AMEX Optima "Oasis" Rebuilding Program Any experience?

I am fairly new to this community and have found the information and advice found here to be extremely helpful. This past summer, I was offered and accepted into AMEX's "Oasis" credit rebuilding program, by being given an Optima card with a $900 limit, after AMEX closed two of my longstanding credit cards with them. I had a Gold card that I fell behind on payments on, and an AMEX JetBlue card that while current, AMEX closed due to the late paymenyts on the Gold card. Anyway, I'm trying to find out information on what exactly I can expect from AMEX with this Optima card. I've read conflicting info on the internet. I'd love to hear from anyone who is currently using the credit rebuilding AMEX Optima card or who has used it in the past. I'm wondering if I can ever request a credit limit increase or expect to be given a cli, and if so, when should I request/expect one? I did notice that there is a Request Credit Limit Increase button online in my account. Does anyone know if this would be a hardpull? Also, can I apply for another AMEX product while I have this Optima card or upgrade this Optima card to another AMEX product? And when should I attempt either? Any advice, as always, is greatly appreciated.

hudsons1 wrote:
I also have this card, and have had it for a year with $500 limit. Today I called for a CLI, asked for $1500. They took my info and said I would hear back in a few days. sjt wrote:
Repairman wrote:
Very cool. Thanks. Only thing I was confused by is whether you're saying I also have to wait a year to request a credit line increase. Or can I do that now (about 6 months in).The representative told me you can request a CLI and apply for another Amex product (without closing your Oasis Card) after 12 months. You may try and apply for a CLI or for another card and see what happens. It would only cost you a SP. Any updates on your CLI?

Similar Messages

Best Course of Action for AMEX Optima Oasis CLI

OK, so a little over a year ago, I lost most of my credit cards due to bad decisions, and was left with only an AMEX Optima rebuilder with a $900 cl and a BOA card, which they reduced my limit from $5000 to $700, and tacked on a ridiculous AF, which I never had before on the card. Anyway, fast forward a year later, and I have been learning so much from this board, and I now have a healthy credit profile with 6 total cards back under my belt. My question is...I have healthy cl on all of my newfound cc's ranging from $6000-$15,000, however, BOA and AMEX continue to stand out like sore thumbs with their paltry limits. I've tried getting BOA to increase my limit and to remove my AF and they've refused multiple times, so I've already decided if they do not remove the AF before it posts again, I will cancel that card, despite it being my oldest. However, I want to remain with AMEX, and am looking for advice on dealing with that low limit. Should I call them and request a cli on the Optima Oasis card? Is it worth the hit of a hardpull? Or should I just apply for a new AMEX, and if approved, with a decent limit, cancel the year old Optima? Or is there a better option? I just hate having these two extremely low limit cards (both with Annual Fees) in my file, that stand out like sore thumbs amongst otherwise strong credit limit cards. All advice is welcome. Thanks!

tomfromrictmame wrote:
Repairman wrote:
OK, so a little over a year ago, I lost most of my credit cards due to bad decisions, and was left with only an AMEX Optima rebuilder with a $900 cl and a BOA card, which they reduced my limit from $5000 to $700, and tacked on a ridiculous AF, which I never had before on the card. Anyway, fast forward a year later, and I have been learning so much from this board, and I now have a healthy credit profile with 6 total cards back under my belt. My question is...I have healthy cl on all of my newfound cc's ranging from $6000-$15,000, however, BOA and AMEX continue to stand out like sore thumbs with their paltry limits. I've tried getting BOA to increase my limit and to remove my AF and they've refused multiple times, so I've already decided if they do not remove the AF before it posts again, I will cancel that card, despite it being my oldest. However, I want to remain with AMEX, and am looking for advice on dealing with that low limit. Should I call them and request a cli on the Optima Oasis card? Is it worth the hit of a hardpull? Or should I just apply for a new AMEX, and if approved, with a decent limit, cancel the year old Optima? Or is there a better option? I just hate having these two extremely low limit cards (both with Annual Fees) in my file, that stand out like sore thumbs amongst otherwise strong credit limit cards. All advice is welcome. Thanks!I had similar circumstances and ended up with an AMEX Optima card. I rebuilt over the years knowing I wanted to do something about that low limit card. I was repeatedly told by the AMEX EO I would not be able to increase the limit on that card, my only option was to apply for a new card. When my credit profile supported it, I did apply for the AMEX card I wanted. I haven't used the Optima card in 3 years.Thanks for the response. So I guess the 1st thing I should do is call them to ask if it is even eligible for a cli.

