Advice on late dusk shot with moving light

Once a year, for two days, the Split Rock lighthouse in MN lights up its lens. A bunch of photographers are there for the event.
The light comes on during dusk. A bit later than dusk, actually, so there is not a whole lot of light. The beam moves in a 360 pano.
I am using a Canon 40D, and because of the low light situation, I cranked the ISO up to 800, which introduces noise, especially at night, with longer shutter speeds.
I shot the scene with the light moving around, and used the continuous mode when the light came to face the lens, so as to capture the reflection off of the water.
I wasn't thinking this at the time, but I probably could have taken multiple shots of the light as it passed in front of the lens, then hopefully found several of them, then stacked the images to reduce noise.
What I'd like to do is lower the noise in these kinds of shots.
But, with a moving light source, I'm not sure what is the better way to do that.
Could you please suggest some ways to accomplish this task?
Thanks.
Al

> It stinks and it has lots of noise in low light levels ISO 800 is just impossible if you haven't notice then it speaks of why you can't see the obvious.
<br />
<br />Thank you, Wade - for yet another moronic comment.
<br />
<br />While the D3 is
<br />b marginally
<br />better at ISO 800 vs the 1Ds II, if one is "impossible" at ISO 800, so is the other. Hard to find a direct comparison, but here's some select screen shot samples from DPReview.
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=11bisg2BQ69RlUYLATnmi1a6dg6a8s0" /></a>
<img alt="Picture hosted by Pixentral" src="http://www.pixentral.com/hosted/11bisg2BQ69RlUYLATnmi1a6dg6a8s0_thumb.jpg" border="0" />
<br />
<br />Yep, at first glance the D3 looks
<br />i slightly
<br />better but you have to realize a couple of things.
<br />
<br />First, the D3 statue portion (blue channel) is
<br />i softer
<br /> compared to the 1DsII. (my guess is it has stronger noise reduction employed than the 1DsII) You can't have overall in-camera noise reduction which also doesn't affect image sharpness. The noise in the 1DsII is "sharper" - but so is the image. A couple of points of Gaussian blur on the 1DsII ... or sharpening on the D3 would make the tiny noise difference even tinier.
<br />
<br />Secondly, looking at the grey patch on the 1DsII, notice that the noise is mostly in the form of color noise which extremely easy to get rid of - so much so that I never have to move the sliders in ACR/Lightroom off the default setting of 25. It's in the RAW image, but because of the default reduction in ACR, color noise is non-existant on either of my 1DsII bodies - even at ISO 1600. (Luminance noise has a greater impact on image sharpness and is much harder to get rid of - it can quickly create utter mush of an image if not used with care.)
<br />
<br />Third, there's a huge difference between pixel-peeping at 100% + views and real-world usability. Real-world usability is all that matters.
<br />
<br />There's no question that D3 is the undisputed champ when it comes to high ISO performance. However, that doesn't even
<br />b begin
<br />to start happening until ISO 1600.
<br />
<br />I appreciate that you're a mere newbie in this brave new world of digital but please ... stop proving you don't have a clue.
<br />
<br />I appreciate the info, Peter. Thanks!
<br />
<br />-phil

Similar Messages

  • Trouble with low light action shots on 70d

    I just went from a T3i to a 70D. I seem to have trouble with action shots in low light situations, any suggestions on setting...
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    "I just went from a T3i to a 70D"
    ... and didn't upgrade your lens inventory?  Although the 70D will be better in most cases compared to a Rebel T3i, it is the lens.  It is always the lens.
    EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
    EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
    Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

  • I HAVE LOGGED IN. I GET BLUE SCREEN WITH MOVING TITLES. WHAT DO I CLICK TO GET PAY SLIP ADVICE

    I HAVE LOGGED IN. I GET BLUE SCREEN WITH MOVING TITLES. WHAT DO I CLICK TO GET PAY SLIP ADVICE

    This is what happens. My wife gets a fortnightly pay slip sent  to one our
    emails. It says that to see the speciific details it is necessaty to click
    on a pdf icon. But it also says that to utilise this option it is necessary
    to download Adobe Reader and it has a link. So afterr you have gone through
    the whole procedure to download Adobe Reader you then click on that icon
    againn now secure in the knowledge that you are  registered with Adobe
    Reader ot have succesfully doiwnloade it at any rate. But when you click on
    the icon up comes blue screen over which roam the words  "Music" "Films"
    etc and there is a toolbar that appears to be suited to a media function
    -play buytton etc.
    What I want is something which says word to the effect click on this and
    your pay details will appear/.
    Regards, Geoff

