Applying a preset after Auto Tone

When I import a large batch of photographs (2000+) I want to firstly run Auto Tone to get the exposure in the right ball park. Once this is done, I want to apply my own preset. This adjusts most of the settings, EXCEPT exposure which I want to retain from the Auto Tone step. However, this does not work as expected. If I apply the preset with all images selected it seems to process the request, but when I check images individually it does not make the changes! Similarly, if I apply the preset to a single image and then use sync to apply this to all of the other images it does not update the other images with the same settings. Grrrrrr! If I apply the preset to individual images then it does work, but obviously with 2000+ images this isn't really an option..
Has anyone experienced this before? Is there a bug with using user presets on top of Auto Tone?
(As a side note, I've tried running the user preset without first running Auto Tone - it works perfectly as expected. So is there some sort of a glitch with running a preset after Auto Tone?)

When you are applying the Preset are you using the Auto Sync feature. See the screen shot. Hint, if you turn this on make sure you turn it off after you are finished.

Similar Messages

Auto Sync not functioning properly after Auto Tone

Auto Sync is functioning as expected, unless I choose Auto Tone first.
I have about 1000 Images that I wish to apply a Preset to. When I created the Preset using New Develop Preset, I left all of the options checked except Exposure.
I want to use Auto Tone to set the exposure for each image automatically, and then apply my preset to all images, leaving their exposures unchanged. If I apply the Preset to all of the images before selecting Auto Tone, everyting works as expected. If I choose Auto Tone first, a small portion of the selected images will be updated, but most will not. The preset will change all settings except those in the Basic Tone area. It's as if Auto Tone has somehow become "sticky" and will not allow itself to be overridden. Even if I choose a single image, apply my new settings to it, and then manually select Sync, it doesn't work for all images. It also won't work if I have have Auto Sync selected, and then make manual changes to individual sliders. It will work for some images near the ones I see in the filmstrip on the bottom, but not all of the images selected.
This is extremely frustrating. Again, everything works exactly as expected, unless I choose Auto Tone first.

kbarre wrote:
Auto Sync is functioning as expected, unless I choose Auto Tone first.
If I choose Auto Tone first, a small portion of the selected images will be updated, but most will not.
Lightroom's handling of auto-tone leaves something to be desired - I have a lot of experience with it, trying to make reliable develop-setting plugins which include auto-toning. Those plugins have a bewildering amount of logic - something like this: initiate auto-toning, check back to see if it has properly settled, issue the auto-toning again if it never seems to be properly settling... - usually it works out after a while, but even sometimes it never does, and generates an error: can't get auto-toning to settle across all photos.
The point of all this is that there are bugs in Lr's handling of auto-toning, as you are growing aware.
Try this:
* do the auto-toning, then let it percolate for a while.
* then visit each photo at 1:1 (to force Lr to finalize settings...), and confirm auto-toning has settled...
Then try auto-syncing that preset (make sure process versions are all the same, and preset does NOT include auto-toning - I would leave process version OUT of your presets).
Better?
I don't expect this is a workflow you'll want to do all the time, but as a test it might help shed some light on the problem.
Rob

Ever noticed that Auto Tone performs slightly different adjustments when applied during import as opposed to when applied in the Develop module? I've just run some experiments using LR 5.7.1 Camera Raw 8.7.1 using Canon CR2 images. 3 out of 4 test images