Question: Do I need to run and anti virus program with MAC OSX Lion? Have heard different opinions! If so what would you recommend? Was looking at Sophos. Does anyone have any experience with this? Thanks

Question: Do I need to run and anti virus program with MAC OSX Lion? Have heard different opinions! If so what would you recommend? Was looking at Sophos. Does anyone have any experience with this? Thanks

Do I need to run and anti virus program with MAC OSX Lion? Have heard different opinions!
You will continue to hear different opinions here, where thoughts range everywhere between "anti-virus software is the evil spawn of Satan" to "anyone not running anti-virus software is a fool."
Truth is, this is still a very personal decision on a Mac. Depending on circumstances, it is still very easily possible to stay safe without using anti-virus software, but circumstances and personal preferences vary widely. Besides which, anti-virus software cannot even remotely provide you a guarantee of protection!
To learn how to stay safe (with or without anti-virus software), and how to decide whether to use anti-virus software, see my Mac Malware Guide.

Does anybody have any experience with keyloggers and a good program to detect one on your mac? I think I may have one.

So yesterday I found out that my email address password had been changed. I don't remember doing this, but it is possible I changed it a while back and considering I keep my email constantly logged in. But at the same time, two of my apps were trying to access their "store". I play a game called League of Legends, which has an online store, and it randomly came up with the message "Could not connect to Maestro" (credit card). Then, Itunes (which I rarely use) came up with "sorry, we could not continue with your purchase". I think it's very strange that all of this happened at the same time, but hopefully it's a case of a forgotten password and two games bugging/crashing. I scanned my entire computer with iantivirus and it hasn't found anything, but I've heard keyloggers can be a bit hard to detect. Does anybody have any experience with keyloggers and if so, what program did you use to detect and destroy it?

If you think that a keylogger has been installed the only safe thing you can do is erase your drive and reinstall.
I don't think that is the case however.

Best Course of Action for Low Limit AMEX Optima?

OK, so a little over a year ago, I lost most of my credit cards due to bad decisions, and was left with only an AMEX Optima rebuilder with a $900 cl and a BOA card, which they reduced my limit from $5000 to $700, and tacked on a ridiculous AF, which I never had before on the card. Anyway, fast forward a year later, and I have been learning so much from this board, and I now have a healthy credit profile with 6 total cards back under my belt. My question is...I have healthy cl on all of my newfound cc's ranging from $6000-$15,000, however, BOA and AMEX continue to stand out like sore thumbs with their paltry limits. I've tried getting BOA to increase my limit and to remove my AF and they've refused multiple times, so I've already decided if they do not remove the AF before it posts again, I will cancel that card, despite it being my oldest. However, I want to remain with AMEX, and am looking for advice on dealing with that low limit. Should I call them and request a cli on the Optima Oasis card? Is it worth the hit of a hardpull? Or should I just apply for a new AMEX, and if approved, with a decent limit, cancel the year old Optima? Or is there a better option? I just hate having these two extremely low limit cards (both with Annual Fees) in my file, that stand out like sore thumbs amongst otherwise strong credit limit cards. All advice is welcome. Thanks!

tomfromrictmame wrote:
Repairman wrote:
OK, so a little over a year ago, I lost most of my credit cards due to bad decisions, and was left with only an AMEX Optima rebuilder with a $900 cl and a BOA card, which they reduced my limit from $5000 to $700, and tacked on a ridiculous AF, which I never had before on the card. Anyway, fast forward a year later, and I have been learning so much from this board, and I now have a healthy credit profile with 6 total cards back under my belt. My question is...I have healthy cl on all of my newfound cc's ranging from $6000-$15,000, however, BOA and AMEX continue to stand out like sore thumbs with their paltry limits. I've tried getting BOA to increase my limit and to remove my AF and they've refused multiple times, so I've already decided if they do not remove the AF before it posts again, I will cancel that card, despite it being my oldest. However, I want to remain with AMEX, and am looking for advice on dealing with that low limit. Should I call them and request a cli on the Optima Oasis card? Is it worth the hit of a hardpull? Or should I just apply for a new AMEX, and if approved, with a decent limit, cancel the year old Optima? Or is there a better option? I just hate having these two extremely low limit cards (both with Annual Fees) in my file, that stand out like sore thumbs amongst otherwise strong credit limit cards. All advice is welcome. Thanks!I had similar circumstances and ended up with an AMEX Optima card. I rebuilt over the years knowing I wanted to do something about that low limit card. I was repeatedly told by the AMEX EO I would not be able to increase the limit on that card, my only option was to apply for a new card. When my credit profile supported it, I did apply for the AMEX card I wanted. I haven't used the Optima card in 3 years.Thanks for the response. So I guess the 1st thing I should do is call them to ask if it is even eligible for a cli.

