A tip for those with a fully depleted batt

I just thought I'd post my experience, maybe it will help someone. I have a Zen V that I left sitting for a while and the battery was completely dead. As you've probably seen in other postings and in the knowledge base, the Zens have trouble recovering from this state. The symptoms for my Zen were: 1)plug in USB, 2)Blue LEDs behind play would light briefly, 3) "Low Battery" screen would flash just long enough to see it, 3)the screen would go black, LEDs off, no charging icon. I left it connected like this for about 8 hours and it never accepted a charge.
I believe this is primarily due to the fact that when you plug your Zen into a USB port, the first thing it tries to do is dock, which uses what little power might be left in the battery. Contrary to the information in the knowledge base, my Zen would not take a charge regardless of how long I left it connected like this. I guess it gets stuck in a weird state and never makes it to the "accept charge" state.
So, how to solve this The key is to connect it to a charging device that does not try to perform the dock operation. You have several options here. If you have a wall/travel charger, that would probably be easiest. What I did was use another (Linux) PC that did not have the Zen driver on it. As soon as i plugged it in, it began charging, and after about an hour it had enough charge to dock with my normal Windows PC. If you don't have either of those two options, I suspect that just booting your PC to Dos/Command Line would probably work because I doubt that the Zen driver would get loaded (I haven't tried this). Basically any way you can get your PC to power the USB ports without loading the Zen driver (uninstall maybe ) should do the trick.
I hope that all made sense and that it helps someone out there. I was about ready to send mine in for repair, but this saved me the trouble.

Excellent tip, shoeless!I had such problem with my Zen Vision M: 60 GB. I solved leaving it into the usb plug for many time. Maybe my laptop went in a standby mode and the player didn't try to dock, but it was enough to charge a bit the Zen, and after fully charged.

Similar Messages

JK Adobe TV - Top 5 Tips for Working with Vectors in CC

Julieanne Kost has just blogged about her Adobe TV video on working with shapes and paths in Photoshop CC. It's actually not that new to Adobe TV, and has already had a lot of views, but we get a lot of questions here on the subject with CC, and there are some nice little tips in it. I certainly learned a couple of things. :-)
http://blogs.adobe.com/jkost/2014/01/top-5-tips-for-working-with-vectors-in-photoshop-cc.h tml
http://tv.adobe.com/watch/the-complete-picture-with-julieanne-kost/top-5-tips-for-working- with-vectors-in-photoshop-cc/

My apologies, but I really had no interest in a member's "answer", especially one that is so unhelpful. Assuming that you were responding to me (we are the only two commenter's at this point), I would not be inclined to read the Creative Cloud offers since this is something that I am not interested in. I bought the product the first day of offer, I did not rent it....just like I have in all the years past.

Hi - I created a form in Adobe Livecycle and have a button on it to send the form via email. t worked, but only for those with PC. I could not get it to work with Apple Yosemite even with reader installed . is there a way i can make it work for apple /

Hi - I created a form in Adobe Livecycle and have a button on it to send the form via email. It worked, but only for those with PC. However, I could not get it to work with Apple loaded with Yosemite even with reader installed . Is there a way i can make it work for apple / Mac? It worked fine on a mac using Mountain Lion and reader
Thanks

LiveCycle = XFA forms.
afaik - These cannot be used in Apple OSs.
Be well...

How do I send my pages attachment so that it will open for those with Microsoft word?

How do I send my pages attachment so that it will open for those with Microsoft Word?

