Access point Signal strength

Could someone please tell me how to configure my WLC 2504 to set the associated access points signal strength to maximum?

You can set maximum power individually on each AP or you can set them globally to Power Level 1 which is the maximum power level by going to:
Wireless > 802.11b/g/n or 802.11 a/n/ac > RRM > Power Level Assignment Method > Fixed 1

Similar Messages

  • How can we access network signal strength of pocket PC in java 1.1.8?

    can anyone tell me if there is any way i can access the signal strength of a wireless access point by a java program for a pocket PC (Compaq iPaq)?
    the iPaq only supports java 1.1.8

    Hello,
    I'm a french student and I have exactly the same problem as you.
    It has been 3 weeks I'm searching, but I have not results.
    Today, do you have the solution????? If yes, can you tell me something about that??
    Thank you very much!!!
    Yohan
    can anyone tell me if there is any way i can access
    the signal strength of a wireless access point by a
    java program for a pocket PC (Compaq iPaq)?
    the iPaq only supports java 1.1.8

  • RE: How to secure an access point signal.

    Hi everyone,
    I have difficulty making my access point wireless signal secure. My network setup is simple, Modem to Router to Homeplug 1st floor, (secure wireless signal),
    2nd floor (secure signal). Problem when comes to 3rd floor, signal too weak, so I place Homeplug to Access Point. (wireless works well but not secured).
    Tried calling D-link support but was told that I need to fix static IP address before things can work. What the **** is that? Was told many technical issue about sub-net different, etc. Lastly the setup disc don't work with a Mac. (HaHa).
    Thank you all in advance for the solution.

    How are you going to connect them?  cat5 or coax?
    cat5 instructions:
    Can I use my wireless or an extra router along with the Verizon provided router?
    coax instructions:
    Can I get an ethernet connection in a room with only coax?

  • 1142 Access Point Signal pulsing

    Hi, I've recently set up a guest wireless in my office, using a WLC 2504 controlling 4 1142 APs. They have been working great for about a month, but as of yesterday, the Wifi signal from 2 of the APs began to pulse - 5 seconds on, 1 second off - which makes it unusable. They are connected as such:
    WLC direct to 3750, to another 3750 (~200ft run), to 1142 AP1 (~100ft)     THIS AP IS PULSING
    WLC direct to 3750, to another 3750 (~25ft run), 1142 AP2 (~50ft)     THIS AP IS PULSING
    WLC direct to 3750, to another 3750 (~25ft run), to 1142 AP3 (~200ft)     THIS AP IS WORKING NORMALLY
    WLC direct to 3750, to media transfer, 1000ft fibre to media transfer, to 3750 (~6ft), to 1142 AP (200ft) THIS AP IS WORKING NORMALLY
    All APs are receiving PoE from their last 3750 (at default levels). I've cycled the individual APs, as well as the WLC, but the issue remains.
    Except for the initial 3750 directly connected, all other 3750's are different.
    I not very familiar with the WLC/APs, so if you need more information to help me, please ask.
    Thanks!
    (attached is a pdf of the layout)

    When I say pulsating, I'm speaking in regards to the WiFi signal of the AP 1142. The signal comes up for about 5 seconds, then disappears. After a second or two, it's back, but disappears again. All of the APs are set at power level 1, and nothing else on the 3750's have PoE enable, so the power should be stable.
    I don't see anything that sticks out in the log, but I am not very familiar with the WLC. I've attached a copy of the log so you can take a look. I had to reboot the WLC this morning so the logs are a bit short.

