ATI vid.card trouble shoot guide
True,
There seem to be some stabilty issues with ATI, all of which can be overcome.
First is the VPU recover option. That option makes it less stable and does nothing beneficial, best turn it off.
Also faste write (bios option), it doesn't enhance performance, only decreases stabalitity.
If it is still unstable, set AGP to 4x. This makes it slighly (less then 1pct. ) slower, but might make it more stable.
Other drivers occasionly might help. For older cards, older drivers are best suitable. E.g. a R9700 runs best on Cat 4.5. Do make sure the driver you use supports the DirectX version that you need !
Last resort is upping the AGP voltage (no more then 0,1v !). If it is still instable, RMA it !
Despite the issues, I still think ATI makes very good vid.cards. My next card wil probably be an ATI again
And I thougt you were my friend
Look here for the performance difference fast write and AGP4x make:
http://www.pctuning.cz/Default.aspx?CatID=75&LayId=2&ArtId=19189&ChapID=4944
These tests have been done with a 9700PRO the difference will probably be more significant with a faster card.
Furthermore, take into account that a 9600 draws from the 5v line, the 9700, 9800 and X800 draw from the 12v line as well.
Similar Messages
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About three days ago my iphone5 stopped connecting to my home wifi. I've tried everything in the trouble shooting guides and everything in all the support comments here.Ive reset network, reset all phone settings, turned wifi on and off, forgotten network. Nothing works. Is there anything else it could be? The wifi is fine as all my other devices connect to it no probs. appreciate any help?
About three days ago my iphone5 stopped connecting to my home wifi. I've tried everything in the trouble shooting guides and everything in all the support comments here.Ive reset network, reset all phone settings, turned wifi on and off, forgotten network. Nothing works. Is there anything else it could be? The wifi is fine as all my other devices connect to it no probs. appreciate any help?
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Apple Trouble Shooting Guide TS3304
Apple has posted a new Trouble Shooting Guide addressing the WiFi problems that some iPad users have been having. See http://support.apple.com/kb/TS3304?viewlocale=en_US
There are work arounds in the TS, some of which have been suggested in these forums. There is promise of a S/W update to address these problems.When connecting to a "hotspot" be it public or inside a business, you have only 2 options provided by this TS. Either renew IP or turn off "auto" screen brightness. Flimsy at best.
I predict with the next software update those like me who have yet to connect to wifi at a hotel, coffee shop or fast food joint will continue to be wifi-less. Meaning I think it's a hardware problem. The good news is you can spin the referb roulette wheel by trading in your factory fresh model for one that's been assembled, disassembled and reassembled.
Hope I'm wrong because I would like to use this device away from home and I don't want a referb. Went through several of those dogs with the iPhone. My advice, wait until the update or at least 3 months to get the dogs out of the system. Jaded.
Message was edited by: jbhmacpro -
Trouble shooting guide! Read this first!!!! rev 13-1-2004
(Revision 13-1-2004)
Hi there,
Follow everything on the list, even if it doesn't look like it would solve your problem, most problems are created somewhere else!
To give some examples:
CPU won't run FSB133....mostly powersupply or CPU-cooler.
Videocard won't load drivers....mostly powersupply.
Sound won't work.....mostly metal-standoff's.
Windows won't install, file read error.....mostly CPU-cooler, Bad-ram or powersupply.
That is why you need to go over the entire list and check all!
Before you start doing anything, remove the power and make sure that you have touched the metal case of your system. If you don't you could damage your system due to static discharge!
Thanks to Arioch and Dragon60 for comments on this.
There are several reasons why this happens.....to name the most commen:
CPU speeds
You have a Duron, that CPU is 100FSB!
You have a Athlon(XP) and it's showing the wrong speed, set the CPU-FSB to 133....
Or 166 when it's a FSB333 CPU....or 200 when it's a FSB400 CPU....
Some boards have a jumper to set it, other do it in the BIOS.
Check your manual for this.
Speeds must be:
Duron upto 1300MHz = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Duron from 1400MHz = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon B type = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Athlon C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - D type = 166MHz (=333DDR)
Athlon XP - E type = 200MHz (=400DDR)
Use this link to see if your motherboard actually supports your CPU.
The TBred CPU's (0.13) start from XP-1700 and up, but not all boards support this CPU and they either show on the D-LED all red or don't start at all!!
The K7T266pro2 is an exception, it can be made to support the TBred CPU's, on this link you find all the info on how to make it work.
Many reports have told us that FSB333 CPU's work on KT3-Ultra boards work just fine, but it's unsupported by MSI, we don't know why....
As for mulipliers with AMD CPU's, just set them Automatic, as they are hardcoded on the CPU themselves and will allway's be correctly, even if if you think the BIOS doesn't know it.
How to recognise the CPU:
If you look on the dice, there are letters after the speed.
The last letter will tell you the FSB of the CPU.
B=100MHz (=200DDR)
C=133MHz (=266DDR)
D=166MHz (=333DDR)
E=200MHz (=400DDR)
To recognise a CPU quickly, checkout this link.
Thanks Mellops.
The MHz setting must match your setting in the BIOS for FSB value, as it translates to the correct FSB setting for the CPU.
The best way to identify a processor is by using the OPN (Ordering Part Number) which can be found on the processor (E.g. AXDA 2700 D K V 3 D).
Detailed information on the code can be found in this AMD document. (Thanks Hans)
CPU Cooling
CPU cooler not made for your CPU, check if it can handle your CPU....
CPU cooler mounted wrong!, take it off and check it as it will fit 2 way's, but only 1 is the right one, examine very carefull!
The cooler has a lower part that needs to go over the bump (higher part) of the socket, if it's not over there it won't cool the entire dice and WILL give you trouble.
Also check if it's making contact with the entire dice of the CPU...
Make sure you regrease it again, the same grease/paste can't be used twice!
YOU MAY NEVER USE A THERMALPAD OR GREASE AGAIN! APPLY NEW EVERY TIME YOU TAKE THE COOLER OFF!!
top 2 show how not to do it
Used too much silver-grease! It will shorten the bridges on the CPU, clean it and use white-paste.
(Silver-paste is not recommended in any case!)
The latest AMD XP CPU's (XP-2200 and above) require a copperbased heatsink because the dice is smaller and generates far more heat per square cm then the "old" CPU's do.
How to check the cooler before taking it off.
There is a simple way to check the cooler without taking it off.
You do this by first checking your idle temp with PCAlert, it should be below 50-55C.
Then you download a client from www.distributed.net, let this client run for about 10 minutes while monitoring the temps, after about 1 minute or so it should stabilize and your temp should have gone up about 10-15C (max).
If it still goes up or the system crashes, there is a big chance you mounted the CPU-cooler wrong.
When you can't run this check, try with FSB100, if the system does run the check then, it could be well that the cooler is mounted wrong or your powersupply doesn't have enough power.
***** YOU CAN'T CHECK THE CPU COOLER ON TEMPS OR FAN RUNNING, IT MUST BE TAKEN OFF THE CPU!!! *****
Cleaning the CPU and Cooler - thanks to Dragon60 for his addition.
An additional comments about this is what you clean the CPU with in this situation. The best thing to use is isopropyl alcohol. If this is not available then metholated spirits would do.
Make sure you allow the CPU to dry properly before you put it back in. This also means DO NOT try and clean it whilst it is still in the socket as some of the cleaning fluid, grease and dirt may get underneath and short some pins.
Last but not least. DO NOT use acetone to clean anything inside your PC. (or outside for that matter) It MAY not do any damage BUT it may disolve some parts.
Thanks Dragon60.
If you don't understand what we are talking about on this cooler matter, then read this link: AMD CPU & Cooling guide
Powersupplies
Powersupply too little, most commen cheap 300W CPU's can't handle an XP-1700 or above, try a better one to be sure.
Make sure your powersupply has about 185W combined on the 3.3+5V and that the 3.3V has 20A or above.
That should be enough for most systems.
