Advice needed on Mac Air or Pro?
As my faithful HP laptop of 9 years is now on it’s last legs, after reading so many positive reviews about the Macs, I am considering purchasing one of these.
I would really appreciate some advice on some concerns/reservations I have:
My first dilemma is which is more appropriate, I personally like the look of the air because it is smaller & I was reading that the SSD is better than what is on the Pro (sorry I am not very technical! ).
My use:
Mainly internet browsing
Itunes
I don’t do any gaming
Photo editing (hobby not professional)
Small amount of work in word & excel (minimal)
To give you idea of my current usage I looked on my current PC settings and my usage on my C drive is 99.3gb of a 148gb. Most my photos I have backed up on an external hard drive, but would like to have them back on my laptop.
Questions:
Would I be able to use this external hard drive on a Mac? (it’s a Cirago)
Would I be able to open Excel & Word documents on a Mac?
I currently use Opera for my internet which I really like, would I be able to download this on a Mac?
Sorry if some of these questions seem a little dumb, but I am a complete novice & know nothing about the Macs!
Any advice would be very much appreciated!
Either the MacBook Air or Pro would suit your needs. The MBA's greatest assets are its extreme portability and SSD while the MBP's greatest assets are its internal DVD and expandability. I have both (one is mine and one supplied by work) and given a choice of just one I'd choose the MBA. i seldom need a DVD drive.
OGELTHORPE's advice to go for the 256GB drive (even though it might seem that you don't need it) is spot on. A very large percentage of customers who buy the 64 & 128gb models come back to the store where I work part time within 6-18 months with full drives.
Mac Office 2011 is very similar and will take care of your Office needs - LibreOffice is an open source product (and free) which will open and let you edit your documents. And assuming your drive uses USB (and I'd assume it does) you'll be able to use it with your new Mac. There are two common Windows disk formats - the Mac can read both but can only write to FAT. You may or may not want/need to reformat it.
Similar Messages
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Looking to buy a new Mac, which is better Mac Air or Pro?
I currently own a 13.3inch LED-backlit widescreen notebook Mac book pro from 2011 and am looking to upgrade. I'm in my last year of high school and will be starting college next year. I'm really into photography, and use my computer for all my notes and assignments in class. SD card slot is prefreable. Really lost as to what I should get, not looking to spend over $1,500.00 (roughly, open to ideas). Is it worth buying an 11'inch basic? If so how can I connect my SD card? ANY help is very appreciated:)
13" Air with 8gig of RAM
11" Air doesnt have a SD card slot. Ive owned both 11 and 13" Air, still have a 13", and also a current pro.
If as you said you plan on much photo editing, then definitely get the 13"
The NEW macbook Pro and Air are extremely close in form factor
The newest macbook Pro is essentially a larger macbook Air with Retina display and options for speed in increasing prices up to an independent graphics and quad core processor.
both Air and new Pro now have PCIe SSD and permanent RAM.
The Air is the lightweight portable form factor, fast to boot and shut down, but with longer battery life than any of the macbook pro in 13"
Now the new macbook Pro and macbook Air are extremely close in form factor and nature.
both have 802ac wifi
both have permanent RAM, no superdrive
both are slim profiles and SSD
The only real differences now are (in the most expensive Pros) faster processors and quadcore processors and top end model autonomous graphics, also HDMI output on the new macbook Pros!. ....and of course the retina display
both are now "very good for travel"
DETAILED bench tests between the new AIR and the new PRO here:
http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2013/11/how-to-choose-13-inch-macbook-air-vs-13-i nch-retina-macbook-pro/2/
Other than features the form factor of the Air and Pro are VERY close now,....so now its merely a matter of features and price more than anything.
You need an external HD regardless of what you get for backups etc. Drop into an Apple store and handle both and make your choice based on features, such as Retina or non-retina, .... both at a distance now look like the same computer.
The Pro weighs more, ....but nowhere near what it used to just a month ago on the older macbook Pros
The NEW macbook Pro is a different creature entirely than the older macbook Pro, .....the new Pro is thicker than the Air, but id frankly call the NEWEST Pro a "macbook Air with Retina display" , or
Maybe a “macbook Air PRO with Retina display”
Instead of Air vs. Pro now,.....its really a smooth transition from Air to pro without comparing say, 2 different creatures, now its like contrasting a horse from a race horse (rough analogy)
Either one in 8gig of RAM (preferably)... the 4gig upgrade costs very little, the I7 you will notice only 15% faster on heavy applications over the I5, and NOTHING on most APPS.....I5 has longer battery life.
