Apple ImageWriter II Printer Stuck on Power On
Hi, I just reclaimed an ImageWriter II from the garage, but when I turn it on it makes a horrible groaning/grinding sound, and the print head fails to move. It seems it's stuck and can't return to the home position.
Any ideas on releasing it?
ImageWriter II User's Guide: http://manuals.info.apple.com/en_US/0302002IWIIUG.pdf
"When the Error light blinks on and off, look for either of two causes. The front cover may be loose or off. Correctly seat it and press the Select button to continue. If the front cover is not the cause, check for paper or print mechanism jams."
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Windows 7 Driver for Apple Imagewriter Select 360 Printer
Does anyone know where I can get a Windows 7 driver for my Apple Imagewriter Select 360 Printer?
Thank you.Dear Carol,
You may try this to install the Apple Imagewriter printer driver with the Windows XP CD:
http://social.answers.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/w7hardware/thread/883d00df-bdf3 -4dec-b91f-524963ec81a7
Regards,
Novia
Message was edited by: Novia -
Dell 2405FPW stuck in Power Save with MacMini (PPC w/ATI Raedon 9200)
I'm wondering if anyone is having any problems with their Dell 2xxxFPW monitors (specifically the 2405FPW) getting stuck in Power Save mode. This is a known problem with some Dell monitors. More details can be found here:
http://forums.us.dell.com/supportforums/board/message?board.id=dim_monitor&messa ge.id=33721
This problem only presented itself when I began to use my MacMini on my 2405FPW. The FAQ clearly states certain problem 'cards', with a generic 'ATI' reference. They recommend upgrading to the latest drivers as this has to be done in order to avoid the monitor getting stuck in this mode again. Needless to say, I ran the fix and it did resolve the issue, but two weeks later I'm experiencing the same problem. I never had this problem when I used my monitor with my Windows desktop.
My question is, is someone at Apple aware of this and is there any type of driver update/fix out there? I'm assuming anything would've already been pushed down via Software Update, and I grabbed ATI's latest Display drivers and apps on their website to no avail. (There's a ROM update, but they specifically mention this does not apply to OEM's).
I might just have to move my Mini to a VGA connection, which I really don't want to do...
MacMini PPC Mac OS X (10.4.6)Manifisation is random, and I can't link any specific behaviour to the event. I'll be in the middle of reading an email or browsing and the monitor will flicker and just have a 'blank' screen. I can either turn it off/on or wait until the monitor goes into standby and move the mouse. Unfortunatelly its gotten to the point where the monitor just goes 'blank' every minute.
I can run the known Dell fix (a third time), but if something on the Mini is causing this behaviour its pointless to keep trying.
I'm tempted to try using my gf's Dual Core Mini (go figure, she gets the new one and I inherit hers) or just swap her 20" Cinema Display for my Dell 2405FPW -
iPad 2 stuck in power up mode. I tried shutting it Down but it just powers up only to stay in the apple logo. I connected the charger but no luck. To shut it down I need to hold down the power button and home button. Any advise?
You may have to force it into Recovery Mode
1. Disconnect the USB cable from the device, but leave the other end of the cable connected to your computer's USB port.
2. Turn off the device: Press and hold the Sleep/Wake button for a few seconds until the red slider appears, then slide the slider. Wait for the device to turn off.
3.While pressing and holding the Home button, reconnect the USB cable to the device. The device should turn on.
4. Continue holding the Home button until you see the "Connect to iTunes" screen. When this screen appears, release the Home button. iTunes should alert you that it has detected a device in recovery mode. Click OK, and then click Restore to restore the device.
