Aspiring photographer.

Looking to buy a camera for my trip to Europe this summer and I've narrowed my options to the EOS 6D, 7D Mark II, 7D, 70 D, and 60 Da. Which one is the best suit, please provide your reasoning behind your choice.

Hopefully you've permanently scratched the 60Da off your list. The "a" stands for "astrophotography" and it's a special-purpose camera with a modified IR cut filter to allow vastly more reds (specially they're going after the Hydrogen alpha band at about 656nm). While the camera can still attach normal lenses and be used like any other camera, you'd notice ever image is is very strong in reds.
The 6D and 7D II are VERY different cameras.
The 7D II is an APS-C sensor camera, but in every other respect it's a pro body. It's very durable. It's heavily optimized for action photography. It also has a very sophisticated auto-focus system which is not necessarily intuitive. Anyone buying such a camera really sould plan to sit down and go through it's features and especially spend some time understanding the focus system. I do know of at least one person who owns a 5D III (which has nearly the same focus system) and was surprised to learn they pretty much found a way to get the camera to use a single center point and have never changed modes... ever. They admitted it's because they don't understand the focus system. I pointed them to the docs & videos on it (Canon has a special document on just the focus system.)
I think I'd love a 7D II... but if you're looking for a camera that can be used by a casual user... the 7D II might be a bit much.
And then there's the 6D.
The 6D has extremely good ISO performance and a focus system that can focus down to -3 EV. It's an outstanding camera if you have to shoot in low light. The focus system is relatively simple... it has an 11 point system which very strongly resembles the system you'd find on the Rebel bodies. The focus system is friendlier toward casual shooting and this is considered an "entry" full-frame body (but "entry" for full frame is still very high end).
But it is also a "full frame" camera so you can't use the EF-S lenses (those only work on crop-frame sensor bodies). This means every lens you use will have a wider angle of view as compared to an APS-C crop-frame sensor body (like a 7D II). It's also able to generate stronger background blur (full frame cameras naturally have a narrower depth of field.)
This makes the 6D a better camera for things like (a) low light, (b) portraiture, (c) landscape, (d) architecture (especially interiors). But it would be a worse camera for sports & wildlife (action photography).
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Similar Messages

Aspiring Photographer, Which MacBook should I buy?

I'm looking for which MacBook I should buy (Air vs. Pro vs. Retina; 13" vs. 15"). I'm aspiring to become a photographer and hopefully get to travel around the world. I don't care at all about weight of the MacBook; if I have to lug it around, then I will. I just wish for it to have enough battery life that'll get me through the day (maybe a movie or two for plane rides), fast, great screen resolution, and quite a lot of memory to store my photos as well as editing them. I am making the switch from a Windows PC and this will be the second Apple product I will have ever purchased (first being an iPod Touch). I am in no hurry to buy one and price will definitely be taken into consideration. Duly note that I don't speak 'computer', so as much as possible I request that suggestions and comparisions be typed in simpler terms. Thank you for help and the time it took for you to read/respond to my question ^-^. Have a wonderful day ^-^.

The MacBook Air is still my favourite. It has the newest features, and its battery life and light weight are two important features the others can't match.
The Retina display is undeniably gorgeous, but that's the extent of its appeal. The MBA's display is very sharp and more than adequate for every imaginable purpose. Everyone who picks up my MBAs remark on how light they are. That doesn't surprise me any more, but it is the one Mac I use most often, probably owing to its portability. I can count on at least three days of battery life during occasional use. Configured the way you indicate, it will almost certainly suffice for the duration of your undergraduate work and is unlikely to become obsolete for years thereafter.