As you see below, the non-Retina 13" AIR is 82% of the Macbook with Retina display in resolution
there is no magical number of pixels per inch that automatically equates to Retina quality.
http://www.cultofmac.com/168509/why-you-might-be-disappointed-by-the-resolution- of-those-new-retina-display-macs-feature/
A huge internal SSD isnt a game changer for anything, you need an external HD anyway
what you WONT READ on Apple.com etc. is that the larger SSD are much faster due to SSD density
"The 512GB Samsung SSD found in our 13-inch model offers roughly a 400MB/s increase in write speeds over the 128GB SanDisk/Marvell SSD"
http://blog.macsales.com/19008-performance-testing-not-all-2013-macbook-air-ssds -are-the-same
Here is an excellent video comparison between the 11” I5 vs. I7 2013 Macbook Air.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDqJ-on03z4
http://www.anandtech.com/show/7113/2013-macbook-air-core-i5-4250u-vs-core-i7-465 0u/2
I5 vs. I7 performance 13” Macbook Air 2013
Boot performance
11.7 I5 ……11.4 I7
Cinebench
1.1 I5….1.41 I7
IMovie Import and Opt.
6.69 I5….5.35 I7
IMovie Export
10.33 I5…8.20 I7
Final Cut Pro X
21.47 I5…17.71 I7
Adobe Lightroom 3 Export
25.8 I5….31.8 I7
Adobe Photoshop CS5 Performance
27.3 I5…22.6 I7
Macbook Pro ports:
Macbook Air (13") ports: -
Buying my first Mac, Air or Pro with retina?
I am buying my first Mac. Undecided between new Mac Air or Mac Pro with retina? Any help?
Well if your computer needs are light weight and how light the computer is important for you then get the MBA
If on the other hand your needs are more heavy weight and the weight of the computer doesn't matter then get the MBA
Allan -
Advice needed please - mac os x v10.5.8
just bought an iphone 5 for my husband and have found that my software does not support the version required to back up his old phone and then sync his new one. Have tried to buy and upgrade from the store but cannot seem to get it to work? when I check for updates it tells me there are not any available. my desktop is about 6yrs old but seems in pretty good condition - could it just be too old? it is a 2.4ghx intel core 2 duo processor. happy to purchase any software upgrades needed but not sure next approach...really hoping I don't need a new mac to support the iphone 5...!
Your Intel iMac can be upgraded to at least Snow Leopard. Check the link below for requirements and ordering info.
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MC573/mac-os-x-106-snow-leopard -
Hello I need Reset mac air firmware password
but in my Country not Applle Store. is other variants to reset it via online?
First, make sure caps lock is not on.
You must back up all data before continuing, unless you've already done so. If you need to back up but can't log in, ask for instructions.
If the user account is associated with an Apple ID, and you know the Apple ID password, then maybe the Apple ID can be used to reset your user account password.
Otherwise*, boot into Recovery by holding down the key combination command-R at startup. Release the keys when you see a gray screen with a spinning dial.
When the OS X Utilities screen appears, select
Utilities ▹ Terminal
from the menu bar.
In the Terminal window, type this:
res
Press the tab key. The partial command you typed will automatically be completed to this:
resetpassword
Press return. A Reset Password window opens.
Select your boot volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name) if not already selected.
Select your username from the menu labeled Select the user account if not already selected.
Follow the prompts to reset the password. It's safest to choose a password that includes only the characters a-z, A-Z, and 0-9.
Select
▹ Restart
from the menu bar.
You should now be able to log in with the new password, but your Keychain will be reset (empty.) If you've forgotten the Keychain password (which is ordinarily the same as your login password), there's no way to recover it.
*Note: If you've activated FileVault, this procedure doesn't apply. Follow instead the instructions on this page:
If you forget the password and FileVault is on -
I am going to buy either a Mac Air or Mac Pro Retina 8GB RAM and 256GB. And as I have to still run Windows programs I will install Parallels 9. As the Mac are both 64bit machines does that mean I need to install Windows 7 64bit or just install 32 bit? (Going with Win7 as I hate Win8). And I will install Office Pro 2013 64 bit too or 32 bit or is that automatically selected by the underlying OS (I use Word, Excel and Access mainly for a membership database of a local club) ? I am not a power user so would appreciate advice on way to go
Again thank you. If I only use word, excel and access in the Win environment and Mac OS for email and safari for internet do I need anti virus software . Ie my connection to the world is mac only and I use office pro only to ruin the club, newsletters, membership database etc. and of course anything I do there can drag/drop to the mac environ to email. That's my understanding anyway. Next will my existing .pst file copy directly into mac mail or do I have to runs translator as I recall reading something about that ages ago when I started thinking Mac
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I need to get a MacBook to do PowerPoint word and excel, do I need to get the retina pro or would an air do ?
