A possible solution for pushing subscribed calendars to iOS devices

This one has been bugging me for a while and the solutions I've found here and elsewhere didn't work for me.
The problem: I subscribe to four sports schedules via iCloud. I have them set up on an iMac running 10.9.5 and all are configured as iCloud subscriptions. All events show up on the iMac and also on my MacBook. Events from two of those calendars would show up on my iOS devices. Two would not.
Looking into it today, I noticed that on the two that worked, the URL for the subscription (the "subscribed to" field when you do Get Info for the calendar on the Mac) is a URL that ends at the file suffix ".ics". The two that did not work had HTTP parameters that followed the ".ics" at the end (a '?' after ".ics" and a bunch of text following).
On the iMac, I tried removing the parameters so that the URLs ended in ".ics" for those two calendars. And just like that, all of the events now show up on my iOS devices.
Just thought I'd put this out there in case it is the same situation others are running into.

I've done something similar, but I couldn't never get rid of the buffer delay. I had to go to UDP and a custom sliding window protocol, but the the clients have firewall troubles.
TCP stream, client opens?

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Buy my problem of camels Store Lee games possible solution for me my problem?

Buy my problem of camels Store Lee games possible solution for me my problem?

This worked for me, sort of. A while back when I downloaded that windows update that installed the new version of IE, I noticed that IE wouldn't connect to the internet and pages wouldn't load. However, I thought nothing of it because I use Firefox and FF was working just fine.
I went into IE earlier this evening (it still wasn't working) and tried to follow your recommended steps. I got up to step 4 and IE froze. I tried closing it, reopening it and repeating the steps but it would always freeze at step 4. In another thread, someone was saying that iTunes released a security update and that fixed the store for them so I tried opening Apple Software Update and that froze. I tried it several times, nothing. Would always freeze. I even tried updating thru iTunes and IT would freeze.
Finally, I went to the control panel and uninstalled IE7. The iTunes store and the Apple Software Update program are now working! So thank you very much for your suggestion. Otherwise, it may have never clicked with me that IE was the problem.
Windows XP

PrintWindow api with possible solution for capture screenshot Google Chrome window

Hi,
as all you know, PrintWindow api give us a black image when us want a capture screenshot of Google Chrome window. So, a friend said me that a possible solution for this problem is:
Reduce Google Chrome window for -1px in both sides and after this, reset to original size. And so, will repaint again.
Based on code below, someone could help me make this? sincerely I don't know where begin.
[DllImport("user32.dll", SetLastError = true)]
static extern IntPtr FindWindow(string lpClassName, string lpWindowName);
[DllImport("user32.dll", SetLastError = true)]
static extern IntPtr FindWindowEx(IntPtr hwndParent, IntPtr hwndChildAfter, string lpszClass, string lpszWindow);
[DllImport("user32.dll")]
private static extern IntPtr GetDC(IntPtr WindowHandle);
[DllImport("user32.dll")]
private static extern void ReleaseDC(IntPtr WindowHandle, IntPtr DC);
[DllImport("user32.dll")]
private static extern IntPtr GetWindowRect(IntPtr WindowHandle, ref Rect rect);
[DllImport("User32.dll", SetLastError = true)]
[return: MarshalAs(UnmanagedType.Bool)]
static extern bool PrintWindow(IntPtr hwnd, IntPtr hDC, uint nFlags);
[StructLayout(LayoutKind.Sequential)]
private struct Rect
public int Left;
public int Top;
public int Right;
public int Bottom;
public static Bitmap Capture(IntPtr handle)
Rect rect = new Rect();
GetWindowRect(handle, ref rect);
Bitmap Bmp = new Bitmap(rect.Right - rect.Left, rect.Bottom - rect.Top);
Graphics memoryGraphics = Graphics.FromImage(Bmp);
IntPtr dc = memoryGraphics.GetHdc();
bool success = PrintWindow(handle, dc, 0);
memoryGraphics.ReleaseHdc(dc);
return Bmp;
private void button1_Click(object sender, EventArgs e)
IntPtr WindowHandle = FindWindowEx(IntPtr.Zero, IntPtr.Zero, "Chrome_WidgetWin_1", null);
Bitmap BMP = Capture(WindowHandle);
BMP.Save("C:\\Foo.bmp");
BMP.Dispose();
Any suggestions here is appreciated.

