A Print workflow question

I outsource my printing using the "Print to File" option in the Print Module. My workflow is straight forward: Import, Image Editing (using the Develop Module) and Printing (Print to File). I sharpen my images during the Image Editing phase using the Develop sharpening tool. I use a calibrated Monitor to makes sure that I am seeing a representative image on my screen. In the Print Module (under Print Job) I can select an option “Print Sharpening” (low, standard and high).
Question: Does does the “Print Sharpening” negate my sharpening settings in the Develop Module? If not, what is the difference between the two sharpening tools?

Panagon-1 wrote:
Question: Does does the “Print Sharpening” negate my sharpening settings in the Develop Module? If not, what is the difference between the two sharpening tools?
Print Sharpening (often also called output sharpening) work in combination with the capture sharpening you set in the Develop module. This constitutes 2/3 of the sharpening workflow concept by Bruce Fraser see: Out of Gamut: Thoughts on a Sharpening Workflow
The aim of the capture sharpening in the Develop module is to regain the loss of apparent sharpness cause by the optical system and the sensor. The goal is to have the image "look good" at 1:1. If properly accomplished, the Print Sharpening combines with the capture sharpening to sharpen for the final output–which really can't be judged visually...
So, make it look good in Develop then add the Print Sharpening on top.

Similar Messages

Sharpening export workflow question

I have a sharpening workflow question. Say I have pictures from a portrait session I just finished. I have to send 10 pictures the client ordered to a print lab and I also will make some small facebook sized pictures and upload them to my business facebook page. The level of sharpening needed for large prints (I upload to print lab as RGB JPEGS) and sharpening needed for the very small sRGB facebook-sized pictures is different. In Lightroom I have the option to set the sharpening on export and have a bunch of presets that alter the export size, color space, sharpening, etc(WHCC print lab, facebook, Client CD, etc). I don't see how to do that in Aperture. I see they have the option if you have a printer, but not on normal export.
For those of you that have to export batches of pictures in multiple different sizes (with different levels of sharpening), what is your workflow? I could use some photoshop droplets/actions after Aperture export but I was hoping there was a way to avoid the extra step. Am I overlooking an export feature? The BorderFX plug-in looks like the only other option.
Thank you in advance for time and help!
Scott

Frank Scallo Jr wrote:
The thing is guys - Once a file is sized down it WILL lose sharpening - what we are doing is sharpening the full size RAW file or rather what the full size output would be like. Once we export a version sized down it will lose some of the 'bite'. LR has sharpening options on 'output' which is not only smart but a necessity. Adobe realizes that output for screen needs another sharpen. Apple either doesn't know or didn't bother. It makes ANY output for screen less than best.
Bear in mind that there seem to be two separate issues going on here - sharpening adjustments not being applied on export, and resizing.
As far as resizing is concerned, Aperture appears to use something roughly equivalent to Photoshop's Bicubic Sharper setting. Because of this I've never had much problem with Aperture's exports when used for the web, but obviously everyone's taste for sharpening differs which is why an option for output sharpening would be good.
Sharpening adjustments not being applied on export is a separate issue and should be reported via the feedback form ASAP by everyone who is experiencing the bug.
Now printing is another animal - I wouldn't print directly from RAW in aperture either if I'm printing small. Again, LR beats Aperture here as well since they include output sharpening for print.
Aperture has had output sharpening for printing since 2.0 came out (unless it in was 1.5). In A3 you need to turn on 'More Options' and scroll down, I can't remember where it is in A2. I don't know how effective it is as I print via a lab, but it's there and it's been there for a long time...
Ian

I have an Ipad and Iphone but I don't have an Airprint, only a WIFI printer,my question is if I connect the wifi printer to Airport express, can I print from Ipad and Iphone ?

I have an Ipad and Iphone but I don't have an Airprint at home but only a WIFI printer, my question is if I connect the wifi printer to Airport express, can I print from Ipad and Iphone ? Please help me if anyone knows about this.

