Advice on In Car Products

Hi. I am really struggling to find the best solution to use my Xperia Z3 Compact in my car. My previous phone was a HTC One and I was able to purchase a great Phone Holder to fix to my windscreen that put my phone into Car Mode so things like calls & texts were announced and read and calls were answered in loud speaker, also I had a Bluetooth dongle that plugged into my Aux port on my car stereo so I could listen to music on my phone & Google play but music was instantly silenced when a call came in. I have tried to use this dongle with my Z3 compact but it constantly connects & disconnects & when a call comes in, it just plays it through my phone instead of my speakers & doesn't go quite allowing me to answer. I've looked at various products but unlike HTC who create these solutions to work with thier handsets, I can't find anything to work with a sony handset that works seamlessly. Please can you advise on how I can get the best out of my phone in my car. For me this is a deal breaker, so if I can't make it work effectively I will be selling my handset to replace with a HTC. Many Thanks

Its a holder that is mounted on your windscreen. I'm not sure what you mean by contact your local Xperia care, that's why I have posted here. I have checked on eBay and Amazon and of course I can just buy some random product that turns out to be a waste of money, but I was led to believe this forum is a useful resource so I am asking for assistance. My question was for information on Sony Official, Approved or compatible equipment that does what I have described. I surely can't be the only one that wants to make their phone work effectively in their car for calls, texts and music!!!!!! What I am looking for is a) a suitable car mode on the handset itself so that calls get answered immediately on speaker phone, text messages & calls get announced etc. b) how can I connect my handset to my car stereo via Aux to play music which then gets silenced as a call comes in. And C) I need a cradle to hold my handset that fixes to the windscreen that is suitable for my phone as many non Sony cradles cover the buttons such as the power button that is on the side in the middle.

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Server Setup advice for a video production house

Hello Forum,
I recently started working for a small video production company, I need advice on the type of server and other hardware and services that will allow my co-workers to work efficiently. Here are some details:
Currently we are going to buy a new server, I am not sure what we should look at getting,
currently we use a mini mac running OSX server and have 6 iMacs that the editors and other staff use.
We also have a 15 TB Drobo network storage device which is attached to the mini-mac server we are going to replace.
The production team uses Final Cut and Motion to build documentaries.
The other issue is that need a way to connect the office in Baltimore to the office in Washington DC and ideally share files between each location, currently they cannot access the network from Baltimore and have to have a copy of the unedited footage on their own Drobo.
What type of server setup do you recommend? Quad core? speed?
Should we set up a VPN to connect offices or does someone have a better idea, if so what applications do we need?
I know windows networking pretty well, but Mac is totally new to me.Currently editing files from the server is really slow and files are usually pulled to the iMacs to do editing, burning DVDs from files on the server hardly ever works- they pull them local then burn the DVD and it works.
I would love to hear suggestions to help us get up and running.
Anyone know of a good website for server setup- Since there is no Domains in OSX that i know of, how can we secure the network? Links would be great.
Thanks in advance for any help and suggestions.

Well if your looking for performance. You could get a Promise VTrak E-Class RAID with 32TB of storage, later on you can add more chassis to the raid for more storage space. The raid can be expanded up to 160TB. (80 drive bays, each drive 2 TB)
Using fiber you could attach the raid to an xServer or Mac Pro (running mac os x server). You'll probable want at least 8 or 16 GB of ram on the server.
The server can run a copy of final cut server. Witch makes it easer to work as a group. Mac OS X server, when properly configured, can also be used to create a VPN between both locations.
Final Cut Server will let editors check in/out specific parts of the documentaries. So the project lives on the server; instead of scattered over every ones computers. Part of this is you can pull down thumb nails versions of the video to work off of. Only when you do the final render do you download the HD version of the video.
If you want even better performance on the editing stations. you could also upgrade to Mac Pros. Mac Pros have upgrade slots witch you can use to add fiber networking. You could also use the upgrade slots to add a black magic real time HD capture card.
Or if you want to keep the imacs. you might want to hook the server to a switch by fiber, and have the imacs connected to the same switch by 1000-T
If you call apple i'm sure they'd be happy to help you figure this all out.
for info on Promise: http://www.promise.com/apple/
for mor info on final cut server: http://www.apple.com/finalcutserver/