Calibrated Monitor Issues

I was wondering if anyone has encountered this problem.
I bought a Pantone Huey Pro color calibrator for my Macbook Pro and I seem to be having some issues with the way Photoshop is handling it.
I calibrated my monitor and everything looks perfect. Colors look balanced and nice. However I seem to be having some issues with Photoshop. I will open an image in photoshop, edit it a bunch, etc. The image looks perfect on my screen. Colors look great, contrast, etc. Everything just like i want it.
So i save it and post it up on the web. However it has become apparent that what i am seeing is completely different than what my friend sees and so on. He is saying my pictures look weird and overly saturated and warm. Yet on my screen they look great. I don't know what to do. I am a graphic designer and aspiring photographer yet i can't trust my screen.
Here is one image: http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/6484/27038vs047122616locopyua0.jpg
On my screen this looks good. I have no idea what it looks like on others.
Do i have to change photoshop's color settings or export the images a certain way?
Thanks in advance,
Cameron

It appears that this image is sRGB but that you did not embed the profile when you saved for Web.
Your image will only look correct to someone who has a wide-gamut monitor if you convert to sRGB and embed the sRGB Profile when saving for web. But that only works if they are using a color-managed Browser (of which there are only two: Safari and Firefox provided that the User has configured his copy of Firefox to be Color-Managed).

Panasonic DMC-FZ28 vs. Canon Powershot SX10 IS

I have a friend that firmly believes that Canon will always be better then a Panasonic. My problem is that I'm working on a budget here. The Canon is relatively $30-$100 more than the Panasonic; however I am willing to pay the price difference if it means having the better camera for photoshots and the like.
I am an aspiring photograpgher and I am naive to the workings in the camera world-any help between the two choices is much appreciated. =)

Hi Bow313,
Both of these cameras are very nice, and are very close in features. Canon is one of the most respected brands in photography, but I will say that Panasonic has made great strides in the last decade. You will most likely be equally satisfied with either of these cameras.
You mentioned you are an aspiring photographer, and because of this I do have to recommend you look into purchasing a DSLR. A DSLR would give you the flexibility and the durability that these to cameras just don't provide the user. I do realize that this might not be an option for you, but for another $200 you could get a camera that should take far superior images to the two cameras you mentioned, and if properly taken care of could last you a lifetime.
Thanks for posting,
Allan
Community Connector
Best Buy® Corporate
Allan|Senior Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
Private Message

Take the plunge with Creative Cloud?

I am new to Adobe products and services. i am an aspiring photographer and I already have Lightroom 5. Should I enroll in Creative Cloud so I can own and learn Photoshop CS6?

With CS6 you have the choice to own or subscribe.
The Cloud version of Photoshop is now Photoshop CC (the next version after CS6).
Whether it's worthwhile for you really depends on what you want to do.
Try downloading the trial version first and take it for a spin.
Your other option is Photoshop Elements 11.

I have a brand new MacBook Air 11 inch, 4gb RAM and 256 gb SSD where the screen flickered abnormally and got dead all of a sudden while uploading a photograph in FB. Can anybody help?

I have a new MacBook Air 11 inch, 4gb RAM, 256 SSD and use Mavericks OS. It is still under waranty period.
Just few days ago while I was uploading a photograph in facebook, the screen started flickering abnoromally. I tried using the escape button but nothing was working so switched off by pressing the power button.
After few minutes I tried to switch it on but my system never waked up. Called up the Apple Support, did SMC and PRAM but nothing worked. Then I was advised to take it to Apple's authorised service centre.
At the service centre the engineers diagnoised and then said that the MLB/mother board needs to be replaced. Had waited for six-long days and today they had replaced the MLB/mother board. Now, the system came to life but nothing has booted. The screen goes white and a '?' question mark icon keeps on flickering.
After thoroughly diagnoising it the engineer said that now the problem is with the SSD and the worse thing is all my important documents and photographs etc are no more there. And I don't have a backup of the same!
While Apple Support contact centre is assuring they would replace any other parts if found faulty, but I feel differently. First, the MLB/mother board was changed now they say it is SSD problem - so if the SSD too is replaced there are possibilities of more faults coming up. All I can see and feel that this particular machine has turned out to be architectually deffective that calls for immediate replacement.
Right now I am using a friend's windows pc to write this mail.
Feeling completely miserable - all my expectatations gone after investing in such an expensive machine, loss of all my data, wastage of time and energy and to top it all affecting my daily work.
Can anybody please advise what shall I do?

Take the system to an Apple store to be fixed or replaced as the one you have has defective hardware.

