Analog cassette to digital?

I hope I'm in the right place. I'm trying to convert my cassette tapes to digital and store then on my itunes. Any advice on types of cassette players, converter units, and or software to use would be helpful. Also any help in where to find info. on simple audio editing programs, etc. If I'm in the wrong place please feel free to tell me where to go . . .
Is GB the program I use to import the cassettes? Is there a converter unit for LPs? Does it matter if I import thru a USB port or the <audio input> on the back side of my tower? Any help or direction to info. would be appreciated.

Yes, you can use GB.
You can see here:
http://www.bulletsandbones.com/GB/Tutorials/TransferringLPs.html
Cassette is basically the same (but I don't think you need the Griffin iMic to do cassettes).
But for either cassettes or LPs I would use an interface unit (Firewire preferred) for better results. (You can find some interface suggestions on that site or at Sweetwater or MusiciansFriend, etc.)
And a good quality cassette deck should produce better results as well.

Similar Messages

  • Analog (LPs & cassettes) to digital Mac

    Hello, I just acquired boxes and boxes of old records (as with one box of old music cassettes) that were my dad's, and would like to convert them to digital files.
    Can anyone please give me some recommendations of what record/cassette players are available to be connected to a Mac, that you have found to be good, that work well and transfer very good quality analog music to digital files?
    Are all means to do so via USB, as I seem to have found? Wouldn't firewire be better? And do any exist that transfer via firewire instead of USB?
    As my info says, my computer is my trusty ol' eMac G4, but am upgrading (finally) to the current latest iMac by the end of the year (hopefully), if that will make any difference in any product's compatibility.
    Thank you very much for your time, and any helpful suggestions you can give to point me in a direction as a starting point to research and find the best thing out there to do this.
    All the best to you,
    JPH

    I can't tell you all the other possibilities, just how I did it and maybe what you could do that is similar. It looks like that computer has sound-in capabilities with microphone jacks. You can connect the output of a cassette player to the sound input of the computer and then use a recording program (e.g., Audacity, Amadeus Pro, maybe Garageband (never seen a copy so I don't know what it can do), etc.) to record the sound. Yes, there are USB (and maybe Firewire devices) that can do the same but that's added cost. When I did this originally I had a sound card on my G3 that took direct RCA input. I haven't done this in a while but I bought a used Dazzle USB video converter for $2 at a garage sale. I know it doesn't have the video support for Mac but the next time I'm up for this I know when I plugged it in as a test the Mac recognized it as an audio input device so maybe it will work for that. If you're going this route I suspect a USB2 device will suffice. After all, you're getting this from old tapes and records and 24bit 48k recording probably isn't worth it.
    If your output is a stereo cassette deck you can get an adapter to convert from the RCA to the minijack style plug. If your output is from a turntable you will have to run it through a pre-amplifier to get line level output. There are also turntables with USB output directly made specifically for people wanting to do what you want to do. Read the reviews. This was more than I wanted to spend and I also recall seeing some issues (lack of Mac support is common) in a quick read of a review.
    You'll probably end up recording a side at a time. This will result in large files and you will need to split up the tracks using the audio editor. I compressed mine with FLAC for archiving and made high-quality mp3s for daily use.
    Amadeus had noise filtering capabilities. Spin Doctor has this. Other much more expensive programs too. I tried SD and wasn't satisfied with the results so I hand edited the cracks and pops from my records with interpolation in an audio program. Took a long time but it didn't filter any part of the signal except the part I wanted.

  • Analog audio to digital software

    Any suggestions on a software to transfer from an analog cassette tape to digital. I have a converter box, just no software.

