Aironet 1600 power supply

Dear all, is the Aironet 1600 compatible with the old power supply of 1231 or 1242 APs?

If your talking about the AC power plug... Yeah it does work. I use then still have a bunch of those to test the newer AP's when there is no PoE switch. I have one old power injector that works also that I haven't thrown away:). Some of my customers still use both in there environment since they would upgrade their AP's but not their switches (no PoE).
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Similar Messages

Why does my FP-1600 take a 24V .5 Amp Power Supply and drop the Voltage to 11V at .5 Amps?

I have a FP-1600 connected to 4 FP-TB-1 bases. 2 FP-AI-100, 1 FP-TC-120, and 1 FP-AO-210 modules. I am powering the FP-1600 with a 24 V .5 A power supply. There are no devices currently connected to any of the modules. The power supply should be supplying 12 W, which should be enough to power the FP-1600 and the 4 modules according to the power requirement calculation in the manual P = 7 W + 1.15*#modules. When I install the third module, the FP-1600 stops communicating. Checking the power supply I see that the voltage drop across the power terminals on the FP-1600 is only 11V and then measuring the current being drawn it is .5 Amps, which is only 5.5 W, not enough to power the devices. When I unhook the power supply and measure the Voltage it is 24 V.
Why is the FP-1600 dropping the Voltage to 11V? Should I just purchase a 12V 2 Amp power supply?
Thanks for any help
Jeremy

Hello jqk,
You got it figured out. The maximum current that can be drawn is .5 which is too small. As the current being drawn approaches the maximum allowable current, the voltage will begin to drop. Eventhough the current you measure is .5A, the fact that the voltage is 11V means that the circuit requires more current to function properly.
As a rule of thumb, you want the maximum current your power supply can deliver to be at least the double of the system's maximum current consumption.

Aironet 1600 Transmitter power: error

Under the 2.4ghz status I see:
Transmitter Power
error
Which i believe is the culprit for weak wireless and also choppy connection to AP.
attached is config
Also I'm using cisco power injector which says its non-cisco which it is!!
Help guys no one in cisco has answer they just send me to different people and now I'm HERE!!
John!

Along with CDP you should also set the power inline. Is the power injector the one listed here?
Powering Options
? 802.3af Ethernet Switch
? Cisco AP1600 Power Injectors (AIR-PWRINJ4=, AIR-PWRINJ5=)
? Cisco AP1600 Local Power Supply (AIR-PWR-B=)
Caution When using the power inline negotiation injector override command, a power injector must always be installed to prevent a possible overload condition with an underpowered power source.
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Aironet 1310, power injector and poe cable

Hello,
Can the power injector delivered with aironet 1310 be supplied by a PoE RJ45 cable rather than the traditionnel DC adapter?
The problem is, i thought Aironet 1310 was PoE. Which means it can be power supplied by a rj45 cable.
But, when i openned my brand new 1310 box, i realized that 1st, it needs that Power Injector to work and that 2nd, Power injector needs a power supply...
Usually when i buy a PoE access point, I just plug in my PoE rj45 cable and its power supplied :)
Anyway, i hope there's an issue for this because where the 1310 should be placed, there's only a PoE rj45 cable arriving.
Thanks in advance,
lachapelle

