Are Blue & White G3's obsolete for Tiger?

I have two Blue & White G3 400 MHz (revision1) machines that I keep around for iTunes and web surfing when my G4 is busy. I have just tried installing Tiger on one ( with Applerescue discs) and it seems to be a no-go. I'm installing on an ATA hard drive (Western Digital 120 GB), not a SCSI hard drive (it's only 10GB). Both are in this machine.
I noticed the first Apple screen (gray with dark gray Apple logo) looked weird. There were five logos made of horizontal lines such that when you over-lapped the images you would have one complete image. The install went great until the System Update installer crashed. I tried the Applerescue discs and the built in Software Update. I tried re-booting and the problem did not go away. After another re-boot the computer hangs on the weird gray screen described above. After another install I'm caught in the registration setup. It keeps going back to the beginning of registration.
Are these early Blue & White machines doomed to stay on Panther? I hate to throw away two good computers.
Tracy

I have had difficulty using the Apple purchased CD to install OS X on my B&W G3. I am hoping someone can give me some assistance. The installation CD disc 1 completes the installation without installing the package files contained in CD install disks 2-4. As a result when attempting to
start the computer in OS X, a prohibitory sign is shown. This is probably indicative of an incomplete installation. The install disc# 1 boots-up, the computer check, source disk check, and destination disk check are all passed. The installation process says the installation was sucessful despite not calling for the necessary package files. Is there a means of installing the package files (contained in install disks 2-4) manually through OS 9.2.2? Is the install disc CD# 1 defective?

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Blue & White G3 won't boot from Tiger DVD

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the B & W G3's ARE supported under OS X 10.4 right? This computer came to me only a week ago with 10.3.9 installed (flaky, but working), 32x CD-ROM, 384 MB RAM, 25 GB HD. The PRAM battery is dead. I was also given an NEC 5x DVD-ROM to install. This works fine (when it wants to) when booting with an OS 9.2.2 CD-ROM, and it can see and open the Tiger install CD... but it will NOT boot from it for some reason, computer just sits and idles. Any ideas?

This article concerns a specific problem with the Blue & White G3 and the Matsushita CR-587 CD-ROM drive. However, it shows an Open Firmware workaround that you could try:
25793- Power Macintosh G3 (Blue and White): Unable to start from Mac OS X 10.3.2 Install CD by holding "C" key

PCI modem for Blue & White G3?

The internal modem drivers shown in Tiger make it seem like I could install almost any PCI type internal modem in my Blue & White G3. Is this true?
Thanks,
Eric

I've yet to find any PCI modem cards that are Mac-compatible, especially since most of them are the inexpensive WinModem type (software-based). The US Robotics Performance Pro v.92 PCI Modem card is about the only one that would be worth trying, as it's a controller-based modem with onboard DSP. Unfortunately, US Robotics never developed a Mac driver for it.
Incidentally, you should post future questions about your B&W G3 in its designated Expansion Forum.

I've had a Samsung network extender for over a year and it's been great. About a week ago, my iPhone 5 stopped connecting to it. I've never had problems with this. All the lights on the extender are blue, so it seems it's working fine. Any suggestions

I've had a Samsung network extender for over a year and it's been great. About a week ago, my iPhone 5 stopped connecting to it. I've never had problems with this. All the lights on the extender are blue, so it seems it's working fine. Any suggestions?

Oh no! Lets ensure that you are connected. Have you tried to reset the Network Extender? Are other devices able to connect to the Extender? Is your Internet service up and running?
Share details so that we can help!
Thank you,
LenaA_VZW
Follow us on Twitter @VZWSupport

Hello MacHeads: I downloaded Handbrake 0.9.1 for Tiger, so I can upload a homemade DVD for editing in imovie. Problem is I can't even access Handbrake Help book, because I think my firewall settings are preventing me. I tried turning off all my firewall

Hello MacHeads: I downloaded Handbrake 0.9.1 for Tiger, so I can upload a homemade DVD for editing in imovie. Problem is I can't even access Handbrake Help book, because I think my firewall settings are preventing me. I tried turning off all my firewall settings.? IDK if I'm even doing that right. Can anyone help out here?