An Air will do very well. Microsoft has Mac versions of these applications so there will be no compatibility issue.
Ciao. -
Video intensive work on Mac Pro? Advice Needed
Hi everyone,
I've been originally saving up for a while now for an iMac 24" as it offers the best specification price wise. But now I leaning on the Mac Pro and therefore need some advice.
I know that there are alot of posts on advice - need to buy mac etc. so therfore I would really appreciate if I am afforded some help.
I am mostly going to do ALOT of video encoding (via handbrake) and I am looking for the best configuration available to achieve lowest waiting time.I think you should go back and look at the other threads with advice, your budget. There is "ideal" and "affordable."
Will it pay for itself in 24 months so you can afford the next revision at that time?
Start with an 8-Core 3GHz.
Add a Port Multiplier controller and two drive cases, 5 drives each, nearly 400MB/sec RAID.
Throw in 8GB RAM.
Add in costs for software upgrades, two sets of backups, four internal 500GB drives.
Seagate has 750GB, as does WD. Hitachi has their $450 1000GB monster.
Give yourself time to build, test, and optimize your setup, and expect to change it over time as you learn more.
Can't afford that? then trim the 8-core. But Apple has shown how efficient next generation applications already are for video when it comes to 3GHz 8-core Mac Pro. -
I have purchased a new iMac and I have an Logic Pro version 8 installed on my Mac air. Can someone tell me how to migrate it to the iMac since I misplaced my CDs.
You should be able to hook the two up and run the migration assistant app to transfer all apps to the new machine.
Mike,
I do agree with you... that you *could* do that but the issue is the large number of reported problems, here and elsewhere, by people trying to use MA with Logic.... resulting in them having to re-install Logic and it's content, from scratch anyhow.. negating the use of MA to achieve this..
I also believe, though I have no proof of course, that based on previous similar situations on the App Store, there will be no discount for recent purchaser of Logic 9 when the next major version of Logic is released... but then again, the current price of Logic 9 is the same price as the Logic 8 to Logic 9 upgrade price was anyhow.. so in reality, for me at least, it would be reasonable to pay that same price for the Logic 9 to Logic <whatever> anyhow!
Cheers.. -
Advice Needed - Migrating to Macbook Air
This is a multi-facited question and I am seeking advice most of all.
I have a 2008 iMac
I would like to retire it and use my 2011 Mac Air as my primary computer (With a Thunderbolt Display)
If I use the Migratiion Assistant - will I have to delete the files currently on my Mac Air?
Is there a way to merge them?
My concern is also space. With x free
I have 256 ssd hard drive on my air. with 80 free
The drive on the iMac is 320 Gig HD with 170 Gigs free
I have important programs such as CS6 on my iMacs drive - I would prefer not to have to reinstall them.
I have heard that there are issues with booting and updating an OS on an external drive.
I have considered using Super Duper to move my iMacs system to an external drive and selectively boot to it as needed.
Is that a good idea?
Any advice is truly appreciated.A Basic Guide for Migrating to Intel-Macs
The Knowledgebase article Intel-based Mac: Some migrated applications may need to be updated refers to methods of dealing with migrating from PowerPC chips to Intel with the Migration Assistant safely. The authors of this tip have not had a chance to verify this works in all instances, or that it avoids the 10.6.1 and earlier Guest Account bug that caused account information to get deleted upon use of the Migration/Setup Assistant. However, a well backed up source that includes at least two backups of all the data that are not connected to your machine will help you avoid potential issues, should they arise. In event it does not work, follow the steps below.
If you are migrating a PowerPC system (G3, G4, or G5) to an Intel-Mac be careful what you migrate. Keep in mind that some items that may get transferred will not work on Intel machines and may end up causing your computer's operating system to malfunction.
