Adding Second Display... Do I Need A More Powerful Card?

Hello everybody...
I purchased my powermac for editing purposes and I'm currently working off of a Samsung 24" LCD. I'm now ready to get my second display, which will most likely be a 32" LDC TV (sos I can use it as a TV as well as a display). Anyway, my Mac's rockin the ATI X800 XT (DVI + Apple Display Port). Will my card have enough juice to power these displays simultaneously? I know that the specs claim that the card can handle a 23" and a 30" together, but obvously I will be 3" over that claim...
Any help whatsoever is greatly appreciated
THANKS
Ben
G5 Power Mac Mac OS X (10.4.3) Dual 2.7GHz

the problem that you're going to have is that large lcd tvs just don't look that great up close. they're designed to be viewed from at least 4 times the screen size (unlike your mac display which is almost certainly no more than 1.5 times the size.
we have 2 x 28" and 1 x 32" sharp aquos tvs here and even with a dvi connection the display is really not suitable for viewing up close.
the other thing to consider is that personally i wouldn't like to make edit or colour decisions using an lcd display. you need a well calibrated crt display or better still a broadcast monitor.

Similar Messages

Adding second display

I recently purchased a Viewsonic VX2260wm monitor:
Resolution: 1920 x 1080
This monitor handles Vga, DVI-D, and HDMI inputs.
I will be using the monitors in extended display mode and run FCE alot. What would be the recommended input route I should take?
1. Mini DVI to VGA
2. Mini DVI to DVI-D
3. Mini DVI to DVI-D to HDMI Conv to HDMI (Will This Send Audio To Monitor?)

Ok, I hooked it up and sort of magically it was enabled and it is now showing what my laptop screen is showing. Any tips on configuring? Also this screen is not widescreen and the entire desktop does not fit. Can anything be done about that?
I found that xinerama is being gradually abandoned in favor of XRandR but xrandr reports that it cannot find the second display. The output is the one below either I have the second screen connected or not.
$ xrandr -q
Xlib: extension "Generic Event Extension" missing on display ":0.0".
Screen 0: minimum 320 x 240, current 1280 x 800, maximum 1280 x 800
default connected 1280x800+0+0 0mm x 0mm
1280x800 50.0*
1024x768 51.0
840x525 52.0
800x600 53.0
800x512 54.0
720x450 55.0
700x525 56.0
680x384 57.0 58.0
640x512 59.0
640x480 60.0 61.0
576x432 62.0
512x384 63.0
400x300 64.0
320x240 65.0

Do I need something more powerful to handle my three story home as far as airport express?

Shoud I buy something more powerful. My airport express cant seem to handle my three story home from the basement. I barely get any signal on my first floor and none on my second. When I stream forget about it cuz my feed stumbles and pauses. What the best option before I buy a new one. I already updated my airport express.

In my fairly conventional 2 story home, my cable modem is on the 1st floor near the north end of the house, and my office is on the 2nd story near the south end. I had endless troubles when I first installed just one Airport Extreme and tried to provide service to computers in my office. I tried adding a second AE in the office to extend the original but doing so over wireless was no better than the single router. Since trying to run ethernet throughout the finished house was not an option, I decided to try the home-wiring ethernet route. At the time the Netgear Powerline adapters were available from someone at a reasonable price so I purchased 3 of them, one for each router and one for a server/printer/NAS station centrally located for everyone to use the printer. While these don't give raging speeds (I average around 50mbps) they have worked well and certainly match the speed capabilities of my internet connection. Obvioiusly my 2nd AE is set up in bridge mode extending the first one. Hope this may help.

Adding second display via mini display port

How do I add audio and video using mini display port and USB audio with HDMI connection at Home Theater Receiver from 2009 Mac-mini? DVI and optical audio outputs on Mac-mini used for primary display.

Assuming your receiver has a USB audio input, you would use an Apple Mini DisplayPort to DVI Adapter and then a DVI to HDMI cable for the video and a USB cable for the audio. You would have to go into System Preferences/Sound and under the Output tab you would have to make a selection to direct which port to send audio out of.
As an alternative to the Apple adapter, there are also third-party Mini DisplayPort to HDMI cables that avoid any need for an adapter at all.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?cid=102&cp_id=10246&cs_id=1024603&pid=5995&seq=1&format=2

Do I need a new grapics card?

