Add Exposure Fusion

What is Exposure Fusion?
Exposure Fusion is not a kind of HDR. Exposure Fusion is a fairly new concept that is the process of creating a low dynamic range (LDR) image from a series of bracketed exposures.
In short, Exposure Fusion takes the best bits from each image in the sequence and seamlessly combines them to create a final Fused image. Or more technically, the fusing process assigns weights to the pixels of each image in the sequence according to luminosity, saturation and contrast, then depending on these weights includes or excludes them from the final image. And because Exposure Fusion relies on these qualities, no exif data is required, and indeed, if you wanted to, you could include an image with flash to bring darker areas to life.
Using this process actually has a few advantages over HDR. For one, no intermediate HDR image needs to be created, and therefore no tone mapping step is required either, making Exposure Fusion a far more efficient and quicker process. Not only that, but due to the algorithm used in Exposure Fusion, halos around objects that would otherwise ruin a nice HDR image have been completely eliminated, resulting in a more natural looking final image.
Exposure Fusion also has one other trick up its virtual sleeve. It can also create extended Depth Of Field images by fusing together a sequence of images with different DOFs. This could actually be quite handy, say if lighting conditions at the time dont allow the full DOF to be captured in one shot, or if youre just limited by the DOF of your lens. This process could also be used creatively to get different DOFs in one image.
Copied from: http://digital-photography-school.com/exposure-fusion-what-is-it-how-does-it-compare-to-h dr-how-do-i-do-it

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Add exposure info to ea shot in contact sheet

Is there a way in Bridge to add exposure info., I would like to add focal length, aperture, shutter speed, ISO and lens used, below the image in a contact sheet, in addition to the image name, into a Bridge contact sheet? I see no way to do it now in Bridge. (Using Bridge CS5 and Photoshop CS5; presently using PhotoMechanic 4.6.5 for my contact sheets which does allow custom listing of exif info below images in contact sheets).
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Debra Gillilan

What's odd is that
File > Automation Tools...
is GRAYED OUT,
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Add Exposure Mode Field to EXIF Metadata

Bridge has a field in the EXIF metadata called Exposure Mode. Lightroom does not. Can this field be added in Lightromm? And, if so, how?
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Is there any way to add a fusion drive after purchase?

I'm sure if it is, it's going to cost me, but I'd like to know if there is a way to have apple switch out the regular old hard drive for a Fusion drive?
And if so, how much will it be?
I regret not waiting for my 2012 imac to come in stock (they were in short supply at that time) and when I saw one in the apple store I jumped on the chance to acquire one.
Now I'm wishing I could have a Fusion Drive now.
Any way to go about it?

You would have to talk to a Genius Bar associate at an Apple Store to see if can be done and if they can quite you a price to install it.
You need to backup up all of your data before embarking on this path.

Add equal exposure boost across whole shoot in Lightroom

This is a Lightroom 4 question.
It seems that even with a calibrated screen and across multiple print labs and colour profiles, my prints will always come out about a third stop darker than what looked good on the screen. I attribute this to the screen emitting light vs. the page only reflecting it. My question: is there an efficient way to give an equal exposure boost across an entire shoot? I don't want to sync a specific exposure setting. I want to make virtual copies for print and then add maybe 0.3 exposure to all files, on top of their current setting.
The only way I can think do to it now is to export 16-bit tiffs which will reset the exposure to 0.00 for those files, and then sync them all at +0.3 exposure. This is really inefficient for time and hard drive space.
Am I missing something obvious? Even a preset will only set a specific overall exposure setting. I want a preset that adds exposure to the existing number.
Thanks,
James

James O\'Neill wrote:
Am I missing something obvious? Even a preset will only set a specific overall exposure setting. I want a preset that adds exposure to the existing number.
Quick Develop in Library can adjust images using a "relative" adjustment vs an absolute adjustment of a preset.

