Aperture 2.1 - Prints Dark

I finally got to print by downloading latest printer driver for my Epson R380. However all the prints come out darker than the preview screen. Never had this problem with Aperture 1 and can't seem to correct the problem. Anybody have a solution?

Typically, when I've seen this it is because you have not calibrated your computer. A laptop is not ideal to say the least for luminance issues because you can tilt the screen and get different appearances. Set the screen to a specific angle, and calibrate, or if you dont' have calibration hardware, just darken your screen a few notches. My Mac Pro 23" Apple display is very dark when I calibrate it, but the prints match.

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Printing Dark Area in smartforms

Hi All,
I am having problem with printing graphics in Smartform. In preview it is okay.. But when I print it ..it is just printing Dark black area. I am expereincing same problem with Table Hedings. Please let me know ..What could be the error.
Thanks in Advance.
Good Wishes
Venkat Reddy

hi,
try this out...
Go to transaction SE78.
SAPSCRIPT GRAPHICS --> STORED ON DOCUMENT SERVER --> GRAPHICS --> BMAP
Enter the name of the graphics file on the right side and Go to the menu GRAPHIC --> IMPORT.
OR
RUN THE PROGRAM RSTXLDMC FOR UPLOADING THE IMAGE AND THEN IN THE SCRIPT GIVE
:/ INCLUDE ZLOGO OBJECT TEXT ID ST LANGUAGE EN.
HOPE THIS HELPS,
THANKS,
PRIYA.

PS CS4 printing dark; LR 2.2 printing fine

Printing with the same profile, same intent, same computer, same printer. PS and LR do the color management and the printer doesn't.
At some point with CS3, PS started printing dark. This has carried over to CS4. Lightroom printing is fine.
Ideas? I don't have a clue.
Thanks, Hal

Hi DYP,
I apologize if people thought I was making political or some other kind of statement. Yes, help is what I'm after.
OS: 10.5.5
Printer: Epson 2200
Driver: 3.09 (found that in /Library/Printer/EPSON/InkjetPrinter/SP2200.plugin)
LR 2.2: in the Print Setting, I'm using No Color Management and in the Print Job panel Color Management is set to an appropriate profile from Ilford matching the paper, inkset, and printer, Rendering Intent is Relative.
PS CS4: Color Handling is set to Photoshop Manages Colors, the same profile is being used as in LR, Rendering Intent is Relative Colorimetric.
Driver settings: Color management is set to No Color Adjustment
I've tested with the same photo on several occasions. I typically use a working space of ProPhoto RGB. Images look the same in both PS and LR on screen.
Haven't done anything with a control photo. Don't know anything about them.
I profile the monitor monthly with a Spyder.
When I say that the prints look dark in PS compared to LR, I'm guessing it's around 2 to 3 EV darker. Color is OK.
A few months ago, when I profiled my monitor (iMac), I set the gamma to 2.2 on advice from others. At that point, I noticed that my prints were dark. I subsequently profiled it back to 1.8. I believe that printing with PS CS3 was fine at that point. I wasn't printing with LR then. I upgraded to PS CS4. I may have changed my default color space from Adobe RGB to ProPhoto RGB. But, I would think that it would just get out of gamut issues if this was the problem.
Thanks, Hal

Printing dark black line using lbp2900b

Hi iam facing problem with my canon laser printer lbp2900b...
It is printing dark line on left side of page ..i could not understand what is problem in it i cleaned everything but still it prints like that ...
I have uploaded the sample print out. Could any one guide me to fix this issue
http://postimg.org/image/klxckvjj1/

The mfc-8460N is a Brother product, you may have better results looking on the Brother support site.
Bob Headrick, HP Expert
I am not an employee of HP, I am a volunteer posting here on my own time.
If your problem is solved please click the "Accept as Solution" button ------------V
If my answer was helpful please click the "Thumbs Up" to say "Thank You"--V

