AirPlay and cutting cable questions

I'm considering purchasing Apple TV to lower my cable bill, but need to have some questions answered before I proceed:
1. I have a "smart" Vizio TV that has Netflix and Hulu already built in. I am presuming this will not conflict with Apple TV's version, true?
2.Will streaming media from my 2012 iMac lose its high resolution to my TV via AirPlay? I am presuming it can be streamed, but would I lose the HD component of the stream? My thinking is that news broadcasts, etc. or even sports clips on ESPN can be seen on my Vizio TV in high def.
Thanks for all replies.

1. Correct.
2. If the content is in HD it will stream that way via basic airplay, any loss in resolution would be due to something within the network (i.e. connection speed, interferece)
Mirroring will display the content exactly how it is seen on your iMac

Similar Messages

Iphone, Airplay and Apple TV Question

Question: Will I be able to stream a photo album or HD video shot on an Iphone straight to a TV via Apple TV without syncing through itunes first?
I have contacted Apple and one response was that it would already have to be in Itunes, which means I'll have to make a 'roundtrip' from the iphone to computer back to iphone, which seems stupid. I think the killer app of apple tv is not renting movies, it is the ability to stream content. For example I shoot some HD video or take photos at Christmas and stream them to TV for everyone to watch - straight from my iPhone. If Apple don't plan on doing this, they are missing a trick.

I've read all your posts, Shaggy. I've a bit of an opposite view. I much prefer the renting vs iphone streaming, but I understand where you are coming from.
Regarding this post: Wow! Are you serious?? Apple is telling you that content on the iphone/ipad must be synced to iTunes before it can be streamed to tv??!! That really would be "missing the trick"!!
That would mean the new device truly is inferior. Wait, I recall Jobs saying "we got rid of syncing".
That would mean no friends streaming a quick photo or music playlist, no purchasing a show on iPad (which I would never do anyhow. I'd use my tv quite frankly) and immediately streaming it to tv.
Makes me wonder if "streaming" is regulated. Meaning, will each device need to registered to one iTunes account and all others are out of luck. That would be "missing the trick."

After recent upgrade to Yosemite on Macbook air bluetooth audio cuts out and associated video stops with audio. Likewise with airplay and Apple TV. I have deleted all my saved wifi connections and restarted numerous times. I do not expect a resolutio

After recent upgrade to Yosemite on Macbook air bluetooth audio cuts out and associated video stops with audio. Likewise with airplay and Apple TV. I have deleted all my saved wifi connections and restarted numerous times. I do not expect a resolution from the community, but hope to get the attention of Apple engineers. If you are having same problems or have a miracle cure I am all ears.

May start my own thread, but I'm having similar issues.
I've been using an old iMac (running 10.7.5) and Apple TV for years with no issues. Last week I bought a new Macbook Pro running Yosemite and have had audio issues multiple times. The weird thing is that sometimes it works flawlessly, other times (like now) I spend half an hour just trying to get a song to play.
My issues are: When I got to "computers" in Apple TV to stream my music, my music is sometimes chopper or intermittent, and I seen to know when it's going to happen based on the status wheel just before it plays. When I choose a song, the status wheel will spin for an unusually long time, usually an indicator that the audio is either not going to work, or stutter.
When it does finally pull up a song, the playhead sits at the beginning of the song for a good 3-5 seconds before actually playing. Then, when it starts playing, it's all downhill. It will play a few seconds, drop out, play a few more seconds, drop out, and then ultimately the playhead will keep moving across the song as if it's playing, but there's no audio.
Again, this is a new phenomenon never experienced by me. I've tried everything I could think of, some of them all at once:
• restart Apple TV
• restart Macbook Pro
• quite iTunes/open
• turn off Home Sharing on iTunes then reconnect it
• unplugging and cycling both my modem and router
None of these have alleviated the problem.
The odd thing is, like this morning, the audio started up perfectly and never gave me any issues. It wasn't until later in the day that it started. Perhaps after the macbook pro had been put to sleep? Not sure.
Regardless, this is an annoying trait, one that's new to me and my system (as stated, worked flawlessly until my new purchase), and is 100% limited to either a) the macbook pro b) Yosemite or c) both of them.

Airplay from 4s no video and cuts off internet connection

Airplay mirroring from 4s used to work now whenever I try it only streams audio and no video and cuts off my internet connection. Apple tv is connected with CAT6 ethernet to a dual band router. I optomized my router according to apple standards and still having issues

Having similar issue after updating firmware and utility. Utility now is not finding ap or ape yet they seem to be functioning. Very odd.

