Actiontec Router Conectivity Issues (Wireless, Wired, PS3, Wii)

So I have an Actiontec Router Rev E and I'm running into quite a few problems.
Here's the Enviroment:
I live in an APT 1st floor (4 Floors in building) There's about 10+ Wireless Networks that scan in my APT
I have mine set to Channel 1 since the strongest signals have chanel 6 & 11 (Help a little)
So i decided to purchase an Access Point Wireless N to attach to my Router/Modem to solve my wireless issues.
Here's where the problems start.
On my PS3, laptop & router I can't connect on Full Duplex 100 MBPS to take full advanatage of simultanius upstream & downstream I have to set it on half duplex. Causing my wired conections to not take full advantage of the speed.
Doing a speed test I'm def. getting my 35/35 as far as verizon speed test go. But My home network can't take advanatage of this.
So if i plug my wireless router my connections barely get 15 MBPS on download & upload. Samething applies wired connections.
So my question comes down to...do i have a faulty router or am i running the wrong cables.
Any help or suggestions I will greattly apreciated it....as I am literally ready to dump this router out the window and lose my TV Guide, On Demand, and Widgets just to plug a regular router in.

On the duplex issue, the first thing is, both devices must be set to auto/auto or 100/Full. This change must be the same on both connecting devices. You can confirm what the Actiontec router is set to and seeing by logging into router and choose advanced. Then choose Port configuration. Here you will see what each port is configured at and when auto it will report back the speed/duplex of each device configured. I have three devices connected and all are reporting 100 Full.
When you plug the Wireless N router in, do any of your wired devices connect to the new N router too? Make sure any device that is connected to the N router is NOT connected to the wired router.
Report back results of these two and we can take it from there.

Similar Messages

New imac 27(Intel based,bought 2013) slow wifi connection with my Verizon fios actiontec router. All other wireless devices in the house(ipad 3gen,MacBook Air ,hp laptop) have a much faster connection. Should I change router settings to G only,etc

New imac 27(Intel based,bought 2013) slow wifi connection with my Verizon fios actiontec router. All other wireless devices in the house(ipad 3gen,MacBook Air ,hp laptop) have a much faster connection. Should I change router settings to G only,switch channel from auto to maybe 6,channel width to 20mhz? Already changed security settings to WPA2. Currently router is running in mixed b and g mode.

If you have one computer running on G they will all run on G. All ROUTERS are backward compatible, in otherwords if you have a group of computers and all of them are N compatible and one or two are G They will all work but the N computers will run at N and those that are G will run at G speed not N.
It can get confusing but really it is simple. The newest is 802.11 AC and ic used with the newest Mac Computers made available in November 2013. So if you have the newest Airport Extreme that is 802.11ac and the newest computers that are AC compliant your speed will be 5 times faster than anything on the market right now.