  • Have a late 2006 iMac with new Ram installed in late 2011 . I am currently running Mountain lion. Did/ hit something while half asleep and was asked for my recovery password didn't know it.Not sure what i did after that but wont boot just searches,

    I have a late 2006 iMac with new Ram installed in late 2011or early2012 . I am currently running lion. Did/ hit something while half asleep and was asked for my recovery password, I didn't know it & not sure what I did after that but it wont boot up just searches with a light grey whit -ish screen. Cant get it to clear. Any advice?
    Charlies Secret Angel-

    Try to boot in Safe mode, see if you are able: Hold down shift and then power on. For wireless keyboards, hold down shift after the chime.
    Safe Boot
    Resolve startup issues and perform disk maintenance with Disk

  • Problem with non  lighting keyboard MB Air

    Hi... I have a MB Air 11,model A1370,late 2010. His keyboard is NOT lighting. Can i replace with other lighting keyboard and from which model ?

    It is not possible. Or I should rather say it is completely impractical.
    Your model does not have the requisite electrical connections present on the main board to support the lighted keyboard. As well, the hardware contains no profile to make the OS aware and able to control it.
    The least expensive solution is to sell your device, and buy one equipped as you desire.

  • Update: Video - Canon 6D turns itself off after a few shots with fully charged battery

    Update: I uploaded my video to youtube, please comment:
    http://youtu.be/3PNLUYd8g7A
    TIA and pardon me for my English.
    I posted this originally at another forum, and somebody suggested me to post it here as well, to get more help.
    Long story short, I purchased a brand new Canon 6D from B&H on Oct 24th, 2013. From early december, the camera starts to shut itself off randomly and displaying empty battery. I found the camera constantly shuts itself off after 20 - 100 continuous shots with a FULLY charged battery (right off charger, showing 8.23V using multimeter, and showing 98% in battery info).
    The camera will just turn itself off in the middle of shooting, showing empty battery int the shoulder window. The solution is simple, open the battery door, then close it again, no need even to pull the battery.
    So, I contacted Canon support, sent the camera to the VA service facility, waiting for it be repaired. As an engineer myself, I understand things fail, and I thought this is such an easy issue to reproduce, anybody should be able to repro it.
    Couple of days later, I received a phone call to send my accessories in, no problem, debugging needs more info, that's normal. I sent my lens and stuff in. I unfortunately had to bear the cruel fact that I don't have a decent camera for the holiday, though I have a backup.
    After a long wait, on 12/28the, the accessories were delivered at 9:35am. At 10am, they called me, they were sending the camera back. No issue at all. I was like, have you tested AT ALL? They didn't care, sending the camera back regardless. 
    I received the camera on Jan 2nd, and saw the same issue on that day. Of course, it was NOT fixed at all.
    I googled really hard, somebody said he had similar issue but it was a defective battery, so I got a brand new Canon battery, unfortunately, the same issue pops up again.
    Ok, the only choice for me is to send it back again.  But this time I am totally amazed by Canon.
    I sent the camera in again with my lens and battery. Also, a video showing the issue on a standalone CF card (I know 6D does not take CF, just to put the video on it).
    Couples of days later, they called asking for accessories, I was like, what accessories, I don't have any more.
    Then the camera sit in their facility for a few days for nothing. All of sudden I received a phone call on Monday morning, said it is ready. The camera has no issue at all.
    I called, asked whether they have watched the video, they told me two technicians, including a senior one, was not able to upload the video to the computer. I was like, what the hell? why the heck you need to upload it to the computer, find a card reader, plug the card in, double click, how simple is that?
    I talked to the service manager over the phone, he told me that there is nothing he could do, if their technician said so. They have decided to send my camera back, NOT fixed, again. I esclated the issue again, but haven't heard anything back yet.
    Honestly, I am totally pissed, how stupid can they be? I included a letter with detailed steps on how to reproduce this issue. As an engineer myself, I know how easy to reproduce this issue. But what shocked me is that they don't even know or they didn't even bother to watch the video. In the same letter, I asked/begged them to contact me if they cannot reproduce the issue instead of just sending it back unfixed.
    Guys, any other ways to get their attention? I already filed a BBB complaint. For a brand new camera of 3 months old, it has been in Canon's repair shop for almost a month. Leave to say that I missed the most importand holiday season in the year. This is simply not acceptable.