AirPlay Audio Cuts in and Out

I have had major issues in the past six months with the audio from my AirPlay where there used to be none. For a long while I used an elaborate setup from my 2nd gen AppleTV, to a optical audio out to a quarter inch converter to an AudioEngine wireless dongle to my receiver with flawless results between 2013 and late 2014. When problems started occuring I naturally figured it was the wi-fi network, I did some serious reconfiguring to get as strong and clean of a wi-fi signal as possible, still had the issues. I finally decided to simplify the whole setup to an AirPlay compatible Denon AVR-x1000 stereo that hardwires to my wireless router. All was good for a week, now its worse than ever, even resetting the internet and the router will not seem to get the AirPlay from cutting in and out. I have an iPad, an iPhone 5 and a Macbook Pro, and an AppleTV all connecting to the receiver. All have the same cut in and out problem that existed before the receiver and after. It seems every update makes things less stable not more. Is there someone who can help walk me through a fix or just tell me AirPlay no longer works so I can stop trying?
Please help!!!
Here is my setup -
Macbook Pro 15-inch, Mid 2012 - 2.6 GHz Intel Core i7, 8GB RAM Running OS X Yosemite 10.10.3 connected by Wi-Fi
Denon AVR-X1000 AirPlay enable receiver connected directly to router via ethernet
Netgear Dualband Wireless-N Router WNDR3700 - 2.4GHZ Channel has a 92% Signal and the 5Ghz has 85%
Internet Connection is fast and consistent 72MBps Down 10 Up
2nd Gen AppleTV connected via Wi-Fi
iPhone 5 iOS 8.3
2nd Gen iPad running iOS 8.2
I have shut off bluetooth on anything that has it to avoid interference. The video of the appleTV works just fine and the Airplay Icon is consistently available, this is an AUDIO issue.
***There is another 2nd Gen Apple TV in a separate room (weaker signals all around) connected to the same network that works flawlessly streaming audio and video from any device.***

Hello Mikeh42,
Thanks for using Apple Support Communities.
To troubleshoot issues with AirPlay please follow the steps listed in the article linked to below.
Resolve issues with AirPlay and AirPlay Mirroring from iPhone, iPad, and iPod touch
Take care,
Alex H.

Got a New MacBook!! (And a few questions)

Hello everyone...
I've finally switched to Mac! Well... I'm halfway in the process. Right now I'm typing this on my PC. I'm completely new to the world of Mac, and if you could help me with some questions I have, I'd really appreciate it!
1. How fast is the file transfer from a PC to a Mac (by a direct Ethernet Connection)? Is it like USB 2.0, or a little slower?
2. My MacBook came with the MagSafe Power Adapter, and another cable that the MacBook Tech Specs page calls "AC Wall Plug & Power Cord". What is this one for? Isn't the MagSafe the one I should use with my computer?
3. I'm concerned about battery lifespan, I want my battery to last as much as possible. The thing is, I'm not going to college until September (next year), and I probably won't need the battery power until then (right now, I don't need portability that much).
What's the best I can do to keep my battery condition like new? The supports articles I've read say that Li-Polymer batteries should go through at least one charge cycle per month. Is this the way I can maximize my battery lifespan? Or should I make it go through 2 charge cycles per month? Is there a better alternative?
Also, I've read that it's good to calibrate the battery (perform a full charge, then a full discharge) every 30 charge cycles or so. Has anyone here done it? How were your experiences?
4. Last but not least, I've read that the MacBook comes with a lot of programs already installed in the hard drive, and some people are saying that re-installing Mac OS X with the CDs provided in the box will give you disk space back for programs that you don't use. I've also read a little about this program: http://www.id-design.com/software/whatsize/ (I think it's freeware) that lets you do the same thing: claim hard disk space you're not using at all. How good is it? What's the best choice?
Also, can I uninstall demo programs included with my MacBook once they expire (like iWork '06 and Office 2004)? Can I use iWork '06 after the demo expires, or are there any limitations?
Well, thanks A LOT for reading this large thread. I hope you can help me out with my questions...
Black MacBook (1 GB RAM) Mac OS X (10.4.6) Got my new MacBook!