Rosetta supports "software that runs on the PowerPC G3, G4, or G5 processor that are built for Mac OS X". This excludes the items that are not universal binaries or simply will not work in Rosetta:
1. Classic Environment, and subsequently any Mac OS 9 or earlier applications
2. Screensavers written for the PowerPC System Preference add-ons
3. All Unsanity Haxies Browser and other plug-ins
4. Contextual Menu Items
5. Applications which specifically require the PowerPC G5 Kernel extensions
6. Java applications with JNI (PowerPC) libraries
See also What Can Be Translated by Rosetta.
In addition to the above you could also have problems with migrated cache files and/or cache files containing code that is incompatible.
If you migrate a user folder that contains any of these items, you may find that your Intel-Mac is malfunctioning. It would be wise to take care when migrating your systems from a PowerPC platform to an Intel-Mac platform to assure that you do not migrate these incompatible items.
If you have problems with applications not working, then completely uninstall said application and reinstall it from scratch. Take great care with Java applications and Java-based Peer-to-Peer applications. Many Java apps will not work on Intel-Macs as they are currently compiled. As of this time Limewire, Cabos, and Acquisition are available as universal binaries. Do not install browser plug-ins such as Flash or Shockwave from downloaded installers unless they are universal binaries. The version of OS X installed on your Intel-Mac comes with special compatible versions of Flash and Shockwave plug-ins for use with your browser.
The same problem will exist for any hardware drivers such as mouse software unless the drivers have been compiled as universal binaries. For third-party mice the current choices are USB Overdrive or SteerMouse. Contact the developer or manufacturer of your third-party mouse software to find out when a universal binary version will be available.
Also be careful with some backup utilities and third-party disk repair utilities. Disk Warrior, TechTool Pro , SuperDuper , and Drive Genius work properly on Intel-Macs with Leopard. The same caution may apply to the many "maintenance" utilities that have not yet been converted to universal binaries. Leopard Cache Cleaner, Onyx, TinkerTool System, and Cocktail are now compatible with Leopard.
Before migrating or installing software on your Intel-Mac check MacFixit's Rosetta Compatibility Index.
Additional links that will be helpful to new Intel-Mac users:
1. Intel In Macs
2. Apple Guide to Universal Applications
3. MacInTouch List of Compatible Universal Binaries
4. MacInTouch List of Rosetta Compatible Applications
5. MacUpdate List of Intel-Compatible Software
6. Transferring data with Setup Assistant - Migration Assistant FAQ
7. OS X Lion: How to use Migration Assistant to transfer files from another Mac
Because Migration Assistant isn't the ideal way to migrate from PowerPC to Intel Macs, using Target Disk Mode, copying the critical contents to CD and DVD, an external hard drive, or networking will work better when moving from PowerPC to Intel Macs. The initial section below discusses Target Disk Mode. It is then followed by a section which discusses networking with Macs that lack Firewire.
If both computers support the use of Firewire then you can use the following instructions:
1. Repair the hard drive and permissions using Disk Utility.
2. Backup your data. This is vitally important in case you make a mistake
or there's some other problem.
3. Connect a Firewire cable between your old Mac and your new Intel Mac.
4. Startup your old Mac in Transferring files between two computers using FireWire.
5. Startup your new Mac for the first time, go through the setup and
registration screens, but do NOT migrate data over. Get to your
desktop on the new Mac without migrating any new data over.
If you are not able to use a Firewire connection (for example you have a Late 2008 MacBook that only supports USB:)
1. Set up a local home network: Creating a small Ethernet Network.
2. If you have a MacBook Air or Late 2008 MacBook see the following:
a. MacBook (13-inch, Aluminum, Late 2008) and MacBook Pro (15-inch,
Late 2008) - What to do if migration is unsuccessful;
b. MacBook Air - Migration Tips and Tricks;
c. MacBook Air - Remote Disc, Migration, or Remote Install Mac OS X and
wireless 802.11n networks.
Copy the following items from your old Mac to the new Mac:
In your /Home/ folder: Documents, Movies, Music, Pictures, and Sites folders.
In your /Home/Library/ folder:
/Home/Library/Application Support/AddressBook (copy the whole folder) /Home/Library/Application Support/iCal (copy the whole folder)
Also in /Home/Library/Application Support (copy whatever else you need including folders for any third-party applications)
/Home/Library/Keychains (copy the whole folder) /Home/Library/Mail (copy the whole folder) /Home/Library/Preferences/ (copy the whole folder) /Home /Library/Calendars (copy the whole folder) /Home /Library/iTunes (copy the whole folder) /Home /Library/Safari (copy the whole folder)
If you want cookies:
/Home/Library/Cookies/Cookies.plist /Home/Library/Application Support/WebFoundation/HTTPCookies.plist
For Entourage users:
Entourage is in /Home/Documents/Microsoft User Data Also in /Home/Library/Preferences/Microsoft.