How can I create a silky gauzy dress for a model in a photograph?

I am trying to create fabric, a long white flowing dress for a model in one of my photographs. Does any one have any tips for a relatively easy way to do this in Photoshop. She is in shorts and a tank top and I thought I could figure out an easy way to paint on a dress for her, but so far I am not having any luck....Thanks for any suggestions.

Painting a dress from scratch is most difficult, unless you are an artist with a lot of experience.
The much easier way is to search for a photograph of a dress you like, then cut and paste it to the new photo. The key here is to have both pictues with the same light angle so the shadows are in the right spot.
Once you get it pasted, click Ctrl T then size and rotate it. The next stop is to use edit/warp to reshape dress to fit model. You can fine tune it with puppet warp.
Final step is to erase any excess dress material and add body shadows as needed to match the original shot.
Take a New Snapshot every so often so if you make mistake you do not have to go back to square 1, but can restart at snapshot X. Save PSD every so often in case program crashes.
Hope this helps.

Install Windows 8.1 Pro on Acer Aspire V Nitro VN7-591

Hi forum, I recently bought the Acer Aspire V Nitro VN7-591 and I noticed that it only comes with the Core Edition of Windows 8.1. As I need some of the features of the Windows 8.1 Pro Edition (joining domains, remote display etc.) I would like to upgrade the System to Windows 8.1 Pro. I still have an unused Pro retail key (no OEM, no Upgrade Pack) here so at the moment I'm downloading the ISO for Windows 8.1 Pro. But prior to installation I would like to make sure that everything works out fine and I don't run intro problems. First of all: is there anything I need to save from the old OS (except from the recovery partition- I already saved that to a USB drive using the recovery program provided by Acer)? Do I have to know my Product Key (using for example a key viewer software) just in case? Do I have to disable secure boot in BIOS? Second: can I just install Windows 8.1 Pro using my ISO and installing the drivers from the Acer support website? Drivers should still work, right? Third: if I ever want to switch back to Windows 8.1 Core (the OEM edition) do I just use the USB pen drive created with the acer recovery tool? Will my retail Windows 8.1 Pro Key be usable again if I switch back to the original OS? Sorry for asking that many questions but I just have to make sure that it runs trough right in the first place because I need the Laptop to function. What would be your standard procedure to this kind of "problem"? Thanks in advance and with regards,The_DJ Edit:I might have forgotten to mention that I want to do a clean reinstall without all the bloatware from Acer. That's why I'm using the Windows 8.1 Pro "Vanilla" ISO and if I ever want to switch back to core use the Windows 8.1 Core "Vanilla" ISO. Is that possible or would I have to use the recovery partition saved to my USB drive?

Changing the Operating System may cause driver conflicts. The compatible drivers for Windows 8.1 will not be available in the website for this laptop. Hence, some of the features on the laptop might not work after changing the OS. 1: Since you have already created the USB recovery media from the laptop, you do not have to copy anything else other than this. Make sure you you backup all files before installing the OS, as it will remove all data from the laptop. I see that, you have the unused Pro retail key for the OS, hence, you do not have to have the OEM product key. You need to use the product key for Windows 8.1 Pro to activate it, not the Acer OEM product key. In the BIOS, select BOOT tab. Select BOOT MODE as Legacy Mode instead of UEFI.Disable Secure Boot. Under Boot Priority Order, you need to select 1 as CD/DVD (if you are using disc), or USB FDD or USB HDD (if you are using USB drive) to install Windows 8.1 Pro. Then press the F10 key and select "Yes" to save the changes in BIOS. ->You an install Windows 8.1 Pro using my ISO and installing the drivers from the Acer support website. As said before, there may driver conflicts. -> If you want to switch back to Windows 8.1, you may use the USB reovery drive (which created you have created from the recovery partition). When you do this, the Windows 8.1 Pro and it's product key will be removed from the laptop and the factory shipped OS, drivers, apps (and the OEM product key) will be installed automatically. You do not have to use the Windows 8.1 Pro key with Acer OEM USB reovery media. -> You need to do a clean install using the USB recovery drive to install factory shipped Windows on the laptop.

