A few questions about the Macbook Air

Well I currently have a 2011 MacBook Pro which I love but it has definetely turned into my Desktop computer. I dont really ever even take it around my house but it is a major powerhouse.
Well even though the holdidays are 6 months away around that time I am either going to be in the market for either another iPad because I currently have the iPad 1 and will seel it or maybe a Macbook Air.
I mainly use my iPad for browsing the internet, going on forums, and checking email. The iPad gets really annoying if you are trying to type and mine is very slow.
Do you think that the Macbook Air would be over kill or would it fit perfectly. The only thing I cant justify about the Macbook Air is the price. I was thinking about going refurb but I dont know if that would be the smart thing to do.
Could anyone help me out with this issue.
Thanks

I think that this is such a personal preference issue, that any answers would simply be a "what would you do?" poll.
That you already have a MBP and an iPad, you already know the advantages and disavantages of both. The Air is going to be somthing that is, in a way, having some of the features of both. The Air, insasmuch as it is portable, somewhat like the iPad, but with OS X and a keyboard. You also don't like the cost of the Air.
I don't know that here is a reasonable answer, just for the reason that we don't know how much you get out of the iPad. Personally, I ditched my iPad after I got the 11" Air. I then more, or less gravitated to the 13" Air, and then ditched my MBP. For me, the 13" Air has then replaced them both.

Similar Messages

Few questions about the MacBook

Hi.
I'm gonna buy a macbook within a few months, and I have a few questions for you all!
Here are the questions:
1. ) Is it worth $1,299 + Tax, USD?
2. ) When will Apple release the next gen. of macbooks?
3. ) How well does it play games?
4. ) How heavy is it?
5. ) How does the keyboard style feel compared to other laptops?
6. ) How long does the battery normally last while using wirless?
7. ) What is the Macbook lacking?
8. ) Does it get as hot as a car, like its predisesor?
9. ) Can you please send some pics of one next to some thing that we all have, like a quarter? (For comparison.)
And finally, is there any thing I should know before buying?

Here are the questions:
1. ) Is it worth $1,299 + Tax, USD?
Yeah. You are going to NEED that 1 gig of ram that's for sure. Plus, you get a double layer DVD burner, 20 extra gigs of hard drive space and a tiny speed boost from the 1.83 GHz. All this is costing you about $200 extra. The Ram and DVD alone would cost that much if you got them after words.
However, I got the cheap $1100 one because none of those features are really that important to me. I really couldn't tell the difference between 1.83 GHz and 2.0 GHz and I doubt anyone else could either. I don't need a DVD burner built in because I have access to an external one. Maybe latter I'll upgrade to a larger HD (something like 300 GB though!). So, the only thing that really was lacking on my MacBook when I bought it was the the RAM. So, I spent about $140 for a 1 Gig stick and I feel a lot better now.
2. ) When will Apple release the next gen. of
macbooks?
They already did. The Core2 Duo will most likely stick it out for a while. I could see them upping the MHz every now and then(this will happen more frequently with the Intel chips eg. quad core MacBook Pro or a 2.5 GHz MacBook ) but I wouldn't expect them to upgrade to a new hardware platform for the next few years. Not to mention that the MacBook is essentially a new product at the beginning of it's life-cycle. I could be wrong but I believe that this is it for a while.
3. ) How well does it play games?
Actually, I was surprised to find that it does pretty good. Since the video card shares memory with the system, Performance is very memory dependent. If you plan on playing a lot of games, go ahead and upgrade to the full 2 Gigs of RAM. I play Halo now and then without much of a problem.
4. ) How heavy is it?
Not at all. It's very thin and light weight.
5. ) How does the keyboard style feel compared to
other laptops?
Well, different to be sure. But not in a bad way at all. In fact, I tend to have less typos then before because my fingers can fell the edges of the keys now. I actually like it a lot to tell you the truth.
6. ) How long does the battery normally last while
using wirless?
About 3.5 - 4 hours give or take 30 minutes or so. I tend to close the lid a lot during the day when I'm not directly using it so that saves a huge amount of power. Seriously though, I was blown away by how long the battery lasts on this thing when I got it. My previous laptop (Sony Vaio), I could maybe get about 1.5 hours out it without being plugged in. No, this thing rocks as far as that's concerned.
7. ) What is the Macbook lacking?
Metal case, back lit keys, PC card slot, FireWire 800 and... well, if those things matter to you then you better get a MacBook Pro. Although is battery life is important then the MacBook will beat the pants of the Pro.
8. ) Does it get as hot as a car, like its
predisesor?
By Predecessor do you mean the iBook? or the first gen/hot off the assembly line MacBooks? Either way, they do get hot. You can use one of the many fan control software to cool it down but most of us have just gotten used to it.
9. ) Can you please send some pics of one next to
some thing that we all have, like a quarter? (For
comparison.)
Sorry, I don't have one at the moment. It's definetly larger then an iBook but smaller then a MacBook Pro if that helps. I would suggest making a trip to your nearest Apple store.
And finally, is there any thing I should know before
buying?
Universal Binary! That will become a very important word for you. Although the list grows day by day, the lack of Adobe products is like a stain on the MacBook/Pro. There is an entire industry that uses nothing but Adobe products. For them, Intel Mac's are not an option at this point in time.