Add Wireless N Router To Network With An Actiontec Router

Hi everyone, I know this wireless N thing is being beaten to death but I just really need to be pointed in the right direction. I recently built a HTPC setup with a SiliconDust HD Homerun network tuner so I could share three tuners with computers on my network. I've got two PCs wired to the network right now which share them fine. But the problem I'm running into is when I try to set up my laptop to watch something wirelessly, usually a game in HD. The signal is very weak and I constantly lose the tuners because of that, not to mention the picture is very choppy. I saw on a Microsoft Windows Media Center site that they don't recommend streaming HD TV feeds over anything other than a wireless N connection. I currently have the standard Actiontec router that came with FiOS, and it doesn't the N band. Now, that router accesses the internet signal through a coax so I know I can't get rid of it, but I've seen mentioned in a couple of places that you can just add a wireless N router into the network and turn off the wireless on the Actiontec router. This is the router I was thinking of getting:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Cisco+Linksys+-+E1200+Wireless-N+Router+with+4-Port+Ethernet+Switch/2225...
My current network setup is like this: Actiontec router upstairs which carries internet to -> a gigabit switch connected to -> computer, tuners, and printer upstairs, with a line run to -> another gigabit switch downstairs which connects to -> a computer, and an XBox.
So a couple of questions about this:
- Where would this go on the network? Would it go after the router and before the switches, like I run the internet into the new router then out to the switch, or can I just add it to one of the switches?
- Will I need to do any sort of port forwarding or anything, or assiging of IP addresses?
- Anything else I should know or might run into?
I love my FiOS service so hopefully this will help me get even more out of it!
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I wanted to upgrade to an N protocol wireless router but since Verizon doesn’t offer the option, I purchased a Netgear N600. Unfortunately, after it arrived, I discovered that it didn’t have a coax connection as did the Verizon Actiontec. I then set out to find out how to daisy chain the routers to leave the Actiontec connected to the coax and connect the two routers via Ethernet cable. To my good fortune, during the time I spent on the phone with Netgear, I learned my way around their router interface and with the help of a co-worker that actually has a solid understanding of router/network configuration, I finally got everything working correctly – my port forwarding for RDC login worked, I could connect devices to either router and everything could once again see each other (e.g. PC, printer via Ethernet, Blu-ray player for Netflix, receiver for streaming Windows Media Player). Hopefully, this post will help you get up and running quickly and avoid the several hours I spent groping in the dark for the correct configuration.
Login to Verizon Actiontec router (type 192.168.1.1 into browser address bar).
No configuration changes are necessary on the Actiontec, you just need to identify an open IP address range in My Network section (I chose 192.168.1.50). This will be used as your static IP address of the Netgear router LAN settings.
Connect you PC via Ethernet cable directly into an Ethernet port (not WAN/Internet) on the Netgear router. No other connections are needed at this point.
Note: Do not use the Netgear wizard CD to setup the router. It will not take you through the necessary steps as you’re not setting it up as a router.
Login to the Netgear router (type routerlogin.net into the browser address bar) using the default login of “admin” and password “password”. Depending on your firmware version, your interface may vary but hopefully you’ll be able to find the same configuration options in either but perhaps not in the same order or placement. For subsequent logins after the router is active, you may need to type the Netgear IP address (e.g. 192.168.1.50) as routerlogin.net may open a search.
At the top of the Netgear genie, click on the Advanced tab.
On the left side, expand Setup, then select Internet Setup.
Select “Get dynamically from ISP”, under Internet IP Address.
Under Domain Name Server (DNS) Address, select “Use These DNS Servers”, and enter the IP Address of your Actiontec router (e.g. 192.168.1.1) in the Primary DNS” field.
Next go down a few options within Setup to Wireless Setup.
In the Wireless Network 2.4GHz section, click Enable SSID broadcast.
Enter a meaningful name in “Name (SSID)” as this is what will be displayed for your wireless connection.
For Channel, select Auto.
For Mode, select “Up to 300 Mbps”.
Security Options, recommend WPK2-PSK[AES] for longer/stronger password options.
Set the password of your choice.
Repeat the same process for Wireless Network 5GHz, except vary the name slightly so you’ll be able to distinguish which band you’ll connect to. You can optionally use the same or different password as your 2.4GHz. The only exception is you’ll have to select a Channel of your choice.
Next go down a couple more options within Setup to the LAN Setup.
In the LAN TCP/IP Setup section, enter the IP Address you chose in step 2 (e.g. 192.168.1.50).
Enter the IP Subnet Mask 255.255.255.0
Leave the block for “Use Router as DHCP Server” blank as your IP assignment will be handled by your Actiontec router.
You’re now finished with the configuration and you can connect the Actiontec router to the Netgear router using an Ethernet cable using the LAN ports (Note: do not connect the two routers using the WAN/Internet ports on either). You may connect your devices (PC, printers, A/V devices, etc.) to either router. If you have devices that are gigabit capable, you’ll want to connect them to the Netgear router to take advantage of the higher speed.
To avoid any possible interference between the 2.4GHz range of the two routers, you can optionally turn off the Actiontec wireless capability by logging into the Actiontec router admin (described above), go to the My Router tab, and there should be an option for “Change Wireless Settings” in the Quick Links section. Option 1 allows you to turn On/Off the wireless portion of the router.

I have a WRT54G wireless router. The issue I have is th...

I have a WRT54G wireless router.
The issue I have is that the "wireless network connection" icon light on my laptop stays on continuously and is constantly sending and receiving data even when nothing is open...no Outlook, no browser, no programs.
I have another another desktop PC that is connected thru the same wireless router and the icon light only lights when I open a browser or transmit and receive data thru an action of mine.
With my laptop, as soon as I boot it up, the icon light comes on and stays on with all this data sending and receiving.
Does anyone have any ideas?

You can try to see what connections are active when your laptop is connected. If you're using Windows, bring up command prompt, type "netsat" and see what connections are active to what target(s). Check Task Manager and see what applications or processes are active and using the cpu. Maybe try installing a third-party firewall (ZoneAlarm) that monitors inbound and outbound connections to determine if any rogue applications are running.
"Everybody save your work.......NOW!!"

How can I get my Cisco wireless router to wirelessly connect to my Verizon Fios Actiontec router?

