AGP Power Supply Socket

On the K7 Master-S model (MS-6341) version 1.1 motherboard, does the 4 pin connector from the system power supply need to be connected to the socket on the motherboard in front of the AGP slot labeled as "AGP Power Supply" ? I currently do NOT have it plugged in because there is NO documentation in the users manual as to what this socket is for.
Is this manditory or optional and if optional, is it dependant on what type of AGP card is used in the slot ?
Is this for providing extra power needs of some AGP video cards ?
I am using 4x "Powered by" ATI Radeon 7000 64mb DDR by PowerColor.
The reason I ask this is because video WILL work correctly when I keep bios setting to 1x/2x as opposed to 4x (video & system will lockup if BIOS set to 4x).
Thanks.

System composed of the following:
Circo Technology Corp. CC-268 ATX Aluminum Mid-Tower Case
MSI K7 Master-S MS-6341 version 1.1 motherboard
Bios version 1.5
Seagate SCSI 15,000RPM 18gb ultra160 drive
Plextor 40x12x40a CD-RW
Creative labs 5.1 Sound Blaster
Creative labs 2.1 slim 2600 multimedia speaker system
U. S. Robotics 56k Performance Pro Modem
ATI Radeon VE ddr 64mb TV&DV - by Power Color Video card
2 - Kingston 256mb/ecc/ddr - KVR266X72C25/256 memory - total 512mb ram
Viewsonic 19" - G90F-2 monitor - 18VIS .25mm 16x12 colmon tc099
2 - Directron Silencer 8mm ball bearing case fans - for hard drive
1 - PAPST Ultra-Quiet 8mm case fan type 8412NGL
Enermax EG365P-VE FMA 350 Watts PSU
Windows 2000 Professional patched service pack 3 all critical security patches and operating system patches applied.
IE6.0
Belkins 1000VA UPS W/SFTW - 6 Outlet
Artic Cool 2500 CPU cooler
Keytronic's E03601QUS201-C 104-key Win95 keyboard ps2
Palomino Athlon xp 1800+ processor
Logitech B69 Optical wheel mouse ps2/usb
Most recent version of 4 in 1 drivers applied, including AGP drivers.
Have flashed video card firmware per Power Color's instructions
Have applied latest drivers for Modem, soundcard & monitor INF file.
System is not overclocked - do not believe in it.
Using NTFS file system.
Let me know if I missed anything you might need.
I will supply you with exact driver & firmware versions if you need.
Also, I might mention, that as well as the locking up if BIOS set to 4x, on a very rare occasion I get no video upon cold boot - always works fine upon power off & reboot.
Thanks, again.

Similar Messages

NX6600GT (AGP) & power supply

Hello,
I bought a NX6600GT-VTD128 (AGP) (Europe). The sales package didn't include a power cord (cable). I can see in the instructions manual (general manual for all NX VGA cards) that only the NX6800 series sold with power cable, although the MSI global site have a photo of a power cable in the product specifications and also the sticker in the sales box, which provides the VGA specifications, is written: " NX6600GT, 128M DDR3, ... ,HDTV/VIVO, Power Cable" !!! Anyway, this is not a problem ( i will istall the VGA directly to the power supply, am i right?) but before i install the VGA i would like to know: I must connect the 4-pin connector with the power supply? I think that YES is the right answer, but i am curious, the 5900ZT & 5900XT which also have a power connector, do they need the extra power connection? You can also view the "note" at the site: The NX6800 series have a note:
"NOTE:
1. The supplied power cable must be attached to ensure the card worksproperly.
2. Always connect or disconnect the supplied power cable when the system power is off."
which the 6600GT doesn't have.
Some advice from a 6600GT owner about the right connection, would be desirable. Also, did you found a external power cable in your box?? (adapter, TV-out extended cable, HDTV/VIVO cable:OK)
Thank you

well you have to connnect it,a drive connector on the psu is fine

Lenovo Ideapad G580 - power supply socket

Hi there,
My laptop is 6 month old and I use it like a laptop, I mean that the power plug is quite often taken off and put back.
Couple of days ago, I couldn't put the plug back and realize there were couple of plastic pieces in the socket.
I took them out and it seems it was a plastic ring, probably on the inner part of the socket.
Now when I plug the power cable I can feel it's much more loose than it use to be.
Has anybody got the same issue? Does the Lenovo warranty take that in charge?
Thanks!