Hi Victoria,
Pages does not run on Windows.
Word cannot open a Pages file.
If you want someone without pages to be able to open your attachment, you will have to send it in a format openable on the recipient's computer.
If the recipient needs only to read the document, the most universal format is pdf. To send a pdf copy of your file, press command-P to open the Print dialogue, then click the PDF button and choose email PDF. This will open a new message in your default email client and attach the pdf file to that message.
If the recipient needs to be able to edit/change your document, and has MS Word, then either Save a copy as a Word file or go File > Export and choose Word as the file format for the export.
Be aware that MS Word does not support all features of Pages (and vice versa), and that formatting of the document may be affected by font substitution if you use fonts that are not available on the recipient's machine.
Regards,
Barry

Is the i phone any good for those with essential tremour

is the i phone any good for those with essential tremour

Hi auchenshugglegranny,
Welcome to the Support Communities!
The iPhone has a number of accessibility features that may be helpful to you, including Siri, which will accept voice commands. The article below will provide an overview for you.
Apple - Accessibility
http://www.apple.com/accessibility/
Below is a list of features included in the iPhone User Guide:
Accessibility features - iPhone
http://help.apple.com/iphone/7/#/iph3e2e4367
VoiceOver
Support for braille displays
Siri
Zoom
Invert Colors
Speak Selection
Speak Auto-text
Large, bold, and high-contrast text
Reduce onscreen motion
On/off switch labels
Hearing aids
Subtitles and closed captions
LED Flash for Alerts
Mono audio and balance
Call audio routing
Assignable ringtones and vibrations
Phone noise cancellation
Guided Access
Switch Control
AssistiveTouch
Widescreen keyboards
Turn on accessibility features. Go to Settings > General > Accessibility, or use the Accessibility Shortcut. See Accessibility Shortcut.
Use iTunes to configure accessibility. You can choose some accessibility options in iTunes on your computer. Connect iPhone to your computer and select iPhone in the iTunes device list. Click Summary, then click Configure Accessibility at the bottom of the Summary screen.
Hope this information helps ...
Happy Holidays!
Judy

Tips for working with USB floppy drives

I was just wondering if anyone had any tips on working with USB floppy drives in Archlinux.
One thing I've noticed is that trying to use mkfs.msdos on my USB floppy drive directly doesn't seem to result in a usable disk (it's mountable, but reports that I don't have enough space available to copy files), but if I use the command on an image file the same size as a floppy disk and then use dd to copy the blank image to my USB drive I get a disk that's perfectly usable. Anybody know what the deal is with that or how I might be able to successfully format a disk in fewer steps (other than keeping the blank images around and just using dd to format the floppies, haha)?
Also, I'd like to hear any other tips or tricks any of you have for working with USB floppy drives. They just seem so much more usable under Windows as opposed to Linux, and that disappoints me a little.

jmetal88 wrote:Okay, thanks guys. I haven't figured out the issue yet, but you're helping me narrow it down. I decided to run a df -h command after each try of formatting the disk this time. I tried the low-level ufiformat command followed by a mkfs.msdos on the device, using a 720k disk, and df -h showed 700k free on the file system. It's just not making the file system large enough (I believe the file I was trying to copy over was 710k or so). When I run mkfs.msdos on a 720k disk image and then dd the image over to the drive, df -h shows 713k free after mounting the drive. Any idea why mkfs.msdos isn't filling out the full 720k on the disk itself, but is on the image?
I would assume this happens because (as far as I can tell from skimming through the source over the course of a few minutes) mkfs.fat only applies floppy size heuristics to fd and lo devices -- your USB floppy drive is treated as a hard drive, and that leads to less-than-ideal default parameters. Run
fsck.fat -v
on the more spacious filesystem to figure out what options need to be set when you attempt formatting an actual disk. Or just make things easier by keeping newly-formatted blank disk images on hand so that dd and (maybe) ufiformat are all you need to worry about.

For those with battery drain / wifi issues

Many of you have found a temp fix related to exchange email accounts, this is not for you and I'm glad you have found something that seems to be working.
For those of you with battery oddities, something new to try...
See what security protocol your wireless router is using...is it WEP, WPA, WPA2, etc.
If you are using WEP, try changing to WPA/WPA2 and re-associate your iPhone with your wireless network.
IMPORTANT: Changing this setting on your router will disconnect all of your wireless network devices so only try this if you've tried everything else to this point and your phone is still acting up.
I've spent more hours troubleshooting over the last couple weeks than I care to admit. I noticed that both my routers at the office and at home were still configured using WEP protocol (older/insecure standard). I reconfigured my office network this morning with WPA and updated the configuration on my phone.
Well....................since doing this my 3GS is acting normal again (normal standby drain, not warm, wifi status bar icon not staying on constantly, etc.). So far NOTHING else has worked for me - restore as new, toggling various settings on/off, evaluating certain apps, reset settings/warnings on phone and in iTunes.
I'm curious to know if it makes a difference for any of you as this issue is certainly 'outside' of the phone itself but would make sense as some incremental firmware releases in the past have caused issues when connecting to different wireless networks.
Please report back if you try and after you've had a fair amount of time to evaluate. May just be another shot in the dark but so far it's peaked my curiosity.
Nathan