A lot of questions about my MacBook Air

I am really new to re-using Apple computers.The last time I used an Apple computer was back in 1987 when the school and my family had Apple IIGS computers. I have been using PC's which reqiure Microsoft. I a lot of have questions (10 questions) about my MacBook Air and I hope you good people can and will help me.
Product: MacBook Air
Operating System: Mac OS X Version 10.7.4
1) I Downloaded MacKeeper because I was fooled. I had a bad feeling just before I Downloaded it and I should have listened to my heart. However, I didn't buy it or fully Install it. It was like a test run and then they wanted me to pay almost $100 for it. Thankfully, I didn't because I read it is Malware. I spoke with an Apple Tech at Apple Care and he helped me get rid of it (or so we think). I don't see it anymore on my computer. I read it can slow down your computer. How can you tell if it's really off of the computer?
2) When I open "Finder" and I see that there are people Sharing my computer with me. I went into AirDrop and it reads, "Other people can see your Mac as (my name) MacBook Air when their computer is nearby." I bought a HotSpot and while it's turned on and I selected it as my WI-FI connection I thought it would get rid of these people, protect what I type, me, my items, computer, etc. But it didn't.
I didn't know that I have to buy a exteral CD and/or DVD Player in order to connect to the brand new Modem and Router in one by NetGear. I am so used to PCs and the CD/DVD Players being built inside.
The people at Apple Store told me that there is an internal modem inside, but I don't know how to find it and what to do then. Should I use a Firewall?, An AntiVirus, AntiMalware, AntiSpyware, etc. Apple Care tech told me I don't need to get an AntiVirus.
3) Is there a new kind of Wireless Modem and Router that doesn't require a CD-ROM?
4) When I travel or fly and I am not close to home I was told by Best Buy and Sprint that I had to buy a mobile HotSpot to use the computer (WI-FI) safely. As I typed, I have one. But it's pretty expensive and only gives me 1 hour and 15 minutes per day to Stream. What can I do to use this computer safely Online when I am out of range from a Modem and Router? What do people do when they travel on airplanes?
5) This compter won't let me use "Raid." I think you have to have a newer version. I hard about Raid on the radio from Leo (can't recall his last name) who's a Tech expert.
6) Should I buy a ZipDrive? Apple Store Tech told me that I didn't need a ZipDrive. I just remember the episode of HBO's "Sex and The City" when Carrie looses everything because her copy crashed. Now, of course, I know that's a fictional show, but with PC's and Microsoft I have lost everything when it crashed, frooze up, etc. I know there's iClouds. I heard about Carbonite, but I have read the Pros and Cons about it. Mostly they are Cons about it. I just don't want to do anything wrong and mess up this computer.
7) Should I buy a new Printer/Copier/Scanner because mine is an HP. It's not new, but it works. I even have a CD-ROM for Macs. What about the new product called, "Neat"?
8) Is there a special product that I should buy to do Online Banking and/or other important stuff?
9) I saw and read about iWork in the Apps Store and it sounds cool. I still have alot of friends and colleagues who still use Microsoft. Is iWork good to use? Should I Download it from the Apple Apps Store or can a buy it at Apple? Is there another Word Processing Program that is great and user friendly and will work with Macs and PCs?
10) Should I Update the OS with OS X Mountian Lion Pro from the Apple Apps Store or buy it at Apple Store?
In advance, I wish to thank you in this Apple Support Communites for your help. Have a safe and happy holiday weekend!