Dear BarbeRouge
Welcome to Lenovo Forums
Kindly be informed that this issue is not covered under warranty its physical abuse
Could you check nearest service center I think they will charge you to repair this issue
http://www.lenovo.com/contact/ae/en/
Thanks
Alaa
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Power Supply Socket

I newly bought an apple tv and it is great. But the connection socket between the power cable and the apple tv is very loose and easily disconneted. it is now the normal quality of apple. Any similar experience or I miss anything ?

I experienced the same thing. It felt like I had origninally connected it, but it was loose and pulled out easily. But, when I did it a second time, I simply pushed a little harder and it seemed to snap into place. I haven't had any problems since then. It might feel like it's going to break something. But, as long as you push straight in, it shouldn't. Mine works great now and I haven't had any further problems.

ATX vz µATX Power supply form factor.

There are two types of power supply (socket??) available in the market nowadays. They are ATX and µATX.
- How are they differing from each other?
- Are they interchangeable each other?
Say I have MSI785GM-E51 mother board which has ATX form factor while the power supply is µATX, can I use them both/powered the M3A785GM-LE/128M with those ATX power supply?
Or can I convert the µATX to be ATX form factor?

The motherboard mentioned is mATX not ATX 785GM E51. M=mATX (µATX). It's made to fit the smaller cases but can also be used in the larger mid-tower & full tower cases if that's what you have.
µATX PSU has a different size case and mounting dimensions to fit the small mini tower PC cases and also the smaller HTPC cases. Power connections are pretty much the same between the 2 but mATX generally don't have as many power plugs for HDD & ODD.
Due to physical dimensions and different mounting they are not interchangeable.
There are many variables involved in selecting a PSU beginning with what type the PC case itself requires. If you need suggestions on what to get we need to know what CPU, on-board or dedicated graphics you will use, how many HDD's.

Can I install a G3 Blue & White power supply unit in a G4 AGP?