On the latest boards the 12V has become very important too, expecialy with TBred CPU's.
Make sure yours can give 18A or more on the 12V line too.
I have found that a lot of cheap 350W will fail with modern boards and TBred CPU's.
Allway's make sure you have a decend PSU, it never fails to spent a bit more on that part!
Borrow a bigger one from a friend if you are not sure....
More info about powersupplies: Click here.
And the second you must read: Click here.
Powersupplies with these type of numbers on them or higher should be fine:
3.3V - 28A or better
5V - 30A or better
12V - 18A or better
Watch out!! Cheap PSU's like Q-Tec come nowhere near these figures!!
Do NOT trust the 300W or 400W rating on them!!!
Q-Tec is about the worst of them all!!
Metalclips
Stand-off's left between the board and the case, take the board out and check for too many of those metal-clips, they can shorten circuits and cause al sorts of problems (most of the time audio problems)
RAM
Ram problems, don't try to run with PC100 (SDram boards) when you have a 133FSB CPU, get PC133 ram of decend quality.
In any case, don't use cheap quality ram (Crucial seems decend, but give's a lot of problems, I consider these cheap quality too :P ), replace the ram with another brand to see if it fixes it....
DDR ram speeds:
Duron upto 1300/Athlon-B =100FSB=PC-1600=DDR200
Duron from 1400 =133FSB=PC-2100=DDR266
Athlon-C/XP upto 2600 =133FSB=PC-2100=DDR266
Athlon XP D-type and above =166FSB=PC-2700=DDR333
Athlon XP E-type and above =200FSB=PC-3200=DDR400
Higher DDR speeds are only a must if you try to overclock, they have no speed gain if run at the correct speed. You may use faster ram on a slower system, the speeds given are what is needed minimum.
Perform RAM test tools, ie http://www.memtest.org if you suspect RAM is faulty, such as BSOD or data corruption. [added by Maesus]
Try your system allway's with 1 stick of ram, adding more sticks can give all the trouble too.
Some sticks just won't work in pair and a lot fail when you put 3 or more in the system.
When you want to use 3 sticks, make very sure you use the MSI tested ones, they are your best chance that they work without problems.
If still nothing, try to seat the ram in another slot, sometimes they work better in another slot.
Thanks boost
Or rise the Ram voltage a little, be carefull doing this!
Sometimes this works when you have a lot of ram in there.
BIOS
BIOS settings not right, clear the CMos and start with the default settings, if it works, try setting ONLY the FSB to 133 if needed, nothing more.....
And go further from there......
Clearing CMos
When you clear the CMos, make sure that all power is cut from the system.
This is done by takeing the wall-plug out or use the switch on the powersupply to turn it off.
On most boards, as far as I know all MSI boards, you must set the JBat1 to position 2-3 (clear position) for about 10 seconds, then set it back to 1-2 (keep data position)
After this your CMos should be cleared and you can turn the system back on.
In some rare cases it's needed to take the battery out too for a minute or so.
It can happen that the system will prompt you to set the BIOS again, go into the BIOS and set everything you need, then save the settings.
Thanks fguevara.
Harddisks
Harddisk is giving problems, most of the time with WD drive's, they are jumpered somewhat strange compared to others:
No jumper = Stand-Alone no other drive attached to the cable.
Jumper master = if you have a slave drive attached
Jumper slave = when it's slave to another drive
Harddisk is doing weird things:
Make sure you have connected the blue connector to the board, and don't let the other end of the cable unused, make sure there is a device connected to it.
The middle connector can be left into the air without problems if not needed.
IBM harddisks seem to fail a lot, try Drive-Fitness-Test on it, see if it has problems.
Click here for DFT
Other brand drives can have problems too, make sure they are ok, as harddisk failure can cause all sorts of problems.
Allway's be sure your harddisk is in tip-top shape, if not, replace it and try another to verify.
For more information read this: Click here.
To know what harddisks your motherboard support, use this link.
To enable harddisk over 137GB in Win2000 edit this registry key:
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Atapi\Parameters]
"EnableBigLba"=dword:00000001
The KT4 raid boards only support 1 harddisk on IDE3, the rest must be SATA drive's!!
Harddisk/power led not functioning - thanks to Tweetyoost
If your HD led or power led not work try to switch(wrong + or - side) the connectors on the motherboard.
leds will work only when + or - is correct
Thanks Tweetyoost.
Floppy drive's
If your floppy drive doesn't work or the led stay's on all the time.
Make sure the floppy is set correctly in the BIOS, as the BIOS doesn't autodetect a floppy drive.
Check the cable, make sure the twist in the cable is at the floppy-drive side.
If the light stay's on, flip the connector at the floppy-drive arround.
Sometimes it happens that even after all this, they still don't work, try with another drive from another brand.
Not able to enter the BIOS or lockup
When you try to enter the BIOS it won't go in there or
lockup, but your system is running fine.
This symtom can happen when your CPU-Cooler is giving spikes on the coolerwire.
Try with another brand of cooler to test if it solves it.
Keyboard and optical mouse lights stay on after power off[/U]
Some motherboards have a jumper called JKBV1, this jumper is located (mostly) near the keyboard connector, put it in the other position.
If your board doesn't have the jumper, try to find the following BIOS settings and turn them off:
resume on KBC
resume on PS/2
resume by alarm
USB ports not working[/U]
Check in the BIOS if the ports are enabled.
USB2.0 ports are supported in Win2000+SP3 and XP+SP1, just let the OS reinstall the ports and they should work.
Thanks Stygge
Replacing parts and the system won't boot after
It's never a good idea to replace stuff like CPU and ram without taking the board out of the case.
But if you still like to do so, please support the board, because if you don't you might bent the board a little and cause other components to make bad contact.
Allways support the board when you replace stuff, no matter what!
Also make sure your system can take the replacement, it could happen for example that your powersupply can't handle your changed videocard from GF2MX to GF4Ti4600.
Test all the parts in another system
Make sure that the new part is in good working order in the first place (in particular: videocard, CPU, memory): try it in another system, or have it demonstrated by the one you bought it from if possible.
Testing might also give you a clue on what is actually wrong in your own system.
Thanks HansH.
Checking the powersupply
Don't do this if you don't know what you are doing!
Disconnect the powersupply.
Orientate the 20pin Powerconnector with the clip up.
Locate pin 4 and pin 8 top row, mostly green and black wire.
Use a wire to short them (or better a 12V test lamp).
Now connect the power and the fan inside the powersupply should start spinning.
If it doesn't your powersupply maybe dead.
Thanks HansH.
KT4 users
Please read the Un-Official KT4 guide if you have CRC errors or strange crashes.
These can be BIOS problems.
In any case !!!Only flash if the system is stable!!!
Set default-settings and FSB100 to make it stable first!!!
Motherboards making a Siren-sound
If your board is making the sound of a firetruck, BEEP-BOOP-BEEP-BOOP...
Check the folowing:
1. CPU too hot
2. chassis intrusion was enabled in the BIOS
3. PSU is below min/max allowable value
Stutter in audio
Remove your antivirus software.
We have heard a few cases where the stuttering was created by badly behaving antivirus software.
Disable cpu halt command if it's in the BIOS (Thanks Pascal16)
Windows
Windows2000/XP won't run stable, try to disable APIC and install again....
Not all drivers/devices like the APIC.
Windows2000/XP won't install USB2.0, install the latest servicepak (SP3 Win2000 or SP1 WinXP).
Let Windows rediscover the USB ports, they should work now.
If you have driver or other problems and don't know what to do anymore but Windows does function without crashing, read this: Click here.
Audio [added by Maesus, 20/2/2003]
Can't stream AC3 via SPDIF to external DD decoder? try this ac3filter [info provided by Manfred ]
Lan not working 100MBit
You could try this patch, seems to work on some boards.
The download-link is at the bottom of this post.
I think I have about covered all most commen problems....
Check those first before you ask us, as it's not fun to type the same over and over again.... :(
Another good link for trouble shooting is here: Link
If you have more issues that can solve problems, please write your thing below......
