Another Ext HD question

I have been reading other questions about the best drive and I have a few followup questions.
1) With the Mercury Elite Pro enclosures does it make any difference what drive you put inside? What would a recommendation be and why?
2) Comparing the Mercury Elite Pro with a 320 MB drive and the Iomega Triple Interface Black Box Series 300MB, what would be the best option?
3) Reading about the Mercury Elit Pro it says it comes with no software is that a problem or not?
Thanks in advance for the advise.

1) With the Mercury Elite Pro enclosures does it make any difference what drive you put inside? What would a recommendation be and why?
Based on this page:
http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/hard-drives/External-Enclosures/
It would appear the Mercury Elite Pro are for original IDE drives only. SATA drive are different and won't fit such cases, though OWC does have SATA cases if you are interested in that. The advantage of SATA drive cases is that you can later move the drive into G5 and Intel Macs which have internal SATA slots.
2) Comparing the Mercury Elite Pro with a 320 MB drive and the Iomega Triple Interface Black Box Series 300MB, what would be the best option?
A friend of mine has at her office some Iomega drives and says they are a much bigger headache and don't connect as reliably as other drives she has. OWC is well known for its Mac hard drive support on the other hand.
You won't need software. Most hard drives which come with software are only for firmware installation on PC. A few include backup software, and those that do often include only older backup software which may or may not work on your operating system. For the Mac I recommend Superduper as backup software, though there are other options on my backup FAQ:
http://www.macmaps.com/backup.html

Similar Messages

Another color management question

Hi folks,
Apologies for yet another color management question, but Im getting very confused and could do with some help. I use a Canon 10D and Canon 30D. Ive come to LightRoom from Pixmantec Raw Shooter.
As Ive gotten more serious about producing high quality images for both the web and as prints, I thought Id invest in the Colorvision Spyder2 calibration product. So my monitor is now calibrated (quite a difference from what I was seeing!) and I have a calibration profile applied.
My needs are pretty obvious I want my images to look the same wherever theyre viewed including exported files (such as JPEGs) whether this be on my monitor (in LightRoom, a web browser, Paint Shop Pro, whatever) and on a printer.
Perhaps Im getting confused because Im trying to compare what LightRoom does with what RawShooter does.
In RawShooter, when exporting from RAW to JPEG, I can specify the RGB Working Space Im using and then select my monitor profile. I think that what happens is that the export mechanism takes this profile into account and, low and behold, the JPEG looks fine when viewed in any web browser - the colours are exactly the same as in RawShooter. In Paint Shop Pro they look fine too unless I enable Color Management in which case (Im guessing) the monitor profile is, essentially, applied twice! But the upshot is I seem to get the results I want.
What I cant figure out is how I do this in LightRoom. I can make the same adjustments to the RAW image as I did in RawShooter, but there doesnt seem an option for me to select my profile on export to JPEG only the standard 3 color spaces. Anyway the result is a JPEG that looks somewhat different when viewed in a web browser, or Paint Shop Pro with Color Management turned off. However, if I turn Color Management on in Paint Shop Pro, then it looks fine. So Im assuming that my profile isnt accounted for when exporting JPEGs from LightRoom.
So any pointers or explanations would be really appreciated. I also acknowledge that this is my first foray into color management, and feel free to tell me to go and read some introductory article (link please!) and then come back with a sensible question if thats whats needed!
Thanks in advance.
- Pete

Lightroom color management.
a.) Monitor profile used: The profile set as the default in your operating system (e.g. Windows xp). (your monitor profile software usually does this when you calibrate/profile your monitor).
b.) Working space: ProPhotoRGB
c.) Export color space: You can choose one of the following sRGB; Adobe RGB or Pro Photo RGB.
There is no option (afaik) to change a.) or b.) the option you choose in c.) will affect how the exported image will be displayed in color managed applications or non-color managed applications.
Non-color managed applications are not able to display Adobe RGB or Pro Photo RGB correctly. I guess if you wish a consistent display of your images in color managed and non-color managed applications then the only common factor is sRGB and you should export your images in sRGB color space.
The benefits of the other expanded color spaces are in printing and you also would have to get this end of your color management correct. Printing profiles to match your printer and each paper being used etc.
Until you can get this all sorted out you will get better results from sRGB, this is also applicable when using most commercial printing services.