I have a factory(somewhat) Deminsion 3000 from Dell. The only thing that I have upgraded on it was the memory (512MB to 2gigs) I play a game which I think most people are familiar with, World of Warcraft. Now my question is related to FPS. The computer starts and loads decently, but for all of those who play WoW, hearthing is moderatly fast and so is loading screens, but general moving around is sluggish at best with all setting on LOW (average of 3 FPS while moving and 3 FPS standing still). I was wondering if a new graphics card would help fix this, and if so, what do I look for? I was also wondering if a new graphics card would make my youtube video's run faster while having WoW minimized, and possibly streaming with Xfire?
Thanks,
Zef

Your biggest bottle neck is your processor. Although WoW does use the video card, and a new one would help, it's just not worth it imo. WoW is very processor heavy and that is what will give you the biggest increase in performance.
I don't think the computer has a PCI-Express port, so you'd have to get a PCI video card and you might even need a more powerful power supply....all things that are not worth it.
You'll be MUCH better off getting a new computer and upgrading the PSU and video card on the new one. (Unless its a gaming PC out of the box)
Youtube 'speed' is generally based off of your internet connection, not the video card. As far as streaming, you'll need a new video card and processor before you can play and stream efficiently.
I don't play WoW anymore, but I can tell you how big of a different the processor makes vs. a new video card. I used to get 10-12fps mid fight / Dalaran with an old AMD 5000+ dual core, 5gb of ddr2 and an Nvidia 260gt video card. I picked up the Intel i7-970 6-core, 6gb of ram, and the same Nvidia 260gt... but this time around, my fps didn't drop below 60 no matter what I was doing.
On a side note, I guess that explains how people can be so bad at WoW. Getting 3 FPS while moving must make it hard to play well...
Although I do work for the Geek Squad, all comments and opinions are my own.

Adding a non apple 1080p monitor as second display to 2011 iMac 27"

Looking to add a second display to my new iMac but cant afford another thunderbolt screen. What is the best port and then cable to use to connect a non Apple 1080p slave monitor? I assume DVI or HDMI on the slave monitor side but what port on the iMac side? only choices are USB, Firewire, & Thunderbolt. Advice much appreciated!

Thunderbolt is based on DisplayPort technology and a Mini DisplayPort adapter plugs right into the Thunderbolt port. So depending on your monitors connection, you most likely will need a Mini-DVI to HDMI or Mini-DVI to DVI adapter.
Moshi Mini DP to HDMI Adapter with Audio Support - Apple Store (U.S.)
Mini DisplayPort to DVI Adapter - Apple Store (U.S.)
Also see > Apple - Thunderbolt: Next-generation high-speed I/O technology.

Wireless Projector Needed To Operate As Second Display

Thanks in advance for an explanation or help.
Looking for a wireless projector that will be detected as a second display. I am using an Epson that has wireless features but is not detected as a display. It only gives me the option to send images to the projector using it's built in capability.
Any other brand of projector, add on or way to make the Mac see the wireless projector like a connected second monitor?
Thanks
Message was edited by: Jerry Z.

Thanks, but my questions is a bit more technical than that. Wireless projectors generally allow you to send images, but it appears that they are not generally detected as displays in the System Prefence Pane for monitors.
Looking for a reply with someone who has specific experience with my request.
I am all about Google and have Googled to no avail.

