A check on my settings to get the best out of them.

Just checking base with you as you always offer me the best advice.
Have just received my extra 2gb ram (yipee) which now takes me to the max 4gb allowed for my OS.
Everything is working as it should so l'm wondering whether l'm now getting the best from my system (via the settings).
I can overclock the FSB via rocker switches on the mobo by either 10%,15% or 20%. Can't notice any difference if set at 15% or 20% so have left it at 10% as that seems to show more of a difference over the default than the higher settings. Don't know why it's not faster at 15% or 20% but l can't see it.
Also, if l look at my virtual memory settings in System Properties, for the C drive it is set to custom size, initial size 2046mb, maximum size 4092mb. For the D and F drives which have plenty of space on them, the buttons are just set to no paging file.
The total paging file size for all drives says minimum allowed 2mb, recommended 4990mb, currently allocated 2046mb.
Would you recommend any changes for any of these settings?
Thank you

Quote
Surely a 32 bit system can take 4gb with most of the 4th gig being used up by the OS and video, which means the actual ram available would be a tad over the 3gb mark, ie 3.2gb ish so you need the 4gb to acheive this?
You're sort of right... of course, you can physically have 4GB of memory, but when using a 32bit OS due to addressing limitations there'll only be about 3-3.5gb available RAM. You can use a 64bit OS which is able to address all the RAM, but any 32bit software you run will face the same limitation.
You'll notice I have 4GB RAM in my machine, but I only use a 32bit OS. I'm not really bothered about having only 3.2GB RAM available, as its still more memory than I had previously, and 3.2GB is more than enough for my needs. There isn't any 64bit software available yet that I'm desperate to use, so I'm holding off on installing a 64bit OS, its certainly not worth it yet just so I can have that 'full 4GB' to use.
Quote from: waltari on 30-November-10, 01:55:14
You cannot utilize 4096MB in 32bit enviroment, to do so you need 36bits ... just simple math
I doubt if anyone is going to create a 36bit CPU architecture and operating system, just so someone can utilise 4GB of RAM.

Similar Messages

MOVED: A check on my settings to get the best out of them.

This topic has been moved to Overclockers & Modding Corner.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=143380.0

Quote
Surely a 32 bit system can take 4gb with most of the 4th gig being used up by the OS and video, which means the actual ram available would be a tad over the 3gb mark, ie 3.2gb ish so you need the 4gb to acheive this?
You're sort of right... of course, you can physically have 4GB of memory, but when using a 32bit OS due to addressing limitations there'll only be about 3-3.5gb available RAM. You can use a 64bit OS which is able to address all the RAM, but any 32bit software you run will face the same limitation.
You'll notice I have 4GB RAM in my machine, but I only use a 32bit OS. I'm not really bothered about having only 3.2GB RAM available, as its still more memory than I had previously, and 3.2GB is more than enough for my needs. There isn't any 64bit software available yet that I'm desperate to use, so I'm holding off on installing a 64bit OS, its certainly not worth it yet just so I can have that 'full 4GB' to use.
Quote from: waltari on 30-November-10, 01:55:14
You cannot utilize 4096MB in 32bit enviroment, to do so you need 36bits ... just simple math
I doubt if anyone is going to create a 36bit CPU architecture and operating system, just so someone can utilise 4GB of RAM.

How can I get the best out of my battery life?

There are a variety of things you can do to extend your device battery life, and use your phone for longer periods of time to see you through the day.
Set your screen to timeout after a period of inactivity. This way your phone is not sitting idle with the screen backlight consuming extra energy. The recommended screen timeout is 30 seconds, but most phones will allow from 15 seconds to 10 minutes.
Turn off location services (GPS), Wi-Fi and Bluetooth when not using these functions. When they're on, your phone constantly searches for your current location and open networks, which has a big impact on battery life.
Turn down the screen brightness. For example, on an iPhone 4 the lowest brightness setting gives roughly 6.5 hours of continuous use, whereas the highest setting gives roughly 3.5 hours. You can always adjust the brightness when you're outside so you can still see your screen clearly. Some devices have an auto-brightness setting, where the phone adjusts the screen brightness depending on the light around it.
Close your applications. On smartphones, returning to the ‘home' screen only minimises your apps – they keep running in the background. Closing your apps fully will save power; for example, on Samsung Galaxy devices hold down the home button for two seconds to see a list of all open apps. You can then swipe these to the left of the screen to exit them completely. On an Apple product, double press the home button to bring up all active applications and exit from there.