Thanks once again for your post nateinva. Ultimately it was your suggestion that got me going on the right track, but I had one additional variable...
So, after reading your post I did switch my router to WPA2 (which also necessitated reconfiguring all of my wireless devices) and then once again began testing my phone battery life. Alas, it was the same. It would drain inordinately at home on wifi, but otherwise was normal. Next I read something about router firmware, and indeed mine was a bit outdated, so I updated that to the latest version. Voila, now my battery performs as I would hope. I have several mail accounts, an exchange account and a bunch of other stuff going on. I do have push notification turned off. I now lose about 1% per hour which I find totally acceptable.
Many thanks for the helpful post.

Tips for dealing with large channel count on cRio

Hello, I have a very simple application that takes an analog input using an AI module (9205) from a thermistor and based on the value of the input it sends out a true/false signal using a digital out module (9477). Each cRio chassis will have close to 128 channels, the code being exactly the same for each channel.
I wonder if anyone has any tips for how I can do this so that I don't have to copy and paste each section of code 128 times. Obviously this would be a nightmare if the code ever had to be changed. I'm sure there is a way to make a function or a class but being new to graphical programming I can't think of a good way to do this. I looked for a way to dynamically select a channel but can't seem to find anything, if I could select the channel dynamically I'm guessing I can create a subvi and do it that way. Any tips or help would be greatly appreciated.

There isn't a way to dynamically choose a channel at runtime. In order
for the VI to compile successfully, the compiler must be able to statically
determine which channel is being read or written in the I/O Node at
compile time. However, that doesn't mean you can't write a reusable
subvi. If you right click on the FPGA I/O In terminal of the I/O Node and create a constant or control, you should be able to reuse the same logic for all of your channels. The attached screen shot should illustrate the basics of what this might look like. If you right click the I/O control/constant and select "Configure I/O Type...", you can configure the interface the I/O Item must support in order for it to be selectable from the control. While this helps single source some of the logic, you will still eventually need 128 I/O constants somewhere in your FPGA VI hierarchy.
I should also mention that if each channel being read from the 9205 is contained in a separate subVI or I/O Node, you will also incur some execution time overhead due to the scanning nature of the module. You mentioned you are reading temperature signals so the additional execution time may not be that important to you. If it is, you may want to look at the IO Sample Method. You can find more information and examples on how to use this method in the LV help. Using the IO Sample Method does allow you to dynamically choose a channel at runtime and is generally more efficient for high channel counts. However, it's also a lot more complicated to use than the I/O Node.
You also mentioned concerns about the size of arrays and the performance implications of using a single for loop to iterate across your data set. That's the classic design trade off when dealing with FPGAs. If you want to perform as much in parallel as possible, you'll need to store all 128 data points from the 9205 modules at once, process the data in parallel using 128 instances of the same circuit, and then output a digital value based on the result. If you're using fixed point data types, that's 182 x 26 bits for just the I/O data from the 9205. While this will yield the fastest execution times, the resulting VI may be too large to fit on your target. Conversely, you could use the IO Sample Method to read each channel one at a time, process the data using the same circuit, and then output a digital value. This strategy will use the least amount of logic on the FPGA but will also take the longest to execute. Of course, there are all sorts of options you could create in between these two extremes. Without knowing more about your requirements, it's hard to advise which end of the spectrum you should shoot for. Anyway, hopefully this will give you some ideas on where to get started.
Attachments:
IO Constant.JPG ‏31 KB

Simple Apps for those with mild dementia / Alzheimer's?

