Ambient air temp

Hi dear Imac Gurus,
I have replace my HDD by an SSD in my IMAC 27 Mid- 2011, but now when I restart my IMAC the CPU fan get crazy and blow at 3700 rpm.
This is not the HDD Fan It is the CPU fan and my Incoming Air temperature is 128 celsius degree just after the starting.
I have try to unplug the ambien temp in the bottom left corner of the mainboard but It does not Help still 128 degree.
Have you encounter that kind of problem ?
I have try the smart reset thing but It does not help
If someone can help, I am going Mad with that bloody Fan.
Regards
Jean-Louis

Bonjour Jean-Louis,
128 C, wow that is hot...obviously not a realistic number. Are you sure when you did the switch to SSD something did not get reconnected incorrectly? Have you tried running the Apple Hardware Test program to see if it detects a problem? It may be necessary to visit the Apple store genius bar and have the techs run their diagnostic software to see just what is going wrong, that temperature cannot be accurate.

Similar Messages

MBP C2 duo or MBP C duo

Sorry for the place of that topic but I can't add a new topic on the general Macbookpro forum.
I'm about to buy a new computer. I'll use it for video making, photo editing and MMORPG playing.
I hesitate between :
Macbook pro core duo (2,16 GHz), ATI X1600 256 Mo, and
Macbook pro core 2 duo (2,16 GHz), ATI X1600 128 Mo.
The fact is that I would prefer the first one (because of the video memory), but as I read in some forums, the second one gives almost the "same" results for video and better results for the other tasks.
Which one do you prefer (according to the way I'll use it).

having owned both now, I can say the majority of the reason a C2D runs cooler than a CD MacBookPro is due to change in default minimum fan speed:
2.16GHz CD - rpm = 1000 = approx. 58'C with 1 to 2% CPU load (core speed = 1333MHz)
2.16GHz CD - rpm = 2000 (smcFancontrol)= approx. 51'C with 1-2% CPU load(core speed = 1333MHz)
2.33GHz C2D - rpm = 2000 = approx. 50'C with 1 to 2% CPU load (core speed = 1500MHz)
So the C2D is running cooler slightly given that it has a higher default core speed (1.5GHz vs 1.33GHz) but there's not much in it.
Ambient air temp is about 70'F (20'C) here in Sacramento right now.
All measurements made with Hardware Monitor 4.0

G5 dual 2.7- 'slowness' and airport issues

Hi, I have a dual 2.7Ghz PowerMac G5, with 4GB of RAM, 2 500GB internal SATA drives, and 2 external FW800 drives (one 300GB, one 500). I use the system mainly for Photoshop work, and a bit of flash web design.
The system's been quirky as of late, and while it's not unusable, it is slightly annoying. Firstly, when the machine's been on for a while, I find it slows down significantly. Restarting it often takes some time, especially for the desktop to reappear. If I turn it off, leave it for a few hours, and turn it back on it usually runs fine.
Also, I have Temperature Monitor Lite running, and I've noticed that while doing some more processor-intensive tasks in Photoshop (eg. lens correction filter), the system slows down greatly while the temperature rises upward of 90ºC on processor A. It seems to be that it only used to get into the low 80's. As I'm typing this, it's a more normal 64.4ºC.
I've run the Apple Hardware Test CD and it says that there are no problems. I found that resetting nvram used to help with some of the slowness, but it seems to do relatively little now. Initially I thought it was lack of RAM, so I upgraded from 2GB to 4, which didn't help. I changed the HD out from the original 250GB to 500, and that didn't solve it either...
The other issue is my Airport connection. I usually get 1-2 bars, with the connection frequently dropping off completely. I've reinserted the card, and moved the antenna on the back of the computer a bit. Given that my 400Mhz G4 sitting a few feet away gets a full signal, as does my MacBook Pro, I'm not really sure if this is normal.
If anyone can shed some light on these problems, it'd be much appreciated.
PowerMac G5 Mac OS X (10.4.9) Dual 2.7Ghz, 4GB RAM, 2x 500GB HD's