Hi and welcome to the Mac
1. It depends on the ethernet port of your PC. The Macbook has a gigabit capable port than can transfer as much as 100MB per second. If your PC also has one, then this is probably the fastest option.
Probably, your PC has only 100Mbit ethernet port, which allows you to transfer data at up to 10MB per second. In that case USB 2 will be a bit faster (even though you have to copy your data two times - once from the PC to the USB drive and once from the USB drive to you Mac).
2. The power cord can be used as an extension if you can't connect the power adapter directly. Just slide off the wall plug on the adapter and connect the cable. You can not connect it to the Macbook directly.
3. Not sure about that one. You should leave the battery installed though, because if it is removed the Macbook doesn't work correctly anymore (at least that's what I have heard, havn't tested it myself). The power connection to the battery is cut off as soon as it is charged, so it shouldn't be damaged, if you just leave it as it is. I have calibrated my battery when I got my Macbook (this made the capacity go up a bit) and should probably do so again soon. Maybe someone else can give you more tips.
4. It is true that you can save space by doing a clean insall, just because you can deselect those applications that you don't need. iDVD for example comes with a Gigabyte (or even more) Templates. GarageBand and all its loops and instruments take several Gigabytes. I don't know that particular program WhatSize, looks quite useful though. You can remove the demos (Microsoft Office, iWork, something else?) by just dragging their directories (in the Applications folder to the trash (and emptying it). Unless you buy a full license of the Demos, they stop working after a certain period of time. You won't be able to open them anymore. If you delete an application and later realize that you need it, you can always re-install it from the included CD/DVDs.
hope that helps

Airplay and IOS8 - How to make it work

Many users report problem with Airplay on ATV3 after the IOS8 update and ATV3 7.0
In the previous versions Airplay would be accessible within the video or music application with a small icon on the bottom
In IOS8 those icons disappeared from inside the music and video app and are now found in the control centre or in the share button for photos
So to make Airplay work in IOS8 you need to do the following:
Music, Videos and Photos
Go into your music or videos and then swipe up to recall the control center.
Here select airplay and your apple tv
Play
Photos only can access airplay from the share button
Mirroring
Go into the control centre from the lock or home screen
Select airplay
Select AppleTV
Swipe on mirroring
This has been tested on iphone 5/5s/6 Ipad 3 and Mini
The Apple Tv3 will also wake up from Sleep as long as you don't have an airport extreme/time capsule AC as those products are faulty and fail to wake up sleeping bonjour devices

Nice try but that's not the problem.
Maybe there are some users who can not find the airplay menu.
BUT there are also many users who the airplay is not working.
Please see my question:
Airplay is not working after the last updates
The apple tv (other airplay devices like the cocoon are there) is not only not available in the ios devices, it is also not avaible on the imac, which is by ethernet cable connected to the same router as the apple tv is (also by cable).
I never selected airplay in some apps, in the past I selected airplay always from the control center in ios...and it is not there any longer.
The problem is: If the apple tv is in sleep mode, you can not find it in ios 8 as well as on the imac - thats my situation.

Just upgrade my MacBook Pro Mid 2010 to Mountain Lion and tried to connect with Apple TV 3th gen. through Airplay and couldn't mirrorring video on my LG Smart TV screen. Just paid US 99.00 for Apple TV plus US 19.99 to Mountain Lion for nothing @?$%

Just upgrade my MacBook Pro Mid 2010 to Mountain Lion and tried to connect with Apple TV 3th gen. through Airplay and couldn't mirrorring video on my LG Smart TV screen.
Just paid US 99.00 for Apple TV plus US 19.99 to Mountain Lion for nothing @?$%& !!!!
Back again to mini display to hdmi cable.
could you help me????

It is stated that mirroring requires recent hardware (2011 or later)
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht5404
However you can still use 3rd party solutions like Airparrot which do it via software

Adding a RAID card to help speed up export (and other drive question) in Premiere Pro CC