Hi,
I've been looking for some apps suitable for my dad who has dementia. He's quite young, and the only resources I can find regarding iPads and those with dementia are aimed at elderly people in the later stages of the disease. We've bought him an iPad as it's much easier for him to use than a laptop, and so far he is enjoying it and can use it himself fine.
Apps that he particularly likes are Fotopedia and 123D Sculpt (although this is a bit complex for him) so anything along the lines of photography, pictures, drawing etc would be appreciated, as long as it's very easy to use - I've looked into getting Brushes but am worried it will be too hard. He also browses eBay and Amazon etc, and iPlayer. When it comes to skill level, it needs to be something with really basic controls, not too many fiddly details and design options.
Any suggestions are welcome as I'm really struggling to find anything relevant or helpful online.
Thanks!

Mom has been living with me for a month now, with dimentia. She has ceased to do activities that were dear to her, reading, watching tv, or crossword puzzles. I downloaded a children's crossword puzzle on my ipad and showed her how to use the app. She was confused, but kinda got the idea of it. Confusing words was normal for her. But the first time at it, she spent two hours and kept saying this is a great game. Before going to bed she asked if she can play again tomorrow. I guess we have to go forward in baby steps, and I feel that the ipad was a great leap forward for Mom. I'm going to look tonight for other areas of the ipad that can benefit hr. I told her it was her physical therapy for her memory. I remember my Dad telling me - if you don't use it, you lose it.

Firefox Mobile available for those with no Android Market

Seems the article [http://support.mozilla.com/en-US/kb/install-firefox-mobile#os=android&browser=m6 "How do I install Firefox on a mobile device?" ] requires Android Market.
FYI: "Android Market" is only available with Google's GMS (Google Mobile Services) kit, and only for those devices Google has had the opportunity to approve. In addition there are limitations from which countries developers are allowed to publish and sell applications via Android Market.
Android being Open Source, is probably used on just as many non-certified by Google devices.
There are reputable alternative Marketplaces that power such devices ranging from tablets, Android TV's, E-book readers, etc that come preloaded (or for users download) such as the [http://slideme.org/sam "SlideME Market (SAM)" ]. Any reason, (beyond the effort it takes to stock the apk onto other stores) why Firefox Mobile for Android could not be on such stores, including Amazon Appstore (another reputable, but limited to US only)?

Firefox makes use of a lot of the features that the Android market has such as access to select devices (only ARMv7 + 512mb RAM), provides updates, and collecting Java crash data. If someone has a device that meets the minimum specs and wants to deal with updating Firefox themselves Firefox mobile can be found on the ftp.
Due to the above reasons and others I'm forgetting 3rd party markets are not a high priority.

Question for those with memory issues on k8n neo plat

I have been having issues with my memory on the k8n neo platinum board since i built the system last month and i just recently discovered a fact I had overlooked.
I Have discovered that if i test the system while it is cool (having sat turned off overnight for example), then memtest will pass the ram just fine and the system will be stable for a short period of time, generally longer if no intensive applications are used, ie. doom3 vs. websurfing).
This system, once it heats up ( seems mostly to be the nvidia 3 nb that needs to be "hot"- that is, a probe placed in contact with the module reaches about 58+ degrees c) then the system becomes unstable and memtest, if used, fails.
Prime95, if used on it when its cool, will usually take about an hour or so to fail, but if its used on the system when its been running a bit ( temps from nb at 58c+ and memory module hot to the touch) then it fails after about 20-30 seconds.
I have placed an active hs on the nb in an attempt to correct this, but temps still remain high with failures occuring.
I have spent the better part of three days testing the sytem this way and the above facts have held true in all these tests.
I have tested at stock ratings ( not using "auto" in bios, but using "approved ratings" of 10 x 200 for fsb and timings of 2-3-3-7 for my ram at 1:1 (which is recommended as well) since i am testing for base stability at this point;Voltages have been left at auto settings, however.
I was wondering if anyone else with memory issues could try this out and post if this seems to be the case for you as well.
Perhaps the memory issues on these boards are directly related to a problem with the nvidia 3 chipset running too hot?
Does anyone have a memory issue with these boards who is using water cooling on the NB ?
Lack of issues from people using 'problem" memory, but having no failures with water cooled nb's would support my assumption.

