ADIBE 11 SPEED HIGH 2.4 MINE 1.6x2; REAL 10 HIGHEST W/O CRASH; ADOBE DEACTIVATES MUST ACTIVATE EACH WINDOW`

WINXP DUAL 1.6MH
ADOBE REFUSED TO INSTALL 11
REAL BEST AT V10 HIGHER DISLIKED
YOUTUBE ASKS TO ACTIVE ADOBE ON EACH
TAB - HOW DO YOU FIX THIS
[email protected]

Hi Rayphos:
Please post in lowercase and uppercase. ALL-CAPS is not the best tone way to post; it conveys a tone that's not the friendlest.
I am not sure what your problem is and what it has to do with Firefox.
Perhaps you need to file your question on the ADOBE support site?
Or perhaps quitting out of all web browsers (including Firefox) and then re-installing Adobe flash will fix it?
These are guesses since I really don't understand what your problem is.
Therefore if the above doesn't help, please re-state and clarify your problem and what it has to do with Firefox so that we can actually help you :-) !
Cheers!
....Roland

Similar Messages

What is the best and easiest way to speed up a Mac-MINI?

What is the best and easiest way to speed up a Mac Mini without adding memory?

I'd tried to reply yesterday to your question but for some reason it didn't go anywhere and I got a red message box in the Discussion post area with "error." After trying three times, including log-out, clear cookies from browser (and history) and back in, I still was unable to add my post with links to resources for your Mini, here. And the last time I tried that, the copied text also went missing as I found it gone after considering to make a Text document of it, for later posting.
Anyway, the http://iFixit.com site has guides on how to replace RAM in the computer you have. Note there are different models shown and from what I remember, yours is the last 'old look' Mini with an optical drive. The model after that is thin, a 2010 model with slot in front for discs; the next one has no internal optical drive.
RAM specs: 2 - 204-pin PC3-8500 (1066 MHz) DDR3 SO-DIMM (replace pair) up to 8GB total. Best price would be an online vendor of repute, once you know about what they sell for, you could ask a local mac expert if they could get you a better than retail price. I get ram from OEMPCworld and shipping is about $1. including insurance to my post office box, priority or 1st class. At about half retail. Crucial (website) offers parts, too; and so does OWC (other world computing).
In addition, I recommended checking into the build specs and quality of the OWC (esales) site for external enclosures with their own power supply, for hard disk drive; for storage and bootable clones on different partitions. And see about Bombiche Carbon copy cloner, it is a commercial product now, not donationware. I've used it successfully to make competely bootable clones on a suitable external HDD (drive should have own power supply, too) A 750GB HDD in a self-powered enclosure that can boot Mac OS X from a clone, is a good start on backing up your upgraded OSX in a way you can clone it back into an empty, wiped or new HDD inside the computer; and it can run from the external. You can't necessarily use a TimeMachine that way.
This should be your Mini -- check other indicators to be sure:
http://www.ifixit.com/Device/Mac_Mini_Model_A1283
A serial number lookup site such as the one I end up using because I had it bookmarked is OK: http://www.powerbookmedic.com/identify-mac-serial.php & also have mactracker http://mactracker.ca
Anyway, before I time out or exceed post content(?) This is not all I meant to write before.
Good luck & happy computing!

Slow Speed & High Noise

Hi there,
I recently joined BT broadband and I have not been getting the speeds that I have been promised,
With my last provider I was getting speeds of 14 meg but when I switched to BT I have been only getting speeds varying from a min of 6 meg to a max of 9.1 meg,
Also I have installed an I-plate on my master socket but it seems that It have increased my noise margin from DB to DB,
Although I have a habit of restarting the home hub to try and get better speeds sometimes, I was wondering if DLM has noticed this as a line fault and therefore increasing the margin

constantly resetting the hub to try and improve your connection speed will have the effect you describe in that the exchnage will see your line as having problems and will increase the noise margin and decrease the speed to try an establish a stable connection.
it may help if you connect to the test socket and then see if that improves your connection. you can also remove the bellwire from terminal 3 in all sockets. I know that is the idea of the accelerator but removal is 100% effective
bellwire removal
If you like a post, or want to say thanks for a helpful answer, please click on the Ratings star on the left-hand side of the post.
If someone answers your question correctly please let other members know by clicking on ’Mark as Accepted Solution’.