Moving from Corel Ventura into InDesign CS4 - prints dark

My company has been using Corel Ventura for years, up to version 10.   We are now switching in InDesign CS4, but everything is printing dark. We use it to publish black & white manuals, including some photos & vector art.
Ventura had an essentially unmanaged color workflow - everything was set to generic - i.e. - "Generic RGB" & "Generic CMYK"
In Indesign, currently we are using "North American General Purpose 2". The files are printed to a postscript file in InDesign.   Then made into a PDF via Distiller. The settings for the PS file & Distiller we are using came from LightingSource.com.
I was assuming that the problem came up in the creation of the PS file - under Color Handling - it is set to "Let InDesign Determine Colors". So I took the other option & used "Let PS printer determine colors"   The pages print lighter now, but they are actually too light. I'm not sure what to try next, given that any direct alteration of the printer setup is out of the question.
Any help would be great!!!
Lighting Source Settings - http://lightningsource.com/ops/files/premedia/PSsettingsINDcs4_PC_int.pdf

Not knowing more, this is a possible solution if you have Photoshop:
1. In Photoshop with no documents open: Edit Color Settings. By CMYK, Custom CMYK. Black Generation "Maximum"
2. Hit OK, but NOT to the whole Color Settings dialog, just the Custom CMYK dialog. Again in the CMYK pull down, "Save CMYK" Put the profile in your Color Sync folder where InDesign will recognize it. After you save it CANCEL. You don't really want to alter your Photoshop color settings, you just want to create the Max Black Generation profile
3. In InDesign. Create a top most layer on master page. Create a white box to fill the whole page. Set Blend Mode to "Color" Lock the layer.
4. Change the transparency blend space to RGB (Under Edit)
5. Assign the new Max Black CMYK profile to the ID document (Edit: Assign Profile)
6. Check with Separations Preview, you should have K channel only
7. Export PDF/X1a. By Output: Destination: "Document CMYK." You must flatten transparency when you output PDF, and X-1a will do this. The PDF result will be black and white, K channel only. Verify in Acrobat.
This process converts an all color InDesign document to K only CMYK. Dot Gain will be standard 20% but can be changed in step 1 when you create the custom CMYK.
Any grayscale images placed should not be affected by this workflow.
This process is the closest thing I know of to grayscale color management in InDesign.

Pixma Pro 100 printing dark and muddy

Hi,
I have seen several threads about this and tried to read those over and learn from them first but I'll admit to being so lost.
I've had the printer since August and previously had a PC with Windows 8. Since December, I've been using a Mac. With both computers, though, I always got dark and muddy prints, especially with blues and greens. I have installed drivers and looked for any software updates and the Canon website says I'm up to date. But when I go to print something, in the drop down box there are two options for paper - plain and photo. With my PC, there were a dozen or more options (matte paper, glossy paper, art paper, etc.).
I have installed ICC profiles from Red River Paper, as I did with the PC.
On a previous thread, I saw to go to Canon My Printer and then to settings. I'm guessing that's software? I don't seem to have that on my computer. I looked online and it came up on various software download sites but not the Canon web site. I am leery about installing from one of those web sites so I didn't.
After reading another thread, I went in to PhotoShop and selected a different color space (Adobe 1998).
I apologize for being so lost but apparently I am in need of super-simplified instructions. I cannot seem to figure this out. It's so frustrating and discouraging. I appreciate any help!
Thank you!