Any experience with coolbook?

Does anyone have any experience with coolbook on the Macbook unibody? I am constantly running mine with one proc full out for hours on end and noticed that the CPU is at 80 C and the fans are at about 2.5k, so I figure if I could under volt a little I could get the CPU temp down a little. Pushing the fans up seems like a bad idea to me because that ages them faster.
Also, the idea of being able to keep the processor's speed down when I am not plugged in sounds good to be because I am almost never doing anything that I care to do quickly.
Also, does anyone have an experience with coolbook and apple care? i.e. getting heck from Apple b/c it was installed?

Hi Paul Bailey,
I just bought Coolbook for my 15' Macbook Pro Unibody (2.4ghz) yesterday. I recently asked your very question about Coolbook and warranty / AppleCare and the response I received from iVmichael was that it would be fine (thread visible here: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=10132068&#10132068 ). I read the Coolbook instructions yesterday and it said that Coolbook couldn't damage your processor. I did some experimenting with it and even putting the highest speed at the lowest voltage it would let me use on Coolbook only resulted in a kernel panic which just told me to turn the computer off, which I did. When I turned it back on, there were no problems at all so I don't think you'll run into problems with Coolbook or at the very least, that's been my experience.
I played around with the voltages a bit however I found that for most things I do, it didn't make a noticeable difference. I mostly just use my Macbook Pro for web browsing and email, which are already very well handled at cool temperatures by Apple.
I think the one thing to keep in mind is that even if by lowering the processor speed you're able to use less power through undervolting, you'll then end up with the processor working more time (eg. 2.4ghz processor will finish an encoding job much faster than a 1.8ghz processor) and that higher speed processor might actually end up being a better fit because once it finishes the demanding tasks, it'll underclock itself while the slower Coolbook-enabled processor is still working at most likely a higher frequency + voltage.
From what I've read, everyone's Macbook Pro will have different results with Coolbook, as some of the Intel chips are willing to run (and be stable) at lower voltages than others, so some people will get more (or less) benefit than I experienced. I was able to get mine to run at 2.4ghz while using 1.0625 volts instead of the default of 1.1375 volts, so my CPU is running about 7% more power efficiently now. I had similar power efficiency improvements experimenting with different speed/voltage combinations. One thing to watch when lowering voltages is that some people have experienced a Core getting disabled (because not enough power is flowing to keep both enabled). If lowering the voltage causes this, you might find your Macbook Pro getting hotter instead of cooler, especially if doing anything that on one CPU causes it to constantly work at it's maximum performance.
I'm not sure how much of a difference +7% CPU power efficiency would make in battery life, however mine seems to run about 2-3 degrees Celsius cooler which is nice, although it wasn't bothering me at the higher temperature. What I've heard mentioned in other threads on the Apple Discussion forums is that a cooler running Macbook Pro's battery should be able to go through more charging cycles than a warmer running one because of the effect heat has on the duration of a battery's life, so that's another definite plus.
For battery life, you should get a pretty good extension (better than Coolbook) by lowering the Macbook Pro's LCD/LED brightness to the minimum or as low as you can tolerate if you aren't doing that already. I've heard that even not having the keys backlit when on battery power can add about 45 minutes to battery life as well. For the $10 Coolbook costs, it's worth it in my opinion.
As for experimenting with fan speed, I definitely think it's a bad idea to have the fan running at max speed or ramping it up substantially over the default Apple settings. Like you said, it'll make the fan age faster and I've heard replacement fans aren't all that cheap (especially when you factor in labor). I really wouldn't know the answer to this, so I'm just speculating, however I personally would see fan failure resultant from smcfancontrol (or another fan speed program) as the Macbook Pro owner's fault and clearly not the fault of Apple if the fan were to fail because it's being used for extended periods of time at substantially higher speeds than it was intended to run at. I've seen some people say it wouldn't affect the warranty, however I think it's best that you contact AppleCare directly and ask just to be safe if this is something you're considering doing -- I haven't managed to come across an official answer from Apple.
What I think is a good idea would be to increase the minimum fan speed a bit. My Macbook Pro fans usually run at around 2000rpm, so by increasing the fan speed to 2200rpm, I make it run a bit cooler while presumably not doing much to shorten fan lifespan. I may perhaps even be increasing fan lifespan as it now takes longer before the fans need to run at a higher rpm because they're doing a better job at keeping the Macbook Pro running within it's designed thermal envelope.