Please god . deactivate this product. Your troubleshooters dont work, cannot deactivate. I am using RETAIL, adobe acrobat xi.Connected to internet. On for over 20 min. Open to deactivate greyed out. Windows 7 x64 pro. This crap makes people want to use fr

Please god . deactivate this product. Your troubleshooters dont work, cannot deactivate. I am using RETAIL, adobe acrobat xi.Connected to internet. On for over 20 min. Open to deactivate greyed out. Windows 7 x64 pro. This crap makes people want to use fraud. I just want it OFF do i can USE it on another COMPUTER.
can anyone in customer support deactivate this??

Hi Terry,
I have checked the serial number and found that you have sufficient activation count left to install it on 2 computers.
Please uninstall the software and activate it on the other machine. In case of issues please let me know and I will help you.
Here is my direct email: [email protected]
Chat Support email:
http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/global/service1.html
Regards,
Rave

Is it possible to have a phone line connected to a Mac Mini (OS X10.8.2) so you can use your computer with Parallels (Windows xp) to dial into a modem to download data being collected and stored at the remote location?

Is it possible to have a phone line connected to a Mac Mini (OS X10.8.2) so you can use your computer with Parallels (Windows xp) to dial into a modem to download data being collected and stored at the remote location?

Hi, do you mean a real Dial-up Modem as in the old days?
As I recall, the Apple USB Modem won't work in 64 bit OSes, but there are others that will, I think this is one of them...
http://www.zoomtel.com/products/dial_up_external_usb.html
Or is the Modem on the other end Cable/DSL/FiberOptic?

All my files just disappeared from my pages and numbers apps on my mini iPad. Under Usage, both still show 350 MBs used for each. Ideas?

all my files just disappeared from my pages and numbers apps on my mini iPad. Under Usage, both still show 350+MBs used for each. Ideas?

Hello r253,
The following troubleshooting steps can help get your documents to reappear on your devices.
Documents I've updated on my Mac or uploaded from iCloud.com don't appear on my iOS device
If you're using an iWork for iOS app (Pages, Numbers, or Keynote), check the iCloud system requirements and make sure that you're using the latest version of iWork. For third party apps, check the documentation that came with the app, or check with the app developer to make sure the app supports iCloud. App Store application descriptions often indicate whether the app supports iCloud.
Go to Apple () menu > System Preferences on your Mac. Click iCloud and confirm that you're signed in to iCloud and the Documents & Data checkbox is selected.
After opening your iOS app, wait a few minutes for the documents to appear. Your iOS device may not have connected to iCloud since changes were made to the document at iCloud.com or on your other devices.
Try creating a new document on your iOS device, then check again for the documents from iCloud to appear.
Go to Settings > iCloud > Documents & Data and confirm that Use Cellular Data is turned on.
Confirm that you're connected to the Internet by checking for an Edge, 3G, 4G, LTE, or Wi-Fi icon in your device's status bar. Test your connection by opening apple.com in Safari.
Try resetting iCloud Documents & Data service.
iCloud: Troubleshooting Documents in the Cloud
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS3991
Cheers,
Allen

I bought (used) a hp mini 110-1000 netbook that at the time had what appeared to be windows 7 starte

I bought (used) a hp mini 110-1000 netbook that at the time had what appeared to be windows 7 starter on the machine. After booting into windows, it displayed the blue screen of death. I didn't locate a recovery partition or was able to access windows system restore, so I ordered a windows starter usb system recovery and received it today. After trying unsuccessfully to reinstall windows I am at a loss. It gets about a third of the way installing the software on the system and then it says it failed. I ordered by both the model number (110-3000 , or product wy699av) and serial number {Removed for privacy}. I am at a loss as to what to do, as I have bought a usb recovery media and it won't continue the install. Nowhere on the netbook is a sticker declaring the os or the model number so i researched by the other model #'s i found listed..Please help, and thanks.

I dont know how they had windows starter on this unit, but the sticker is for xp. Guess I bought a recovery usb stick that is usless to me, and now I'm stuck with it. I also checked the bios and it said it had a non vista os, after I found out how to get into it. I still don't understand how I was able to order the win 7 starter recovery usb, even after I input the serial number into the form. I would have thought it wouldn't allow me to order an incorrect os.

