Adjustment panel: black point disappeared

Today the section that includes black point is no longer visible for some reason. This is one of my most used adjustments. Any idea on how to make it visible again?
Any help most appreciated.
Ken

Please disregard. I clicked on + and then selected exposer and the panel showed back up. Not sure why it went away in the first place.
Ken

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Adjusting black point

I prefer to adjust the exposure sliders with the keyboard's arrow buttons. But adjusting the Black Point this way is hopeless, because the steps are way too small to give any noticeable change. The steps are divided up as 0.05, 0.10, 0.15 and so on. But I can't really see any difference before I've adjusted a whole number, from 3.0 to 4.0 and 5.0 etc.
I think the first version of Aperture had these bigger steps, and then they changed it, maybe to have the same steps as the other exposure sliders. But I think a 1.00 step on Black Point corresponds more to a 0.05 step on the other sliders. So changing it back would be much more meaningful. What do you think?

"{Shift}+arrow" will get you tenths instead of twentieths. That's all I got. :-)

Adjustment Brush Circular Point or Pin Has Disappeared

Hi,
The Circular Point or Pin on the Adjustment Paint Brush Has Disappeared. I re installed Lightroom 2 software hoping it would appear after the re-install. It did not re-appear.
Any suggestions on how to re-install it?
Thank You,
Hersul

Lee beat me to it again
This happens a lot - both the pins disappearing and Lee Jay beating me to the answer. :o)
Dave

Adjustment panel disappears in

I am new to CS4, upgraded from PSE8. WinXP Pro. I am going through "Classroom In A Book" and learning things I really like. Tonight, I start the program and hit Alt-Ctrl-Shift and reset everything. I open up Bridge and start on a RAW photo like I have been doing the last few days. I start with opening Histogram and then go to the Adjustment Panel. If I open LEVELS, I can use that function only as the Adjustment Panel disappears. After completing the task and hitting SAVE, there is no Adjustment Panel to be found anywhere. I have to close CS4 and reboot using the Alt-Ctrl-Shift command and then the Adjustment Panel reappears when I open a photo. I can not find this problem anywhere on the Adobe site...any ideas or HELP out there??? I appreciate anything!

Hi Wroger,
Your mistake is in "closing" the levels window. You are actually closing the adjustments palette.
When you have finished the levels adjustment and want to make another adjustment, just click on the little arrow on the bottom left hand corner of the adjustments panel, and all the other adjustments will be available.
Roger

Problem with Black Point adjustment

When making Black Point adjustments (with hot and cold highlights enabled) my photos suddenly turn completely blue. If I hold click the slider button, I can see the photo again as expected.
I also notice this histogram is empty.
I have the same problem with both my Nvidia and Radeon graphics cards.
This problem has started since my upgrade to 10.5.7
Has anyone else experience this? ...am I doing something wrong?

I think I have found the problem. For some reason the Black Point values were incrementing in much higher values than before.

White and black point vs ??

I never know which forum to post these things, so I'll start with the photographers.
 
 These three shots are as follows: (1) the camera raw version, (2) where I moved the sliders from the ends to approximately the beginning/end of the major portion of the histogram, and (3) using the threshold control to find the white and black points in the main part of the picture.
 
 Then, in the two adjusted versions, I lightened the image with the curves control.
 
 In both these cases, I used the grey dropper to touch the same spot on one of the rocks, to get the apparent neutral point.
 
 It seems to me that the threshold method to find the white and black points is preferred, based on the overall color and appearance of the finished adjustment.
 
 But, I've found on some images where the histogram has missing black and missing white, if I adjust the sliders to these two ends, I get pretty much the same outcome, as far as the contrast, color, and grey point.
 
 Could I have some advice on the preferred method to use in handling my image adjustments? Doing it the threshold method takes more time, and sometimes it's difficult to find the white and black points, or even the grey point.
 
 Thanks.
 