I have Verizon Fios for internet, tv and phone. The Verizon Actiontec router is connected with a ethernet cable into my desktop and the internet is up and running. Now I bought a Cisco Linksys WRT54GL Wireless-G Broadband Router, and I wanted to connect it to another desktop two floors up. I set up the Cisco router according to the instructions, but I'm not able to connect to the internet. It shows that my computer was able to get a Local Network connection, but internet connection keeps failing.... I tried changing the IP address. But I'm confused about the whole thing. Is the Default gateway number suppose to be the same for both routers? Is it possible that the Actiontec router isnt giving off a strong enough wireless signal? I'm open for suggestions! Thanks

Mac or Windows machine?
Is the WRT connected directly to the upstairs computer? I don't think you can use the WRT that way?
Have you had a look here?:http://homecommunity.cisco.com/t5/Wireless-Routers/General-Linksys-Router-FAQs/td-p/4286
I THINK you would have to have a WETxx (Ethernet Adapter) instead?
If it connects to the Internet even breifly then I suppose that means your connected but it may be losing the signal and failng. You would porbably have ot get a WAP(Access Point) and use it as a repeater.
I'm a bit rusty on the names so I hope i got them right, hope it helps.....

Firefox opens websites when hard wired to router, but when using wireless I get a server not found message.

Firefox (3.6.10) opens websites when hard wired to router, but when using wireless I get message: SERVER NOT FOUND FIREFOX CAN'T FIND THE SERVER AT SEARCH.AVG.COM. My homepage is http://www.google.com/firefox?client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official. My anti-virus is AVG free 8.5.448. What can cause this?
If Work Offline is checked in Firefox File, I can get to Google search site. When I un-check it I still get the Server Not Found message

Did you check the connection settings?
*Tools > Options > Advanced > Network : Connection > Settings
*https://support.mozilla.org/kb/Options+window+-+Advanced+panel
If you do not need to use a proxy to connect to internet then try to select "No Proxy" if "Use the system proxy settings" or one of the others do not work properly.
See "Firefox connection settings":
*https://support.mozilla.org/kb/Firefox+cannot+load+websites+but+other+programs+can

Mac Address Filtering Issue with DI-624 router and HP D110 Wireless Printer

Just got the D110 Wireless Printer and cannot connect to the wireless router.
I have a D-Link DI-624 Air Plus Xtreme G 2.4GHz Wireless Router.
The error message that I'm recieving from the printer is that "Mac address filtering may be enabled on your wireless router. This can prevent your HP printer from connecting to your wireless network during setup....etc."
The D-Link is setup using WPA-PSK security. If I turn off all security than the wireless printer is able to connect. With WPA-PSK or even WEP enabled I cannot connect the printer to the wireless router. There is no connection to hardwire the printer and the router.
I've logged on to the router's admin and have confirmed several times that Mac filtering is turned off by going to Advanced > Filters > Mac Filters > and choosing Disabled Mac Filters. Where else is this setting? Why is the printer not able to connect?
Further, I check the logs on the router and it shows "Wireless PC Connected" and "Authentication Success" with a note that has the Mac Hardware Address matching the printer's mac hardware address on the Wireless Network Test Report. It would appear that the router is letting the Print in but that the printer is not able to communicate for some reason. It even shows under status > wireless that the printer is connected.
When i spoke to HP, they said to contact the router company and that they could not help. When I called D-Link they said tech support is no longer available for the model. I'm stuck, can anybody help?
This question was solved.
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Windows XP, tried both the front of the printer as well as connecting via USB and using the software.
After a few hours on the phone with both D-Link and HP, the issue has been resolved.
Apparently eventhough Mac Filtering was disabled (set to Disabled MAC Filters), the Mac address had to be entered into the router to allow it while keeping the setting to Disabled Mac Filters. To me it appeared counter intuitive to enter the Mac address while it's set to Disabled Mac Filters so I did not try that before getting on the phone with HP. Further on this, the problem did not go away right after adding the mac address but rather after restarting the router as the mac address addition did not take effect without a reboot of the device.
HP was much more helpful than D-Link on this one though it would be nice for HP to add to their instructions and Wireless Network Test Report to add the Mac address just in case. I would have tried that step if it was stated that it's okay to add the mac address and keep mac filters disabled.

