Another HDV to DVD thread..Bonsai! please Read

Hey guys,
So I just finished my first HDV edited project. I shot it with a Z1U, edited it nativiely and its a 45 minute video, its huge. I have a ton of graphics from livetype (great little program) throughout the video as lowerthird fonts for here and there and lots of graphics over video. I have multilply video tracks and audio tracks. I showed my client the footage and she was so floored she feels like she owes me more money which she said she would give me.
Anyways. SO it looks good in my computer (powermac g5 quad latest everything, have no external monitor, just 2 23inch cinama displays)
but now i have to get it to DVD.
I just got back from my hospital where they remade my brain after it melted reading everything and anything on this site.
Now the only reason i am posting a new thread is that from what I read the only projects being discussed is for simply cuts and dissolves project and i wanted to know if the same guys for projects such as mine?. and most importantly, i couldnt find anything on the type of DVD I should be using for burning.
Quality is very important to me, but am aware of the money I spent. I want this DVD to look good. Ive read some guys talking about bitvice? to do my encoding? since im new to everything, would it be wise to buy something that does the hard stuff for me? or can it be done without that stuff? is there software out there that will do this for me?
how come apple can't realize there are hundreds of FCP editors and producers going bald early because they can't get off there *** and get one of their techies to write a book on this stuff?
Ive read so many methods but no conclusive info. I read the latest thread about testing everyway, and i currently am. Im doing the bosai dv50 method.
I've read alot of your stuff Bonsai but it seems like when you say you have it figured out and it looks awesome, you go back and try to do it better. I award you though and highly respect you not only for your hard work but for takingthe time and posting on this site. That goes for everyone on this site,
anyways, I need to stick my head back in the freezer, my brain has melte
d. It works!!! try it!!
P.S. Time is not really an issue, I mean it is, but I can talk my way out of it. My clients perfer quality over time, so even if the 1 thing that truley works takes 6 days, then it will take 6 days. I dont need a quick method if quality is sacrificed.

well, i'm a bit confused. first you claim your clients don't care about quality and wouldn't know it if hit them upside the head. now, it has to be the best. fine.
in the idvd and dvd studio pro forums there are countless threads regarding media. personally, i like tdk and taiyo yuden 8X discs, i've not burned a coaster since getting a new burner last summer and i've not burned a lot, maybe around a hundred.
regarding cuts and dissolves and layers, i'm not sure i understand what you're asking. are you asking about compression issues or presets or methods or what? if you've been following bonsai's threads, then i'm not sure why you're asking for more info as he's been very comprehensive.
i don't work with hdv, but the format is becoming more popular. how about if you test your ideas and methods and report back? you could become the hdv expert that is needed around here.
good luck,
zeb

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  • Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) BEFORE you post, PLEASE read this first

    PLEASE READ ALL OF THIS POST BEFORE POSTING ON THE FORUM FOR THE FIRST TIME!
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    Although I can get into Rescue Mode, I can't select any option, or the options don't work?
    If Rescue Mode is not working properly or commands can't be chosen the player is faulty. You need to contact Creative Support.
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    The Zen 20Gb is available from some shops in the USA and Europe e.g. Cambridge Soundworks, and Amazon.co.uk.
    Is there a known issue with the Zen Micro headphone socket?
    Creative Support have neither confirmed nor denied it officially. Some users have posted purported emails from Creative on the forum saying that the socket has been reinforced, but these have not been confirmed by Creative Support either. The exact incidence of the problem is unknown, but newer players seem to suffer less from it.
    Should I buy the Zen Micro or Touch etc. and what colour should it be?
    We can't tell you what player to get, or what colour it should be. Look at your collection size and the features of the player (see Nomadworld.com for the product pages) and decide yourself based on this.
    Why does my Zen Micro battery drain so quickly?
    The standby time (24 hours from turn-off) for the Zen Micro seems to use a lot more power than previous Zens. Creative have released both v (..0+) and v2 (2.20.05+) firmware that reduces the standby time to 4 hours. Make sure to update to one of these if you have a draining problem.
    Also see JazzMC's detailed page on this problem.
    Why is my Zen Micro/Touch Touchpad so sensiti've and/or difficult to use?
    The Touchpads take some time to get used to.
    continued below... Message Edited by SSR on 2-29-2005 04:03 PM