 Al
 
 
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<img alt="Picture hosted by Pixentral" src="http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/1SlEeG9kfwzD34gVOEcCbg7Ktp83p3_thumb.jpg" border="0" />
 
 
<a href="http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=1tIEs4eAyKz4sxamyVaYRlKjTIIfKj" /></a>
<img alt="Picture hosted by Pixentral" src="http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/1tIEs4eAyKz4sxamyVaYRlKjTIIfKj_thumb.jpg" border="0" />
 
 
<a href="http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=17K3ewFXsGo4K2uH5TGfO06CdVayyn1" /></a>
<img alt="Picture hosted by Pixentral" src="http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/17K3ewFXsGo4K2uH5TGfO06CdVayyn1_thumb.jpg" border="0" />

Yes the image was purposely underexposed. What I was trying to accomplish was to speed up the shutter speed to remove the slight blurring and compensate by pulling data from the shadows. Even though the lens has an image stabilizer the amount of light wasn't enough for a proper sharp shot.
this image is before touch up
These two images are F/5.6, 1/20, ISO 800
After touch up
Better lit scene but shows slight motion blur
This last image is F/5.6, 1/4, ISO 800
I believe that I will have to wait next year and hope I have a faster lens by then. I just don't think the 28mm-135mm f/3.5-5.6 lens is fast enough. I was trying this without a tripod to get in tighter.
Also I was taking these shots without the flash to get the drama of the tree lights.
What I would have prefer is a shutter speed of 1/125 or better as it helps with my hands shaking I believe the slowest should be 1/60
And the lower the ISO the better for noise.
These preferences are what I am used to with my Canon G3 that does not have IS.
I am getting so off track here, lol. But anyways, here are the pictures.

Recovery, and Black Point Not Working in 2.0

I imported RAW pics from my old database (converted to 2.0). Wanted to try the new exposure adjustments, mainly recovery and BP. The HUD only lets me adjust exposure and brightness, the recovery and black point are grayed out and cannot be adjusted.
Has anyone got this adjustment to work? I am using the trial version. No, I am not in the preview mode. The master is Canon RAW from 40D.

Got it. Thanks! Just figured it out too that you need to choose the v2.0 RAW conversion on the RAW Fine Tuning adjustment toggle.
Recovery and BP adjust a lot more sluggish on my MBP w/4G Ram then it does in the tutorial video. This is concerning since in have only imported about 40 pics so far.
Time will tell.

Aperture2 - Recovery and Black Point adjustments question

I purchased the Aperture2 upgrade and, I'm impressed!!!
I have a question:
In the *Adjustment Tab*:
Two features in the *Exposure area, "Recover and Black Point"*, works sometimes and other times it does not.
There must be a reason for it - I just can't figure out why this happens. One would think that it should work all the time!?
Anyone know?

C and Scott, thanks so much for trying to help this old codger learn new tricks.
All the images I imported into Aperture2 are projects already completed and therefore I won't need to make adjustments to them. I was using them to test and learn the new Aperture2 features.
But, Just in case I ever need to convert a RAW image from A1x to the A2 format I'll know how to do it.
As I said before, as long as my new RAW images that I import directly into A2 have all the features available, I'm a happy camper. I won't be importing any images into A2 until after my shoot this evening, so, do you know if this is the case?

Setting White, Mid and Black Points in Camera Raw 7

I am using Camera Raw 7 and can not seem to locate where can you set the white, mid, and black points in Camera Raw with the eyedropper tool. It seems you have to create a new psd file in Photoshop to do this, which does not make much sense since it is a basic levels adjustment. I am batch editing a bunch of CR2 files, and I just need to select the black, mid and white points on a grayscale that I've shot in the images - is there a way to do this in Camera Raw 7? Thanks!!

ACR doesn’t work that way. There is an eyedropper for the overall white-balance that you can set by clicking on a relatively bright, neutral area, but there aren’t black and white-point eyedroppers. But, what is clipped black or white is determined by the output colorspace you have set at the bottom and you can get some idea of what will be clipped black and white by turning on the clipping indicators and watching for the areas you’d be eye-droppering on (the black and white patches in your grayscale) to start showing the clipping color overlay for black and white, but any further toning adjustments will move data in and out of what is darker than black and lighter than white so what is clipped for output will change as you fiddle with the various toning sliders.
The reason things are different: In PS, when you set a black-point and white-point in Levels and click Ok, the data below and above those is thrown away and that is the starting point for the next adjustment. In ACR, things are non-destructive and all the adjustments occur simultaneously, rather than sequentially as in PS, and no clipping occurs until you create the output file. This means that the pixels that are darker than your black-point and lighter than your white-point are still there, and can be moved into the black-to-white range if you do further toning adjustments. Having more headroom of the pixels that are outside the black-to-white range is good because you won’t get the posterization or banding that occurs when colors and levels are clipped after each adjustment in PS.
Can you describe what you intend your overall workflow to be on an image: how much adjusting will occur in ACR and how much, if any, might happen in PS, after the image is opened into PS from ACR, or opened from a file saved from ACR? There might be other ways to approach what you’re trying to accomplish.