    "The camera usually shuts itself off after 20-100 continuous shot, ..."
    By this you mean your are in continuous drive? You just hold the shutter release down until it stops shooting?
    "... the shoulder LCD shows a ..."
    What is the "shoulder" LCD?
    Sorry for the extra questions but I am trying to understand exactly what you are going through and why Canon said it is OK.
    Canon did not say it was all right if it is not.
    You are, also saying, if you use the camera, just for a single snap shot, say several in a session, it is OK? Right?
    It only shuts down when on continuous drive or video?
    EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
    EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
    Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

  • XML files from CR2 files shot with Canon 7D do not save???

    I opened a bunch of images shot with a Canon 7D through the Raw Processor in Bridge CS5. AFter making adjustments I clicked the "Done" button thinking the XML files would be upgraded. Nothing happens. What am I doing wrong. With all my other files this works perfectly.

    everyone that is having this problem I think I have solved it.
    Short quick answer so you dont have to read further. Check your date/time setting on your camera, it's probably wrong.
    Longer version:
    I too have a Canon 7D and the other day I had taken some pictures of my son with santa and was experiencing the same problem.  I could edit in camera raw, but the changes would not save. I would not get the little icon next to the image either.Every other image worked fine except for the ones I took that day.  I was chalking it up to maybe a bad import of the images and maybe somethign was corrupting. but I was still able to open them and edit and save psd's so I wasnt too worried yet.
    Today we went out and took some images of holiday lights and I came home downloaded the images and the same issue happened again. I went back to the santa pictures and I could edit them and the changes were saving now. So I googled and came across this post. Once I saw you too were having the same problem but it went away the next day, and another person was only having a issue with one camera I figured it had to be a setting in the camera.
    And since the problem goes away with time I decided to check my time on my camera and it was set to 12/22 (today is 12/21). So I corrected the time took a test shot and downloaded it to the computer and it works perfectly again.
    Hope this helps!
    Ponno

  • Washed out pictures during night with LED lighting

    Few nights back i was into a pub with my friend, we planned to capture memory with a picture. Then i set up my cam with flash light (on and auto-swapped for few times), when taking pictures got a washed out (a white, light coloured) image. Tried few times as this captured few good shots during day light (without LED), and in night with adequate lighting (flash kept off) but every time got the same poor image.
    Finally had to use black burry 2.0 cam, which gave better image than this 5.0 cam.
    Could someone help me to resolve this, do i need to contact the service centre to change any parts or change software. As of now i use all updated (OS and i-tunes), i just update what ever is updated.

    PIjoe : has got answer for me, and feel it was my stupidity of protecting mobile.
    "I had the same problem with occasional dark pictures... i noticed this only happens when I the flash is used... because when the flash is off pictures do come out ok...
    and i discovered (embarrased on my stupidity), it seems i still havent removed the plastic protector at the back of the iPhone4. it appears the plastic diffuses the light from the flash and affects picture output drastically.
    I hope this helps. "
    The above was her answer to other forum, Thanks..

  • Advice on connecting external drive with all of my media

    My old computer stopped working and I took out the drive that contained all of my photos and videos that I use with LR and I am now using the drive as a bare bones drive connected to a docking station to another Mac.
    The Lightroom folder was on another drive of the broken computer, so I copied that entire folder to the desktop of the new Mac. Everything seemed to open on its own when I opened Lightroom on the new Mac.
    I want to add LOTS of new photos to LR, and I just want to check to make sure that this workflow will not cause any problems before I begin.
    1. I plan to just copy new photos to the bare bones drive in the docking station and add keywords to them in LR, and when I'm done, eject the drive and place it into a protective case.
    2. The Lightroom folder containing the catalog is currently on my desktop, it was previously stored on the other Mac inside the Pictures folder. I might keep it on the desktop for now, though I might move it somewhere else later. Are there any issues with moving it around like this?
    Thanks.