1) Here are instructions for removing MacKeeper. Since it mostly consists of manually looking for folders and specific files, if you follow the instructions you either fail to find what you are told to find (because your AppleCare guide gave you complete instructions which you followed) or you'll find some additional files that need to be replaced.
2 & 3) I assume you are looking at the sidebar of a Finder window and seeing Shared and computers under it. Those are computers that you can potentionally share. To do so you'd need an account on their computer and a password. They are not sharing your computer.
AirDrop allows you to create an adhoc network for filesharing and it only functions when you have selected the AirDop item in the SideBar. Actually doing that merely announces to computers in the same network node that your computer is available for a file to be sent to. Even then you have to explicitly allow the file to be downloaded to your computer. Similarly you'd be able to see other computers with AirDrop selected and be able to send them a file - which they'd have to accept.
The only reason your NetGear Router comes with a CD is to install and run their 'easy' step by step configuration program. It can also be done manually with a browser. Read the manual to find the IP address you must enter to access the router's configuration menu. Apple's WiFi routers don't require a CD to install the software because the configuration software is already on your computer.
I do have my firewall turned on. AntiVirus software isn't a bad idea - I use Sophos having tested it for a review for our local User Group and I found I liked it better than ClamAVx which is what I'd been using before. Both are free.
4) I think you were scammed by Sprint and BestBuy. I use hotel, coffee shop, and restaurant WiFi spots and have for years. However, because they can be unsecured, I do not shop online or bank when I'm using them. I also use 1Password and don't reuse passwords so even if a sniffer should grab an account and password that's all it would get - one account.
5) Raid doesn't really make sense with a MacBook Air - a RAID involves 2 or more disks being used as if they were one.
6) Zip drive? No. External hard drive - yes. It isn't a question of if a computer's hard drive will malfunction, it is when. OWC has a nice selection of external drives and the Mac has a built in backup system called TimeMachine. Due to the way TimeMachine works, I've found that your TimeMachine drive should be at least twice as large - and preferably 3-4 times as large as the data you are backing up.
7) if your printer works and it has Mountain Lion drivers, why replace it?
8) Online banking is done with a browser - Use Safari or FireFox
9) If trading files with Windows users is important Mac: Office is your best bet. If not, iWork, Mac:Office, or LibreOffice are all good possibilities.
10) you can only buy Mt Lion via the App Store.

A few questions about the ka790gx and dka790gx

i have a few questions about the ka790gx and dka790gx , how much better is the dka790gx compaired to the ka790gx ? . how much difference does the ACC function make to overclocking etc , i plan on getting a phenom II 940BE or 720BE . i already have the ka790gx so would it be worth building another system using the dka790gx mobo , or should i keep what i already have and just change the cpu ?