I want a new and more powerful (non-Apple) wireless router but I still want to use my existing Time Capsule to continue with my Time Machine backups and I still need the Time Capsule's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features and capabilities

THE SHORTER STORY
My goal is to successfully use my existing Time Capsule (TC) with a new and more powerful wireless router. I need a new and more powerful wireless router in order to reach a distant Denon a/v receiver that is physically located in a master bedroom some 50 feet away from my modem. I need to provide this Denon a/v receiver with an Internet connection so that it can obtain its firmware updates and I need to connect this Denon a/v receiver to my network in order to use its AirPlay feature. I believe l still need the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features because I am not sure if the new wireless router will provide me with the NAS like features / capabilities I need to share files between my two Apple laptops with OS X 10.8.2. And I know that I absolutely need my TC's seamless integration with Apple's Time Machine (TM) application in order to continue to make effortless backups of my two Apple laptops. To my knowledge nothing works with TM like Apple's TC. I also need the hard disk storage space built into the TC.
I cannot use a long wired Ethernet cable connection in this apartment and I cannot use power-line adapters. I have read that wireless range extenders and repeaters are difficult to successfully set-up and that they will reduce data speeds, especially so when incorrectly set-up. I cannot relocate my modem and/or primary base station wireless router.
In short, I want to use my TC with my new and more powerful wireless router. I need to stop using the TC to connect to the modem. However, I still need the TC for seamless TM backups. I also need to use the TC's built in hard drive for storage. And I may still need the TC's NAS capabilities to share files wirelessly between laptops because I am assuming the new wireless router will not provide NAS capabilities for OS X 10.8.2 (products like this/non-Apple products rarely seem to work with OS X 10.8.2/Macs to provide NAS features and capabilities). Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone please advise on how to set-up my new Asus wireless router with my existing TC in such a way to accomplish all of this?
What is the best configuration or set-up to accomplish my above goals?
Thank you in advance for your assistance!!!
THE FULL STORY
I live in an apartment building where my existing Time Capsule (TC) is located in my living room and serves many purposes. Specially, my TC is at least all of the following:
(1) Wi-Fi router connected to Comcast Internet service via Motorola SB6121 cable modem - currently the TC is the Wi-Fi base station that connects to the modem and has the gateway address to the Internet. The TC now provides the DHCP service for the Wi-Fi network.
(2) Wireless router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to several Wi-Fi clients - two Apple laptop computers, an iPod touch, an iPad and an iPhone all connect wirelessly to the Internet via the TC.
(3) Wired Ethernet router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to three different devices - a Panasonic TV, LG Blu-Ray player and an Apple TV each use one of the three LAN ports on the back of the TC to gain access to the Internet.
(4) Primary base station in my attempt to extend my wireless network to a distant (located far away) Denon a/v receiver requiring a wired Ethernet connection - In addition to the TC, which is my primary base station, I am also using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. I cannot use a wired Ethernet connection to continuously travel from the living room to the master bedroom. The distance is too great as I cannot effectively hide the Ethernet cable in this apartment.
(5) Time Machine (TM) backup facilitator - I use my TC to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops using Apple's Time Machine (TM) application. However, I ran out of storage space on my TC and therefore added external storage to it. Specifically, I added an external hard drive to my TC via the USB port on the back of the TC. I now use this added external hard drive connected to the TC via USB as the destination storage drive for my TM back-ups. I have partitioned the added external hard drive, and each of the several partitions all have enough storage space (e.g., each of the two partitions used by TM are sized at three times the hard drive space of each laptop, etc.). Everything works flawlessly.
(6) Network Attached Storage (NAS) - In addition to using the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) capabilities to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops via TM, I also store other additional files on both (A) the hard drive built into the TC and (B) the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB (there are additional separate partitions on this drive for these other additional and non-TM backup files).