    My old computer stopped working and I took out the drive that contained all of my photos and videos that I use with LR and I am now using the drive as a bare bones drive connected to a docking station to another Mac.
    The Lightroom folder was on another drive of the broken computer, so I copied that entire folder to the desktop of the new Mac. Everything seemed to open on its own when I opened Lightroom on the new Mac.
    I want to add LOTS of new photos to LR, and I just want to check to make sure that this workflow will not cause any problems before I begin.
    1. I plan to just copy new photos to the bare bones drive in the docking station and add keywords to them in LR, and when I'm done, eject the drive and place it into a protective case.
    2. The Lightroom folder containing the catalog is currently on my desktop, it was previously stored on the other Mac inside the Pictures folder. I might keep it on the desktop for now, though I might move it somewhere else later. Are there any issues with moving it around like this?
    Thanks.

  • Filter all photos with flash light ...

    Hi,
    how can I filter all photos that were made with a flash light?
    I only can find ISO or aperture options in the filter pane.
    Can I extend the filter pane by own filter options?
    Thanks
    Konrad

    The Filter Pane, at least in CS3, is limited as to how you can arrange your photos by the topics listed.
    If you want to list all the pictures you shot with flash you will have to use the Find function (ctrl F) and set the critera boexs to Flash, exists, and Fired.  Have not tired this but should work.
    You can save this as a collection if you want to refer to it again.

  • Can someone post a pic of a new iPad with no light bleeding

    If you have an iPad with no light bleeding can you post a pic. I don't believe they exist

    I have it but not horribly. I have resigned myself to wait until the mad rush for the iPad2 is over and see how they resolve the issue. Reminds me of the iPhone4 camera problem with white balance. Eventually they solved it. At that point I took mine (iPhone) back (several months later)and they still replaced it without questions. I am suspecting they will do the same with the iPads.

  • Hello , I have a shot with two lips kissing each other , how can I keep

    Hello , I have a shot with two lips kissing each other , how can I keep the lips red and turn the rest of the face into black ? I tried shaping but the result was negative because the shape was moving all teh time , I tried color correction but the face and lips`s color was similar so I couldn`t do it with that , is there any other way ? Thanks so much

    You're gonna have fun with this because the HSL qualifiers probably won't see much separation between the areas that you want to isolate. You could try combinations of turning off Hue, Saturation, or Luminance. See what you get.
    Otherwise you're into a roto. (Manually tracked and animated User Shape)
    jPo
    Message was edited by: JP Owens

  • De-graining footage shot with high gain

    I am trying to de-grain some footage that was shot with the gain inadvertently set to medium or high. The footage is a lock-down shot of a person speaking on a stage. Very little movement. It was shot in HDV at 1080i60 using a decent Sony 3-chipper. Once edited, it will be compressed for delivery on SD DVD. I understand that removing grain may soften the image, and that is probably acceptable.
    A couple questions:
    1. Is there a good solution (a filter, perhaps) within FCS 2 that I can use to "de-grain"?
    2. Is there a good solution outside FCS 2 that I can use to de-grain?
    Thanks for any help.

    So, if you were locked in a room with no internet access and only FCS2 on your computer (i.e. no 3rd party plug-ins), how would you try to reduce the noise? Would you superimpose a copy of the clip on V2 and apply some sort of filter/opacity trick?
    I was trapped in a room once with no internet access and had video that was shot in really low light. I duplicated the clip on V2 and used the 3-way color corrector to increase the white levels and saturation on each clip. It did the trick but I still had noise.