Re: How can I get the best out of my battery life?
Hi,
When I make phone calls people on the other end have difficulty hearing me. They describe as they can hardly hear me as if I was speaking through the pillow etc). I am not touching any buttons and obviously it is not mute. This was happening couple of time in June, then every now and then. Recently it happened a few time in 2 weeks. I was trying to check if it was a reception issue but the place I spoke from is my office I make 70% of phone calls from. Can you book time for me in repair shop and address the issue.
Thank you.
Sergey Sinitsyn

What's the best option to get the best out of my h...

Prior to the speed upgrade I was connecting at 38MB/ 8MB and now checking my speed via BBMAX I'm connecting at 62MB/14MB (BT speedchecker advised 56.6MB/18MB) so are pleased with the upgrade.
My main pc tests as above connected to the home hub 3 via a Cat 5 cable. Testing the other PCs/ PS3 in the rest of the house the best I can connect is 33MB via a wireless n usb adaptor. I've tried TP link 200MB power line adaptors connected to the home hub and to the PC using the house power circuits and still only obtain 33MB on the speed test (the T link utility shows I'm connecting at 133MB).
I assume my wireless network is being limited due to other older G type devices (such as mobile phones etc) bringing the wireless N network down to their level?
So to get the best out of my broadband in the rest of the house, should I upgrade to TP link 500MB units, get a dual band router (which will run G and N type devices) or are these two upgrades not worth it and should I take a hit and hard wire and have all the problems of running the cat 5 cables to the rest of the house?
PS as a side note my son has the PS Vita and cant get any speed results faster than 13MB on the wireless network

hmmm - you have lots of options and it really pays to think them all through for what you want to achieve. Don't lose sight of that.
i now use time capsule and with the dual band noted an immediate improvement to the extent that i'm nicely wireless throughout my house. My sons use PS3 wirelessly and get a fast, stable connection all the time (16-18mg). I don't care too much that wirelessly might not be best option. It exceeds my needs .
You'll get alot of views from the guys on this forum - each with their own experiences and trials/errors - lots of good learning!!
cheers
AC

I have an iPhone in my name and my wife has an iPad in her name. We have just ordered an iMac and wondered which account we should use to get the best out of all the devices

I have an iPhone in my name and my wife has an iPad in her name. We have just ordered an iMac and wondered which account we should use to get the best out of all the devices? Can we use both accounts in iCloud?

Yes you can. However, it is better to use one person's account most of the time for purchases in the Mac App Store and iTunes since you can share purchases, such as songs, among various devices using the SAME account. You Cannot share purchases among different accounts, though. So make one of your accounts the main "purchasing" account so you can share purchases.
Hope this helps

Please suggest a method and some settings to get the best quality DVD

I’m trying to find the correct settings to use to make the best quality DVD of an iMovie project. It includes still photos (a couple use the Ken Burns effect), movie clips, titles, maps, transitions, and audio. The project is 33 minutes long. So far, I have burned it by using 3 different methods and the results vary, but not one of the three is optimal for everything. Is it possible to make a DVD that has the best quality of everything or do you have to sacrifice one thing to get the best of another? Here’s the workflow for each method.
#1 iMovie09 ->share to media (960x540) ->burned with iDVD (best). Everything is acceptable except for the movie clips which have low quality with smeared details.
#2 iMovie09 ->export to Quicktime (Apple intermediate codec, current frame rate, data rate-auto, compressor native, 1440x1080) ->burned with
Toast 9. Compared to the first method, the titles are pixelated, the animated map arrows show jaggies, one Ken Burns zoom shimmers a lot, the quality of the photos is slightly less, but the movie clips are a lot better and are acceptable.
#3 Quicktime .mov file from #2 ->MPEGStreamClip (deinterlace, all other settings auto or default ->burned with Toast 9. Movie clips are the best of the 3 methods, photo quality is better than #2, but not as good as #1. Titles and other effects are just a little better than #2, but not as good as #1.
Can anyone suggest some settings using any combination of the programs mentioned above to produce a DVD that has the best photo, effects quality, and movie clip quality all on one DVD?
Rick