    So it connects to the mac using fiewire 800.  If you do that and open, say iMovie or Final Cut Pro (if you have that) what happens if you play around with the settings?  Can they see what they think is a "camera" or video input via firewire?
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  • Analog Signal to Digital a Primer

    Many users have analog material sitting around, and they would like to get it into digital form, so that it can be edited. As this material is below SD (Standard Definition) quality, I will address the methods for digitizing it, so that it can be best edited in a DV Project. The output can be a DVD-Video, or other format, depending on what one wishes.
    The process of getting this analog material into a digital form, is referred to as Capturing, and it is digitizing the analog material and writing it to a file, that can be edited.
    One will need some method of getting the analog signals into digital form, and for connecting the analog output from their analog playback device to the computer. Though the analog signal could come from all sorts of devices, I’ll use a VHS tape deck in this example.
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    The first two methods rely on one having a FireWire connection on the computer and will use the Capture module in the NLE software.
    The digital video camera route is good, as one already owns it. Having one with pass-through capabilities is getting more difficult. The camera also has to have FireWire (FW, IEEE-1394a, or iLink) output, and the computer must have a matching connection.
    An A-D bridge will do the same thing: allow one to connect the analog cables to one end/side, process the analog signals to digital and then output via FW to the computer. There are various such bridges available and two of the most often recommended makes/models are: the ADS-Pryo, and theCanopus/Grass Valley ADVC-110. Products, like the Dazzle lineup, just do not seem to work, or work well. I would avoid such.
    A dedicated capture card performs the same task, with one exception. The card will mount into an empty PCI slot on the MoBo, and have inputs for the analog cables. The card will have chips on it, to digitize the analog signals and feed these to the computer via the PCI slot. These do not connect via FW, but have one drawback: they must, in virtually every instance, use additional software to do the actual Capture, as most NLE’s cannot directly see and work with them. Some of the included software Capture programs are better, than others. One common issue with many of these cards is a loss of sync, between the Audio and the Video. This is usually static OOS (Out Of Sync), in that it is usually off by a fixed number of frames, and does not drift over time. This can be fixed in the NLE, but is extra work. This ARTICLE will give you tips on correcting OOS.
    Now, we are ready to begin the Capture, as our equipment and cables are all ready to go. We have a big decision in front of us - what format/CODEC do we use to Capture our digital files? Since we are doing an SD Project with non-HD (High Def) material, there is one fine choice: DV-AVI Type II w/ 48KHz 16-bit PCM/WAV Audio, using the DV/DVC CODEC. These files will be approximately 13GB / hour of Duration. Storage will need to be considered. These files are also I-frame, meaning that each “Frame” is rendered and available, so that frame-accurate editing is possible. The NLE will not need to do any processing, or conversion of these files, as even the Audio is ready for DVD-Video. Note: there will still be Conforming and the generation of PEK (Waveform Display) files, but the NLE will be able to do this quickly and efficiently.
    Using AVI Uncompressed will get you nothing that you can see, other than larger files. Do NOT use any compressed format/CODEC, like MPEG-2, WMV, MOV, etc., as these will loose data from an already inferior source, and will then need conversion to be used, either with a stand-alone conversion program, or internally by the NLE. You loose quality and then have more work to be done. Do not let the temptation of smaller files lure you into using anything but DV-AVI Type II, and just accommodate the larger file sizes.
    With the file format/CODEC decision made, the cables and devices hooked up, we’re ready to start the Capture. The exact operation will depend on what our equipment choice has been. See above for talk about additional Capture software, if one uses a capture card. Otherwise, we should be able to use the Capture module of our NLE. The first issue is that we will NOT have Device Control, as we would with a Capture from a miniDV tape-based digital camera, where we can control the mechanical aspects of the camera, during this process. As our VHS deck is hooked up to the A-D bridge, or digital camera w/ pass-through, via analog cables, our control signals cannot be sent to it. One would cue up the tape in the VHS deck, and then choose Record/Capture in the NLE’s Capture module, starting the Capture. Instantly, they would hit Play on the VHS deck, or via that deck’s remote control. This is easier the second time that one does it. I sit with the mouse in my right hand, poised over the Record/Capture button, and the VHS deck’s remote in my left hand, finger hovering over Play. It’s then a 1 - 2 push, and all starts. One can stop the Capture, if an unwanted section of tape comes up. The Capture module of the NLE will direct us on how to proceed from there, should more Captures be wanted. Some will just start up at a later point, and write an additional file for that portion of the tape, but some might require that one basically sets up a new Capture session One should investigate just what their NLE will require for doing multiple Capture sessions from one VHS tape.