Slow speed/high SNR margin after upgrade to ADSL2+...

I have an issue with slow speed that I am suspecting is caused by a high SNR margin (about 12dB) which has come about (I believe) due to the fact that my router was repeatedly reset during the first few days of the upgraded service. The exchange was upgraded to ADSL2+ on 3rd January.
I have a US Robotics 9108 which has worked fine for nearly six years. I was getting around 8Mbps before the upgrade which isn't far off the theoretical maximum.
There was a problem with my router and I only found it to be my router at fault over the last few days. Upgrading its firmware has cured the problem which was that requests weren't being fulfilled once connection had been established, (seemingly particularly when this was ADSL2+ or ADSL2 mode). Consequently, I reset my router in these instances and I believe that this will have been interpretted by the exchange as being due to line noise. In general, I disabled ADSL2 and 2+ modes on my router to force it back to G.DMT and it usually worked fine (albeit slow sync rate relative to that I had before 3rd January).
During fault conditions, the connection synced OK. I recently borrowed a router and tried it and it immediately connected faster than mine had done previously and I could access the web without issue. This confirmed that my US Robotics was at fault, and after downloading its latest firmware, it fixed the problem.
There is no bell wire as there are no hard wired extensions from the master socket. I use a single filter which plugs directly into the master socket (i.e. no extension lead to the filter).
I was using a BT filter (MF50) I got in 2004 when I first got broadband. This came with a Voyager 100 modem and is a rebranded YCL one. I have since replaced this with a Z350-UK which I have borrowed. The US Robotics didn't come with any filters.
With the BT filter, caller display does not work at all when the router is connected in ADSL2 mode. In G.DMT mode the problem with caller display was intermittent. The Z350-UK has rectified the problem with caller display not working when in ADSL2 mode. I have ordered a Pressac Interstitial VDSL Faceplate as a perminant solution.
Do I need to contact the support helpline to get this fixed? Or will the SNR margin drop over time? As I say, I got around 8Mbps before the upgrade.
I am presently connected in 2+ mode and stats are:
SNR margin (dB):
12.8
5.4
Attenuation (dB):
34.0
12.0
Output power (dBm):
0.0
12.8
Attainable rate (Kbps):
8984
1144
Rate (Kbps):
6495
1144
I have just run the BT Speed Test and the results are:
Test1 comprises of two tests
1. Best Effort Test: -provides background information.
Download Speed
5282 Kbps
0 Kbps
7150 Kbps
Max Achievable Speed
Download speedachieved during the test was - 5282 Kbps
For your connection, the acceptable range of speeds is 2000-7150 Kbps.
Additional Information:
Your DSL Connection Rate :6495 Kbps(DOWN-STREAM), 1144 Kbps(UP-STREAM)
IP Profile for your line is - 5730 Kbps
2. Upstream Test: -provides background information.
Upload Speed
938 Kbps
0 Kbps
1144 Kbps
Max Achievable Speed
>Upload speed achieved during the test was - 938 Kbps
Additional Information:
Upstream Rate IP profile on your line is - 1144 Kbps
We were unable to identify any performance problem with your service at this time.
It is possible that any problem you are currently, or had previously experienced may have been caused by traffic congestion on the Internet or by the server you were accessing responding slowly.
If you continue to encounter a problem with a specific server, please contact the administrator of that server in the first instance.

once you have maintained 3 days + stable connection then you can contact the forum mods on this link and request a noise margin reset http://bt.custhelp.com/app/contact_email/c/4951
they normally reply by email or phone directly to you within 72 hours
you do not need to contact the helpline
They are a UK based BT specialist team who have a good record at getting problems solved
If you want to say thanks for a helpful answer,please click on the Ratings star on the left-hand side If the reply answers your question then please mark as ’Mark as Accepted Solution’