I use the TC's NAS feature with my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Again, everything works wirelessly and flawlessly. (Note: the Apple TV is connected to the network via Ethernet and a LAN port on the back of the TC).
The issue I am having is when I try to listen to music via Apple's AirPlay in the master bedroom. This master bedroom is located at a distance of two rooms away from the TC's current location in the living room, which is a distance of about 50 feet. This apartment has a long rectangular floor plan where each room is connected to the next in a straight line. In order to use AirPlay in the master bedroom I am using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. This additional base station connects wirelessly to the WiFi network provided by my TC and then gives my Denon receiver the wired Ethernet connection it needs to use AirPlay. I have tried moving my iTunes music directly onto my laptop's hard drive, and then I used AirPlay on this same laptop to connect to the Denon receiver. I always get a successful connection and the song plays, but the problem is that the connection inevitably drops.
I live in an apartment building and all of the many wireless routers in this building create a great deal of WiFi interference on both the 2.4 GHz and 5GHz bands. I have tried connecting the Netgear product to each the 2.4 and 5 GHz bands, but neither band can successfully maintain a wireless connection between the TC and the Netgear product. I also attempted to maintain a wireless connection to an iPod touch using the 2.4 GHz band and AirPlay on this iPod touch to play music on the Denon receiver. Again, I was able to establish a connection and successfully play music, but after a few minutes the connection dropped and the music stopped playing. I therefore have concluded that I have a poor wireless connection in the master bedroom. I can establish a connection, but it is intermittent with frequent drops. I have verified this with both laptops by working in the master bedroom for an entire day on both laptops. The Internet connection in this master bedroom proved to drop out frequently - about once an hour with the laptops. The wireless connection and the frequency of its dropout are far worse with the iPod touch and an iPhone.
I cannot relocate the TC. Also, this is an apartment and I therefore cannot extend the range of my network with Ethernet cable (I cannot drill through walls/ceilings, etc.). It is an old building with antiquated wiring and power-line adapters are not likely to function properly, nor can I spare the direct power outlet required with a power-line adapter. I simply need every outlet I can get and cannot afford to block any direct outlet.
My solution is to use a more powerful wireless router. I found the ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router which will likely provide a better connection to my wireless Internet in the master bedroom than the TC. The 802.11ac band of this Asus wireless router is totally useless to me, but based on what I have read I believe this router will provide a stronger connection at greater distances then my TC. And I will be ready for 802.11ac when it becomes more widely available.
However, I still need to maintain the TC's ability to work seamlessly with TM to backup my two laptops. Also, I doubt the new Asus router will provide OS X 10.8.2 with NAS like features and capabilities. Therefore, I still would like to use the TC's NAS capabilities to share files on my network wirelessly assuming the Asus wireless router fails to provide this feature. I need a new and more powerful wireless router, but I need to maintain the TC's NAS features and seamless integration with TM. Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone advise on how to set-up my existing TC with this new Asus wireless router in such a way to accomplish all of this?
Modem
Motorola SB6121 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
Existing Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Apple Time Capsule
Apple Time Capsule MC343LL/A 1TB Sim DualBand (purchased June 2010, likely the Winter 2009 Model)
Desired New Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Non-Apple Asus
ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router
Extended Wi-Fi Base Station - Provides an Ethernet Connection to a Denon A/V Receiver Two Rooms Away from the Modem
Netgear Universal Dual Band Wireless Internet Adapter for TV & Blu-Ray (WNCE3001)
Addition External Hard Drive Attached to the Existing Apple Time Capsule via USB
WD My Book Studio 4TB Mac External Hard Drive Storage USB 3.0
Existing Laptops on the Wireless Network Requiring Time Machine Backups
MacBook Air (11-inch, Mid 2012) OS X 10.8.2
MacBook Pro (13-inch Mid 2010) OS X 10.8.2
Other Existing Apple Products (Clients) on the Wireless Network
iPod Touch (second generation) is model A1288.
iPad (1st generation)
Apple TV (3rd generation) - Quantity two (2)