First of all, I have read Tweakers Page exporting section because that is where my primary concern is. First my questions, then background and my current and proposed configurations:
Question 1: Will adding a hardware RAID controller, such as an LSI MegaRAID remove enough burden from the CPU managing parity on my software RAID 5 that the CPU will jump for joy and export faster?
Question 2: If true to above, then compare thoughts on adding more smaller SSDs for either a one volume RAID 0 or smaller two volume RAID 0 to complement existing HDD RAID 5. That is, I'm thinking of buying four Samsung 850 Pro 128 GB SSDs to put in a four disk volume to handle everything (media/projects, media cache, previews, exports), or split it up into two volumes of two disks each and split the duties, or keep the four disk volume idea and put the previews & exports on my HDD RAID 5 array.
The 850's are rated at SEQ read/write: 550/470 MB/s thus I could get around 2000/1500 MB/s read write in a four disk RAID 0 or 1/2 that if I split into two volumes to minimize volumes from reading/writing at the same time, if that really matters with these SSDs?
The Tweaker's page made a few comments. One is splitting duties among different disks, rather than a large efficient RAID may actually slow things down. Since the SSDs are much faster than a single HDD, I'm thinking that is no longer accurate, thus I'm leaning toward the Four disk configuration putting OS & Programs on C drive, Media & Projects on D (HDD RAID 5), Pagefile & Media Cache on SSD (2-disk RAID 0) and Previews &Exports on 2nd SSD RAID 0 (or combine the two RAID 0's and their duties).
Just trying to get a perspective here, since I haven't purchased anything yet. Any experience/stories, I would appreciate.
My current drive configuration:
My D drive is software RAID 5 consisting of four 1 TB Western Digital RE4 (RED) 7200 RPM HDDs with a CrystalDiskMark SEQ Read/Write of 339/252 MB/s.
The C drive is SSD 500 GB (Samsung 840 (not Pro) and does 531/330 MB/s. My OS, Program Files and Page File are on C, and data/media files/project, etc all are on the RAID drive.
Problem:
Current setup allows for smooth editing, only the exporting seems slow, often taking between two and two and a half times the video length to export. Thus a 10 minute video takes 20-30 minutes to export. 15 minute video can take 30-40 minutes to export. The first 10% of the two-pass export takes under a minute (seems fast), but it gets slower where the final 10 or 20% can hang for many minutes like my system is running out of steam. So where is the waste?
I have enabled hardware acceleration (did the GPU hack since my GPU isn't listed) and it may spike at 25% usage a few times and eat up 600 MB of VRAM (I have 2 GB of VRAM), otherwise it is idle the whole export. The CPU may spike at 50% but it doesn't seem overly busy either.
Our timeline is simple with two video streams and two audio streams (a little music and mostly voice) with simple transitions (jump cuts or cross dissolves). We sometimes fast color correct, so that might use the GPU? Also, since we film in 1080 60P and export 1080 29.97 frames/sec, I think that is scaling and uses the GPU. I know without the GPU, it does take a lot longer. I have ruled out buying a faster GPU since it doesn't appear to be breaking a sweat. I just need to know if my system is bottlenecked at the hard drive level because I'm using software RAID and my disks are slow and will hardware RAID significantly reduce the CPU load so it can export faster.
Our files are not huge in nature. Most our clips are several MBs each. Total project files are between 5 GBs and 10 GBs for each video with Windows Media File export being 500 MB to 1.2 GB on average. We shoot using Panasonic camcorders so the original files are AVCHD, I believe (.MTS files?).
Considerations:
1. I'm thinking of buying (and future proofing) an LSI Logic MegaRAID 9361-8i that is 12Gb/s SAS and SATA (because some current SSDs can exceed the 6Gb/s standard).
2. I'm not replacing my current RAID 5 HDDs because not in my budget to upgrade to 6 or more large SSDs. These drives are more important to me for temporary storage because I remove the files once backed up. I don't mind a few inexpensive smaller SSDs if they can make a significant difference for editing and exporting.
I can only guess my HDD RAID is slow but the CPU is burdened with parity. I would imagine running RAID 10 would not help much.
My setup:
my setup:
CPU - i7-3930K CPU @4.5 GHz
RAM - G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR3 2133 @2000
Motherboard - ASUS P9X79 WS LGA 2011
GPU - Gigabyte GeForce GTX 660 OC 2GB (performed the compatibility list hack to enable hardware acceleration).
C drive - 500 GB Samsung 840 SSD (Windows 7 Pro 64 bit and programs).
D drive - four 1 TB WD RE4 Enterprise HDDs 7200 RPMs in software RAID 5
Case - Cooler Master HAF X
CPU Fan - Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO with 120 mm fan
Power Supply - Corsair Pro Series AX 850 Watt 80 Plus Gold
Optical Drive - Pioneer BDR - 208DBK
thanks in advance,
Eric