Hello,
I would prefer capture the screen rather than get it from that application directly.
It has been discussed in the following thread.
Is there any way to hide Chrome window and capture a screenshot or convert the Chrome window to image?
In this case, you could remove the line "ShowWindowAsync(mainHandle, 0); " since you don't want to hide it.
using System;
using System.Runtime.InteropServices;
using System.Diagnostics;
using System.Drawing.Imaging;
[DllImport("user32.dll")]
private static extern bool ShowWindowAsync(IntPtr hWnd, int nCmdShow);
[DllImport("user32.dll")]
public static extern bool GetWindowRect(IntPtr hWnd, out RECT lpRect);
[DllImport("user32.dll")]
public static extern bool PrintWindow(IntPtr hWnd, IntPtr hdcBlt, int nFlags);
public WhateverMethod()
//initialize process and get hWnd
Process chrome = Process.Start("chrome.exe","http://www.cnn.com");
//wait for chrome window to open AND page to load (important for process refresh)
//you might need to increase the sleep time for the page to load or monitor the "loading" title on Chrome
System.Threading.Thread.Sleep(4000);
chrome.Refresh();
IntPtr mainHandle = chrome.MainWindowHandle;
RECT rc;
GetWindowRect(mainHandle, out rc);
Bitmap bmp = new Bitmap(rc.Width, rc.Height, PixelFormat.Format32bppArgb);
Graphics gfxBmp = Graphics.FromImage(bmp);
IntPtr hdcBitmap = gfxBmp.GetHdc();
PrintWindow(mainHandle, hdcBitmap, 0);
gfxBmp.ReleaseHdc(hdcBitmap);
gfxBmp.Dispose();
bmp.Save("c:\\temp\\test.png", ImageFormat.Png);
ShowWindowAsync(mainHandle, 0);
[StructLayout(LayoutKind.Sequential)]
public struct RECT
private int _Left;
private int _Top;
private int _Right;
private int _Bottom;
public RECT(RECT Rectangle)
: this(Rectangle.Left, Rectangle.Top, Rectangle.Right, Rectangle.Bottom)
public RECT(int Left, int Top, int Right, int Bottom)
_Left = Left;
_Top = Top;
_Right = Right;
_Bottom = Bottom;
public int X
get { return _Left; }
set { _Left = value; }
public int Y
get { return _Top; }
set { _Top = value; }
public int Left
get { return _Left; }
set { _Left = value; }
public int Top
get { return _Top; }
set { _Top = value; }
public int Right
get { return _Right; }
set { _Right = value; }
public int Bottom
get { return _Bottom; }
set { _Bottom = value; }
public int Height
get { return _Bottom - _Top; }
set { _Bottom = value + _Top; }
public int Width
get { return _Right - _Left; }
set { _Right = value + _Left; }
public Point Location
get { return new Point(Left, Top); }
set
_Left = value.X;
_Top = value.Y;
public Size Size
get { return new Size(Width, Height); }
set
_Right = value.Width + _Left;
_Bottom = value.Height + _Top;
public static implicit operator Rectangle(RECT Rectangle)
return new Rectangle(Rectangle.Left, Rectangle.Top, Rectangle.Width, Rectangle.Height);
public static implicit operator RECT(Rectangle Rectangle)
return new RECT(Rectangle.Left, Rectangle.Top, Rectangle.Right, Rectangle.Bottom);
public static bool operator ==(RECT Rectangle1, RECT Rectangle2)
return Rectangle1.Equals(Rectangle2);
public static bool operator !=(RECT Rectangle1, RECT Rectangle2)
return !Rectangle1.Equals(Rectangle2);
public override string ToString()
return "{ + _Left + "; " + " + _Top + "; Right: " + _Right + "; Bottom: " + _Bottom + "}";
public override int GetHashCode()
return ToString().GetHashCode();
public bool Equals(RECT Rectangle)
return Rectangle.Left == _Left && Rectangle.Top == _Top && Rectangle.Right == _Right && Rectangle.Bottom == _Bottom;
public override bool Equals(object Object)
if (Object is RECT)
return Equals((RECT)Object);
else if (Object is Rectangle)
return Equals(new RECT((Rectangle)Object));
return false;
And the key method used is the one shared in
Get a screenshot of a specific application.
Regards,
Carl
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Solution for family shared calendar using Mobile Me

Hello,
I don't think this issue has been resolved. Here's what we did:
Home computer is running the lastest update 10.6.4 ical is set to my (primary mobile account). It is a caldav account set to push. My iphone is set-up using a mobile account set on push(fetch data).
My Wife's iphone for the calendar to set to only cal.me.com. To set-up go to Mail/contacts/calendar (chose other) now chose caldav. Use the exact settings on the second iphone that you have on your home computer under ical- (your mobileMe user and password- with the server set to cal.me.com...
All subscribed calendars must be entered on each phone. With this you both can add edit and delete events in real time
I hope this helps, sorry if already posted.