Mac Mini Fusion Drive or self built SSD / Fusion drive

Hi,
I am contemplating to buy a Mac Mini i7 2.6GHz but don't really know what I want to do with the Harddrive. One option would of course be to add a Fusion Drive for 200 bucks. However, apple doesn't say anything about the brand or model that they use for the SSD's which is a bit upsetting. Another option would be to go with the basic 1TB hard drive and replace it with a really good SSD (also around 200), or the third option would be to perhaps create your own Fusion Drive by going with the basic 1TB hard drive and simply add a SSD.
Any suggestions, recommendations, potential problems of eacht etc?
Thanks very much in advance

I have used a Fusion drive (120GB Intel SSD + 500GB HDD) which worked really well, handled all the file movement between the SSD and HDD and made a Mini fast. I added the SSD myself using a dual drive kit (with tools) from iFixit.com.
I would go with the idea of purchasing a 3rd party SSD (Samsung, Crucial, OWC), a dual drive kit from either iFixit.com or OWC (Macsales.com) then install it yourself. Both iFixit.com and Macsales.com have excellent guides on how to do this. With OS X Mavericks you'll be able to have the OS create a Fusion drive or you can manage the drives independently.

Re: Essbase Add-in and Excel 2010

I have a user who is getting the following error:
Excel experienced a serious problem with the 'c:\oracle\middleware\epmsystem11r1\products\exceladdin\bin\essexcin.xll" add-in. . . .Do you want to disable this add-in?
Do we need to reinstall the Essbase add-in ?
I have had the user disable other add-ins via 'File > Options > Add-ins > Excel add-ins and that didn't resolve the problem.
Are there any compatibility issues with 64 bit Excel?
Also, after installing Essbase add-in, what are the items that should appear
'File > Options > Add-ins > Excel add-ins
Excel version : 2010
Add-in version Essbase Spreadsheet add-in, Fusion Edition 11.1.2
I would appreciate a quick response.
My email id is < removed by moderator so that you don't get spammed for all Eternity >

Also, after installing Essbase add-in, what are the items that should appear
'File > Options > Add-ins > Excel add-ins
The user has the following items:
Essexcin.
In2Hyp Essbase ribbon.
Oracle Essbase Query Designer Addin.
The items which I have in 'File > Options > Add-ins > Excel add-ins is:
In2Hyp Essbase Ribbon
Oracle Essbase OLAP Server DLL (Non- Unicode)
Oracle Essbase Query Designer Addin.
Could you please kindly help me understand the difference?
Do you recommend reinstalling the Essbase add-in ?
Thank you very much for your help.

Common lib jar configuration for fusion web project

Hi,
I have one common lib jar file which contains webservice proxy client.
I have multiple fusion web projects which contain bounded taskflows. These projects are exposed as ADF lib jars and used in webcenter pages.
Each fusion web projects contains model project and which defines one java class as application module. The application module calls webservice proxy client for supplying data to UI layer.
I am looking for clarification on adding common lib jar to fusion webprojects. Do I need to add common lib jar file for both model and viewcontroller project? Is there any way to add at fusion web application level so that both model and view controller projects can refer the lib jar and also for Webcenter application if I add this taskflow as region to the page.

Hi,
Do I need to add common lib jar file for both model and viewcontroller project?
This really depends on your architecture. If for example the ADF model you reference in the view layer project is from an ADF Library too then the view layer project needs to have all the library references. If the view layer project is in a workspace with a model project and the model project is the client of the service then the common jar files need to go into the model layer.
and also for Webcenter application if I add this taskflow as region to the page.
If you use it in a region then the problem is that ADF libraries don't hold 3rd party JAR references, which means you need to provide the library to the consuming application of the task flow. You can try configuring the JAR file in the EAR file you deploy with your consuming application and see if this is enough. Otherwise you can try a shared WLS library deployment
Frank

Increase video exposure gradually over time

So, i've made a timelapse in which photos is getting from lighter at the begging to darker in the end, because natural light conditions were also changing. I could not alter shutter speed, iso, aperture during the whole process, as it was set on manual. Is it possible to add exposure effect which could change exposure over time gradually foe example from 0 to +5 , to compensate video from getting slowly darker. I hope you get the idea. Or i have to manually change the exposure of source images which ar darker before making timelapse video. Thanks in advance for answering the question.

Add an Adjustment Layer for your compensating effect, then:
Adding, navigating, and setting keyframes - Pr
http://help.adobe.com/en_US/premierepro/cs/using/WS1c9bc5c2e465a58a91cf0b1038518aef7-7e63a .html
Adobe Premiere Pro Help / Adjustment Layers
http://helpx.adobe.com/premiere-pro/using/help-tutorials-adjustment-layers.html

2011 imac fusion drive

Can i add a fusion drive to my 21.5inch mid 2011 imac? it has the i5 processor.

