Actiontec MI424-WR Rev. E and Windows 8

Will this router I have funtion with W8.
Thanks

prisaz wrote:
 Actiontec MI424-WR Rev. E worked with mine until the East Coast storm crashed my system at the beginning of July. I found that Windows 8 does not take kindly to not being shut down properly or, multiple power losses. Put it on a UPS. Mine needs new batteries.
Windows 7 doesn't either.  Corrupted disk indexes and something broken in startup.  Luckily system repair fixed the startup issue and several hours of disk activity straightened out the indices.  More of an issue is the disappearance of all my usb 2 ports.  Luckily still have 2 usb 3 ports so have a kb and mouse again.

Similar Messages

  • Replace Actiontec MI424-WR Rev C with Rev F

    I am considering the purchase of a new Actiontec MI424-WR Rev F router, in order to get Gigabit ethernet and Wireless N.  Is it possible to replace my current Verizon supplied Actiontec MI424-WR Rev C without involving Verizon support?  Can I just release the lease on the old one, then plug in the new one?  Do I need to clone the mac address of the old router to the new one?

    tns wrote:
    I don't think any of these Actiontec's were ever legally sold.  I.e. they are the property of Verizon.
    That's what I suspected.  The one I was thinking about getting is offered on ebay, not as an auction, but as a "buy it now" item.  They claim it is new and in the original sealed box, and it looks like they have more than one of them.  Probably "fell off a truck", so I'll steer clear of it. 

  • Bridging Actiontec MI424-WR Rev E Router to NETGEAR WGR614 v9 Router

    I would like any information on how to succesfully bridge the MI424-WR Rev E router to the NETGEAR WGR614 V9 ROUTER.
    I would also like it to keep On DEMAND features, as every time I attempt to fix this bridge, I lose all widgets and on demand.
    The reason for my switchover is because the router provided with the verizon fios, is just awful. The signal strength is terrible, and although it is a G class WiFi router, the NETGEAR router which I am switching over to, is also a G CLASS router and can keep FULL SIGNAL throughout the entire house, where as the VERIZON PROVIDED router, loses a bar as soon as I step out of the bedroom door. That is LITERALLY 6 feet away.
    If I can't switch it over succesfully now, the only other option is to switch to cablevision, due to their competitive internet speeds and the fact they supply you with a free N GRADE router.
    Please help, it's an utter pain.
    IT IS CONNECTED VIA COAX to the Verizon BOX downstairs 
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    Thanks MATE!
    Worked a charm ! 

  • Actiontec mi424-wr rev. F jtag header

    iam trying to find out the jtag header pinout for the new mi424 rev F router I have found several post online about older rev but none on the newer rev F.  Below is the info about the rev F board.
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    any help would be great thanks
    Jason

    Smith6612 wrote:
    you can ideally set up the Netgears by disabling all of their routing functions, such as the Firewall, UPnP, DHCP server, etc, and then taking the connection from the Netgear's WAN (Internet) port and instead connecting it up to the LAN port.
    If you are connecting from Actiontec LAN to Netgear WAN, you will need the routing functions including DHCP server enabled in the Netgear.
    @OP  - If you want your devices to be on a single network, I do not recommend the Actiontec-LAN to Netgear WAN configuration.
    Follow the instructions here to setup the first Netgear.
    Can I use my wireless or an extra router along with the Verizon provided router?
    Rinse and repeat for the second router, using 192.168.1.3 for it's IP address.

  • Connect Apple Airport Extreme or Time Capsule to Actiontec MI424-WR Rev. E

    I have a Mac mini & a Macbook Pro. I want to bridge the Apple router with the FIOS router. I read in another forum that if the two routers are bridged then I won't be able to use the TV or phone. Needless to say, I don't want that to happen. I want to be able to bridge the two routers and still be able to watch TV & use the phone.
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    Please explain in layman's terms & step-by-step.

    Can I use my wireless or an extra router along with the Verizon provided router

  • Actiontec MI424-WR web interface not responding properly

    The web interface of my Actiontec MI424-WR rev c router, with firmware v 4.0.16.1.56.0.10.12.3, is not responding properly when I try to access it to configure the router or read the logs.  It sometimes takes a very long time to respond, and my browser will say that "the connection to the server was reset".   Has anyone else had this problem?
    ps
    I neglected to mention, it just started doing this recently, probably within the last two weeks or so, it was fine before.

    annonymous009 wrote:
    The web interface of my Actiontec MI424-WR rev c router, with firmware v 4.0.16.1.56.0.10.12.3, is not responding properly when I try to access it to configure the router or read the logs.  It sometimes takes a very long time to respond, and my browser will say that "the connection to the server was reset".   Has anyone else had this problem?
    ps
    I neglected to mention, it just started doing this recently, probably within the last two weeks or so, it was fine before.
    Connecting to it it wirelessly or via cat5?
    If wirelessly does the same occur if you connect hard wired.?
    Any other routers on your LAN?
    Any new wireless devices, phones etc, added recently?