Since no one has used Mobile Me, you will probably get the best answers currently available to all of us by reading the two links provided by Apple which are located at the top of the .Mac Discussions Category page: http://discussions.apple.com/category.jspa?categoryID=116
;~)

Invalid ELF Heder [possible solution, for the unlucky]

well i duno whre to post this, but whatevr..
[woffle]
yesterday i found that for whatever reason a lot of apps stop working ,
and instead started complaining about libc.so..6 having an invalid ELF Header... [?] i dunno, that was before and after the upgrade to the 2.5 version...
anyay, i googled it and found a few random users with this problem, so i knew it had nothign to do with anything.. prolly just the unlucky ones lol..
[possible solution]
anways... i managed to fix it [i think] by linking /usr/lib/libc.so.6 to /lib/libc.so.*2.5 instead of /usr/lib/libc.so
[add]
/usr/lib/libc.so is an ld-script btw. duno if it should be that way..
i'd file a bug report, but as i said.. it just happened out of teh blue, i did no sys up/down-grades , compiles, nothing... apart form install kdebase to get kate...

Hi Florin,
Check person type useage also. coz When Employee.Ex-Applicant' person type changes to 'Employee.Applicant', no other actions can be processed for that person.
Kind Regards,

How to get reminders for shared iCloud-calendar on iOS?

Hi there,
Does anyone know how to get reminders to work for shared iCloud-calendar in iPhone?
I "own" the calendar and have shared it with my whife and she has full acces to it.
We use the calendar for events that we both wan't to have reminders for but we can't get it to work!
If I create an event I get the reminder but not my whife and the same if she creats the event, then I don't get any reminder.
I checked in icloud.com and there are no reminders set in the event that she creted!
I have a 4s with iOS6 and my whife have a 3Gs that runs iOS5 (latest).
Best
Jonas Ericsson

I think you're seeing a limitation of Apples sharing of calendars. It seems Apple may even be moving away from any sharing. If you use the Reminder program for shared todo lists the only option for sharing now is the app in Mountain lion. Once shared it can been seen on all devices but the fact you can no longer initiate sharing from iCloud or an iOS device is not good news for sharing.
Seems very un Apple like not to have the best method for sharing this stuff. I have found it incredibly useful for my wife and I. I have put in feedback requesting better sharing and would encourage anyone needing this stuff to do the same.
As a side note the 3GS can be updated to ios 6. Seems to run well on my 3 gs.

Is it possible to sync an up to date iOS device on an outdated iTunes? (Related to my love about iTunes 11)

So, I love updating my apps, operating systems and software. The moment iTunes 11 released, I updated it and loved it. But I have some friends that don't care about updating at all, and every time we meet, I steal their iPhones and iPod touches and update all their apps. (They kinda let me, I think they're just lazy). But I'm afraid one of them will be reluctant to update to iTunes 11, and in my perfect world no one can be outdated. Is it possible to sync an updated iOS (like the upcoming 7, and then 8) to an old iTunes like 10.6? I really need to know this to feel good, because if you have to be on an up to date iTunes to sync your updated iOS device, I know that one day they will be forced against their will to update to the new iTunes version, and I will feel great :)
Any kind answers will be appreciated.

Was the iPod previous synced to another iTunes library/computer?
Have you successfully synced from this iTunes library/computer before?
If so have you done anything like update iTunes on the computer since it last successfully synced?
Do the songs play in iTunes?
Does any media now sync to the iPod?
Do you have the right boxes checked to sync?
iTunes: Syncing media content to iOS devices and iPod
Try syncing using the manual method
Managing content manually on iPhone, iPad, and iPod
- Restore from backup. See:
iOS: Back up and restore your iOS device with iCloud or iTunes