Hi lachapelle,
Sadly the 1310 cannot be powered by PoE ,but, the Power Injector can be up to 100 meters away from the unit.
Dual coaxial cable to run from the power injector to the 1300. See attached notes:
Cisco Aironet 1300 Series
Cisco Aironet 1300 Series Access Point/Bridge Power Injector
The Cisco Aironet 1300 Series Outdoor Access Point/Bridge Power Injector,converts the standard 10/100 BaseT Ethernet interface that is suitable for weather protected areas to a dual F-Type connector interface for coax cables that are more suitable for harsh outdoor environments. The Power Injector also provides power to the outdoor unit over the same cables with a power discover feature and surge protection. To support longer cable runs from your wireless network switch or router, the Power Injector LR is designed to accommodate up to a 100 meter coaxial cable run plus 100 meters of indoor cat5 cable?enabling total cable runs up to 200 meters. The Cisco Aironet 1300 Series Outdoor Access Point/Bridge ships with the Power Injector LR2 and an AC power supply.
From this link:
http://www.cisco.com/en/US/products/ps5861/products_data_sheet09186a008022551d.html
Cisco Aironet 1300 Series Outdoor Access Point/Bridge Hardware Installation Guide
Ethernet Ports
The access point/bridge dual-coax Ethernet ports consists of a pair of 75-ohm F-type connectors, linking the unit to your 100BASE-T Ethernet LAN through the power injector. The dual-coax cables are used to send and receive Ethernet data and to supply inline 48-VDC power from the power injector to the access point/bridge.
Power
The access point/bridge receives inline power from the Cisco Aironet Power Injector (hereafter called the power injector). Dual-coax cables are used to provide Ethernet data and power from the power injector to the access point/bridge. The power injector is an external unit designed for operation in a sheltered environment, such as inside a building or vehicle. The power injector also functions as an Ethernet repeater by connecting to a Category 5 LAN backbone and using the dual-coax cable interface to the access point/bridge.
From this link:
http://www.cisco.com/en/US/products/ps5861/products_installation_guide_book09186a00804d3095.html
AIR-PWRINJ-BLR2
F-Type Connectors
Dual coaxial cable carries full-duplex Ethernet, DC power, and full-duplex console port (RS-232 connection)
From this link:
http://www.cisco.com/en/US/products/ps5861/products_data_sheet09186a00802252e1.html
Hope this helps!
Rob

Aironet 1600 works only guest SSID

Hi there,
I'm trying to configure an Aironet 1600 for using two SSID, one in guest mode and one hidden.
The first SSID (guest) works fine, but the hidden not. I've the same configuration on some Aironet 1200 and works fine. I've already updated the software at the latest (15.2(4)JB4) version but did not change the issue.
Can anyone help me?
Thanks
Fabio
here is the configuration:
version 15.2
no service pad
service timestamps debug datetime msec
service timestamps log datetime msec
service password-encryption
hostname XXXXXXXX
logging rate-limit console 9
enable secret 5 XXXXXXXX
enable password 7 XXXXXXXX
no aaa new-model
clock timezone +0400 4 0
no ip cef
dot11 syslog
dot11 ssid SSID1
vlan 1
authentication open
authentication key-management wpa
wpa-psk ascii 7 XXXXXXXX
dot11 ssid SSID2
vlan 2
authentication open
authentication key-management wpa
guest-mode
wpa-psk ascii 7 XXXXXXXX
dot11 guest
power inline negotiation prestandard source
username vpap privilege 15 password 7 XXXXXXXX
bridge irb
interface Dot11Radio0
no ip address
no ip route-cache
encryption mode ciphers aes-ccm tkip
encryption vlan 2 mode ciphers aes-ccm tkip
encryption vlan 1 mode ciphers aes-ccm tkip
ssid SSID1
ssid SSID2
antenna gain 0
stbc
beamform ofdm
station-role root access-point fallback shutdown
interface Dot11Radio0.1
encapsulation dot1Q 1 native
no ip route-cache
bridge-group 1
bridge-group 1 subscriber-loop-control
bridge-group 1 spanning-disabled
bridge-group 1 block-unknown-source
no bridge-group 1 source-learning
no bridge-group 1 unicast-flooding
interface Dot11Radio0.2
encapsulation dot1Q 2
no ip route-cache
bridge-group 2
bridge-group 2 subscriber-loop-control
bridge-group 2 spanning-disabled
bridge-group 2 block-unknown-source
no bridge-group 2 source-learning
no bridge-group 2 unicast-flooding
interface Dot11Radio1
no ip address
no ip route-cache
shutdown
antenna gain 0
peakdetect
no dfs band block
channel dfs
station-role root
bridge-group 1
bridge-group 1 subscriber-loop-control
bridge-group 1 spanning-disabled
bridge-group 1 block-unknown-source
no bridge-group 1 source-learning
no bridge-group 1 unicast-flooding
interface GigabitEthernet0
no ip address
no ip route-cache
duplex auto
speed auto
interface GigabitEthernet0.1
encapsulation dot1Q 1 native
no ip route-cache
bridge-group 1
bridge-group 1 spanning-disabled
no bridge-group 1 source-learning
interface GigabitEthernet0.2
encapsulation dot1Q 2
no ip route-cache
bridge-group 2
bridge-group 2 spanning-disabled
no bridge-group 2 source-learning
interface BVI1
ip address X.X.X.X 255.255.255.0
no ip route-cache
ip default-gateway X.X.X.X
ip forward-protocol nd
ip http server
no ip http secure-server
ip http help-path http://www.cisco.com/warp/public/779/smbiz/prodconfig/help/eag
bridge 1 route ip
line con 0
line vty 0 4
login local
transport input all
sntp server X.X.X.X
sntp server X.X.X.X
end