Thanks Bob Timmons.
In regards to a Plan B, I hear ya brother. I am already on what feels like Plan Z. Getting WiFi to a far off room in an apartment building crowded with WiFi routers is a major pain.
I am basing my thoughts on the potential of a new and more powerful router reaching the far off master bedroom based on positive reviews on cnet.com, pcmag.com and pcworld.com. All 3 of these web sites have reviewed the Asus RT-AC66U 802.11AC wireless router as well as its virtual twin cousin 802.11n router. What impressed me is that all 3 sites rated this router #1 overall in terms of both range and speed (in both the 802.11n and 802.11AC flavors). They tested the router in real world scenarios where the router needed to compete with a lot of other wireless routers. One of the sites even buried this Asus router in a media room with thick walls and inside a media cabinet. This Asus router should be able to serve my 2.4 GHz band wireless clients (iPod Touch and iPhone 4) with a 2.4GHz Wireless-N band offering some 50 feet of dependable range and a 60 Mbps throughput at that range. I am hoping that works, but it's borderline for my master bedroom. My 5 GHz wireless clients (laptops) will enjoy a 5GHz Wireless-N band offering 150 feet of range and a 200 Mbps throughput at that range. I have no idea what most of that stuff means, but I did also read that Asus could reach 300 feet and I got really excited. My mileage may vary of course and I'm sure I'm making some mistakes in my interpretation of their data. However, my Winter 2009 Time Capsule was rated by cnet.com to deliver real world performance of less than that, and 802.11AC may or may not be useful to me someday. But when this Asus arrives and provides anything other than an excellent and consistent wireless signal without drops in the master bedroom it's going right back!
Your solution sounds great, but I have some questions. I'm using OS X 10.8.2 and Airport Utility (version 6.1 610.31) and on its third tab labeled "Wireless" the top option enables you to set "Network Mode" to either:
Create a wireless network
Extend a wireless network
Off
Given your advice to "Turn off the wireless on the TC," should I set Network Mode to Off? Sorry, I'm clueless in regards to how to turn off the wireless on the TC any other way. Can you provide specific steps on how to turn off the wireless on the TC? If what I wrote is correct then what should the rest of this Wireless tab look like, or perhaps it is irrelevant when wireless is off?
Next, what do you mean by "Configure the TC in Bridge Mode?" Under Airports Utility's fourth tab labeled "Network" the top option "Router Mode" allows for either:
DHCP and Nat
DHCP Only
Off (Bridge Mode)
Is your advice to Configure the TC in Bridge Mode as simple as setting Router Mode to Off (Bridge Mode)? If yes, then what should the rest of this "Network" tab look like? Anything else involved in configuring the TC in Bridge Mode or is it really as simple as setting the Router Mode to "Off (Bridge Mode)"?
How about the other tabs in Airport Utility, can they all stay as is assuming I use the same network name and password for the new Asus wireless router? Or do I need to make any other changes to the TC via Airport Utility?
Finally, in regards to your Plan B suggestion. I agree. But do you have a Plan B for me? I would greatly appreciate any alternative you could provide. Specifically, if you needed a TC's Internet connection to reach a far off corner of your home how would you do it? In the master bedroom I need both a wired Ethernet connection for the Denon a/v receiver and wireless Internet connection for the iPhone and iPod Touch.
Power-Line Adapters - High Cost, Blocks at Least One Wall Outlet and Does Not Solve the Wireless Need
I actually like exactly one power-line adapter, which is the D-Link DHP-540 PowerLine AV 500 4-Port Gigabit Switch. This D-Link power-line adapter plugs into your wall outlet with a normal sized plug (regular standard power cord much like any other electronic device) instead of all of the other recommended power-line adapters that not only use at least one wall outlet but also often block the second outlet. You cannot use a power strip with a power-line adapter which is very impractical for me. And everything about my home is strange and upside down. The wiring here is a disaster and I don't have faith in its ability to carry Internet access from the living room to the master bedroom. And this D-Link power-line adapter costs $90 each and I need at least two to make the connection to the Denon A/V receiver. So, $180 on this solution and I still don't have a dependable drop free wireless connection in the master bedroom. The Denon might get its Ethernet Internet connection from the power-line adapter, but if I want to use an iPhone 4 or iPod Touch to stream AirPlay music to the Denon wirelessly (Pandora/iTunes, etc.) from the master bedroom the wireless connection will not be stable in there and I've already spent $190 on just the two power-line adapters needed.
Extenders / Repeaters / Wirelessly Extending the Wireless Network
I have also read great things about the Amped Wireless High Power Wireless-N 600mW Gigabit Dual Band Range Extender (Repeater) SR20000G and the My Net Wi-Fi Range Extender. The former is very powerful and the latter is easier to install. Both cost about $150 ish so similar to a new Asus router. However, everything I read about Range Extenders points to them not being very effective for a far off corner of your house wherein it's apparently hard to place the range extender in the sweet spot where it both gets a strong enough signal to actually effectively extend the wireless signal and otherwise does not reduce network throughput speeds to unacceptable speeds.
Creating a Roaming Network By Hard Wiring with Ethernet Cable - Wife Would Say, "**** No!"
Even Apple seems to warn against wirelessly extending your network (see: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4145#) and otherwise strongly recommends a roaming network where Ethernet cable is used to connect two wireless base stations. However, I am in an apartment where stringing together two wireless base stations with Ethernet cable would have an extremely low wife acceptance factor (WAF). I cannot (both contractually and from a skill prospective) hide Ethernet wire in the walls or ceiling. And having visible Ethernet cable running from room-to-room would be unacceptable, especially to the wife.
So what is left? Do you have a Plan B for me? Thanks in advance for your help!