........software RAID 5 off the motherboard ??????......NOT a good idea, from what I have read here on this forum from experts like Harm Millard and others. They have mentioned a LARGE overhead on the CPU doing this....causing sub-par performance. RAID 0 off the motherboard will NOT do this, however.....RAID 0 would provide optimum speed, but, with the risk of total data loss if ANY drive fails. You may wish to reconfigure your RAID to be RAID 0...BUT...you would need to DILIGENTLY back up its entire volume onto perhaps a quality 4TB drive very frequently.
A lot depends on the nature of your current and FUTURE codecs you plan to edit. You may not want to sink a lot of money into an older setup that may have trouble with more demanding future codecs. For now, in the 1080p realm, your rig should be OK....the read/write performance on your CURRENT RAID 5 setup is not great, and a definite drag on the performance. The rest of your components appear to be fine.....the Samsung SSD, though not ideal, is OK.....it's write speed is WAY lower than the Pro model,but, the drive is used mainly for reading operations. Since you have Windows 7 Pro, and NOT Windows 8.......you CAN put the entire windows page file onto the RAID 0 you might create.....this will take that frequent read/write load OFF the SSD. Read the "tweakers Page" to see how to best TUNE your machine. To use your current setup most efficiently, without investing much money, you would :a. create the RAID 0 off the motherboard, ( putting all media and project files on it ) b. install a quality 7200rpm 4TB HDD to serve as a BACKUP of the RAID array. Then, install a Crucial M550 256GB or larger SSD, ( close in performance to Samsung 850 Pro...much cheaper), to put all previews, cache , and media cache files on....AND to use as " global performance cache" for After Effects...if you use that program. Exporting can be done to ANOTHER Crucial M550 for best speed...or, just to the either the FIRST Crucial or, the 4TB drive. Your current GPU will accelerate exports on any video containing scaling and any GPU accelerated effects. Your CPU is STILL important in SERVING the data to and from the GPU AND for decoding and encoding non-GPU handled video....your high CPU clock speed helps performance there ! You may want to check out possibly overclocking your video card, using MSI Afterburner.or, similar free program. Increasing the "memory clock speed" can RAISE performance and cut export times on GPU effects loaded timelines,or, scaling operations. On my laptop, I export 25% faster doing this. With my NEW i7 4700 HQ laptop, I export in the range of your CURRENT machine....about 2 to 3 times the length of the original video. PROPERLY SET UP...your desktop machine should BLOW THIS AWAY !!
Visit the PPBM7 website and test your current setup to possibly identify current bottlenecks,or, performance issues. THEN, RE-TEST it again, after making improvements to your machine to see how it does. Be aware that new codecs are coming (H.265 and HEVC,etc.) which may demand more computer horsepower to edit, as they are even MORE compressed and engineered for "streaming" high quality at a lower bandwidth on the internet. The new Haswell E...with its quad-channel memory, 8 core option, large number of PCI gen. 3 lanes, goes farther in being prepared for 4K and more. Testing by Eric Bowen has shown the newer PPro versions provide MUCH better processing of 4K than older versions.

Photo Quality Airplay and AppleTV 2

Hi and thanks for reading,
I just bought a 50'' Full HD TV and made some test with my Apple TV 2.
I noticed that by Air Playing my iPhone photoes I have not the same definition and quality that I have by uploading my photos from my iPhone to the TV buildin photo viewer, which on the contrary makes them looking great.
Is this due to the fact that with AppleTV 2 photoes aswell are mirrored in 720p instead of 1080p?
Can I expect to fix the issue by upgrading to an AppleTV 3 @ 1080p?
Many tnxs

There are several variables here at work.
Wireless vs Wired
Video source and original quality,
Internet Speed.
Your difference between wired and wireless is really high. Unless your wifi is heavily used, or you have interference, the difference is too high to be natural. There's probably something else there cutting your bandwidth in half when you go wireless.
The higher quality a video is, the larger its file size is going to be. Which means its going to need a better internet connection to stream reasonably, otherwise its going to stop continuously to buffer. This should in general terms not affect the actual quiality of the video, only the streaming experience.
Some sites adjust the video quality depending on the internet connection to provide a smoother stream at the cost of picture quality.
Where are you viewing these Tv shows from? If Netflix is satisfactory in terms of quality, then the MacBook is not the issue.
As far as your speed goes, its average, even a little low I would say but shouyld still be capably of streaming standard definition movies correctly. .
RWP123 wrote:
Finally to confirm: the screen resolution of the ipad has no effect on the viewed picture quality on the HD TV using airplay and AppleTV?
That is correct. The screen resolution is just that. It does not affect the video output to a TV as that is more dependant on the video type. All 3 iPads currently on the market will output an HD movie at the same 1080p resolution.