Email crashes immediately at opening??? Any experience with this?

Email crashes at opening, we reinstalled software, no luck, any
experience or how do you contact apple support via email, can
not find a way on apple site to contact them??? Thanks
Macmini Mac OS X (10.4.9)

You’re welcome.
Disabling the junk filter was meant just to identify the problem. It’s clearly not an acceptable solution. If the junk filter is crashing on you, try resetting the junk filter database (Preferences > Junk Mail > Reset) and re-enabling the junk filter. If Mail starts crashing again, proceed as follows to thoroughly get rid of all the files used by the junk filter, so that Mail creates them anew:
1. If you have a .Mac account and .Mac synchronization of Mail data is enabled either in Mail > Preferences > General or in System Preferences > .Mac, disable it before proceeding.
2. Quit Mail if it’s running.
3. In the Finder, go to ~/Library/Mail/.
4. Locate LSMMap2 and move it to the Trash. This file stores information about what does and doesn’t constitute junk, and allows the junk filter to learn. Deleting this file is what Preferences > Junk Mail > Reset does. The file was called LSMMap in early versions of Mail; delete that as well if you see it.
5. Locate any MessageRules.plist (Mail 2.x) and/or MessageSorting.plist (Mail 1.x) files and move them to the Desktop. This is where Mail stores all the rules, including the rule that governs what the junk filter does.
6. Locate DefaultCounts and move it to the Trash. This file keeps statistics about the number of messages that have been marked as junk, either automatically by the junk filter or manually by the user.
7. Look for the account folders. The name of each account folder starts with the account type (POP, IMAP, Mac), followed by the account username and the incoming mail server. Open each of the account folders, locate the Junk.mbox or Junk.imapmbox folder within it, and move it to the Trash if present.
8. Go to ~/Library/Mail/Mailboxes/. Locate any Junk.mbox mailboxes there (their name may include the account name in parenthesis), and move them to the Trash.
Note: Steps 7 and 8 may be unnecessary. Also, messages in Junk mailboxes with an .mbox suffix are stored locally and will be lost forever as a result of doing steps 7 and 8. If there is a chance that you have legit messages there that you want to preserve, either try skipping those steps, or move the messages to another mailbox in Mail first, or move Junk.mbox to the Desktop (to be imported back later) instead of to the Trash. Junk mailboxes with an .imapmbox suffix aren’t a concern because they are stored on the server and Mail would rebuild them automatically.
9. Open Mail. As a result of removing the rules file, the junk filter will be disabled now. You may want to either shut down the Internet connection before opening Mail or take Mail offline immediately after opening it, to prevent Mail from downloading anything until the junk mail filter has been enabled again.
10. Go to Mail > Preferences > Junk Mail, enable junk filtering and configure it however you wish. I recommend choosing Automatic mode and leaving all the other options checked.
11. Go online again if you went offline in step 9.
12. If the problem is fixed now and .Mac synchronization of Mail data was enabled at the beginning, enable it again, go to System Preferences > .Mac > Advanced, click Reset Sync Data, and choose the appropriate options to reset the Mail data stored on the .Mac server with the data locally stored on the computer, i.e. sync data must flow from the computer to the .Mac server.
If the above solves the problem and you don’t have any rules you’d like to preserve or recreating them is not a daunting task, the files moved to the Desktop in step 5 can be deleted.
Note: For those not familiarized with the ~/ notation, it refers to the user’s home folder. That is, ~/Library is the Library folder within the user’s home folder, i.e. /Users/username/Library.

Any experience/suggestions with Oracle on Sun Storagetek 2540 SAN via NFS?

