing up what has been a frequently discussed topic. (ad nauseum?) I tried to do some homework first but I'd like a little help if anyone has some recent experience.
I am looking to change out the large main CPU heat sink fan and possibly the two power supply unit fans in my pair of MDD Power Mac G4s. The specs are Dual 1.25ghz (fw400) MDD G4. One has a 400watt actel PSU and another has a samsung 360watt PSU. Both large CPU case fans seem to be the original delta models installed by apple. Though essentially identical in specs, The 400 watt machine has the thick aluminum finned heat sink and the 360 watt machine has the aluminum heat sink with the thin sheets. The 400 watt machine is definitely louder, but I'm not using either of them for critical audio work, so its just a preference thing on having them run a bit quieter.
Both G4s are pretty loud. The noise bothers me a little, but what I really want to do is to replace what must be now pretty old delta fans with newer, quieter fans that will help extend the life of these 2nd hand computers that I plan to use for a number of years.
I scoured the web and read many articles about MDD mods and fan replacements, but many of the articles date back to 2003 and most of the fans that people have used seem to be no longer produced or available (such as the panaflow model referenced on xlr8yourmac.com I ran into many dead links! Maybe that's because there are better fan options now?
If anyone out there has replaced or upgraded their fans in a MDD recently, could you please reply and let me know...
Where you got them
What size and model number(s) for the fans
Whether you noticed any improvement in noise/cooling
I saw a recent post about replacing fans on an AGP Power Mac...
http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=11628216#11628216
Would these fans be the same? I'm guessing that the MDD wind tunnel might need more cooling than a G4 (AGP) right? SOme places mentioned that the main fans were 119x119x25, while others mentioned that hey were 120x120x25. Is 1mm going to make a difference? I'd prefer not to have to dremel them if I don't need to!
Lastly, if you have a direct link to a reasonably priced fan that you'd recommend, I'd appreciate it greatly!
Thanks for any help!
Dave C

Thanks Japamac!
Thanks for your replies! Those look very good! So many to choose...
Exactly the info I was looking for. I was checking out the panaflow (I was a bit overwhelmed by the number of choices on the 'Performance-pcs' website... if you were buying, which one of those 34 would you get? Assuming a budget of 20 bucks per 120mm fan...)
But a followup question on the Panaflo model you linked to. In the many web articles I read I recall that one being well regarded. ,IF I buy that one, I have a few choices on tail options...
3 pin
4 pin
4 pin male molex with separate 3 pin rpm connector
Am I correct that if I opt for the last option I can get the fan to run at a medium rpm all the time and have it be less likely to ramp up under heavy loads?
Lastly, will this possibly be a problem I might have, simiar to what was noted by a xlr8yourmac fan modder -->
http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/systems/g4mirrored_drive_doors/noise_reduction/g4_ddr_noisereduction.html
"(Updated comments added 7/9/2009)
I have an important update to that G4 fan mod note I gave you.
I noticed that the 120mm fan wasn't pushing as much air as I thought it should, and I realized it was because the 2-pin fan connector on the motherboard wasn't providing enough power. +(3 pin connectors typically are for adjustable/variable speeds. But if it's a constant speed fan then maybe the 2 pin wiring was using only 5V vs 12V? (higher voltage = higher rpm fan speed typically)-Mike)+ I put the 3-pin connector back on and used a 3 to 4 pin Molex adapter adapter to connect it to the 4-pin hard drive power cables -- voila! Lots more air. So... Following the directions in the older article exactly may NOT work depending on the fan you get. Also, using a 3 to 4 pin adapter is much easier than modifying the connector from 3 to 2 pins as indicated in the article."
This was confusing because I thought that there was just a 3 wire lead to connect or splice, with the yellow wire probably just not being used.
Your thoughts?
Dave C

Is there a way to install just the 32 bit version of Photoshop CS5 on a Windows 7 64 bit machine?

I have a custom built Java 6 application that doesn't like Photoshop CS5 64 bit edition. The program copies over a file from the network to the local machine and then opens it in Photoshop. The user manipulates the image and saves the changes. The user then completes the image and the application copies the image back to the server. The problem we're having is: When we use Photoshop CS5 64-bit, it takes about 2 minutes for Photoshop to open the image. The file is copied over within 2 seconds and the Photoshop icon on the windows taskbar starts flashing. But then you spend a few minutes waiting for it to open.
Some things that I have tried to isolate the problem:
- I found you can copy the file somewhere else, double click on it and the image will open in Photoshop before the script is able to open the file.
- I tried uninstalling Photoshop and reinstalling just the 64 bit edition without the 32 bit installation. The script just stops working in this situation.
- I tried uninstalling CS5 and installing CS3. The image opens as soon as the file is copied over.
What I would like to try next is to install just the CS5 32 bit version. But the installer is being uncooperative and will only allow either the 64 bit version or both the 64 and 32 bit versions. So, back to my question: Is there a way to install just the 32 bit version of Photoshop CS5 on a Windows 7 64 bit machine?

Do you mean schroot? If so I'm not sure exactly how well that will work out, because the part that depends on python is a deamon that handles communication between the USB dongle and the Tux Droid which may mean hacking the deamon a bit so ether way this does not seem like it will be a easy task.

64-bit Nightly v29 and Firefox v26 under Win7 64-bit are so slow for streaming, achieving only 4% of BW otherwise achieved by the sam firefox under Win7 32-bit.

Under my Window 7 64-bit OS, I've installed both Nightly Build v28 and v29 to perform "internet speed test" and each time, I can only achieve something < 2 mbps for my home Wi-Fi, gateway router which is about >56 Mbps. The only working Nightly version was v23 that could achieve close to >52 mbps. But once I update v23 to higher version, all the normal high speeds I could achieve at Nightly v23 are gone. The same issue plagued also firefox v26 under Win 7 64-bit.
For clarification, this is not true under Win 7 32-bit OS - the same firefox v26 works fine to achieve the raw BW speed close to and >56 mbps. WHy not in 64-bit OS seems to be the main question?
What's going on? I greatly appreciate you looking into and helping me out on this dilemma. Thanks!
Sincerely
Shao Ma

hello Shao Ma, when you are using speedtest.net or a similar flash-based site to measure your connection speed then it might be an issue with the protected mode that [http://blogs.adobe.com/asset/2012/06/inside-flash-player-protected-mode-for-firefox.html adobe has introduced] for its flash plugin for firefox. some old versions of f-secure or trusteer rapport are known to cause such slowdowns together with flash, or it might be something similar on your system that is interfering (maybe security software that is blocking/sandboxing the container used for the protected mode, etc...).
as a workaround you could try [http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1018071#TemporaryWorkaround disabling protected mode] & see if this makes a difference.
in case you'd like to troubleshoot the issue further, it would be best to contact adobe's support & file a bug report at bugbase.adobe.com (choose "Adobe Flash Player" as the product & "Browser Integration" as the product area), since they will have a better understanding of the internals of flash protected mode & therefore may know what else might be at the root of the problem you were seeing.

A bit of fun w/ a spare MDD - Question re: fan power & grills

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