I will insert your comments in this guide, with credits, offcourse 8)
!!I will delete any attempt for discussion or problem report below this message.....!!
Please report back, in another thread, if your problem was solved and how you did it, this will help others a great deal.
It's only ment to help people as a guide to where the problem can be, start a new thread if this guide didn't solve your problem and you need more help!
This thread is only for the experts to guide you into a solution :]Dude thank-you for your wonder detailed knowldge, I have descovered that lets say xp 1700 in a ultra 2 can only handle at the most 143fsb mult at 12.
Given the settings" irq's are a major",part of directing traffic and power? example:
Sound blaster Live , uses two irq's most common at"Auto" is, irq 10, or 5, and Sound blaster 16 emulation usually takes irq 5,. I have found that the sound card in slot3 works great , but to do this I had to change the Bio's and assign slot 3 irq 7 . and make sure printer port has share irq enabled
Problems that accure with bad traffic are like this. Start a dedicated server. minimize than start your game?":censored: no sound what could be wrong"? Shoot another problem Connection problem?. The computer nerd is getting trouble over the ordeal. ANSWER! IRQ can fix the problem, Study the irq and make changes as you go. "what would it be like with no stop signs,,,that is the same as a irq. with the same knowldge this topic brings IRQ need to be clearly understood.
I can honestly say my system is error free and running like a dream.
xp 2500 barton 333
creative sound 5.1gamers.
512 mb kingston ram 400 mhz
boadband either onboard.
MSI 5700 128 mb ddr
Setting are:
163 fsb
mult of 11
ddr 333
video memory clock down to 450mhz
3d clock to 390mhz
The delta is a smooth running board also I want to mention to the person with crackling sounds, change the irq like I did, that fix the problem and the power is totaly too good to be true. -
Why does ibooks crash everytime there is an update? I am so sick to death of having to stuff around and do all the trouble shooting rubbish to try and get ibooks working again, everytime there is an up date. I have wiped restored re synced changed usb leads turned my computer off unplugged and replugged every bloody thing about a dozen times and still after a week, instead of reading my books I have a very expensive paperweight. What is the problem and why does this keep happening with every new update. I am so frustrated and annoyed that I can't just read my book, it is why I bought the **** thing. Anybody got any other ideas before I go insane?
Dude thank-you for your wonder detailed knowldge, I have descovered that lets say xp 1700 in a ultra 2 can only handle at the most 143fsb mult at 12.
Given the settings" irq's are a major",part of directing traffic and power? example:
Sound blaster Live , uses two irq's most common at"Auto" is, irq 10, or 5, and Sound blaster 16 emulation usually takes irq 5,. I have found that the sound card in slot3 works great , but to do this I had to change the Bio's and assign slot 3 irq 7 . and make sure printer port has share irq enabled
Problems that accure with bad traffic are like this. Start a dedicated server. minimize than start your game?":censored: no sound what could be wrong"? Shoot another problem Connection problem?. The computer nerd is getting trouble over the ordeal. ANSWER! IRQ can fix the problem, Study the irq and make changes as you go. "what would it be like with no stop signs,,,that is the same as a irq. with the same knowldge this topic brings IRQ need to be clearly understood.
I can honestly say my system is error free and running like a dream.
xp 2500 barton 333
creative sound 5.1gamers.
512 mb kingston ram 400 mhz
boadband either onboard.
MSI 5700 128 mb ddr
Setting are:
163 fsb
mult of 11
ddr 333
video memory clock down to 450mhz
3d clock to 390mhz
The delta is a smooth running board also I want to mention to the person with crackling sounds, change the irq like I did, that fix the problem and the power is totaly too good to be true. -
problems w/ this board
Name RADEON 9500 PRO / 9700
Name RADEON 9500 PRO / 9700
PNP Device ID PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_4E45&SUBSYS_00021002&REV_00\4&1AD7642&0&0058
Adapter Type RADEON 9500 PRO AGP (0x4E45), ATI Technologies Inc. compatible
Adapter Description RADEON 9500 PRO / 9700
Adapter RAM 128.00 MB (134,217,728 bytes)
Installed Drivers ati2dvag.dll
Driver Version 6.14.10.6476
INF File oem10.inf (ati2mtag_R300 section)
Color Planes 1
Color Table Entries 4294967296
Resolution 1280 x 1024 x 75 hertz
Bits/Pixel 32
Memory Address 0xD0000000-0xDFFFFFFF
I/O Port 0x0000A000-0x0000AFFF
Memory Address 0xE1010000-0xE101FFFF
IRQ Channel IRQ 16
I/O Port 0x000003B0-0x000003BB
I/O Port 0x000003C0-0x000003DF
Memory Address 0xA0000-0xBFFFF
Driver c:\windows\system32\drivers\ati2mtag.sys (6.14.10.6476, 769.00 KB (787,456 bytes), 8/25/2004 1:28 PM)
Name RADEON 9500 PRO / 9700 - Secondary
PNP Device ID PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_4E65&SUBSYS_00031002&REV_00\4&1AD7642&0&0158
Adapter Type RADEON 9500 PRO AGP (0x4E45), ATI Technologies Inc. compatible
Adapter Description RADEON 9500 PRO / 9700 - Secondary
Adapter RAM 128.00 MB (134,217,728 bytes)
Installed Drivers ati2dvag.dll
Driver Version 6.14.10.6476
INF File oem10.inf (ati2mtag_R300 section)
Color Planes Not Available
Color Table Entries Not Available
Resolution Not Available
Bits/Pixel Not Available
Memory Address 0xD8000000-0xDFFFFFFF
Memory Address 0xE1FF0000-0xE1FFFFFF
Driver c:\windows\system32\drivers\ati2mtag.sys (6.14.10.6476, 769.00 KB (787,456 bytes), 8/25/2004 1:28 PM)
Processor x86 Family 15 Model 12 Stepping 0 AuthenticAMD ~2009 Mhz
512 400mhz ddr
I get a video crash when I play Dark Age of Camelot, and sometimes in windows.
I have a enermax 480w ps
JessHi
There was a thread recently about SP2 and vid cards, in essence if SP2 was an update, uninstall vid card and let it reinstall and use SP2 driver. If a slipstreamed install, it would be OK with Radeon drivers, maybe worth reading, its fairly recent within lat week or so.
cheers
jocko -
[nForce]: Trouble Shooting Guide V1.6a
Hello.
Here is a guide to help solve some problems with K7N2 motherboards.
Problems arise in systems because some components do not work as they should.
Typical issues found with these boards consist of Non-nForce2 Approved RAM & a weak power supply. Other issues could be a cpu won't run at its rated fsb speed or an incorrectly mounted cpu cooler.
Sound problems - too many or incorrectly placed metal standoffs, bad drivers.
Windows won't install or you get a file read error - Incorrectly mounted CPU heat sink, RAM or power supply (PSU).
I've listed some instructions below to help those users that need a basic comprehensive guide to troubleshoot their systems with. Please read through the entire guide prior to posting for help on the forum.
Before you start doing anything, remove the power cord and make sure that you have touched the metal case of your system. This is called "Grounding yourself" and if you don't you could damage your system due to static discharge!
Thanks to Arioch and Dragon60 for comments on this.
1) BIOS/Startup POST reports wrong cpu or frequency
Check if jumper j10 and j11 are set to safemode and also check fsb settings in bios. If the jumpers are set to safe mode set them to normal, this is found in your motherboard manual. The jumpers vary with motherboards and manufacturers.
SafeMode sets cpu and memory to 100mhz.
Both memory and cpu are double pumped.
Data is clocked on the rise and fall of each clock cycle.
That means that 100mhz real frequency is 200mhz virtual frequency.
This is NOT without error and so your results may vary a little.