Original Images after applying Auto tone in the develop module
Image
14BD3911.CR2
14BD3912.CR2
14BD3913.CR2
14BD3914.CR2
Exposure captured
Under
Over
Slightly over
Under
WB Temp (as shot)
2300
2300
6650
6650
WB Tint (as shot)
+7
+7
+6
+6
Tone Exposure (auto)
+2.9
+0.5
+0.5
+1.9
Contrast (auto)
+4
-3
-17
+6
Highlights (auto)
-48
-45
-11
-10
Shadows (auto)
+48
+45
+11
+10
Whites (auto)
0
0
+23
+29
Blacks (auto)
-7
-6
-14
-6
Images imported with LR General Preset Auto Tone
Image
14BD3911-2.CR2
14BD3912-2.CR2
14BD3913-2.CR2
14BD3914-2.CR2
Exposure captured
Under
Over
Slightly over
Under
WB Temp (as shot)
2300
2300
6650
6650
WB Tint (as shot)
+7
+7
+6
+6
Tone Exposure (auto)
+2.9
+0.5
+0.5
+1.9
Contrast (auto)
+4
-2
-17
+6
Highlights (auto)
-48
-45
-12
-10
Shadows (auto)
+48
+45
+12
+10
Whites (auto)
0
0
+22
+29
Blacks (auto)
-7
-3
-12
-3

I received two email replies (BriPhoto & Rob Cole) to my above post, which are now missing here. I only mentioned Auto WB because of this statement in your PDF posted here Shared Cat:
"Apply auto WB and Auto tone to an unmodified photo and note the changes.
Apply auto WB and tone to another photo with very different exposure and tone and note changes to confirm that changes are different and do depend on the content of the photo being operated on (assumption)."
You are now saying:
"However, in this case we are talking about the SAME raw file, imported from the camera's CF card twice. One is imported with no preset, then the Auto Tone preset applied, the other is imported with the Auto Tone preset set in the import module. Both files have the SAME WB setting (As Shot) and the same Temp and Tint, as you would expect. The only differences (in LR) are in the tonal values."
I repeated Import of the two copies of your 14BD3913 CR2 file (14BD3913.CR2, 14BD3913-2.CR2) following the above procedure. The Tone values are identical for both using LR5.7 on my Windows 7 SP1 system. I cannot duplicate your issue as outlined above.
Is this the Auto Tone preset you are using on Import?
Two other things you can try:
1) Reset your LR Preferences file:
http://members.lightroomqueen.com/Knowledgebase/Article/View/1148/198/how-do-i-delete-the- lightroom-preferences-file
2) If that doesn't correct the issue I would try uninstalling LR5.7.1, delete the LR Preferences file, and then reinstall LR5.7.1 using a fresh download.

Anyway to turn off "Apply Auto Tone Adjustments" with Tiffs + PSDs?

Using 1.1 on Mac....
When I view tiffs in Lightroom 1.1 I noticed images are much lighter than when viewing in Photoshop. Is it the preference "Apply Auto Tone Adjustments" being applied? If so is there a way to turn it off for Tiffs and PSDs?

John:
I think I just ran into the same problem in a different venue, and maybe many people are having this problem. I imported a folder of layered psd master files from which I wanted to output prints in the LR print module. (You can see the thread on this forum titled "lightroom output prints are too light"). All of them looked a good stop lighter when viewed in the LR window as compared to when they were opened in photoshop.
After some other diagnostic suggestions that did not yield a solution, Jeff Schewe told me to use the Zeroed preset when importing images, so as to eliminate any develop settings that might inadvertently be turned on. I haven't tried to print yet, but they are importing as I write this and the ones in the LR window look like they match the image when viewed in photoshop. I just checked Lee Jay's advice and did find that I had "Apply Auto Tone Adjustments" checked in the presets preferences. Am not sure why this would override "none" when importing, but evidently it does.
Am also not sure what your issues about syncing are (I didn't even know "Apply Auto Tone Adjustments" checkbox existed till I read your thread), but hope this helps.
Paula Lerner
http://www.lernerphoto.com

Can I Create An Auto Tone Plus Half Stop Preset?

In Lightroom 2+ I really love the new Auto Tone, it gets me much closer, much faster. However, I'm wondering if there is anyway to (probably with a text editor) create a preset like do Auto Tone and then add .25 exposure.
Should I be looking at a different feature? Can I somehow apply the history of one image to another?
Thanks!
Justin

Select all images in the grid, hit autotone, then hit the small right arrow in quick develop.