Someone who have advice for a folio production in many languages

I'm sitting right now in the planning stages for dps which will be published in at least 18 languages.
Thinking now of a multi-folio viewer where there is a folio for each language. Does anyone have a better solution?
Does anyone have any advice? maybee examples of other dps in many languages? We have a Professional Edition.
Are grateful for all tips and advice
/Ake

This has come up a few times before. You can use the filter feature of DPS to apply a language to each of your different folios, and then use the filter UI in the app (or via a custom store/library) to restrict the list of issues to just the language the reader cares about.
Neil

Advice on trading car in

Hello all, I have a question.. well more like I would like some opinions on my current situation. My fiance and I currently have a 2015 Hyundai Veloster Turbo with 10k miles on it. We used to lease a 2013 Honda Accord, but last year we decided we wanted a new and different car without the Accord's lease being done. So we tacked on negative equity (about $11,000.. yes it was a stupid decision but now we are stuck with it) So the total of the Veloster came out ot be 36k (value of the car is like 24k when we bought it brand new). Right now we owe 28k left on it. We pay $485 a month for a 6 year lease with $3,000 down. Well, here is the thing. My fiance wants to try and trade in the Veloster to a dealership to get a lease for 3 years. Where they'd tack on the negative equity ontop of the payment for the lease and make it around the same we are currently paying a month ($485). Let's say the lease itself is $200 a month, well then they'd add the negative equity to that so we'd pay it off by 3 years (something like that). But at the end of the lease we'd have no car and would have to buy another one all over again. After 3 years we'd have paid about 17k, then if we were to get a new car around 16k it'd add up to about 36k (inlcuding our 3,000 down when we bought the Veloster) altogether for a (not as nice a car as the Veloster) in the end. I say we keep the Veloster, and after 3 years of paying $485 a month there will be only 11k left and then we'd have it paid off in 2 years and own the car with no more payments. He says he wants to get out of debt as soon as possible. But if we lease a car and then buy another one we'd still be making payments and will be in debt. Any advice? I just want other peoples unbiased opinions. I appreciate it greatly.

Dystamine wrote:
Hello all, I have a question.. well more like I would like some opinions on my current situation. My fiance and I currently have a 2015 Hyundai Veloster Turbo with 10k miles on it. We used to lease a 2013 Honda Accord, but last year we decided we wanted a new and different car without the Accord's lease being done. So we tacked on negative equity (about $11,000.. yes it was a stupid decision but now we are stuck with it) So the total of the Veloster came out ot be 36k (value of the car is like 24k when we bought it brand new). Right now we owe 28k left on it. We pay $485 a month for a 6 year lease with $3,000 down. Well, here is the thing. My fiance wants to try and trade in the Veloster to a dealership to get a lease for 3 years. Where they'd tack on the negative equity ontop of the payment for the lease and make it around the same we are currently paying a month ($485). Let's say the lease itself is $200 a month, well then they'd add the negative equity to that so we'd pay it off by 3 years (something like that). But at the end of the lease we'd have no car and would have to buy another one all over again. After 3 years we'd have paid about 17k, then if we were to get a new car around 16k it'd add up to about 36k (inlcuding our 3,000 down when we bought the Veloster) altogether for a (not as nice a car as the Veloster) in the end. I say we keep the Veloster, and after 3 years of paying $485 a month there will be only 11k left and then we'd have it paid off in 2 years and own the car with no more payments. He says he wants to get out of debt as soon as possible. But if we lease a car and then buy another one we'd still be making payments and will be in debt. Any advice? I just want other peoples unbiased opinions. I appreciate it greatly. ^^^He doesn't understand how debt works if his suggestion is to trade this upside down vehicle in - again. If I understand correctly, you are currently financing the Veloster, right? Not leasing it? If he wants to get out of debt, then build up your savings and pay down the neg equity on the current vehicle or better yet, pay the car off and keep it a while to enjoy no payments at all. Note: It sounds like he may be saying he can't afford the payment any longer. If you find out that is what is going on, then rework your budget. You might need to sell it and pay off the neg equity and start over with another vehicle. But don't trade - every trade hurts you when you owe money on the vehicle. Each trade builds up debt - it doesn't get rid of debt.