Non-Delta supports all cpu up to fsb 333
Delta supports all Socket A cpu
Duron upto 1300MHz = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Duron from 1400MHz = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon B type = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Athlon C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - D type = 166MHz (=333DDR)
Athlon XP - E type = 200MHz (=400DDR)
Support for new Duron 1400, 1600, 1800 with 266Mhz FSB (applebred)
The following boards support them:
(If a board is not on the list then it's not supported!)
-K7N2 6570 V1.0
-K7N2G-L 6570 V1.0
-K7N2G-ILSR 6570 V1.0
-K7N2 Delta 6570 V1.0
-K7N2GM-L 6777 V1.0
Thanks to DeathStalker
The best way to identify a processor is by using the OPN (Ordering Part Number) which can be found on the processor (E.g. AXDA 2700 D K V 3 D).
How to check which cpu you have:
http://www.amd.com/us-en/assets/content_type/DownloadableAssets/Electrical_Specification_Rev04_ENG.pdf
2) Over temp CPU
Is the Heat Sink and Fan rated for the CPU?
The CPU Heat Sink could be mounted wrong! Carefully remove it and check it. It can and will fit 2 ways but ther is only 1 right way. Examine the installation very carefully!
The Heat Sink has a recessed edge that has to be installed over the ridge (higher part or bump) of the socket. If installed backwards then it won't cool the entire area of the processor 'die' and could cause it to burn, thus killing it, or give you trouble as outlined in this guide.
Make sure that you use a QUALITY Thermal Compound/Paste and DO NOT reuse old compound! Note that some Heat Sinks are shipped with Thermal Pads, these are ok for some but will not give you the best heat transfer that a quality paste will.
Below are three images, the first two are incorrect, the last is correct.
Again..It is important to match the notch or step in the heatsink to the socket or it will not seat properly, causing immediate shutdowns, and ultimately damage your CPU.
If you use too much Silver based Thermal Compund you risk shorting the bridges on the CPU. This could cause damage to the CPU itself so use sparingly! If you feel that you've used too much then clean the die and substrate (the brown or green fiberglass material that the die is mounted on) and re-apply. Orange Clean TM is excellent for cleaning any type of thermal compound from a processor. Isopropyl Alchohol is ok but may leave traces of silver on the substrate. Using a 10X eye loupe will ensure that no traces of silver are shorting any bridges together after cleaning. DO NOT clean your processor while it rests in its socket on the motherboard. You run the risk of cleaner mixed with compound and dirt settling into your socket and that will cause further problems.
Last but not least. DO NOT use acetone to clean anything inside your PC. (or outside for that matter) It MAY not do any damage BUT it may dissolve some parts. Especially the coating on capacitors and resistors.
Silverbased compounds are not recommended by most manufacturers and if any traces are detected by them from an RMA'd processor they will usually void the warranty!
The latest AMD XP CPU's (XP-2000 and above) require a copperbased heatsink because their die are smaller and generate far more heat per square centimeter than the "old" CPU's did.
a)How to check the Heat Sink before taking it off:
There is a simple way to check the Heat Sink without taking it off. You do this by first checking your idle temp with SpeedFan or MBM, it should be below 50-55C.
Download Prime95 and run torture test for about 10 minutes while monitoring the temps, after about 1 minute or so it should stabilize and your temp should have gone up about 10-15C (max).
If it still goes up or the system crashes, there is a chance that you've mounted the heat sink incorrectly.
If your system can't run this check, (i.e. freezes or crashes) try setting your FSB to 100. Try to run the test again. If it still fails to run it could well be that the heat sink is mounted wrong or your power supply doesn't have enough power.
You cant check if the heatsink only has partial contact with the CPU die by looking on temperature monitor programs. The heatsink needs to be removed to see that.
If, after reading the guide regarding CPU Heat Sinks, you don't understand what we are talking about, then refer this link: AMD CPU & Cooling guide
http://www.amd.com/us-en/assets/content_type/white_papers_and_tech_docs/23986.pdf
3) Power Supplies
Most common cheap 300-350W power supply units (PSU for short) can't handle an XP-1700 or above, try a better one to be sure.
Make sure your PSU has 200W combined on the +3.3v & +5V rails and that the +3.3V rail is rated for 20A (A = Amps or Amperage) or above. This should be enough for most systems.
On the latest boards the +12V rail has become very important too, expecially with AMD ThunderBird & above CPU's. Make sure your PSU can supply 16A or more.
Alway's make sure you have a decent PSU, it never fails to spend a bit more on that part!
Borrow a bigger one from a friend if you are not sure.
Here's a good post on choosing the right power supply:
Choosing The Right Power Supply
This is the bare minimum that you should see on a PSU running an AMD processor. Intel is a bit more forgiving in some cases but with the amount of devices we use these days this minimum is a good guidline:
+3.3V - 28A or better
+5V - 35A or better
+12V - 16A or better
Watch out!! Cheap PSU's like Q-Tec come nowhere near these figures!! Do NOT trust the 300W or 400W rating on them!!! Q-Tec is about the worst of them all!!
4) Metal Stand-offs
Sometimes we are all a bit careless when it comes to changing a motherboard and forget to look at the layout of the stand-offs (those little silver or brass pieces that the screws screw into to hold the motherboard in the case) that are left from the old motherboard. Some motherboards use more than others thus some overlook the 'extra' one and mount that new board and never know the difference. Until they try to start their new baby up!
Remove the board and check for to see if you have too many of them by counting the holes or screws that you took out and then count the number of stand-offs you have in the case. Remove any uneeded stand-offs then remount your motherboard. Having 'extra's' can short out circuitry and cause all sorts of problems most of which are audio related.
Here are what typical stand-offs look like:
5) Sound
Two types of audio chipsets are used in these boards:
a) The -ILSR version uses Soundstorm and has drivers supplied from MSI or nVidia.
b) The -L version uses RealTek sound and has drivers supplied by MSI and Realtek.
There have been a lot of issues regarding the -L board and its drivers supplied by MSI. Realtek drivers seem to repair these issues and can be found here:
www.realtek.com.tw
Follow the ALC650 link.
6) RAM
Most of the issues involving these boards have been memory related. For various reasons cheaper generic memory doesn't run with nForce2 chipsets well and you should get nForce2 Approved RAM. Here is a link to nVidia's compatibility list as well as a list of what has worked for some:
Good Memory Choices for ALL K7N2 nF2 released boards
It's not a good idea to try to run DDR266 RAM when you have a 333FSB CPU, get DDR333 ram of decent quality.
If you think that you're having RAM issues then replace the ram with another brand to see if it fixes it or borrow some from a friend to check. Make sure it isn't cheap quality RAM or what you borrow isn't cheap quality. You can run to the local CompUSA (if you live in the USA that is) and buy some better quality RAM and return it later if you find that it isn't the problem.
DDR ram speeds:
Duron up to 1300/Athlon-B = 100FSB = PC-1600 = DDR200
Duron from 1400 = 133FSB = PC-2100 = DDR266
Athlon-C/XP up to 2600 = 133FSB = PC-2100 = DDR266
Athlon XP D-type and above = 166FSB = PC-2700 = DDR333
Athlon XP E-type and above = 200FSB = PC-3200 = DDR400
Set Fsb / Dram Ratio to 1:1 that means that the memory is working at the same speed as the fsb does.
Higher DDR speeds are only a must if you try to overclock. You can use faster RAM on a slower system and the motherboard bus will switch down in speed accordingly. The speeds given above are what should be used as a minimum, otherwise you're creating a serious bottleneck of data from the RAM.
Use a decent RAM testing utility such as Memtest86 if you suspect RAM is faulty. Typical failures of RAM include but are not limited to:
a) BSOD (Blue Screen of Death!)
b) Data Corruption
c) Machine won't cold boot
Try your system always with 1 RAM module at a time to see if you have a bad module. Swap modules if you have more than 1 to see if one or the other is bad. When upgrading remeber that adding more modules can give you trouble too. Especially if you mix manufacturers. Some sticks just won't work in pairs and some fail when you put 3 or more in the system. When you want to use 3 sticks, make very sure you use the nVidia tested and approved modules, they are your best chance that they will work without problems.