When did you last do a full clean reinstall?
Do you ever run Applejack? Onyx? Disk Warrior?
How about a backup, erase, and restore? that also works for me, using SuperDuper or Carbon Copy Cloner (just be sure to run Disk Warrior afterwards).
Corrupt files, whether prefs, cache, or system, and definitely don't want problems with the directory, or with bad blocks.
Why boot from CD? setup an emergency boot drive or partition for running Disk Warrior (and maybe TechTool Pro 4.5.x).
For Photoshop you do want a "lean, mean" and clean OS, a dedicated scratch disk, another drive for data or media. And I'd add PCI-X eSATA for RAID. And keep everything not needed by the system on another drive (just OS and applications). Maybe partition your 500GB drive in half, or even use the two drives in boot RAID.
As long as the liquid cooling is working and keeping things cool.... and it doesn't sound like it is. How about upgrading to Hardware Monitor?
Is the ambient air temp mid 70's?
I would setup and install a fresh OS (maybe FW800) and see how a base system runs first.
Install Applejack, read the notes and use it to clean the cache files (I do that before any OS update). Just run FSCK command, then follow instructions on screen for Applejack - all done in single user mode to repair your boot drive.

865PE CPU Voltage Limitation? (also posted an P4 based board 2 days ago)

Hello everybody,
I already posted that at P4 based board, but I thought posting it here as well, as you're more likely to play with such settings and values.
I have a P4 2.4C oc @ 3.3GHz with [email protected] The only thing keeping me "down" here is that if I set Vcore to 1.9Volts or higher my system won't boot at all. The screen stays black, and the CPU surely doesn't work as it stays cold. Loading BIOS default values is a pain in the a... as insert won't work (for some of you this is delete for your mobos) and usually the only way is to turn the PSU off while the mobo tries to boot. Any clue why this happens???
-Is it a defect of the board?
-Is it a protection limit of the board? Then why it allows much higher values?
-Is it a defect of the CPU?
-A protection limit of the CPU?
-A PSU problem? I own a cheap (for it's watts) 550PSU.
Please help! I want more speed!
Thanx for your time reading this!

Quote
Originally posted by a_of
I have read other posts of people with high temperature readings, but I still don´t know if it is a sensor problem or the temperature is really that high. Ambient temperature here has not surpassed 20°C.
Your temperatures are too high, which leads me to think we and other pople have a sensor problem or something similar.
I think it could be a combination of things as I have just tried a few tests with and without my case cover on and the results are only 1C lower without the case cover on.
Currently I am getting CPU 59C Idle NB 39C Idle and only 3C higher under load. I think that if the ambient air temp is very high (like it has been in London for the past week) it causes the sensor to overload or go haywire as it cannot cope. I am pretty sure that the Intel thermal protection is very good (if it does not work they have to replace you CPU if it is under the 3 year warranty) so they must be pretty confident of its abilities.
The other thing to consider is that I also de-installed PC Alert4 and went back to PC-Alert3 which seems to be more accurate when comparing between the 2 within the space of a few minutes as PCA3 showed 10C less CPU & 13C less NB.
Probably a combination of PCA4 and poor sensor methinks.
I doubt if extra case fans will make a huge difference but will still another 1 in just in case as they are cheap.

HDD Fan stuck at a very noisy 5000 rpm - is this normal ??

I've had a Intel iMac for a while now (Oct 2006), and it's always seemed noisy but I just figured that was normal (coming from a jet-engine-fanned-noisy-PC background!). A colleague at work just bought one and he says his is really quiet so I started doing some investigation.
It seems the hard drive fan is always running at 5000RPM which seems VERY high to me. Temperature/fan speeds are :
Ambient air temp 27
CPU 1/2 core temp around 40
Disk temp around 31 (ie, not at all hot for a disk)
CPU fan speed 805
Optical fan speed 800
Hard drive fan speed 5000 !!!
The iMac isn't doing anything taxing at all. It's just used by my son who looks at web stuff and plays DVDs. The fan is running fast even on startup when the disk is cold.
I've tried resetting the SMC (unplug everything, leave it, then plug power lead in) and that makes no difference.
I'm sure this must be a fault, but before I take it into a service centre I'd like to be sure it's not something I can fix here
Thanks in advance for any help
Mike
20" Intel iMac Mac OS X (10.4.10)

I had a similar problem with my iMac. It turns out that my son was holding the power button in when he plugged in the power cord which caused the system to enter a programming mode where one or more of the fans run at high speed. I unplugged the system for about 20 seconds, plugged the power cord back in, and all was well.
Here's the article that provides the info:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=304602
iMac G5 20 (iSight) Mac OS X (10.4.2)