I received our wedding photos on a USB flash drive from our professional photographer. I am trying to get these photos on my ipad 4.

I have enough room on my ipad for all 600 photos.
I have tried to sync the photos through iTunes by choosing the USB drive on my computer. The folder appears empty.
I have purchased a lightning to USB camera kit and nothing happened once I plugged the USB into the ipad.
I thought since the lighting to SD card reader I've been using with my camera works maybe I'll try uploading a photo or two onto the SD card and use the lighting to SD card reader and do it that way. I see the photo I chose on the camera when the SD card is inserted into my desktop, but once I insert it into the camera kit on ipad it doesn't show up. The other photos I have taken show up but not the ones I copied over onto it show up.
I wonder if our photographer saved the photos in such a way to prevent me from syncing them? I have permission and the rights to use them so that's probably unlikely. The photos are saved as jpegs.
My other thought is maybe the photos are too large in size to upload onto the ipad? Is there a limit? Under properties they are listed around 400kb and 1800x1200 in dimension.
Please help! I'm wanting to make a photo book for the holidays as a gift with one of the ipad apps.
Thank you in advance

Hi Kat U,
Many thanks for your question today.
I am happy to assist you in this process and this method of helping you today will not involve you using your Camera Connection Kit from Apple.
This method of downloading images onto the iPad requires the following items:
The USB
A computer/Mac with a USB Port
The iPad
iTunes (preferably iTunes 11, but it won't make much difference if you have iTunes 10)
Before we start I have based this resolution on the basis that you use:
iPad 4 with iOS 7.0.0 or better
iTunes 10 or better
Mac OS X Mountain Lion or better or Windows 7 or better
Here are my steps to resolve your issue:
Insert the USB drive into your computer and then go into the folder in windows explorer or finder where the images are saved on your USB.
Save all the images from the USB under one folder on your own folder in your document/image folders (not on the USB). On the Hard Drive
Remove your USB stick from your computer
Insert your iPad with the lightning connector into your Mac/PC.
When iTunes pops up click on the iPad icon/textbox - it may say (i.e. Name's iPad). (If iTunes does not pop up open it up manually by clicking twice on the icon on your desktop or Dock Taskbar).
Click on Photo's Tab and the tick the tick box for: sync photos from
Click my pictures (located next to sync photos from), then navigate around your folders until you choose the folder where you copied your images from the USB stick to and once you have found the folder click select folder.
Press sync.
Go to your iPad once it has synced and log in, click on photos then albums (located bottom right of the menu/screen) then click on the Album of the images - (its name will be what the Album's name was on your computer).
Your images should be located there.
If this resolution does not work, you have three other options
Try the solution provided by the gentleman above using the Camera Connection Kit
Call Apple - American number is 1800-MY-APPLE (1800-692-7753) and go through to AppleCare for iPad
Take the USB and iPad to your closest Apple Store and get a Genius to look and possibly fix the problem.
Many Thanks for your question and allowing me the time to possibly resolve your issue. I hope to hear from you soon regarding this issue.
iBenjamin
<Email Edited by Host>

I used to have an OLD Photoshop cd but it has been lost and my program is no longer on cd. I talked with some photographer friends and this is what one of them told me to get: Adobe Photoshop Lightroom and CS CC... HELP please?

I used to have an OLD Photoshop cd but it has been lost and my program is no longer on cd. I talked with some photographer friends and this is what one of them told me to get: Adobe Photoshop Lightroom and CS CC... HELP please?

If you still have your serial number, look at OLDER previous versions http://www.adobe.com/downloads/other-downloads.html
Otherwise, the US$ 9.99 plan is what is current at Cloud Plans https://creative.adobe.com/plans

How do I upload photographs from browser in Windows 7?

I don't see the option to upload photographs in my adobe revel window in my browser. Could you help please?
I am using a windows 7 PC with Internet Explorer 9

http://forums.adobe.com/community/revel
This forum is about the Cloud as a delivery process, not about using individual programs
If you start at the Forums Index http://forums.adobe.com/index.jspa
You will be able to select a forum for the specific Adobe product(s) you use
Click the "down arrow" symbol on the right (where it says ALL FORUMS) to open the drop down list and scroll

How much future useage for CS6 for a stand-alone photographer?