Possible solution for problems printing with ICC profiles - esp. R2400

(N.B. This is long because I've decided to go in to details about the background of the problem etc.. Also note that whilst my experience is with the Epson R2400, anyone with problems printing using ICC profiles in Aperture may find this post helpful, as will be explained further down the post.)
Ok, here's the situation. I've been an Aperture user for over a year, and an R2400 owner for half a year. In that time I have done a huge amount of experimenting, but I've never managed to get Aperture to work perfectly with Epson's 'premium' R2400 ICC profiles - the ones you can download from their site which are better than the ones provided 'in the box'. This hasn't been too big a deal because, in fact, the R2400 does a rather good job just set to 'System Managed' in Aperture and 'Epson Vivid' with a gamma of 1.8 in the printer driver. Nevertheless, it really annoyed me that something that should work wasn't, which is why I've spent a lot of time trying to figure out what's going on. Having said that, I have come across a method which will give you pretty good prints out of your Epson R2400 using the premium profiles in Aperture - it's not perfect, but it's the best you're going to get if you want to use those profiles in Aperture. I understand the words 'it's not perfect' aren't what photography experts would probably want to hear, however, I have seen a few anguished posts from R2400 owners in here before, so I think some people may find it useful.
The whole reason why Aperture is hopeless at using the R2400's premium profiles is because - unusually - their default rendering intent is set to 'relative colorimetric' rather than 'perceptual'. You might say 'but that's good - it means you get more accurate colours!', and if you do, you're right... however, there's a snag. To get an image to reproduce well using Epson's premium profiles and relative colorimetric rendering, you really need to use black point compensation. This is where the trouble lies: Aperture's black point compensation is diabolical to the point of being unusable when used with relative colorimetric rendering - I feel I need to be awarded compensation every time I've ever tempted to use the setting. So because BPC in Aperture is unusable, that effectively makes the premium profiles unusable too, because Aperture always uses the default rendering intent specified in the profile.
The solution? Use perceptual rendering instead. Ok, so you can't change the rendering intent in Aperture, which makes that sound a tad difficult. However, as I said in the above paragraph, Aperture always obeys the default rendering intent specified in the profile... so you can see where we're going with this: we need to change the ICC profiles' default rendering intent from 'relative colorimetric' to 'perceptual'. I did some digging around and found one or two expensive pieces of software that could do that... but then I found that, lo and behold, the Mac OS has a command-line utility which can do the job for us, for precisely £0.00. It's called SIPS or 'Scriptable Image Processing System', and you can find out some information about it here: http://developer.apple.com/technotes/tn/tn2035.html#TNTAG58 For those who don't like reading technical jargon however, here's what you need to do to convert a profile's rendering intent. First go to terminal, then type in the following command:
sips -s renderingIntent perceptual
Do not press 'enter' yet. Instead, add a space after 'perceptual', find the ICC profile you want to modify, and click and drag it into the terminal window. You should then find that your command looks something like this:
sips -s renderingIntent perceptual /Users/yourname/folder/RandomProfile.ICC
At which point you can then press 'enter', and the command will execute, giving you an ICC profile which will now make Aperture use perceptual rendering.
There is just one further thing to be aware of after doing this: for some crazy reason, you then need to turn on BPC in Aperture for the prints to come out as good as possible. Black point compensation shouldn't make any difference when using perceptual rendering as the idea of perceptual is that it takes account of things like that anyway, however, in Aperture BPC does make a difference, so remember to turn it on to get a half decent print. In general, I find that prints made using this setup come out pretty well; they almost perfectly match prints made using the profiles with a perceptual intent in Photoshop Elements, except for the fact that Aperture blocks up the shadows a bit more than Photoshop. However, if you can live with that, you might find this is quite a workable solution.
Now, I said near the beginning of this post that all the above can apply to other printers too. Most printer profiles have 'perceptual' set as their default rendering intent, in which case everything I've just said won't be of much help. However, If you are reading this because you're having problems with ICC profiles in Aperture, but you don't use an Epson R2400, find your problematic ICC profile, double-click on it, and take a look at the window that opens: specifically, at the 'Rendering Intent' the window mentions. If it doesn't say 'Perceptual' then it may well be worth trying the steps I've outlined in this post to set it to perceptual, to see if doing so produces an improvement when using the profile in Aperture.
Finally, just one note of caution: if you decide to try out the steps I've detailed above on a paid-for custom-made profile, please back your profile up before messing with it. I haven't experienced any problems when using SIPS to change a profile's rendering intent, but I obviously can't guarantee that it won't do something weird and corrupt your expensive custom-made profile.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask, although (contrary to any impression I may give) I am not a colour-management expert; I'm just someone who doesn't give up when they have a problem that should be solvable.
Thomas
Mac Pro 2.0GHz with 30" ACD; 15" MacBook Pro 2.0GHz Mac OS X (10.4.10)

Thomas
Wow - thanks for such a comprehensive post.
I have Aperture and a 2400 so this information is exceptionally useful to me.
Again - thanks for caring and sharing
Brian