HP xw8600 workstation fans run at max all the time after upgrading CPUs and memory

Hello, This is my 1st post on the forums here so I would like to thank everyone for the help ahead of time. I have an HP xw8600 workstation on which I have upgraded the CPUs and RAM recently - after the upgrade the fans seem to spin at full speed all the time (not just under load). Before the upgrading the fans were barely heard but afterwords the workstation has become very loud. This seems odd that the fans always run fast now and seems like this is not "normal" - what needs to be done to allow the fans to again be modulated by load/temp settings as designed? I looked in the temp and fan RPM settings in the BIOS and it looks like all sensors are working (including ambient temp sensor - was stating around 20 deg. C). Hardware changes:Before - CPU: 2x Intel Xeon X5460/ 3.16 GHz, 12MB L2, 1333 MHz, FSB,120WRAM: HP 32GB (16x2GB) DDR2-667 ECC FBD RAM - using RAM riser After -CPU: 2x Intel Xeon X5492/ 3.40 GHz, 12MB L2, 1600 MHz, FSB,150WRAM: HP 32GB (8x4GB) DDR2-800 ECC FBD RAM - using RAM riser NOTE: From the HP spec sheet it says that 32GB(8x4GB) is not supported by 5492... I am not sure why this is so and do not know if this has anything to do with my fans running very fast. HP 32GB(8x4GB)DDR2-800 ECC FBD RAM RISER Supported ONLY w/dual processors
5272, 5472, 5482 HP 64GB (16x4GB) DDR2-800 ECC FBD RAM Supported ONLY w/dual processors
5272, 5472, 5482 and 5492.
Acoustics waiver required. Other than the constantly loud fans the workstation works perfectly with the new setup. Please let me know if anyone has run into this issue with the fast fans and whether there is a fix for this (maybe flashing BIOS?). Any advice is greatly appreciated! [I originally posted this under Desktops section - http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Desktop-Hardware/HP-xw8600-workstation-fans-run-at-max-all-the-time-after/td-p/3929746]

The xw8600 has a motherboard firmware setting that if it detects high powered processors in place it wants to see the "double tall" performance heatsink/double fans per heatsink in place. I have posted about that and how I rewired a double tall to use side by side in my xw8400 next to a single tall heatsink/fan to see how cooling was affected in that workstation. The xw8400 did not ever come with double tall performance heatsinks, to my knowledge, so its motherboard's firmware is different. In those posts I also explained how to do a simple jumper wire modification on a single tall heatsink to spoof the xw8600 into thinking it had a double tall/two fans in place over each processor. Simple and quick. So, you might want to get a couple of double talls off eBay, or try the jumper wire trick. I'd personally advise to get the double tall heatsinks given that you're running 150W max TDP processors. If I remember correctly HP wanted you to use the double talls for 120W max TDP and above. I'd feel comfortable using that trick on a set of 120 watt processors if I was not hammering them frequently, but it sounds like you're a high level power user. The all-fans-on-high can be due to a failed thermisitor in the front power cable reading ambient air temps too high, but you can check that in BIOS to see the temp and it sounds like yours is not elevated incorrectly. You can search for my experience with that in a xw6600, and it is an easy $8.00-$12.00 fix with a new cable off eBay. You'd want the longer version for the xw8600, versus the shorter one for the xw6600. Finally, maybe you've just gone too high in your total wattage use? Those risers can run hot and draw lots of power. Could you live with less ram and get rid of the risers using 4GB sticks? Sometimes those prior prohibitions regarding what is and is not supported go away with later BIOS updates. Is your BIOS the latest? Welcome, and let us know what turns out to be the problem so others can benefit too. Scott