Unfortunately, connecting a non-AirPrint-enabled printer to an AirPort base station's USB port will not make it AirPrint-ready.
You will need to use another solution, like Printopia, to be able to print to this printer from an iOS device.

RED Workflow questions with Mac Pro (including third party plugins)

Hello all,
I’ve been searching many forums for the better part of a day trying to get some workflow questions sorted. I’m experiencing (very) slow export times, and mediocre playback for a machine that should be screaming fast.
Here is what I’m working with:
2014 Mac Pro
-2.7 GHz 12-core intel xeon E5
-64GB Ram
-Dual AMD FirePro D700 6GB
-1TB Flash Storage
Editing all footage off 96TB Raid 6 mini-sas server (getting about 1100mbs read/write rate according to AJA system test) which is faster than any Thunderbolt/TB2 drive array I have.
Media I work with is footage from the RED Epic (normally 5K) as well as DSLR footage from the 5d.
Software:
-PrPro CC 2014 (8.1)
-Magic Bullet Looks 2.5.2
My question(s) pertains to RED post-pro workflow in combination with third party plug-ins and the different approaches to make it more efficient.
Right now, majority of the clients need a 1080p HD master, and they are generally anywhere from 2-8 minutes (usually). So my sequence settings are as follows:
Video:
Editing Mode: RED Cinema
Size: 1920 x 1080
Audio: 48Hz
Video Previews
Preview File Format: I-Frame Only MPEG
Codec: MPEG I-Frame
1920x1080
Maximum Bit Depth unchecked
Maximum Render Quality unchecked
Composite in Linear Color checked
Export Settings
H.264
1920x1080
VBR 1 pass
Target Bitrate 12mbs
Max bitrate 12mbs
Maximum render quality/depth/previews unchecked
Issues I have:
-Playback is fine at 1/2 or even full, but once effects (especially magic bullet looks) start to go on the clips, it’s very choppy and has difficult playback at 1/4
-Export times (especially with magic bullet looks) will take the better part of 1-4 hours for a video that is 3-6 minutes long. This doesn’t seem like it should be the case for a maxed out MacPro
So my questions are:
Do these seem like the right sequence/export settings for mastering at 1080p? If not, what would you suggest?
Would using offline editing help at all?
Do you place your effects on adjustment layers?
Is there anyway to improve export settings when using an array of filters?
Have you stopped using third party plugins for their inefficiency in unreliability and switched to more integrated applications like SpeedGrade?
Is there any other tweaks that you would suggest for RED workflow with PrPro?
Should I consider switching to FCPX or (besides the iMovie-likeness) does it carry problems of its own?