First, you must not let the printer set anything. Turn off every bit off control it has. You can do this with the Canon My Printer under the Printer Settings tab. Do you know how? I will guess, yes, for now but if you don't get back to me.
Second, you need to have your photo editor (like Photoshop) handle all the settings and color matching. You know how to do this? I prefer Photoshop.
And lastly, it is essential you get some settings on your monitor that somewhat matches what the printer is printing. Your printer may be doing exactly what you are telling it to do and you have no idea it is, because your monitor is so far off. If you don't do this step, you can forget the other steps. However, there are only a few things that you need to be concerned with. You don't need any fancy extra add-ins to do this. No additional software or gadgets, no spiders or monkeys, etc.
But you must get the gray-scale very close. You need to get the brightness very close and you need the contrast very close.
Most folks set there brightness way too high by default. This presents a big problem when judging prints. You need to judge your prints in good light, preferably daylight. Again they may be correct and you don't know it.
After you do these things you can make adjustments to your prints by just looking at your screen. Because you know the monitor and printer are on the same level. One more point, you can NOT get a printer to print every color exactly the way you saw it. It isn't possible as all colors and adjustments effect all others. My goal is to get the skin tones right. That is what people notice most. Remember you are dealing with two different disciplines here. One is colored light and the other is colored dyes. They are not the same thing.
For instance, I know my Pro-100 tends to print darker than what I see on the monitor (typical for most users). So, I automatically know to set it's prints 1/2 to one stop brighter in Photoshop, in my case. It also prints with a slightly warn tone. Most of the time, with portraits especially, this if OK but sometimes it is not. In that case I adjust the "temp" setting slightly cooler in PS.
All the Canon photo printers I have ever seen have this warm/magenta cast. Canon engineers must prefer this look. It can not be changed. You need to "fix" it in post. You will also likely see a color tint even in your B&W prints. This is normal.
Make sure you have the correct ICC profiles and you are using Canon brand ink and paper until you get good with the printer. Very, very important, otherwise you don't know if the printer is doing exactly what you are telling it to or not. This is a must!
Important to, use the USB connection until everything is right. You are just adding another issue when you try to set up the printing and the wireless all at the same time. Just like using Canon branded products until it is a go. Use a real printer USB cable. Not just any old USB cable.
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 9, Lightroom 6

My Canon PIXMA MG2120 prints TOO LIGHTLY. How adjust to print DARKER?

My Canon PIXMA MG2120 prints TOO LIGHTLY. How adjust to print DARKER?

That's not really the answer.
The problem is that it will print at the correct saturation/quality only when borderless printing is not used. I purchased this item because I wanted to be able to print full color borderless prints on a full 8.5x11 sheet of paper. I don't want to have to buy special glossy photo paper just to print borderless. Is this the truth of the matter? You cannot print borderless prints on plain paper without sacrificing significant quality? Does it always assume when you set it to borderless, whether youre in the standard print menu or the photo print menu, that you're printing a photo and it will then default to printing lightly? This is outrageous. They should say something about this in the manual.

Can Aperture option to print photos on a stronger paper, Can Aperture option to print photos on a stronger paper

Can Aperture option to print photos on a stronger paper, Can Aperture option to print photos on a stronger paper

This is determined by your printer, and the print profile you use. It is not determined by Aperture. Consult your printer documentation for information of what thicknesses of paper are suitable, and how to use them.

Using Wireless printer 4500 series and prints dark from laptop but light when sent from a phone?

I am using a wireless f4580 printer i believe and when I print from my laptop the item print dark but when I send items from my Iphone 4 to the print they print so light you can barely see them and I just replaced the ink so I know it isn't that. What am doing wrong or what do I need to do? thanks in advance.

Do you see any advanced options for managing print quality, like "Economode printing" or changing print speed (draft, normal, best etc.) while printing from Iphone4? If yes, then choose options to give best print output.
If there are no options available while printing document, then you might need to see if you have same document or same document properties & contents (font - size, color, etc.) while printing from different computers.
Please mark the post that solves your problem as Accepted Solution
Click the 'Kudos Thumbs Up' if this was helpful. Thank You!
(Although I am an HP employee, I am speaking for myself and not for HP)

Images adjusted in Aperture 3, exported as JPEG printing dark.