Mac Mini Blue Screens

I have a MAC mini (late 2005) purchased Feb of 2006. It over heated and crashed within 7 months - that was September. Apple store put in new hard drive and gave it back with absolutely nothing installed - I couldn't even boot up. I am not computer savvy though I have used computers since I purchased the first of 5 in 1982. MACs have been good as gold until this one. I took the mini it to a MAC repair store and they helped me greatly. I put everything back on it and it has been running perfectly since until now, 6 months later - now I have another problem.
SOMETIMES - within the first 30 - 45 minutes the picture cuts out and goes to blue screen then within seconds returns. SOMETIMES - it does it once and SOMETIMES it does it 6 or 7 times. I truly believe it has to do with humidity or heat or something. The few days it has been at its worst have be very humid in this early spring. But last fall when I got it back from repair there were humid days and I did not notice a thing. This has only been happening in the past 3 weeks - a day here and a day there. After it goes through the first hour there seems not to be a problem. When I am surfing the web or using Adobe graphics programs the fan seems to run very loud and very long.
I have read the posts about fan heat etc. but my current mini does not go to sleep or cut out; it just runs so loud I think its going to fly off its pedestal but then it slows down.
Has anyone else had this problem? What did you do? I will be taking it in for a look see at the repair shop since I have ProCare; but I would like to speak intelligently when finding out the problem - if there is one.
Thanks so much for your input.
the Gizmoite
MAC Mini Mac OS X (10.4.7)

As long as you don't have "condensing humidity", humidity by itself should not be an issue -- since, unlike humans, the Mini does not cool itself by evaporation.
Air temperature and ventilation could be issues -- as could processor or hard disk intensive usage.
Given that your mini had a history of over-heating, it would be good to know what tasks you perform on the mini, and how much RAM memory is in it.
If the over-heating is not task related, then we need to look at ambient air temp and ventilation, and also consider whether the mini's heat sink is working properly.
Since you mention Adobe apps, it is possible that you are overworking the CPU and/or Virtual Memory system. Again, it would be good to learn more about how you use the Mini and how much RAM, since too little RAM would cause over-use of the Virtual Memory system (ie your hard drive) which might account for the earlier failure of the HD and the extra heat.
A useful statistic would be to open Utilities > DiskUtility and click on the "System Memory" tab and tell us what is reads for pageins/pageouts in the bottom left of the window. This would be especially useful after you are running your typical tasks.

Experiment with iPad in truck all day

I posted a question a couple of days ago about having an iPad in my truck all day in the heat. I did an experiment and got a little igloo ice chest and put a thermometer in the ice chest with nothing else in it and after a couple of hours the thermometer in the ice chest read 120 degrees. The next day I did the same thing but I put a gel pack in the cooler along with the thermometer and after a couple of hours I checked it and it read 60 degrees. The inside of the cooler didn't show any kind of condensation on it but I was wondering if I should wrap the gel pack in a towel just in case it started to sweat. I have a case for my iPad it's just a cheap rubber one that covers the back and the edges just because Im waiting for the otter box case to come out. Any thoughts or warnings about doing this before I actually do it? Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

A plastic bag would help...as long as it stays in the bag. The condensation occurs when the cold item, iPad in this case, is exposed to warm, humid air. As long as the iPad is sealed in the plastic bag, it is not exposed to warm, humid air.
Now, if you put it in a plastic bag and then into the cooler. When you take it out the condensation would form on the outside of the bag. If you then allow the computer to warm up to something close to the ambient air temp, that MAY reduce the formation of condensation on the iPad. I for one would be reluctant to try it at this time.

MSI 180 Desirable Temperatures

I have MEGA 180 and the temperature runs at about 55C when idle, going up to 62C under a heavy load.
What sort of temperature is "OK" for a CPU to be running at? Is there a maximum, minimum or ideal temperature?
Cheers.

What is your ambient air temp (room temp)?? If you're at 100 F, then you're fine. But, if you're at 0 F, then it's too hot. See what I mean??
In this forum we've established that the Mega 180 has heat issues. If you have no air conditioning and you live some place that has hot summers, be careful.

Mac Mini Fan Running Very Loud

Hello,
The other day whilst play Rome: Total War I noticed the fan on my Mac Mini (bought new in 2012 with fusion drive, quad i7 2.3GHz, 8GB Ram) was blowing a gale. I downloaded MagicanPaster to monitor the Mac Mini and this occurred every time I played RTW, or when I exported a file on iMovie. I know a bit about computers, but not anything about technical stuff so wanted to check that my Mac Mini was behaving within "normal" parameters. The MagicanPaster reported the following whilst exporting an iMovie file:
CPU
- 15% system usage, 58% user usage
- 260 Processes
- 1632 Threads
RAM
- 300MB Free
- 2.3GB Inactive
- 2.5GB Active
- 1.2GB Wired
Hard Drive
- Read 75MB/s
- Write 656 KB/s
Temperatures
- CPU 97oC
- Disk 32oC
The Temperature of the CPU is my biggest concern, but like I said I don't know if that's just what happens when using iMovie.
Thanks for any help,
Ashley