Msi big bang xpower2 - only boots for 10 seconds, displays error b7

Hey guys,
As the title states. I am getting 'b7' on the error display which i read somewhere means 'no input devices detected', can someone confirm this? I have tried turning on the PC with 1 GPU, 2 GPU, and no GPU in different configurations but I get the same error each time. It just boots for 10 seconds, displays 'b7' and then restarts and does it all over again. Help would be massively appreciated as I need this PC for work :(
Thanks

More than likely it's 67 - Late CPU Initialization
Just providing the name of your MB is not enough info. Please supply information for rest of your system, not knowing what kind of RAM, model CPU and other components mates it very difficult to help track down cause your problem.
See my signature below for example of info to provide.
>> Posting Guide <<

Using a second display

I just purchased a 15" Powerbook and have attached a 23" Cinema Display. I have several questions:
Is it possible to turn off the second display without physically detaching it from the PB?
Is it possible to turn off the PB screen and just use the second display? (I know about getting a second keyboard and keeping the PB closed.)
When I have the two displays in "mirror" mode, I am not getting a full screen on the second display when i use the highest resolution on the second display. Is there a way to correct this and still maintain the highest resolution on the second display?
Thank you very much.

Hi cerett --
I have to preface my responses by saying I don't have a second display attached to my PowerBook. That said, I think I can answer the first two of your three questions. Here goes:
• Is it possible to turn off the second display without physically detaching it from the PB?
I think your 23" ACD has a power button, right? If so, why can't you just power down the ACD if you want to turn it off without physically detaching it from the PB.
Alternatively, and this also goes to my answer to your second question, you could turn down the brightness to the point where the screen is totally dark. Now, this doesn't seem like an ideal solution by any means, because you'd still have power running to the ACD for no reason, but it would seem to accomplish what you want anyway.
• Is it possible to turn off the PB screen and just use the second display? (I know about getting a second keyboard and keeping the PB closed.)
You write that you already know how to use your PowerBook with the display closed. See: http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=86286 So, it sounds like you would like to leave your PB open, but just not have the display on. If so, it seems to me you could just decrease the brightness (using the F1 key or, of course, System Preferences > Displays > Display) to the maximum extent possible so that they display goes totally dark. May not be an ideal option (see above analysis), but it would seem that it should work for you.
Sorry, but I can't help with your third question. I'm not sure, but you might increase your chances of getting the information you need, if you reposted that third question in the Apple Cinema Displays forum, here -- http://discussions.apple.com/forum.jspa?forumID=981 -- as the answer to this question may have more to do with the characteristics of the ACD than of the PB. I'd wait to see if someone comes along here first, and, if not, then repost there.
Good luck.
-- JDee

Driver for a second display

I have an AOC brand monitor and the proper DVI connections to add it as a second display, however it doesn't work as plug and play and the AOC website only has windows drivers and says to contact Apple tech support for an appropriate plug and play driver. Where can I find a driver for this?

You should not need any drivers, unless it is some specialized monitor that does more than a normal DVI display (such as touch screen or 3D).
What is the native resolution? An iMac can go up to 1920x1200 pixels for an external display that is DVI (which is a typical 23" or 24" widescreen display). Larger displays (higher resolution) will not work.

ATI Radeon 4870 won't detect second display

ATI Radeon 4870 won't detect second display I have a sony that come up as a sdm-hs95p and a asus that i want to connect they both have vga and both have conveters vga to dvi and on the asus it also has a dvi to mini dp because on the graphics card it has dvi and mini dp

You can't use more than one converter per display.
You need to get single converter that connects directly from the Mac port to the display.