It's largely irrelevant what other boards had VRM issues other than the KA790GX - the fact is it died at stock settings. Since there is little cost difference between the more robust DKA790GX (or Platinum if you really need 1394) why bother with the proven weakling? There are other examples around of the KA not having a robust power section. There's no way I would use even a 95W TDP CPU in the KA and absolutely not O/C.....!
As for the credentials of Custom PC, I have generally found their reviews accurate and balanced, and echo my own findings where applicable. If a little too infrequent.
The fact that the KA has such a huge VRM heatsink leads me to my other comments on the Forum, particularly regarding the "fudge" aspect:
"""Henry is spot on - the notion that adding a heatsink to the top of the D2PAK or whatever MOSFETS is effective is virtually worthless. The device's die thermal junction is the tab on the device back - which is always against the PCB pad. The majority of heat is therefore dissipated in to the board, and the fact that the epoxy plastic encapsulation gets hot is simply due to the inability of the heat to be conducted away from the device die via the tab. Not sure when Epoxy become an effective conductor of heat.... Good practice is to increase the size of the PCB pad (or "land" in American) such that the enlarged PCB copper area acts as an adequate heatsink. This is still not as effective as clamping a power device tab to an actual piece of ali or copper, but since the devices used are SMD devices, this is not possible. However, the surface area required to provide sufficient PCB copper area to act as a heatsink for several devices isn't available in the current motherboard layouts. Where industrial SBC designs differ in this respect is to place the VRM MOSFETs on the back of the PCB on very enlarged PCB pads - where real estate for components is not an issue.
Gigabyte's UD3 2oz copper mainboards sound like a good idea, on the face of it. However, without knowing how they have connected the device tabs to where and what remains a mystery. I suspect it is more hype than solution, although there will be some positive effect. From an electrical perspective, having lower resistance connecting whatever to whatever (probably just a 0V plane) is no bad thing.
The way the likes of ASUS sort of get round the problem is to increase the sheer number of MOSFET devices and effectively spread the heat dissipation over a larger physical area. This works to a degree, there is the same amount of heat being dissipated, but over several more square inches. The other advantage of this is that each leg of the VRM circuit passes less current and therefore localised heat is reduced. Remember that as well as absolute peak operating temperature causing reduced component life, thermal cycling stresses the mechanical aspects of components (die wire bonds for example) as well as the solder joints on the board. Keeping components at a relatively constant temperature, even if this is high (but within operating temperature limits), is a means of promoting longevity.
For myself, the first thing I do with a seperate VRM heatsink is take it off and use a quiet fan to blow air on to the VRM area of the PCB - this is where the heat is. This has the added benefit of actively cooling the inductors and capacitors too....
Cooling the epoxy component body is a fudge. If the epoxy (and thus any heatsink plonked on top of it) is running at 60C, the component die is way above that.....
It's better than nothing, but only just."""

A few questions about my MacBook Pro?

Hey guys, I have a few questions about Virtual Machines and a few other random questions.
1. Which one is the most "complete" in its features when compared to a plain install of Win. 7?
2. Which VM should I purchase?
I have a 15" late 2012 MacBook Pro with a 2.6 ghz intel i7, 16gb ram and a 256gb SSD. (I was planning on running it off of an external hard drive— if that is possible)
3. I have 206.12 GB of 255.2 GB free— should I just use boot camp instead?
4. If I use Boot Camp, do I have to delete the data that's on my Mac currently to install Win. 7 or can I partition my current drive and keep my data?
5. What is the "other" data that's taking up 25.51 GB of space on my SSD? (I have the same problem on my iPhone, but that's a different problem.)
Thank you very much.

You posted your Boot Camp questions in the MacBook Pro forum. Try asking in the Boot Camp forum where the Boot Camp gurus hang out. https://discussions.apple.com/community/windows_software/boot_camp

A few questions about the ETF

Hello, I have Verizon Home Phone Connect and had a few questions about canceling the service.
1. When I cancel the service will I have to pay the ETF right then and there? Or will I get a bill for it?
2. After paying the ETF will I have to return the device or can I keep it?
3. Once I have paid the ETF will I receive an invoice (or receipt) as proof that I have paid?
4. Will canceling affect my credit negatively?

1, You will get a bill for the ETF as well as the final month of service.
2. You can keep the device as long as you are past the initial 14 day term. If you purchased from third party retailer, that retailer may have additional conditions. Check your paperwork.
3. Yes. The same as any other payment you make.
4. No, as long as you pay in full all that you owe.
http://www.verizonwireless.com/b2c/support/customer-agreement
WHAT HAPPENS IF MY POSTPAY SERVICE IS CANCELED BEFORE THE END OF MY CONTRACT TERM?
If you're signing up for Postpay Service, you're agreeing to subscribe to a line of Service either on a month–to–month basis or for a minimum contract term, as shown on your receipt or order confirmation. (If your Service is suspended without billing, that time doesn't count toward completing your contract term.) Once you've completed your contract term, you'll automatically become a customer on a month–to–month basis for that line of Service. If you cancel a line of Service, or if we cancel it for good cause, during its contract term, you'll have to pay an early termination fee. If your contract term results from your purchase of an advanced device, your early termination fee will be $350 minus $10 for each full month of your contract term that you complete. Otherwise, your early termination fee will be $175 minus $5 for each full month of your contract term that you complete. Cancellations will become effective on the last day of that month's billing cycle, and you are responsible for all charges incurred until then. Also, if you bought your wireless device from an authorized agent or third–party vendor, you should check whether they charge a separate termination fee.