  • IPhone signal strength: Numeric readout

    This article was posted in Mac-World last week and I really love it. Being able to see real numbers for signal strengh is so much better that the standard bar display. But even better the option to flip back and forth between both is the best. Try it out if you like:
    Bugs & Fixes: Tying up loose ends
    by Ted Landau, Macworld.com
    "Last week, I wrote about a potential problem where, in areas of weak signal strength, the iPhone 3GS might shift from 3G to EDGE in situations where the iPhone 3G remained (or appeared to remain) on the 3G network. At the end of the article, I mentioned using Field Test Mode (dialing 3001#12345#—and you have to do this manually; tapping on a contact for this number will not work). The less negative the number, the better your signal strength. For a reasonably reliable signal, the number should be less negative than -100. Ideal strength would be somewhere around -50.
    With this mode active, the bars display in the upper left of the iPhone’s status bar switches to a numeric indication of signal strength. Normally, when you press the Home button to quit the Phone app, the number goes away and the default bars display returns.
    However, there’s a way to keep the numeric indicator displayed permanently. To do so, all you need to do is force quit the Phone app. In iPhone OS 3.0, you do this by holding down the Power button until the option to “power off” appears. Rather than select to either power off or cancel, hold down the Home button. After a few seconds, the Phone app will force quit, with the number still there.
    It gets better. You can now toggle back and forth between the bars and the number by tapping on whichever item is displayed. This makes it easy to access the signal strength number without having to bother with Field Test Mode.
    What if you later decide you’d prefer the original bars-only default back? According to what I have read (I have not yet tried it to confirm), go to Settings -> General -> Reset and tap Reset All Settings. Selecting the less disruptive Reset Network Settings isn’t sufficient. Unfortunately, after resetting, you’ll have to re-enter all your iPhone settings (which is why I haven’t bothered to test it out as yet)."

    Is there a way to access this information from the API? I'd love to see a google maps mashup of cellular black holes. I'd MAKE one.

  • Expanding signal strength to Express airtunes with 2nd AEBS

    Herr0,
    I currently have my AEBS(n) tapped into the cable modem in my entertainment room. Problem is that it is on the very opposite side of the house and I want to stream airtunes to my Express stations located throughout the house (http://bp2.blogger.com/_SV-StZbqvdw/RgRPAyXhzJI/AAAAAAAAAGI/5dXJkX4Nz4k/s1600/ho menetwork.JPG)
    I also have one in my garage.
    The airtunes signal continutes to cut out in the pool room, so I know I need to extend the range of my WiFi, and I am thinking of buying a 2nd AEBS(n) and placing it in the kitchen to be a remote base station to help feed signal to the express stations in the kitchen and pool room.
    Will this work? Will my speed suffer? Is their a cheaper way to extend the range of my wifi from my AEBS located in the media room?

    Hello iSearched. Welcome to the Apple Discussions!
    Before buying another router, I suggest that you do a simple RF site survey using your MacBook Pro and the freeware iStumbler utility.
    Use iStumbler's Inspector feature (select Edit > Inspector from iStumbler's menu) to determine the Signal-to-Noise Ratio (SNR) at different points around your house. Within the Inspector, note the values for "signal" & "noise" at these locations. Start with your MBP near the AEBSn, note the readings, and then, choose the locations where you would want to place the AirPort Express Base Station (AX).
    SNR is the signal level (in dBm) minus the noise level (in dBm). For example, a signal level of -53dBm measured near an access point and typical noise level of -90dBm yields a SNR of 37dB, a healthy value for wireless LANs.
    The SNR of an access point signal, measured at your MBP, decreases as range to the source increases because the applicable free space loss. An increase in RF interference from microwave ovens and cordless phones, which increases the noise level, also decreases SNR.
    SNR Guideline
    o 40dB+ SNR = Excellent signal
    o 25dB to 40dB SNR = Very good signal
    o 15dB to 25dB SNR = Low signal
    o 10dB to 15dB SNR = Very low signal
    o 5dB to 10dB SNR = No signal
    If the SNR is 20dB+ at each of these locations, then you should be getting reasonable performance from your AirPort. If less, either try to locate the source of the Wi-Fi interference or try relocating either the base station or the wireless clients until they are within a 20dB SNR range. If neither of these help, then the next step would be to add another base station. However, you want to avoid setting up a Wireless Distribution System (WDS), if possible, because for each base station added, the overall bandwidth is cut in half.
    Btw, nice setup!