woodturner wrote:
Joe Bailey wrote:
I have the same Mac mini as you do but with 16GB of RAM. Normally in a room with an ambient air temp of 41℃ the average temperature of the four CPUs is around 55℃.
You actually keep your room 'normally' at 105 degrees fahrenheit, the equivlent of 41℃ ?
No the room temperature is more like 74℉ but the ambient air sensor in the Mac mini "sees" a temperature of 41℃ in its immediate vicinity which is inside the Mac mini enclosure. 105℉ is more like the Outside Air Temperature during the summer here in Texas.

MSI TwinFrozr III GTX 570 Power Edition - Modded Bios

Hi Guys
I am new to this site and this may have been posted but i was unable to find it after searching.
But is there any way to mod the bios of these cards to unlock the voltage further as the limit is 1.137mV in Afterburner
I can pump nice scores in the 3D Mark 11
http://3dmark.com/3dm11/1394544
but my other Brand card can run slightly higher voltage and can produce a better scores because i can run 1.150mV
http://3dmark.com/3dm11/1394620
I believe this beast of a card can go further with a modded/unlocked bios and push my scores even higher because the temps on this card remain under 60 Degrees Celsius @ 970/1940/2400 @ 1.137mV (I do run my fan @ 100% speed through my benching at all times to keep temps to the extreme lows)
Any help in the right direction would be much appreciated.
Cheers

Thanks a whole heap works like a charm - I am so impressed I will be recommending MSI cards/products from now on to anyone who is anyone.
HWBOT world record for GTX 570 is not outta reach now for me now im only short 74 points - WR holder is running 5.6Ghz too im only on 5.05Ghz.
BTW just to let you know running 1212mv with fans 100% i only hit 62 degrees Celsius (ambient air temp 20 degrees), with the help of a Scythe Kaze 3000rpm (134CFM) with airflow directly over the top and bottom the card. Highly recommend a Fan of this caliber to anyone who benches on air. Will post a pic of my setup for anyone interested in having a look very soon.
My other brand card is getting into the low 80s and is running lower voltage (1150). This is why I will recommend MSI to everyone now. MSI claims that the Twin Frozr III runs 18 degrees cooler, well this is 100% in check and I have tested this over another non-reference which I believe has very good cooling itself.
After sales support is 10/10, you just don't get this anymore from other companies.
SVET big thanks again for your effort.

Ibook fan works while charging + heating + wrong time indicator

Hi ,
i ll try to explain the problem, i dunno what to do with it.
Well, something is wrong with fan or battery , i plug adapter to ibook and fan is starting to work , the temperature is normal, shown 49- 51 C. My ibook is 7 month old , and it just started one month ago. So after charging , when it shown , that the battery is charged 100 % , working time indicator shows only 2hours of work , and it works two hours, which is not right, cuz it always worked not less then 4 h. It s not all the time , if i turn off computer or make restart or take away the battery or smth like that , it starts to work normally , and after while the problem repeats. Pls do not suggest me to calibrate battery or smth, i tried everything, if u ll have additional questins- ask , i really want to solve the problem!!! cuz it s annoying to listen to that sound and to realize that something is wrong with it.
best regards,
Anton Golovan ( Tallinn , Estonia )

Heat is the enemy of computers. What is ambient air temp where you are using the computer? Also, the iBook cools through the bottom of the computer case (it gets warm because it designed that way. Make sure air is circulating around the base (not sitting in your lap or on soft cloth). I owned my iBook for 4 months before I really even realized it had a fan. But, I keep my house cool in the winter. I guess as far as fans go, if the device gets a warm temp condition that needs the fan, let it run. Buy a second battery if you need longer life. You might want to look into one of those aluminum lattop bases that helps to absorb heat from the base of the laptop and dissipate it into the surrounding air.
The battery life indicator will change depending on the power consumption. For example, I am sitting here with a browser open, typeing this. Screen brightness is at 75% and the hard drive is off. It shows 3 hours and 41 minutes. If I were to play a video, this would drop to maybe 2 hours and few minutes. It all depends on what is going on with the machine. Stop the video it wil jump back up. Battery perfomance is also affected by temperature. When the battery is fully charged according to OS X, what does the indicator on the bottom of computer say (hit the button on the battery, how many green leds light). If not all the LEDs light the battery is not full charged and may need replacement.
The fan may becoming on with the power adapter because of your power settings. I have my power settings to maximize CPU and performance when on the power adapter. That is often enough of a difference to cause the fan to come on.
You have reset the PMU and recalibtrated the battery, so I don't think there is much you can do here. Is it just the battery indicator that is indicating only two hours and the battery lasts longer than that or does the battery indeed run out in 2hours. I am not clear.