A few questions about the Catalyst driver...

I was wondering a few things about the Catalyst (fglrx) driver.
1. Is it really that big of a performance difference between the os drivers?
2. Does it crash a lot (is it known to?)
3. I tried to install, and it says it conflicts with libgl. libgl has a bunch of other stuff that depends on it. How can I get around that?
Thats it. I'll look around some more and see if I can find anything on my own.

offtopic:
z.s.tar.gz wrote:Now, I think I am going to get an nvidia card, but I don't know which one...
depends on what you're about to do.
i wanted a cheap and a power saving card, but with common 3d features.
if you have a pcie slot i'd really recommend the nvidia 7600 GS (note _not GT_) without active cooling (fan).
though you need some good case cooling while playing/load.
it consumes about 10W (idle) to 35W (heavy load) and is powerful enough to play doom3, halflife2 or nexuiz in high resolution.
but even if you don't play (actually i started playing some old games again when i bought this card), it's the least power-consuming nvidia card i found.
i bought it on ebay for 17€ incl. shipping. (like this one: http://cgi.ebay.de/NVIDIA-GeForce-7600- … C294%3A50)
ontopic:
it's a pity with amd/ati graphics chips. the HW is good, the boards with the HD3200 chipsets are great, but the support/drivers are so miserable that it is mostly impossible for users to use them!
the OS drivers are good, but what's the sense of buying a 3d-card/chipset if the drivers do not support this feature.
however, hope this helps.
vlad
ps: and no, i am not a nvidia marketing guy
Last edited by DonVla (2009-05-20 10:02:53)

Few questions about the recording

Hi,
I'm intersting in adding recording/playback option to my webcam application and i have few questions regarding the recording functionality:
1. My webcam app is using P2P connection, will the recording stop my P2P?
2. Will the recording create some latency in the audio/video?
3. can i change the quality of the recording?
4. is there away to encrypt the archived zip file?
Thanks,
Tzahi

1) yes, currently recording is always hub&spoke (and we don't have a real plan to support recording with p2p since it would require a substantial amount of changes in the server-side application)
2) no, recording is independent from streaming
3) no - I believe recordings are stored at the quality they are streamed. In theory you could re-encode audio and video stream to a lower quality for playback and repackage the zip file (assuming re-encoding the stream doesn't change the internal timestamps)
4) currently not. We are simply using the "zip" command (on *nix) to archive the files so in theory we could add the password/encryption option but that would require for you to store the required password on our servers and for us to pass it on the command-line making the process not very secure anyway.
Any specific reason to keep your archives on your servers encrypted ?

A few Questions about the iTunes Store

Hi, I have a couple questions about the store. First of all, can I use an iTUnes card to buy games for my iPod? Second, if I buy games/songs using my account, can I upload those games/songs onto multiple iPods? I ask this because me and my sister own iPods, and we don't want to waste money buying the same game twice.
Thanks in advance.

First of all, can I use an iTUnes card to buy games for my iPod
Yes.
Second, if I buy games/songs using my account, can I upload those games/songs onto multiple iPods?
Yes; the iPods need to be set to sync with that account or manually.
(35218)