  • Third Party Signal Repeaters/Wireless Extenders for Boosting Cisco Access Points Indoors

    We are have some buildings that have access points (Cisco 2602e with 6dBi Terrawave omni antennas) in the hallways, in which the clients residing in rooms aren't receiving a strong enough signal to connect at suitable rates. The main reason for this is the large thick doors utilized for the client rooms reducing the strength of the signal, and we weren't authorized to place APs inside the rooms. Nor are we able to modify the structure of the building, such as changing the doors. We can't ask or expect the clients to keep their doors open to rcv a stronger signal. I've tweaked the Tx power for the APs, and lowered the mandatory rates on the WLC for this location under the RF profile created for it, but this isn't resolving the issue with the weak signal.
    One band aid solution idea was to place signal repeaters (low profile) inside each room, behind the wall/door area facing the hallway. I've seen a few third party products online, but they seem to only come in support of the 2.4GHz band. If this is a feasible solution, then it looks like we wouldn't be able to support clients on the 5GHz band on our AP, as clients would most likely connect to the 2.4 GHz band due to a stronger signal, limiting our load balancing on the AP. Anyone have experience with using signal repeaters that work properly with Cisco APs.
    Not the ideal situation, but have the hands strapped on what we can do.

    If you've got a WLC, then disable TPC and crank up the power to full.  

  • How to add a second router as access point and wifi signal extender

    Previously I had 2 linksys routers and was able to configure them as one in separate areas of my house.  I think it is called cascading.  The 2nd router acted as an ethernet switch with 4 extra ports and it provided a wifi signal to areas of my house that previously had a weak signal when I used only one router.
    I have since switched to an Airport Extreme as my main router.  I can't seem to get the same configuration with the linksys router, it is Model E1000 and has an "N" signal.  The Linksys E1000 I think is the newer model of the old WRT54G Linksys.  I can't get it configured to work.  I have searched high and low on the internet and can't find anything simple enough for a novice to understand.  I did read something that I may have to assign a "DHCP Reservation" on the Apple Extreme.  I couldn't figure that out.
    Can somebody please offer some guidance on how to get this to work?
    Thanks

    You have two routers producing two networks with the same name, so they will show up as two networks on any type of scan by a wireless utility. This is normal.
    If you had used two Linksys devices, they would probably show up as one network, not two. Linksys has a feature that allows this to occur, but this is not true of Apple devices.
    As long as the wireless network name, wireless security and password match up between the two routers, the two networks will behave as if they were one. As computers change location, they will automatically connect to the wireless access point with the strongest signal.

  • How to setup a wrt54g router as a wireless access point to extend wifi signal from e3200

    how do i setup a wrt54g router as a wireless access point to extend wifi signal from e3200 which is broadcasting the internet?
    everyone keeps saying to remove the stock firmware and instal the dd-wrt firmare to do this. can i do this with the stock firmware?
    any tips to avoid interfearance once setup?

    You have to connect both with a cable.

  • TS3623 I cannot activate my 3rd gn AppleTV due to NetworkTime problems, what is that? I am able to mirror fine. And my network read shows that I am accessing my network, with good signal strength, but the net work time has stopped me cold.

    I am able to mirror fine, but that limits me, my wifi extend only to airplay, my ipad, my iphone, but not the store, or netflix Network stats are good, and signal strength excellent, but due to the problem of failing to  set my Network time no activation. I have unplugged and replugged so many times my i need to see a chiropractor. What gives, I have seen this question on the forums but no diffinative answer. HELP!! —Bob

    Try a reset or restore if you can get to that.  I found when trying to use a wired ethernet setup (which wouldn't work but that is another story) that I couldn't even get to the menus without the atv3 wanting to connect with apple for the time.  When I went back to wireless, I got the tome sync to let me get to the menus but then an apple rep had me restore or reboot (I forgot which sorry) and then I finally got my wired connection to work.  That is, until tonight and I am having to download the 4 hour update.  Download to what, I don't know.

  • Can I use my WRT160N V1 as a signal booster/access point?