from a prior post, I find this worked quite well, but i think you already thought it was not that good for you, i did not get the 'smeared details" or so I thought:
"In iMovie, do not "Share to iDVD", it makes a pretty bad product. Instead,
"Share to Media Browser" and choose the "HD" version if you can, this will take your iMovie project and export it (Can take an hour or 2) into a 720p movie (that looks close to your original iMovie project). That 720p .mov file will be hidden in the iMovie's Project's file; access it if you want by right clicking on the project, show contents, movies (but you dont need to look at it as it is directly accessible through iDVD). SO after the movie has exported, you then open iDVD and click on the MEdia button in the lower R corner, then Choose MOvies, then choose iMovie and you should be able to see that 720p movie that iMovie made. Drag that movie version into iDVD's window (after setting up your theme, background music etc) and then burn. It should look pretty good. Remember, all DVDs are compressed to standard definition (SD) so you will lose definition from the 720p to the 480 resolution of a DVD, but hopefully it will be fine.

Advice to get the best out of this machine with cs5

hello out there. i am trying to get the best results out of this setup: win7 64bit, cs5, 2 x Intel Xeon DP X5650, 6x 2.67GHz, 12 GB Ram, nvidea quadro fx 3800, system drive 2TB SATA, data drive 2TB SATA, external esata raid for editing and a blackmagic multibridge extreme.
so here is my question: what would be the perfect setup (scratch disc, page file, preview files etc.)? are there any "tweaks", would it be good to overclock the xeons?
a big thanks to the comunity, greetings from austria,
artefact

wd mybook studio II harddrives.
Those are nice for backup to a limited extent. Not for editing, because it uses green disks on a SATA 150 port in raid0.
With the processors you have, your disk setup is the weakest link in the chain.
Consider a good raid controller, like the Areca Arc-1680Ix-12/16, two Supermicro CSE-M35T drive cages and add a number of Spinpoint F3 or WD RE4 drives (up to 10 with the 2 cages) in Raid3, possibly with a hot-spare disk, depending on the number of disks in the array.

Can't upgrade past 10.6.8 - how do I get the best out of my mac?