I'm a semi professional small-scale photographer. It's a hobby, but I do some commercial work. It certainly isn't a living (I have other income)
I've been on CS6 for some time. It does absolutely everything that I need, and in fact it's too much. I could do with an application that's somewhere between Lightroom+Elements and CS6. It doesn't exist.
But as I've paid for CS6 I'm quite happy to keep on using it ad infinitum - after all, with no more upgrades (CS7 etc) it's free now! But at a realistic level how long can I run it for, do you think? I run a good spec desktop PC with Windows 7. I use CS6 in 64bit mode, and also Bridge. Assuming my PC fails in 12 months time (it's three years old) I will get a new destop using Windows 8. CS6 will run under Windows 8, so no problems there. My new desktop may last 5 years? That gives me a total of 6 years using CS6.
Of course, there will need to be support from Adobe for CS6, in particular if any significant bugs arise. But why should there be new bugs, unless they are in relation to third-party plugins etc? CS6 has been out for some time. Adobe are not going to change it (they have their head stuck in a cloud) so it shouldn't get broken. Or am I wrong in thinking that?
Any thoughts?
To upgrade to CS6 http://www.adobe.com/uk/products/catalog/cs6._sl_id-contentfilter_sl_catalog_sl_software_s l_creativesuite6.html?start=10
In the Photoshop CS6 row, click the Buy link
"I want to buy:", click on the dropdown menu and select Upgrade
click "I own" and on the dropdown menu select the relevant product which you already own
Follow the prompts from there to complete the purchase

Curt Y wrote:
That is the problem you have with any upgrade if you use the new features.
CC is more a trap then an upgrade.
A Photoshop only user is better off staying with CS6 and not be being trap.
While I would prefer to have the new features being added to ACR. I do not need the new improved old features with their new interfaces, new icons and new bugs. These change post processing work flow they only seem to slow user down and make more work for them. I also do not need or want the 3D tools. Photoshop is not a 3D program by design. Photoshop 3D feature is more an add-on and lacks features found in real 3D creation programs.
I want a stable image editor. While CS6 has bugs I know which bugs effect my work and know my way around most. Photoshop CS6 still occasionally crashes from time to time but now on my new machine it only seems to happen in SciptUIFlex and I can use Photoshop for days without a crash. Today was not one of them.
To tell you the truth all upgrade after CS3 have been plagued with bugs. I was not looking forward to having to upgrade to CS7.
It look like CC has its share of bugs too. Though CC seems to be starting off better then CS6 did. While there have been a few dozen bugs reported in Adobe's Photoshop Family problem forum. That is not a large number and most are not problems with CC crashing.

Is there a phone number to call Adobe. I go around an endless loop pressing their contact info tabs? Maybe someone at this sight can help. I am new to digital photo - I have been a B&W film photographer for many years. I have a problem with a Macbook Ai

Is there a phone number to call Adobe. I go around an endless loop pressing their contact info tabs? Maybe someone at this sight can help. I am new to digital photo - I have been a B&W film photographer for many years. I have a problem with a Macbook Air. It was working fine - I was using LR and a message came on the screen that said something like the memory was dangerously low. I stopped and tried to delete LR files. I couldn't do it. I closed the program and tried reopening and got the message that there is not enough memory available to open LR. I contacted Apple. They spent a half hour on the phone with me and eventually told me they didn't know how to help. The tech said that LR had gobbled up all the memory and said I should contact Adobe and ask where and how my photo files are stored and to delete them. I have several back-ups. Thanks - Arthur