Fisrt of all you are creating more then one ssid then u must use : mbssid guest-mode
add these commands on your config
dot11 ssid SSID1
mbssid guest-mode
dot11 ssid SSID2
mbssid guest-mode
guest-mode
int dot11radio0
mbssid
Try this and let me know if it works. and they you can try to hide ssid and test again.
Regards

Mac Pro power supply failure

Anyone have any luck repairing A 2008 Mac Pro power supply? There are two fried resistors on the board and would like to save the 300 USD for a new supply.

Macitguy.com,
Image was not taken at starting, but to be sure here under are values taken 30 mn after starting with antivirus scanning from the start:
http://peloche.smugmug.com/photos/472815384_tAmam-X3.jpg
My MacPro is 2006 model 4 cores.
AMHA MacPro cooling system is (almost) like this:
http://peloche.smugmug.com/photos/93683908_t22JU-L.jpg
If I were you I'll check that nothing slows airflow around DVD location and I'll install Fan control to increase others fan speed (orange and red airflows on the drawing, mines are running at 1500/1600 rpm) this should help the whole system (AMHA), it doesn't cost to make a test.
Peloche,

8800 Ultra OC - Symptoms of an unpowered power supply?

I have an 8800 ultra OC and am experiencing some issues. I am attempting to determine the cause and one of the stick posts says to not under estimate the importance of the power supply.
I upgraded to an Antec trupower trio 650 W thinking that should be sufficient. However, looking at the specs, it looks like the Amps might not be enough (+3.3@24A,+5V@24A,+12V1@19A,+12V2@19A,+12V3@19A,- [email protected],[email protected] ).
The probelms I am seeing is some textures drop on occasion, leaving big blocks of black. Other times it is less severe with checkerboarding on certain textures. It also got to the point where my machine would lock up all together.
I know it is not heat as I have the side of the case removed and a fan blowng directly on the card. Using Riva Tuner, I never see temps over 75C.
So, could it be the PS not quite putting out enough juice? The card? Driver? Something else?
Thanks!

Sorry, was in a hurry to post and jumped the gun.
Here are the specs on my system:
# CPU brand, model and speed: Intel Core 2 Quad @2.4 GHz (Q6600)
# Motherboard model: Asus Basswood 3G
# Memory brand, type/speed, size, number of sticks: 2x 1 GB PC 5300 @667, 2x 512mb PC 5300 @667
# Video card brand, chipset type, memory size: MSI 8800 Ultra OC
# Hard drive(s) brand, size, type, speed: 2x Western Digital 320 gb Raid 0
# Any other peripheral cards and devices: Hauppauge WinTV HVR-1600 NTSC/ATSC Combo
# Operating system and version: Windows Vista Ultimate 32 bit
# Power Supply Unit brand and output in watts and DC output (amps): Antec trupower trio 650 W (+3.3@24A,+5V@24A,+12V1@19A,+12V2@19A,+12V3@19A,- [email protected],[email protected] )
Do you use latest VGA drivers from Nvidia? Yes, I am running the 163.75 drivers posted on November 6th (nvidia.com)
Where the issue comes? It is particularly bad in Gears of War. Halo 2 also expereinces issues. There is no particular pattern I can see for when it happens.
Have you connected both power cables to the VGA? Yes
Yes can be PSU problem, what is max combined amperes @ +12V? I am not sure where to find this information. Here are the specs:
Spec
Type ATX12V
Maximum Power 650W
Fans 1 x 120mm low noise cooling fan
PFC Active
Main Connector 20+4Pin
+12V Rails 3 x +12V
PCI-E Connectors 2 x 6Pin
NVIDIA SLI Support nVIDIA SLI certified
Modular Cabling Support No
Efficiency Up to 85%
Over Voltage Protection Yes
Input Voltage 100 - 240 V
Input Frequency Range 50/60 Hz
Input Current 10 A
Output +3.3@24A,+5V@24A,+12V1@19A,+12V2@19A,+12V3@19A,- [email protected],[email protected]
MTBF >80,000 Hours
Also forgot to mention I have no issues just running non graphic programs (word, IE, etc). It only happens when running games.