FIOS/VPNs/Actiontec Router issues

I have been with Verizon for over a year now and am still no nearer finding a solution to my VPN issues. I connect to a VPN in the UK for work (in Media) and have major issues streaming video, downloading big files etc etc. From my research on the web I have narrowed the issue down to the following 1- Coax vs Ethernet - I understand COAX is unable to handle certain streaming scenarios, so I have had Cat5 installed running directly to my Actiontec router. This still has not solved the issue 2- Actiontec Router- apparently the router is unable to handle large packets of data and falls over, or in other words, it has ome inherent issues. I have read posts regarding bridging the router with another brand, but as you are still using the Actiontec surely the issues will still be present. Data still has to pass from the ONT into the Actiontec, then to the other router. In my mind as you still have the Actiontec in the loop the issues should still remain. 3- Speed / Quality - using standard Verizon im getting 25/25 no problem. Using VPN i'm lucky to get 2/1, plus a very poor quality and high packet data loss. Due to the above I am at a loss what to do next. My thoughts are.......................... Can I just run the ethernet cable directly into a new Router? Tried running it directly to my laptop but I am unable to connect to the internet. I take it the Actiontec also acts as a modem (great!). I would just use the Actiontec for VOD facets Are there any Quality of Service adjusts I can make to the Actiontec router to improve things? Will adding a second router and connecting a LAN output solve my issues as i'm still relying on the Actiontec? Any help would be great rgds Marc

Just a thought, why not hook it up in the reverse fashion.
Run from ONT to personal router. Daisy chain the Verizon router behind the personal router for the STB's and have all other devices connect to the personal router. All Verizon TV features will still work this way and take the Verizon router out of the internet loop.
Or try and find a Motorola NIM 100 and take the Verizon router out of the loop all together. With the NIM you can hook up ANY router to the ethernet and then connect the NIM to one of the ports. Then connect your coax to the NIM. Bingo, all TV services are fully functional (except possibly the on screen Caller ID and Remote DVR access) But otherwise the guide, widget, and VOD services all continue to work and you dont have to worry about any of the Verizon equipment at all. I personally have mine set up this way. I have a Dlink Gaming router with a Motorola NIM behind it and it works fine. I've not tried the remote DVR access as I've never need it and I dont have Verizon phone so I dont get the caller ID, so I cant check them. But all other Video services work perfectly with this set up and I dont have to deal with any of the Verizon software.
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Error exists between keyboard and chair.

WiFi problems after changing from WEP to WPA on Actiontec router

I need some help/advice--I've searched the forums but am not seeing my exact problem described so decided to describe it to see if the community can help me figure out what to do now. The situation is this: After recently learning about the insecurity of WEP "security" I decided to change the security settings on our Fios router (an Actiontec MI424WR, Rev C). I first tried to change the settings to WPA2, but then my husband's elderly Dell laptop could not connect, so I changed them to WPA. At first everything seemed fine--we could connect to the internet from our computers (my MacBook Pro, his Dell, and various devices--phones, kindle, iPad).
But we soon noticed some strange problems that I was never able to resolve:
I could never get either of two Airport Expresses to connect to the network, even after repeated tries (with hard resets in between)
Within an hour or two after rebooting the router, I was no longer able to connect wirelessly to a NAS device that is connected to the router via an ethernet cable--I could no longer even see it in the Mac finder. I could see it in Windows Explorer from the Dell but could not connect.
Similarly, I lost contact with a Sonos bridge unit that is also connected to the router via an ethernet cable. In this case the loss of contact was sporadic--various devices that connect over WiFi to the bridge could sometimes see it, sometimes not.
Resetting the router would temporarily restore wireless access to the devices hardwired to the router, but I would always lose the NAS device completely after an hour or two and the Sonos bridge sporadically. The computers and devices, however, had no problems connecting to the router itself and from there to the internet.
I finally gave up and returned the security to WEP, and now everything is fine: the Airport Expresses connect, the NAS remains available, and the connection to the Sonos bridge over WiFi is robust (the Sonosnet mesh, if anyone is wondering, was never affected).
I can't understand why switching to WPA caused such problems, but it clearly did, since switching back to WEP eliminated them completely. The simplest explanation is that there is some problem with the wifi portion of the rev C router that only becomes apparent in certain circumstances, though it seems weird that both wired peripherals and wireless airport expresses were affected.
Whatever the causes of the problem, now I'm back to wondering how to improve the security of my network. Should I:
See if I can convince Verizon to replace the modem with a newer version? We have had this one for more than 4 years, since we first got fios.
Just go ahead and purchase the most recent version of the Actiontec router (rev G)? It's only about $115--worth it to me if I can use WPA with it.
Buy our own wireless router, perhaps an Airport Extreme, and turn off the wireless on the Actiontec.
Thanks in advance for any help. This is driving me crazy, and I really don't like feeling as if the network is vulnerable, especially given how extensively we use it.
Becky