Advice on Navigation Car Kits

Hi All,
i'd like to hear from you that have seen or used both the Magellan & TomTom Car Kits Please.
Are they much the same or is one far better unit than the other?
I guess all i'd like it to do is be able to charge the battery, have a good speaker & good GPS signal.
I can't really think of any other feature i may need? never having a GPS before
The iTunes App that'll be used i have yet to buy but i'm guessing it'll be the MetroView Australia
it seems good value at $25:00, the TomTom is at $80: the Navigon is at $90: ATM.
So the MVA is a no brainer if u live in the land of Oz that is.

I've owned the Magellan kit and played with the TomTom kit and the TomTom kit is definitely superior. My biggest complaint with the Magellan was the built in speaker didn't shut off automatically when you had the cradle connected to an aux jack. You had to turn the sound down on the speaker with a very tiny dial on the side of the unit. The TomTom is a much more intelligent unit in this regard.
I also didn't like the fact that on the Magellan the button to answer the speakerphone was on the backside of the unit and was difficult to locate when you were driving which pretty much negated the advantages of "hands free" for your car. A plus for the Magellan though is that if you have a case on your phone it is adjustable to fit. It's pretty clever the way they handle that. The TomTom kit is designed for a bare phone. The hands free on the TomTom kit works via bluetooth and is definitely better quality.
You don't mention if you have a 3 series or 4 series phone. If you have an iPhone 4 you'll have a problem with the TomTom but I believe they just released a (free?) adaptor for it that will work with the new phone. Other folks on the web had also come up with their own fixes for that as well. The TomTom comes with a windshield mount but I believe ProClip is selling a custom TomTom kit with a standard 4 hole mount plate in case you already have a mounting system in your vehicle. www.proclipusa.com for info.
Personally, I don't think either one is a necessary solution. The GPS in my iPhone 3GS was good enough on its own and the GPS in my iPhone4 is excellent. I'm using a Blueant S4 hands free unit on the visor which is working perfectly and is 100% hands free with total voice command operation with a 3GS or 4. I went with an adjustable Cradle from ProClip for my iPhone 4 that has a passthrough connector and I've attached a cable to the cradle that includes a USB charger plugged into a lighter socket adaptor and a stereo connector plugged into the aux jack on my car stereo. Incoming calls automatically shut down the sound to the radio and route the call out to the bluetooth. The Blueant S4 supports A2DP audio over bluetooth so you can hear your turn-by-turn GPS commands via the Blueant or over the car stereo via Aux input in my case.
Hope that helps you out!
James
P.S. The iphone dock cable that gives you usb and audio out via mini-din jack can be found on ebay.

Requesting Advice for Better Multimedia Production Preformance

As you can see, I have the low-end Northwood Pentium 4C 2.4GHz processor in my 865PE. I'm doing a lot of digital video conversions and need advice on how to speed up some of the process. I am only a hobbiest, not a professional, and don't have big bucks for the latest and greatest. I was considering the following choices:
1. Upgrade the CPU to a Prescott 3.4GHz (maybe the biggest bang for the buck?)
2. Add another gig of dual channel memory (or going for more preformance type memory)
3. Setting up a RAID 0 Array with two of my hard drives (makes me nervous, when one drive goes down, all data is lost)
4. Save my upgrade dollars and look at 925X/915 Boards
5. Look at AMD alternatives
Thank you in advance for your thoughts...
Marshall