If still nothing try to seat the ram in another slot, sometimes they work better in another slot.
Thanks boost
Or raise the RAM voltage a little but be careful doing this! Sometimes this works when you have a lot of ram in the system.
7) BIOS
Sometimes when we play with our BIOS settings and set something wrong in it or set something incompatible with our hardware this causes the motherboard to not boot up. Sometimes they come from the factory that way as well. If so then clear the CMOS and start with the default settings. If it works try setting ONLY A FEW SETTINGS at a time and nothing more! If it works then go further from there a couple of settings at a time.
There are issues when changing VCORE and it gets stuck.
There are 3 ways to work around this issue.
1. Updating to the latest bios seems to fix it most of the time.
2. Clear CMOS, change VCORE in the BIOS, save changes then reboot and it should be changed.
3. Change VCORE in BIOS, save changes, turn off pc then disconnect PSU from wall outlet by either disconnecting the power cord or use the switch on the backside of the psu if there is one. Reconnect the power cord or turn the switch on again. Boot up the system, go into the BIOS and check under pc health to see if it has changed.
For RAID boards only!!
If you recieve a message at boot saying:
No Hard disk/drive present...BIOS will not be installed...
or something comparable, it means that there are no drives connected to the raid controllers and it's not installing the drivers needed to support the function of that particular device FROM BIOS ONLY! This is nothing to worry about and all of the other functions of your machine should work properly.
Modded bios to fix problems when using multiplier 10 and 10.5 and also to be able to use a higher FSB than with the MSI bios.
http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46052
8) Clearing the CMOS chip
Disconnect the system power cord and push the case power button to drain all remaining power in the psu for approximately 15 seconds
Then move jumper jbat1 and wait 10 seconds and move it back to the original position. You should ensure that the jumper has metal inside of it when removed, sometimes (rarely) they don't. This process resets or clears the CMOS chip and is shown in most motherboard manuals.Now connect the power cord and restart your system.
Some motherboards require that the battery must be removed for 20 minutes before putting the battery and jbat1 back for the CMOS chip to be cleared.
***Starting your K7N2 Delta2 at default settings***
By "labtech1"
As some of you will be aware there is no safe mode jumper J10 on the K7N2 Delta2 series of boards. This has been replaced by the "insert" key method as used by Abit and Epox. To start your board at its default settings following an unsuccessful overclocking attempt you need to do the following using a ps2 keyboard. Turn off your machine and disconnect from the mains or turn off the switch on the back of the power supply. Press the front panel power switch several times to discharge any charge remaining in the power supply capacitors. Reconnect the power by plugging into wall socket or turning on psu power switch. Press and hold down "insert" on the keyboard and press the case front panel power switch. If you are successful it should start the cpu and memory at 100Mhz FSB. If it does press "delete" to reenter the bios to change your settings to known safe settings. Good luck.
9) Harddisks
If your hard drive is giving you problems:
Western Digital (WD) drive's are jumpered somewhat strange compared to others:
No jumper = Stand-Alone drive with no other drive attached to the cable.
Jumper master = Use this setting on your main drive if you have a slave drive installed in your system.
Jumper slave = Use this setting if you have a second hard drive installed in your system.
Cable Select - the preferred jumper setting
If your Hard Drive is doing weird things:
Make sure you have connected the color-coded connectors to the color-coded connectors on the motherboard and connect the other END of the cable to the hard drive. The middle connector can be left unattached without problems if not needed.
Not all motherboards have color-coded connectors.
IBM harddisks seem to fail a lot, try Drive-Fitness-Test on it, see if it has problems.
Run drive fitness test (DFT)
Maxtor also has its own version of hard drive check for their drives and is available from their website.
Any brand of hard drive can have problems so check the manufacturer website to see if there is a testing utility to use to make sure they are ok. Hard drive failures can cause some of the strangest problems with computers and should be checked via the Event Viewer of your Operating System or using the mfg's utility. Sometimes the Event Viewer will give you clues that you have bad sectors leading you to a potential hard drive failure. You could also find IDE/SCSI controllers that are suspect by looking there as well. Win9x and ME DO NOT have Event Viewers.
Alway's be sure your harddisk is in tip-top shape! If you suspect that it's not, replace it to verify.
IDE devices and hard drive guide (Written by Assaf & Bas)
IDE devices and hard drive guide(Written by Assaf & Bas)
To enable a hard drive over 137GB in Win2000 edit this registry key:
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Atapi\Parameters]
"EnableBigLba"=dword:00000001
The K7N2G & Delta -ILSR boards support 2 IDE Devices on IDE 1 & 2, 1 IDE hard drive on IDE3 and 2 SATA drive's on the SATA Ports.
There is a modded bios that allows 2 drives on IDE3. USE THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! Here is a link to it:
http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27626&highlight=
Harddisk/power LED not functioning:
If your Hard Drive or Power LED doesn't work try turning the plug around on the motherboard connector. Some manufacturers don't mark or wire the LED cables properly and the LEDs will only work when + and - is correct.
Hard drive LEDs do not work with SATA drives but O&O Drive LED opens a little window and there you can see when a harddrive or cd is accessed. Works on both ide and sata drives.
10) Floppy Drives
If your floppy drive doesn't work or the LED stays on all of the time make sure the floppy is set correctly in the BIOS because the BIOS doesn't autodetect a floppy drive.
Check the cable making sure that the twist in the cable is at the floppy-drive side and flip the connector at the around. If it stays on after that or you still can't read a floppy disk try another drive or a different manufaturer type drive.
11) USB Ports
USB 2.0 ports are supported ONLY in Win2000 w/SP3 and XP w/SP1. Update your OS from Windows Update and let the OS install the ports after reboot and they should work.
If your USB ports aren't working:
Check in the BIOS if the ports are enabled. If you're using the front USB ports of your case check to see if all of the wires are connected properly.
There are 4 wires for each USB channel.
In some manufaturer's cases they are supplied with a wire called USBOC. Don't connect this as it can cause problems.
Also different mfg's mark the wires with different names so the basic nomenclature would be something like this:
+5v = +VCC
-D = -USB
+D = +USB
Note: Normally the cables are marked as +USB1 or -USB1, +USB2 or -USB2 and so on...please ensure that all of the 1's are together and all of the 2's are together.
12) Replacing parts and the system won't boot after
It's never a good idea to replace stuff like CPU and ram without taking the board out of the case. But if you do so please support the board because if you don't you might bend the board a little and cause trace breakage or component connections to the board to crack or break causing a bad contact. Always support the board when you replace components no matter what!
Also make sure your system is compatible with any replacement component. For example your PSU may not be able to handle a video card upgrade from a GeForce2 440MX to a GeForce4 Ti-4600 because the +12v rail is too low or the motherboard isn't rated to output the proper voltage to the AGP port.
If you have parts that work in another computer with a different chipset this DOES NOT mean they will work with the nforce2 chipset.
13) Graphics Card
If there is stability problem and/or can't use agp 8x then update to the latest bios and it should work. Also try to disable the 8x feature of the motherboard in the BIOS. If neither of these work then you may have a PSU that is under-powered and needs to be replaced. You could also have a faulty video card, AGP port on the motherboard among other things. If you have to disable the 8x feature in the BIOS then there is still a problem even if the card starts working. That may mean the motherboard is bad. Also use the latest drivers available from the respective manufacturer and don't forget to uninstall the old drivers first!! There is a sticky post in the VGA forum that details this process.
14) Checking the power supply
Don't do this if you don't know what you are doing!
a) Disconnect the power supply.
b) Orient the 20-pin power connector with the clip up.
c) Locate pin 4 and pin 8 top row, mostly green and black wire. (Usually the PSU manufacturer will have a drawing labeling the pins on their website)
d) Use a wire to short them (or better a 12V test lamp).
e) Now connect the power cord and the fan inside the power supply should start spinning. If it doesn't your power supply might be dead.