This doesn't sound too uncommon. I had similar issues in the past with some networks I've worked with that were resolved by moving the router actually to WPA2 or by updating the firmware. The ActionTec MI424WR Rev. F, G, and I require the use of WPA2 since they have Wireless N radios in them so WPA wouldn't be of much use. My old Linksys WRT54GX also had similar issues, but that was a result of the Wireless Radio dying along with a mix of newer hardware not playing nice with the old, no-longer-supported firmware. I retired that router, only to bring it back into service as a Wired router at a friend's home (shutting off Wireless and setting up another as an AP) which replaced an old BEFSX41 which didn't have enough power to handle his Cable connection.
Besides a few software bugs at play somewhere, there isn't much that could cause the wireless to slowly stop working like that. I would suggest moving back to WPA2. For the older Dell laptop if it's running Windows XP, make sure at least Service Pack 3 is installed if it hasn't been getting updated. Also, check for updated drivers for the Wireless card since they may be needed as well. A bit of searching on the Wireless card should also indicate whether or not it supports WPA2 encryption. Anything from the mid-2000s should support it.
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The first to bring me 1Gbps Fiber for $30/m wins!

Can I use Netgear powerline range extender with Actiontec router M1424WR-D?

We have been using FIOS internet happily with an Actiontec router (M1424WR-D) since 2008, but we have a 'dead zone' in a remote part of our home. I am attempting to install a Netgear Powerline AV 200 Wireless N-Extender kit in the dead zone room, but have not been successful. If I give a unique SSID to the extender, and do not set any encryption, I am able to have wireless connection in the room, but having unprotected wireless connection is unacceptable to me. If I use the same SSID for extender and Actiontec router, and use the same encryption key for the extender as is used on the Actiontec router, then I no longer have wireless connection in the room. I hope someone can provide some help in understanding what it is I'm doing wrong in setting up this powerline extender. Should the extender have the same SSID and encryption key? Should it be a different one? Thanks for any help.
Solved!
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Great news! At last I finally have been able to get a Netgear Powerline AV200 Wireless-N Extender Kit to provide wifi in the 'dead zone' in our house, and I was able to secure the network with an encryption key which I set up wirelessly, instead of relying on the 'wired' security option offered by the kit (a push-button on the side of the extender box). None of the phone techs at Netgear were able to figure out why we could not get the kit to work properly to begin with, and I finally gave up on the phone techs.
For anyone interested in using this product and who needs to set it up with a non-Netgear router, or a router that does not have a WPS button on it, please be aware that the resource CD in the box may be out of date. You will need to go to Netgear's website and download the Powerline Utility software for your device directly from the website. You will need to supply your product serial number in order to get the download. It is important to have this up-to-date software. I discovered that the up-to-date software downloaded from Netgear functioned more smoothly and allowed me to set up my encryption effortlessly. After forcing a factory reset on the extender and removing the device IP addresses associated with the initial unsuccessful attempt to create a secure network, I was able to set up the extender and secure it with absolutely no problem. The up-to-date software seemed to be the critical factor. The product seems to be working really well now and so far we are happy with it.
A word of caution when dealing with Netgear's phone techs. On some occasions when I phoned into Netgear my case was farmed out to a company called i-Yogi. I had a disturbing experience with one of the techs at i-Yogi. One of the i-Yogi techs said he could help me to set up encryption on my network using the AV200 extender, but that he needed first to gain remote access to my laptop. He also wanted access to another laptop in our house in addition to the one I was working from. This seemed odd and I refused to allow access to the second laptop. After gaining remote access he noted that I was using Norton 360 and he claimed that it was not working with my XP operating system and attempted to sell me a copy of McAfee security software at a reduced rate. He became very pushy about this. I refused to engage in this purchase and insisted that he return to the task of troubleshooting my encryption issue. At this point he still had not once attended to the configuration of the extender settings at all, but even so he refused to assist me, saying that it was not his problem that my network was not secured. It was not a good experience, and I believe he had a totally different agenda than dealing with my technical issue.