You don't need Handbrake for that if it is your own DVD.
You need to convert the VOB files in the TS-Folder of the DVD back to DV which iMovie is designed to handle.
a DVD is in a compresed format called mpeg2, which is standard across all DVDs. This is what is known as a 'final delivery format' and is not suitable for editing. Because is is compressed, a 4.7GB DVD can hold a two hour movie (dual layer DVDs twice that), whereas the DV stream from a video camera, which runs at about 13GB per hour, is not compressed and IS intended for editing.
In other words you have to 'reverse engineer' the DVD back to an uncompressed format in ordfer to edit it. There is a penalty for doing this in terms of slight quality loss, but it is one you can live with.
When you have your DVD as an icon on your desktop, double-click it, and it will open to reveal a TS-Folder containing a number of various files, some called VOB. These are the constituent parts of any video DVD.
When you have downloaded and installed mpegStreamclip, and purchased and installed the Apple mpeg2 plugin, open mpegStreamclip and drag the entire TS Folder into its window. Then using the various menus available to you (just explore them and you will get the hang of it) ask it to convert to DV.
That DV file, which will be many times larger than the original TS Folder, and which can a while to create (be patient - make coffee or prune the roses!) is what you can now import into iMovie for editing etc.
When you have finished doing that, you then have to turn the project back into a DVD.
mpegStreamclip can be downloaded from here:
http://www.apple.com/downloads/macosx/video/mpegstreamclip.html
which is free, but you must also have the Apple mpeg2 plugin :
http://www.apple.com/quicktime/mpeg2/
which is a mere $20.
Another possibility is to use DVDxDV:
http://www.dvdxdv.com/NewFolderLookSite/Products/DVDxDV.overview.htm
which costs $25.
For the benefit of others who may read this thread:
Obviously the foregoing only applies to DVDs you have made yourself, or other home-made DVDs that have been given to you. It will NOT work on copy-protected commercial DVDs, which in any case would be illegal.

What are the parts i will need for my ipod since my ipod screen remains completly blank white

what are the parts i will need for my ipod since my ipod screen remains completly blank white

- iOS: Not responding or does not turn on
- Also try DFU mode after try recovery mode
How to put iPod touch / iPhone into DFU mode « Karthik's scribblings
- If not successful and you can't fully turn the iOS device fully off, let the battery fully drain. After charging for an least an hour try the above again.
- Try on another computer
- If still not successful that usually indicates a hardware problem and an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store is in order.
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar

What are some of your favorite presets for lightroom? Especially black & white?

What are some of your favorite presets for lightroom? I havent found a b&w that I like yet, i guess its personal preference. Any suggestions would be great

A couple of points
- What are your criteria for liking a b&w preset?
- No b&w preset suits every image
Also, have you tried Silver Efex Pro?

Replacement drive for Blue/White G3

Found a good price on a WD Caviar 160gb. But it says it is ATA II. Will it work inside this computer. I want to swap it out with the original drive and use it as the boot up drive.

The Blue & White G3 does not have native SCSI support, so you must be using a PCI card SCSI controller. If your Blue & White G3 shipped in the "Server" configuration, that card could be an Adaptec with 5 digit number, or Apple/ATTO such as the UL2D with second internal connector de-populated. The pale yellow to white "teflon" cable is folded in a convoluted way to allow each of the the three drive connectors to reach a drive right-side up. The black gizmo at the end is a terminator. Only 68-pin SCSI drives will fit on that cable without adapters.
Macs like yours can use drives on any or all of their busses.
If your Mac shipped with the "stacking bracket" shown in this article, it is almost certain to be a rev 2, whose very short IDE/ATA cable can accept up to two IDE/ATA drives, one set to Master and one set to Slave.
58193 -- Power Macintosh G3 (Blue and White): Additional Hard Drive Installation Options

Blue & White will not Boot into OS 9

My son has a 400Mhz Rev. 2 Blue & White. Recently the Power Supply died, which I replaced, but when it died it also took one of the hard drives with it, before that it was working flawlessly. He had two ATA drives, both Maxtor, one the original 6 gig, with OS 9.2.2, and a 40 gig with OS X 10.4.11 on it. It was the 40 gig that died. Like I said I replaced the the dead power supply, pulled the faulty hard drive and replaced it with another one with 10.4.11 on it. The computer would start up, sometimes it would chime, sometimes not, but it would always go to a white screen, with the mouse courser in the top left hand corner and just sit there. I tried zapping the PRAM, resetting the logic board, pressing the CUDA Switch, starting up from original 8.6 CD, a retail OS 9.1 CD, a retail Tiger CD, and even a SCSI hard drive with OS 9.2.2 it. The only thing that worked was the Tiger CD, which would allow me to boot to the OS X drive. But for some reason I cannot boot to any device with OS 9.2.2 or lower. I can boot into classic from OS X, but I cannot boot directly to any drive with OS 9.
So my question is, how can this machine recognize and boot to OS X, but not to OS 9? I can take all the disks and boot to their respective OS's on my Daughter's Blue & White with no problems, but my son's will only boot to OS X, and it just hangs if I try to boot to OS 9.
Any help will be much appreciated.
By the way, I googled this problem, and it seems awhile back someone had the same problem with a G4 Cube, but was unable to get any help. So while it may be rare, it has happened before.
Ken