Is there a way to make a preset that makes Auto Tone behave the way it did in the beta?

Yes, I'm probably the only person on the planet that wants this, but I liked how the Auto Tone auto adjusted the Exposure slider (ONLY!) and left all the other sliders at zero in the Lightroom 4 beta.
Is there a way to write a preset that returns that behavior?

No, but try shift-double-click on the word "Exposure".

Camera RAW auto tone settings applied to jpegs

I posted this in the Windows Bridge forum, but a camera raw preference controls this so I am also posting here.
On jpeg files without any RAW setting applied, Bridge still applies RAW settings to the thumbnails and the preview are thus display incorrectly. Opening the file shows the jpeg as it should be, without RAW settings applied.
I have RAW preferences set to apply auto settings to RAW files without any current settings.
I have my RAW settings to open jpegs in RAW *only* when they already have settings. If I set this to disable jpeg support, then the RAW settings are not automatically applied to jpegs without existing settings. aka, Bridge redoes the thumbnails without the auto setting.
While it is correct to apply auto tone to RAW files without settings, jpeg files are already "developed/printed" and should not get additional auto develop settings automatically applied.
My Bridge is 4.0.4.2
Raw is 6.3
-Norman

I posted this in the Windows Bridge forum, but a camera raw preference controls this so I am also posting here.
On jpeg files without any RAW setting applied, Bridge still applies RAW settings to the thumbnails and the preview are thus display incorrectly. Opening the file shows the jpeg as it should be, without RAW settings applied.
I have RAW preferences set to apply auto settings to RAW files without any current settings.
I have my RAW settings to open jpegs in RAW *only* when they already have settings. If I set this to disable jpeg support, then the RAW settings are not automatically applied to jpegs without existing settings. aka, Bridge redoes the thumbnails without the auto setting.
While it is correct to apply auto tone to RAW files without settings, jpeg files are already "developed/printed" and should not get additional auto develop settings automatically applied.
My Bridge is 4.0.4.2
Raw is 6.3
-Norman

Detecting if Auto Tone has been applied?

An Any Filter user would like to find images for which Auto Tone has been applied.
Is there any way for a plugin using the SDK APIs to detect this? Looking closely at photo:getDevelopSettings(), it appears that Auto Tone adjusts all the individual develop settings but doesn't leave any indication that it was invoked, as opposed to the user changing those settings individually. The develop history records this, but there isn't any API for accessing the history, and I don't think accessing the catalog via SQL is viable for my use case.

Hi John,
I can't think of a single thing that would be reasonable enough to actually do - sorry.
I mean, I've done plugins which rely on a shadow-copy of the catalog created upon startup, but it's admittedly tacky.
e.g. User instructions:
* Make a copy of the catalog before starting up
* then don't auto-tone anything before doing the search (or restart Lightroom..).
(then you can rely on edit-history for the auto-tone setting).
Obviously you could automate that somewhat - if user selects "Auto Tone" in their filter, then you write a startup batch file and have user startup using it before searching, etc..
(or I suppose you could just find the most recent catalog in the catalog backup folder...)
PS - SQLiteroom has an option to make the shadow copy upon startup, which I use in the DevHistoryEditor plugin.
I mean #2, you could auto-tone a virtual copy then compare settings to the original - odds are very low user would come up with exact same settings as auto-toner (I know, yuck..). then there's the vcopies to dispose of..
Will let you know if I think of anything slicker.
Cheers,
Rob

Camera Raw - apply auto tone adjustments ...

In camera raw, "apply auto tone adjustments" option in the preferences dialog is not same with the "auto" button on the basic panel, isn't it?
Both of them control the same sliders, are there any relationship between them?

Maybe, there is a bug for Windows 7 64-bit ... when the "apply auto tone adjustments" option is active on the preferences dialog, the auto button on the basic panel is also active and I'm always getting slightly different results by pressing it.