The pavillion 500-319na only has a180 w power supply is this enough

I am thinking of buying a HP Pavillion 500-319na desktop PC, like the spec but my main worry is that its only has a 180 watt power supply, is this enough.

Dear wb2001 & banhien and anyone else willing to contribute,
Please disregard the PSU form factor list at:
HP 500-319na
In actual fact, the Psu is an internal unit. It seems there has been an error when listing the specs.
It is a 180W internal PSU.
The question remains for anyone willing to help us understand.
How is it possible to run this system with these components with just a 180w PSU at moderate to full load/system resource capacity.
Every single Wattage calculator I've used online (mainstream manufacturers and industry accepted benchmarks) show that this setup needs at least a 220w to 300w psu to run at full load. Have there been comprimises made in some shape or form?
I'd really appreciate any input that the community can provide.
Please help fill in the gaps!
i5-4460s
8GB Pc-1600 DDR3 (2x4GB)
NVIDIA GeForce GT 705 (~31W)
Wifi Card - atheros single band 802.11 b/g/n
2TB 7200 rpm HDD
Super multi DVD drive
7in1 multimedia Card reader
Pendragon Memphis-s Motherboard
Beats Audio 7.1
@ Full whack
on 180w PSU? - Don't understand how.
My genuine and sincere thanks,
Algren

T61p : Power supply whistles

Hi,
I have that odd behavior on my 6460-D8G; though I only hear it when atmosphere is quiet;
Whatever I do with my mouse or trackpad, for example, i scroll on a list;
I hear the power supply doing some noise, this noise follows exactly the pattern of my moves.
I scroll, it whistles, i stop scrolling, it stops whistling !
I also found the power supply to emit a different as the screen displays more white.
Same happens when using graphic (not too intensive) applications.
The supply seems normal, i mean it's warm but not "very hot".
Is this something normal ? Could be it something that hasn't been glued properly in the power supply ?
What shall I do ?
Thank you,

Interesting question.
Very short answer:
CPU fan.
Longer answer:
1. I use smcFanControl to control the speeds of my 3 fans in my iMac (2.8 GHz)
2. My "standard" settings are:
CPU fan: 1600 rpm
Hard Drive fan: 1600
Optical Drive fan: 1100
and my "typical" power supply temp is 65° C.
3. I did an experiment and bumped each fan separately up to its maximum speed.
a. Optical Drive fan: from 1100 -> 4400
PS temp: from 65 to 64
b. HDD fan: from 1600 -> 5500
PS temp: from 65 to 68 !! Oops.
c. CPU fan: from 1600 -> 3300
PS temp: from 68 to 42. Yea! But, it is noisy.
4. I then dropped the CPU fan speed to 2000 rpm and the PS temp is now at 52. I can hear the fan, but barely.
I am glad that you asked this question as I have reset my standard to 1800 rpm for the CPU fan. It is quiet and I appear to have a 10° C drop with an increase of 200 rpm.
One thing is clear to me. Apple's default fan speed settings are too low. We should not have to buy smcFanControl to extend the life of our iMacs, the proper speeds should be built into the machine/firmware/software.

Kpo81aa power supply

I recently obtained a used kp081aa docking station for my EliteBook 6930p. However, it does not have a working power supply (or any power supply, for that matter). I am going to purchase a replacement, but want to make sure I get the correct type.
Does anyone know a model or SKU number that I can use to find the right adapter? Or even just the proper Voltage and Wattage so I don't blow up my computer?
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance for your help...

Interesting question.
Very short answer:
CPU fan.
Longer answer:
1. I use smcFanControl to control the speeds of my 3 fans in my iMac (2.8 GHz)
2. My "standard" settings are:
CPU fan: 1600 rpm
Hard Drive fan: 1600
Optical Drive fan: 1100
and my "typical" power supply temp is 65° C.
3. I did an experiment and bumped each fan separately up to its maximum speed.
a. Optical Drive fan: from 1100 -> 4400
PS temp: from 65 to 64
b. HDD fan: from 1600 -> 5500
PS temp: from 65 to 68 !! Oops.
c. CPU fan: from 1600 -> 3300
PS temp: from 68 to 42. Yea! But, it is noisy.
4. I then dropped the CPU fan speed to 2000 rpm and the PS temp is now at 52. I can hear the fan, but barely.
I am glad that you asked this question as I have reset my standard to 1800 rpm for the CPU fan. It is quiet and I appear to have a 10° C drop with an increase of 200 rpm.
One thing is clear to me. Apple's default fan speed settings are too low. We should not have to buy smcFanControl to extend the life of our iMacs, the proper speeds should be built into the machine/firmware/software.