I have a G3 and a G4. The G4s power supply unit (PSU) short circuited a while back and I got a G3 as a replacement. I've tried to find a replacement power supply unit for the G4 and have been using the G3 in its place. Sometimes they appear on ebay but I usually lose the auction. But the G3 has upgrade issues that involve spending money on it. It's a Blue and White 300 MHz Yosemite while the G4 is the Graphite AGP 400MHz Sawtooth. RAM isn't an issue, processing speed is, the G3 is harder to upgrade. Plus I can put up to 3 hard drives in the G4. 2 ATAs and a SCSI. the G3 only holds 1 ATA hard drive. With 2 SCSI bays.
Anyway I'm leaning towrds retiring the G3 and rebuilding the G4 starting with the PSU. And I've seen on auction sites that these units are compatible with both Macs, the Blue and White G3 and the AGP and PCI G4. It is essentially the same 240 watt unit made by Delta Electronics or ATX..
However as I spent part of the yesterday dismantleing and cleaning dust out the Sawtooth's innards, and removing the broken PSU, I also noticed on the G3 that the PSUs cables are slightly different. There is one cable that is connected to the start button. On the G4 this isn't the set up. The start button's cable is linked directly to the motherboard.
To get to the point. Is this cable arrangement a potential problem that I should avoid by not tinkering with it? Or can I ignore this and install the G3 PSU in my G4? I'm preceding with caution and will check back here later in the day.
Thanks.
G3 B&W 300MHz 6GB 512MB + iMac G3 400MHz 10GB 320MB Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Thanks, Grant
Interesting opinion.. and funny too.
On close inpsection of the fron panel you're right the cable is a hard drive cable, and without a number. Whereas the connector for the DVD and Zip drive are numbered P7 and P6.
And in the G4 there is a slot for where this old connector went, but there's nothing to connect, no pins. It's as if this slot was evolutionary rump on its spine end where the tail ended, that the G4 designers left in or else they used left over parts from the G3 to save money.. This early G4, introduced in 1999-2000 is one evolutionary step above the G3 which was discontinued in early 1999. The G4 front panel has a slim grey ribbon cable leading under the chassis directly to the motherboard, along witha thin wire and small pin connector leading from the speaker.
There's nothing like a beakdown to learn how to rebuild your PowerMac. And I think most of the repairs are DIY doable. It just takes a few good screwdrivers, a little know how, some patience and a lot of spare time. All that and the correct replacement parts, if you can find them.
So I've finished installing the G3 PSU in the G4. It fits perfectly in and amazingly all the cables were long enough, including the cable to the ATA hard drive bay P2 and P3. Hard drive is connected, RAM installed, ready to go. All I have to do is plug the power cable into a power strip socket and hope for the familiar whirr and chime and breatha sigh of relief. If nothing happens then it prolly means the motherboard is kaputt. Or that it isn't compatible with the G4 architecture and it's back in the G3. I'll let the board know what's happened tomorrow. I'm off to Slumberland. ZZZZZzzzzz. rob
G3 B&W 300MHz 6GB 512MB + iMac G3 400MHz 10GB 320MB Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Power supply fan dead - help? (400mhz AGP G4)

Hello!
Unfortunately, my PowerMac G4, a 400mhz, AGP Sawtooth model, has a dead fan.
Over the last few weeks, I've noticed that my G4 has been running quite hot. I figured it was due to the hot dorm room that it's being used in. Then, I noticed that when it booted up, it would occasionally make a vibrating, or rattling noise - I figured the fan was wobbling. Since air was comming out of the fan opening at the top, I didn't worry about it.
Today, I used the "Temperature Monitor" widget to check the temperature of my SMART Hard drive (the G4 itself is not sensed). It was 133 degrees!!! This is the bay on the back-right, just under the CPU fan. I looked at the fan again - not much airflow. I pulled out a flashlight and pointed it in, and the Fan that's inside the power supply unit is dead.
So, how can I fix it? It's far far too hot, so it's not usable until I can cool it off. The first idea I had was to take a particularly powerful desk fan, and make a paper "tube" that connects both to the G4 and back of the fan - so it'll pull the hot air out. Needless to say, this is not a good log-term plan as it's easy to fall apart and will have leaks, but it works for now. I realize you can buy power supplies, but for ~$100, it's far too much for the old G4.
Second idea: The fan is inside the "non-user servicable" power supply, but it's also next to the back of the G4 - right inside what appears to be a panel that holds the power supply in. At the very least, I'd like to make sure that the cable is attached and not loose, but I have to open the back. Is that possible or safe? If so, can I replace the fan?
My third idea was to attach an extra fan to the inside of the G4, on the outside of the power supply - pushing in. Unfortunately, the IDE cable from the DVD drive is in the way, and there's not much room for a fan. Plus, there's no fan power supply. Is it possible to convert an ATA power plug (there are 7!) to a fan-power supply? I'd require a small circuit and a lot of resistors, obviously! If so, what would I need to do to convert it?
Thanks a bunch,
-Dan
15" 1.67 Powerbook G4 (Jan 2005), 400 mhz AGP Sawtooth G4 Mac OS X (10.4.8) 4G Clickwheel and 5G Vid iPods, 2G iPod shuffle