Hi This Is Ironclad,
thisisironclad wrote:
Hello all,
I’ve been searching many forums for the better part of a day trying to get some workflow questions sorted. I’m experiencing (very) slow export times, and mediocre playback for a machine that should be screaming fast.
The biggest issue is that most people have is that updating OS X causes certain folders to be set to Read Only. See this blog post: Premiere Pro CC, CC 2014, or 2014.1 freezing on startup or crashing while working (Mac OS X 10.9, and later).
thisisironclad wrote:
Hello all,
I’ve been searching many forums for the better part of a day trying to get some workflow questions sorted. I’m experiencing (very) slow export times, and mediocre playback for a machine that should be screaming fast.
Here is what I’m working with:
2014 Mac Pro
-2.7 GHz 12-core intel xeon E5
-64GB Ram
-Dual AMD FirePro D700 6GB
-1TB Flash Storage
It's a nice base system. How about an additional speedy disk for media cache files. You also did not mention which version of OS X you are running.
thisisironclad wrote:
Software:
-Magic Bullet Looks 2.5.2
The Red Giant website does not indicate that this software is yet updated to work with Premiere Pro CC 2014.1 (8.1). Proceed with caution here.
thisisironclad wrote:
Issues I have:
-Playback is fine at 1/2 or even full, but once effects (especially magic bullet looks) start to go on the clips, it’s very choppy and has difficult playback at 1/4
I would not use this plug-in until you get the OK from the manufacturer.
thisisironclad wrote:
-Export times (especially with magic bullet looks) will take the better part of 1-4 hours for a video that is 3-6 minutes long. This doesn’t seem like it should be the case for a maxed out MacPro
Again, I suspect your plug-in.
Keep in mind that exports are largely CPU based but you can make sure that GPU acceleration is enabled for AME at the bottom of the Queue panel.
thisisironclad wrote:
So my questions are:
Do these seem like the right sequence/export settings for mastering at 1080p? If not, what would you suggest?
It's OK.
thisisironclad wrote:
Would using offline editing help at all?
No need when you should be able to edit natively. Relinking might also be an issue.
thisisironclad wrote:
Do you place your effects on adjustment layers?
That's one way you can do it with the benefit of being more organized.
thisisironclad wrote:
Have you stopped using third party plugins for their inefficiency in unreliability and switched to more integrated applications like SpeedGrade?
I do. Of course, that's a preference.
thisisironclad wrote:
Is there any other tweaks that you would suggest for RED workflow with PrPro?
Try the following:
Sign out from Creative Cloud, restart Premiere Pro, then sign in
Update any GPU drivers
Trash preferences
Ensure Adobe preference files are set to read/write(Hopefully you checked this out already)
Delete media cache
Remove plug-ins
If you have AMD GPUs, make sure CUDA is not installed
Repair permissions
Disconnect any third party hardware
If you have a CUDA GPU, ensure that the Mercury Playback Engine is set to CUDA, not OpenCLYou have AMD GPUs.
Disable App Nap
Reboot
thisisironclad wrote:
Should I consider switching to FCPX or (besides the iMovie-likeness) does it carry problems of its own?
I really shouldn't answer that question.
Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Kevin

Yet Another Workflow Question

Ok I too, like many others here, am new to the Mac (thanks to Apple's I'm a Mac, I'm a PC ads that my wife couldn't get enough of). I have done some searching around and I see that there are quite a few iMovie workflow questions out there. I have not quite found what I am looking for however, so I thought I would make my first post tonight. So here it goes...
I have 3 different ways I capture video:
1. Canon Vixia HF10 (HD)
2. Canon Powershot (SD)
3. Blackberry Storm (SD...I know it isn't a good phone)
I record everything to SD cards. I am wanting to know the best way to store my raw video for editing at any time. Do I copy the AVCHD file structure (for the Vixia) and .avi files (for the other non HD) to my hdd, or do I just import into iMovie '09 and let it reside there, or both? I noticed that iMovie had an archival option (which appears to just copy the AVCHD structure to my hdd), which is why I ask. I want to always keep my raw video in case I decide to go back later and create a new video.
After I have the raw video archived, I would like to know the best way to use iMovie. Depending on where I end up storing the raw video, should I keep the imported video in iMovie once I am finished with a project, and then reimport it at a later date if need be? Or, do I leave it in iMovie as events? I guess this all rely depends on the first question...where do I store the raw video for archival purposes...
Finally, when exporting my iMovie project, should I store that in more of a, pardon the Windows reference, "My Videos" folder with a original size, web optimized size, and ipod optimized size? Thus, keeping the actual exported version of the project separate from the raw video?
I hope I have asked the right questions here. I appreciate any and all help I can get!
Ron

Welcome Ron to the  iMovie boards..
very interesting : 'switchers' care sooo much for 'storage strategies' ..
the by Apple intended workflow/concept for iApps is:
any 'photocam' related material (still or movin') comes-in via iPhoto, and is stored in an iP Library (=you can tell iP to create 2/many Libs, if you prefer to organize manually....)
any 'camcorder' related material HAS to be imported by iM - why? because, iM has some internal routines to make such material editable (codecs, thumnails, stuff....). the same material as 'file by Finder' does not import.. in most cases!
storage..
iP stores in its Library (local/internal HDD and/or ext. HDD)
iM stores in Events (local/internal HDD and/or ext. HDD)
to make Projects/Albums accessible to any iApp, you should keep your fingers off that structure.
Erasing Events 'kills' projects.
allthough, once 'shared to media browser' there's a 'copy' of your project WITHIN the project file. (= the socalled Media Browser is no single Folder somewhere hidden in the system)
there's this Spacesaver feature to erase any Event content which is not in use in any project to keep Events lean.
use the Archive feature from within iM to keep things easy and convenient.. if you miss a single file of the SDcard file-structure, the whole card's content is kaputt ..
summary:
• use iApps as intended.
• use iP for cameras, it stores 'raws' (the avi too)
• use iM for camcorders, use Archive to store raws..
• purchase a dozend of HDDs to store your material..