Is my power supply adequate?

Hello, I have a Lenove ThinkCentre M 7484 with a 280W power supply. I recently bought the following MSI video card. Is my power supply adequate? If not, how big of a power supply do I need to upgrade to? Thanks!
MSI R5450-MD512H Radeon HD 5450 Graphics Card - 650 MHz Core - 512 MB GDDR3 SDRAM - PCI Express 2.1 x16 1600 MHz Memory Clock - 2560 x 1600 - CrossFireX - HDMI - DVI - VGA

https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=147095.0

Power Supply Confusion ...Please Help.

So I will admit to not being able to understand the couple of guides on this forum concerning choosing a power supply ...they are REALLY wordy with ALOT of info that honestly seems irrelavant while not exactly dealing with how to choose (alot of bias over single vs mutliple rail and preferred brands). While I aprreciate knowing what PSU's people with money and expereince can afford I am simply trying to find out the minumum so I can choose a little higher rated to maintaining capacitor life.
I would like to ask if the current power supply I have will be sufficient (for at least a month) to the system Im building for mom. Here are the components Im working with:
MSI 880GM-E41 w/HDMI
AMD PhenomII x2 560 BE (Calisto 3.3 GHz AM3 80w)
4GB GSkill Ripjaw Series (2x2GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
500GB WD Caviar Blue (7200 rpm)
CD/DVD -RW (DL) Drive
DVD ROM
PSU - PowerUp LP6100D
DC Output 400w MAX (+5V=30A / +3.3V=28a / -12V=0.8a / +12V=25a / +5V sb=2a / -5V=0.3a)
Total Output 230w (this is really the only value Im confused over)
I have another PSU to use as well:
Tiger Pro LC-B350 ATX
MAX TOTAL WATTAGE 350W (+5V=35A / +3.3V=28a / -12V=0.8a / +12V=16a / +5V sb=2a / -5V=0.3a)
(I think this one might hold??)
At a guess, Im a little under my actual requirements, but Im confused as to whether I have a 400W or 230W PSU. I have full intention on replacing the PSU but need to know if this one is suficient or if it will cause damage if used for only a month or less. I also understand brands mean alot but at this point am more concerned about sufficient power requirements.
*** I even tried the calculator available via the link but couldnt find my processor in the selection field.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=31880.0
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=116580.0

Quote from: Mike on 29-July-11, 03:31:14
Carvetii,
I wouldn't touch a $20 PSU if someone cut me a million dollar check to do so...well, I might touch it, but I wouldn't ever use it. The PSU is sold for $20 for a reason...it is made with cheap components. I hope yours works for you and doesn't have any issues--like take out your whole system.
MyWonThing,
What are your plans? Do you plan on always using onbord video, or are you going to get a discrete VGA in the future? Do you want a PSU to handle what you have now only or something that you can use in an upgrade, add-in VGA or when you build a newer system? A Corsair CX400 should be plenty for what you have now, but, for future proofing, depending on your plans, you may want a Corsair CX600 or TX750(or bigger if you plan on a high-end VGA).
I understand why lower priced parts make people nervous, but I make hardly nothin as a disbaled veteran. My plans for the described setup are so a 60+ year old can check email, etc. NOTHING TO MUCH BEYOND THAT. If I do add a VGA card it will simply be to allow for dual monitor output and will not be chosen for high end graphics capbility. I dont mind spending as much as $40 for a reliable PSU but again, I get about nothing per month, no overtime ever, and do not have the luxury to choose a high end power supply, nor will this system ever be taxed enough to matter.
BTW...Price has VERY little to do these days with reliability . The current MoBo Im using I got new, for cheaper than most others on the market when obtained and it is not going to be fully retired but used as a *nux set up , as it still runs like a champ ( OORAH MSI!!! ). Its still pretty much a stable board, just time to upgrade for OS compatibilities. Also, take a look a t the PS3 . Very expensive (especially at release) yet some of the cheapest components and solder out there were used , and its just gotten cheaper(the parts). I know some of the components in said console ARE high quality but there is still alot of other crap that the manufacturer simply skimped on , for whatever reason but none the less, they went with very inferior parts.
So with all that being said, Im AM NOT concerned about brand. This is something I will research. I was confused as to whether I had a 400W or 230W PSU, but Im pretty sure its a 230W (if Im wrong let me know on PSU#1).
I am more interested in the minimum power rating required for listed set-up. NOT BRANDS for it.
Quote from: MyWonThing on 29-July-11, 01:41:39
MSI 880GM-E41 w/HDMI
AMD PhenomII x2 560 BE (Calisto 3.3 GHz AM3 80w)
4GB GSkill Ripjaw Series (2x2GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
500GB WD Caviar Blue (7200 rpm)
CD/DVD -RW (DL) Drive
DVD ROM
PSU - PowerUp LP6100D
DC Output 400w MAX (+5V=30A / +3.3V=28a / -12V=0.8a / +12V=25a / +5V sb=2a / -5V=0.3a)
Total Output 230w (this is really the only value Im confused over)
I have another PSU to use as well:
Tiger Pro LC-B350 ATX
MAX TOTAL WATTAGE 350W (+5V=35A / +3.3V=28a / -12V=0.8a / +12V=16a / +5V sb=2a / -5V=0.3a)
(I think this one might hold??)
While I wont be using the minimum , it will help a fixed income veteran possibly save money from getting more than this needs .
Thanks guys