Another external drive question

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I've partitioned my WD 500 GB firewire 800 external drive into three partitions. My intention was to obtain a bootable backup in the first partition (100 GB) and have the other two as supplemental strorage for future use (200 GB and the remaining approx. 165 GB). After performing an immediate backup of the Macintosh HD into the first partition, I read that a "duplicate", not "backup" was required for boot purposes.
I'd really appreciate some suggestions here from those with more experience in these matters. My internal 500 GB HD has approximately 28 GB of used capacity currently (this will grow, of course, over time). Should I have created a partition for a bootable start up and "duplicated" the internal HD? Then, should I use a second partition for normal backups? What size should these partitions be configured to allow for maximum future storage, without pushing the limits on the backup/startup partitions? And finally, what are the steps to re-configure the external to achieve my desired intentions?
This is a lot of question, but I certainly appreciate the guidance provided me thus far in my early days of Mac enjoyment. Thanks.
iMac 24 2.33/3G Ram/500G HD/7600GT/BT K/M /WD 500GB FWHD Mac OS X (10.4.9)

Hello! Sounds like you have thought it out well. All you need now is to clone your main drive so it will be bootable. You can do that using CarbonCopyCloner, SuperDuper, or you can use the Apple Disk Utility you already have. A lot of people use SuperDuper and others swear by some of the others. Below are listed Kappy's steps to do it using the disk utility. I use several bootable backups just for peace of mind. I generally clone to one and then the other so if something happens during the cloning (such as a power outage) I'll still have a drive that works. I usually make a clone about once a month and then backup any important documents every day to a flash drive, cd/dvd, or another hard drive volume. Once you make a clone you should always boot from it to make sure it's booting ok. Sometimes a clone will fail to boot. I also HIGHLY recommend obtaining and using DISKWARRIOR. Diskwarrior is the "gold standard" for disk drive directory maintenance which is the leading cause of hard drive problems. Using DW about once a month or after any force shutdown, forced re-start, or power outage will head off most disk problems. Tom
Kappy's Steps to Produce a bootable clone
Prep external FW drive:
1. Open Disk Utility from the Utilities folder.
2. Select the backup or destination volume from the left side list.
3. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (journaled, if available) and click on the Erase button. This step can be skipped if the destination has already been freshly erased.
4. Click on the Restore tab in the DU main window.
5. Select the backup or destination volume from the left side list and drag it to the Destination entry field.
6. Select the startup or source volume from the left side list and drag it to the Source entry field.
7. Double-check you got it right, then click on the Restore button.
8. Select the destination drive on the Desktop and press COMMAND-I to open the Get Info window. At the bottom in the Ownership and Permissions section be sure the box labeled "Ignore Permissions on this Volume" is unchecked. Verify the settings for Ownership and Permissions as follows: Owner=system with read/write; Group=admin with read/write; Other with read-only. If they are not correct then reset them.
For added precaution you can boot into safe mode before doing the clone.