    7. Low Volume issue
    See here in the Zen FAQ at Nomadness.net.
    If the firmware will not apply because it says the version number is the same use the Reload OS option, access to which is described in the relevant FAQ for your player below.
    8. Nomad Primer
    If you have ordered, or just bought a Nomad Jukebox, Zen, or MuVo?, consider reading the Nomad Primer.
    It may be worth reading even for the more experienced User.
    9. Nomadness.net FAQ's
    General FAQ
    Jukebox FAQ
    Jukebox 2 FAQ
    Jukebox 3 FAQ
    Jukebox Zen FAQ
    MuVo FAQ
    Nomadness.net is the foremost peer site on the Web for the Nomad players on the Internet; with news, articles, web forum, download archi've, and more!
    0. Some more useful links
    Nomadworld.com - Creative Labs's International Nomad website (based in the USA)
    Player Manuals - Downloads of digital manuals
    Notmad Explorer - 3rd party software
    Battery Uni'versity - very good, comprehensi've site on batteries
    Chinese Support thread - with information on how to get chinese characters on your player
    . Wishlists and petitions
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    Also remember that the only collecti've public wishlist is maintained here at StainlessSteelRat.net (this is not affiliated with Creative Labs, but maintained by the author of this FAQ). There is also a bugs list here. So please
    Wishlists
    Zen Micro
    Zen Micro (another)
    MuVo Sports C00
    MuVo N200
    Petitions
    AAC support
    Lossless codec support
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    Track number duplicate checkAlbum art
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    Rename "Reload OS" to "Erase OS"
    Zen Micro alarm enhancements
    Zen Micro always visible clockZen Micro Audible support
    Zen Micro customisable standby time
    Zen Micro EAX
    Zen Micro radio enhancements
    Zen Touch non-PlayForSure firmware with bug fixes
    Zen Touch bookmarks
    Zen Touch EAX support
    Zen Touch random button changeZen Touch Audible support
    2. Suggesting changes
    To suggest changes to this FAQ please
    Thanks for reading!

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    Something new (or not noticed by me before) then as this thread appears as normal discussion in
    My Thread view. 
    Regards, Dave Patrick ....
    New UI has this functionality i.e. if you reply on a sticky, it will appears as a 'Discussion' in thread view.
    Regards, Santosh
    I do not represent the organisation I work for, all the opinions expressed here, are my own and posted AS IS.

  • Workaround for compressor HDV to DVD field issue?

    I need a work around for the field issue apparent when down-converting HDV to DVD.
    The Bonsai method <http://www3.telus.net/bonsai/Welcome.html> will not work, as there is too much motion and a side effect of the "fastest" conversion is that it gives a 3-d ghosting effect on fast motion in the frame.
    I can not convert to 720P60 or 480P, as FCP converts it to 30P and then doubles the frames, and the motion is jittery.
    I could dump it to camera and then down-convert in camera, but I have heard this is not a great method either.
    I have seen in another forum to save the HDV timeline in FCP as a HDV quicktime movie, and then import that into DVD studio pro and have it down-convert, but DVD studio pro says this is an "incompatible file".
    How do I get 1080i HDV footage onto a DVD so that it looks acceptable?