Hi everyone,
This is my first ever time posting in this community since purchasing my Mac in 2008, it's been that good!
My problem is that I currently live in Peru (from Australia). Macs are ridiculously over-priced here in this country and because I live on savings, upgrading at this time is not going to happen. I'm building a website for my business and because Safari 5 is so out of date, it's not showing the site properly when I make changes (using wordpress). In addition, my computer is very slow and I have regular meetings with the spinning ball of death.
I've tried to clear out as much junk from the computer as I can to speed it up and I am now looking at installing Firefox because of the Safari issues, which is going to just add more bloat to an already sluggish system.
I ran an EtreCheck on my system and I'm hoping one of the good people in the Mac community may be able to tell me if there are any glaring issues/viruses etc that stand out which could be causing me any problems? I've done as much as I can within my limited knowledge of soft and hardware Heregoes...Thank you in advance!
Problem description:
Slow Mac 10.6.8
EtreCheck version: 2.1.8 (121)
Report generated 18 March 2015 5:24:44 PM GMT-05:00
Download EtreCheck from http://etresoft.com/etrecheck
Click the [Click for support] links for help with non-Apple products.
Click the [Click for details] links for more information about that line.
Hardware Information: ℹ️
    MacBook (13-inch, Early 2008) (Verified)
    MacBook - model: MacBook4,1
    1 2.1 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo CPU: 2-core
    1 GB RAM
        BANK 0/DIMM0
            512 MB DDR2 SDRAM 667 MHz ok
        BANK 1/DIMM1
            512 MB DDR2 SDRAM 667 MHz ok
    Bluetooth: Old - Handoff/Airdrop2 not supported
    Wireless: en1: 802.11 a/b/g/n
    Battery Health: Normal - Cycle count 408
Video Information: ℹ️
    GMA X3100 - VRAM: 144 MB
        Color LCD 1280 x 800
        spdisplays_display_connector
System Software: ℹ️
    Mac OS X 10.6.8 (10K549) - Time since boot: 0:27:40
Disk Information: ℹ️
    FUJITSU MHY2120BH disk0 : (111.79 GB)
        - (disk0s1) <not mounted> : 210 MB
        [redacted] HD (disk0s2) / : 119.69 GB (28.04 GB free)
USB Information: ℹ️
    Micron Built-in iSight
    Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
    Apple Computer Apple Internal Keyboard / Trackpad
    Apple Computer, Inc. IR Receiver
Kernel Extensions: ℹ️
        /System/Library/Extensions
    [not loaded]    com.Huawei.driver.HuaweiDataCardDriver (2.9.7) [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    com.olympus.CamBlockCommandsDeviceUP (1.0.0) [Click for support]
Problem System Launch Daemons: ℹ️
    [not loaded]    org.samba.winbindd.plist [Click for support]
Launch Agents: ℹ️
    [not loaded]    com.adobe.AAM.Updater-1.0.plist [Click for support]
Launch Daemons: ℹ️
    [loaded]    com.adobe.fpsaud.plist [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.adobe.SwitchBoard.plist [Click for support]
    [failed]    com.torch.update.agent.plist [Click for support] [Click for details]
    [loaded]    com.tunnelbear.mac.tbeard.plist [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    org.eyebeam.SelfControl.plist [Click for support]
User Launch Agents: ℹ️
    [loaded]    com.adobe.AAM.Updater-1.0.plist [Click for support]
    [loaded]    com.adobe.ARM.[...].plist [Click for support]
    [running]    com.spotify.webhelper.plist [Click for support]
    [not loaded]    jp.co.canon.Inkjet_Extended_Survey_Agent.plist [Click for support]
User Login Items: ℹ️
    AdobeResourceSynchronizer    Application (/Applications/Adobe Reader.app/Contents/Support/AdobeResourceSynchronizer.app)
Internet Plug-ins: ℹ️
    OfficeLiveBrowserPlugin: Version: 12.3.6 [Click for support]
    Flip4Mac WMV Plugin: Version: 2.2.3.7 [Click for support]
    AdobeAAMDetect: Version: AdobeAAMDetect 1.0.0.0 - SDK 10.6 [Click for support]
    FlashPlayer-10.6: Version: 16.0.0.305 - SDK 10.6 [Click for support]
    AdobePDFViewerNPAPI: Version: 11.0.07 - SDK 10.6 [Click for support]
    Silverlight: Version: 5.1.20913.0 - SDK 10.6 [Click for support]
    Flash Player: Version: 16.0.0.305 - SDK 10.6 Outdated! Update
    QuickTime Plugin: Version: 7.6.6
    iPhotoPhotocast: Version: 7.0
    AdobePDFViewer: Version: 11.0.07 - SDK 10.6 [Click for support]
    EPPEX Plugin: Version: 3.0.5.0 [Click for support]
    JavaAppletPlugin: Version: 13.9.8 - SDK 10.6 Check version
Audio Plug-ins: ℹ️
    iSightAudio: Version: 7.6.6
3rd Party Preference Panes: ℹ️
    Flash Player [Click for support]
    Flip4Mac WMV [Click for support]
    Perian [Click for support]
Time Machine: ℹ️
    Time Machine information requires OS X 10.7 "Lion" or later.
Top Processes by CPU: ℹ️
         2%    WebProcess
         2%    WindowServer
         1%    Safari
         1%    ps
         0%    SystemUIServer
Top Processes by Memory: ℹ️
    152 MB    WebProcess
    61 MB    Safari
    44 MB    WindowServer
    37 MB    PluginProcess
    35 MB    Finder
Virtual Memory Information: ℹ️
    36 MB    Free RAM
    511 MB    Active RAM
    257 MB    Inactive RAM
    268 MB    Wired RAM
    429 MB    Page-ins
    58 MB    Page-outs
Diagnostics Information: ℹ️
    Mar 18, 2015, 04:54:12 PM    /Library/Logs/DiagnosticReports/TorchUpdater_2015-03-18-165412_[redacted].crash
    Mar 18, 2015, 04:54:12 PM    /Library/Logs/CrashReporter/TorchUpdater_2015-03-18-165412_[redacted].crash
    Mar 18, 2015, 04:53:42 PM    Self test - passed
    Mar 18, 2015, 03:42:12 PM    /Library/Logs/DiagnosticReports/TorchUpdater_2015-03-18-154212_[redacted].crash
    Mar 18, 2015, 03:42:12 PM    /Library/Logs/CrashReporter/TorchUpdater_2015-03-18-154212_[redacted].crash
    Mar 18, 2015, 03:12:20 PM    /Library/Logs/DiagnosticReports/TorchUpdater_2015-03-18-151220_[redacted].crash
    Mar 18, 2015, 03:12:20 PM    /Library/Logs/CrashReporter/TorchUpdater_2015-03-18-151220_[redacted].crash
    Mar 18, 2015, 02:41:43 PM    /Library/Logs/CrashReporter/TorchUpdater_2015-03-18-144143_[redacted].crash
    Mar 18, 2015, 02:41:43 PM    /Library/Logs/DiagnosticReports/TorchUpdater_2015-03-18-144143_[redacted].crash
    Mar 18, 2015, 02:11:58 PM    /Library/Logs/CrashReporter/TorchUpdater_2015-03-18-141158_[redacted].crash
    Mar 18, 2015, 02:11:58 PM    /Library/Logs/DiagnosticReports/TorchUpdater_2015-03-18-141158_[redacted].crash