Backing up iMac and photos stored on an external drive to another ext drive

Hi
I have been searching everywhere for a solution to my back-up procedure. But there are so many different options and scenarios and I am getting so confused. At the moment I have an iMac with a 1TB HD. Very little of it is used up as all my photos are stored on a 1 TB external HD and managed through Lightroom. At the moment I am backing up both drives using Time Machine to another 2TB ext drive. I don't really feel comfortable only using Time Machine to back up all my photos. And maybe that is only because I dont really understand how it works, especially when it comes to overwriting the data (which I have not had to do yet - even though I have had my iMac for over two years and I have about 400GB of photos on my 1TB external drive). What I would like to do (but am not sure how) is have two identical ext drives with my photos on that I can swap regularly and also use between my iMac and my new MacBook Pro which I am getting next week. I want to continue backing up my iMac HD with Time Machine and possibly even have a bootable clone. It would also be nice to be able to carbon the 1TB ext drive to my 2TB drive alongside my TM backups. So I will therefore have two exact copies of my drive with my photos on it. And a back up drive with TM backups and a copy of the photos (in a separate folder or something). But I am so confused about what is the best way to go about this.
Thank you so much in advance for your help or taking the time to read this looong explanation.

Get carbon copy cloner to make an exact copy of your old HD to another one...
http://www.bombich.com/software/ccc.html
Or SuperDuper...
http://www.shirt-pocket.com/SuperDuper/
Or the most expensive one & my favorite, Tri-Backup...
http://www.tri-edre.com/english/tribackup.html
This last one can do everything CCC, SD, & TM can do, and so much more.

Time Machine - Backup from One Ext HD to Another Ext HD?

I'm sure this has been asked before but my searches have come up empty.
I'm currently setup on a 27" iMac (about 18 months old) and currently using Time Machine to backup my internal hard drive to an external raid setup. However, I keep all of my media files on an external hard drive rather than take up much needed real estate on my internal HD.
My question - is there anyway thru Time Machine to backup my external media drive to another extrnal drive, which is part of my raid setup? All externals are hooked up to the iMac and the iMac is recognizing all drives.
Or is Time machine limited in nature to only allow copying/backup from the internal drive to some other peripheral drive?
Thanks!!

Time Machine can back up from multiple volumes, but only to a single volume.
Internal volumes are backed-up by default; external volumes are excluded by default. Go to Time Machine Prefs > Options. The external should be listed in the exclusions box there. If it's shown in black, just select it and click the minus sign at the bottom. It will be included on the next backup.
If it's listed in gray, however, it's not formatted HFS+ (any variation of Mac OS Extended), Time Machine can't back it up, and you can't remove it.
If there isn't room on your external, and you can't expand the partition your backups are on, you'll need a different app, such as CarbonCopyCloner or SuperDuper.

Another check box question

For some reason all my songs have become unchecked. I don't know why. Is there an easy way to recheck them all. Rather than having to click in every box? It seems that because the aren't checked Genius will not recognize them. They were all working until today.
Thanks in advance

Flushkie wrote:
I copied 250 gig of music from my old pc hard drive to my desktop. I just imported them to iTunes by adding them to my library. Now that the music is all in iTunes, I can delete the large music file on my desktop?
This is another topic that should have it's own thread.
To answer your question. It depends on if you had <iTunes/Preferences/Advanced/Copy files to iTunes Media folder when adding to library> checked. If the files were copied then you have duplicates and the files on the desktop can be deleted. If the files were not copied then the files on the desktop ARE your music files.
Tracy

Yet another Try Catch question. Iterating through a ForEach loop

Confused on error handling in a Powershell ForEach loop. I’m looping through a list of registry keys, attempting
to open each one. If it succeeds, I do a bunch of stuff. If it fails, I want to skip to the next iteration.
If I was doing It in VBScript I’d do this:
For Each Thing In colThings
Open Thing
If Err.Number <> 0 Then
“oops”
Else
Do stuff
Do stuff
Do stuff
End If
Next
This is what I came up with in PowerShell. It seems to work, but just doesn’t seem powershell-ish. There must be a better way to use the catch output than just creating a $return variable and assigning it success or fail?
ForEach ($subKeyName in $subKeyNames)
try{$subKey = $baseKey.OpenSubKey("$subKeyName")}
catch{$return = "error" }
If($return -eq "error" )
“Oops”
Else
Do stuff
Do stuff
Do Stuff