Hi,
Currently Oracle 11g is up and running on local drives. And we intend to move it off to Sun Storagetek 2540 SAN with Sun server 4140 (as NFS server) via NFS. So as far as the database server is concerned, it'd be NFS mount to the NFS server.
There's a new feature in Oracle 11g, Direct NFS Client, which is supposed to be more effective and more efficient than relying on O/S handling of NFS protocol. But in the white paper, it ONLY mentioned about NFS NAS scenario, not SAN. But I think it'd work with SAN as well, because as far as the database server is concerned, it's communicating to NFS server via NFS protocol. What do you think? Any experience/suggestions?
In terms of Storagetek 2540 SAN support, the Oracle's official answer would be "it's not supported unless the storage vendor and the storage device are listed in the Oracle Storage Compatibility Program list..." However, OSCP has been discommissioned in 1/2007, and Storagetek 2540 was introduced AFTER the date.
I think it MIGHT work given it's Sun/Oracle alliance.
What do you think?
Input/suggestion is appreciated,
Helen

My 3 year old linux installtion on my laptop, which is my NFS client most of the time uses udp as default (kernel 2.4.19).
Anyway the key is that the NFS client, or better, the RPC implementation on the client is intelligent enough to detect a failed TCP connection and tries to reestablish it with the same IP address. Now once the cluster has failed over the logical IP the reconnect will be successful and NFS traffic continues as if nothing bad had happened. This only(!) works if the NFS mount was done with the "hard" option. Only this makes the client retry the connection.
Other "dumb" TCP based applications might not retry and thus would need manual intervention.
Regarding UFS or PxFS, it does not make a difference. NFS does not know the difference. It shares a mount point.
Hope that helped.

Any experience while buying Adobe Developer Support case(s)?

Hi,
Adobe instead of answering Acrobat SDK related questions properly in this Developer's forum tries to push me/my company to become an Adobe Solution Partner and buy Adobe Developer Support case(s) to resolve all undocumented or better to say not fully documented as it should Acrobat SDK issues.
Now, I'd like to ask other developers here - do you really have any experience while buying those Developer Support cases? What is the cost of each separate one? Under Silver Solution Partner program you could get 7 cases, but need to pay about 1700 EUR, which is really huge cost.
And what is a separate Developer Support case? For example - solving a problem with Cyrillic text output and possible memory leak with JPEG generation (both issues reported by me and unresolved in this forum) will require 2 cases or could be solved via just a 1?
I'll really appreciate your answers on this topic. If someone from Adobe Sales could look at this - it would be great as well.
Regards,
Andrejus Chaliapinas
[signature edited by host]

Do you follow all my recent postings in this forum? If so - then you should understand that I don't expect to pay Adobe anything ahead (even with some mysterious REFUND possibility) in regards to its SDK usage. Otherwise - I expect Adobe to promote its SDK to all possible developers worldwide and tell everybody, that its state of the art piece of software and if we find anything suspicious in functionality - it will be fixed right away.
Of course I could switch to some Open Source PDF generation libraries (I'm aware at least of 2 of them), but why should I if I'm partnering with big customer who has Acrobat Professional Volume Licensing in place and thus it's already proven fact that Acrobat Professional license is bought and Adobe got money for that already.
Let me compare with IBM once again - they have such nice Design Partner Program in place (where my company is actively participating for last 3 years) and it costs my company 0 cents to use latest versions of some products and report issues for everything as well as APIs. Well, there is proper NDA for that, but Adobe could have that as well and I see no reason why not.
So, if this forum is mostly for some enthusiasts rather that for serious developers - then I could understand all those Adobe restrictions. But otherwise - really not.

ITunes update 11.0.2. is delivering failure 103 - any experience how to fix it?

iTunes update 11.0.2. (loaded automatically in the background and signaled in the App Store symbol is delivering failure 103 if I try to install it - any experience how to fix it?

Try just downloading and installing from the Support site - http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1614 - instead of the Mac App Store.
Clinton

My Mac is a 21.5-inch Late 2009 with a 1 TB Seagate HD that must be replaced, according to Apple support, but they denied me that right because the serial is not part of the replacement program: any suggestions to get a plausible solution to this problem?

My Mac is a 21.5-inch Late 2009 with a 1 TB Seagate HD that must be replaced, according to Apple support Panama, but they denied me that right because the serial is not part of the replacement program: any suggestions to get a plausible solution to this problem?
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The second question is about the powerpc support that is lost when updating from Snow Leopard to Lion X: I can not read my medical application UPTODATE.
I hope that there wil be some kind of support to help me solve that problem, this is my first petition actually.
Now, I do not have access to my yahoo email, intermitent access to Apple home page, unpredictable access to Apple store and no access to iCloud in my iMac: when I try to access these web sites, the blue web address bar is interrupted and never goes to the end, no filling up the whole bar.
I do not know what is the first problem, the Seagate HD or the Lion X, but my life is becoming a miserable one, not having the opportunity to enter in the raplacement program, losing the powerpc support because of the updating to Lion X, the necessity to buy Lion X again because it used to appear as a paid program, but not anymore, and finally having no access to my yahoo email, Apple home website and Apple store and no access at all to the iCloud: I am done.
Chao, Elías.