Thanks!
Interesting, this "Piggy back power adapter" will allow me to plug the fan into one of the ATA/IDE cables? Or do you mean the extra port on the power supply? (it has one plug for the outlet>G4, then another to support something like a monitor or similar) The G4 has a DVD burner, but no ZIP drive, so this is quite do-able if it uses the ATA power.
When you say "lower rear", do you mean at the bottom? Below the power supply, to the right of the PCI slots? If so, this is the inflow for the CPU fan! I can understand mounting it outside the current outflow-vent for the dead power supply fan, although I'm not sure the best way to proceed with attaching the fan.
Another question: what tools and supplies will I need? I may need to remove the plastic cover on the back of the G4 - the one that is outside the power supply - as there's a gap between the gray plastic and metal chassis that lets air from outside the machine come in. The screws for this cover use a funky, hexagonal screwdriver. If I need to take this cover off, what kind of screwdriver will I need? Also, should the fan not include screws/etc, what's the best method to attach it? Glue?
Secondly, to cut a hole in the G4, will I need some variety of drill? I don't have one, so i'll have to borrow one... Since there's nothing in the ZIP slot, I can run a cable out through here (assuming it's long enough), and make a new bezel to keep the airflow inside intact.
Ah! One other (somewhat related) question: my USB 2 card includes a power adapter, for use when several un-powered devices (flash drives) are attached. It works just fine with a flash drive and a small media reader, but it's slow to sense the drives - I think it's low on power. Unfortunately, this power plug uses the same variety of plug as the floppy disk drives found on many win-boxes - of which the G4 possesses none. Is there an adapter/cable for this purpose?
Thanks, this is a HUGE help, I appreciate it.
-Dan

MSI FX5900 xt compatible with AGP 4x???!!! + Power Supply Questions

I wish to buy an FX 5900 XT, but i have AGP 4x motherboard is it compatible???
I have two HDDs, a CDRW, a DVD, P4 2.2 (400 FSB), 512 Mb RAMBUS and a CHIEFTEK 420W Power supply will it be substantial for a new FX 5900 XT???

Moan Guide
its explained in there

What power supply do I need for a dead AGP G4 with upgraded processor

I recently upgraded my 400Mhz G4 to a dual 500Mhz board and a bigger, faster HD. I also replaced the internal battery but now the Mac... she is dead. No power, no lights, no nothing.
Will I need an upgraded power supply for the new board, or is it just old and time for a replacement power supply.
I found this on Ebay... will it work?
"This 237W Astec power supply (Apple part# 614-0108) is a clean, working pull from a revision 2 Power Mac G4 AGP Graphics/Sawtooth series computer (e.g. 350/400/450/500 MHz single processor) and will also work perfectly in previous models as well. "
Thanks!
AGP G4, Dual 500, 768Mb RAM Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Hi,
The AGP Sawtooth Mac can be switched to an ATX PSU. Later models (Gigabit G4, Digital Audio, Quicksilver and later) have a different power supply and motherboard that passes 28 Volts DC from the power supply to a connector for the ADC port graphics card. (28 VDC is passed to the Graphics card ADC port to power Apple's ADC monitors, introduced in Summer 2000 MWNY.) A standard PC ATX Power Supply does not have 28V DC and will not be pin compatible with the Gigabit G4 and later G4 systems.
Here are some DIY web pages, if you are interested in doing this:
http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/systems/ATXG4_AGP_conversion/G4_AGP_to_ATX_casepg2.htm#next
http://www.amugsicilia.it/recensioni/sawtooth_ATX/index.html
http://bbs.xlr8yourmac.com/ubb/Forum27/HTML/000631.html
http://bbs.xlr8yourmac.com/ubb/Forum27/HTML/000639.html
http://strangedogs.proboards40.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread =1121532398
http://www.outofspec.com/frankenmac/wire.shtml
Regards,
Dave

Power supply for AGP graphics - 20 pin vs 22 pin?