I totally get what you're saying about formatting. I don't' have any habits yet, since I've only been working in Powershell since... well, what time is it now?
Unfortunately, It Has Been Decreed that we are no longer to use VBScript for any engineering solutions at work, so my 15 years experience in it now needs to be transitioned over asap. I don't have the luxury of crawling before I run. I'm trying not to be
frustrated, but it's like an English major waking up one day and being told "You must now speak French exclusively. Here's a book."
The Do Stuff example of my ForEach loop is about 50 lines of code involving matching values in subkeys of this registry key with another and collecting output. I tried wrapping the whole thing in a try section based on some examples, but it seemed odd, that's
why I'm asking. I'm used to tightly focused error handling at the point where an error may occur.
In this example I'm only interested in whether or not I can open the subkey (it exists, but I may not have permission). If I can't, there's no point in continuing with this iteration of the loop, I want to skip to the next one. So why include all the "Do
Stuff" in the the try section? From a readability viewpoint, it doesn't seem helpful.
Also, there may be more error handling deeper in the code. If I then put that in a try/catch, and then something else inside that, now I have nested try/catches mixed in with nested if/elses, all wrapped in a For loop.
Again, I can see how it works logically, but for readability not so much, and having all these braces 50 lines apart to match up is giving me eye strain :).
It sounds like David is agreeing with jrv, that putting the entire ForEach loop code into a try/catch is the conventional way to do it. I guess it makes as much sense as putting it all in an If-else-Endif, and I just need to adjust my paradigm.
But if not, my specific question was more along the lines of, is there a built in way to tell that the catch section has been executed, rather than me using it to populate an arbitrary variable and then read it? In VBScript, you execute something, and the
next line, you check the Err.number. I wasn't sure if you could do that with a try/catch.

Another canvas related question

Here is my scenario:
I have content canvas (say CC), a stacked canvas (SC) and a tab canvas (TC). On the CC, I have the TC always showing in the bottom half. In the upper half of the CC, I have some text items, list items etc always showing.
When the user selects certain options of the drop down lists in the CC and/or TC, I want to display the stacked canvas(SC) while still displaying the TC in the bottom half of the CC. SC has only a text item and an ok button on it. This text field is to capture the comments of the user. What I am trying to accomplish is to capture the user comments from the SC, assign it to a data block item when the user clicks on the 'ok' button on the SC and then hide the SC. Since there are multiple drop down list items in the SC and TC, I plan to re-use the same SC to capture the comments. Don't know if this is a good way to do it and if it can be accomplised or not. Any suggestions/ideas are appreciated.
The issue that I am facing is when I display the SC upon changing a list item in the CC, then the TC
disappears.Neither does the SC appear with the text box and the ok button on it.
1. I am using the show_view to display the SC.
2. For the SC properties itself, I set the
Raise on entry =NO, '
visible = 'YES'
3. All the canvases share the same WINDOW
4. My canvases are ordered in the following order
SC
CC
TC
5. Using forms 6i.
Pardon my ignorance about the workings of the canvases (I always struggled to understand how the various canvases work). Also, these questions were probably asked many times before....but figured might re-ask. Pls. excuse my laziness in this regard.
Questions:
1. Can I have all the 3 canvases showing at a same point in time? (does reports allow that?)
2. Has any one implemented what I am trying to accomplish? If yes, how did you do it?
Edited by: Megastar_Chiru on Jul 13, 2010 11:30 AM
Edited by: Megastar_Chiru on Jul 13, 2010 11:33 AM

If the "TC" disappears, maybe the SC overlaps it.
If the SC isn't displayed, try using a GO_ITEM('THE_TEXT_ITEM'); instead of using SHOW_VIEW.
Another option might be:
Create a second form and put the "comment-field" on a canvas in that form. In the WHEN-LIST-CHANGED-trigger where you actually show the SC, do a CALL_FORM to that new form to capture the users comment and proceed when the called form is ended.