Can't apply Animation Presets in After Effects CC(2014)

I'm no longer able to apply any animation presets to my type. When I try, this dialogue box appears:
Can anyone help me with this? Thanks.

Yes, you can apply animation presets. You just can't do it through Bridge. See this thread:
Using bridge within AE 2014.

LIghtroom Auto Tone Too Dark and Loses Detail

Hi,
I'm new to Lightroom so excuse my ignorance if I use the wrong terminology or ask a question that has a relatively easy answer I somehow overlooked inside of Lightroom.
I take photos at my son's soccer games and frequently walk away with over 200 photos to adjust, crop, etc. after removing the poor composition, out of focus and other shots. One of the features that prompted me to purchase Lightroom to replace my existing tool (Capture One LE) was the way Lightroom handled colors in the Auto Tone preset. Photos auto adjusted in Lightroom with the Auto Tone feature exhibit a much more rich/vibrant color than the ones that would come out of Capture One LE for me.
However, I've noticed that Auto Tone also darkens areas of the photo to the point where a significant amount of detail is lost. For example, a shot of a player head on with a shadow across his face and front of his jersey loses facial detail around the eyes, nose, mouth and folds in the front of the jersey because the coloring is darkened to the point where the highlights are lost.
I've tried several adjustments to regain the highlights and associated detail, but am unsure if there's a better way to recover the detail (or gain the tone enhancements without losing the detail). So far, the adjustments I've tried to regain the detail have caused the colors to wash out somewhat and reduce the benefit gained with the color enhancements of Auto Tone.
Is there a better way of regaining the detail after using Auto Tone? And on a related note, is there a way to "undo" just the Auto Tone adjustment in a photo if it's not the last adjustment made, or does one need to step backward through the adjusments undoing each adjustment in order to get to the Auto Tone adjustment in order to remove it?
Thanks in advance for any direction or suggestions anyone can provide. FYI, my photos were all in RAW format (noticed a lot of other posts referring to LR Auto Tone washing out JPGs, but this isn't my issue), with a Canon 20D.
Dale