    I have a Linksys WRT160N router that I want to use as an access point for my basement devices. The main modem is a Century Link PK5001A. How would I go about setting this up?
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    If the main modem is also a router than follow the Cascade LAN to LAN instructions below:
    https://community.linksys.com/t5/Wireless-Routers/Using-WRT54G-as-second-wireless-with-E2500/m-p/804...
    Please remember to Kudo those that help you.
    Linksys
    Communities Technical Support

  • Mid 2010 iMac Wifi signal strength issue

    I am having issues maintaining a robust Wifi signal on my 21.5 inch 2010 iMac with 10.6.5 installed.
    my symptoms are very similar to what is described in this post:
    http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2596933&tstart=0
    in addition to that I am experiencing the following symptoms:
    can't print to HP wireless printer
    remote app for iphone doesn't find the iMac
    mobile mouse remote app doesn't find the iMac
    can't ping the iMac from Windows laptops on the same subnet or from the router itself
    accumulation of send and receive errors in Network Utility
    these symptoms occur after the machine has been connected to wifi for 30 minutes or so. Turning off Airport and turning it back on temporarily fixes the issue. the Mac firewall is turned off.
    as reported in the post mentioned above, signal strength for my Windows laptops and other devices is consistently -25 but the iMac signal strength fluctuates wildly.
    One more troubleshooting step that I have taken is to install Windows 7 on a boot camp partition to rule out the iMac hardware and physical location as the issue. While booted into Windows the iMac did not exhibit any of the above symptoms and held a steady -25 strength signal.
    Lastly I am using a TrendNet Wireless N Access Point but have also tried an Apple Extreme and Express (both N). I've tried 2.4Ghz and 5Ghz on various channels. I've even tried dialing down to G mode.
    I've read other posts about DNS settings, Static instead of DHCP addressing, etc. and none of these has solved this issue.
    Thoughts anybody? TIA

    Update concerning additional troubleshooting steps that I have taken.
    1) did a clean install of OS 10.6.3 onto an external drive and managed to replicate the issue....so that rules out apps, preference files, etc.
    2) managed to get a little bit more stability by setting up an Airport Express in 5Ghz mode with Interference Robustness turned on and the multicast rate set at 9Mbps....of course ios devices don't do 5Ghz so I still have to run another AP...so not an acceptable solution.
    What else do I need to do to prove that it's a Mac OS software issue?

  • Looking for a good app for viewing Wifi access point info

    Does anyone know of an app which will show me all of the access points within reach - even if they all have the same name - and will display signal strength as well as other data?
    I work in a place where I have to test the APs and verify that each one of them is up and running. They all have the same name so I need to verify their uniqueness by the MAC address. I also would like the ability to connect to a particular AP in the list and stay connected to it as I travel past other APs of the same name.
    I tried WifiTrak but it crashes upon startup. I'm hesitant to buy an app without a recommendation because of this. I'm also hesitant to try WifiFoFum because it wasn't all that great on my WM device and it costs money.
    Any suggestions?

    Thank you for your research on my behalf, but as I mentioned in the original post I have tried WiFiFoFum on a Windows Mobile device for free and it was kind of a turd. This makes me very hesitant to purchase it for my iPhone. If they offered a trial version I would give it a shot.
    Has anybody actually tried any really good wifi network information tools for iPhone? Can anybody make a recommendation based on experience?

  • Newly installed OS 10.3.1.1565 - Where have all my Access Points gone?