A few questions about the FCE interface

I'm new at FCE, but I've done video editing for a few years in Windows (Vegas Movie Studio mostly, it was pretty good but limited in the number of video and audio tracks). I've finally made the jump to Mac and I'm excited getting started. The ability to do keyframes and motion is outstanding and I can't wait to play with LiveType and Soundtrack.
There's a few things I'm not sure I understand about the FCE interface. I'm working on my first project and it's going to me mostly made up of short (4-10 second) video clips and still photos (with pan and zoom and some motion) and background music. I've done several of these in the past in other software, this project is my learning one for FCE.
However, I can't understand why some things happen they way they do. If I drag a clip or still from the bin to somewhere in the middle of my existing sequence where there are no items on the video track, it 'parts the seas', moving all video on all tracks to the right and cuts my audio track wide open leaving a huge gap to make room for the clip or still even if it has no audio. The same thing happens in reverse if I'm deleting a still or clip, it chops it out and scoots everything over. I think I want to manage my own gaps rather than FCE trying to manage it for me. Does this have something to do with ripple editing - something that I must not have learned in my Windows video editing experience?
I've ordered a few tutorial books based on recommendations in this forum, they're on their way. I didn't expect to be immediately proficient, but it seems I'm not understanding something fundamental about the interface.
There's other questions too, like when I move a video clip from one track to another (up or down, not left or right), why does it move the audio portion of that clip to another audio track? Sometimes it stomps on something I already had on that track. Can't I unlink those somehow?
When I bring two clips or stills together and attempt to overlap them (which I think should mean I'm doing some type of transition), it seems to just truncate one or the other. I suppose I just need to get used to that?
Thanks for any suggestions you may have.
iMac 20" intel Mac OS X (10.4.10)

You need to get comfortable with targeting your tracks and, as mentioned, locking off tracks you don't want to affect.
You say you want to add a clip/still to the "middle" of a sequence ... I take it there are clips to either side of this spot that you don't want to affect. Then I would set In and Out (I and O) points in the timeline to define the space you want the clip to occupy. If you don't want audio to carry over, then lock off whatever audio tracks you have edited. Then do an Overwrite by either dragging the clip to the far right of the screen to get the Overwrite pop up or by using the F10 key.
The Delete key to the right of your keyboard (sometimes under the help key) does a ripple delete. The Delete key under the number keys (sometimes a backspace key) removes a highlighted portion of video without rippling the timeline.
If you lay in a new clip with audio and don't want to affect an existing track, target a separate set .. so if you have a clip on V1 with its audio on A1/A2 and you want to overwrite the video but add new audio, target V1 and A3/A4.
As to overlapping clips .. if you want to use transitions, overwrite your first clip. Overwrite the second right up against it .. don't try to overlap. Now select your transition and drop it down between the two clips. NOTE: FCE needs handles ... like about a spare 15 frames of info on both clips
I strongly reccomend Tom Wolsky's book on FCE. It has tutorials and is a great way to start. I've never used Vegas but FCE is a very deep program ... it takes time, practise and patience (and you online manual is a great resource too)

A few questions about the Zen Mi

I'm looking into the Zen Micro 5GB, and I have a few questions that I couldn't find on the sight or aren't completely sure of. Sorry if I'm just blind and didn't see them, but I figured you guys could help.
) How do you charge the battery? I'm assuming its with some sort of adapter, and if so, is it included with the player?
2) It says Windows 98SE is compatible, so does this mean regular Windows 98 won't work at all? I'm currently using W98 but will probably be upgrading soon so it chouldn't be too much of a problem, but if W98 is supported I could order it sooner.
3) Will it work in tandem with a cassette adapter for a car? A cassette adapter isn't on the accessories page, but will one I already own work just fine?
Those are all I can think of right now, thanks in advance for your help, and feel free to leave any comments about the player that any of you have.

the headphone jack problem is not really fixed. If you rather not have it happen to early, i would suggest you take really good care of your ZM's headphone jack. Just take good care of it. But the headphone jack problem may occur at any point, i dunno why. it is very strange, some owners are lucky that the problem will occur in 6-2 months or maybe not at all for now. There are some owners that are unlucky that the problem may occurred like 2 weeks to couople months. I am currently trying to take really good care of my ZM after all the great lessons i learned from my previous mp3 players.
the headphone jack problem isn't fix, so be cautious a bit.

Few questions about the iMac I ordered.