So, the power supply on my G4 Sawtooth (dual 450) is about half dead. I looked online, figured out which part I needed, and actually found one on Ebay. It was kinda easy. Then I took it to my Aunt's house (she's a tech) to install, and lo and behold... I have a 22 pin connector on my motherboard. The power supply (that everything online pointed to as the correct part) is a 20 pin. So of course, that isn't going to work.
I checked out everything again last night and all over the place I see that the Sawtooth has a 20 pin connector. Mine is 22, I swear... what in the ****??? Why the discrepancy? And does anyone need a 237W power supply?
Thanks,
Brooke
12" PB 867, G4 Sawtooth D450, Indigo iBook Mac OS X (10.4.6)

Gigabit G4, Digital Audio, Quicksilver and later Macs have a different power supply and motherboard that passes 28 Volts DC from the power supply to a connector for the ADC port graphics card. 28 VDC is passed to the Graphics card ADC port to power Apple's ADC monitors.)
If you are not using a ADC monitor, you might could cut off the connector from your existing supply & the purchased supply & connect the 22-pin connector to the purchased supply.
Here's some links of power supply sellers.
We Love Macs http://www.welovemacs.com/apposu.html
HardCoreMac http://store.yahoo.com/hardcoremac/powersupplies.html
Not sure if the Apple Part #s are marked on your existing supply & purchased supply, but the links have the Apple Part#s for the various Mac models.
Cheers, Tom

Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
or just funning with the latest games.
What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
Well...Do we have your attention!?
If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
your PSU is trying to tell you something.
To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
become noisier as time goes by.
As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
APM (Advanced Power Management)
APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
modes.
ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
concerned about this feature.
Line-Conditioning Circuitry
A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
the most unreliable of home sockets.
EMI Filter
This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
PFCC
Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
Connectors
There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
3) Molex peripheral power connector
4) Floppy power connector
5) Serial ATA power connector
On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
Know What You Need
When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
worth looking into.
If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Modular Power Supplys:
The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

Quote
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W xD. Come on.
Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

Will this power supply be enought for a KM2M Combo-L Machine

Will the following work with a 145 Watt Power supply?
Basically I've got an Enlight Case I would like to use but it only has a 145 Watt Power supply.
- MSI Motherboard for AMD processors Model KM2M Combo-L
Chipset:VIA® ProSavageDDR KM266
FSB:200/266MHz
RAM:Supports four memory banks using two 184-pin DDR DIMMs or two 168-pin SDRAM DIMMs Max 2GB
IDE:Ultra DMA 66/100/133 Up to 4 Devices
Slots:1x AGP (AGP 2.0 2x/4x ) and 3 PCI 32 Bit
Ports:1xFDD,1xCOM,1xLPT,2xPS2,VGA,LAN and Audio Ports
Onboard LAN:6103 PHY 10/100 Mbs
Onboard VGA: ProSavage8 2D/3D Graphic
Onboard Audio: Realtek ALC 650
- AMD Athlon XP 1700+ Thoroughbred /266 FSB Processor CPU 1700+/ 1.47GHz
AXDA1700
CPU: 1.47 GHz
Type: 1700 XP Thoroughbred
Cache: 256K
BUS: 266MHz
Micron: .13
Socket A
- CRUCIAL MICRON 256MB 32x64 PC 2100 DDR RAM
184-Pin, CL=2.5-Unbuffered 2.5V, 6-Layers
- Maxtor 40GB 7200RPM Hard Drive Model
Size: 40 Gigabytes
Interface: IDE ULTRA ATA133
Seek time: RPM:7200
Cache 2MB
- Microsoft Multimedia Keyboard & Wheel Mouse
- Aceex V.92 Full Duplex FaxModem PCI Voice, Data, Fax Modem 56000bps Modem
- Cyberdrive 40x16x48 CDRW CD-RW Drive CW078
Buffer: 2MB
Read Speed: 48x for closed sessions.16x for open sessions. Maximum 40x for audio extraction
Write Speed 4x, 8x,12x, 16x, 20x (CLV) and 20x, 24x, 28x, 32x, 36x, 40x (ZCLV) for CD-R media. 4x, 8x, 12x and 16x CLV for CD-RW media
Access Time: 100 ms typical for random access, 100 ms typical for 1/3 stroke
Power Supply: DC +5V ?5%, DC +12V ?10%
Interface:Enhanced IDE (E-IDE)
MTBF > 100,000 POH (25% duty, seek and read)
CPU FAN|HAC-V81 BASE COPPER AMD/INTEL)
Supported Socket type: Socket A, 370, 462 Processors:
Intel P3 Cumine up to 1.13GHz, Celeron (tualatin up to 1.6Ghz)
AMD Duron up to 1.7GHz, all Athlons up to 2600+
Fan Dimension 80 x 80 x 25 mm
Rated Speed 2500 ~ 4800 RPM
Air Flow 31.4 ~ 62.8 CFM
Rated Voltage 12 VDC
Heat Sink Dimension 80 x 69 x 45 mm

