Acrobat 9.2 open doc high CPU

Hi.
I am running Acrobat 9.2 on WIn7 32bit.I have a quad core 4gb ram machine and when i open any PDFs in Acrobat 9.2 it takes 25% cpu usage for around 5-30 seconds depending on the size of the PDF. During that time Acrobat is unusable and i have to wait for it to finish what ever it is doing. Once its finished you see the "document loader progress bar" on the bottom right hand corner and your good to go.
Does anyone have any advice of how i might resolve this? Other PCs dont have the issue with the same docs, and my old XP machine was fine
Thanks in advance

Hi
I upgraded incrementally to 9.4.1 and the problem still persists.
Any more ideas? i have a feeling it may be the reading part which reads all the text in the PDF incase you want it read out loud. Its takes longer on biger PDFs and it uses about 25% of the CPU and Acrobat is unusuable while its doing it
Cheers
Pete

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user12022918 wrote:
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**Click the KUDOS thumb up on the left to say 'Thanks'**
Make it easier for other people to find solutions by marking a Reply 'Accept as Solution' if it solves your problem.

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Refer::-----------
==============
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So lets get to the point.I clean installed Windows 10 Tech Preview Build 9841 x64 on my Hp pavilion g4 1303-au laptop
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We have found that the information bubbles that open up in the top right hand corner of pdf documents can consume a lot of CPU, when visible for a user on our RDS servers Acrobat Reader would consume anything between 14-25% of CPU resource. This turned out to be very easy to resolve - first you can simply close the info bubble as the user, this setting is then retained for the next time any pdf documents are open. However this was not a suitable fix for the several hundred users that we have regularly connected to our various RDS farms. Instead we added the following registry settings to each users profile via our logon scripts - these disable the info bubbles and therefore prevent the high CPU usage.
KEY = HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Adobe\Acrobat Reader\11.0\AVGeneral
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Attn: ALL APPLE PORTABLE OWNERS -Macbook Pro, MacBook Air Apple portable slowdown / kernel high CPU solution