Another .avi file question

Hi there,
I opened a quicktime movie in Mpeg Streamclip and exported to avi file.
I then burned it off onto iDVD for a customer. However, she could not open it as an .avi file from her PC (to put into power point) is there any way I can burn off a DVD in iDVD that allows another to extract the .avi file as an .avi file?
Thanks for any help!

.. thanks, what do you mean by PC compatible disc? ...
typical Mac-user question.. ;)) a Mac 'eats' all formats, a PC not.
depending on how or with what your burning a dataDisk, you are allowed to select a disk's 'format' ... if you're using the Finder (insert dvd-r, drag content on it, burn..) it will care to choose a format, a PC is able to read it ...

Just another cmp transaction question

Hi
I would like to know if it is possible to manage cmp transaction from the client code. For example I need to
execute some business method several times but I don't want the container to commit transaction after each execute but only if all executes were successfull.
Bartek

I think I understand your post but my problem is rather different. I have a session bean with a business method named process(..) that receives as an argument a org.dom4j.Document object and does an proper action. I works fine when that process() method is called only one . But now I wan't to call it several times , each time with different org.dom4j.Document perhaps and want to have tha transaction commited only after complete whole process. I am quite new I ejbs so it is possible that is quite a silly question but I need surety that the only way to do this is to make an another session bean business method that gets as a parameter for example a collection of org.dom4j.Document objects.
Thanks for help
Bartek

Ext hd question

I need a external hard drive to go with my mini, my question is what do I buy a networked one or plain.
My set up is 1 mac mini and soon a ps3 for my son (and me) both will be hooked up to a router/hub (wired), my goal for the external is to store home movies for viewing on the mini as well as be available for the ps3 to view on my tv so if a ps3 is on the same router as the mac will it see the external hard drive connected to the mini, or should i get a ext hd that has an ethernet connection and if so wouldnt that be slower than firewire.
Also the mini has 1 firewire connecton so if I get a ext hd with firewire how will i connect my digital cam corder?

Also the mini has 1 firewire connecton so if I get a ext hd with firewire how will i connect my digital cam corder?
Many external firewire-connected drives will allow a camcorder to be daisy-chained. However, if it doesn't, you can always simply add a firewire hub, which would allow you to share the FW port on the system with multiple FW devices in the same way that a USB hub will do for USB devices.

I know.. not another film look question, but here is goes...

Hi all i hope you can help me here.
Im used to doing safety, corporate, induction videos so Ive never been interested in getting the "film look" But now Ive got a music video to do and i really don't want it to look interlaced.
Now i did some test on my HVX200 25p, and read up on it a little. Which brought me to my question.
I know that when shooting with real film cameras AND HD 25p cameras there is the rule not to pan very fast because it becomes jittery. But when i did my tests outside with my HVX200 25p PAL on a tripod (no panning) my footage seem a whole lot more jittery that film movies i see on tv. Its so jittery i cant use the footage! im to scared to do the music video on 25p.
So now i want to know, am i doing something wrong? Is the shutter speed or the way you capture in FCP got anything to do with the jittery? Or is 25p just that jittery?
Another question. Does anybody have some tips to get a better look and feel to my music video? plug ins? or whatever?
Thanks so much for your replies.
Andre Meyer