  • Actiontec Rev E and Bridging

    I can fully understand the reasons why Verizon does not support bridging but considering the type of hardware they use for the router they should at least document the process if someone wishes to do so. I have been attempting to bridge my Actiontec Rev E router and while I can see the router get an IP from my router, my DLINK 855 has not gotten an IP from the ONT.
    I have been reading the messages from the dslreports forum but have been unsuccessful. In addition, all of them deal with using the Rev D version of this router and in fact, they state the REV E router may not even work properly in this configuration.
    Is there anyone out there that can tell me how to bridge the Actiontec Rev E and have all devices get IPs from my router while my router gets the WAN IP from the ONT using this revision of the router.
    Thanks

    Did you try the ActionTec manufacturer's website?  They have a nice user's guide, .pdf.
    cjacobs001

  • Basic Questions on ActionTec MI424-WR Router - problems with poor download/upload speed

    First, I will get to the point and ask my questions, then will explain what's happening - I'm interested in hearing whether the right actions are being taken to solve my problem.
    1) After perusing the forums, I see frequent reference to the "Rev" version of the ActionTec MI424-WR Router.  How do you find the Rev version?  I have logged into the Router and in the "System Monitoring" icon, the Router Status lists my Hardware version as 'A'.  Does this mean I have Rev 'A'?
    2) What is Verizon handing out these days for Routers?  Mine is being replaced, and I am wondering what to expect.  I have Verizon FIOS Phone, TV, and Internet service, and have the 25/25 Internet service.  Will they give me another MI424-WR?  If so, what Rev level are they likely to give me?
    Here's why my router is being replaced - opinions/comments/advice welcomed.
    For the past year or two, I've consistently measured (via speedtest.speakeasy.net) about 30Mbs download, and around 22-25 Upload.  Lately, I noticed that my downloads were quite slow, so I tested my speed at the above website, which I had not done in many months.  I measured only about 2-3 Download and 1-2 up.  Note all of what I am discussing hear takes place with hard-wired ethernet, NOT wireless.
    I tried testing from multiple computers, running XP, Vista, and Windows 7.  All getting consistently similar poor speeds.  I verified my account still is supposed to have 25/25/ service, which I verified online. 
    Tried rebooting the router, no change.  Then tried hard reset (pushing in the recessed button, holding it for about 20-30 seconds.  After it reconnected to the Internet, I tested speed again.  No change.
    Interestingly, I tested wireless speed on the laptop I have.  Speed is MUCH better, around 15 down, and 10-12 up.
    I tried the speed optimization tool on two of my PCs, it made no improvement.  Finally, got into an online chat with a Verizon Tech.  He did some tests on the line, we repeated some of the things I already tried, and then he asked how old my Router was...I am pretty sure it is the original one I received when I first signed up for FIOS, around 5-6 years ago, which is one of the reasons I asked how to tell which rev level I had.   So the tech concluded the problem was probably my Router.
    I TEND to agree, especially because I recently had an "anomaly" on my network.  My son complained one day that Internet was down.  When I got home, I found out my NetGear Gigbit switch was dead, and two of my hard-wired ethernet network printers could no longer talk to the network.  I replaced the switch, so now I am thinking perhaps the Router was damaged somehow.  I have no idea what the cause of this anomaly was - everything that connects to my network was plugged into Triplite ISOBAR surge protectors, but that only protects AC power. 
    I would think a hardware failure would completely kill the ethernet portion of the router, not simply reduce speed, but I could be wrong.  Anyone been through something similar to this before?  I expect to receive the new Router next Thursday, so hopefully I should know by then, but still - what should the next steps be if the new router does not fix the problem?
    Thanks for any comments, insight or shared experiences you might be willing to share...
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    This is embarrassing.
    Smith6612, you are absolutely correct, and you nailed it!
    When all this mess started, I checked my Verizon account to make sure I was signed up for 25/25 Internet.  I was.
    I don't know what has happened, but after reading Smith6612's response, I went back to recheck my account.  I was set up for 15/5!  So, the speedtest measurements I have been getting the last couple of days are exactly what I should be getting.  Two possibilities:
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    2) The Verizon tech may have changed my account profile when I worked with them online last week, although this was never discussed.
    At any rate, Smith6612 wins the prize.  It certainly explains the download/upload speeds I am getting.  I have logged into Verizon and signed up for a new bundle.  According to their website, my new profile should take effect Tuesday 1/10, so after that point, I should be measuring 25/25 again.
    Thanks to all who responded to this thread.  I will update this thread to confirm after Tuesday.  I get nervous whenever I have to change anything with Verizon - although everything has worked fine for the past few years, we have so many services with them - Cell Phone, TV, Internet, and Home Phone, that I worry something will go wrong with the billing, but we'll see.