When to set white/black point

Hello,
My apologies if this is a dumb question.
I am new to Photoshop and am making a start on tidying up all my photos. I am keen to establish a good workflow but am unsure on which steps to take first.
At the moment after opening up my image in Photoshop, I first check the histogram and then if necessary use the sliders in Levels to make any adjustments.
I've started trying to set the white/black point values too but am unsure as to when to set them. Please can anyone tell me whether I should take a sample of each at the very beginning before I make any adjustments or at the very end.
Many thanks.

First of all one should apply Adjustments as Adjustment Layers and the fewer the better as regards potential banding (but this can occasionally be alleviated by switching the layered version to 16bit).
It may be a matter of taste, but if one does use the white- and black point I’d rather have it used at the beginning (or farther down below as an Adjustment Layer).
Additionally I’d recommend trying to do as much of the global Adjustments as possible with a single (Curves-) Adjustment Layer.

Black Point Compensation for JPEG export?

Hiya,
I'd like to print photos via the web, and therefore want to export the photos as JPEGs. I just checked the options in the export preset panel, and realised that one can select "Black Point Compensation" as an option for the export.
Does anyone have any experience with this setting? Should one use it, if one doesn't know the printer in use?
Thanks in advance for any feedback.
Regards,
Stephan

Stephan,
I'd like to print photos via the web, and therefore
want to export the photos as JPEGs. I just checked
the options in the export preset panel, and realised
that one can select "Black Point Compensation" as an
option for the export.
Does anyone have any experience with this setting?
It's a fairly reliable fix if your test prints come back with murky shadows.
Should one use it, if one doesn't know the printer in
use?
I don't know of a good way to optimize files for unknown printers. I'd recommend getting a profile for the printer/paper combo used by your lab and soft-proofing on your Mac. Have you calibrated your screen, etc.?
The soft proof will get you in the ballpark. Definitely order small (8x10 or so) test print before laying out long green for a poster-sized one.
Cheers,
Andreas

Setting White/Black Points using the Tone Curve

I'm trying to set white/black points using the tone curve, but when I try to slide either of the end points of the line in the tone curve tool I can't get them to move. Could those be locked somehow...?

That's what it is supposed to do. Without the sliders, you are working with the curve itself. Now you have direct control of the curve, and can drag any part of it. Have you considered setting your white and black points using the whites and blacks in the basic panel while holding down the alt/opt key? I suppose the reason it says point curve is because that icon is what you used to switch to the point curve.

Recovery & Black Point dimmed/not usable

In two of my Projects, all of the RAW files can't be adjusted using the Recovery or Black Point tools. All other tools are fine. And just these two projects are affected. What can I do to resolve this?

If you need to change the RAW fine tuning for multiple images you can migrate them all at once, read this:
http://www.aperturenetwork.com/showthread.php?t=12429

Black point compensation for onscreen proofing

Hi there,
In Aperture, is there any way to turn Black point compensation on for onscreen proofing (i.e. not using the export procedure, where this actually is available)? This option is available in Photoshop, for example.

Stephan,
I'd like to print photos via the web, and therefore
want to export the photos as JPEGs. I just checked
the options in the export preset panel, and realised
that one can select "Black Point Compensation" as an
option for the export.
Does anyone have any experience with this setting?
It's a fairly reliable fix if your test prints come back with murky shadows.
Should one use it, if one doesn't know the printer in
use?
I don't know of a good way to optimize files for unknown printers. I'd recommend getting a profile for the printer/paper combo used by your lab and soft-proofing on your Mac. Have you calibrated your screen, etc.?
The soft proof will get you in the ballpark. Definitely order small (8x10 or so) test print before laying out long green for a poster-sized one.
Cheers,
Andreas

Black point

Hi,
After upgrading Aperture to 3.3 all my photo's appear be less bright in "view" mode. Also photo is indicated as too much black, which cann't be adjusted via the black point key in the adjustment field. Anyone got this problem also?
regards, Arnold

Arnold,
you can now adjust the brightness individually for the Viewer and the Browser in the Preferences;
Preferences > Appearance
Adjust the "Viewer Brightness" slider and the "Full Screen Brightness" slider. Does this help?
Added: How do you try to set the Black Point? In the "Exposure" brick? Have you tried to type directly into the number field besides the black point slider? In what way does i not work for you?
Regards
Léonie

Adjustment panel: black point disappeared

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