There are several ways to go, here, as always with Lightroom in this situation. I suppose one thing you can do is use Auto Tone as you've been doing, and then back down another slider or two, particularly Contrast and Brightness, that moves too far for your taste when you hit Auto Tone.
I don't use Auto Tone. It's considered a machete where deftly-wielded surgical knives get much better results. I tested Auto Tone out on a virtual copy of one of my photos of people for you to see what happens. It bumps Contrast way up, drops Brightness a bit, reduces Fill Light, and increases Blacks slightly. Yeah, that would pretty much get the results you're complaining about! Might work okay in some landscape shots in some very subdued lighting situations, but it will make family shots too harsh.
Let me suggest another approach. First, no one checklist approach like I'm about to suggest works for every photo. But when you learn how to use the sliders yourself, and not rely on the automatic and strongest ones, like Auto Tone and Contrast, your photos will look better than you even realized. Seriously! I know what you're saying:
I take 200 photos at a time, and I don't have time to play with sliders for each photo. Hear me out, though, because you do. Once you get the hang of it, you'll learn to do all this so fast, well less than one minute per keeper shot, and you'll see that it's worth the small amount of time it takes.
First look at all your Imported shots and quickly weed out most of them. Don't try to save the ones where your main subject is out-of-focus or turned away at the last second, or badly overexposed shots, or for whatever reason, aren't worth editing time because you know you have better ones... and you should weed out MOST shots (maybe at least 150) if you took 200! Be a tough editor! Hit the X key as you look at ones to cull, then click Filter by black flag until all the Rejected photos Only are isolated, check them one more time to be sure you didn't X some you want by mistake, ctrl-A them to highlight all the Rejected ones ONLY, and hit Delete to blow them all away, From Disk. Congratulate yourself, because you just saved a lot of editing time.
Assuming the Exposure was in the right ballpark, fix Color Temp first. For your first keeper shot, move that Temp slider near upper right of Develop, almost certainly to the right for Canon Raw shots, to warm the faces a bit. You probably don't want the kids' faces ruddy red, but a little warming so that white jerseys just begin to go slightly to the red side of white, makes your outdoor people photos glow. It wouldn't be surprising to see family soccer photos in the 6000-6500 range look best. If you want cold journalistic realism, leave white jerseys pure white and Temp down in the 4000-5000 range on a cloudy day or 5000-6000 range on a sunny one. Now, if one shot's right, and
if your light didn't change during the shoot (sun going in and out of clouds, sun setting, field lights turning on halfway through the game), you can fix Temp for all your remaining shots with just a couple of clicks! Leave the first shot you fixed Temp for highlighted, and ctrl-A the whole filmstrip (or, alternatively, you can just ctrl-click the ones taken in the same light). Now click the Sync button that appears near the lower right corner of Develop. A window pops. Make sure White Balance is checked, and click Synchronize. (Every field checked here gets applied the same as on the first highlighted shot to all your subsequently highlighted shots when you do this. Since you haven't changed anything else yet, you don't have to uncheck the other boxes-- it won't matter. But later, after you've made other adjustments to other shots, you might only want to leave the boxes checked for fields you do want applied the same to all highlighted photos.) When you click Synchronize, watch all the highlighted photos in the filmstrip at the bottom get a warmer color balance. You can always later make more refined adjustments to individual shots or groups of shots that go too red or not warm enough.
The next thing to fix is the Exposure. Get in the habit of constantly consulting that Histogram graph at the top of the right column. Ideally, though this isn't always possible or ideal, but generally, you'd like to see neither triangle in the upper right and left corners
lit. (When it's right, you'll still see the outline of the triangle, but it won't be illuminated.) Even better, for an average outdoor shot with a variety of light and dark tones, you want to see a nice balanced line across most of the graph, curving up from the left and down on the right. Not always possible or the best exposure for every shot, mind you, just average ones. (A silhouette shot on a beach with the setting sun in the photo is an example of a shot where the best Histogram will look the opposite of that!) Try moving Exposure slowly to the left and right and watch how the Histogram moves. Try to get the best average placement you can, and see if the photo still looks right.
Or watch your grass with soccer shots while you move Exposure back and forth. Grass should look middle green, not too bright, and not dull-muddy-dark. Or watch faces. If you still have a triangle on the upper right of Histogram, which means highlight detail is blowing out, try sliding Recovery to the right just until the upper right triangle disappears, if possible. (It isn't always possible, even with Recovery at 100.) If you still have a triangle on the upper left of Histogram (that one means shadows are muddy with no detail), try sliding Blacks down from 5 towards 0, just until the triangle goes away. Sometimes it's easier to make a triangle go away by moving Exposure a bit. If there's no triangle on the upper left, try increasing Black slowly just until one appears in the upper left, then back off a bit until it just goes away again. If there are harsh shadows, increase Fill Light to brighten shadows a bit until it looks right. Losing the triangles is a general goal but not as important as having photos look right to you. It's a juggling act. Sometimes when you remove the triangles, the grass is muddy brownish, faces look wrong, or highlights are too dull. Maybe you move Exposure, Highlights or Blacks to put one or both triangles back but leave the overall photo better.
Now just do two more things, especially as you're learning this: first, increase Clarity. Probably a bunch. If faces go too harsh on you with Clarity at a highsetting, and they can in closeup, you may want about a 20-45 on Clarity. Many photos look best with even higher Clarity settings, even 100 for landscapes. Now bump Vibrance up, probably to the left of the Clarity slider, though. Too high a setting on Vibrance makes colors looks cartoonish and fake. Are faces too ruddy or foliage too over-the-top? Back off on Vibrance.
Look at the Histogram one more time and touch up Recovery and Blacks again if needed to get rid of barely reappearing triangles.
I recommend you do not move the following sliders, generally, for 99% of your photos, anyway: Tint (just usually not needed if the camera is doing color balance correctly), and Brightness, Contrast, and Saturation, all of which are ham-handed ways of doing what you do more precisely with the other sliders. About the only time you need Saturation is to move it left with a rare shot that for some reason has too much color especially red even with Vibrance set to 0. (Maybe your camera is set to Vivid.)
Doing these things will make most of your photos look WAY better than hitting Auto Tone. And once you get the hang of it, as I said, you can do each photo in well less than one minute, and you only do this on your keepers, so it doesn't take much time.