This sort of error message only comes up for Lightroom when your hard disk is full. Indeed this has nothing to do with internal memory as that will be intelligently be dealt with. If you have a mac Book Air that is not so surprising as the cheapest versions come with very small hard disks and if you shoot raw with any recent camera, you'll fill up your hard disk very quickly and you can probably only store a few months of pictures if you are a typical photographer. So the bottom line is that you need to create some room on your hard disk. You should move some of your originals to an external hard disk. You can also delete some of your backup copies of your catalog file that Lightroom automatically generates every few days and that quickly gobble up hard disk space. So first figure out how full your hard disk is. To see that, go to the apple menu, hit -> About this Mac -> More info->Storage. You should see your internal hard disk on top and you'll find that it is almost entirely full with photos. Now find your Lightroom catalog file using Finder. It is usually in a folder in the Pictures folder in your home directory. You should see a Lightroom 5 Catalog.lrcat file, a previews file and a folder called backups. Inside the backups folder, you'll find a lot of subfolders. They have names that show the dates the backups were created. If you have backups of your entire hard disk, you can delete these backups when they are older than a few months. I usually only keep the last 4 around. Just drag the folders into the trash can on the dock on the bottom of your screen and empty the trash. This will probably free up enough space that Lightroom will already run again. Now start thinking about where you will want to store older images. If you have a good USB3 or Thunderbolt hard disk that is probably the best option. There is a video here by Adobe that has some instructions on how to do this: Is Your Hard Drive Full? Here’s How to Move Images to Another Drive in Lightroom. « Julieanne Kost's Blog If that doesn't work because you don't have enough hard drive space to run Lightroom yet, here is another set of instructions to move your files using the finder to the other hard disk: How do I move only my photos to another hard drive, leaving the catalog where it is? - The Lightroom Queen. If you follow that, as soon as you confirm all your images are on the new hard disk, you can delete them from your internal one. She is not so clear about that part but if you don't delete the originals that you moved off you don't free up space. You should move the folder structure over to the new hard disk and then reconnect the folders in Lightroom. That should make it refind all your images.
That said, if you are uncomfortable with the computer in itself, your best bet is to find a local photography club. There is invariably a Lightroom savvy person in there that could help you move your files. That might be your best bet if you are uncomfortable moving these yourself. A general mac savvy person like you would find at an Apple store or so generally will not be able to help you with this except when they are photographers themselves and know Lightroom. You might get lucky with that.