15) Windows
a) If you find that Windows2000/XP won't run stable:
Try to disable APIC and install again. Not all drivers/devices like the APIC.
b) Windows2000/XP won't install USB 2.0:
Install the latest service pack using Windows Update (SP3 Win2000 or SP1 WinXP). Windows should detect the USB ports on reboot and install the drivers for them. They should work now but if not you could have a faulty motherboard.
If you use a current or slipstreamed copy of Win2K or XP with the latest service pack they include these new drivers. This download will no longer be available on Windows Update.
USE THESE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!
Slipstreaming Win2K with Service Packs and Creating a Bootable CD:
http://old.bink.nu/bootcd/
Slipstreaming Windows XP Service Packs and Creating a Bootable CD
http://www.windows-help.net/WindowsXP/winxp-sp1-bootcd.html
16) Raid
Configure a raid array:
After you have connected 1 or 2 hard drives to your Raid IDE port(s) press CTRL + F during boot and create a raid array.
It is possible to have 2 raid arrays working at the same time.
To boot from a raid array set SCSI as the first boot device.
To install windows on a raid array you have to press F6 to load raid drivers during the initial install of windows. This will be repeated during Windows desktop installation of drivers because the initial drivers are only loaded to memory during this initial install allowing the Windows installation program to access the raid drives. A default driver is loaded at bootup so that the drives can be accessed until the real drivers are loaded from the MB disk.
Raid 0 sets up striping which gives more performance for applications. Raid 1 sets up mirroring which gives drive security by duplicating the primary drive to the secondary drive.
When using two different sized drives in a raid array, the larger drive is forced to only use the amount of disk space that the smaller drive provides.
nForce 2 raid FAQ
(Mostly by Wonkanoby)
The third IDE only works with harddrives not optical drives such as CD,DVD. It only supports one drive.
You must create an array first, weather you are using 2 drives or just one
or nothing will happen .
You must also have a 3.5 floppy with the appropriate drivers handy.
INSTALLATION
To install raid as a boot drive.
Control + F and make the array.
Set SCSI second to cdrom in boot order.
Boot to xp cd and hit F6 as it prompts you to do right at the beginning and then insert the floppy.
This will be repeated during Windows desktop installation of drivers because the initial drivers are only loaded to memory during this initial install allowing the Windows installation program to access the raid drives.
The rest of the format/install is all as normal.
Drivers for the raid can be found here.
http://us-download.msi.com.tw/support/dvr_exe/sata48N.exe
Promise PDC20376 Serial-ATA RAID Utility
http://us-download.msi.com.tw/support/dvr_exe/37653.exe
If you make a new floppy, unrar them.
Then copy every thing including the text files to the floppy.
(no text files, nothing happens)
MODDED BIOS
such as
http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27626
There are several offering full RAID.
They add ability to have 2x drives on ide 3.
I'm skeptical running raid 0 with both on the same ide myself.
Now these you must get the bios and the drivers.
The drivers are not the same as those for the RAID MSI includes.
The drivers are linked on that BIOS page I have provided.
RAID 0, sets up striping, which gives more performance for applications.
RAID 1, sets up mirroring which gives drive security by duplicating the primary drive to the secondary drive.
When using two different sized drives in a RAID array, the larger drive is forced to only use the amount of disk space that the smaller drive provides.
17) Good Links
J*A*G'S *Updated* nForce Cooling Guide (written by JAG)
Suggestions on posting and getting better answers (written by GlennVidia)
Good Memory Choices for K7N2G- IL and ILSR Board (written by Bonz)
ati problem ,post vga card model and bios (written by Wonkanoby)
Powersupplies(Written by Bas)
Moan Guide (Written by Wonkanoby)
A few good websites to have around!!
The Freeware Thread
NFORCE 2 OVERCLOCKING AND MODDING GUIDES
Use these guides, including the content of this entire guide, at your own risk!
This forum and it's members, including MSI, assume no liability whatsoever!
Part One
Part Two
I am not an expert on computers so I have most likely forgotten a lot of things. Please send me a private message or email me and I will add it if it's applicable. If you feel that something here is in error then please contact me via the above as well.
I also want to thank everyone that helped put this guide together.
All Star Lineup!
Arioch
DeathStalker
maesus
ClarkKent57
boost
Assaf
Bas
Tweetyoost
Stygge
HansH
GlennVidia
RoganJosh
Bonz
Wonkanoby
Dragon60
[T-A]_Super_10
labtech1Hello.
Here is a guide to help solve some problems with K7N2 motherboards.
Problems arise in systems because some components do not work as they should.
Typical issues found with these boards consist of Non-nForce2 Approved RAM & a weak power supply. Other issues could be a cpu won't run at its rated fsb speed or an incorrectly mounted cpu cooler.
Sound problems - too many or incorrectly placed metal standoffs, bad drivers.
Windows won't install or you get a file read error - Incorrectly mounted CPU heat sink, RAM or power supply (PSU).
I've listed some instructions below to help those users that need a basic comprehensive guide to troubleshoot their systems with. Please read through the entire guide prior to posting for help on the forum.
Before you start doing anything, remove the power cord and make sure that you have touched the metal case of your system. This is called "Grounding yourself" and if you don't you could damage your system due to static discharge!
Thanks to Arioch and Dragon60 for comments on this.
1) BIOS/Startup POST reports wrong cpu or frequency
Check if jumper j10 and j11 are set to safemode and also check fsb settings in bios. If the jumpers are set to safe mode set them to normal, this is found in your motherboard manual. The jumpers vary with motherboards and manufacturers.
SafeMode sets cpu and memory to 100mhz.
Both memory and cpu are double pumped.
Data is clocked on the rise and fall of each clock cycle.
That means that 100mhz real frequency is 200mhz virtual frequency.
This is NOT without error and so your results may vary a little.
Non-Delta supports all cpu up to fsb 333
Delta supports all Socket A cpu
Duron upto 1300MHz = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Duron from 1400MHz = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon B type = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Athlon C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - D type = 166MHz (=333DDR)
Athlon XP - E type = 200MHz (=400DDR)
Support for new Duron 1400, 1600, 1800 with 266Mhz FSB (applebred)
The following boards support them:
(If a board is not on the list then it's not supported!)
-K7N2 6570 V1.0
-K7N2G-L 6570 V1.0
-K7N2G-ILSR 6570 V1.0
-K7N2 Delta 6570 V1.0
-K7N2GM-L 6777 V1.0
Thanks to DeathStalker
The best way to identify a processor is by using the OPN (Ordering Part Number) which can be found on the processor (E.g. AXDA 2700 D K V 3 D).
How to check which cpu you have:
http://www.amd.com/us-en/assets/content_type/DownloadableAssets/Electrical_Specification_Rev04_ENG.pdf
2) Over temp CPU
Is the Heat Sink and Fan rated for the CPU?
The CPU Heat Sink could be mounted wrong! Carefully remove it and check it. It can and will fit 2 ways but ther is only 1 right way. Examine the installation very carefully!
The Heat Sink has a recessed edge that has to be installed over the ridge (higher part or bump) of the socket. If installed backwards then it won't cool the entire area of the processor 'die' and could cause it to burn, thus killing it, or give you trouble as outlined in this guide.
Make sure that you use a QUALITY Thermal Compound/Paste and DO NOT reuse old compound! Note that some Heat Sinks are shipped with Thermal Pads, these are ok for some but will not give you the best heat transfer that a quality paste will.
Below are three images, the first two are incorrect, the last is correct.
Again..It is important to match the notch or step in the heatsink to the socket or it will not seat properly, causing immediate shutdowns, and ultimately damage your CPU.
If you use too much Silver based Thermal Compund you risk shorting the bridges on the CPU. This could cause damage to the CPU itself so use sparingly! If you feel that you've used too much then clean the die and substrate (the brown or green fiberglass material that the die is mounted on) and re-apply. Orange Clean TM is excellent for cleaning any type of thermal compound from a processor. Isopropyl Alchohol is ok but may leave traces of silver on the substrate. Using a 10X eye loupe will ensure that no traces of silver are shorting any bridges together after cleaning. DO NOT clean your processor while it rests in its socket on the motherboard. You run the risk of cleaner mixed with compound and dirt settling into your socket and that will cause further problems.