Weird "speed brake" on Mac Mini 2009 with Lion

Hi all,
this is bizarre: I have a Mac Mini from 2009 running Lion (with server).
For weeks (months?), it's been incredibly slow, spinning beachball of death and all.
When I look at the Disk Activity pane of Activity Monitor, for example when starting multiple applications, I peak at about 3.3 MByte/s... usually, the throughput (read or write) is no more than in the triple 100KByte/s range !
When I run Blackmagic DiskSpeedTest on the same drive, it consistently delivers around 55 MByte/s.
At first, I thought it was my Drobo slowing things down (as I can't get more than 5MByte/s out of that), so I deinstalled Drobo Dashboard completely, also removing Kernel Extensions, etc. But that wasn't the issue, apparently. Even when I eject the Drobo, performance doesn't get better.
Anyone have an idea what on earth this might be?
I would hate to have to reinstall my system, that would be a mound of work.
Thank you!
Best regards,
Hans

HDD failing? Do you have a second partition with OS X/Windows/Linux on the computer that you can run the speed tests from?
The speed may not actually be to do with the HDD, though. Speed tests sometimes are over-optimistic. It might be to do with apps running in the background, caching to disk, anything really.

Attach movie clip speed increase after 2 min

i am making a game in falsh as2
see this link to understand http://createview.in/try/game.html
this function for one fruit.
so there are 10 functions i want to increase speed of falling fruits after 2 min for making difficulties to user
makegd is function for bonus golden fruit it will come every 3 min
PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
function makeOne() {
          if (seconds>0) {
                    clearInterval(ranOneID);
                    ran = (Math.random()*10000+8500);
                    ranOneID = setInterval(makeOne, ran);
                    One = _root.attachMovie('n_red', 'n_red'+depth, depth++);
                    nBalls.push(One);
                    //trace(allBalls);
                    One._x = Math.random()*500;
                    One._y = -350;
                    One.speed = (Math.random()*3)+2;
          One.onEnterFrame = function() {
                    this._y += this.speed;
                    if (this._y>Stage.height+100) {
                              //updateScore(-5);
                              black=black+1;
                              for (i=0; i<allBalls.length; i++) {
                                        if (this == allBalls[i]) {
                                                  allBalls.splice(i, 60);
                              this.removeMovieClip();
                    if(this.hitTest(slider_mc.kat)){
                    red = red+1;
function makegd() {
          if (seconds>0) {
                    clearInterval(rangdID);
                    rangdID = setInterval(makegd, ran);
                    gd = _root.attachMovie('golden', 'golden'+depth, depth++);
                    goldenBalls.push(gd);
                    //trace(allBalls);
                    gd._x = Math.random()*500;
                    gd._y = -100;
                    gd.speed = (Math.random()*8)+3;
          gd.onEnterFrame = function() {
                    this._y += this.speed;
                    if (this._y>Stage.height+100) {
                              //updateScore(-5);
                              for (i=0; i<allBalls.length; i++) {
                                        if (this == allBalls[i]) {
                                                  allBalls.splice(i, 1);
                              this.removeMovieClip();
makeOne();
makeTwo();
makeThree();
makeFour();
makeFive();
makeSix();
makeSeven();
makeEight();
makeNine();
makeTen();
setTimeout(makegd,180000);

Thank you Kglad for your quick response.
one thing that not happen
makegd is function for bonus golden fruit it will come every 3 min
it comes after 3 min but it's not single fruit that function work like other fruits.
function makegd() {
          if (seconds>0) {
                    clearInterval(rangdID);
                    rangdID = setInterval(makegd, ran);
                    gd = _root.attachMovie('golden', 'golden'+depth, depth++);
                    goldenBalls.push(gd);
                    //trace(allBalls);
                    gd._x = Math.random()*500;
                    gd._y = -100;
                    gd.speed = (Math.random()*8)+3;
          gd.onEnterFrame = function() {
                    this._y += this.speed;
                    if (this._y>Stage.height+100) {
                              //updateScore(-5);
                              for (i=0; i<allBalls.length; i++) {
                                        if (this == allBalls[i]) {
                                                  allBalls.splice(i, 1);
                              this.removeMovieClip();
setTimeout(makegd,180000);

High Spec Mac Mini v Macbook

I want a Mac with 1GB Ram/DVD RW and about 120GB HD
The Mini comes out a little cheaper but doesn't have the webcam or a screen.
The Macbook also has the faster chip Core 2 and 2.0 v the 1.83 on the mini.
I can't really see why anyone would want the mini
Am I missing something?