    I had a similar problem with HDV (1080i shot on Cannon HV-20) footage, looks great in post and terrible when converted (herringbone lines and too many artifacts.) I’ve successfully used the Bonsai method on another piece I did but the footage was shot on a HVX-200 at 720 24p and there were no “action” shots. I wasn’t as successful using the method using 1080i footage and it definitely didn’t help with the fast motion shots. I did a search in this forum on HD to SD and there are a lot of helpful hints and methods. I experimented with a lot of the suggestions but in the end I was able to produce very nice and acceptable results by doing the following:
    1] I didn’t create an SD sequence; I exported the footage as a Quicktime movie (self contained) straight from my HDV sequence.
    2] I dropped the Quicktime file into Compressor and selected 90-minute DVD Anamorphic Best 2-pass VBR. Running Compressor from Final Cut ties up your system as well as there seems to be a delay between the handoff from Final Cut to Compressor (running the latest 5.x version and 2.3.) Creating a Quicktime file frees your system and it’s debatable if you actually compress faster or take a hit on quality. I’ve tested both from Final Cut and using a Quicktime file and didn't see any real difference in quality.
    3] Change the field dominance from Top to Progressive in the tab where you see 2-Pass VBR Best and also in the encoding tab (not in front of my system so I can’t recall the name or order of the icons). In the encoding tab you will notice it says “same as source.” The pull down will show you Top, Bottom, Progressive, Automatic…I tried them all and in various combinations and anything other than progressive in both tabs produced undesirable results.
    4] The options for Fast, Good, Better and Best in the other encoding pull down sections are a matter of preference and patience. Selecting Best in all categories takes a really long time to compress (36 hours for a 9-minute piece using a Mac Pro 3.0GHz dual-core Intel with 4GB ram.) I ran tests using different combinations and found that selecting the default settings is decent and stepping each category up to the next level helped but not enough to warrant the long compression cycle to stick with Better across the board. When you do your testing, it’s best to use as little footage as possible or you will find yourself waiting too long to see the actual results. I used a 1-second (29 frames) shot of a girl twirling around, hair flying everywhere, and girls next to her using hula-hoop’s.
    5] Use the sliding bar in the viewer to see the impact of your choices before submitting the job. To the right you will see the “original” footage and to the left you can see the results of your selection. You can move the bar across the footage to see (approximately) the end results.
    6] One thing I did notice is that no matter what settings I use, the output is slightly darker (reds were deeper, skin tones were warmer and not as smooth), but hey, you are going from HDV to SD so it’s not going to be perfect.
    Hope that helps and good luck.
    Kenny

  • Users with NoClassDefFoundError & nested jars - PLEASE READ!!

    A hell of a lot of the traffic on this forum is to do with getting a NoClassDefFoundError while trying to access classes that are inside a jar within your own jar.........please please please read this if you're having this problem, it will explain what's going on, and will save you from having to post the same question for the millionth time!!!
    Unfortunately you can't embed jars within a jar and expect them to be referencable for the classpath from outside the main jar. The "Class-Path" attribute in the manifest is used to refer to other jar files outside of your jar file.
    The usual approach to solve this problem is to unpack the jar files you want to embed and then rejar everything together in one big jar file again. This isn't always a great approach though, I know I'm looking for an alternative. So far my only alternative is dynamic class loading using a classloader, however this isn't great if you need to refer to several hundreds or even thousands of classes.

    As I replied in another post (http://forum.java.sun.com/thread.jsp?forum=22&thread=416726&tstart=0&trange=100) I think Sun should really add this capability to the JVM itself. Perhaps a new file format, .aar (for Application Archive) that the JVM DOES read embeded .jar/.zip files from. Even if it is only one level deep, that would be extremely helpful. I have built a plugin engine and originally was packaging my plugins in .jar files. But if a plugin "wraps" a library like ant.jar or something, you are out of luck, the plugin has to be un-archived to the disk for it to work. We came up with a solution, which is a .par file (for plugin archive) that does embed everything, but the engine itself at runtime un-archives the .par file into a "working" directory behind the scenes. While this does work, the main problem is if you deploy an app with a lot of plugins it takes a while to un-archive everything before the app initially starts.
    Our next step is to do what Carter says, build a custom jarjar classloader. That is, we'll extend URLClassLoader, and in the loadClass() call (for our plugin engine we break the normal go to parent loader first tradition) we'd have to "scan" a plugin .par file for any .jar files. If the .par file contains .jar files, we then retrieve those and scan them in memory for the class we are looking for.
    As I explained there are no doubt several ways to make this fast. The classloader would want to keep a list of all packages found and in what .jar/.zip they were found in, so as more classes within the package of a given .jar are asked to be loaded, the engine knows exactly what .jar/.zip to jump to. Also, OS hd caching will most likely take affect somewhat thus if many classes from the same .jar file are required it is possible that .jar file would be cached and multiple i/o access will not take place.

  • Green line on left side of HDV-to-DVD footage

    I am editing 1080p30 HDV footage. I get a faint green outline around the frame when I use Compressor to create the DVD M2V file.
    This only seems to happen when I use Frame Controls - which I need to use, otherwise the footage comes out full of aliasing. So I need the resize filter.
    What is a green edge a symptom of? What am I doing wrong here?