Credit goes to Macjack for this information.
If you need to transfer data for other applications please ask the vendor or ask in the Discussions where specific applications store their data.
5. Once you have transferred what you need restart the new Mac and test to make sure the contents are there for each of the applications.
Written by Kappy with additional contributions from a brody.Revised 5/21/2011 -
Mid 2010 MacBook Pro - Logic Board Failure - Advice Needed
Hello all,
I could really use some advice.
I have a MacBook Pro that I bought through the Apple Online Store roughly around September of 2010. A couple of weeks after buying it I had to take it to the Apple Store in London's White City due to a keyboard backlight issue. About a week later I collected the MBP and the following day had to take it back as the technician that worked on it had not tightened the display brackets up leaving it a bit floppy.
Now I have serious issues with it. Recently the MacBook has been suffering from freezing up, booting issues and the display randomly shutting off (going black, no pixelating or anything) to the point the machine has become unusable. 2 days ago I took the MBP along to an appointment at the Genius Bar at London's Regent Street Apple Store, I also took along a copy of an Apple knowledge base article regarding this very issue. The knowledge base suggests that on any OS below Mountain Lion a software update is required, for ML or Mavericks an appointment with a service agent is required. During the appointment the Mac Genius suggested it may be a software issue, they would wipe the system and re-install Mavericks then test the machine, I told him I had done this a few days earlier but I guess they have to follow process. He then went on to suggest the display may be faulty, I told him I had no reason to suspect that was the case and moved the screen forwards and backwards at varying speeds without a glimmer of a flicker. At this point after reading about this issue on various forums prior to the appointment I felt that the guy was trying to imply anything maybe at fault but deliberately steering clear of suggesting the logic board, this is just my gut feeling however and i'm perfectly capable of being wrong but I do not feel I am! Anyhow I then proceeded to demonstrate the issue whilst the machine was on, warmed up and right in front of him. I gently and slightly lifted the front left corner of the machine a little way off of the counter, just enough to obviously flex the logic board by a minuscule amount and immediately the display went into a frenzy of going off and on.
So I left the MBP with them for the guys to do their thing. Today I received the following email:
"We have attempted to repair your machine by erasing all the data off your machine and reinstalling the latest operating system, Mavericks. This has not resolved the issue of the screen going black when in use. The issue has occurred again for a very short and brief few times once the machine had fully turned on and after testing the issue did not appear again.
I'm sure the issue will more likely occur again, to repair the machine we would need to replace a part known as the main logic board. This repair is very expensive and will come roughly to £418.80."
£418.80 GBP, that's pretty much 25% of the original purchase price of the machine new, a Premium 'Pro' labelled machine just 3 years old at that. I cannot possibly afford to pay for the repair. I really despair.
This MBP has done no work hard enough for it to get stressed. It is used for some web surfing, online shopping, email, online flash based games but mostly for my kids homework. It has spent it's entire life on a table in our living room with the exception of it's Genius Bar trips.
I love Apple products, it's why as a family we own so many off them. Too many to list on a public forum as I don't want would be burglars inviting themselves around sometime. This issue has tainted my perception of both Apple and it's products. Not so much because of the fault, machines become faulty. No because it's a premium machine that cost me £2100 new and is little more than a paperweight at present just 3 years down the line. Some part of me if i'm honest was wishing but more than that expecting a company like Apple to say along the lines of "This has happened, it shouldn't have and will be repaired at no charge". There are many people suffering this kind of problem with this model and the existence of the knowledge base article must mean Apple knows it too. Just 3 years, £300 PCs last longer than that i'm sure. It does seem to be a very short lifespan for such a high end machine.
My apologies for droning on but I can neither afford the repair or do without the computer, my son is in his final GCSE year at school and my daughter in her pre GCSE year so a computer is critical for school homework research etc. I just do not know how to move forward, I haven't even picked the machine up yet!
This isn't a stomping Apple, one man crusade. I just need my MacBook fixed.
If anyone has had this problem and had it satisfactory resolved, knows who to speak to that may help resolve the issue please let me know.