Hi Meyer,
The reason I said your video still looks jittery is because you have not graded or used any additional adaptors on your cam. Turning on a progressive shutter alone will just make your VIDEO look like 24/25P video! The movement is greatly exaggerated! The point I was trying to make is that once you have graded your footage and if you are lucky enough to use a 35mm adaptor, much of that jitteriness (if that’s a word?!) will not be so noticeable. Remember, if it goes away completely, you are back to square one almost! Its about how acceptable you can get with the 3 components I was talking about in my previous post.
I dont own an HVX200, but I have a V1E (not as good as the HVX200) and I find the cinema Gamma not that great as a default.. I have to tweak it quite a lot to achieve the all important contrast and saturated colours. As for your HVX, just have a play until u get a look u like. The Cinema Gammas on the Cheaper Canons are dreadful and make the cam lose all their contrast! I guess this varies a lot with the mid-priced prosumer cams?!
You don’t need to own a 5D MkII (an ergonomic disaster in my opinion unless u have the full rail kit!) to have that 35mm DOF control. There are quite a few 35mm adaptors out there that have attachments for many types of video cameras. There are users in this forum I think that use these types of adaptors with the HVX200’s. However, such equipment is not cheap.. and of course a good quality stills lens’s are not exactly cheap either!
So to summarise:
1. Use a progressive frame rate 24/25P
2. Colour Grade to film... Best bet is to use Apple Colour... this is a really good colour corrector which has various preset that’s you can tweak and work pretty good as the film look. Of course you will need to experiment to get the effect u want. Alternatively, you can use Magic Bullet Looks.. which can be use used as a Plug-in to FCP, and is like Apple Colour on Steroids! It doesn’t offer the same amount of control as Color, but has some really interesting presets that can be easily tweaked.. and the good things is, this is all done without leaving FCP.. so its quick.
3. If you want to go the whole way and go for a 35mm adaptor.. then do your home work. Do you currently own a select of still lenses? Canon L series or Nikon Pro series? Of course u don’t need the pro lenses, but in this set up the quality of your stills lens becomes really critical! Take a look on YouTube and see the effect these adapter give, they can be quite amazing! Be prepared to spend over £2500 for the adaptor alone!
4. And of course, remember technique when shooting like this.. these adaptors do stop down your camera, you will probably have less light to play with. When u r tracking etc, DOF is really critical and can be difficult to master at first.
I don’t have any 35mm adapter, i try to achieve the film look by using steps 1 and 2..the result, well... its ok but often means I have to mess about with camera distances sometimes to achieve a decent DOF. Swings a roundabouts!

Another simple SQL question?

Can someone help me (an SQL novice) optimize this query?
Assume a table TRANS with four columns ACCOUNT, PURCHASE_DATE,
ITEM_NUMBER, and QUANTITY. (Fairly self evident names, I hope.)
I want to create a view that returns the most recent purchase
date for each account, and the sum of all items purchase on that
date.
The following works, but involves a sub-query, which I think
must be inefficient (the real table I'm working with has about
20 million rows, returning about 1 million rows and takes
hours!):
select unique a.account,
purchase_date,
sum(quantity)
from TRANS a,
(select account,
max(purchase_date) as cdate
from TRANS
group by account) b
where a.account = b.account and
a.purchase_date = b.cdate
group by a.account;
A second, similar query is to find the most recent purchase
date, by account, for each item, and the total quantity of that
item purchased on that date. But, hopefully, an answer to the
first question will lead me in the right direction.
Thanks!
Bob

Here is another batch of queries to test. The one on top is the
only one that is drastically different from your query or
anything that David already suggested.
SELECT account,
        purchase_date,
        total
FROM    (SELECT   account,
                  purchase_date,
                  SUM (quantity) total,
                  RANK () OVER
                       (PARTITION BY account
                        ORDER BY purchase_date DESC)
                  AS rk
         FROM     trans
         GROUP BY account, purchase_date)
WHERE    rk = 1
ORDER BY account
SELECT   a.account,
         a.purchase_date,
         SUM (quantity) total
FROM     trans a,
         (SELECT   account,
                   MAX (purchase_date) cdate
          FROM     trans
          GROUP BY account) b
WHERE    a.account = b.account
AND      a.purchase_date = b.cdate
GROUP BY a.account, a.purchase_date
ORDER BY a.account
SELECT    account,
          purchase_date,
          SUM (quantity) total
FROM      trans a
WHERE NOT EXISTS
          (SELECT 0
           FROM   trans b
           WHERE b.account = a.account
           AND    b.purchase_date > a.purchase_date)
GROUP BY account, purchase_date
ORDER BY a.account
SELECT   a.account,
         a.purchase_date,
         SUM (quantity) total
FROM     trans a
WHERE    a.purchase_date =
         (SELECT MAX (b.purchase_date)
          FROM   trans b
          WHERE b.account=a.account)
GROUP BY a.account, a.purchase_date
ORDER BY a.account
SELECT   a.account,
         a.purchase_date,
         SUM (quantity) total
FROM     trans a
WHERE    (a.account, a.purchase_date) IN
         (SELECT   b.account,
                   MAX (b.purchase_date)
          FROM     trans b
          GROUP BY b.account)
GROUP BY a.account, a.purchase_date
ORDER BY a.account
SELECT   a.account,
         a.purchase_date,
         SUM (quantity) total
FROM     trans a
WHERE    a.purchase_date =
         (SELECT /*+ INDEX_DESC (b my_index) */
                 b.purchase_date
          FROM   trans b
          WHERE b.account = a.account
          AND    ROWNUM = 1)
GROUP BY a.account, a.purchase_date
ORDER BY a.account