Last but not least. DO NOT use acetone to clean anything inside your PC. (or outside for that matter) It MAY not do any damage BUT it may dissolve some parts. Especially the coating on capacitors and resistors.
Silverbased compounds are not recommended by most manufacturers and if any traces are detected by them from an RMA'd processor they will usually void the warranty!
The latest AMD XP CPU's (XP-2000 and above) require a copperbased heatsink because their die are smaller and generate far more heat per square centimeter than the "old" CPU's did.
a)How to check the Heat Sink before taking it off:
There is a simple way to check the Heat Sink without taking it off. You do this by first checking your idle temp with SpeedFan or MBM, it should be below 50-55C.
Download Prime95 and run torture test for about 10 minutes while monitoring the temps, after about 1 minute or so it should stabilize and your temp should have gone up about 10-15C (max).
If it still goes up or the system crashes, there is a chance that you've mounted the heat sink incorrectly.
If your system can't run this check, (i.e. freezes or crashes) try setting your FSB to 100. Try to run the test again. If it still fails to run it could well be that the heat sink is mounted wrong or your power supply doesn't have enough power.
You cant check if the heatsink only has partial contact with the CPU die by looking on temperature monitor programs. The heatsink needs to be removed to see that.
If, after reading the guide regarding CPU Heat Sinks, you don't understand what we are talking about, then refer this link: AMD CPU & Cooling guide
http://www.amd.com/us-en/assets/content_type/white_papers_and_tech_docs/23986.pdf
3) Power Supplies
Most common cheap 300-350W power supply units (PSU for short) can't handle an XP-1700 or above, try a better one to be sure.
Make sure your PSU has 200W combined on the +3.3v & +5V rails and that the +3.3V rail is rated for 20A (A = Amps or Amperage) or above. This should be enough for most systems.
On the latest boards the +12V rail has become very important too, expecially with AMD ThunderBird & above CPU's. Make sure your PSU can supply 16A or more.
Alway's make sure you have a decent PSU, it never fails to spend a bit more on that part!
Borrow a bigger one from a friend if you are not sure.
Here's a good post on choosing the right power supply:
Choosing The Right Power Supply
This is the bare minimum that you should see on a PSU running an AMD processor. Intel is a bit more forgiving in some cases but with the amount of devices we use these days this minimum is a good guidline:
+3.3V - 28A or better
+5V - 35A or better
+12V - 16A or better
Watch out!! Cheap PSU's like Q-Tec come nowhere near these figures!! Do NOT trust the 300W or 400W rating on them!!! Q-Tec is about the worst of them all!!
4) Metal Stand-offs
Sometimes we are all a bit careless when it comes to changing a motherboard and forget to look at the layout of the stand-offs (those little silver or brass pieces that the screws screw into to hold the motherboard in the case) that are left from the old motherboard. Some motherboards use more than others thus some overlook the 'extra' one and mount that new board and never know the difference. Until they try to start their new baby up!
Remove the board and check for to see if you have too many of them by counting the holes or screws that you took out and then count the number of stand-offs you have in the case. Remove any uneeded stand-offs then remount your motherboard. Having 'extra's' can short out circuitry and cause all sorts of problems most of which are audio related.
Here are what typical stand-offs look like:
5) Sound
Two types of audio chipsets are used in these boards:
a) The -ILSR version uses Soundstorm and has drivers supplied from MSI or nVidia.
b) The -L version uses RealTek sound and has drivers supplied by MSI and Realtek.
There have been a lot of issues regarding the -L board and its drivers supplied by MSI. Realtek drivers seem to repair these issues and can be found here:
www.realtek.com.tw
Follow the ALC650 link.
6) RAM
Most of the issues involving these boards have been memory related. For various reasons cheaper generic memory doesn't run with nForce2 chipsets well and you should get nForce2 Approved RAM. Here is a link to nVidia's compatibility list as well as a list of what has worked for some:
Good Memory Choices for ALL K7N2 nF2 released boards
It's not a good idea to try to run DDR266 RAM when you have a 333FSB CPU, get DDR333 ram of decent quality.
If you think that you're having RAM issues then replace the ram with another brand to see if it fixes it or borrow some from a friend to check. Make sure it isn't cheap quality RAM or what you borrow isn't cheap quality. You can run to the local CompUSA (if you live in the USA that is) and buy some better quality RAM and return it later if you find that it isn't the problem.
DDR ram speeds:
Duron up to 1300/Athlon-B = 100FSB = PC-1600 = DDR200
Duron from 1400 = 133FSB = PC-2100 = DDR266
Athlon-C/XP up to 2600 = 133FSB = PC-2100 = DDR266
Athlon XP D-type and above = 166FSB = PC-2700 = DDR333
Athlon XP E-type and above = 200FSB = PC-3200 = DDR400
Set Fsb / Dram Ratio to 1:1 that means that the memory is working at the same speed as the fsb does.
Higher DDR speeds are only a must if you try to overclock. You can use faster RAM on a slower system and the motherboard bus will switch down in speed accordingly. The speeds given above are what should be used as a minimum, otherwise you're creating a serious bottleneck of data from the RAM.
Use a decent RAM testing utility such as Memtest86 if you suspect RAM is faulty. Typical failures of RAM include but are not limited to:
a) BSOD (Blue Screen of Death!)
b) Data Corruption
c) Machine won't cold boot
Try your system always with 1 RAM module at a time to see if you have a bad module. Swap modules if you have more than 1 to see if one or the other is bad. When upgrading remeber that adding more modules can give you trouble too. Especially if you mix manufacturers. Some sticks just won't work in pairs and some fail when you put 3 or more in the system. When you want to use 3 sticks, make very sure you use the nVidia tested and approved modules, they are your best chance that they will work without problems.
If still nothing try to seat the ram in another slot, sometimes they work better in another slot.
Thanks boost
Or raise the RAM voltage a little but be careful doing this! Sometimes this works when you have a lot of ram in the system.
7) BIOS
Sometimes when we play with our BIOS settings and set something wrong in it or set something incompatible with our hardware this causes the motherboard to not boot up. Sometimes they come from the factory that way as well. If so then clear the CMOS and start with the default settings. If it works try setting ONLY A FEW SETTINGS at a time and nothing more! If it works then go further from there a couple of settings at a time.
There are issues when changing VCORE and it gets stuck.
There are 3 ways to work around this issue.
1. Updating to the latest bios seems to fix it most of the time.
2. Clear CMOS, change VCORE in the BIOS, save changes then reboot and it should be changed.
3. Change VCORE in BIOS, save changes, turn off pc then disconnect PSU from wall outlet by either disconnecting the power cord or use the switch on the backside of the psu if there is one. Reconnect the power cord or turn the switch on again. Boot up the system, go into the BIOS and check under pc health to see if it has changed.
For RAID boards only!!
If you recieve a message at boot saying:
No Hard disk/drive present...BIOS will not be installed...
or something comparable, it means that there are no drives connected to the raid controllers and it's not installing the drivers needed to support the function of that particular device FROM BIOS ONLY! This is nothing to worry about and all of the other functions of your machine should work properly.
Modded bios to fix problems when using multiplier 10 and 10.5 and also to be able to use a higher FSB than with the MSI bios.
http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46052
8) Clearing the CMOS chip
Disconnect the system power cord and push the case power button to drain all remaining power in the psu for approximately 15 seconds
Then move jumper jbat1 and wait 10 seconds and move it back to the original position. You should ensure that the jumper has metal inside of it when removed, sometimes (rarely) they don't. This process resets or clears the CMOS chip and is shown in most motherboard manuals.Now connect the power cord and restart your system.
Some motherboards require that the battery must be removed for 20 minutes before putting the battery and jbat1 back for the CMOS chip to be cleared.