Attn: ALL APPLE PORTABLE OWNERS -MacBook Pro, MacBook Air, Mac mini slowdown kernel / high CPU use problem and solution.
YOU COULD FRY YOUR COMPUTER IF YOU DO NOT FIX THIS PROBLEM SO PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE MESSAGE!
YOUR MAC WILL THANK YOU
Hey all.
Like many of you I've got a newer Apple portable which slows down to an unusable level for an unknown reason. In my case a 13" mid 2009 Intel MacBook Pro Core 2 duo laptop. After many failed attempts to figure out what this nutty problem is I have discovered the problem, the solution and I have solved this for my own MacBook Pro. Since this fix it has been working immediately and consistently -without issue
I am sharing this with you in hopes that you to can fix your Apple portable yourself or so you know what to tell the Apple techs so they can quickly fix your Mac from this wacky and unfortunate kernel CPU hogging problem.
User Software Symptoms :
Your Apple portable computer periodically for an unknown reason slows down making everything frustratingly slow. This happens even when running previous apps that were never a problem; things that your Mac should be able to handle easily but for some reason now it can't.
Slowdown most often happens during high CPU use such as gaming, video playback/editing, etc. or when running multiple apps (even non CPU intensive apps) at the same time.
Possible Hardware Symptoms:
Your computer is making more noise than it did previously.
Your computer occasionally makes more noise but then gets quieter.
Your computer is always extremely quiet (too quiet) even during high CPU apps -worst case scenario.
It feels hotter than it normally does. Test: After several minutes of the slowness/high kernel CPU touch the computer to feel if it's hotter than normal.
Looking at Activity Monitor (in the Utilities folder) shows the kernel_task is going bonkers eating up CPU but you have no idea why.
After trying many different things to solve this problem such as :
PR ram reset, SMC reset, fresh OS install of 10.5 and 10.6 on external hard-drives, calling and speaking to various Apple tech people who had no ideas/solutions, etc. I had no luck.
Btw, if you're having the symptoms I've decscribed above I would not run the Apple Hardware check (read below as to why). You could fry your Mac!
After much testing I found the problem :
It is my belief that "recent" Apple portable computers are using low quality internal fans which soon stop working!
Fail time period seems to be about 1.0 years to 2.5 years of use but this fail rate could vary depending on use.
First noticeable symptoms (depending on what you notice) could be computer slowdown or your fan is making more noise than it normally does. This is your fan's lubrication slowly eroding making your fan spin slower and less smooth resulting in the louder noise and slower rpm spin speed. The slower fan spin speed means less cooling is happening for your computer. The effect on your computer is that the CPU and other chips are heating up! Overheating to be more specific. When your computer's chips overheat they get wonky and screw things up. Most often this seems to have the effect of making the kernel hog CPU resulting in a frustratingly slow user experience! Heat kills computer chips and it is extremely bad for them. Extreme overheat or repeated overheating has been said to shorten the life of computer chips or in extreme cases even fry them completely!
The longer this goes on without being fixed your fan loses more lubrication and spins slower and slower cooling lesser and lesser resulting in your CPU heating up more and more possibly shortening the life of your Mac! Eventually your fan will stop completely and you could fry your chips! My fan stopped completely and my MBP was running very quietly, too quietly. Luckily I did not fry my chips because I was avoiding using high CPU apps because I knew something was wrong due to the massive slow down and wonkiness when I'd run them.
Side Note:I'm a bit concerned about all those Mac mini servers which may be using the same defective low quality fans which cannot be easily serviced by their owners as they are co-located in some server facility. One positive thing is those facilities are usually well airconditioned keeping temps low.
I suggest you do not run the Apple hardware test if you suspect your computer is overheating because the hardware test can seriously heat up your Mac! I tried running this test and my Mac got so hot I had to shut it down forcefully and I was concerned I damaged the chips. If you want to run the Apple hardware check make sure your CPU temperature is ok and that your fan works well before you run the test.
IF YOU DON'T FIX THIS PROBLEM YOU COULD FRY YOUR COMPUTER DUE TO HEAT DAMAGE!
DO NOT IGNORE THIS PROBLEM YOUR MACS LIFE MAY DEPEND ON IT!
First you need to properly diagnose this problem and see if your CPU is getting to hot and you need to see if your fans are spinning at high rpms giving proper cooling, or if they are spinning at low rpms when running high intensive apps as your CPU temp increases.
TEST IF YOUR FAN(s) IS WORKING CORRECTLY :
Unfortunately Apple does not include CPU temperature reading software nor fan rpm speed software that I am aware of.
However, There are two free ways that I know of to check your CPU tempurature and your fan speed :
One app shows fan speed, and CPU heat, etc.
One app shows fan speed, CPU heat and allows you to adjust your fan speed settings.
One app is a dashboard widget, the other is a system preference.
I suggest you download both of these to check your computer statistics.
http://www.eidac.de/?p=134
http://www.islayer.com/apps/istatpro/
http://fan-control.en.softonic.com/mac
I am not exactly sure what proper CPU temperatures are for the different Apple computers and this will change given different CPU loads.
My MBP doesn't seem to function properly with anything around 90 degrees or higher (celcius).
It seems when the fan is operating normally the CPU temp should not stay above 78 degrees even under heavy load, at least with the apps I'm running in the room temperature I'm in.
I can post back later with more specific temps under longer load, etc. but I wanted to get this post up for people to read as soon as possible so they don't fry their Macs.
If a bad fan is your problem :
THERE ARE ONLY TWO SOLUTIONS FOR THIS PROBLEM :
Fix or replace your fan so it cools the CPU and other chips properly.
I fixed my fan myself and I didn't need to buy a new one. Total cost was about $8.00 because I had to buy a #00 sized screwdriver and had it shipped to me. Price includes shipping.