Linksys WVC11B wireles cam & Actiontec router

I have a Linksys WVC11B wireless webcam that's been a lot of fun to use to monitor my dog when I'm not home. It was working fine when I had Comcast and a Linksys cable modem/router combo. I switched to FiOS this week and am having some trouble getting this webcam to work wirelessly with the Actiontec FiOS modem/router.
I have a hunch, so let me share it.
The webcam has an ethernet port and is designed to let you first connect to the router via ethernet so you can get into the webcam's settings and enter the correct fields for wireless networking: SSID, WEP key, static IP address (or dynamic if you want), etc.
This wired configuration part works fine for me. But, when I disconnect the ethernet cable and power cycle the camera, I can't see it on my local network wirelessly. I've selected 192.168.1.9 as the camera's static IP, and that works fine via ethernet, but nada on wireless.
My hunch is that this is related to the router and its "device expiration rules". When I try to go wireless, I see on the router's main page, the Webcam listed as an "ethernet" device that is "inactive." My hunch is that because I had previously used this webcam via ethernet, the router is not allowing a change to wireless for that device. Maybe if I could accelerate the expiration of this inactive device within the router's settings, I would be ok. Can someone please share how? Is it as simple as power cycling the Actiontec router?
Two other alternatvies I thought of today and will try when I have time (I have a 2-year old, so I need time without her in the house) are: Just before powering down the webcam and disconnecting the ethernet cable for the first time, I should change in the webcam's settings its name and its static IP. Maybe this will "fool" the router into thinking this is a new device, so it won't get "confused" with this device which was formerly ethernet, and is now wireless.
#2, I still have my Linksys router, so I can use it to configure my webcam for the FiOS router's settings. Then, when I'm ready to go wireless with the FiOS system, it will "see" the camera for the first time as a wireless device, so this should avoid the confusion issue above.
Many thanks in advance for advice.
(Hopefully going the next step to port forwarding will be easier)
Solved!
Go to Solution.

If you set your camera to obtain an an IP address automatically it will show up in the device list in the router. Sometimes ARP will cause the device to register the static address with the Actiontec but not always. If the Actiontec issues the address it will always show. This makes port forwarding easier.
In the Actiontec under the advanced section. IP address distribution. Connection list will allow you to set an IP address to be assigned based on the device's MAC address. This will make the camera always get the same address even if it connects wirelessly with the SSID and key to make the connection. Doing it this way will reserve the address in DHCP and prevent any conflicts with the address range of the routers DHCP server.
Some people like a static address in the device, but I have found this also works well. A fixed lease in DHCP lets the router manage the address. This may work better with wireless. I am sure there are diferent opinions on this. I have all my wireless devices set this way in my routers DHCP.
Just in case you lost the manual. You will need to select the revision number, but it shows only 1.0, and the Page does not like Fire Fox. I had to use IE to pull up the PDF. Unfriendly scripting.
http://www.linksysbycisco.com/EU/en/support/WVC11B

PSP, router, and modem issues with Remote Play

Background:
Verizon DSL
Westell 6100 modem
WRK54G router
PS3
PSP
I haven't seen a post on this topic yet, so I'll explain the issue. The Playstation 3 is networkable either through a wired ethernet or wireless connection. The Playstation Portable is also networkable over wifi. The PSP has always worked at hot spots for web surfing and gaming. With the release of the PS3, there was a new feature called Remote Play, which let you connect your PSP to your PS3 and stream the PS3 interface. You can manipulate the options, watch videos and listen to music, just like you are at the controls of the PS3. The PS3 has to be put in "remote play" mode for this to work.
Last week, Sony released an update that made this functionality work over the internet. For most people this worked just fine. Others had to open ports here or there, but there is a group of users that cannot connect from a hot spot, but can connect over the internet at home. The original remote play connection (before the update) was a direct connection between the PS3 and PSP. Now you can connect through your router at home (scan for your router and connect that way). This connection works since the PS3 and PSP are both connected to the same router in your home. When you go to a hotspot, you can get all the way up to the point that the PS3 streamed screen should start, but it times out.
This is taken directly from the PS3 owner's manual:
"If the PS3 system is connected to the Internet via two or more routers, communication may not work correctly."
It seems like internet connection from a hot spot doesn't work because the request for the PS3 gets lost between two routers when it gets to my home network.
Finally to my question. It seems like my Westell 6100 is functioning as a router, as is my WRK54G. When i look at my modem's settings, it is set up as a bridge protocol in routed bridge mode. Everything else I try makes me lose my internet connection.
Anybody know what I'm talking about or have any suggestions?
Thanks