Automating a print workflow

Hello, I have been trying to use automator to create a print workflow. About 20 times a day I send a new document to a combined fax/printer to fax to another associate at a remote location. I use the same printer, select send print from the tool bar, select send fax, select facsimile, add the number then press print. I do this over and over again. I tried to record the events as I did them through automator but I could not figure out how to implement them. Any ideas?

What are you using to print the items? If you are using a Run AppleScript action that you have put together, the items passed to the action are in the input parameter. You will need to loop through each item in this input variable (which is a list), for example:
repeat with MyFile in the input
-- do something with MyFile
end repeat

PDF to iDisk - print workflow?

Hi,
Does anyone know if I can add a "save as PDF and send to iDisk" print workflow to the drop down list in the print dialog box?
I don't know how to write print workflows, would it be done through automator?
Thanks,
Adam

All you need to do is put an alias of your iDisk (or a folder on it) in the PDF Services folder in your user library. Automator is not necessary. (If you do not have a PDF Services folder, just make one.)

Easing printing workflow?

I have recently upgraded to iPhoto 7 and am getting a little frustrated at the printing workflow. Is there any way of not having two different print dialogues to go through?
Used to able to select paper option etc. in first dialogue and the print straight away by having saved 'profiles' for different papers etc.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance...

no - there now are two prints windows to go through to print (three if you want to use the customization features) -- you can make your suggestion to Apple under the iPhoto menu ==> provide iPhoto feedback
LN

IPhoto 6 workflow questions -- iPhoto & Elements

All -- just installed iLife 6, but have not used it yet. The combination of iWeb & .mac looks very promising for finally being able to easily share my photos with my family/friends. But I am still not clear on the best file workflow to be able to take advantage of all the iPhoto/iWeb/,mac functionality, and also the editing power of Adobe Elements (the editing software I am using). If you all could help me with this I would be so grateful.
I shoot JPEG.
I move a photo from iPhoto to Element to edit it.
If my goal is to move it back to iPhoto to share, how should I resize it? How should I optimize it for the best quality while viewing on a monitor, but with enough quality that if folks want to make a print, they can?
What format should I save it back to iPhoto in? JPEG? Or can iPhoto handle TIF or PSD and is that recommended?
What about a master, unedited image. Should I worry about that? And if so, where will that live?
If I plan on printing a photo, should I optimize the file for that purpose and print from Elements instead of bringing the file back into iPhoto?
As you can see from my questions, I am still unclear on the relationship of iPhoto and Elements (or any other editing software). I would be so grateful for any help you can give in this discussion, or other places you can point me to get this information.
Thanks everyone!
Greg

haha, the way I work is, if a program doesn't do what I want the way I want it, then I find a program that does. For many, just iPhoto will fit the bill.
This is what I do. I take a photo shoot. If it is important photos, I upload them to ClubPhoto so others can download and print them. Most often I do not print my 4x6 photos. I wait till there is a special at ClubPhoto for half price prints and order all my yearly prints at that time. I buy one photo album that fits 200 photos and I order 200 photos from my albums online to be printed. Year in photos are now done.
If someone comes over and says, hey, I love that photo, can you print it out for me? then I use my Printers software to print the 4x6 or 8x10.
I used .mac and now iWeb to keep family and friends informed of whats going on in Photos and videos. It's more or less just for fun.
When I said I have an iWeb site, I mean that I have used iWeb, a new application in the iLife suite to publish a web site with photos movie clips and a blog.
You do not have to do any resizing if you are going to use iWeb as the software does it for you behind the lines.
If you are resizing to upload anywhere else or for another purpose, it all depends on what size you need for your purpose. For album sites, 800x600 is a good size.
For emailing a photo, either do it right within iPhoto and you will get a choice on what size you want to send, or export to the desktop, at which time you can input the size you want to export the photo at.
I always keep full resolution photos in my library. If I want a smaller size, I always export the image at a smaller size and keep the full size in the library.