Not officially, no. A Fusion drive from Apple is really just software that "bridges" together a mechanical hard drive and an SSD, so there are ways to create your own documented on the web. It won't be supported by Apple, though, so if problems arise, you may have to reformat the drives back to separate volumes. You'll also have to figure out how to squeeze in an SSD in addition to the hard drive your iMac has. For tips see this for starters:
http://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/56867/Adding+a+2nd+Hard+Drive+to+a+iMac+2011
Regards.

Homefusion - Salespeople not trained on data use

I'm on a share everything plan with multiple family members.
We have 3 smart phones, 1 tablet, and 2 dumb phones. and were able to share 8GB data with no issues (it may have been even lower than that)
Recently the owner of the plan was talked into switching from her existing ISP to Verizon's Home Fusion Service, and adding this service to our data pool. (Had I known this was happening, I would have talked her out of it immediately.. or at least explained what this meant)
She is NOT tech savy (and I'm sure many Verizon customers are in this boat), so she asked your salespeople MANY questions about the service, and was excited about getting better/cheaper/more reliable internet, and finally getting rid of her land line.
Instead, your salespeople provided FALSE information, and failed to inform her of approximately how much data this many devices would use (They left the data at less than 10GB for this many devices, and told her that this would be PLENTY). She told the salespeople that she streams netflix. They told her that it would be FINE as long as she only watched them from her laptop. What they failed to tell her is, "10 GB of data isn't really enough to allow you to stream more than 10-15 shows/movies on netflix each MONTH. You could quickly run out of data, so perhaps we should start out with a larger data plan, and then reduce it if we see that you aren't using as much as you had thought). Nor did they tell her that 10GB of data at home isn't really that much (she's not tech savy)
I wasn't aware of the changes to our plan or the impact it would have, until we were in Door County, WI. This area has extremely limited cell phone coverage and zero chain stores (no Verizon stores). We were on day 2 of our vacation when the first data alert was texted. We had used 50% of our data, and we still had another 15 days to go. (In the past, we only received the 50% usage texts when there was 1-2 days left of our billing cycle).
All of the smart phone users on the plan turned off our cellular data and used the hotel's wifi instead. NOBODY WAS AT HOME TO USE THE INTERNET. Day 2: I received the text stating we had used 75% of our data. An hour later it was 90% I tried calling, but didn't have the account password on me. The customer service rep told us we could fix it online. We raced back to the hotel and I used a computer to log onto verizon's website and adjust the data plan before we went over.
I updated our data, and received a confirmation email that we were in the clear. I looked at our data usage online after adding the extra data and we were fine, so I didn't worry about it again. I figured we had fixed the problem before overages had occurred, and we stopped receiving overage messages.
This was last month.
TODAY I find out that we DID indeed end up with overage charges. Apparently we were supposed to somehow BACKDATE this data upgrade, or it didn't count (?!). So although everything I saw on the internet looked good, and when the plan owner called a verizon customer service rep who told her, "those overage messages must have been a mistake, you were nowhere near going over".. when it came time to bill us, we suddenly have an OVERAGE that was not there before. In fact, it wasn't there when I LOOKED a couple of weeks ago when we started getting '50% usage' errors (and logged in to find out that we were fine, and had this fact confirmed by a customer service rep who said that these usage texts were going out in error.. and others had reported them too)
So now we have to pay overage fees, because of misinformation from your sales staff and customer service reps.
Do NOT add Home Fusion to your shared data plan.
Get a CLEAR idea of your existing home internet usage before committing to this service, and get more data than you need until you know what you actually use.
Do NOT listen to their salespeople who try to convince you to get LESS data (hey look at those amazingly high overage fees), and monitor your service closely.
It's actually cheaper to CANCEL this service and pay the early termination fee.
And what exactly does this mean?
"New customers to the service will receive 50% more data allowance for their first 2 full billing cycles. Requires new 2-year activation. Overage is billed at $10 for each additional 1GB. 50% more data not available on Share Everything plan."
<<Text from duplicate thread added>>
Message was edited by: Verizon Moderator
Duplicate thread started - text added to original post