  • [Guide] Install and run Windows 7/8 from an external drive without using bootcamp (works for late 2012 iMacs with 3TB drive)

    This is a copy of a post from my blog, you can also Read it on my blog...
    Introduction
    After I received my new iMac with a 3 TB Fusion Drive, I was disappointed when I realized that Bootcamp was not running on this model and prevented me from installing Windows on it. I wanted to take advantage of the powerful iMac hardware to play games but I couldn't.
    There are a few ways of working around this limitation, but I found most of them quite complex and most of the time they required formatting the internal hard drive or repartitioning it and go for a brand new installation of Mac OS X. I was not comfortable with that.
    But there is another way, and that is to install Windows on an external hard drive, using either USB or Thunderbolt. Personally I used a Lacie Rugged 1 TB drive that has both USB3 and Thunderbolt connectors. Both work very well.
    This guide may interest you if:
    You have an internal hard drive of more than 2TB and you can't run bootcamp at all (like late 2012 iMacs with a 3TB drive)
    You have limited space or you don't want to dedicate disk space on your internal hard disk drive to a Windows installation
    What this guide will make you do:
    It will make you erase all your data from your external USB3/Thunderbolt hard drive
    It will make you install Windows on your external USB3/Thunderbolt hard drive
    It will make you install bootcamp drivers
    What this will not make you do:
    It will not make you modify anything on your internal Mac hard drive
    It will not make you use or install the bootcamp assistant
    It will not activate the Preference Pane for the default boot drive. You have to boot by pressing the ALT key to manually select your boot drive each tome you want to boot Windows.
    What you'll need
    An external hard drive with a USB3 and/or Thunderbolt connector. This drive will be formatted so ensure you saved your files before going further. You can use either an SSD drive or a classic hard drive.
    A Windows 7 or 8 install DVD or ISO (check whether to install 32 or 64 bits versions based on your Bootcamp drivers) and the corresponding Windows serial number.
    One of the following:
    Mac OS X with a Windows 7 or 8 Virtual Machine (use VMWare Fusion or Parallels Desktop for example. Note: VMWare Fusion seems to have some issues with Thunderbolt and USB3. Plug your drive to a USB2 enclosure or hub to work around this -it worked for me-, or use another VM software) → Read the important note below
    A PC running Windows 7 or 8 → Read the important note below
    Windows AIK (free) running on your Virtual Machine or on your PC, or just the imagex.exe file (the rest of the Windows AIK package is not needed)
    Download imagex.exe
    Download Windows AIK (this download and installation is not required if you have already downloaded imagex.exe)
    Bootcamp drivers for your Mac. You can get these either by running bootcamp from your Mac (Applications > Utilities > Bootcamp) or, if like me you have a 3TB drive and can't run bootcamp at all, use the direct download links here.
    A USB stick to store your bootcamp drivers
    IMPORTANT: If your Mac has a 64 bits processor, your Windows Virtual Machine on OSX, your Windows installation on your PC and your Windows DVD/ISO must also be in 64 bits!
    Step by Step guide
    Step 1: Get the install.wim file
    If you have a Windows ISO file:
    Mount the ISO
    If you're on OS X: double click on the ISO file
    If you're on on Windows 7: Use a software like Virtual Clone Drive (free)
    If you're on Windows 8: double click on the ISO file
    Open the mounted drive, then go to the "sources" folder and locate the "install.wim" file. Save this file to C:\wim\ on your Windows installation or virtual machine.
    If you have a Windows DVD: open the "sources" folder on the DVD and locate the "install.wim" file. Save this file to C:\wim\ on your Windows installation or virtual machine.
    IMPORTANT: If instead of a "install.wim" file, you have "install.esd", you can not continue this step by step guide. And an ESD file can not be converted into a WIM file. So you must get a version of the Windows installation DVD/ISO that has an install.wim file.
    Step 2: Clean, partition and format your external hard drive
    On your Windows installation or virtual machine, plug in your external hard drive (can be plugged using USB2, USB3 or Thunderbolt at this stage)
    Open the command prompt in administrator mode (cmd.exe). To run it in administrator mode, right click on cmd.exe > Run as admin.
    Type the following and hit enter to open the disk partitioner utility:
    diskpartType the following and hit enter to list your drives:
    list disk
    This will display a list of disks mounted on your computer or virtual machine. Make sure your drive is listed here before you continue.Identify the disk ID of your external hard drive. Replace # by your real external disk ID in the command below:
    select disk #Clean all partitions by typing the following (warning: this will erase all data from your external drive!):
    clean
    Create the boot parition by typing the following followed by the enter key:
    create partition primary size=350
    This will create a 350MB partition on your external driveFormat the partition in FAT32 by typing the following:
    format fs=fat32 quick
    Set this partition to active by typing:
    active
    Assign a letter to mount this partition. We will use letter B in our example. If B is already used on your PC, replace B by any other available letter:
    assign letter=b
    Windows will detect a new drive and probably display a pop-up. Ignore that.Create the Windows installation partition using all the remaining space available on the external drive by typing the following:
    create partition primary
    Format the new partition in NTFS:
    format fs=ntfs quick
    Assign a letter to mount this partition. We will use letter O in our example. If O is already used on your PC, replace O by any other available letter:
    assign letter=o
    Windows will detect a new drive and probably display a pop-up. Ignore that.Exit the disk partitioner utility by typing:
    exit
    Step 3: Deploy the Windows installation image
    Still using the command prompt in admin mode (you didn't close it, did you? ), locate the imagex.exe file mentioned in the "What you'll need" section and access its folder. In our example, we have put this file in C:\imagex\imagex.exe
    Type the following and hit enter (remember to replace o: with the letter you have chosen in the previous step):
    imagex.exe /apply C:\wim\install.wim 1 o:
    This will take some time. The Windows installation image is being deployed to your external driveOnce done, type the following to create the boot section (remember to replace o: and b: with the letters you've chosen in the previous step):
    o:\windows\system32\bcdboot o:\windows /f ALL /s b:
    If you get an error message saying that you can't run this program on your PC, then most probably you are running on a 32 bits installation of windows and you're trying to deploy a 64 bits install. This means you did not read the important notes in the beginning of this guide
    If you get an error message on the options that can be used with the BCDBOOT command, then it's because you're installing Windows 7, and the /f option is not supported. If that is the case, remove /f ALL from the command and retry.
    Step 4: Boot from your external drive and install Windows
    Plug in your external drive:
    If you've done all the previous steps from a Windows PC, unplug your external drive from your PC and plug it to your Mac, either on a USB3 or a Thunderbolt port.
    If you've done all the previous steps from your Mac using a Virtual Machine, ensure the external drive is plugged in to a USB3 or Thunderbolt port. Using USB2 should also work but you'll get very poor performance so I don't recommend doing that.
    Reboot your Mac and once the bootup sound is over, immediately press the ALT (option) key and release it only when the boot drives selection screen appears. If you did not get the boot drives selection screen, reboot and try again. The timing to press the ALT (option) key is quite short. It must not be too early or too late.
    On the boot selection screen, choose "Windows" using the arrow keys on your keyboard, then press enter.
    The Windows installation starts. Follow the on-screen instructions as normal. The installation program will restart your computer one or 2 times. Don't forget to press ALT (option) right after the bootup sound, and boot on Windows again each time to continue the installation.
    Step 5: Install bootcamp drivers
    Once the Windows installation is complete, plug in the USB stick where you stored the bootcamp drivers (see "what you'll need" section), open it and right click on "setup.exe" and select "Run as admin". Follow the on-screen instructions.If you have an error saying that you can't run this program on this PC, obviously you have installed a 32 bits version of Windows and the bootcamp drivers for your Mac are made for a 64 bits version. You have to restart the whole guide and make sure to get a 64 bits version of Windows this time!
    Once the bootcamp drivers are all installed, reboot and press ALT (option) after the bootup sound to boot on Windows again. And Voilà, you have Windows installed on your USB3/Thunderbolt drive running on your Mac.
    Now each time you want to boot on Windows, press and hold the ALT (option) key after the startup sound and select "Windows", then press Enter.

    Hi i'm trying to follow your guide, I installed windows 8 on bootcamp to do it planning to remove it after the operation is done, but i get stuck at part 3: every command i give to imagex i get a pop-up ftom windws asking how do I want to open this kind of file install.wim and imagex does nothing, what do i have to do to stop those pop-ups?

  • How do I take a screen shot with my iphone 5S?

    How do I take a screen shot with my iphone 5S?

    Press the "Home" button and the sleep/wake button at the same time to take a screen shot.

Maybe you are looking for