Danny,
Thanks for the information. The future does sound exciting!! I'm certain over time the pricing on this stuff will go down but right now I would be looking at the following expenses for this solution:
New 955X Board $219(ASUS) $299(MSI)
Pentium D 820 (2.8GHz) $241
New DDRII Memory $200
PCI Express 9600xt AIW $182
Estimate of Upgrade Costs: $842 to $922
Being able to encode and transcode digital video a lot faster, priceless....
Ok, I know I would be giving up a much faster dual core processor, SATA II, DDR2 (faster?) and PCI Express (faster?), but wouldn't I get some gradification with just a CPU upgrade which is 1/4 the cost of the upgrade?
Pentium® 4 Prescott 3.2GHz 800MHzFSB Socket 478 about $200.
Which do you feel gives the best price/performance ratio.

Any advice about my car loan?

I asked this in the auo loan thread but no one is answering me there. We had a repo in 2013. We bought a car in Oct 14 and got a terrible deal. Our interest rate is 10.25%. We have a 72 month loan and our monthly payment is $386. Right now we owe $19,000 on the loan and Kelly Blue book says its worth about $15,000. I don't think our credit has improved much since we bought the car. Maybe a few points. We haven't started trying to address our score until very recently. What's the best way to handle this? With our budget, after bills and groceries - we could probably pay around $300 a month on top of our regular payment most months. Should we do that for a year and then try to refinance? Is there any other option I'm not thinking of? I know Dave Ramsey types would say dump it and get a beater but we don't have any cash lying around for a car so we're just going to get up with a terrible interest rate - and no down payment. So I don't feel like there's enough of a "pay-off" for the sacrifice.

It can get tough when you're dealing with negative equity. Different banks use different lending guidelines when it comes to determining how much they are willing to lend in the first place for any specific vehicle, and the amount they will lend you will also depend on your credit. So even if you applied to refinance right now, there's no guarantee that the bank/lender you applied with would be willing to lend the amount you need to refinance. Basically, some lenders don't want to risk giving you a $19K loan on a car that's only worth $15K or less. You know that, though. I work in auto finance, so I always recommend to people in your situation to pay as MUCH as you possibly can to close the gap on what you owe vs. what you think the car is worth. Call around to several different banks and give them the VIN and the mileage and ask how much they might lend on it in order for you to figure out which lenders are more generous for what they're willing to finance for vehicles. 10% is definitely not horrible for a 72 month loan. I have people calling me to try to refinance 17%-25% on a regular basis. Also, make sure your overpayments go to principle if possible. I wouldn't recommend applying to refinance until you know the amount you owe is where it needs to be so you avoid unnecessary credit pulls and hurt your credit further. Another option would be to trade it in and use the same guidelines to find a bank willing to allow the negative equity to be rolled into the new purchase. But that doesn't solve anything except HOPEFULLY getting a lower APR if you buy a newer car or if your credit has improved since purchasing the last one. You're better off to try to just pay down the one you have if it's still running fine. Why take on more debt if the car works?

Advice needed for advancing production work.

Ok Dear Forum Users,
Am need to get myself out of some Financial situations, where I owe some people.
Now I need to go commericial hunting, I consider myself a fairly good editor (still need to learn some other stuff though).
I don't know how to use Illustrator or Photoshop, which I think I will need to know, if am going to get commericials done and stuff like that.
I know before I get the business am going to need to study and practice more, so that I will be able to execute these jobs professionally.
So am seeking the guidance and assistance of my fellow forum users.
I also not in a financial position to purchase much books and tutorials.
Am using a Canon T3i and a Macbook pro 15.4inch 8gb ram.