24"iMac....adding second monitor...... mirror or extended desktop?

I have a new 24 inch aluminum iMac.
I also have a year old 23 inch Apple Cinema display that I was thinking of adding as a second display.
If I did, would that mirror my existing display, or would it allow me to extend the desktop that I already have?
I would like to extend the desktop. If I could do that, what connector would I need to get to make that happen?
Thanks for the help and advice.

You will be able to choose mirroring or extended desktop in the "Arrangement" tab of "Displays" system preference.
You will need a Mini-DVI to DVI adapter
<http://store.apple.com/1-800-MY-APPLE/WebObjects/AppleStore.woa/wa/RSLID?mco=E5 EF5328&fnode=home/shopmac/macaccessories/displays&nplm=M9321G/B>
If the display is the old 23" with the plastic case and ADC, you will also need a DVI to ADC adapter
<http://store.apple.com/1-800-MY-APPLE/WebObjects/AppleStore.woa/wa/RSLID?mco=64 1148B1&fnode=home/shopmac/macaccessories/displays&nplm=M8661LL/B>

Buying a new iMac; can i use my eMac as a second display?

Hi, I'm just about to buy an iMac (intel core 2 duo), probably 17" 2 GHz with some extra RAM.
I currently have an eMac, and now I wonder, is there any way to use it (the eMac) as a second display for the iMac? Obviously, the eMac doesn't have any video input, but I'm thinking that maybe there is some third party solution that could send the second screen image through ethernet, firewire or usb? Or if there is any other way to solve this. Since I'm going to use the iMac for Logic Pro, I find it usable to keep the arrange window and mixer window on seperate screens, and I can't quite afford buying a new screen atm.
Though, if it doesn't work to do like this, maybe I'll buy an extra screen at some point in the future. Would I, in that case, need a special graphics card on the iMac? Or does it support two screens (with seperate content) as it is?
Thanks!

Hello,
Thanks for this great reply! I marked it as helpful.
By the way I happened to write another reply myself
(not to you, to my own post) while you wrote yours,
just wanted to note that to avoid confusion. I'm not
very used to these forums, sorry...
Yes, the forums can take some getting used to.
I saw your second post, and that is why I wrote my second reply. I thought you were clarifying based on my reply See we all get confused sometimes
Anyway, I guess a delay would probably grow
incredibly irritating very quickly, so I guess it
wouldn't be an acceptable sustainable solution,
really.
Yes, the delay would probably be quite a problem in real use. The only way I could see around it would be to move slowly and then stop and make sure that the pointer doesn't end-up beyond where you stopped.
If you waited say 3 or 4 seconds and then clicked, you would know that the pointer is where it is.
But, that would slow-down your productivity.
I think a second monitor would be best.
So maybe buying a new screen is the best/only
"solution"... In that case, I think an LCD screen is
probably best as CRT's sometimes interfer with sound
equipment... So not having to turn one screen off
everytime I want to use a microphone would be
convenient.
Yes, an LCD screen would probably be much more convenient. I much prefer LCD screens myself.
So, I'll simply be on the outlook for used LCD
screens, then... Thanks!
You're welcome. Glad I could help.
Let me know if you have other questions.

Second display refresh rate lower in Mac OSX than Windows

I use a Mitsubishi Diamond Pro 2070SB CRT monitor connected to my MacBok via a miniDVI to VGA adapter; I span the desktop on both monitors (i.e. I do not use the Mirror Displays option). I use this configuration in both Mac OSX and Windows (via bootcamp). On Windows, I can set the refreesh rate of my CRT monitor to 75 Hz at 1600x1200, but I am stuck to 60 Hz on Mac OSX at 1600x1200. To get a more respectable refresh rate on my CRT, I need to lower the resolution to 1400x1050.
Obviously, the video card of the MacBook can handle a second display at 1600x1200 at 75 Hz since I can do that on Windows. Any ideas how to get the same result on Mac OSX?

Either DisplayConfigX or SwitchRes X should be able to remedy this. But I am at a loss to explain why OS X would itself not allow for the 75Hz choice.

Adding Second Display... Do I Need A More Powerful Card?

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