Depending on what company made the PS, most companies over exagerate what they will do, or give a peak power output instead of a constant rated amprage. If thier PS will maintain a constant 200watt under full load, then it will get the job done in a all-in-1 unit. Check this page for power consumption of all your parts. It`s kinda old and the values for the VC and processors could be a bit higher, but it will give you a good idea.

Which power supply for k8n neo2 Platinum

I need to buy a new power supply for my computer. With the ATX12V v2.2 standard and ATX12V 2.01 and the "no -5v on new psu's" issue I'm at a loss as to what to look for. I have looked and cannot find what "standard" (is that even the correct term?) the k8n neo2 supports.
My main requirement is that the psu be 550-650 watts and have modular cables. I know someday I will have to upgrade my system to PCI-E and modern components, so I would like a PSU that would work now and in the future.
Could someone point me in the right direction?
Many thanks
system spec's
Motherboard- MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum
CPU- AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual core 4800 939 socket
Memory-CORSAIR 2X1G Twinx2048
Video- ATI HIS 4670 1GB AGP
HD- Seagate 100 gb 7200 rpm
Drives CD-DVD and CD-RW
PSU- Ultra X Connect 500W ATX
Sound- Creative SB Audigy2 Gamer
OS- WinXP Home SP3 32 bit

Why do you need 550-650W or is that just because of future needs? I would suggest one of the Corsair +12V single rail modular PSU's if you insist on the modular design. Check newegg for what they have for modular in the Corsair lineup. I'm sure you're aware that their price is considerably higher than the non-modular. K8 MB's that needed -5V are the early ones that had Creative Sound Blaster onboard audio.
HX650
   * Was: $139.99
   * $109.99
   * After $10.00 Rebate
   * $10.18 Shipping
That's what it is now but if you don't need it in a big hurry you can probably wait a while and get for the same price but with free shipping.
Edit: Gee, Ultra with blown caps, I just happen to have a xPRO 800W that blew some caps, repaired it and started going bad again and then got my TX650 to replace it. Got it for $70 after rebate (which I haven't received yet) by waiting for the right price, rebate and free shipping. VX550 would have been good enough but at the time I got the TX650 at a lower price.

Power Supply and Graphics Card Question for HP Pavilion a6432p

Hello!
I have the HP Pavilion a6342p, and I'm wanting to install an NVIDIA Graphics Card either 512MB or 1GB. However, I'm not sure what is the power supply to this model (most graphics cards are saying 300-350W supply required).
Can anyone tell me what is the power supply to this model, and what would be a good graphics card model to look at to upgrade my graphics card to with this model? I believe the expansion slots are PCI-Express, but I'm not sure on the power supply so I can get the right graphics card.
Thanks!
Nathan

Quote
Originally posted by thegrommit
That 9100 doesn't even have a fan, correct? It should have no problem running on that motherboard with that PSU.
Also, the links in my sig may prove useful.
[edit] err, the 9100 is an integrated video chipset. Are you sure that's the correct number?
No the 9100 is not just an integrated video chipset and is available in both AGP & PCI form.
The Antec is a good PSU but I would recommend getting something better such as the OCZ or Enermax as they have a higher +12v rail amp.