Upgrading to Mountain Lion
To upgrade to Mountain Lion you must have Snow Leopard 10.6.8 or Lion installed. Purchase a redemption code at the Online Apple Store: OS X Mountain Lion. Mountain Lion is $19.99 plus tax. Use the code to redeem a download of Mountain Lion from the App Store. The file is quite large, over 4 GBs, so allow some time to download. It would be preferable to use Ethernet because it is nearly four times faster than wireless.
     OS X Mountain Lion - System Requirements
       Macs that can be upgraded to OS X Mountain Lion
         1. iMac (Mid 2007 or newer) - Model Identifier 7,1 or later.
         2. MacBook (Late 2008 Aluminum, or Early 2009 or newer) - Model
             Identifier 5,1 or later.
         3. MacBook Pro (Mid/Late 2007 or newer) - Model Identifier 3,1 or later.
         4. MacBook Air (Late 2008 or newer) - Model Identifier 2,1 or later.
         5. Mac mini (Early 2009 or newer) - Model Identifier 3,1 or later.
         6. Mac Pro (Early 2008 or newer) - Model Identifier 3,1 or later.
         7. Xserve (Early 2009) - Model Identifier 3,1 or later.
To find the model identifier open System Profiler in the Utilities folder. It's displayed in the panel on the right.
     Are my applications compatible?
         See App Compatibility Table - RoaringApps.
Upgrading to Yosemite
You can upgrade to Yosemite from Lion or directly from Snow Leopard. Yosemite can be downloaded from the Mac App Store for FREE.
Upgrading to Yosemite
To upgrade to Yosemite you must have Snow Leopard 10.6.8 or Lion installed. Download Yosemite from the App Store. Sign in using your Apple ID. Yosemite is free. The file is quite large, over 5 GBs, so allow some time to download. It would be preferable to use Ethernet because it is nearly four times faster than wireless.
    OS X Mavericks/Yosemite- System Requirements
    Macs that can be upgraded to OS X Yosemite
         1. iMac (Mid 2007 or newer) - Model Identifier 7,1 or later
         2. MacBook (Late 2008 Aluminum, or Early 2009 or newer) - Model Identifier 5,1 or later
         3. MacBook Pro (Mid/Late 2007 or newer) - Model Identifier 3,1 or later
         4. MacBook Air (Late 2008 or newer) - Model Identifier 2,1 or later
         5. Mac mini (Early 2009 or newer) - Model Identifier 3,1 or later
         6. Mac Pro (Early 2008 or newer) - Model Identifier 3,1 or later
         7. Xserve (Early 2009) - Model Identifier 3,1 or later
To find the model identifier open System Profiler in the Utilities folder. It's displayed in the panel on the right.
     Are my applications compatible?
         See App Compatibility Table - RoaringApps.
Upgrading to Lion
If your computer does not meet the requirements to install Mavericks, it may still meet the requirements to install Lion.
You can purchase Lion at the Online Apple Store. The cost is $19.99 (as it was before) plus tax. It's a download. You will get an email containing a redemption code that you then use at the Mac App Store to download Lion. Save a copy of that installer to your Downloads folder because the installer deletes itself at the end of the installation.
     Lion System Requirements
       1. Mac computer with an Intel Core 2 Duo, Core i3, Core i5, Core i7,
           or Xeon processor
       2. 2GB of memory
       3. OS X v10.6.6 or later (v10.6.8 recommended)
       4. 7GB of available space
       5. Some features require an Apple ID; terms apply.