Possible to do 'auto-tone' manually?

I'm going to try and put an example as part of my question because I'm not sure how to explain it otherwise.
While editing two very similar photos and using the CS6 auto-tone command, one of the photos photoshop was able to truly fix up while the other barely changed. Here is the example:
Photo A was very blue and dark; the auto-tone command magically fixed it up to have nice color variation in the rock and made it brighter. Here is the before/after:
On the other hand, photo B didn't work out the same way; the auto-tone command barely did anything, even though I thought both photos looked to have very similar problems (blue, dark, etc). Here is it before/after:
Here are the links to the full original photo A and photo B in case they are useful...
Now, what I'm trying to figure out, is how can I achieve on photo B the same effect that auto-tone did for photo A! Is there any way to find out what adjustments auto-tone made? Any advice on how I can do this fix-up manually?
Your help is greatly appreciated!

TheWildCoast wrote:
Thank you very much for the help!
I found the settings you describe and was able to create a curves layer and do the adjustment on photo A. However, when I open photo B (in a new photoshop tab) and follow the same steps, it remains dark and blue, just like my previous attempts.
Yes, that's to be expected, and you were not supposed to repeat the auto-adjusting steps for Photo B. You should set up the adjustment with Photo A only, then use the adjustment with Photo B.
I notice in your screenshots that you have both photo A and photo B open in the same photoshop tab - how do I do that?
After opening Photo A, I dragged Photo B from the desktop and into the same document window. There's also a command to open multiple images into a stack in one document: File > Scripts > Load Files Into Stack.
I temporarily hid Photo B by clicking the eye to the left of its thumbnail in Layers panel, added the Curves layer to the top of the stack, made the auto adjustment, then clicked the eye again to reveal Photo B.
The issue is that I actually have about 15 of these photos I'd like to fix up which have the same blue issue, and only one of them (photo A) seems to turn out nicely with photoshop - I'd like to be able to apply this fix to the others, perhaps with the ability to do some small adjustments depending on how it applies to each of the photos. I guess ultimately I'm trying to understand the workflow. You mentioned I could save the curves layer as a custom present for later use - how do I do that? Would that be my workflow then?
Make the basic auto-adjusted Curves layer with Photo A. In top-right of Properties panel for the Curves layer, click the button with a triangle, pick Save Curves Preset and give it a meaningful name. The preset will then be available in the Presets menu of a Curves layer (or Curves command) in any document.
When you use the Curves layer in a document, pick the custom preset then make further tweaks to the controls as required, or add further adjustment layers to the stack.
I recommend you work in 16-bit mode (menu Image > Mode > 16-bit) to reduce the possible introduction of posterization and banding. Your final output can be in 8-bit mode, as usual.

Bridge CS6 How to turn off auto tone adjustment for the loupe?

Adobe Bridge CS6. 'Apply auto tone adjustments' is unchecked in Camera Raw Preferences. Yet every time I click on an image in the preview panel it does a tonal adjustment before it magnifies the image detail. I am viewing bracketed images and do not want any auto tone applied at any time while previewing images. How can I turn off all auto tone adjustment for the program - including the loupe. I never had this issue in a previous version. I'm on PC. Thanks for any help!