Dealing with overages is not how we want any of our customers to enjoy service with us thkidsall. We certainly do not want to lose you. We want all our customers to know they can check data usage at any time by dialing #data on their phones or via My-Verizon online. Yes, streaming, downloading, uploading, games, and apps can all use data. If the person is constantly streaming, data can be used very quickly. This information is also on our website. I would love to know what misinformation you were given, so we can correct this information. The owner of the account signed and agreed to the new plan. They can definitely wait in the future to have another person from the account to join them when choosing a plan and device so they can pick the correct options for your needs. Plus, the data package we recommend is just an estimate of data and we suggest the plan that may be best but also give you the opportunity to change plans at any time to prevent overages. We also provide great advice to help manage data, for instance using wifi, not streaming all day, and closing apps or programs that may use data. Additionally, your phones all have the opportunity to use wifi when available to prevent data usage. In regards to the changes online, we ensure that customers have a clear understanding of future dating, backdate, and on demand. I'm sorry you made the choice to change your data plan on demand and it incurred overages. Were you provided any help with the plan changes and bill? Please let us know if you have any furhter questions.
Kinquana_VZW
Please follow us on twitter @VZWSupport

5.1 or 7.1 external sound card

I have a new iMac but it only has a 2.1 optical audio output on the back. I'd like to connect a 5.1 DD external sound card USB 2.0 (maybe even up to 7.1 Dolby Digital) to it to connect to my DD receiver. However, I am also using Windows Vista Ultimate through Boot Camp separately and may add VMWare Fusion later on to run both OSX and Vista side by side so I'd want to have both of them compatible and even before that. I've been looking for cards but haven't found any that are supported by both Apple AND PC. Either that or they are all internal PC cards. Does anyone know of any external cards that are supported by both?

Tiery wrote:
My iMac has a combination 1/8" optical/analog output jack on the back of it that
you can use for either connection but I've never heard of such a "combo" jack.
There are two "standard" optical-digital-audio connectors. The original "square"
one is still used in most larger audio/video components. The newer/smaller one,
used mainly in portable gear, is exactly the same size as a mini headphone plug.
The iMac's 'combo' jacks support either analog or digital-optical connections --
depending on which type of plug is inserted.
Radio Shack carries adaptors/cables of both types (usually at outrageously high
prices). For online vendors, try http://monoprice.com Great prices and a good
reputation for quality/service among the HDTV-fanatics on avsforum.com.
Here are just two examples; browse monoprice.com for many more:
[optical mini-plug to toslink adaptor|http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?cid=104&cp_id=10423&cs_id=1042301&pid=2671&seq=1&format=2]
[optical mini-plug to toslink cable|http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?cid=102&cp_id=10229&cs_id=1022902&pid=1557&seq=1&format=2]
I thought the only way I could get DD 5.1 out is through a USB adaptor.
That should work, too -- but I don't believe it's necessary.
Looby

Dark Photo Problem

First off, I am a rank amateur and do not understand tech-speak. I am working on my home computer (Dell Dimension E520) with Windows Vista installed. I have Photoshop Elements 8.0 installed and recently installed Lightroom 3.4.1 for my college student Granddaughter.
Now the problem: all the photos we import into Lightroom show up dark, both individually and in a group. However, they show up normally in Elements Even stranger, when I use Windows Photo Gallery, they show up normal in the gallery more, but when I open an individual image it comes up dark.
Does anyone have an idea as to what I need to do to make Lightroom usable? Please remember that I am very low on the technical understanding curve.

First of all, trust Lightroom over the other programs. Second, look at your histogram and see if it includes information all the way to the right. If not, your image is underexposed. Third look at the presets that are or are not selected when you import. Generally, Autotone does a pretty good job for many situations and can be a good starting point, particularly if your exposures are all over the board. You can select Autotone as a preset to apply when you import. If that doesn't help, then I would suggest that your camera settings are likely the problem. Double check the metering area on your camera and make sure that you are set for a mode that results in a good evaluation for the type of shooting you do. If you are using full auto, you may want to switch to Program and make some adjustments. You may find that you need to program your camera to overexpose by 1/3 or 2/3 of an f stop in order to get a consistently good exposure.
In LR, you can click on the little triangle on the upper right of the histogram to turn on the highlight indicator. If you will add exposure and/or brightness (depending on the phofo and result you are trying to acheive) until the highlight indicator shows that somewhere in the image you have burned out the highlights, and then crank it back a click or two. This should give you a basic good exposure. Other adjustments may be necessary, such as black level, saturation, etc., but you will have a starting point. If you find that this is a fix for many of your images, you can make a preset out of it and apply it either on import or to individual or groups of photos.
If you have a good exposure in-camera, even with no presets LR should show the photo correctly on your screen. I have found over the years that images that "look fine" in photoshop or photoshop elements without having gone through LR first may not actually be bright enough. Your histogram will tell everything. My experience is that LR is THE BEST single photo editing product on the market. If I had to choose between LR and PS, it would be LR. BUT, do your best to get it right in camera first.