At $1299, the reason a MacBook wouldn't be on my shopping list is that the screen is perfect for mobility, but too small for serious use or for ready use in presentations etc. Added to that, I would not generally want to spend money on an Apple slot-loading DVD burner if it was for serious use, since I've never found these to be particularly likable devices or all that reliable on a variety of media. Thus, not only would I need USB keyboard and mouse because I dislike having to use inbuilt laptop devices for these functions unless I have no option, but I'd also have to add an additional 17 or 19 inch LCD display and an external hard drive for backups, along with an external burner for more trustworthy performance.
Of course, I'd want the same extras for the mini, but with the base model plus 1Gb RAM that would bring the total to $674, allowing me another $600 to add the screen, a couple of external drives (one for added storage and the other for backups) and an external high-performance dual layer DVD burner, and still have a fair bit of change for a system that was capable of pretty much exactly the same thing the MacBook would do, with much the same performance, for somewhat less money, and all I'd sacrifice is portability.
The compromise would seem to be the iMac, but the base model, while having a good 17" display, would still need a memory upgrade, has the same integrated graphics as the mini and would of course need an extra hard drive for backups and DVD burner anyway. The next model up also has 17" screen, but at $1199 is $100 less than a MacBook, somewhat faster due to the faster drive, and has an ATI graphics system. It would still need the extra drive for backups, and an external burner to obviate the potential shortcoming of the slot-loading drive of course.
Thus for me, the choice would be between entry-level mini (for best flexibility in allowing me to pick what I want my system to comprise while staying within the budget) or 2nd in the range 17" iMac (for best performance).
On balance, I'd likely go for the mini. Performance is not something that is typically as critical a factor as many believe, and as evidenced by the fact that there are countless G4 Macs (and G3s too come to that) still in active service doing complex work (I have several). We tend to think we need the latest/greatest/fastest/best, but in reality we rarely do for the tasks we have in mind. Of course, on the PC side, performance does count for a great deal since Windows grows and slows with every patch, fix and update and software tends to become bloated over time, but MacOS isn't quite so bad in that respect, so for example, even most (almost all) of today's most power-hungry Mac software will run on yesterday's Macs quite happily... as will MacOS itself.
Oh, and did I mention the countless G5 systems in regular use also..... These incredibly powerful Macs would be expected to do heavy-lifting work since they were so good in their day of course. But even the basic entry-level mini has processing power on a general par with those systems, so the mini can't be so easily dismissed in terms of practical usability and value.
But then I admit I am biased slightly. In my office there are several systems including dual core Intel and AMD systems running Windows 2000, XP and Vista - but my system of choice is typically my 7-year-old G4 powermac (with a CPU upgrade added a couple of years ago), and which still does stirling service for both routine tasks and video and image editing work, plus web development and publishing duties too.

Mac OS X Server, High Availability, Mac Mini

Hi All,
Currently running Mac OS X Server on a mac mini, I'm looking for some ways to make that mac mini "server" a high availability system for my office.
The first thing i will change is to install the operating system on a external firewire 2 disks RAID 1 hard drive : http://www.lacie.com/us/products/product.htm?pid=10967
Then I'm thinking how to make sure the rest of the mac mini will be running all the time as well.
That's why I'm wondering if it's possible to make everything double : 2 minis with 1 RAID hard drive each.
Each complete set would be linked to create somewhat of fail-over system : If one set woes the other one can take over with exactly the same data.
A bit like what it's been done here :
http://homepage.mac.com/pauljlucas/personal/macmini/cluster.html but with OS X Server instead of Linux.