A lot of PS3/PSP owners are having this issue with Remote Play. I have a WRT350N and have been through Sony forum as well as this one to know about all setups from port forwarding to giving your PS3 a static IP and placing in DMZ. I can say I had success connected via or public wi-fi but I also noticed how unstable Remote Play is. There will be times you can connect to it but if you turn your PS3 completely off (not standby) and back on you will pretty much need to setup your PSP again with the PS3 for Remote Play. The problem itself lies more with Sony and not our modem and routers except that fact that you do have to make some minor changes like disable UPnP, forward ports and etc. I own the Sony LocationFree Player which uses a similiar function like Remote Play but instead gives you control over your cable tv remotely anywhere on laptop or psp. LocationFree never failed me since day one because Sony created a DDNS for it which worked for me no matter who my carrier was or what router I have used over the years. Remote Play was introduced later for PS3 which pretty much like LocationFree but Sony doesn't provide a DDNS for it, instead we have to go through all the crazy configurations which is never stable. However you can register for a DDNS at DynDNS.org and configure your router with it which I have done before and found it to be very stable. No matter what Sony still needs to address the issue with the PS3 communication for Remote Play. You can find a lot of info here for setting up DDNS and as for Remote Play your better off going to the Playstation Forums. Good Luck!

Can't load certain web pages. Is it the ActionTec Router?

Most websites load fine, but I've been having a problem accessing some websites, like www.write-bros.com and www.screenplay.com. For some reason, my MacBook Pro can't access those sites, using either Safari, FireFox, or the software that accesses the sites without a browser.
My PC's, and G4 can, however, using the same internet connection and router.
I recently tried an experiment, and I connected my ethernet cable from the wall directly into my MacBook Pro, and it worked! I could access those sites!
I have Verizon Fios, fiber optic connection, so there is no modem to work with. Instead, I have the ActionTec MI424WR router that Verizon provided. I need to use that router because it does other things for the service I have... TV, etc.
The ActionTec is configured fine, nothing blocked, etc. I even completely turned off the firewall and still it wouldn't work.
Another experiment, wireless, was to connect to a neighbor's wireless connection and the websites were viewable that way, too.
I heard that there might be an issue with ActionTec's wireless features, but I am using a Belkin Pre-N Wireless Router as a switch only for wireless and nothing else, and it's connected to the ActionTec (which has it's wireless functions turned off completely).
I have been experimenting with the ethernet connection and the wireless, and I'm out of luck using the MacBook Pro on my own ActionTec router.
Anyone have any ideas? It would be most appreicated to get this fixed.
Thanks.
MacBook Pro 17" Mac OS X (10.4.9)

Those two are essentially the same owners, same place.
www.screenplay.com...
Network IP address lookup:
whois query for 66.226.4.82...
Results returned from whois.arin.net:
Alchemy Communications, Inc. ALCHEMY-NET-3 (NET-66-226-0-0-1)
66.226.0.0 - 66.226.31.255
Write Brothers WRITEBROTHERS (NET-66-226-4-80-1)
66.226.4.80 - 66.226.4.95
# ARIN WHOIS database, last updated 2007-06-04 19:10
# Enter ? for additional hints on searching ARIN's WHOIS database.
Results returned from whois.arin.net:
CustName: Write Brothers
Address: 138 N. Brand Avenue Suite 201
City: Glendale
StateProv: CA
PostalCode: 91203
Country: US
RegDate: 2007-04-24
Updated: 2007-04-24
NetRange: 66.226.4.80 - 66.226.4.95
CIDR: 66.226.4.80/28
NetName: WRITEBROTHERS
NetHandle: NET-66-226-4-80-1
Parent: NET-66-226-0-0-1
www.write-bros.com...
Network IP address lookup:
whois query for 66.226.4.82...
Results returned from whois.arin.net:
Alchemy Communications, Inc. ALCHEMY-NET-3 (NET-66-226-0-0-1)
66.226.0.0 - 66.226.31.255
Write Brothers WRITEBROTHERS (NET-66-226-4-80-1)
66.226.4.80 - 66.226.4.95
# ARIN WHOIS database, last updated 2007-06-04 19:10
# Enter ? for additional hints on searching ARIN's WHOIS database.
Results returned from whois.arin.net:
CustName: Write Brothers
Address: 138 N. Brand Avenue Suite 201
City: Glendale
StateProv: CA
PostalCode: 91203
Country: US
RegDate: 2007-04-24
Updated: 2007-04-24
NetRange: 66.226.4.80 - 66.226.4.95
CIDR: 66.226.4.80/28
NetName: WRITEBROTHERS
NetHandle: NET-66-226-4-80-1
Parent: NET-66-226-0-0-1
NetType: Reassigned
Comment:
RegDate: 2007-04-24
Updated: 2007-04-24
I really think it's something with them, but have you tried tweaking the settings yet on the MBP? Like MTU & such?