Ken,
A couple more things you should try: First I would try removing the PRAM battery from the computer with it powered off and unplugged for at least 10 minutes. This will completely kill the clock and the PRAM, but the PRAM settings may still hold. Then put the battery in and power it back on. I just replaced RAM in a G4Cube and that was the only way to get the system to accept the new RAM. Of course this resets your system clock to January 1st 1907, which will cause all sorts of complaints until you reset the clock, but it could fix the disparate drive problem.
Another thing to know is that certain PATA drives do not play well together Western Digital and Maxtor for instance. WD Masters expect WD slaves on their chain, so if you are mixing brands, you should try placing both drives in Cable Select Mode. Place the blue end of the ribbon cable on the motherboard, the master drive on the black cable end and the slave on the gray connector in the middle and give that a whirl.
Then you should hold down CommandOption+OF for Open Firmware when you press the power button, that will bring up your Open Firmware interface and enable you to view the startup settings. From there you can specify which hard drive you want it to boot from. If you know the drive and slice you can specify it in the boot-device entry. To view all the entries type "printenv" and press enter it should show a full page of options and then give you the option to press space for the last 7 or so entries. See what boot-device has next to it. It should read something like hd:0:2,\\:tbxi If you don't know what your boot slice is you can wipe out the entry one of two ways: You can edit the entry directly, in which case you would type "setenv boot-device hd:\\:tbxi" Return Then do a "printenv" again. That should show the blank entry--what you're doing is removing the specific boot drive assignment. You might also wish to change the boot mode so that you can see the device messages instead of the gray screen as the system boots. You can do that temporarily by pressing Command+V on boot. To store your new settings and start the Mac type "mac-boot" and Return. To choose which drive you want to boot from hold Option down as it powers up and you should be shown a list of the volumes with a bootable MacOS on them, as the OS Finds the bootable folders. Then you should be able to get Mac OS 9 or X to boot.
Let us know how you make out...
Tom

Need to ID G4 part:socket came off logic board (blue & white power cable

In the course of disassembling a G4 iBook the socket for the blue & white power cable wiring harness broke off the logic board.
I am trying to learn the correct desciption of this part so I can find a replacement. The wires on the bottom which were soldered to the board broke off.
Even after it was broken off, and I had leverage, I had to use two pairs of pliers to get the plug out of this socket. It should never have been assembled so tightly.

Spud-- I'm going to use conductive epoxy; I don't have access to anyone with micro soldering skills.
re previous posts -- unfortunately the Search logic is not precise enough to ask about this particular connector. Any search containing "logic board" gets swamped with the famous failure issue.
I went to an electronics specialty store and they didn't have any connectors of that style, let alone size. I'd like to replace the socket so I can use the existing plug on the blue & white wire.
Last night I spend some hours surfing "connector" etc and didn't see any photos that matched it on any distributor/manufacturer sites. So I'm still wondering what the correct descriptive word is, as used in the trade.
My "backup" iBook G3/Panther is taking about 30 seconds to load an average web page though. Spinner locks it up while loading one at a time. Wonder if installing Tiger and a newer Safari would help? I just got a chip to max out the memory, still have to install it.
For those who haven't seen it, the plug is a solid rectangle with two holes; the socket has a rectangular single cavity with two prongs sticking up from the bottom. TINY, THIN prongs.
The socket bottom has no leads on it (anymore). They are broken off flush with the plastic on the bottom. I was thinking of using a dental burr to grind into them, creating a small cavity, and then using conductive epoxy. I don't know if the bottom plastic is thick enough; if I go too far then it would ruin the prongs sticking up in the cavity.
But I could epoxy a wire stub, as long as possible to still fit into the space above the board & below the top of the shield/case. Then epoxy each wire to the pad on the board. The pads are about 1 mm x 2 mm or less, and worse, the gap between them is under 1mm wide. I'll have to goop some insulating silicone putty in that gap before putting tiny dabs of epoxy on the pads.
I bought some larger socket/plugs at the store, the socket part has no leads in it though. These sockets are they type that use the wire lead of the style shown in your photo of the repaired plug. I also got some different ones with flat prongs.
I'd like to move the connection point from the board to under the case top -- the blue & white wire runs all the way from the other side of the case. I just need a thin enough connector. Worst case -- leave as much slack wire length as possible and solder a Western Union splice.
If I can epoxy leads to the board without shorting between the pads I can figure something out. Need to carefully estimate the space available. Or as you say, just make some prongs.
You say #26 is the right wire gauge -- that's vital data. I don't want to undersize the power leads !
I'm also going to paint non-conductive coating on the board around the pad area, so I can slop the epoxy without worrying about shorting a trace. I've had to do some scraping to remove the gummy gluey stuff -- I presume its silicone adhesive of some kind.
There is some sort of test connection right above this area, with two little prongs sticking up. Marked "J1." The traces look like they go to the socket. I wonder if they use that to use alligator clips to power up the board during assembly testing? That location is much, much larger than the pads for the socket.