Hi lulu62-
I am working on a similar project with Minis so I will be keeping an eye on your site.
In addition to Camelot's suggestions, do not forget to have a robust UPS with Automatic Voltage Regulation capable of supporting all of your gear for any expected down time.
The Mini is excellent because you can power it for a long time on a healthy-sized UPS.
Luck-
-DP

Shared drive access speed: AEBS vs Mac Mini

Quick question - suppose I share the same external HDD from either a) connected directly to an Airport extreme (previous gen n model) via USB or b) from another networked computer (spicifically a Mac Mini - 2.0 dual core, 2GB RAM, hardwired to AEBS) using USB or FireWire. Will one configuration or the other give faster access speeds from other networked computers?
Message was edited by: pdbennett

pdbennett wrote:
Will one configuration or the other give faster access speeds from other networked computers?
in my experience, a direct firewire connection is *by far* superior.
JGG

Slow Speeds/High Ping During Evening

Just signed up for Comcast this week. Noticed bad lag while gaming and speed tests indicate slow download speeds (<10 Mbps when I should be getting 75 Mbps) and high ping (200-300ms). Checked everything hardware related on my end and couldn't find an issue. Finally, did some trace routing and discovered high ping on Comcast servers in San Jose and Great Oaks. See tracert results below. These issues seem to occur during the evenings (8pm to midnight PST), but the few checks I did during the day seemed fine. It may be related to streaming volume at night. In any event, it's ruining my internet experience. How can this be resolved? Tracing route to e10905.dspb.akamaiedge.net [23.211.8.171]
over a maximum of 30 hops:1 1 ms <1 ms <1 ms router.asus.com [192.168.2.1]
2 14 ms 11 ms 10 ms 98.207.208.1
3 13 ms 18 ms 10 ms te-0-7-0-17-sur03.pleasanton.ca.sfba.comcast.net
[68.86.142.189]
4 16 ms 12 ms 14 ms 162.151.78.209
5 25 ms 13 ms 30 ms be-101-ar01.santaclara.ca.sfba.comcast.net [68.8
5.154.105]
6 * * * Request timed out.
7 317 ms 305 ms 305 ms be-10910-cr01.sanjose.ca.ibone.comcast.net [68.8
6.86.102]
8 501 ms * 452 ms be-14-pe02.11greatoaks.ca.ibone.comcast.net [68.
86.83.34]
9 356 ms 305 ms 305 ms a23-211-8-171.deploy.static.akamaitechnologies.c
om [23.211.8.171]Trace complete.C:\Users\Derek>tracert google.comTracing route to google.com [74.125.239.96]
over a maximum of 30 hops:1 1 ms <1 ms <1 ms router.asus.com [192.168.2.1]
2 10 ms 9 ms 9 ms 98.207.208.1
3 10 ms 13 ms 9 ms te-0-7-0-17-sur03.pleasanton.ca.sfba.comcast.net
[68.86.142.189]
4 17 ms 11 ms 13 ms 162.151.78.209
5 18 ms 14 ms 22 ms be-101-ar01.santaclara.ca.sfba.comcast.net [68.8
5.154.105]
6 * * * Request timed out.
7 189 ms 255 ms 250 ms he-0-10-0-0-pe02.529bryant.ca.ibone.comcast.net
[68.86.86.26]
8 229 ms 337 ms 418 ms 66-208-228-70.ubr01a.hurtl301.al.hfc.comcastbusi
ness.net [66.208.228.70]
9 236 ms 305 ms 305 ms 72.14.232.138
10 213 ms 218 ms 187 ms 66.249.95.29
11 194 ms 286 ms 321 ms nuq05s01-in-f0.1e100.net [74.125.239.96]Trace complete.C:\Users\Derek>tracert google.comTracing route to google.com [216.58.192.46]
over a maximum of 30 hops:1 1 ms <1 ms 1 ms router.asus.com [192.168.2.1]
2 14 ms 10 ms 9 ms 98.207.208.1
3 14 ms 9 ms 10 ms te-0-7-0-17-sur03.pleasanton.ca.sfba.comcast.net
[68.86.142.189]
4 15 ms 11 ms 17 ms 162.151.78.209
5 17 ms 13 ms 13 ms be-101-ar01.santaclara.ca.sfba.comcast.net [68.8
5.154.105]
6 * * * Request timed out.
7 427 ms 305 ms 304 ms he-0-14-0-1-pe03.11greatoaks.ca.ibone.comcast.ne
t [68.86.86.202]
8 210 ms 305 ms 304 ms 173.167.59.66
9 479 ms 305 ms 305 ms 209.85.241.55
10 282 ms 305 ms 304 ms 74.125.37.43
11 215 ms 305 ms 304 ms nuq04s30-in-f14.1e100.net [216.58.192.46]Trace complete.