Colour Space / Workflow question.

Hi,
I have been seconded to take photos at an up and coming family wedding.
I will be using a Canon 300D Digital SLR, shooting in RAW, and performing post processing on a Mac using Aperture (yet to be purchased).
I have established that my print lab works in the Adobe 1998 colour space. So, please let me know if I have the this right:
As long as my screen is calibrated, and I work in and save my images as Adobe 1998, my prints should accurately resemble what was present on my screen?
Is there a preference for which format (jpg, tiff, etc.) the images should be saved in for ensuring accurate print output from a pro lab ? They charge per print for RAW conversion, so I'm looking at saving finals as TIFF as the logical alternative.
Also - can someone tell me if I should necessarily set the camera parameters to any particular colour space ? On the Canon, I have the option to set Adobe RGB, or a number of Canon pre-sets, or in fact set my own pre-sets for tone, colour saturation etc. Does this even matter if I'm shooting in RAW ?
Any other advice on how I can ensure consistency in this workflow for this and future projects ?
Sorry for all the questions, but many thanks,
Paul
MacBook Pro Mac OS X (10.4.7) 23" Cinema Display

I took your advice and sought more info from my lab.
They have provided me with a calibration image on CD
as well as a print of the same to do some side by
side comarison with my monitor. They also provided a
colour settings file for Photoshop. Armed with all of
this I seem to be getting closer to understanding the
necessary adjustments (although I temporarily
confused things by introducing my home printer into
the equation, until I realised that this thing also
has it's own colour settings).
To me, it sounds like the color settings file for Photoshop is most likely the color profile data I was talking about - does it end in .icc? What are the instructions for installation?
After you install it you can check the "Proofing Profile" dropdown in Aperture to see if you see anything like it - you'll need to restart Aperture after you install the icc profile (I think).
You can import the image from teh CD into Aperture and try using the proofing with the color profile sent to see how close it looks.
Basically the idea of the proofing and the profile is that by turning on on-screen proofng, you are taking the colors you have and seeing how the smaller range of color availaible in the printer will reflect what you have.. this gives you the ability to alter tones until the image you have better fits into the range of colors the printer can produce.
I haven't purchased Aperture yet, but I presume there
will be a way to invoke settings similar to the
colour settings in Photoshop so that what I'm seeing
in Aperture will be consistent ?
Yes, sorry for the above then which will be of little use until you get Aperture - basically there is a "Proofing Profile" dropdown and a command to enable or disable "Onscreen Proofing" (which is just like CS2's "Proof Colors").
Aperture makes use of any color profile defined in the system, so hopefully the installation instructions are for general OS X color profile installation. If it's an icc file you can install it for use with all of OS X.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but from what you're saying
it actually makes no difference what parameters I
specify in my camera if I'm shooting in RAW ? This is
good to know, as the Adobe RGB setting in the Canon
is actually quite 'washed out' - and I'd prefer to
keep it in one of the sRGB settings for my 'snaphot /
home printing' needs wheh shooting jpegs. So,
provided I export in Aperture to Adobe RGB (my lab's
preference) and work with a calibrated screen I
should be okay ?
Yes, all true. I just want to make sure to note that the choice of color profile does make a difference shooting JPG as it will affect the colors that are defined in the file (and the viewing of them in a browser), but from your comment above it seems you understood that aspect.
I calibrated my current monitor (using software only
at this stage). Does it particulary matter which
colour space I choose to start from, if I'm modifying
brightness, gamma, temperature etc. to save as a
custom profile ?
I'm not sure here what you mean by "color space you choose to start from".
Also for profiling even a cheap device like the Huey would probably be a lot better than the software profiling - I went that route at first as well but the hardware stuff is worth it.
One last, slightly dumb, question. Are "Adobe RGB
1998" and "Adobe RGB" the same thing ?
Yep, pretty much the same thing by slightly different names.