Mac G3 Blue & White won,t boot anymore

Hi everyone
I havea a big problem and I hope someone can help me out.
I have a G3 Blue & White with
PCU:300 Mgz
Rams:896 MB
HDD:130 GB
I had Tiger installed on it and worked perfectly,but classic would not boot up because it would say that Mac OS 9.1 was not installed.
So I decided to copy the system folder from my OS 9.1 intall disk to my hard drive(big mistake).
Then I went on Preferences, Startup disk, and it showed the icons of Mac OS X Tiger and Classic 9.1.So I decided to put Classic as startup disk(bigger mistake)because now,my Mac won't boot.It keeps saying
"The system software on the startup disk only functions on the original media,not if copied on another disk.
Now even if I try to boot with my install disk,OS 9.1 or Panther or Tiger,it just won,t boot from the disk.There is that little window with ? in it.
Now I have a Mac that won't boot.
Please,can anyone help me out
Thank you
Mario

Mario:
I don't mind reformating my HDD and do a clean installation but I cannot boot no matter what i do.
This may be a problem, as you will need to be able to boot from both the OS 9 install disk and the Tiger install disk. If you are not able to boot it may be that you are having an issue with the optical drive. In any case, I will post some directions and we will see if you can manage to get it going. First we will do a complete low level format with the OS 9 installer, install and update OS 9 and then when that is working satisfactorily we will install and update Tiger. All of this, of course, is dependent on whether you can boot from the optical drive.
Format and Install OS 9
This process will completely erase everything on your Hard Disk Drive. Be sure to Backup your User Folder and all third party apps you can't afford to lose
• Boot from your OS 9 install CD holding down C key.
• Go to Drive Setup and reformat your drive as Mac OS Extended (HFS+)
• Reinstall OS 9
• Update to 9.2.2: Mac OS 9: Available Updates
• Update your firmware
Once this is completed, you are ready to install Tiger.
Installation Process
• With computer shut down insert install disk in optical drive.
• Hit Power button and immediately after chime hold down the "C" key.
• Select language
• Open Installer and begin installation.
• Select installation option as Archive and Install. *This is important as you do not want to overwrite OS 9, which you just installed.*
• Choose to Customize and deselect Foreign Language Translations and Additional Printer drivers.
Optional: Check box to install X11 (Tiger and later) BSD Subsystems (Panther & earlier).
• Proceed with installation.
• After installation computer will restart for setup.
• After setup, reboot computer.
• Go to Applications > Utilities > Disk Utility.
• Select your HDD (manufacturer ID) in left side bar.
• Select First Aid in main panel.
• Click Repair Disk Permissions.
• Connect to Internet.
• Download and install Mac OS X 10.4.11 Combo update (PPC) (Tiger).
• Repair Disk Permissions as previously.
• Go to Apple Menu > Software Update.
• Install all updates.
Computer may restart after updates.
• Go to Applications > Utilities > Disk Utility.
• Select your HDD (manufacturer ID) in left side bar.
• Select First Aid in main panel.
• Click Repair Disk Permissions.
cornelius