Possible solution for Windows printing - Incorrect permissions

We have an Epson CX6400 all-in-one printer attached via USB to a Mac.
The printer works fine after having to reinstall most of the print subsystem and drivers when upgrading from OS X 10.3 to 10.4.
We also have some Windows XP and Linux computers.
I'm using Bonjour for Windows XP to print, and prior to 10.3.9, it was working correctly. After subsequent upgrades, printing from OS X would work fine, but not from Windows.
Bonjour configures IPP printing using a generic Postcript driver that in term Mac OS X processes locally using the actual printer driver.
When printing from Windows, the printer queue would stop and I would have to manually delete the print job and restart the queue, before I could print anything.
Trying to figure it out, I checked /var/log/cups/error.log, and I'd invariably see the following when trying to print from Windows XP:
I [31/Jan/2006:22:49:56 -0500] Started filter /usr/libexec/cups/filter/pstopdffilter (PID 15403) for job 119.
I [31/Jan/2006:22:49:56 -0500] Started filter /System/Library/Printers/Libraries/PrintJobMgr/Contents/MacOS/PrintJobMgr (PID 15404) for job 119.
E [31/Jan/2006:22:49:56 -0500] PID 15403 stopped with status 1!
when running /usr/libexec/cups/filter/pstopdffilter manually from the console with what I thought would be the proper command (from the terminal, as root), it didn't die on me, and would rather show me debug information about the fonts being used on the intended document.
Solution:
(Note: I don't work for Apple and this can potentially create security issues, but it works as intended otherwise).
Using the console, go to /usr/libexec/cups/filter, as follows ($ is the prompt, type AFTER the prompt):
$ cd /usr/libexec/cups/filter
$ sudo chmod +s pstopdffilter
Sudo will ask for your password to temporarily gain root access.
This executable (pstopdffilter) is owned by root, so the command "chmod +s" makes the process running this command to run as root instead of whatever user process invokes it.
It shouldn't have to be run as root. Possibly the file/directory where it needs to write to has incorrect permissions.
Again, running these processes as root is not a good idea, and a malformed PS file might make it crash and possibly exploit something else. It's unlikely that this will happen, but just be warned.
E.
PowerBook G4 Mac OS X (10.4.4)

Thomas
Wow - thanks for such a comprehensive post.
I have Aperture and a 2400 so this information is exceptionally useful to me.
Again - thanks for caring and sharing
Brian

10.5.3 update -A possible solution for those who have hard spinning fans!!!

Hey people!
I've been diggin around the internet for a solution to this problem... I couldn't find anything at all till I started to mess with my macbook around... I tried to reindex the spotlight by deleting the previous indexed list of files with an app called "spotless" but nothing happened. I even tried to reset the SMC - system management controller - but still nothing happened... I tried some other things out but I had come out unsuccessful TILL... I remembered myself to try all this out in safe mode....
This was so far the strangest thing I've ever experienced on a mac... by entering in safe mode the fans just started to ramp down and my laptop returned to what it used to be! Just that - entering on safe mode! After entering and after listening to the fans loosing speed, I rebooted in normal mode and my laptop was healthy again!
To start up into safe mode (to "Safe Boot"), do this:
- Be sure the computer is shut down.
- Press the power button.
- Immediately after you hear the startup tone, press and hold the Shift key.
Tip: The Shift key should be held as soon as possible after the startup tone but not before.
Release the Shift key when you see the gray Apple and progress indicator (looks like a spinning gear).
P.S. - if you get lucky with this procedure just reply me and spread the word!
Good luck!
Rui Caldeira
Message was edited by: Caldeira

Actually... it really solved the problem for me! My computer have sounded like a jet plane for the last couple of days. But I'm not sure if the only solution is to boot into safe mode. I recommend you to do like this:
1.) Remove the spotlight indexes and disable the service if you don't use it. You can use Spotless to do this. You find it here: http://mac.softpedia.com/progDownload/Spotless-Download-9834.html
2.) Reset the SMC. Om a MacBook, you turn the computer off and remove AC and the battery. Hold the power button for about 10 seconds. Insert the AC but NOT the battery and boot the computer. Shut it down and install the battery.
3.) After the SMC reset, boot the computer into safe mode by holding the shift key during boot up.
4.) Let the fans spin down in safe mode for a couple of minutes.
5.) Restart the computer into normal mode and the fans should now be spinning normally again!
This worked for me, but only in the order above!
/D

Possible solution for headphone problems with Mac Mini

A month or two ago, I posted a question about problems I was having with getting earphones and earbuds to work with my mid-2010 Mac Mini. I just wanted to share the (quite simple) solution that solved my problem.
My problem: I couldn't get any earphones or earbuds to work with my Mini, despite my trying several different sets. Finally I took my Mini into the local Apple store.
Solution: Though it was not stated in any Apple support literature or postings online, the solution was to push the mini-jack into the audio out port until the mini-jack clicked. I was just being too cautious. I was pushing the mini-jacks into the port (which were in the back of the Mini, so I couldn't get a good handle on what I was doing, since the Mini's back was facing away from me). I wrongly thought I'd pushed as far as the jack(s) should go. Not so. I should have pushed harder until there was a 'click' and the mini-jack was all the way in. Once that was done, no problem.
Chalk it up to my stupidity or to a lack of detail in Apple's support and help literature, but that was the solution. I hope this helps others with similar audio out issues.