NX 5K Power Supply

Hi all,
I replaced a new PSU I received from Cisco to replace a failed PSU. I issued this command "sh env power" but the new PSU isn't listed and the parameters for the Power show "0". The LED indicator is showing green and I didn't reboot the sw.
I was wondering if anyone has info on why this symptom. I'd really appreciate the input.
Best, ~zK
sh ver
Cisco Nexus Operating System (NX-OS) Software
TAC support: http://www.cisco.com/tac
Copyright (c) 2002-2011, Cisco Systems, Inc. All rights reserved.
The copyrights to certain works contained herein are owned by
other third parties and are used and distributed under license.
Some parts of this software are covered under the GNU Public
License. A copy of the license is available at
http://www.gnu.org/licenses/gpl.html.
Software
BIOS: version 3.5.0
loader: version N/A
kickstart: version 5.0(3)N2(2a)
system: version 5.0(3)N2(2a)
power-seq: Module 1: version v4.0
Module 4: version v0.0
uC: version v1.0.0.2
SFP uC: Module 1: v1.0.0.0
BIOS compile time: 02/03/2011
kickstart image file is: bootflash:/n5000-uk9-kickstart.5.0.3.N2.2a.bin
kickstart compile time: 10/15/2011 9:00:00 [10/15/2011 09:44:53]
system image file is: bootflash:/n5000-uk9.5.0.3.N2.2a.bin
system compile time: 10/15/2011 9:00:00 [10/15/2011 11:35:57]
Hardware
cisco Nexus5596 Chassis ("O2 48X10GE/Modular Supervisor")
Intel(R) Xeon(R) CPU with 8299528 kB of memory.
Processor Board ID FOC154055Y4
Device name:CA_VAC_AS_01
bootflash: 2007040 kB
Kernel uptime is 5 day(s), 9 hour(s), 56 minute(s), 56 second(s)
Last reset
Reason: Unknown
System version: 5.0(3)N2(2a)
Service:
plugin Core Plugin, Ethernet Plugin
CA_VAC_AS_01# sh en power
Power Supply:
Voltage: 12 Volts
PS Model Input Power Power Status
Type (Watts) (Amp)
1 AC 0.00 0.00 ok
2 N55-PAC-1100W AC 1050.00 87.50 ok
Mod Model Power Power Power Power Status
Requested Requested Allocated Allocated
(Watts) (Amp) (Watts) (Amp)
1 N5K-C5596UP-SUP 648.00 54.00 648.00 54.00 powered-up
4 N55-M16UP 90.00 7.50 90.00 7.50 powered-up
Power Usage Summary:
Power Supply redundancy mode: Redundant
Power Supply redundancy operational mode: Redundant
Total Power Capacity 1050.00 W
Power reserved for Supervisor(s) 648.00 W
Power currently used by Modules 90.00 W
Total Power Available 312.00 W