When I capture from my camera in anamorphic and the picture is smashed down and cut at both sides, what capture settings shall I put?

please tell me the correct video-settings for capture and sequenze. Actually my camera films in anamorphic and when I capture the images is cut at right and left. So I changed the settings to anamorphic, but it doesn't work well. The image is smashes down and cut at right and left. I don't understand why. Can you help me to put the correct settings for my case? Thank you

monikaka wrote:
I'm talking about Final Cut Pro.
This is the FCP X forum - you should ask this question in the Final Cut Studio forum:
https://discussions.apple.com/community/professional_applications/final_cut_stud io
Andy

TV Screen goes Black - Airplay and ATV3

Hey there,
I had been using airplay and had no issues at all. I have been trying to use it today and it won't work.
As soon as I turn AirPlay mirroring on my mac the tv screen goes black.
As a test I used airplay with my iphone and it worked.
Someone has posted a similar question but his solution did not work for me, I did restart both ATV and mac and still have the issue.
Could anybody help?

For me, Problem solved... sorta!
https://discussions.apple.com/message/19417133#19417133
It appears that Parallels 7 is not compatible with Airplay Desktop Mirroring in ML
If you remove this file com.parallels.desktop.launchdaemon.plist
inside
/Library/LaunchDaemons
then reboot.
ATV3 now works again with Airplay Mirroring.
However, it breaks Parallels. And you simply cannot put the com.parallels.desktop.launchdaemon.plist file back inside /Library/LaunchDaemons. You need to re-install Parrallels. Could be a permissions thing, but I tried to repaire and follow Parallels instructions on how to start and stop the service.
I Hope this helps... If you don't use parallels, then it still could be something in the /Library/LaunchDaemons or /Library/LaucnhAgents directories

Hey my iphone was working perfectly and then i sent it to check up and it came back with the itunes icon and data cable on it. so i tried plugging it in the computer and a message on itunes came up saying theres a problem with your phone. HELP PLEASE!!

hey my iphone was working perfectly and then i sent it to check up and it came back with the itunes icon and data cable on it. so i tried plugging it in the computer and a message on itunes came up saying theres a problem with your phone and it may be damaged and cannot be activated. HELP PLEASE!!

Why on earth send a Worning phone for service sounds like cutting up a Heaththy PET to see how it looks on the inside

I have a mini iPad with which I take pictures and capture video. In order to see them on my home tv I bought an Appletv and HDMI cable and connected it to my home tv, Now I can see the pictures but not the video.Solution please?

How can I view on my home TV videos that I captured with my mini iPad?

Hey andrikos175,
Thanks for the question, and welcome to Apple Support Communities.
You are on the right track, you'll want to AirPlay these videos to your Apple TV. If you are having issue with AirPlay, please see the following troubleshooting resources:
Using AirPlay
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4437
Troubleshooting AirPlay and AirPlay Mirroring
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS4215
Thanks,
Matt M.

Is it safe to plug and unplug USB and Firewire cables with the computer on?

Is it safe to plug and unplug USB and Firewire cables with the computers on? I have a Mac G4 and a newly purchased IMac and I use one printer for both computers. Should I shut down the computers when I unplug the printer and connect to the other computer? How about when switching firewire drives.
Is there an easy way to have both computers connected to the same printer? I have an Epson 1280 printer.

Yes, you can unplug a printer without shutting down the computer, but if you are switching the printer to another computer then you should first turn off the printer, unplug it, re-connect to the other computer, then turn on the printer. This will assure that the printer will be properly recognized.
If you have your computers networked via Ethernet then you can leave the printer connected to one computer and share it with the other via the network connection. Printer sharing is turned on using the Sharing preference in System Preferences. You will need to Add the printer on both computers so you will need the appropriate printer driver installed on both computers.
See the following articles for more:
http://members.cox.net/18james/osxprintersharing.html
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=58028
http://www.apple.com/support/tiger/network/
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=106658
Also select Mac Help from the Finder's Help menu and search on "printer sharing."
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Members may reward you with 5 points if they deem that your reply is helpful and 10 points if you post a solution to their issue. Likewise, when you mark a reply as Helpful or Solved in your own created topic, you will be awarding the respondent with the same point values.

AirPlay and cutting cable questions

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