Another dumb overlay question..

hi, sorry to bother you all with a redundant overlay file question but ive scoured the forum and still cannot wrap my mind around this process and what i am doing wrong.
heres what i have done, following step-by-step the lynda.com tutorial:
1. import a 720x532 still of my menu BG.
2. i create my overlays, in this case, 3 white stars, next to my 3 menu titles.
3. i deactivate the visibility of the background, leaving a transparent screen with my 3 white stars.
4. i save as a tiff, as a copy (no layers). i have tried saving while ticking the "Save transparency" as well as without it.
5. i import the tiff file into DSP(v.4), set as Overlay File, then drag my button over the first menu title, but no star appears.
WHAT AM I DOING WRONG I AM LOSING MY MIND AHH!!!
please help, thanks in advance!
-brooks

Go back to your photoshop file, make the three white stars into three black ones instead, on a white background. Export this as a .pict file and use it as the menu overlay.
In DVDSP, draw out the button rectangles. Set the colours for the buttons to be simple overlay type, and set the normal state to be black and zero opacity. Now set the selected state to be white and full opacity. You can choose another colour for the activated state - try red - and also set this to full opacity.
What should happen is that the default button will start off with the star and moving from button to button will make the star appear on each as you go.

Another back-up question

I have three internal hd's -
one for OS & programs and Bootcamp - Seagate 7200.11 500gb
one for scratch disk - Seagate 7200.10 250gb
one for all my files - Seagate 7200.10 500gb. Mainly large RAW & TIFF files
I have two external drives -
320GB Lacie ESATA connection
250GB Lacie Firewire 800
I have just used SuperDuper to clone my OS HD to both external drives. I was going to use Time Machine on the 320 drive and just drag manually my files across to the 250 drive.
Is this an OK way to back up or should I get another internal drive and use that for TimeMachine and then Raid 1 my two external drives - I know the 320 will become a 250 - and just manually back-up my work? Will that be OK as one is connected by ESATA and the other by Firewire?
Since I installed the 7200.11 drive as my OS drive it does seem quicker. Would I benefit from another 7200.11 internal drive with my files on and then using the existing 7200.10 500gb internal drive as my TimeMachine folder?
If I use one of my Lacie drives for a manual back-up is there any point having them plugged in and on all the time? Would they extend their lifespan by not having them on all the time or do they like to be used?
Finally, I have an olde internal 250gb drive. Should I clone my OS drive onto this and then remove it from the MacPro and just reinstall it if I ever had a OS crash?
Sorry for all the questions.
Message was edited by: MarkLeary

Hi MarkLeary;
I would recommend against using RAID1. It is not a backup solution. I think it will only add more complications to an already complicated situation.
Personally having lived with the drag and drop backup solution in the past I don't recommend it. I think either Time Machine or SuperDuper is much better depending on your requirements.
If you are going to create a backup to one of your Lacie drives I would recommend that you create a clone. This will allow you to boot from it in the case of trouble. This can easily be done with SuperDuper.
Allan

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