Need printer workflow settings for PS CS5 and HP Photosmart 8750

Friends:
This question must get asked periodically, but I couldnt find an answer:
I have Photoshop CS5 and an HP Photosmart 8750 Printer with these inkjet cartridges (original HP) availiable: (97 Tricolor, 101 Blue Photo, 102 Gray Photo) I also have HP glossy phot paper. Using a Mac Pro with OS 10.6.5 (Snow Leopard)
What do I set my PS5, My Print dialog and my Print Setting to get a decent color photo? I get muddy photos now and am wating lots of fine glossy photo paper. To get an aproximate photo I have to boost brightness by 60% on my photo. Still the printed photo doenst look like the screen.
Thanks for your help, printer profiles and suggestions!!
Migs

At the company I work for we hardly print from Photoshop as we have a pdf-workflow, but I think you might make it easier for others to help you if you provide screenshots (posted with the camera icon) of your print dialog windows, especially those regarding Color Management.

Printing workflow????

I am one of the rare persons on this forum who love aperture. But I have a question about the workflow regarding printing. If I have for example one picture that I have to print from time to time in 3 different sizes, is there a way to save the print settings for every different size, so it is possible just to open the file and print without worrying about paper quality, color management, border etc.??
Thanks in advance
Mac OS X (10.4.4)

One option you might consider is setting up printer profiles for each of the sizes you want. I know you said that you have a picture you wanted to save in different sizes, but if you set up a printer profile, and label it appropriately, you could easily use these settings for other images as well.
For instance, I have set up printer profiles to easily print 4x6, 8x10 and 11x14 images with one click. Each profile applies the settings I want to each print job to my Epson 2200. I have also set up profiles to cover different paper settings since I like to use one type of paper to proof the image, and another to do the final image.
Jeff Weinberg

Color management in Illustrator CS6 and InDesign CS 6-settings & workflow questions.

I've read the color management posts and the Adobe help file regarding the Pantone + libraries and the new differences between CS5 & 6. However I'm still a bit confused as to just what my settings should be, and a few posts offer different pieces of advice, so I'm looking for clarification. I don't need to work with legacy CS files, so I don't want to swap out the old Pantone libraries for the Plus ones. However I still have my old Pantone Solid, Coated and Uncoated swatchbooks and until I can afford the new Plus swatchbooks, I'll depend on those. I'm hoping the difference between Pantone 321U and Pantone+ 321 is not great.
If I'm preparing a file for print and to be placed into an InDesign CS6 document for print, I know both document color modes should be CMYK—got that. In Illustrator CS6, I'm assuming I would use a Pantone+ Uncoated swatch (remember I'm using the old Pantone Uncoated swatch book as a visual guide and praying that the difference isn't too noticeable.)
1. In the Swatch settings pallette, should I set the Spot Color option to use the first choice—use LAB values specified by the book manufacturer, or use CMYK values from the manufacturer process books.
2. In the View menu, should I select Overprint Preview to get a (more or less-I know the drill) closer monitor color to what will be printed.
I don't want to fool around with trying to set the CMYK values as listed in Pantone Color Bridge CMYK EC (found on Scribed here: http://www.scribd.com/doc/33104/Pantoner-Color-BridgeTm-Cmyk-Ec ), and I'm not even sure of the point in doing so or what it would do for me.
What I want is to depend on a swatch book, select the named swatch from the Pantone library, have all my settings set properly, then place it in InDesign, then send the file to a digital printer and get as close an approximation to the swatch book selection as possible. I need monitor color settings to reflect the swatches as best possible.
When I can afford it, should I opt for the Pantone+ Coated and Uncoated swatchbooks, or the Color Bridge? I'm usure of the difference, and if there are any Illustrator or InDesign settings that would need to be changed depending.
As a corollary to this questions, once the settings are OK in Illustrator, what do they need to be in InDesign? There are settings for Ink Manager (all spots to process or use standard LAB values for spots, the Color palette has check options for LAB, CMYK, RGB.
I'm not sure what needs to be set in InDesign to make sure colors are consistent between what is set in Illustrator and then what InDesign does.