    I have a 2 access points at home, 1 is my original modem, and the other is my Dual Channel Netgear router. This provides access points on the 2.4Ghz channel and on the 5Ghz channel - all of which you can give different access point names and security passcodes if you wish. On top of this, there's also provision for a guest account on each band, which again can be named anything you want.
    Anyway, before my Z10 automatically download and installed OS10.3.1.1565 last week, my phone could see and report all 5 of my access points (via Wifi Analyser). Now, with this O.S., it refuses to report all 5 access points and will only display the AP that's connected. It does however show me all my neighbours AP names. It just hides my 4 idle APs - as presumably it knows they're all part of the same network. I've tried various WIFI analysers but they ALL behave in the same manner. This appears to be a function of the phone's O.S.
    As I walk around the house, the phone does drop the weak AP and suddenly discover and report my alternate AP - though It's very cumbersome. I liked being able to see all of my APs on WIFI Analyser as it helped build confidence that I had reasonable coverage around the house. Now with this O.S. I feel like I've lost 4 access points.
    I don't understand why my phone now disregards 4 of my access points and doesn't display them through any of the WIFI Analyser tools.  My various other devices around the house (all running WIFI Analyser) report the signal strength of all 5 access points.  I've tried toggling the 'Inter Access point Handover' setting, as well as enabling IPV6, but to no avail.  I hope this isn't the design intent, and that one day I can view all 5 of my APs again.

    Completely disappeared.  Not listed in the Networks and Connections screen.
    This just lists the currently connected Access Point.  WIFI Analyser does the same - it appears that 4 of my access points don't exist.
    That is until I walk out of range of the connected AP, and the phone suddenly displays the next AP and hides the previous one.
    Before this update, I could see all 5 APs from anywhere in the house (albeit at various signal strengths)

  • How do I configure WRT54G as a wireless access point?

    Ater a whole series of problems related to Vista, a WAP54G, Airport xpress, wireless printers, etc. plus at least three hours on the phone with Linksys tech support acessing my computer remotely and still not fixing the problems, I dumped my WRT54GC for a Belkin-N router.  I set it up over the weekend and slowly regained internet access, then the pinter, then the Airports. 
    I still would like to have an access point because my signal strength even with the new N router is too weak downstairs to allow my PS3 to connect to it.  I cannot figure out how to configure the WAP54G to make it work.  I want to take a shot with the WRT54GC.  From what I've read, I should be able to do it. 
    I can get into the router (referring to the Linksys) no problem.  I can reconfigure it to an extent, changing the IP address to the recommended 192.168.1.2.  I do this by running an ethernet cable from my PC to the router.  Howver, after changing the IP address in the router I can't get into it any more using the new IP address.  When I attach teh Linksys router to the Belkin I can't get in either.
    Both the Linksys and the Belkin use 192.168.1.1 as the default IP address for each device. 
    I would like to know what settings I need to change i nteh WRT54G to turn it ino an access point -- an extenson of my existing network with teh Belkin router attached to the Comcast modem.  I have looked at various how-to's and they all seem to assume I am connecting the two routers with an ethernet cable.  If it's not clear at this point, I'd like to connect them wirelessly.
    Thanks.

    Thanks so much for the reply.
    I was working with it all last night and somethign strange happened.  After reading some other info on the internets, I changed the IP address on the WRT to 192.168.2.1.  It updated, I then ran the wire from the Belkin to the WRT, I typed in 192.168.2.1, it took me to the Linksys setup page, but when I clicked "wireless" in the WRT setup, it took me to the Belkin setup page.  How in the world did that happen?
    Armed with tis new info, I did a hard reset on the WRT -- assuming it would change the WRT back to 192.168.1.1 -- got into the setup, turned off DHCP, left the IP as .1.1, and then wired it again into the Belkin.  I can now get into the setup of either one.
    Here's the thing:  I don't want the two routers wired together.  I want to move the WRT downstairs so a PS3 can pick up the signal.  I want the WRT to wirelessly relay that signal to the Belkin to get the PS3 onto the net.  I can't run a wire from the Belkin to the WRT. 
    I've read conflicting reports about whether the  WRT can do this.  Other sites suggest adding 3rd party firmware to add that functionality but that will definitely push the bounds of my abilities and likely exceed them.  So, can the WRT even function in this way? 
    Inre the WAP, I don' know why but my ability to access the setup menu via 192.168.1.245 is very hit or miss -- much miss than hit.  It makes no sense unless there is a bad connection somewhere because I hard reset, wire it to my laptop, put in the IP, and time out 19 times out of 20.  I've got the MAC address for the router, and I think I know I want it to function as a repeater, but I've not been able to get that working right eihter. 
    Thanks for any further reply.

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