Hi,
I ordered an 400MHZ,128MB,DVD-ROM,13GB,OS9,2FW,2USB slotloading iMac and while I wait for it I want to ask a few questions.
1. Is there anyway to connect anything serial to it? I have alot of other Apple stuff like my other older Macs and Newton that I want to connect to it.
2. Will Tiger run smoothly with 512MB? How about 256MB?
3. Can I upgrade the processor? Like to a 500MHZ or better a GHZ?
4. I have disks from my previous iMac (Slot Loading) will they work with this one?
5. I need firmware updates! Where to get them?
6. No floppy? Can I get an external?
7. How much fater then a 604ev 300MHZ?
8. Can I run a game that requires a 1 GHZ processor on my iMac? This may sound like a silly question but I really never tried it!
9. Is it noisy like my PowerMac 8600/300?
10. Can I upgrade it to OS 9.2.2 without MacOShelper?
11. It has OS 9.0.4 can I just install OS 9.2.2 without the need of installing OS 9.1,OS 9.2.1?
12. Is the HDD upgradable? To what?
13. VRAM is going to be a problem! Can I upgrade it?
14. Can I connect a VGA or APPLE monitor to it for an extra display?
15. Will the built in monitor support 800x600,1024x768 resolution?
16. Can I change the color of it?
17. Max RAM?
18. DVD-RW compatible?
19. Internal floppy compatible?
20. CD-RW compatible?
Thanks all You dont need to answer them all just answer as many as you can please!

1) you can get serial to USb adaptors. How well they work I can't vouch for. If its something that is replaceable by a newer version, its often cheaper to do so.
2) 256 megs is about the minimum it will run with. 512 would be much better, 1 gig of ram would be best. see ramseeker.com and crucial.com
3) fastmac.com is the only place I know of that does any upgrades on slot loaders anymore. its expensive, and not worth it. If you wanted a faster machine, you should have bought one frankly. a used eMac could be gotten cheap and be better in every way.
4) depends. if they are form the same generation, then yes. If not, then it could be questionable.
5) firmware updates are easily accesible from apples software download section of their support page. you need firmware update 4.1.9 for a slot loader, and it must be installed before installing OS X.
6) Do you really need a floppy? Cripes, get a USB keychain drive. They are like 20 bucks and will work on any machine. Hold way more than a floppy to and are smaller. If you really need them, then yes, floppy drives are available externally.
7) hard to quantify exactly how much faster, but a G3 is a much better chip than the 604 from all accounts I've read. you might find benchmarks somewhere like xlr8yourmac.com
8) Doubtful you can run a game where you don't meet the minimum specs. Not just because of the processor speed, but some require G4's (G3's never made it that fast), or better graphics cards than are in that iMac.
9) a slot loader is essentially silent when sleeping. There's no fan to make a lot of noise. S light hum form the CRT and the hard drive is all the noise there will be. Its one of the quietest machines ever made by anyone.
10) I don't even know what macoshelper is, but upgrading to 9.2 is a pretty painless procedure and doesn't require anything other than the downloaded upgrade.
11) you need 9.1 before going to 9.2 unless you have a full retail install of 9.2.
12) hard drive i upgradeable to 137 gigs. 7200 rpm drives are fine. external drives have no limit on them.
13) vram is not upgradeable.
14) that model iMac has a vga port on the back of it, but its for mirroring only, not extended desktop.
15) yes, the monitor supports both those resolutions.
16) not easily. you'd have to find an empty case and swap out parts, which means exposing some of the stuff in the CRT, which you do NOT want to mess with unless you know what you are doing.
17) max ram is two 512 meg chips for 1 gig.
18) DVD-RW's should work, but any burned media can be dodgy. Note this is for reading only. There's no burner. You could upgrade to a burner, but it would be sssssllllllooooooowwwwwwww.
19) internal floppy is not possible.
20) cd-rw will read fine, but again, it doesn't have a burner on it. You could upgrade internal or external.