The same thing is happening for me. I live in Houston, Texas and my ping to a game called LoL was around 80 now its at 90. It's not a huge difference and I don't notice anything when gaming. I'm just curious as to why this has happened?

IPad Mini 3 LTE Upload Speeds Slower than iPad Mini Gen 1

I have both an iPad Mini Gen 1 (non-retina) and a new iPad Mini 3. Both units are WiFi + Cellular and are on Verizon Wireless. The iPad Mini Gen 1 indicates full signal strength when on LTE, 5 dots. The iPad Mini 3 indicates only 2 or 3 dots. The difference in the number of dots, or bars, could simply be a difference in the method used to calibrate signal strength. My first impression though was that the new Mini 3 did not have as sensitive a receiver as the Gen 1 Mini, so I decided to do some bandwidth tests.
Both units indicated a ping time averaging 40 milliseconds. The download speeds were comparable, approximately 23 Mbps. The upload speed for the iPad Gen 1 was approximately 20Gbps whereas the new Mini 3 was much slower, only 5Gbps. Both my phones are also on Verizon and they gave me speed numbers like the Gen 1 mini.
So why would the new Mini 3 be so much slower when uploading, and why would the signal strength be so much weaker? I must add that the Verizon tower I connect through is line-of-sight about 1/4 mile away on the hill behind my house. I should have full signal strength on any device.
Getting technical here, all I can think of is that the two iPads are operating on different LTE frequency bands and not connecting through the same tower. The iPad Mini Gen 1 can only operate on Verizon's 700MHz LTE which is band 13. The new iPad Mini 3 can operate on either LTE band 13 or the new 1700MHz band 4. The new 1700MHz band is now being used to alleviate congestion on the old 700MHz band. Perhaps since my device is one of the few that can operate on the new 1700 MHz frequencies, Verizon is forcing my device to use that band? Maybe that could account for the upload speed difference between the two devices?

I find it interesting to hear that the new Mini 3 has this issue. I purchased two iPhone 6 pluses and activated them both around the 1st of October.. Both 6's are upgrades from 5's. I have been going round and round with both Verizon TSS and AppleCare Senior Tech Support about having 100's of dropped calls, weaker signal strength than my iphone 5's and the iphone 6's tendency to grab 3G service when both iPhone 5's have solid LTE service. Apple engineers have had me jump through many redundant hoops including multiple restores, network resets, setting the phone up as new, having Verizon reprovision the line, I have even had one iPhone 6 replaced and tried three SIM cards. Things I have figured out on my own are that toggling Airplane Mode on/off usually makes the iPhone 6 switch back to LTE (But only for a little while. And doing this also temporily increases LTE signal strength when LTE is on 1 dot.) and as you suspect about your Mini 3 I have confirmed that the iPhone 6 Plus is almost always on Band 4 (XLTE Band) (The iPhone 6 does sometimes switch to Band 13. The iPhone 5 only supports Band 13 and therefore is always on that band). Something to note about Band 4 vs. Band 13 is that there are two important differences in these bands. Band 4 has double the bandwidth of band 13 (20Mhz vs. 10MHz). Band 4 operates in the 1700 MHz frequency range and Band 13 operates in the 700 Mhz frequency range. One pitfall of Band 4 being in the 1700Mhz range is that the signal can travel less distance than Band 13 can in the lower 700 MHz range. Being that Band 4 has less reach it leads me to conclude that is the reason why I am seeing less signal strength on the iPhone 6 Plus (And you on the Mini 3).
**The way I finally figured out how to determine the band the iPhone's are using I found searching the web for peole experiencing my issues. Verizon could not tell me what band I was using, even when I was on the phone with them. On the iPhone there is a sequence of numbers, pound signs and asterisks that you enter in the dialer and press send. This brings up a field test that tells you many things about your network/carrier service (Many things which are Greek to me, as I am not a cellular engineer). Using this field test I have driven hundreds of miles watching what band I am on and my signal strength ( In what I assume is decibels). All that I have learned has yet to assist me in having Apple or Verizon resolve my issues.

ADIBE 11 SPEED HIGH 2.4 MINE 1.6x2; REAL 10 HIGHEST W/O CRASH; ADOBE DEACTIVATES MUST ACTIVATE EACH WINDOW`

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for