[Solved] Suspend to ram doesn't work correctly on Acer Aspire 5100

Hi people of the archlinux forum.
Finally I decided to change from ubuntu to archlinux because I wanted to learn more about the world of linux.:D
I have already almost completely set up my laptop, but I have a problem when suspending to ram. The problem comes out when i wake up the laptop, and the screen starts to flicker and will not go away until i restart the laptop.
This is my laptop after the suspend:
I'm using pm-utils to suspend and hibernate my laptop, and the hibernate works fine. All settings were made following the arch wiki.
this is my xorg.conf
Section "ServerLayout"
Identifier "X.org Configured"
Screen 0 "Screen0" 0 0
InputDevice "Mouse0" "CorePointer"
InputDevice "Keyboard0" "CoreKeyboard"
EndSection
Section "Files"
ModulePath "/usr/lib/xorg/modules"
FontPath "/usr/share/fonts/misc"
FontPath "/usr/share/fonts/100dpi:unscaled"
FontPath "/usr/share/fonts/75dpi:unscaled"
FontPath "/usr/share/fonts/TTF"
FontPath "/usr/share/fonts/Type1"
EndSection
Section "Module"
Load "dri"
Load "extmod"
Load "glx"
Load "dbe"
Load "dri2"
Load "record"
EndSection
Section "InputDevice"
Identifier "Keyboard0"
Driver "kbd"
EndSection
Section "InputDevice"
Identifier "Mouse0"
Driver "mouse"
Option "Protocol" "auto"
Option "Device" "/dev/input/mice"
Option "ZAxisMapping" "4 5 6 7"
EndSection
Section "Monitor"
#DisplaySize 330 210 # mm
Identifier "Monitor0"
VendorName "AUO"
ModelName "2174"
EndSection
Section "Device"
### Available Driver options are:-
### Values: : integer, <f>: float, <bool>: "True"/"False",
### <string>: "String", <freq>: "<f> Hz/kHz/MHz"
### [arg]: arg optional
#Option "NoAccel" # [<bool>]
#Option "SWcursor" # [<bool>]
#Option "Dac6Bit" # [<bool>]
#Option "Dac8Bit" # [<bool>]
#Option "BusType" # [<str>]
#Option "CPPIOMode" # [<bool>]
#Option "CPusecTimeout" # 
#Option "AGPMode" # 
#Option "AGPFastWrite" # [<bool>]
#Option "AGPSize" # 
#Option "GARTSize" # 
#Option "RingSize" # 
#Option "BufferSize" # 
#Option "EnableDepthMoves" # [<bool>]
#Option "EnablePageFlip" # [<bool>]
#Option "NoBackBuffer" # [<bool>]
#Option "DMAForXv" # [<bool>]
#Option "FBTexPercent" # 
#Option "DepthBits" # 
#Option "PCIAPERSize" # 
#Option "AccelDFS" # [<bool>]
#Option "IgnoreEDID" # [<bool>]
#Option "CustomEDID" # [<str>]
#Option "DisplayPriority" # [<str>]
#Option "PanelSize" # [<str>]
#Option "ForceMinDotClock" # <freq>
#Option "ColorTiling" # [<bool>]
#Option "VideoKey" # 
#Option "RageTheatreCrystal" # 
#Option "RageTheatreTunerPort" # 
#Option "RageTheatreCompositePort" # 
#Option "RageTheatreSVideoPort" # 
#Option "TunerType" # 
#Option "RageTheatreMicrocPath" # <str>
#Option "RageTheatreMicrocType" # <str>
#Option "ScalerWidth" # 
#Option "RenderAccel" # [<bool>]
#Option "SubPixelOrder" # [<str>]
#Option "ShowCache" # [<bool>]
#Option "ClockGating" # [<bool>]
#Option "VGAAccess" # [<bool>]
#Option "ReverseDDC" # [<bool>]
#Option "LVDSProbePLL" # [<bool>]
#Option "AccelMethod" # <str>
#Option "DRI" # [<bool>]
#Option "ConnectorTable" # <str>
#Option "DefaultConnectorTable" # [<bool>]
#Option "DefaultTMDSPLL" # [<bool>]
#Option "TVDACLoadDetect" # [<bool>]
#Option "ForceTVOut" # [<bool>]
#Option "TVStandard" # <str>
#Option "IgnoreLidStatus" # [<bool>]
#Option "DefaultTVDACAdj" # [<bool>]
#Option "Int10" # [<bool>]
#Option "EXAVSync" # [<bool>]
#Option "ATOMTVOut" # [<bool>]
#Option "R4xxATOM" # [<bool>]
#Option "ForceLowPowerMode" # [<bool>]
#Option "DynamicPM" # [<bool>]
#Option "NewPLL" # [<bool>]
#Option "ZaphodHeads" # <str>
Identifier "Card0"
Driver "radeon"
VendorName "ATI Technologies Inc"
BoardName "RS482 [Radeon Xpress 200M]"
BusID "PCI:1:5:0"
EndSection
Section "Screen"
Identifier "Screen0"
Device "Card0"
Monitor "Monitor0"
SubSection "Display"
Viewport 0 0
Depth 1
EndSubSection
SubSection "Display"
Viewport 0 0
Depth 4
EndSubSection
SubSection "Display"
Viewport 0 0
Depth 8
EndSubSection
SubSection "Display"
Viewport 0 0
Depth 15
EndSubSection
SubSection "Display"
Viewport 0 0
Depth 16
EndSubSection
SubSection "Display"
Viewport 0 0
Depth 24
EndSubSection
EndSection
I know you maybe need more info, but i don't really know what do you need... please tell me what do you need and a post it!
Sorry for my english this isn't my native languaje... Thanks you for all
Last edited by geonunez (2010-07-08 20:19:09)