you're trying to do something thats inherently very expensive to do ( tools you need to work ).
for example. if you want to shoot stuff you need to either own or rent the tools to do that.. and it is very expensive on the pro level.
to edit is the same. even more so really.. as the machines and programs etc to edit pro stuff is very expensive.
but
and this is a big BUT ...
you can also rent that stuff depending on situation you are in.. or you can 'borrow, beg , etc ' to do what you need to do in order to satisfy a client's needs.
this gets into the " client " area of the business.. where if you want to monetize your " talent" you need a client to pay for your time etc.
If you want to learn it before you have the talent to offer client..you have to absorb the cost of that education etc... until you save enough to offer that client your own special service and talent.
In other words, work as an editing assistant etc and get experience and save your money to go off on your own ..if you know what I mean ?
Sometimes schools help to do this when you're young... but you will still need the equipment ( tools ) at the end of your education to supply the product to clients...
no matter what you do or how you look at it.. this is a very expensive business to be in... to give clients what they need.
It also demands that what you USE FOR PROGRAMS give a product that is acceptable ( hence this forum helps ADOBE develop a suite of products designed to help

Looking for some advice on my first product

hello there just bought myself the new SB Surround 5. for my new laptop . im lookking to do a bit of basic music recording but i have a new mic and im wondering if i need a mic pre amp for this ? most of the recording will be done by mic also when i install my software i can only get a few of the programs to work this is not essential as i have my own program for recording but its quite annoing. any tips would be great but the mic is my main prob as im not getting good results so im figuring a pre amp is needed?cheers

Have you checked through the Windows Control Panel, the Sounds and Audio Devices tab...there are volume sliders for "line in" and "microphone. Perhaps by raising one of these, you may solve the low input level. I don't think you need to worry about the failed software if you are not using them anyway, although I wonder "why" they failed to load and function. The mic in should give you a better impedance match to the microphone, and to go back to the Windows Control Panel, the Sounds and Audio Device tab, under Audio or Voice recording, shows a microphone level slider and depending on the hardware, a +20db boost for the mic level. The problem you might have is that Creative (and other companies) issue or activate different features on their cards depending upon price. I seem to recall having that feature on an old Gateway laptop that used some inexpensi've built in sound chip, so I would not expect it to be an expensi've feature.
Hope this is of some help.
Good Luck

I need advice on which Adobe product to buy?!

Hi,
I have been given the task of creating flyers promoting our European Road Freight services. I am looking for the best programme to support this task.
Essentially, what I am after is cropped images of European Countries, ie flag maps which I can super impose on a European map background, etc.
Any kind advise, hints and tips would be super, thanks!

If you are on a budget, only buy what you can afford. You may want the larger screen to see the photos better. Also, the 15" comes with the option of a glossy screen, a high-resolution glossy screen or a high resolution anti-glare screen. The 13" only comes in glossy.

Need advice on a car adapter for SGPT112US/S

I'm really surprised to think that Sony hasn't provided a USB adapter for this tablet. Seems a simple thing to do, in view of the fact that it is so basic and a NECESSITY! Please provide me with the specs (like voltage output requirements) so I can buy an aftermarket one. It appears that the 5v USB output on my computer is insufficient to do the job either. I saw that an inverter for the ac adapter was mentioned, but I think thats not what I would want.

I find it interesting that Sony would offer a mobile device dependent solely on household current. No, I think the word rediculous is more appropriate. So, I can use the GPS on the road, as long as the drive is no longer than 8 hours, or less, based on the fact that the battery really won't last as long as it was stated in the marketing literature. Come on Sony! All the development costs to build the tablet, then get chintzy on such a cheap thing to make. At least tell me what the input voltage should be so I can buy something compatible. This is BS

Which Products

Hi
I am looking to replace my aging Netgear products.
What I am looking for is some advice on which Linksys product I require.
The scenario is I require a wirless N router which will be located in the living room this giving the internet connection.
I then need to connect a PC and a network printer both of these a located in the same room but upstairs some distance from the wireless router.
What I would like is to know which product will be best suited to contact to the wireless router downstairs, but this is where I think it may get a it messy I need this to connect wirelessly to the router.
Kind Regards

Thanks for this
but what about the network MFP device I have.

IS CREATIVE MAKING A CAR ADAPTER FOR ZEN MICRO LIKE APPLE MADE FOR iP

Does anybody know if they will create a similar product?