I have been exporting JPEG files to a professional print vendor and the prints I receive back are much darker than the images I am seeing in Aperture 3. On my screen, the Masters and Versions look great. The prints I get back look under exposed. I have friends who use this same print vendor with no problems adjusting their images in Lightroom. I have tried adjusting my display, through System Preferences to SRGB. no luck. I also created an export preset to adjust the print size to 8x10, that hasn't worked for me either.... Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

You do need to adjust your display... in fact you need to calibrate your display.
The #1 cause of "prints too dark" is "monitor too bright." You need a setting in the 100-120 Cd/m^2 for your monitor. And there's really no way to get that without actually measuring it, using a hardware calibrator. Alternately you could try reducing your monitor to 50% brightness and see what you get, but it's sort of a waste... if you care about results, a hardware calibrator is the only option that's workable.

Print dark from LR

I have just started printing from LR and my photos are incredibly dark.
I have turned off the option printer to manage and selected my paper and printer.
In the colour Management box, I have increased Brightness to +46 but still much darker than the screen.
I have read a lot about possible that my screen is too bright but I have been printing from Aperture and photos are ok and don't believe it is my screen brightness.
Is there anything else that I can do?
thanks
john

Hi Jim,
Thanks for your response.
The colour management has been turned off and chosen the right paper.
I am unsure what you mean though by soft proofed so could you please explain. Is this not something you do in the Development module?
As for the screen brightness, is there a way to check the levels you feel are correct? In my mac I have a brightness control that goes up to 15 and it is on 4 and don’ t believe that is too bright
But interested in further clarification/help.
john

R220 bad printing(dark)

hi everybody..
i've read a lot of posts regarding this issues but i'm not getting it right, i'm afraid..
i have really dark prints from my epson stylus photo r 220 when i use profiles from aperture and color controls off. bp compensation on or off very slight difference, gamma adj 1,30 that as i read here is exaggerated setting, but still too dark.
if i use printer's driver caolor controls set to adobe rb prints are really much better, even if some colors are a little different than on screen..
i calibrated my monitor using pantone huey and yes i use soft proofing with same profile as the one i use to print ( r220 PGPP from epson's site )
monitor gammae and temp are 2.2 and 65k..
really can't see what i'm doing wrong..
help please!!

hi thanks for reply.. yes this is all using epson inks and epson premium glossy photo paper..
the R220 profile is quite useful for on screen proofing, but maybe i don't have the right profile for printing.
can you please tell me exactly what are your settings and if you are on an R220 too?
maybe i can find where i'm wrong..
thanks

Aperture won't print to fill page!?!

I had followed a couple threads on this topic and have come to a very aggrivating conclusion:
Aperture printing will NOT let you set the border size smaller than the LARGEST print border your printer has. So my Epson printer which can print to within 0.12" within all edges except the bottom, which can only go to 0.56", is FORCED to print within 0.56" along EVERY EDGE.
The result: I can't even print an 8x10 within Aperture because it forces me to have even borders.
I can't believe it. This MUST be FIXED.

Very odd, there was a problem with this a few versions ago (I think even 1.0) but printing on my R800 allows me to adjust the border as low as .13 inches.
I suppose one possiblity might be that you need to reload the printer drivers...
On a side note, since you have an r1800 make sure you have the latest icc profiles possible, using the ones here:
http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/EditorialAnnouncement.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=yes& oid=59082650
For the r800 the premium profiles are here:
http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/EditorialAnnouncement.jsp?oid=51716719
I just thought I'd bring that up since I had a rough time finding where to download the icc profiles alone for Epson.

Photos print dark

Photos on my HP Photosmart 8250 print too darkly. The display on my Gateway NV53A is calibrated correctly. I can pull up a scanned photo and it matches exactly. A print will be several shades darker.

Your printer driver may have color management options:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00294120&cc=us&dlc=en&lc=entake a look at thi
007OHMSS
I was a support engineer for HP.
If the advice resolved the situation, please mark it as a solution. Thank you.