A Few Questions About The GTX 580 Twin Frozr/OC in SLI

Hi everyone!
I have a few questions if you guys don't mind answering them, first thing though to make it clear this system is not built yet but the build will start soon.
My first question is whether or not this PSU is capable of running two GTX 580 Twin Frozr/OC in SLI:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139015&Tpk=AX850
+3.3V@25A, +5V@25A, +12V1@70A, [email protected], +5VSB@3A
My second question is whether or not the GTX 580 Twin Frozr/OC will come with a SLI bridge connector long enough to accomplish a connection over this distance:
If not where can I buy a bridge capable of accomplishing this?, the reason for this distance is to keep the bottom card from pushing air onto the top one.
The above is a normal ATX form factor motherboard or to be more specific a ASRock P67 EXTREME6.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157231

Quote
EDIT-
I'm looking at the picture right now and it looks like the bridge that comes with the motherboard is not long enough, any suggestions on where to buy one?
nope no idea, ask your reseller
Quote
I didn't mean the Watts I mean the Amps, from other threads in this board it seems that some PSU's aren't up to the task of supplying the card with enough Amps, I was wondering if that PSU could supply enough for both.
Well you can figure from the graph
With one VGA it drains total 447W, where single 580GTX need 40A-42A,
adding second the same VGA to the system drains total 719W
So 719-447=272W, 272W/12=23A, 42A+23A=65A
or simple 719/12=60A
Quote
BTW, I would also like to say I'm currently using a MSI board in my current build and I love it!

A few questions about the design of the scheme

Hello, all!
I want ask some question about design of the scheme.
1) If i store info about user (for example: /Smith/Bob - /phone values{+1 964 258 46 52}), i can request information by user (input parameters: /Smith/Bob - /phone, output:+1 964 258 46 52), but if i want get username by phone i must generate in store second string /19642584652 values{Smith Bob}. But I must duplicate any string - very prodigally. Are existing some work aruond?
2) if i want store some string with different minor key i put: ( /Smith/Bob - /phone, /Smith/Bob - /image, /Smith/Bob - /adress), but i already get duplicate date. Are existing any compressin major`s key? If yes - how it works
3) Are existing in Oracle NoSQL something like secondary index? If exist - how it works?
4) If i want get value by major key, im use get function(for example /Smith/Bob - /phone). How works searching algoritm? What mathematical basis of search?

>
So, some a few clarifying questions.
1) Request comes from the client(to cluster). It identifies the major key. And any rep group understand: contained in it is this line?
2) If contains - they use b-tree map to find the right key (as local index in Oracle DB).
Is it correct?
>
No. Please read the doc and the other forum threads. They explain this issue.
>
Can i use any different algoritm to search, different indexes(function based) for example (on step 2)?
>
No.
when the expected release of this option?Oracle employees cannot talk about future release dates and contents.
What algorithm used to compress the prefix of the key. And how it work`s.If you're interested in the implementation details you can read the BDB JE documentation on key prefixing and the BDB JE source code. See com.sleepycat.je.DatabaseConfig.setKeyPrefixing.
http://docs.oracle.com/cd/E17277_02/html/index.html
--mark

A few questions about the Apple TV

Hi guys. I'm planning on getting an Apple TV but have a few questions. Before I start asking, I gotta mention that my internet connection is limited to 25GB.
1) I'll be using my Apple TV to stream music and movies off my PC running iTunes. Both will be on the same wifi network. Will it use my data to stream?
2) will it use my data when I'm using AirPlay to mirror my iPad to my Apple TV?
3) I have all my music in the cloud. If I'm playing music off the cloud and not streaming from my PC, it will use my data right? But does it save my music on its internal storage so I can listen to them later? Without internet? Or does it download songs every time I play them?
4) Does my photo stream get saved on its internal storage?
5) I'll have it hooked up to a 1080p tv. When watching YouTube on it, can I set the YouTube videos to play in 360p? Or 480p? Even though my tv is 1080p?
Pretty long, I know. Thanks :)

Thanks a lot for the help. So I can stream movies and music from my PC to my Apple TV without using data correct? And airplay mirroring doesn't use wifi either? Brilliant.
So whenever I turn on my Apple TV, it re downloads my photo stream? Every single time?
So it doesn't play YouTube videos at 360p. Alright. What if I'm playing a 360p YouTube video on my iphone and then mirror it to my Apple TV? Does it automatically load a 1080p version of that video or does it just play the 360p video?

A few questions about the Macbook Air

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