15" MBP too hot to handle, gpu artifacting in 3d apps

Just got a 15 inch / 2.16Ghz mbp the other day. Machine runs most programs just fine, but the cpu is idling at 57-60 degrees celcius, and peaking at close to 80C under any kind of load. The chassis (bottom and top rear of computer) becomes too hot to handle (yes, it burns, common problem with these machines, as I have recently discovered), and when I go to play games, I get absolutely massive artifacting.
I even tried (when playing games under windows XP) underclocking the GPU... even more than apple did at the factory. It won't even run properly at 200Mhz core / 180mhz vram. (Normal speed for the x1600 gpu is 470Mhz on the core, apple has it set at just over 300mhz by default, the thing generates too much heat for the cooling system and generates massive artifacts in games even at 200mhz...)
Being a system builder and overclocker in the PC world, I have seen these problems before... but usually only after increasing gpu speeds well past their factory defaults, not slowing them down.
Given that the machine gets too hot to touch under load under both Mac OS X and Windows, and I cant play any games, I am . <-- that close to sending the machine back to apple and getting it replaced (Heard several stories of people recieving Macbooks which overheated, and getting replacements that ran perfectly fine), but before I do, I was wondering if anyone here knew of any solutions to the heat problem OTHER than...
a) the SMC firmware update (its already installed)
b) the thermal paste change (don't want to void warrantee, so opening the machine is out)
Seems silly to cripple a machine like this- if the fans just ran at a reasonable speed, it would be plenty-cool, but they just dont seem to turn on enough. I understand that there's a tradeoff between the thin/lightness of a package and speed, and was ready to accept a warmer-than-your-average-notebook chassis and slightly underclocked gpu, but having the thing burn me and prove to be incapable of rendering 3d content strikes me as being slightly unacceptable.
Anyway, any solutions that don't involve RMA'ing my new machine or voiding the warrantee would be most welcome. Thanks.

Just for the sake of satisfying my curiosity, I tried reinstalling the Apple-supplied GPU drivers.
Still no-go. Here's what planetside (a 3-4 year old game, by the way, nothing super demanding...) looks like after about one minute of gameplay!
[img]http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/9518/artifacts002fo6.jpg[/img]
Notice the... well, lack of WALLS where WALLS should be, et cetera. Absolutely massive artifacting. Thats under XPsp2 w/ apples drivers. Same thing happens using Omega drivers for the GPU.
Im going to run some loops of 3Dmark now just to document the issue a little better. Oh, and in other news, when Planetside is launching there is loud fan noise and airflow, but once I launch the game and start playing, the fans seem to turn off. Since the fan voltages should vary based on temperatures as measured by various sensors on the machine (usually a diode built into the CPU, plus whatever other sensors apple chose to install), it seems illogical that the fans should run when I go to load the game, or sit at the main menu, and then turn off again once I start playing. Temperatures should either remain the same in-game as at the menu or increase during gamplay due to increased CPU load.
Anyway... yes. If it continues to artifact in a benchmarking program like 3dmark, I guess I'll have to send the machine back. Is it true that they (apple) actually take your machine, take it apart, replace the logic board, and send your machine back to you? If so, I wouldn't have to worry about the harddrive I guess. Would be nice not to have to spend a day installing software and copying media again.
As for the purpose of the macbook... I really dont intend on using it as a "gaming machine" since I already have a desktop for that (which has a 2Ghz dual-core Opteron cpu installed which idles at 3-4 degrees C above ambient air temps on plain air-cooling I might add... and it's very quiet). I really wanted a laptop that was smallish, lightish, game-able laptop without sacrificing things like a decent CPU or optical drives, and well designed functionally. The MBP seemed to deliver in all these categories, and if the GPU would run properly at its stock speed, it would be the perfect machine for me. Quick enough to handle modern games like BF2 and Oblivion on "medium" graphics settings with playable framerates, small, thin, light, and able to boot OSX when I am not gaming (I do love OSX-- its like linux, but hastle free!)
Anyway. Yes. Time to request send-backage I guess. Anyone know where I can do that? (This "support" site seems to be designed as the ultimate decoy to protect apple's tech-support email addresses and phone numbers... lots of "did you try restarting your computer?" and "Are you sure your computer is on?" and "but its supposed to burn you a little" and such, but I can't manage to track down an RMA request phone number or email address. Maybe I should look through my box and stuff. Perhaps on the invoice or something. *shuffles off to dig through paperwork and miscellanious web pages*
Thanks

MacPro Temps OK?