Thanks for the response but I think maybe you missed part of my post. The keyboard works fine with my mac book and with my son's macbook. The keyboard is actually working right now. It has been a problem with shut down and then strart up. I think that I went through all those other SMC and PRAM efforts with Apple support and actually many others and they were completely stumped. I think that this is a complicated problem for which there may only be a work around but I am hopeful that the next time I shut down, it will work. I appreciate ideas but if my 4 or 5 hours with Apple support cannot help, I do not believe this is going to be a simple solution but if someone has encountered this or something similar, I would welcome their ideas. I have gone to the Apple Store in Madison, WI on several occasions and unfortunately I often know more than the people that help me so I am reluctant to go there and to trust the staff at the genius bar. For example, I recently purchased and Apple watch and the first person that helped me did not know how to turn it on and the second person did not know it came with two different length bands, and I once bought a case for my iphone and the person who helped me was more interested in the color than in the functionality of the case. I could go on but I am not confident in the competence of the staff there so I am hoping that someone in the support community can help me.

I have a possible solution for any hangs/ freezing on the login screen

this solution is by no means a guaranteed fix nor is it for someone who is very computer illiterate. it also will void any apple warranty. here it is.
1. open your laptop
2. remove both ram cards.
3. replace the ram cards in the opposite slots
4. close up your laptop
5. turn it on
this should resolve the issue because it will reset the ram cards which will then recalibrate to OS X Lion.
Please comment if you find a better less invasive solution!!!!
good luck

Yes, you need a third party app called airparrot, it works on Macs that are too 'old' to support mirror. It is a purchase for 10 bucks but take the free 15 min trial to check it suits you.
Jules

A possible solution for the folder exclamation or folder! problem

This worked for Windows XP. Don't know if it will work for the Mac but it may.
Three days ago my wife’s iPod, 4th gen 40gb, stopped working. I got the folder exclamation icon (or folder! as some have described it). I hooked it to my laptop and had no joy with it. The system (XP) would see it sometimes as a removable and sometimes as a hard drive. Disk Manager saw it a couple of times but it always took about an hour for it to show up. I messed with it about 5 hours the first night and then decided to take it to the Apple Store the next day. The guys at the Genius Bar had the same problem, this time on a Mac. Told me it was out of warranty and that the best I could do was find someone who could repair it. I’m a tech and I don’t want to mess with it but I’m not going to pay someone $200+ to replace what is essentially a laptop hard drive. So I kept plugging away and researching on the net. I’ve seen a lot of posts concerning the icon as well as a few concerning the partitioning of the drive. I’ve even seen where some people are advocating opening the iPod and shaking the drive which is never a good idea. Nothing really seemed to help so I kept working on it myself.
I did find a solution and it takes a bit of time. It involves deleting the current partition and formatting it again. Since I’m using this on XP I had to format the partition as a Fat32. In order to do this I had to use the Knoppix operating system because Microsoft limited XP’s ability to format Fat32 partitions to 32GB. If you have an iPod that is less than 32gb you may be able to just format it using XP. I also couldn’t get XP to delete the partition so using Knoppix worked out very well since it has a program called QTParted on it that works like Partition Magic. Knoppix is free and does not have to be installed. It runs entirely off of your CDRom drive. If you have about an hour to try this I’d be interested in whether it works for anyone else.
I believe the problem that most people are having comes from the fact that the Fat32 file system is not good for keeping a “clean” hard drive. It tends to leave bits and pieces around and if you update a lot it can affect the hard drive’s performance. I know that Restoring using the updater is supposed to fix this but it appears that the updater software does a quick format. That won’t always fix the problem. By following what I did you will blow away the existing partition and create a new one and format it to the Fat32. This effectively makes it a “clean” hard drive.
Before I walk you through this I just wanted to say that I’ve purposely blown my wife’s iPod away 4 times to make sure that this works. Works like new now and did so after each time I blew it away. You should have seen her face when I did it.
The things you will need and need to do are:
CD Burner (you need to be able to create a disk from an ISO Image
Blank CD
Download a copy of Knoppix 4.0 from http://www.knoppix.com
Download the current version of iPod updater http://www.apple.com/iPod/download/
Make sure your system can boot from CD-Rom (Check your system docs)
About an hour of your time
1. Using your software of choice, burn the Knoppix image to your CD.
2. Place your iPod in Disk Mode. You do that by resetting the iPod and , on 4th gen at least, once it resets immediately hold down the Select+Play/Pause buttons. You should see it say Disk Mode at the top of your screen. Not sure how to do that on other iPods but I figure if you’ve gotten this far you will be able to figure it out.
2. Shut your system down and place the Knoppix cd in your cdrom. Make sure your system will boot from CD
Note: If you are using a laptop you may not be able to use the mouse by default with Knoppix. You can try to enable it when you first start Knoppix. You do this by typing the following at the Boot: prompt.
Knoppix pci=irqmask=0x0e98
If that doesn’t work for you then you may need to hook another mouse to your laptop.
3. Once Knoppix is up go to the K button (located like the start button on XP) and go to the system group. You will see a program called QTParted. Start that program.
4. On the left of the QTParted screen you will see the hard drives on your system. One of them should be your iPod. It should say something like /dev/sda1. Click on that device. In the bottom on the left side for Drive Info I was given the information that it was an Apple iPod and the capacity. Don’t know if everyone will get that but it stands to reason that you should.
5. You should now see the iPod’s partition information on the right side of the screen. I don’t know about anyone else’s but my wife’s had 37mb free and that turned out to be important. Make a note of any unallocated space you may have and keep it for the next step. Highlight the partition and then delete it. Once deleted you will need to go to the upper left corner of the screen. There is a button there to Commit changes that you have made. Click on this button and wait for the process to end.
6. Now to create a new partition. In the right panel right click again on the drive. Select create partition. It will ask you what type of partition you want to create. Select Fat32 and where it gives you the option for the partition size, use the slide bar to leave the amount of space free that was unallocated in step 5. The reason for this is that when I first partitioned my wife’s I used all of the available space and the iPod didn’t like it. Once you have the size set hit OK (or whatever it is to continue). Go again to the upper right and hit the Commit button. Wait for the changes to happen and then shutdown your system, remove the Knoppix cd and then boot again as normal.
7. Once your system has rebooted start the iPod updater. Once it asks you to plug in your iPod connect your iPod and you should be able to Restore it.
As I said I did this 4 times to make sure it worked and each time both the updater and iTunes saw the iPod with no problems.
At this point you should have your iPod back up and running. I apologize if I haven’t been very detailed here but I’m at work and typing this from memory. I wanted to get this out now while I’m thinking about it because I’m getting ready to go away for a couple of months and won’t have time to do this at home.
Let me know if this works for anyone.
Windows XP Pro
Windows XP Pro