Interesting question.
Very short answer:
CPU fan.
Longer answer:
1. I use smcFanControl to control the speeds of my 3 fans in my iMac (2.8 GHz)
2. My "standard" settings are:
CPU fan: 1600 rpm
Hard Drive fan: 1600
Optical Drive fan: 1100
and my "typical" power supply temp is 65° C.
3. I did an experiment and bumped each fan separately up to its maximum speed.
a. Optical Drive fan: from 1100 -> 4400
PS temp: from 65 to 64
b. HDD fan: from 1600 -> 5500
PS temp: from 65 to 68 !! Oops.
c. CPU fan: from 1600 -> 3300
PS temp: from 68 to 42. Yea! But, it is noisy.
4. I then dropped the CPU fan speed to 2000 rpm and the PS temp is now at 52. I can hear the fan, but barely.
I am glad that you asked this question as I have reset my standard to 1800 rpm for the CPU fan. It is quiet and I appear to have a 10° C drop with an increase of 200 rpm.
One thing is clear to me. Apple's default fan speed settings are too low. We should not have to buy smcFanControl to extend the life of our iMacs, the proper speeds should be built into the machine/firmware/software.

I had an Intel-iMac fried by lightening. UPS, surge protectors but it happened as I was reaching to unplug. Cold now. Could it just be the power supply? Can I replace that myself?

This is the full question since I couldn't get it all in the box.
I have some complex questions regarding an iMac, a Time-Machine backup, and iTunes on an iPod.
I live about halfway up an extinct volcano about 12 miles north of San Jose Costa Rica. Some months ago, we had a thunderstorm and as I reached to unplug my computers lightening struck about 50 meters from my house. I had an iMac with a 3-Tb external backup drive, a PC laptop and a laser printer on the same power strip. There was a definite surge and the light brighten and then power was lost for a few minutes.
When power was restored, the PC and the laser printer seemed to work fine but the iMac was cold.
First questions: Is is possible that the power supply was fried and not other essential parts? Would it be worthwhile to replace the power supply? Can I, with limited experience and tools do it or need I take it to a technician? My concern is that if the hard-drive is good, there is personal information on it that I don't want to risk.
Next question: Do I need to replace the hard-drive before taking it for service? How hard is that, can I do it? I have seen videos of the drive replacement on-line.
Those are my iMac questions, now the questions about backup restoration.
If there is a saving grace with this it is that the Time-Machine backup seems fine although I have only accessed the data through Finder. I replaced the iMac with a Macbook Air with significantly less mass storage and I can't just move files to the Macbook. My problem is that I have an iTunes library of some 10,000 songs on the backup and until recently on a 160 Gb iPod which was old and it crashed. I have replaced the iPod but have not tried to restore the iTunes library to it because of my confusion about how to do that. Can anyone tell me how I might do that or give me any insight into the process?
Thanks for any help you can give.

Is is possible that the power supply was fried and not other essential parts? Would it be worthwhile to replace the power supply? Can I, with limited experience and tools do it or need I take it to a technician? My concern is that if the hard-drive is good, there is personal information on it that I don't want to risk
Quite possible, but working on iMacs is not easy, & PSU might be prohibitive.
Hopefully the Drive might have info on it, but even pulling that out can be a chore.
If you don't know the model, find the Serial# & use it on one of these sites, but don't post the Serial# here...
http://www.chipmunk.nl/klantenservice/applemodel.html
http://www.appleserialnumberinfo.com/Desktop/index.php
How to find the serial number of your Apple hardware product...
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1349
I have replaced the iPod but have not tried to restore the iTunes library to it because of my confusion about how to do that. Can anyone tell me how I might do that or give me any insight into the process?
I'd get an external drive & restore the whole works to it, then boot from the External drive.

Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
or just funning with the latest games.
What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
Well...Do we have your attention!?
If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
your PSU is trying to tell you something.
To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
become noisier as time goes by.
As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
APM (Advanced Power Management)
APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
modes.
ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
concerned about this feature.
Line-Conditioning Circuitry
A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
the most unreliable of home sockets.
EMI Filter
This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
PFCC
Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
Connectors
There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
3) Molex peripheral power connector
4) Floppy power connector
5) Serial ATA power connector
On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
Know What You Need
When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
worth looking into.
If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Modular Power Supplys:
The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

Quote
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W xD. Come on.
Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

Aironet 1600 power supply

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