Have seen several discussions in the Apple Support communities on high temps causing problems.
These Fahrenheit temps were taken at 'idle' with "Temperature Monitor" App v 4.96, on my MacPro 1,1 - Mac OS X (10.6.8), 8 MgRam,1-120G SSD,1-500G,1-Ext250G.
Am wondering if my idle temps are OK, or do I need to do some dust cleaning? Am not a gamer, video, graphics, or audio power user. Mostly Excel, Word, Web, and email.
75℉
Ambient Air
93℉
CPU A Heatsink
100℉
CPU A Proximity
91℉
CPU B Heatsink
97℉
Expansion Slots
81℉
Hard Drive Bay 1
82℉
Hard Drive Bay 2
81℉
Hard Drive Bay 3
82℉
Hard Drive Bay 4
111℉
Memory Bank A Point 1
131℉
Memory Bank A Point 2
120℉
Memory Bank A Point 3
108℉
Memory Bank B Point 1
124℉
Memory Bank B Point 2
129℉
Memory Bank B Point 3
172℉
Memory Module A1
176℉
Memory Module A2
158℉
Memory Module A3
140℉
Memory Module A4
160℉
Memory Module B1
174℉
Memory Module B2
158℉
Memory Module B3
149℉
Memory Module B4
176℉
Northbridge Heat Sink
118℉
Power Supply Location 1
115℉
Power Supply Location 2
99℉
SMART Disk Hitachi HDS725050KLA360 (KRVN27ZAKE8LNH)
86℉
SMART Disk OWC Mercury Electra 3G SSD (EX3G2012E22K7159)
91℉
CPU Core 1
88℉
CPU Core 2
84℉
CPU Core 3
84℉
CPU Core 4

john from palm harbor wrote:
...However, I'm wondering if running the fans at 1500 rpm default poses a potential risk of significantly shortened fan life?... ...This whole thing about heat is new to me. Have never dealt with it, even back in the day (1984) with my Mac 512 ($2800!).
Back in the day (1985), I couldn't deal with heat in my Mac 512 except to ensure that nobody put a book on top, which would block most of the vents (back then a friend, for whom I'd installed a video card and an external monitor on an SE/30 covered the SE/30 with a plastic bag to keep the dust out since she wasn't using the internal monitor any more).
What I've done with smcFanControl is to set up 6 different combinations of fans speeds for different usage scenarios and then periodically glance at the temperature in the menu bar. If it's going up, I'll just enable a faster fan combination. That way, if the room is cool and the Mac is loafing, I can keep the fans at a low speed, but if I'm processing a series of RAW image files using software which will assign as many images to process at once as there are cores to process them (the 2010 6 core will show 1100+% CPU usage when that's happening), I'll start with a higher fan speed set and go even higher if there's need to.

What is meant by system temp??

I see the system temperature reading in the BIOS, core center, sisSandra, etc and they all point to about 39c, but what exactly is system temp??? is it the northbridge temp or the ambient case temp???

Quote from: alzaeem on 18-October-05, 16:05:48
When i first start my computer the system temperature is like 30 and the CPU is 34, then after some gaming it can reach above 40 and the CPU above 50, i am going to buy a Zalman HS and AS5 for the CPU but i am afraid that its temp wont go dow much because the system is also hot, so is 40+ for the system OK??
Sounds fine,but the cpu above 50C sounds like you've overclocked the cpu?
Or your ambient room temp must be around 30C.
Pointing a fan at your mainboard blowing air from below can reduce the board(system) temp,but the best way is a powerfull fan to suck air out at the back.Also the powersupply needs a good cooling device,this can help a bit too since heat tends to build up in your pc case and modern psu's can get hot.
The zalman hsf seems a good choice.

Ambient air temp

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