Note: Data will be lost. You may have to repeat the above many times. -
my macbook air won't get past the white apple screen. I've tried power cycling the batter but won't help
Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider. -
Is it possible to use old Apple Flat Panel Display (62 watt power adapter) with a MacBookPro 13" Mid-2012 laptop? Would like to use larger screen when working at home. I have a mini display port to VGA cable and have tried to hook up the old display but it seems not to work. When I try to activate the screen on the old display-- a window comes up in the MacBookPro and asks me if I want to shut down the computer. What little I have read it that the MacBookPro had Thunderbolt and the old display may not be compatible? Any assistance would be appreciated.
quax88 wrote:
11.09.12 22:16:06,148 ClamXavSentry[286]: scan email files
11.09.12 22:16:06,148 ClamXavSentry[286]: I will quarantine infected files
This doesn't have anything to do with your problem, but it will likely cause other issues with your e-mail.
Here's my standard recommendation concerting the use of A-V software to deal with potentially infected messages:
Never use ClamXav (or any other A-V software) to move (quarantine) or delete e-mail. It will corrupt the mailbox index which could cause loss of other e-mail and other issues with functions such as searching. It may also leave the original e-mail on your ISP's e-mail server and will be re-downloaded to your hard drive the next time you check for new mail.
So, if you choose to "Scan e-mail content for malware and phishing" in the General Preferences, make sure you do not elect to either Quarantine or Delete infected files.
When possibly infected e-mail files are found:
Right-click/Control-click on either the infection or file name in the ClamXav window.
Select "Reveal In Finder" from the pop-up menu.
When the window opens, double-click on the file to open the message in your e-mail client application.
Read the message and if you agree that it is junk/spam/phishing then use the e-mail client's delete button to delete it (this is especially important when the word "Heuristics" appears in the infection name).
If you disagree and choose to retain the message, return to ClamXav and choose "Exclude From Future Scans" from the pop-up menu.
If this is a g-mail account and those messages continue to show up after you have deleted them in the above manner, you may need to log in to webmail using your browser, go to the "All Mail" folder, find the message(s) and use the delete button there to permanently delete them from the server.
To fix the corrupted mailbox index(es), highlight each one that was corrupted and choose Rebuild from the appropriate menu. -
Printer Stuck on start up initializing
Printer Stuck on start up initializing.
hard reset don't help.
? what could it be ?Useful article here on the causes of the Spinning Beach Ball and how to troubleshoot it:
http://www.computerworld.com/s/article/9177479/Troubleshoot_the_spinning_beach_b all?taxonomyId=89&pageNumber=1
and also this:
http://www.thexlab.com/faqs/sbbod.html -
Does Apple make a printer for the iPad and if not how do I get it to work with a HP Officejet 6500A Plus printer? Thanks
Apple don't make any printers, but there are a number of the printers that are AirPrint-enabled, which you should be able to print to just by the printer and the iPad being on the same wifi network - the models that support AirPrint are listed on this page (the page also includes a bit of troubleshooting at the bottom of it) and it includes :
HP Officejet 6500A e-All-In-One E710a
HP Officejet 6500A Plus e-All-In-One E710n
If your's isn't one of those then you could see if HPs own ePrint app works with it, or there are third-party printer apps such as PrintCentral Pro and Print n Share which might work it -
Printer stuck in "delete-Printing" for four days; HP Deskjet 3000.
Tried to print 6 page PowerPoint file on HP Deskjet 3000, but printer stuck and would not print. Tried to delete from queue, but status continually shows "Deleting-Printing" for past four days. How do I fix this?
Hi,
From the Desktop, hold down the Windows key and press R. Into the Run window, type services.msc and hit enter. Browse down to the print spooler service, right click it and select Properties then click on the Stop button. Now browse to C:\Windows\System32\Spool\PRINTERS and delete the job(s) inside this folder - You may need to click a prompt to gain the appropriate authority to open the PRINTERS folder.
Restart the computer and you should find the document(s) have been removed.
Regards,
DP-K
****Click the White thumb to say thanks****
****Please mark Accept As Solution if it solves your problem****
****I don't work for HP****
Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience -
Apple will not print my book made on iPhoto 6, what upgrade do I need?