I have the same problem with my Acer Aspire 5100 (video ATI Xpress1100).
xorg.conf is not used. Turning KMS off doesn`t help.
I have tried to use uswsusp, but it doesn`t help. s2ram -n output correctly identify my laptop, which means it is in "whitelist" and correct settings for this hardware is known. s2ram suspend works, but screen blinking after waking up remains the same.
[Sydorenko@SLE ~]$ sudo s2ram -n
Machine matched entry 17:
sys_vendor = 'Acer *'
sys_product = 'Aspire 5100 *'
sys_version = ''
bios_version = ''
Fixes: 0x3 S3_BIOS S3_MODE
This machine can be identified by:
sys_vendor = "Acer "
sys_product = "Aspire 5100 "
sys_version = "V3.10A"
bios_version = "V3.10A"
See http://suspend.sf.net/s2ram-support.html for details.
Last edited by SydMax (2010-06-06 16:53:50)

I would appreciate it if someone could advise me as to the optimum resolution, dimensions and dpi for actual photographic slides that I am scanning for use in a Keynote Presentation, that will be projected in a large auditorium. I realize that most proje

I would appreciate it if someone could advise me as to the optimum resolution, dimensions and dpi for actual photographic slides that I am scanning for use in a Keynote Presentation, that will be projected in a large auditorium. I realize that most projectors in auditoriums that I will be using have 1024 x 1200 pixels, and possibly 1600 x 1200. There is no reference to this issue in the Keynote Tutorial supplied by Apple, and I have never found a definitive answer to this issue online (although there may be one).
Here’s my question: When scanning my photographic slides, what setting, from 72 dpi to 300 dpi, would result in the best image quality and use up the most efficient amount of space?
Here’s what two different photo slide scanning service suppliers have told me:
Supplier No. 1 tells me that they can scan slides to a size of 1544 x 1024 pixels, at 72 dpi, which will be 763 KB, and they refer to this as low resolution (a JPEG). However, I noticed when I looked at these scanned slides, the size of the slides varied, with a maximum of 1.8 MB. This supplier says that the dpi doesn’t matter when it comes to the quality of the final digital image, that it is the dimensions that matter. They say that if they scanned a slide to a higher resolution (2048 x 3072), they would still scan it at 72 dpi.
Supplier No. 2: They tell me that in order to have a high quality image made from a photographic slide (starting with a 35 mm slide, in all cases), I need to have a “1280 pixel dimension slide, a JPEG, at 300 dpi, that is 8 MB per image.” However, this supplier also offers, on its list of services, a “Standard Resolution JPEG (4MB file/image – 3088 x 2048), as well as a “High Resolution JPEG (8 MB file/image – 3088x2048).
I will be presenting my Keynotes with my MacBook Pro, and will not have a chance to try out the presentations in advance, since the lecture location is far from my home, so that is not an option.
I do not want to use up more memory than necessary on my laptop. I also want to have the best quality image.
One more question: When scanning images myself, on my own scanner, for my Keynote presentations, would I be better off scanning them as JPEGs or TIFFs? I have been told that a TIFF is better because it is less compressed.
Any enlightenment on this subject would be appreciated.
Thank you.

When it comes to Keynote, I try and start with a presentation that's 1680 x 1050 preset or something in that range. Most projectors that you'll get at a conference won't project much higher than that and if they run at a lower resolution, it's better to have the device downsize your Keynote. Anything is better than having the projector try and upsize your presentation... you work hard to make it look good, and it's mangled by some tired Epson projector.
As far as slides go, scan them in at 150 dpi or better, and make them at least the dimensions of your presentation. Keynote is really only wanting 72dpi, but I do them at 150, just in case I need to print out the presentation as a handout later, and having the pix at 150 dpi gives me a little help with their quality on a printer.
You'd probably have to drop in the 150 versions again if you output the Keynote to .pdf or Word or something, but at least you have the option.
And Gary's right (above) go ahead and scan them as TIFFs. Sooner or later you'll want to do something else with these slides (like make something for an iPad or the like) and having them as TIFFs keeps your presentation looking good.
Finally, and this is a big one, get to the location for your presentation ahead of time if you can, and plug the laptop in and see what you get. There's always connection problems. Don't let the AV bonehead tell you everything will work just fine ('... I don't have any adapters for a Mac...') . See it for yourself... you're the one that's standing up there. Unless it's your boss, then you better be really sure it works.

Aspiring photographer.

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for