You can have Apple or a competent service shop replace the internal HD for a fee, unless you have AppleCare and the iMac is within its warranty period in which case it will cost nothing. If you must pay the cost will be approximately $350 US.
PowerPC support is gone with Lion. You can install or retain Snow Leopard on another partition, and boot Snow Leopard as necessary.
The inability to load web pages is a different problem, unless it is related to your failing hard disk.

Every time I try to export or publish my project it result in a error and closing de program, any idea ???

Every time I try to export or publish my project it result in a error and closing de program, any idea ???

Hi,
That link takes you to the Facebook for iPhone app.
You have posted in the Mac App Store for Mac OS X. (I know it's somewhat confusing especially with the new forum format).
Try deleting the Facebook app from the iPhone by pressing down on the app on the iPhone until it jiggles then tap the circle with an x in it. Then tap the Home button to stop all the apps from jiggling.
Now tap the App Store icon and and re download the Facebook app again.
If that doesn't make a difference, post over in the iPhone Discussions forum at this link.
https://discussions.apple.com/community/iphone/using_iphone
Carolyn

5300 RAM showing up as 3200 in Quad, any experience with this problem?

Hello, just received a 2 gig kit for my G5 Quad (2 - 1 gig sticks from Crucial). System Profiler shows it's speed at 3200, lower than the original 512 RAM which is 4200. Crucial says it will only reach 4200, but why is the new RAM showing up at 3200? Tried removing original RAM and only using the new, same speed displayed - 3200.
Has anyone had any experience with this oddity? Any idea if the RAM is not performing or the Mac is not giving accurate speed data?
Thanks, Steve

Memory identified as PC2600 in MDD
Symptom
Apple Hardware Test identifies the computer's memory as "PC2600" rather than "PC2700".
Products affected
* Power Mac G4 (Mirrored Drive Doors)
* Apple Hardware Test version 1.2.6
Solution
There is nothing wrong with your computer's memory. This issue is addressed in Apple Hardware Test 1.2.7. If you have version 1.2.6 and are experiencing this issue, contact AppleCare for a replacement disc.
Apple is aware of that. It first showed up in 10.3.0 and has been there ever since. The issue with the above DDR2 is I think different and unique.
With the MDD, Apple used Micron in the system I got, and I added Crucial. Both show up as '2600.'

Pc is not recognising PDF file ( icon ) in emails and to open these it is loading a 3rd party program on the web. I have installed Adobe several times. To open my files I need to drag them to my Adobe program. any ideas??

Pc is not recognize PDF file ( icon ) in emails and to open these it is loading a 3rd party program on the web. I have installed Adobe several times. To open my files I need to drag them to my Adobe program. any ideas??

Hi aadeshs
This problem is on my laptop running Vista ( Business) on Adobe 10.0 , for many years I did NOT have a problem with this . No forum Pages on this.
Also i would like to know how screen readers can better interact with PDF as my wife has difficultys on some email attachments on her laptop , again there seems no easy avenue for someone in her situation surfing websites and forums for Hours maybe ok ok for sighted people, but not if you are blind & use a screenreader. No Support Help from Adobe is available.
thanks
oliver654837

[Athlon64] Anybody has any experience with ATI Radeon XPRESS 200P chip sets?

Anybody has any experience with ATI Radeon XPRESS 200P chip sets?
I am looking to purchase a computer for my wife who does not require major computing power. And looks like ATI is a cheaper option. Any recommendations?
Any info is greatly appreciated.

Quote from: dannol48 on 23-June-05, 02:25:47
The RS480M2-IL haa a CnQ option in Bios.
Installing the AMD driver and setting the Power Scheme to "Minimal Power Management" in Power Options is required to enable CnQ in XP.
Danno
Hello Danno ^^¿''
Well, I just bought the RS480M2-IL with a Venice 3000+ and 1 GB DDR, I've tested the Video onboard(all the newest drivers installed) with the 3DMARK 2001, and I just can get 3052 ptos...so .. please tell if you has made some time ...and how's your score?
Oh man please tell me...maybe I made a bad choise but I was specting something better from this Mobo!!!...
thanks and enjoy the time
PD: Another thing: my modo comes with the bios ver. 3.4 ...and have "The Normals falis" son I don't really know wich ver, could be better....cya..

AMEX Optima "Oasis" Rebuilding Program Any experience?

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