Keyboard shortcuts to select develop sliders

For those people who like to minimize their mouse kilometers, it would be useful to have keyboard shortcuts to *select* individual sliders in the develop module. [See also the specific request for an exposure shortcut that recently came up in this thread:
shawnmoore, "What is the Lightroom keyboard shortcut for Exposure?" #, 27 Aug 2007 9:10 pm ]
Keyboard shortcuts for individual sliders would be particularly convenient for people using programmable controllers (i.e. the Contour Design Shuttle). You could assign the shortcut to a programmable key (on button for 'exposure', for example) and then use the shuttle/scroll wheel to adjust the corresponding value.
Now, I realize that Lightroom is quickly running out of available shortcut keys, so I suggest to couple them to the active panel. Currently, ctrl+[number] (on Windows) selects the n-th panel on the panel set on the right hand side, i.e. ctrl+1 -> basic, ctrl+2 -> tone curve. My proposal would be to use ctrl+F[number] to select the n-th slider (or other control) *within* that panel. Then, the up/down arrows could be used to adjust the values.
Any opinions?
Simon

**Update: I will try and re-write this to inject the shift-up/down instead of using mouse movements ** Here's a quick hack to do the same for Windows using www.AutoHotKey.com I would like it if LR would add exposure, fill, black, as nudge shortcuts so that I can reprogram my Logitech G15 to call the same. NOTE: This can go very weird if you computer speed is different to mine. If you find the mouse pointer disappears, close LR, and increase the Sleep 500 below. <WinKey>2 = Black Minus <WinKey>3 = Black Plus <WinKey>4 = Fill Minus <WinKey>5 = Fill Plus <WinKey>6 = Exp Minus <WinKey>7 = Exp Plus ; Code Starts #IfWinActive, Lightroom #2::LRMouseMove( 10, -2) ; Black Clipping, Minus #3::LRMouseMove( 10, 2) ; Black Clipping, Plus #4::LRMouseMove( 40, -5) ; Fill, Minus #5::LRMouseMove( 40, 5) ; Fill, Plus #6::LRMouseMove(115,-10) ; Exposure, Minus #7::LRMouseMove(115, 10) ; Exposure, Plus LRMouseMove(x,dx) { MouseGetPos, xpos, ypos BlockInput, MouseMove ControlGetPos, cx, cy, w, h, AfxWnd80u82 MouseMove, X+CX, CY+50, 1 MouseClickDrag, L, 0, 0, DX, 0, 0, R Sleep 500 MouseMove, XPOS, YPOS, 1 BlockInput, MouseMoveOff Exit } #IfWinActive ; Code Ends

How do I get an image from Picasa and transfer it to photoshop to work on it.?

how do I obtain an image from picasa and bring it to ps to work on it?

Are you using a Windows system, and do you have File Explore set to show extensions? I am wondering if the file name might look like:
'Starbirds Picture.jpg.tiff' ?
The fact that you say the image looks different after reducing its bit depth makes me think you are right about it being 32 bit, but as Chris said, it can't be a JPG.
Your computer monitor is not capable of displaying the full tonal range of a 32bit image produced by an HDR program like Photomatix or Photoshop, so it has to make compromises. You have to chose what process to use to reduce its bit depth to give it the look you are after. I prefer Photomatix for HDR. If you install a trial version and open your 32 bit image in it, you can then chose one of the options to convert it to 16 or 8 bit. These might be Tone Mapping, Exposure Fusion, or Tone Compression. Tone Mapping is the option that produces the typical HDR look.
But you are using Photoshop. I haven't noticed what version you are using, but Google Photoshop (your version) HDR processing, and you'll see how to control the end look of the image.

Add Exposure Fusion

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