On my mid 2009 model MacBook Pro fixing the fan was incredibly easy :
Before I started doing this I wasn't 100% this was the problem so I decided to try to fix my fan instead of ordering a new one and replacing it. As it turns out I didn't need a new fan, I only needed to clean the existing fan and relube it's axl so it could spin easier like when it was new. It also didn't make sense to buy a brand new fan from an Apple authorized parts reseller selling me the same low quality fan for $49.00 which would probably fail in 2 years again. Prices for new comparable fans from different manufactures range from about $15.00 USD + shipping to around $49.00 USD + shipping depending on where you order them from and what brand you get.
How to fix / replace your internal fan on a mid 2009 MacBook Pro :
Please note : I am not a hardware technician, nor expert. If you decide to fix your Mac yourself you do so at your own risk through no fault of my own. Prior to opening up your Mac you should google around and learn how to do it correctly and safely so you won't damage your Mac. For example, it is possible for you to damage your Mac by static electricity from your body. To avoid this I believe proper procedure is that you wear a 'ground strap' (around your wrist) which you clip to your Mac's metal body so your body will not excude a charge into your Mac. I believe the idea here is to keep your body's charge level and your Mac's similar. Since I do not have a ground strap and fixing/replacing the fan doesn't require touching any chips I did not wear a ground strap during my fan fix. What I did was periodically repeatedly touch the metal case of my MBP hoping that would be enough and it was. Avoid unecessary actions that can build up a static charge in you. Once I started the repair I did not walk around the room building up an electrical charge in my body. Walking on carpet can often build up a large charge in us so it is better to be avoided while working on your Mac. Certain clothing can build up static charges. Combing hair, etc. If you need to get up from your repair when you come back make sure you first touch the Mac's metal case and not anything inside.
Now that we're done with the scary paranoia, below you will find some instructions on how I fixed my MBP's internal fan
Before you begin:
Check out someone's video (not mine) on how to remove / replace the fan (but not take it apart and repair it):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AghE9newvbs
Check out someone's web page (not mine) on how to replace the fan in a mid 2009 MacBook Pro:
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-MacBook-Pro-13-Inch-Unibody-Mid-2009-Fan/ 1338/1
How to repair your mid 2009 MacBook Pro fan:
Make sure you are in a 'secure' environment. No pets, no kids running around, no drinks near the Mac, etc.
Make sure your computer is unplugged from it's power supply and turned off. NOT slept. Totally off / powered down.
1. Get a size #00 phillips screwdriver (Hobby store, Radioshack, Amazon).
2. Open up your MBP by unscrewing the bottom (yes flip it over so it's resting upsidedown). Note where each screw goes because some are different lengths. I placed each one around my MBP where they go, insuring I know their order (don't jumble them up). Note which direction your MBP is facing when it's upside down so if you spin it around while working on it you still know where the screws go.
2b. Some recommend removing the MBP's battery but I didn't do this step. You probably should, just to be safe. Follow the online instructions from the web page I listed about disconnecting the battery.
3. Unscrew the fan's 3 holding screws.
4. Unplug the fan's electrical connection (lift it straight up off the board). If you need to you can try to pry it up while you lift with a non metal/non electrical conductive object like a spudger if you have one or -perhaps a pen cap. Before you remove it, look closely at how it's attached so when you put it back on you won't wonder if you're doing it correctly. There's only one way it can go because it cannot fit 'the wrong way' but looking at it closely will make you feel more confident popping it back on when the time comes.
5. Remove the fan - it easily lifts out.
6. Take the fan apart by unscrewing it's one screw then unlatching the plastic clips which hold it together.
7. Seperate the fan blades from the housing. Lift the fan blades off of the fan housing by pulling it straight out away from the housing.
8. Clean off the dust that's gathered. A can of compressed air helps here (I didn't have one). I used a little brush from my electric shaver kit which worked well. Once you've removed all the dust from the fan and surrounding areas proceed to the next step.
9. Reapply new lubrication. You need less than 1 drop. Be sure it covers the entire fan blade axl as this is what needs to be well lubricated. Make sure there isn't excess oil that will fly around when the axl/fan spins at high rpms. I used the only oil I had which was olive oil (for cooking!) but I do not suggest this. At the time I was doing this I didn't know my fan was the problem so I wasn't even sure I was going to relube it. You should probably use something more appropriate perhaps like 3 in 1 oil. A good idea would be to call the manufatures of these little fans and ask them. Maybe a hobby store knows of good lubricants for these purposes?
DO NOT use things like WD 40 as it's not a long term lubricant or so I've read.
10. Once your fan is now clean and oiled (make sure there isn't too much oil) reassmble the fan.
Push the fan blades/axl back into the housing shaft. Give it a few spins with your finger.
Screw together the fan housing then reclip the clips.
11. Place the now reassembled fan back into your Mac and screw it in place (3 screws).
12. Reattach the fan's electrical wiring by gently pushing it into place. Make sure you've got the right end facing down before you push it in place.
13. Once your Mac's internals are clean and reassembled, place the rear cover back on your Mac and screw it in place.
14. Double check you didn't forget anything like screws, tools, etc.
15. Boot up your Mac and monitor the temperature and fan speed using those programs.
Compare the previous temps/fan speed to the current temp/fan speed.
Run a high CPU intensive app where your computer has been slowing down.
You should now have a happy Mac
If you have this problem and this solution fixed it for you please post in this thread letting me and everyone else know!
Hope that helps.