Apple will not print my book made on iPhoto 6, what is the lowest number upgrade I need to have it printed?
iPhoto 08.
Regards
TD -
I just replaced my hard drive in my 13" Macbook. I got the OS install disk from Apple but it's stuck with 7 minutes remaining. What do I do now? I let it check the disk before the install.
Did you properly prep your new drive first?
Drive Preparation
1. Open Disk Utility in your Utilities folder. If you need to reformat your startup volume, then you must boot from your OS X Installer Disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu.
2. After DU loads select your hard drive (this is the entry with the mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Note the SMART status of the drive in DU's status area. If it does not say "Verified" then the drive is failing or has failed and will need replacing. SMART info will not be reported on external drives. Otherwise, click on the Partition tab in the DU main window.
3. Under the Volume Scheme heading set the number of partitions from the drop down menu to one. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Options button, set the partition scheme to GUID (for Intel Macs) or APM (for PPC Macs) then click on the OK button. Click on the Partition button and wait until the process has completed.
4. Select the volume you just created (this is the sub-entry under the drive entry) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window.
5. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Options button, check the button for Zero Data and click on OK to return to the Erase window.
6. Click on the Erase button. The format process can take up to several hours depending upon the drive size.
Steps 4-6 are optional but should be used on a drive that has never been formatted before, if the format type is not Mac OS Extended, if the partition scheme has been changed, or if a different operating system (not OS X) has been installed on the drive.
When formatting has completed quit DU and return to the installer. Complete the OS X installation.
I think you should shutdown the installer then erase the drive per the above and start again. -
Apple vs Windows - print quality, scanning, and print preview
I use an old Epson A3 Photo (1290) to produce very high quality prints as artists' limited edition cards. From Windows the print quality is fantastic, but printing the same page from the Apple (to the same printer) the print quality is terrible. Anyone have any idea what the problem is?
Also the Epson and my two Canon printers offer a print preview from the printer driver, which has saved me many a duff printout. I can't find the same option from Apple (for the same printers). Is there a solution?
Finally - I have a high-quality Epson Scanner, the 4870 Epson Perfection. It came with EpsonScan, a very nice program I've used for many years. The Apple image capture is pretty pathetic in comparison. Anyone have a better suggestion? Surely there must be one with good functionality and flexibility. (I tried installing EpsonScan to the Apple but for some reason it can't see the scanner, even though it is plugged in.)I'm using Apple's Epson print utility for the Epson which I downloaded as a software update when I connected the printer, and the Canon ditto. I have finally managed to find the paper types and print options, though not a print preview atm - the problem may be the software I'm using (QuarkXpress), as there was definitely a print preview from Open Office. I'll continue looking into it.
Thanks for pointing me at Vuescan - it looks great. -
Apple Photobooks and Prints Color Space? - Aperture
Does apple use Adobe RGB or sRGB to print the photobooks and prints via Aperture? Also what is the perfered ppi setting?
I am looking for a professional Adobe RGB printer with a printer specific ppi setting that I can order from via Aperture. If anybody knows these setting for Apple or another printer please let me know!!!
Thank you!Can I suggest you buy Philip Andrews book, Advanced Photoshop Elements 10. he explains colour spaces and much much more very clearly and exactly what can be done with 16 bit files and what you then have to change to 8 bit to accomplish. He's written basic and advanced guides for Elements since day one. Usually available from Amazon for under £20.
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I have recently immigrated to the US but my apple ID is still stuck with my previous country. How do I change the country? Preferably without using a credit cardI've only been here in the US 2 months and still have no US credit card.
Your credit or debit card credentials must be associated with the same country where you reside.
"Although you can browse the iTunes Store in any country without being signed in, you can only purchase content from the iTunes Store for your own country. This is enforced via the billing address associated with your credit card or other payment method that you use with the iTunes Store, rather than your actual geographic location."
From here > The Complete Guide to Using the iTunes Store | iLounge Article -
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