All 4 Default Image Settings are unchecked. Checking this further I have found this is only a visual issue in Bridge Preview. I have opened the same raw file before any adjustment had taken place (w/o using the loupe magnifier) in PS CS6 - and then again opened it after using the magnifier which did an auto contrast adjust on the image. Both files are the same in PS CS6. This is only a visual issue within Bridge (Master Collection CS6) on my Win7 64 bit machine. No issue with a standalone PS CS6 version on my XP 64 bit system.
There is no auto adjustment of the image until I use the loupe (magnifier tool).
Note my previous comment as to what happens when I use it. Thanks!
I have a feeling this is a bug. I have a Photography help group on fb and posed this question to them. I had mostly no issue responses but got this from another person. I checked after reading this and it is the same issue with me - this only happens with raw files, not jpeg. Here is his comment line.
Carl, I see what you mean, I have tried several adjustments to the preferences and none seem to work. The image automatically adjusts after a brief time. There does not seem to be any way to turn off the adjustment. I'm using Bridge CS 6 on a Mac. I don't think it has anything to do with camera calibration, but it only happens when using RAW files. I tried it on JPGs and TIFFs and it did not adjust the loupe image. Wonder what Adobe has to say
So - tThanks for any thoughts! So at least it's not going to be an editing issue - but it's a pain here. I use Bridge to edit my shoots and I often shoot bracketed images. While I cull images according to the histogram, I also do visual assessment and I can't have Bridge doing it's own thing on tonal adjustment.

Applying settings preset to multiple images in ACR v4.3

When attempting to apply a preset to multiple images in ACR, the preset is only applied to the "current" or "active" image. The other images in the thumbnail pane remain unchanged, even though they are selected. This function works correctly in Bridge, but not in ACR. "Synchronizing" the files does not do the same thing, as my preset incorporates "Apply auto tone adjustments." What am I missing?

Pardon my misunderstanding of the question. I just tried it, and the method of selecting the images has no impact (e.g., the "select all" button, or hold "shift" or "ctrl" and click on multiple images...)
All the boxes are checked in the "synchronize" dialog. However, this synchronizes all of the settings to the "active image," which ties the tone adjustments to that image, which is undesirable. I just want to automatically adjust the tones (as part of my preset) to all of the selected images.
Based upon input from this tread, this is the refined procedure I use to "check" if it's working (which hasn't for me so far):
1) Select multiple images (or all, if you prefer)
2) Apply "camera raw defaults" Note that the settings default to Blacks: +5, Brightness: +50, Contrast: +25
3) Apply a saved preset (saved with the check box "Apply auto tone adjustments" checked).
4) Note that the Blacks, Brightness, and Contrast sliders only "adjust" for the "active" image, but don't change for the other selections. They remain at Blacks: +5, Brightness: +50, Contrast: +25
Again, if I perform this procedure in Bridge, it works for all selected images. However, in ACR, it functions as described above.
Does that clear it up?
Thanks for the prompt responses so far. I hope I'm simply doing something incorrectly!

Can I apply two presets

I'm a newbie and can't find the asnwer. I need to make enhancements to about a hundred pictures, and want to do it with presets. I want to brighten (using Auto Tone) and enhance (using either Direct Positive or Medium Contrast Curve) it looks like only the last preset gets applied. Do I have to apply one preset, export the pic, import it again and apply the next preset? Or am I missing a way to apply both>
All help is appreciated.

Hi Louise,
Overlapped settings of one preset will overwrite (replace) previous adjustments, regardless of where they came from.
The quick develop section is the only way to apply bulk adjustments in Lightroom which takes previous adjustments into account.
Note: auto-sync mode is absolute too (adjustments made in auto-sync mode discard previous setting in favor of new common setting).
If you want to apply presets relatively (cumulatively..), or make other bulk adjustments not supported by quick develop section, you have to use a plugin.
I use Gazoo, which is free, and I wrote it, but there are others if you prefer..
Rob

Applying a preset after Auto Tone

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