Let me try to help you further:
1. In Illustrator's Swatch settings pallette, should the Spot Color Mode option be set to use:
a. CMYK
b. LAB
c. Book Color (not sure if this refers to the pantone swatchbook)
- I would use "c" - Book Color. This is the file going to the printer which will use Spot Color on press. For a copy of the file to be output by your Canon, use "a" - CMYK.
2. In the View menu should Overprint Preview be checked, and why, and would it differ based on the settings for #1.
- Only if the color was transparent ( which it isn't ) would overprint preview be of any use or you use a tint value of the Spot color and a black, but even then you may not be able to detect any change in the screen view. I typically do not use any overprint preview and I do not rely on the monitor for any color deisions. You could be different and that is OK. Let me know if you are able to detect any deviates using overprint preview.
I'm sorry for being a little short. There is a lot of confusion about these issues and Adobe and Pantone are not making things any easier.
The key is your Canon will not be able to print accurate Spot color without a RIP for the necessary color tables and conversions for that particular printer. In your case, it will be necessary to build a CMYK file to print a somewhat approximate representation of that specific Spot color. Another frustrating part of this matrix is CMYK cannot match all Pantone Spot Colors.

Wireless Network/printing Newbie Questions....

Okay, first of all I love Airport and OSX Tiger on my new MacBook. I recieve a strong wireless internet connection in my Los Angeles apartment, and I have NO idea where it's coming from! (my neighbors? The police station across the street,? Just in the air?!?)
I want a wireless printer. My apple store highly recommended either an Airport Extreme or Express with a printer attached to the USB port...
My question is this: If I just buy a laser printer with built in wireless (802.11b/g) network capability (say the HP LaserJet 1022NW), can I just set up my MacBook to communicate directly to the printer with Airport via the 802.11b/g standard? I notice the Airport menu gives me a "Create Network" option...?
Is it this easy?
MacBook Mac OS X (10.4.8)
MacBook Mac OS X (10.4.8)
MacBook Mac OS X (10.4.8)

I notice the Airport menu gives me a "Create Network" option...?
This option is for creating computer-to-computer (ad-hoc) networks utilizing either the AirPort menu or Internet Connect for creating and connecting to this type of network.
It may be possible for a wireless printer, which supports the "ad-hoc" network type, to connect to the "computer-to-computer" network. (With "ad-hoc," as opposed to an "infrastructure" network type, the wireless network would not require a router or access point.)

OWB workflow question

I'm an OWB-newbie (using PARIS) and have a question about OWB workflows.
I want to create several mapping workflows.
All the mapping workflows should send a mail with the outcome of the workflows (success, error, warning) to an administrator.
I don't want to always code the same mail activity with the same parameter values.
So my idea is to write one subprocess which handles the mail-routine with some input parameters (calling workflow-name, process state (success, warning, error)).
In the subprocess I want to test the input parameter "process-state". If the value is 0 (success) then a mail with the workflow name as subject should be generated incuding an static text e.g. "mapping successful". If the value is 1 then "mapping warning" and so on.
What OWB activity has to be choosen for testing the input parameter "process-state" like an if-then-else construct or a case-construct?
How can the value of the input parameter "workflow-name" be included in the mail-body?
Regards
Martin

To my experience, using the OWF for these things is not very practical. I would suggest that you would make your own PL/SQL procedude that does this, and then call that procedure from within the actual mapping (post-mapping), using the values you have there.
This might not be what you want, however. I simply find the email capabilities of OWF too limited for actual work.

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