    When done, one closes the Capture module, and then navigates to the location that these DV-AVI Type II files have been stored in, and Imports them into the Project. This differs slightly from doing the Capture from a miniDV tape camera, as those Captured files are already in the Project.
    Edit away, and Export/Share to the necessary output settings, file type and CODEC.
    What about those VHS - DVD decks, the ones that will burn a DVD directly from the VHS tape? They seem so simple to use, and for the most part are. However, those DVD-Video discs, contain pretty heavily-compressed MPEG-2 AV streams. These MPEG-2's, besides being compressed, are in aGOP structure and are muxed (Multiplexed into one file with both a Video & Audio stream), plus there is often some Menus and navigation in the first VOB, the main container components of a DVD-Video. Many NLE’s can Import the VOB’s, and basically rip the MPEG-2 out of them, but that first VOB can be highly problematic, due to the way that most of those decks do the Menus and navigation. It is seldom 100% DVD-compliant by the DVD-specs. This can be a major problem. This ARTICLE will give you some background and tips on DVD VOB's.
    Those dual-decks are good for doing one thing, regarding the DVD’s that they produce - provide one with an archival DVD-Video of the VHS tape, and not to be edited. However, the VHS side of these works well with an A-D bridge, just like a pure VHS deck does. I would strongly recommend that one does NOT use the DVD-Video portion of these, if editing will be desired. They cause many more problems, than they solve - just use them for an “archive” copy of the tape to a DVD-Video, for playback on a computer via DVD software or a set-top player, hooked to a TV.
    What about film? Well, film is obviously analog, and one needs to digitize this to edit on the computer. The process of this digitizing is referred to as telecineing the film. While one can buy equipment to do this, it is expensive, and involves a lot of setup and testing to get the job done. There are many service bureaus, that offer telecining. Some are better than others. The main considerations are: care in handling of fragile film, how the telecining is done, i.e. frame by frame w/ a liquid gate, or just by straight projection, and then output format for the digitized files. Some of these services will offer a DVD-Video disc. Do not be tempted to do this. See above. Others will offer to write these digitized files to a miniDV tape, and this is just fine. One does then need a miniDV camera, or miniDV tape deck, to then do the Capture from, but the quality and editability will be preserved. The final delivery format would be to put these DV-AVI Type II files onto an external HDD. This saves one from having to do the Capture from miniDV tape, having to have a miniDV camera, or miniDV deck, and only Importing of those files would be required to get them into the Project. Many of these service bureaus will either sell you the external, or use one provided to them. Check out specifications for things like format of the external. FAT-32 will limit the file sizes to ~ 4GB max, and NTSF will have no such limitations. However, if the service bureau is on Mac, and you’re on the PC, their Mac’s can ONLY see FAT-32 HDD’s. Talk this over with the service bureau first, so that there are no surprises later on.
    Hope that this helps,
    Hunt
    PS - also see this FAQ Entry for more detail.

    the_wine_snob wrote:
     Products, like the Dazzle lineup, just do not seem to work, or work well. I would avoid such.
    Although I now have a Canopus ADVC300 I previously used a Magix 'Movies on DVD' USB device. I found the results from this to be particularly good and, to my ageing eyes, I see very little quality difference.
    I think this is because Magix use their proprietary high quality codec (from their Pro products) to capture the footage. Like DV-AVI it runs around 10GB+ per hour. This can then, very simply, be exported to DV-AVI Type 2 for use in PRE. Note that there are some sound synchronisation issues with the 'out of the box' settings - but the fix is quick and I posted details to the Magix forum.
    Would I revert if I could return my ADVC300 bridge? Probably not - the firewire connection and the PC seeing the box as a camcorder adds to ease of use. In fact I am pleased to have both. There are some things Magix does better than PRE7 (batch exporting each scene as an individual DV-AVI file being just one) and it has smart-rendering which is handy for quick clip splitting/exporting.
    Cheers,
    Neale
    Insanity is hereditary, you get it from your children

  • Converting analog cassette tapes to CDs

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