Yes i did mean chipset.
I am using a stock hs/fan from amd, which seems to run a tad hot but, considering that I wont overclock until I can get board stable, its not an issue. (runs 35-40 idle and up to 72 intensive). I need the warranty more then the extra mhz at present.
I removed the stock heatsink from the nvidia chipset and bought a generic chipset cooler (green, very little in the way of fins and seems to be aluminum) with a small fan.
I used a generic silver paste from Compusa to adhere both the cpu hs and the chipset.
I didnt lap either hs, just installed each as per instructions on artic silvers website (figured it had to go on the same way even generic).
I also bought a kingwin thermal center which i ran probes from to the cpu, case, and nb chipset.
I am not using it to adjust fans so those arent connected - its just a reference temp I can see at a glance, esp considering the funky bios reading this boards been known to give.
I assume from these responces that even a nvidia 3 250 chipset shouldnt get as hot as mine?
I asked about that from the retailer i bought this from but he seemed to think it was "ok" at 50ish celcius, but then again he didnt look too confident when he said it, lol.
Idle right now reads on Corecenter at 28 celcius for cpu and 33 celcius for the chipset, although, I have readings of 37 c and 43 c from the kingwin thermal center, which i believe to be more accurate.
My voltage reads at 11.67 for the 12v line at idle right now.
The psu i got is stick from the xblade case i bought in store. (http://www.xoxide.com/xblade2.html)
I have a dvd burner, cd drive, and two maxtor ide hd's attached to the system;The only card is the agp.
Is there a way to check and see if the cpu ispower starved? software monitor or even an external probe perhaps?
I havent put a probe on it, but the ram came in its own heatspreader, which gets very hot to the touch as well.
What temps should I be looking for on these items?

A suggestion for those with battery issues:

When I first got my iPhone, I had the same battery issues many people here are talking about, in fact I posted about it myself. Its fixed. Very fixed, and Im very happy with my battery life. Here is what I did.
First, do not charge it using your USB connection. At least not always. Why? I dont know. I did the first few days, and couldnt get a full charge even tho system wasnt going to sleep. I started using the wall charger, and got longer battery life, but still not great. One night, I forwarded the phone to my home phone in case I got a call, and shut the phone down completely, and put it on charge. In the morning, I woke up to a 100% charged, fully glowing battery icon. The battery lasted all day with no issues. Every night after that, I just charged it on the wall charger, but did NOT shut it down to see what happened. I am still waking up every morning to a 100% fully charged battery. The battery life seems to get better daily now.
Today, I ran wifi for about 5 hours because I forgot to shut it off. This was after going to the pool and listening to the iPod on the phone for about 2 hours. And using the phone normally throughout the day, checking mail, sms, etc. Really a full day of work, and my battery is still over 50% full. I purposely didnt connect it to anything during the day for a recharge, not the USB or wall charger.
Good luck, hope this helps. Id be interested to know if it does.

Here's my non-scientific experiment.
After surprising battery drain for the first 10 days or so with not much usage, I completely drained the battery yesterday until the phone shut off.
I plugged into AC charge and was worried when it didn't seem to even begin charging.
I plugged into USB, assuming it needed to charge enough to at least complete a sync.
I left it on USB until about 5-10% charge, then switched it to AC. At about 50% I needed to use it, so I did but sparingly, and put it back on charge, all the while keeping Mail on manual and WiFi off.
I took it off once more to get it home from the office, then plugged into AC.
I left that charging overnight.
I never actually got the "glow", but did get the plug icon showing full charge in the status bar.
After about 2 1/2 hours this morning, the status has not moved off of 100% (but with little usage as before).
This is definitely an improvement already though. Hope this helps.