Apple makes no such thing really (that I know of). I believe Belkin makes a lot of their car products as well. The closest is the iTrip.
For something that plugs in like a standard headphone jack, you need a way into your CD player. be it if your head-unit has RCA jacks, a standard headphone-in, a line-in, or anyother hook-up. If not, you have to find a way in through a third-party box.
I know for Honda Accords, SoundGate makes such a product.
If nothing can be found for your vehicle you will need a tape->CD adapter or an FM modulator.
For the tape option, you need a tape player in the car. The quality will not exceed tape quality.
For the FM option, you can get a stand alone (just a little broadcaster that you tune too on your radio) or an inline (plugs into your antenae; you still tune in but it has better quality).
Hope that helps!

Seeking alternative advice for possible HD failure...

My poor PB is just 4 months old and I'm not sure how, but I think the HD decided to quite (it clicks/whirs/clacks in ways similar to my previous notebook computer shortly before it quit).
I cannot access anything on the HD itself, but can get to disk utility by way of the installation CD. When I try to run the utility I am not allowed to verify disk permissions or verify disk. When I try to verify, it says failure, could not unmount disk.
If I try to repair disk permissions or repair disk, the computer starts the process, but just clicks and whirs FOREVER. It never actually does anything...
the S.M.A.R.T. status shows verified, which should indicate the HD is ok (I assume).
I need my computer immediately... what would be some advice for taking care of my problem? My current location is TOO FAR from an Apple Store to take it for repairs. Anything I can do on my own to solve this?
I haven't tried it yet, (a bit afraid to) but I have considered erasing the disk. The file losses would be minimal, but if there is another route for solving this issue, I would rather go that way.
Thank you for any and all advice you have!!!
BeckyJ

Welcome to Apple Discussions, BeckyJ.
I think your PowerBook's hard drive is failing and there isn't really much you can do except replace the drive. Normally Apple will replace the drive under warranty - either sent in or at an Apple Authorised Service Provider.
However as you need the computer immediately and don't wish to go via the warranty replacement route, then the only option available is to source a new drive (at your own expense) and replace the drive yourself. Installation instructions are available here. I do need to warn you that the process is not easy for anyone unfamiliar with working on the insides of a notebook computer and will invalidate the warranty.
15" 1.25GHz/12" 1GHz PBs, PPC Mac minis, 12" iBooks G3/G4, Mac OS X (10.4.5) Cube, TAMs, iPods 2G/4G, iPs, AEBS, AX

Always Have to Re-pair iPhone w/ Bluetooth Car Receiver

Just got a new head unit (Pioneer DEH 7900 BT) and I'm having some trouble getting the iPhone's Bluetooth pairing to work. I can pair the iPhone and head unit through Settings > General > Bluetooth and everything is OK -- can place and receive calls. When I get out of the car and return, the pairing seems to be lost. The iPhone still says it's paired, but the head unit doesn't recognize anything. If I unpair and re-pair from the iPhone, we're OK again. Is this normal operation? A problem with the iPhone or the head unit? Anyone have a similar experience?

I searched the Pioneer website and found the below, i think it applies to all pioneer head units. Does any one know what profiles the iPhone has?
from http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Support/Knowledgebase
Knowledgebase: Car Product - CD/Cassette Receiver
Bluetooth Profile compatibility for the DEH-P9800BT or the DEH-P980BT?
What profiles are compatible with my bluetooth device?
In order to use Bluetooth wireless technology, devices must be able to interpret certain profiles.
This unit is compatible with the following profiles.
1. GAP (Generic Access Profile)
2. SDP (Service Discovery Protocol)
3. OPP (Object Push Profile)
4. HSP (Head Set Profile)
5. HFP (Hands Free Profile)
This unit can control a Bluetooth audio player via A2DP or AVRCP profile. Bluetooth audio players (or Bluetooth adapters) compatible with those profiles can be connected to this unit.
1. A2DP profile (Advanced Audio Distribution Profile): Only playing back songs on your audio player is possible.
2. AVRCP profile (Audio/Video Remote Control Profile): Playing back, pausing, selecting songs, etc., are possible.
Attachments: There are no attachments for this solution.

Advice on In Car Products

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