    I just got done doing a fresh Snow Leopard install along with the new FCS3. Tonight I finished my first project (HDV 24p) and when I went to run it through compressor to go out to DVD I noticed the same thing.
    I feverishly tried exporting with with dozens of different settings combinations. FINALLY, I found turning OFF frame controls fixed it. I'm glad I found the source of the issue but, like you, am a bit upset I can't use frame controls when I want higher quality output for my HDV>SD DVD downconversions.
    As bad as this sounds- I hope a lot of people are having this issue that way Apple will acknowledge it and publish a fix.
    PS Slightly OT but....I checked Compressor on another machine (latest version that was with FCS2) and it seems Frame Controls were OFF by default. Now they seem to be ON by default.

  • HDV to DVD-Change Field Dominance Or Not?

    A search I did recently pointed to this article:
    [http://www.larryjordan.biz/articles/bkhdvconvert.html]
    The author claims that when exporting an HDV sequence from FCP to Compressor, he changed the default field dominance from Upper to Lower, resulting in a better quality DVD, smoother motion, etc.
    There wasn't anything wrong with my HDV exports using the default upper dominance, but I decided to try it, just looking to squeeze out any improvement I could.
    The results were terrible; awfully jerky motion, dot crawl across the top of the image, etc., so I went back to using the default.
    But then I thought, I wonder if the improvement the author saw was because he exported an HDV Quicktime Movie first, then put that into Compressor and switched the field dominance . . .
    I usually export my HDV timeline right out of FCP to best quality DVD in Compressor, without the in between step. Just wondering if anyone else has tried it the way it's mentioned in the article, and if it's made a difference for them.

    Wow, this thread was way back there;
    Anyway, I use a Sony V1U, and shoot 1080i60, and I had been getting acceptable results, but was just looking for a bit more detail.
    After reading the article, I sent a finished project to Compressor both ways; 1st with the default upper field dominance, and then again changing it to lower, as the article recommended. The default upper file looked pretty good, but the 2nd time with it on lower looked terrible; all kinds of motion displacement.
    I've been using the default since, and have not tried it the other way since that first time. When I get time, I'd like to try exporting a QuickTime movie first, then put that into Compressor with the switched lower dominance to see if there's any improvement that way. I usually just export directly to Compressor from the timeline.
    I appreciate the comments, and I'm always interested in any setting changes that might squeeze out some more detail when going from HDV to DVD.

  • Qosmio F30-112 - DVD drive can't read and burn some DVD's

    Hey everybody!
    Here is the problem: My DVD-ROM won't read some DVD's it won't burn. In Nero when it start burn error pop up and the message is: Power calibration error
    I've alerady tried with all testers for burner and reader and they all didn't found any problem. They said that burner and reader are working correctly. I even reinstalled Windows Vista couple of times end it still show me that error and it won't burn or read some DVD's (which I tried to read another computer and there was no problem). I tried to clean it with cleaners and nothing.
    I think that problem started since I updated firmwire F103, but I'm not sure...
    Help please.

    Hi!
    Was the firmware update made for your CD/DVD drive or do you have anohter one? In my opinion the drive could be faulty due a wrong firmware
    But before you exchange the drive you should try to remove the upper and lower filters in Windows registry:
    1) Start Regedit (Start -> Run -> Regedit)
    2) Go to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Contro l\Class{4D36E965-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318}
    3) In the right pane, delete the "UpperFilters" key, and delete the "LowerFilters" key.
    4) Reboot.
    Bye

  • My iphone 5 doesn't sync with itunes on my pc. it says this computer has  previously been synced to another io6 device or iphone? please help what to do?

    My iphone 5 doesn't sync with itunes on my pc. it says this computer has  previously been synced to another io6 device or iphone? please help what to do?

    The error message you're seeing is likely the other way around -- i.e. something like "This iPhone has previously been synced with a different computer".   There's no problem syncing multiple iOS devices to the same computer.
    However, the reverse is not true for the iPhone --  you cannot connect an iPhone to another computer without it being erased, even if you manually manage music and video.  So, it sounds like you've been syncing your iPhone to a different computer?
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