A Few Quick Tips For Those Who Are New To Fios Quantum and the New Quantum Update

Most of those who have quantum received the new update early this morning (8/12/14)
There are a lot of people that are new to fios who never had anything prior to quantum so I thought I'd make this post to help.
Those who had the older boxes prior to quantum should already know about all of this.
The new update now reflects what the older stb/dr's have and have had for awhile now. There are now more menu settings you will want to go through.
The ad banner guide at the bottom can be disabled. Go to menu > Notifications > Guide Banner > set to disable
The banner will still be there, but will show Verizon rather then ads.
The home screen can be turned off. There is an option to turn it off within the home screen or you can go to menu > Notifications > Promotions > set to disable
The led on the boxes have been changed. If you want to change it go to menu > System > Media Server Settings > LED Brightness.
The Auto Power Off option is set to 4 hours by default. If you don't want the box to turn off automatically you will want to disable this. Menu > System > Media Server Settings > Auto Power Off > set to none
There is now the option to change the guides banners times outs. Menu > Settings > System > Television > Info Bar Time Out (also Channel Bar Timeout)
Some on other forums mentioned the video formats have been changed so its a good idea to check the option out to see if it reflects what you want. Menu > Settings > Audio & Video > Video Settings > Video Format
The aspect # button now works so any SD channels that are boxed can now be stretched using the # button.
I'm happy to see this option back.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Thanks for the info regarding the latest update. I like some of the new/improved options, however I am highly disappointed that the update discontinued the reminder option. I would think that setting a program reminder is a highly used feature and many will be unhappy now that it is gone. I know I surely am!

Is there a way to run firefox at a higher frame rate for those with monitors capable of 120hz?

I noticed that IE is smooth as silk when browsing websites compared to firefox. Is there an add-on or a setting I can change so that I can take advantage of my monitor which runs at 120hz?

ksinks wrote:
Thanks, how would you synchronize the loops? I have gone through the Getting Started exercises and manual.
Why would synchronization matter? Did you want them to run independantly at their own speed or not?
Regardless, there's a synchronization pallette with functions for this, as Occurance.
Other solutions include a common loop counter and a case structure executing every X'th iteration, or having the faster loop send a queue or event every X'th loop that controls the slower loop.
/Y
LabVIEW 8.2 - 2014
"Only dead fish swim downstream" - "My life for Kudos!" - "Dumb people repeat old mistakes - smart ones create new ones."
G# - Free award winning reference based OOP for LV

A suggestion for those with freezing dual-core 2.3 G5s (and maybe others)

I'm on my second dual-core 2.3 that's showing the random instability that many others are describing on the boards. To summarize:
- The kernel panic screen usually (but not always) appears.
- Within 10-20 seconds of the crash, fans come on full bore.
- Nothing of substance is recorded in the logs (at least not that I've found).
- Problem occurs with stock RAM as well as 3rd party modules.
- Crashes usually occur soon after a period of steady processor activity (playing large QuickTime movies, transferring files over the network, etc.)
- Problem exists under both 10.4.3 and 10.4.4.
- Apple's hardware test reports everything's fine.
- I've never been able to keep the machines up for longer than 3 days.
So I decided to give something a try that I happened to see in one of the many posts on the topic. In the Energy Saver pane, I've set Processor Performance from Automatic to Highest. And guess what? I've been doing all the same stuff I've always done, and haven't crashed for 6 days!
Just curious if others with similar symptoms have success with this...
Troy

Troy:
I've been using my PM dual core 2.3 GHz hard since November with nary a problem. I usually keep the Energy option at Automatic, unless I'm going to be running heavy-CPU database processes, when I set the CPU to Highest.
And I do watch movies fairly often on the 2.3.
I always use Software Update for OS and Security updates. I've been updating my Macs for years this way, and haven't seen a kernel panic since OS X 1.0. Permissions repair is always run before and after updates.
Cocktail and DiskWarrior are run periodically for maintenance. I probably run Cocktail every week or so, and DiskWarrior every few weeks just as preventive measures.
Knock on wood, this has been a very stable computer.

A tip for those with a fully depleted batt

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