KT4V mobo - how do I get the best out of my AMD chip

Hi
I have an MSI KT4V motherboard...
I recently bought an AMD XP3000+ Barton processor....
(which I have checked the serial number etc and as is one that runs at 333Mhz)
THEN I realised the processor is only running at about 1.3Mhz instead of 2.167Mhz... and I was told that I need to replace my RAM with some that runs at 333Mhz
At the moment, my FSB runs as standard at 100, and I can tweak it to abotu 110. BUT if I try to run it at 166 (which it should be at forthis processor) the system crashes ... presumably ecause the RAM I have can't cope (the old RAM is not 333mhz)
ANY HELP.... please... IF I simply buy some PC2700 (333Mhz) memory, will that make it possible to set the FSB at 166, and get my processor running at full speed??
cheers
Phil

Hi - thanks for that...I don't know quite why I had probs with the BIOS before...
I have 266 memory...so have indeed set the FSB in BIOS to 133, and it's fine, showing CPU running at 1700mhz as expected ... and so yes I'm off to buy some 333mz memory, so I can crank FSB up to 166 and get my CPU running at 2.1Ghz
Cheers
Phil

MOVED: KT4V mobo - how do I get the best out of my AMD chip

This topic has been moved to AMD SocketA based board.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=96167.0

Hi - thanks for that...I don't know quite why I had probs with the BIOS before...
I have 266 memory...so have indeed set the FSB in BIOS to 133, and it's fine, showing CPU running at 1700mhz as expected ... and so yes I'm off to buy some 333mz memory, so I can crank FSB up to 166 and get my CPU running at 2.1Ghz
Cheers
Phil

I'd like to get the best out my router (Port Forward issues)

I'm using the WRT54G2 for the router and the wmp54G. I'm trying to get games like America's Army and Team Fortress 2 to work properly. I assigned all my pc's static Ip's using the portforward guide. I forwarded the necessary ports.
I can't connect to my account on America's Army and I can't connect to any servers on Team Fortress 2. I've tried turning off my Anti-virus and firewall but still no luck. I'm trying to do this over the pc with the wireless connection.
Any suggestions?
I also have another question: when forwarding ports or using the DMZ option, what IP address do I forward to? The pc directly connected to the router or the pc that's trying to use the ports (the wireless one)?
btw, MY ISP is Comcast
Message Edited by xxkuronoxx on 12-09-2008 08:03 AM
Message Edited by xxkuronoxx on 12-09-2008 08:03 AM
Solved!
Go to Solution.