WRT610N router and a WET610N wireless bridge problems

I purchased a WRT610N router and a WET610N wireless bridge and have had a major hard time to get them to work together. The router setup went fine. Internet works perfectly on several machines and devices. The bridge on the other hand has been a big issue. I keep getting "Error 105" when the wizard trys to search for the bridge on the network. This search happens 2 or 3 times during the setup, and it has failed repeatedly at each instance. Sometimes it lets me go a bit further, but it's never completed. I called support, and they didn't know much about it, then we got disconnected and the second guy didn't "have the skills to work with that device" and the first guy appearantly didn't update the notes. I exchanged the bridge, but the second has fared no better. I'm now thinking it might be the router. One thing that leads me to that is the connection button never seems to initiate any proceedures on the router. I can hold that thing down for two minuets and the lights never get going. Anyone have any experience with these?

You have to make sure that your router is running it's latest firmware...
Download Firmware 7.27 MB...
Follow these steps to upgrade the firmware on the device : -
Open an Internet Explorer browser page on a computer hard wired to the router...
In the address bar type - 192.168.1.1...Leave the username blank & in password use admin in lower case...
Click on the 'Administration' tab- Then click on the 'Firmware Upgrade' sub tab- Here click on 'Browse' and browse the .bin firmware file and click on "Upgrade"...
Wait for few seconds until it shows that "Upgrade is successful" After the firmware upgrade, click on "Reboot" and you will be returned back to the same page OR it will say "Page cannot be displayed".
Now reset your router :
Press and hold the reset button for 30 seconds...Release the reset button...Unplug the power cable from your router, wait for 30 seconds and re-connect the power cable...Now re-configure your router...
After re-configuring the router you need to configure the Bridge, to configure the Bridge you have to make sure, Wireless Settings on the Bridge and the Router are exactly identical so that they can effectively communicate with each other...Your Bridge should be assigned Static IP Address of 192.168.1.250, Subnet Mask : 255.255.255.0...Default Gateway : 192.168.1.1(Assuming your router is 192.168.1.1)...After setting up your Bridge you should unplug the Router and then the Bridge, wait for a minute and connect the router first, wait for another minute and then connect your Bridge...It should work...

Help with QOS rules while using Actiontec router as a bridge

In my family's house I have a Verizon Actiontec MI424-WR Rev F currently acting as strictly a modem with WiFi turned off. I connected a Netgear N600 from its LAN port to the Actiontec's LAN port and that is acting as my wireless network. I did this because it is a 2-story house and the Netgear offered better WiFi coverage throughout the house than the Actiontec. The Actiontec router has its 192.168.1.1 ip address and the netgear has a 192.168.1.2 ip address and neither one has anything plugged into its WAN port. Everything (laptops, Xbox, cellphones, etc.) was working well until I recently purchased a new home theatre receiver. The receiver has network capability so I purchased a few Netgear Powerline 500 nanos. I have a total of 4 of the "powerline plugins", The first one, the hub, I have plugged directly into the Actiontec router and the other three I'm using for the Xbox, the receiver, and a WDTV live smart box. I got them all working but I've noticed WiFi speeds on the laptops have dropped and the netgear plugin I have alotted for the Xbox is going slower than the other two plugins that really don't require that much internet usage. The main home PC is directly connected to a LAN port on the actiontec router so I turned off the Netgear N600 and ran a speed test with no interference. I got results of 58.99 Download and 39.03 Upload. So what I want to know is if my setup I'm using currently okay or do I need to change some settings on the Actiontec to make it a "true bridge" rather than more of a modem? And if my setup is okay will QOS rules in place (with assigned Static IP's) help to make things more efficient? If that's the case how do I set QOS rules on the actiontec that fit my needs? I appreciate any help anyone can give me!
So to sum up:
1. Actiontec MI424WR Rev F has a router plugged into its LAN port from the LAN port of a....
2. Netgear N600 router which is being used as main router/WiFi. Have a total of...
3. 4 Netgear Powerline 500's throughout the house with the main Hub plugged into a LAN port on the Actiontec.
All have reception but with major efficiency issues. WiFi has also slowed due to this.
Thanks again!

olly230 wrote:
on a similar note.
My brother has BT internet and has the 2 generations of router White hub aned black hub.
He has thick stone walls and would liek to know if he can use his old white hub as well to expand the avaliable ammount of wifi ness
this might help but not if HH2 http://www.jarviser.co.uk/jarviser/hubasdongle.html
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Actiontec Router Conectivit​y Issues (Wireless, Wired, PS3, Wii)

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