Power Supply blows a fuse, Ext Soundcard power outages, Time Machine.

Power Supply blows a fuse, Ext Soundcard momentary power outages. Time Machine won't backup.
Ok here's my setup
Mac Book Pro 13" APRIL 2011 latest firmware. 8GB RAM. Surge Protected mains connection..
M-AUDIO FIREWIRE SOUNDCARD AUDIOPHILE most recent drivers and powered by the MacBooks Firewire Out using a NEET Pro Lead,
The M-Audio has 2 x Firewire Ports and I take one to a 2TB 7800rpm Iomega iMedia Drive which daisy chains to a 1TB FireWire Seagate HardDrive and yes both are Pre Powered and formatted for Time Machines exclusive use.
The M-Audio Firewire module can be pre powered but isn't for this reason, the FireWire Out from the Mac IS pre powered, and I'm using a good quality NEET lead that powers the Audiophile ok over the last few months. I have been warned by the manual if I add a power supply to a pre powered firewire chain I could damage equipment, I'm now running the the screen as low as possible and the backlit keys off to minimise power drain, I also use an Acer 24" Monitor with a NEET DV mini port to HDMI adaptor and it's been working great but this must be more power drain on the power supply, One of the USB ports goes to an Native Instruments Maschine Sampler Module, the other goes to a Pre Powered 4 Port USB Hub and that has been fine, it has 1 Axiom 25 USB Midi Keyboard, 2 Pre Powered Hard Discs 1 Portable USB Drive. Now the problems started with Time Machine it can't backup and I get Hard Disk Unsafe Disconnects and Failed Time Machine Backups and Now my Soundcard does the same in that it momentarily disconnects and reconnects in a second, in Settings under ENERGY SETTINGS I've set hard drives to Never Shut Down, and the Screen also, it's been more frequent, then a fuse blows in the Power Supply without tripping up my Surge Protector Socket pfft! just great, well it is only a 3AMP Fuse in the Plug Socket but it saved my MacBook!, ok checks Mains, yes it's old, and I've started using the Central Heating alot now and when it turns on it could be causing a power surge, same with the FridgeFreezer. Things i've tried, on the Seagate pre powered FireWire Hardisc I have switched the Firewire lead to its second FW port, I got no errors with Time Machine this time, not 100% it's done yet, Soundcard resets in Logic 9 ****, I do have 2 lower quality Firewire Leads that go from the Soundcard to the 2 harddrives will need upgrading ASAP, thats next, I recon its time to upgrade the Soundcard as well for a Focusrite or similar as all my M-Audio Soundcards would literaly loose there minds on PCs and Macs, flakey drivers would just drop out of the Audiophole Firewire Card, more than I care to mention, so if that happens it could explain why the Time Machine drive drops out also, hmmm, and there was me thinking if I used a Mac it would all be ok. wrong. Would apreciate any qualified input, thanks.

Ok some updates I see, 6 in total including a firmware and security upgrades, also two Native Instruments Updates, Reaktor and Kontakt. I will be testing, this. Before the Updates I managed to peak the CPU load in Logic 9 and was only using 14 tracks, will need to bounce the Synth Plugs and drum tracks and run all the source samples from the Local internal drive a Hitachi 5400rpm drive hmmm :/ will experiment, anyway my Iomega FW drive froze up the Iomega Mac Companion is the correct name for it 2TB 7800rpm but it met it's match or was is the processor? Still sussing it all out. Firewire leads upgrade in effect. testing.. bleep. .

AGP Power Supply Socket

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