mythic: You do NOT have to use FAT32. You don't even have to delete and recreate the partition. All you have to do is format the hard drive of the iPod. That's it. Your procedure will work even if you format the new partition as NTFS.
But don't take my word for it. Try it yourself.
I've done this exact same thing a hundred times, and I never used Knoppix to do it. All you have to do is:
1. Force the iPod into Disk Mode as described here: http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=93651 (note that there's a different procedure for 3G and older iPod's!)
2. Start the iPod Updater (on an XP box). Having the Updater open will prevent iTunes from auto-launching and trying to screw around with the iPod.
3. Connect the iPod. It'll show up as a normal drive letter on the PC (if the PC crashes at this point, that's a Windows specific problem, not an iPod one).
4. Use the Disk Management tool (located in Control Panel->Admin Tools->System Management) to format. Doing this as NTFS is perfectly fine. Do not do a quick format.
5. After the format, go back to the updater and hit Restore.
It works every time. I've posted this like a thousand times, but nobody ever seems to pay attention.
Why does it work? It's simple, really. The Updater's Restore process is broken if there are bad sectors in certain locations. Formatting the iPod's partition like that causes it to do a scan for bad sectors. That's why the format takes so long (quick format skips this scan). The reason NTFS works fine is because one of the things the restore process actually does is to rewrite the iPod's partition table, and in the process it converts that NTFS space back into a FAT32 space. So really it makes no difference what that partition is, Restore will overwrite it anyway.
For information's sake, what the Restore process actually does is to write a disk image onto the iPod's drive. This disk image itself is tricky, but the Restore procedure is not particularly complex. You can even extract that image and write it to the iPod yourself in Linux using dd. That works just as well.
Anyway, when the drive won't write to a specific sector, then the Restore program freaks out. Formatting will remap the unwritable sectors and fix the problem. It's the bad sector remapping that's important here, not the partition layout or the filesystem type. Fix the drive problem and the Restore will work.