Any other advice will be more than welcome.Ive repaired 1000s of laptops over the years (translate: diagnose and replace parts).
Its not that old, Ive owned 100s of laptops (most were free) ....some I still have are nearly 13 years old and still perfect, ....some extremely expensive ones died in under a year.
other than becoming obsolete at some point, there isnt really any "will spoil on" data like Milk for solid state computer parts, ....alas.
You can have a $5000 laptop die in 4 months, and a junker one keep kicking after 10 years.... Ive seen that firsthand countless times.
Common logic dictates that "very expensive = long life" in computers,..... but all the repair people will tell you just the opposite.
I know you have a gripe, I get that all too well honestly . -
I have a Mac Air with 10.10 . Just purchased a HP Laserjet Pro M201dw printer. I can not get the duplex printing to work in Word or Pages. It does work for PDF files in Acrobat Pro. It won't for emails. In Pages I see two- sided but it is dimmed. I look at setups and it shows two -sided is off but can't find a way to change this setting. In the printer setting itself, the duplex box is checked. Need help. Did notice the driver only goes up to 10.9 but it says on Apple site of supported printers this one is listed.
Appreciate help in solving this issue.
Thanks in advance for anyone willing to give me some time and assistance.
FranAll I can suggest is that you open that file on the MBA and save it as a new file, then see if you can open the new one on the iMac.
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Macbook Pro 13" or Mac Air 13"
Hey, can anyone offer reasons to go with the 13" Macbook Pro over the new Mac Air 13". Plan on keeping this as my primary for the next few years. I heard a rumor that a new version of the Macbook Pro will be coming out in the next few months. Is it worth the wait ??
Next macbook pro is at least 7-8 months the new one just came out in March.... It's hard to make a recommendation when we don't know what your using the macbook for.... Do you travel alot? Do you carry the macbook to school or work? What sort of battery life are you looking for? What sort of applications will you be running? These are all things that matter when it comes to choosing any computer for certain tasks... As your primary I'm guessing mostly email, web, music, movies and that sort of thing?
The ssd is definately a plus for the AIR. But like the previous user stated; your not going to be upgrading anything internally on the AIR yourself. If you get a macbook pro, you could always buy an aftermarket SSD and swap at a later time as well as upgrade your ram, change the battery yourself after the warranty expires, etc.... If you need a graphically demanding machine do not get either one, you'll be dissapointed if your doing anything that requires a decent gpu. These both have integrated ones GPU's unlike the 15" macbook pro model. However, for the everyday user, the specs are plenty good enough to do most tasks.
Personally, I would go with the 13" macbook air. If not only because it comes with an SSD and was just released like a week ago, but also because RAM doesn't really matter when your using an SSD, 4GB is plenty enough. Hands down 13" macbook air with the 256GB SSD. -
Universal power pack for Mac air, Mac pro and ipad
Have an 10 hour flight comming up Would like to purchase universal power pack for Mac air Mac pro and ipad
I do not take Intergrative Nutrition, but I have some advice for choosing your device. Your choice of device should be based upon what you will use your device for currently and in the future.
If you are just using your device to use the internet and do light activities (smal typing, etc.) then the MacBook Air is a better choice. You should note that the Air has no Superdrive(for your DVD's CD's etc.) so you will have to put out more money to get one. It can also be slow because of the Flash Memory.
If you are going to be doing more "heavy" computing (photo editing, sound editing, lots of multitasking, large file sizes etc) then I would suggest getting the MacBook Pro.
If you prefer tablets, or tablet style reading then the iPad will be better for you. You should keep in mind that ther are restrictions on the files that you can view or work with on the iPad.
Overall, I prefer the MacBook Pro because of its versatility, durability and capabilities to do multiple file types. If you have any more questions, feel free to drop by your local Apple Store or Apple Authorize Retailer. They will be happy to help you! -
I purchased the 30 day subscription of Adobe Pro for my Mac Air and downloaded the app and opened it as instructed. Nothing appears to happen after that and I have been unable to use Adobe Pro thus far.
I previously downloaded a trial version of Adobe Pro and had used it the last 30 days. Today I just clicked on the link from my purchase confirmation and downloaded some type of installer. Once I clicked on the installer and gave it permission to do whatever it needed to do, it just sort of stalled. I am running Mac OS Yosemite. I thought Yosemitie might be part of the problem because it has given me occasional problems with Word and some other programs.
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