Having trouble installing 10.3 on a Blue & White Mac G3

Help! Having lots of trouble trying to reinstall 10.3 on a Power Mac G3 Blue & White. It loads the first CD and then it does not reboot. When I pull the plug to shut it off (because it won't shut off any other way), I get the prohibitory sign. This machine meets the 10.3 reqs. I have run disk utilities from the OS disk and even Norton Disk Doctor and Optimised the drive.
I can't find anything from the apple docs that helps. I've tried a few things, but I can't get 10.3 to load, and I tried to load in 9.0 and it does the sme thing. I get the Prohibitory sign when I reboot.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
TB

TBigdrum:
I have run Norton Utilities from the disk. I used Norton Utilities to erase the drive. I did use OS X to erase the drive as well. Both drives in fact. Norton was not and is not installed on either of the HDs.
Even if you run Norton from disk, it can wreak havoc with directories in Mac OS X. You need to format the HDD with Disk Utility. That will remove all trace of Norton and, so long as you don't put that disk back in there, you should be ok after that.
Formatting, Partitioning Erasing a Hard Disk Drive
Warning! This procedure will destroy all data on your Hard Disk Drive. Be sure you have an up-to-date, tested backup of at least your Users folder and any third party applications you do not want to re-install before attempting this procedure.
Boot from the install CD holding down the "C" key.
Select language
Go to the Utilities menu (Tiger) Installer menu (Panther & earlier) and launch Disk Utility.
Select your HDD (manufacturer ID) in left side bar.
Select Partition tab in main panel. (You are about to create a single partition volume.)
Select number of partition in pull-down menu above Volume diagram.
(Note 1: One partition is normally preferable for an internal HDD.)
Type in name in Name field (usually Macintosh HD)
Select Volume Format as Mac OS Extended (Journaled)
Click Partition button at bottom of panel.
Select Erase tab
Select the sub-volume (indented) under Manufacturer ID (usually Macintosh HD).
Check to be sure your Volume Name and Volume Format are correct.
Click Erase button
Quit Disk Utility.
Open installer and begin installation process.
Please do post back with further questions or comments.
Cheers
cornelius

Blue & White G3 upgrade to G4?

Hello - I have an old G3 Blue/white which I would like to use to run a slideshow in my gallery. How do I upgrade this machine to achieve this? I don't need to use the machine for anything beyond running a slideshow through an LCD projector. Thanks.

What are the requirements of the slide show app? What are the specs on your G3 B&W?
If your G3 is near stock, it's probably worth less than $50. So it's not cost effective to spend many $ on an upgrade.
 Cheers, Tom

What type of screws on PowerMac G3 Blue & White tower?

What kind of screws are being used on the PowerMac G3 Blue & White tower (for example, the ones that keep the handles and feet in place)? Hex (Allen) screws?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hex_key

Yes they are screws, and yes they have Allen (hex) heads. Mine respond well to M2.5 mm Allen wrench, and in a pinch a 3/32 inch is a little sloppy, but seems to work.

Power Mac Desktop G3 Blue & White - Bad Battery?

Hello all - I just found you G3 guys here
I have this older G3 Blue & White 350 mhz loaded with OS 9.1, and I haven't powered it up for a number of years. When I went to power it up, the network clock was naturally out of wack. Got an error which said:
Network Time in error set for 1956. I reset the time and date several times, and although it works briefly, it won't keep accurate time. Is this indicative of a battery replacement? The battery is small and cylindrical - shaped like a camera battery - Not Flat.
Yes? And if so, is it any big deal to replace? Do I need to reset anything?
And another problem is that the power button periodically gets stuck. Sometimes it retracts, and sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes the machine is starting to boot, when it just cuts off. If I wait a while, it can eventually start and boot up completely but usually gives the bad time error message again. Is this a separate issue? Or could it be related to a bad battery, and bad time and date?
Thank you
Mike

ENIGMACODE,
Yes, the minature - 1/2 AA height - battery is the one to replace. Radio Shack sells them for $15 or you can shop on line and find some for half that.
If you have a power strip and all components are plugged in, when you turn off the power strip, you turn off the only source of power to keep you clock going. You can shut down the computer but not turn off the power strip and the clock will continue to work fine. My B&W has gone more than a year on a dead battery.
If you startup, set the clock, then hit restart, the correct time should be retained in memory because the power is not interupted. If it loses the time during that reset or restart, you have other issues.
The sticking power button is most likely misaligned plastic. Double check to make sure that it is not sticking. Then use the keyboard to turn on and off the computer. That will isolate the switch to see if the problems are related or not.
Jim

Are Blue & White G3's obsolete for Tiger?

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