Possible solution for "iPhone not recognized by iTunes" issue (Vista/7)

This solution is intended for those Vista/Windows 7 users:
- whose iPhone will not show up as a device in iTunes (usually after upgrading to iTunes 10);
- whose iPhone is successfully connected to the PC (appears as a device in Windows Explorer);
- particularly those experiencing the issue where fully uninstalling/reinstalling iTunes will allow it to recognize the iPhone once -- and once only -- but disconnecting the iPhone will cause iTunes to ignore it again (until the next full uninstall/reinstall).
I know there are plenty of people who fit those criteria, as I've been monitoring the forums for a fix for this for weeks.
The solution's pretty straight forward:
1. Disconnect all iPhone/iPod devices and close iTunes
2. Open Windows Explorer
3. Navigate to the folder: *C:\ProgramData\Apple Computer\iTunes*
4. Delete the file: iPodDevices.xml +(I recommend you copy it to the Desktop first, for peace of mind)+
5. Reconnect your iPhone to the PC and fire up iTunes
Fingers crossed, your iPhone should now show up as a device in iTunes after a short pause.
The XML file is recreated each time the iPhone is connected to the PC, so you will need to repeat the file deletion each time you want to sync your phone. So this isn't a permanent fix -- that's up to Apple to fix their buggy application -- only a workaround, but it's a **** sight faster than uninstalling every piece of iTunes-related software each time. (You could even set up a batch file to delete iPodDevices.xml automatically and save the folder navigation.)
Windows XP users: unfortunately, the ProgramData folder only exists in Windows Vista/7. I don't have a copy of XP to hand to locate it myself, but it's a good bet that the same iPodDevices.xml file exists somewhere on your PC (most likely somewhere under Program Files or Local Settings) and is the culprit if you're experiencing the same problems under XP.
So far, deleting that file before connecting my phone hasn't failed to work for me (iPhone 3GS, iOS4.1, iTunes 10.0.1.22). YMMV, but go ahead and reply if it works for you too -- it'll help me get a more detailed and coherent bug report to Apple.

I should also mention: this solution should not be a first step in troubleshooting.
If you haven't already, try the following steps first -- they're more basic and/or more likely to provide a permanent fix for you:
1) Try a different USB port. (One on the PC itself; not on a USB hub.)
2) Try a different USB cable.
3) Reboot the PC. (Sure you've already tried this, but still...)
4) Fully uninstall & reinstall iTunes and related software: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1923
5) Restart the Apple Mobile Device Service : http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1567
6) Reinstall/update the Apple Mobile Device Driver: http://support.apple.com/kb/ts1538
Reinstalling iTunes fully (4) works for many people so be sure to try that, following the sequence on the instruction page. If you're seeing the issue where reinstallation will allow you a one-time sync before iTunes screws up again, I'm pretty confident that following the solution in the first post will work for you.
PS: Mac users... sorry, I know some of you are seeing the same issue but I don't have the first clue about how iTunes is structured on a Mac. Best case, iPodDevices.xml exists somewhere on your Mac and you can try the same fix... good luck!

A possible solution for "foreight language keyboard shortcut" problem...

Hi(Bonjour)!
Everyone know the problem of losy keyboard layout when Final Cut is used with foreight language keyboard. We loose the COMMAND-Q shorcut.
As PieroF suggested in many posts in final cut express forum, there is a workaround:
"+I just installed Leopard and I ran into this keyboard shortcut problem.+
+I can confirm that:+
+a. the problem exists also with the Italian keyboard (in addition to other languages, as pointed by other posters)+
+b. the workaround I described in my previous answer works fine :+
+- close FCE (if open)+
+- open System Preferences/International/Language+
+- drag English to the first place on top of the other languages+
+- drag your own language (Italian in my case) again on top of English (at the end the window will show the same original settings, but something happened in the heart of Leopard...)+
+- close System Preferences+
+- open FCE: now all shortcuts work as expected, and are correctly listed with their corresponding menu commands+
+It's a workaround, it's not convenient (I'd better have this bug fixed), but apparently you have to apply it only once for each system startup.+
Piero "
As stated by Piero, you have to follow this procedure after each computer startup.
I found a way to restore the COMMAND-Q shortcut with the keyboard and mouse system pref panel.
Simply add Final Cut application and add a +custom shotcut+. Be careful to type exactly the "Quit Final Cut Express" menu.
This solution allows to restart the computer.
It's work with Final Cut Express and Final Cut Pro under Leopard 10.5.4.
Michel Boissonneault

Hi Michel,
I like your suggestion because the keyboard shortcuts defined in the system preferences do not require redefinition at each startup. So in theory we could define all missing/wrong shortcuts this way, and not only the cmd-Q as you suggested. Boring, but we could do it once for all.
The only problem is that I don't know how to define shortcuts for submenus, for example "Render Selection/Both": it seems system preferences allows only to define shortcuts for the menu ("Render Selection" - in this case absolutely useless) but not for the submenu.
Do you know a way ? (I looked in the help, which didn't... help).
Piero

A possible solution for pushing subscribed calendars to iOS devices

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