DPI and PPI in Aperture 'Export' and 'Print' windows

Hi,
As mentioned in an earlier post, I just bought an Epson 3880 printer and some Epson Hot Press paper, so now I have to pay attention to PPI (term used for displays) and DPI (term used for printers).
In Aperture however, files being exported require DPI specs(!), while files being printed require that we specify PPI specs. How is that?
Also, my Epson manual indicates that I can print at 5 distinct "DPI" settings, from 180 to 2880. My Aperture Print window, however, only offers 3 options with 360 "PPI" as the highest (considered Draft quality by Epson - if "DPI"), plus a 4th referred to as Custom.
Also, I have a note jotted down a while back that says: "1440 dpi for most papers with 240 dpi files, at 2880 if 360" - whatever that meant 6 months ago at an Epson 3880 seminar, before I got the printer.
Can you guys sort this out for me? Please?
Thanks a lot,
Raphael

I'm not at my studio. My current driver is 8.x. The newest driver is 9.33. My remarks here may not fit with your more current version of the driver (but that would surprise me — the printer came out about 4 years ago, iirc).
The profiles are not, afaik, included with the driver, at least when you download it from Epson's site.
There are two profiles for each Epson Fine Art paper — one at 1440 and one at 2880. You should try each with every kind of print you make, and determine which is better. IME, _for my needs_, 2880 was never worse. I use the 2880 profiles.
The profile is selected from the "Color Profile" drop-down at the top of the "Rendering" section of Aperture's "Print" dialog.
(Set "Render Intent" to "Perceptual" for, in general, photographs or anything with smoothly graduated changes in color. Set "Render Intent" to "Relative Colorimetric" for, in general, graphics or anything with smooth areas of constant color and sharp transitions between areas of color. Generally, if "Render Intent" is "Perceptual", check "Black Point Compensation"; otherwise uncheck it.)
Leave "Print Resolution" at "Auto". I know of no reason to ever change this. (I don't, in fact, know what this control does, and have never changed it.)
When you click "Print" in Aperture's "Print" dialog, a short dialog opens asking you if you want to save any changes you made to your Preset. I always save my changes. Prints often need to be immediately remade — all transitions of data from electronic to physical media are problematic — and I like to return to my Preset ready to print the same Image(s) again.
When that dialog closes, the OS print dialog opens. Your 3880 printer should already be selected in the "Printer" drop-down. You need to create and should save an OS Preset for your paper. Note that on the "Color Matching" page (this dialog has pages, not tabs; direct complaints to Cupertino), all (two) options should be grayed-out. This indicates that Aperture is handling color matching, which is what you want (for best prints and anything approaching a color-calibrated workflow). On the "Paper Handling" page, the "Destination Paper Size" drop-down is grayed-out, but should show you the selection you made in the Aperture Print dialog. The "Printer Settings" page has two tabs. On the "Basic" tab, in the "Media Type" drop-down, select your paper ("Fine Art Paper ▹ Hot Press [Bright or Natural])*. The "Ink" drop-down should be grayed-out, but show "Matte". Matte is proper selection for Hot Press [Bright or Natural]. This dialog knows this from your color profile selection in the Aperture Print dialog. Chose "16-bit" output and any other options your want (you can experiment; I find no difference). I ignore the warning about print quality at the bottom area — this has never been an issue. On the "Advanced" tab of the "Printer Settings" page, it should tell you that "Epson Driver Color Management is Off". That's what you want. You want Aperture to manage the color.
Save your OS print dialog Preset. Use it every time you print to the same paper.
*If you cannot select your paper, you have not selected the correct paper size in the "Printer" section of Aperture's Print dialog. Note that the "Paper Size" selection includes not only the paper size, but also whether the feed is by sheet-feeder or manual, and whether or not the print is borderless. (I didn't design this; I assume there are reasons to have shoe-horned these options into the "Paper Size" selection.
This is all tricky on top of being actually complex and next to being new. It takes everyone time and mistakes (read: ink and paper) to canalize a flow that works for producing the prints they want. I hope this gets you there a little faster. Report back with what doesn't work.
—Kirby.

Aperture 2.1 - Prints Dark

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