  • What's the newest revision of Actiontec MI424?

    What's the newest revision of Actiontec MI424? I'm receiving a replacement router for my Rev. F and want to find out whether I get the newest revision or not.

    NewDaddy wrote:
    walt178 wrote:
    Rev I
    Can I expect performance improvement over Rev. E?
    Maybe, depending on what devices you need to attach wirelessly. I have an Actiontec Rev. D and replaced it with a Rev. I, and the speed was pretty much the same. But the Rev. I came set for WPA2 in B/G/N compatibility mode, I changed that to WPA2 N Performance Mode with AES encryption, and the speed went way up. Of course this change eliminated any B/G wireless connectivity, so I have my old Rev. D connected to one of the LAN ports on the Rev. I and use that for an old laptop that does not have an N adapter:
    Rev. I is on the bottom, Rev. D top.
    If you have only N devices you should be able to get a significant speed increase by making the changes I mentioned above.
    Justin
    FiOS TV, 25/25 Internet, and Digital Voice user
    QIP7232, QIP7100-P2, IMG 1.9.4
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  • Partition Map Schemes: HFS+ and FAT32 partitions with OSX and Windows

    OK so I know this question has been practically beaten to death, but I keep finding conflicting information. I am using a 2011 MacBook Pro, on which I will set up Windows through Boot Camp. I recently purchased a 750 GB WD external hard drive to use with time machine for a backup on my Mac. However, I also need to be able to use part of this for Windows files. SO.. I intend to use the HFS+ partition for the the Mac (500GB) and create a FAT 32 partition (250GB) to use for backing up windows files (using it for solely computer modeling and need to be able to transfer/share files with Mac users who use Parallels as well as copying to PC desktops). My question is what to use as the partition map scheme. I have heard that when using these two partition types, a Master Boot Record is needed (so Windows can recognize the FAT32 partition) and also that a GUID partition map is required for use with time machine, meaning windows would no longer be able to read the FAT32 partition. Is there a way to reconcile this? Either using Time Machine with HFS+ partition that is set to MBR or uisng FAT32 on Windows with a GUID partition map? Also if I were to use Parallels (with a GUID setup) instead of Boot Camp, could that be the way to save the windows files to the FAT32 Partition and avoid problems with Time Machine not working with MBR? Thanks for any expertise, as I have heard that both setups that I have mentioned both will work and both will not work. Any experience with a similar situation?

    Wow. Thanks for the extremely quick responses. Just for a few points of clarification.. I'm a complete newb at backing up strategies.
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  • Mi424 wr rev I keeps disconnecting slingbox 350 after 48-55 hrs

    mi424 wr rev I keeps disconnecting slingbox 350 after 48-55 hrs. If I unplug the ethernet cable from the LAN port on the router it will work again only temporarily. I can't access the slingbox from outside the LAN. I just says "connecting" and is being blocked by the router.yet it is working for a few days before disconnecting. Help?

    ddvoro wrote:
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    Because its PSEUDO static.  Actual static requires purchase of static addresses from your provider (i.e. Verizon) and is usually only used by businesses.

  • I want to sell my rev I and return to rev E

    I want to sell my rev I actiontec router so can I sell it or when the rev e breaks down or something will they give me a rev I and expect me to provide a rev I or will they give me a rev e just making sure before I sell it. The reason I want to sell it is because the rev I can't charge my iphone so its useless. I want to use the actiontec to charge my iphone so I wanna return to my rev E and sell my rev I.

    You'll get mainly what Verizon has in stock. All older router revisions from Rev. E to Rev. A should be out of stock and rotation now. Basically, the GEN1 and GEN2 router. GEN3 routers such as the Rev. F, G (Business), and I ActionTecs are what you'll get. In my area, Verizon has been sending out Rev. I routers to breakfix routers such as the Rev. F regardless of the plan.
    ========
    The first to bring me 1Gbps Fiber for $30/m wins!

  • [SBS 2011] USB drive 3 TB and Windows Boot

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  • What do 802.1 p priority settings in Actiontec MI424-WR do?

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  • Problem with Sessions and window.open

    Hi,
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