Thanks for your lengthy reminder dude, I have a similar Mac with yours. I suspect its a software fault because it happens after I upgraded to Lion, 10.7.2.

Tecra M2 - hard shutdown on high CPU (turns off with no BSOD)

Have been experiencing consistent shutdowns when CPU runs at full for a little while.
- by "shutdowns" I mean complete power cut with no blue screen of death where all is lost and the computer has to be manually restarted.
- by "high CPU" I mean when the processor locks at full usage such as when you insert a column into a large Excel sheet with errors or when you are RARing a large number of files and you open a video from the network or when you run a virus scan and registry scan at the same time.
The problem has been occurring regularly for a couple of months and I can now manufacture an occurrence with high predictability. Using the hardware monitor suite 'Everest', it seems the problem happens when the CPU temperature sits at 99 for more than a minute or so.
It happen with some but never when running from batteries - during attempts to force the error, it will not shutdown if the power cable is pulled out just before the crash point.
In many instances of the problem, there seems to be a small error message which pops up only a fraction of a second before the computer dies.
Every forum and help reference I read would suggest the problem is hardware related and that the chip or motherboard is overheating and in need of replacement. While the laptop is nearly 18 months old, I bought a new "everything but the screen and HDD" early this year and was not prepared to accept the explanation without more testing.
Kantonix Linux works fine and the boot from CD seems to tax the processor as much as the same events that are killing it for me under XP.
A few weeks back, I installed the WinXP on a second HDD in the hotswappable bay and noted the installation seems to run the computer pretty hot and it did not die during the process. No problems were experienced for while but, a few days after moving the reinstalled HDD into the primary position and having reinstalled many many applications, the error started happening again.
Last night I caught it just fractions of a second before death, pulling the power and stopping the process and allowing me to see the error message (as referred above) properly:
- first message was from "TOSHIBA Power Saver" saying "A fatal errorn has occurred x06" (not sure on the last bit)
- second message was from "THotkey.exe" saying "Cannot load powrprof.dll"
- many hundreds of instances of the second message followed.
Due to error messages, I wasn't able to get a screen print.
Any solutions or even ideas about such would be very much appreciated!
Message was edited by: DC-Financial

Hello Markus, thank you for your suggestion and apologies for the lateness of this reply (thought I was supposed to receive email notification (?!?)).
I agree with your initial assessment "sounds like software related issue" and I would hate to think it is hardware - am die hard Toshiba man! (onto my 5th in as many years) .
Anywho, I have been through all the power saver options, as well as the CPU options under the Toshiba HWSetup: the system crashes under all situations if properly encouraged.
NB: Per my understanding, one shouldn't be able to crash a Pentium M, operating within the acceptable environmental conditions and I am working in a room between 16 & 20 degrees.
It is much more difficult to crash when it has been off for a while (ie. when it is cooler) and is more difficult to crash when on batteries as opposed to AC. Tried switching the RAM during the week and after mistakenly thinking it was all fixed, the problem resurfaced again. While I had the keyboard off, I had a look at the fan and there is a bit of dust on it but not very much. I have a Tecra M3 also, which is only half the age and, compared the fans, the M2 is about twice as dusty [if it were on your dinner table you'd wipe it down but there is not so much that you would imagine it to be a problem].
I mentioned previously that I was using Everest to monitor outputs from the temperature sensors and that crashes occur when the CPU temperature sits at 99 degrees for a while. Sometimes after turning it on after a crash, Everest is not able to display the CPU temperature. Am very reluctant to believe that the heat sensor on the chip has malfunctioned as all the internals were replaced in January (as was stolen and recovered somewhat worse for the adventure).
I have had to bite the bullet and move all my work to the Tecra M3 but am not very happy with this (the M3 I have is 1.86Ghz w/ 512MB vs 2.03Ghz w/ 1536MB RAM in the M2). As I'm sure you will appreciate, the cost of the M2 has now already been spent many times over in lost work time but one needs to know if they have an error related to software or if it is hardware, so as not to live in fear of a recurrance.
I will reinstall the M2 OS as soon as the work lag is caught up again (probably later this week) but really don't know what to try other than crash testing after each piece of software is reinistalled. Note, have already run the Toshiba Hardware Diagnosis console with no errors identified.
If you have any suggestions or thoughts on what I should try they are greatly appreciated!

Acrobat 9.2 open doc high CPU

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