In most cases, you can use the proxy DNS server that is built into the router at 192.168.1.1 (default address), but in your case would be at 192.168.2.1
Using the proxy DNS server is preferred. The router keeps track of your ISP's actual Internet DNS server addresses, and forwards data to the appropriate DNS server.
If the router's proxy DNS server does not work, then enter your true Internet DNS server address into your computer.
Additionally, I see that you are using .101 and .102 addresses in your computers. Your default DHCP server range is .100 thru .149 , so unless you changed it, you are using illegal fixed LAN IP addresses in your computers. This might be the cause for your problems. Note that all fixed LAN IP addresses must be outside your DHCP server range.

How do I get the best out of my iPhone 4 battery?

I don't know what I should do with my battery like how to make it last for as long as possible, I just got my iPhone 4 :)

http://www.apple.com/batteries/iphone.html

Getting the best quality out of iMovie for Photo Slideshows

Hi, Finally I got my iMac the other day and have been playing around and trying to get the best out of it and was hoping to get some help from here. I have been playing with ilife on a friends mac for a while but never had a go in anger and now need some proper answers. Its quite simple. I create photo dvd slideshows and need to find the best way to do it. As far as I can tell there are a few ways. I can use imovie to get the running order - add the Ken Burns effects (that I DO need) - add music - add transitions and "share" to a .mov file and drag this into iDVD to put a menu on. Ok - this works but I get some MPEG artifacts (I know this is to be expected - I have been doing this for years on a PC). I can drag photos into iDVD but as far as I can tell I cannot have Ken Burns so this is out. I can use iPhoto to make a .mov file and again import this into iDVD. Am I missing something here? iMovie08 seems great and the .mov file is good enough quality to re-render in iDVD without losing too much quality so I guess this is the way to go but is there no way to go without rendering the .mov file and then going into iDVD? I have also used iMovie06 before and it had better transitions between photos - have these been lost in iMovie08?? I have set the quality in iMovie08 to "Profesional" but there stil seems to be a bit of artifacting. Should I try Toast?
Apologies for the long post but am really keen to get this sorted. I have posted before on here and got great responses but just want to get it right 100% before putting lots of effort in. I have next week off work to perfect the photos to DVD slideshow before I start to try to sell these things! many many thanks.Ben

Hi,
Many thanks for the post. It seems to be that iDVD is giving me the render quality issues. I am going to try toast to see what thats like. Thanks for the help with imovie06. I have been using it but it has a bug when you fade music out so cannot use it unfortunately!
Regards

Eversince I updated my iphone 4 to IOS 5.0.1, sometimes I get a 'No Service' or 'Searching' signal where my network signal should be upon which I have to 'Reset all Settings' to get the phone normal again.Is there a solution to this?

Eversince I updated my iphone 4 to IOS 5.0.1, sometimes I get a 'No Service' or 'Searching' signal where my network signal should be upon which I have switch the phone off then on then 'Reset all Settings' to get the phone normal again.Is there a solution to this?

I couldn't find the edit button on my original post so I am posting an update here.
I have gone through more apps and have had good luck on all but one more. And it's not that the app doesn't work, I am talking about the Yahoo Weather app, It works fine, but when you swipe between cities the screen lags a bit and it sometimes doesn't move between pages the way it should. On iOS 7.1.2 it was smooth as butter but on iOS 8.0, not so much. I will post a note in the app store to let them know. I really like the Yahoo app better than the new stock app.
I have been going through my games and they all work fine. Angry Birds (Original and Stella), Canabalt, Minecraft, Bejeweled 2, Silly Walks, PopWords, Doodle Jump, Deep Green all seem to work just fine.
Starbucks app works as it should.
I will stop back again next week after I have had the weekend to play with it in detail and post my thoughts again.

Creative Cloud Student and Teacher Edition .I use the Macbook.I got the mail that said my order was checked,but I don't get the number.So I still use trial.Hoe can I change my character into member?

Creative Cloud Student and Teacher Edition .I use the Macbook.I got the mail that said my order was checked,but I don't get the number.So I still use trial.Hoe can I change my character into member?

This is an open forum, not Adobe support... you need Adobe support to help
Adobe contact information - http://helpx.adobe.com/contact.html
-Select your product and what you need help with
-Click on the blue box "Still need help? Contact us"

A check on my settings to get the best out of them.

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