***Starting your K7N2 Delta2 at default settings***
By "labtech1"
As some of you will be aware there is no safe mode jumper J10 on the K7N2 Delta2 series of boards. This has been replaced by the "insert" key method as used by Abit and Epox. To start your board at its default settings following an unsuccessful overclocking attempt you need to do the following using a ps2 keyboard. Turn off your machine and disconnect from the mains or turn off the switch on the back of the power supply. Press the front panel power switch several times to discharge any charge remaining in the power supply capacitors. Reconnect the power by plugging into wall socket or turning on psu power switch. Press and hold down "insert" on the keyboard and press the case front panel power switch. If you are successful it should start the cpu and memory at 100Mhz FSB. If it does press "delete" to reenter the bios to change your settings to known safe settings. Good luck.
9) Harddisks
If your hard drive is giving you problems:
Western Digital (WD) drive's are jumpered somewhat strange compared to others:
No jumper = Stand-Alone drive with no other drive attached to the cable.
Jumper master = Use this setting on your main drive if you have a slave drive installed in your system.
Jumper slave = Use this setting if you have a second hard drive installed in your system.
Cable Select - the preferred jumper setting
If your Hard Drive is doing weird things:
Make sure you have connected the color-coded connectors to the color-coded connectors on the motherboard and connect the other END of the cable to the hard drive. The middle connector can be left unattached without problems if not needed.
Not all motherboards have color-coded connectors.
IBM harddisks seem to fail a lot, try Drive-Fitness-Test on it, see if it has problems.
Run drive fitness test (DFT)
Maxtor also has its own version of hard drive check for their drives and is available from their website.
Any brand of hard drive can have problems so check the manufacturer website to see if there is a testing utility to use to make sure they are ok. Hard drive failures can cause some of the strangest problems with computers and should be checked via the Event Viewer of your Operating System or using the mfg's utility. Sometimes the Event Viewer will give you clues that you have bad sectors leading you to a potential hard drive failure. You could also find IDE/SCSI controllers that are suspect by looking there as well. Win9x and ME DO NOT have Event Viewers.
Alway's be sure your harddisk is in tip-top shape! If you suspect that it's not, replace it to verify.
IDE devices and hard drive guide (Written by Assaf & Bas)
IDE devices and hard drive guide(Written by Assaf & Bas)
To enable a hard drive over 137GB in Win2000 edit this registry key:
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Atapi\Parameters]
"EnableBigLba"=dword:00000001
The K7N2G & Delta -ILSR boards support 2 IDE Devices on IDE 1 & 2, 1 IDE hard drive on IDE3 and 2 SATA drive's on the SATA Ports.
There is a modded bios that allows 2 drives on IDE3. USE THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! Here is a link to it:
http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27626&highlight=
Harddisk/power LED not functioning:
If your Hard Drive or Power LED doesn't work try turning the plug around on the motherboard connector. Some manufacturers don't mark or wire the LED cables properly and the LEDs will only work when + and - is correct.
Hard drive LEDs do not work with SATA drives but O&O Drive LED opens a little window and there you can see when a harddrive or cd is accessed. Works on both ide and sata drives.
10) Floppy Drives
If your floppy drive doesn't work or the LED stays on all of the time make sure the floppy is set correctly in the BIOS because the BIOS doesn't autodetect a floppy drive.
Check the cable making sure that the twist in the cable is at the floppy-drive side and flip the connector at the around. If it stays on after that or you still can't read a floppy disk try another drive or a different manufaturer type drive.
11) USB Ports
USB 2.0 ports are supported ONLY in Win2000 w/SP3 and XP w/SP1. Update your OS from Windows Update and let the OS install the ports after reboot and they should work.
If your USB ports aren't working:
Check in the BIOS if the ports are enabled. If you're using the front USB ports of your case check to see if all of the wires are connected properly.
There are 4 wires for each USB channel.
In some manufaturer's cases they are supplied with a wire called USBOC. Don't connect this as it can cause problems.
Also different mfg's mark the wires with different names so the basic nomenclature would be something like this:
+5v = +VCC
-D = -USB
+D = +USB
Note: Normally the cables are marked as +USB1 or -USB1, +USB2 or -USB2 and so on...please ensure that all of the 1's are together and all of the 2's are together.
12) Replacing parts and the system won't boot after
It's never a good idea to replace stuff like CPU and ram without taking the board out of the case. But if you do so please support the board because if you don't you might bend the board a little and cause trace breakage or component connections to the board to crack or break causing a bad contact. Always support the board when you replace components no matter what!
Also make sure your system is compatible with any replacement component. For example your PSU may not be able to handle a video card upgrade from a GeForce2 440MX to a GeForce4 Ti-4600 because the +12v rail is too low or the motherboard isn't rated to output the proper voltage to the AGP port.
If you have parts that work in another computer with a different chipset this DOES NOT mean they will work with the nforce2 chipset.
13) Graphics Card
If there is stability problem and/or can't use agp 8x then update to the latest bios and it should work. Also try to disable the 8x feature of the motherboard in the BIOS. If neither of these work then you may have a PSU that is under-powered and needs to be replaced. You could also have a faulty video card, AGP port on the motherboard among other things. If you have to disable the 8x feature in the BIOS then there is still a problem even if the card starts working. That may mean the motherboard is bad. Also use the latest drivers available from the respective manufacturer and don't forget to uninstall the old drivers first!! There is a sticky post in the VGA forum that details this process.
14) Checking the power supply
Don't do this if you don't know what you are doing!
a) Disconnect the power supply.
b) Orient the 20-pin power connector with the clip up.
c) Locate pin 4 and pin 8 top row, mostly green and black wire. (Usually the PSU manufacturer will have a drawing labeling the pins on their website)
d) Use a wire to short them (or better a 12V test lamp).
e) Now connect the power cord and the fan inside the power supply should start spinning. If it doesn't your power supply might be dead.
15) Windows
a) If you find that Windows2000/XP won't run stable:
Try to disable APIC and install again. Not all drivers/devices like the APIC.
b) Windows2000/XP won't install USB 2.0:
Install the latest service pack using Windows Update (SP3 Win2000 or SP1 WinXP). Windows should detect the USB ports on reboot and install the drivers for them. They should work now but if not you could have a faulty motherboard.
If you use a current or slipstreamed copy of Win2K or XP with the latest service pack they include these new drivers. This download will no longer be available on Windows Update.
USE THESE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!
Slipstreaming Win2K with Service Packs and Creating a Bootable CD:
http://old.bink.nu/bootcd/
Slipstreaming Windows XP Service Packs and Creating a Bootable CD
http://www.windows-help.net/WindowsXP/winxp-sp1-bootcd.html
16) Raid
Configure a raid array:
After you have connected 1 or 2 hard drives to your Raid IDE port(s) press CTRL + F during boot and create a raid array.
It is possible to have 2 raid arrays working at the same time.
To boot from a raid array set SCSI as the first boot device.
To install windows on a raid array you have to press F6 to load raid drivers during the initial install of windows. This will be repeated during Windows desktop installation of drivers because the initial drivers are only loaded to memory during this initial install allowing the Windows installation program to access the raid drives. A default driver is loaded at bootup so that the drives can be accessed until the real drivers are loaded from the MB disk.
Raid 0 sets up striping which gives more performance for applications. Raid 1 sets up mirroring which gives drive security by duplicating the primary drive to the secondary drive.
When using two different sized drives in a raid array, the larger drive is forced to only use the amount of disk space that the smaller drive provides.
nForce 2 raid FAQ
(Mostly by Wonkanoby)
The third IDE only works with harddrives not optical drives such as CD,DVD. It only supports one drive.
You must create an array first, weather you are using 2 drives or just one
or nothing will happen .
You must also have a 3.5 floppy with the appropriate drivers handy.
INSTALLATION
To install raid as a boot drive.
Control + F and make the array.
Set SCSI second to cdrom in boot order.
Boot to xp cd and hit F6 as it prompts you to do right at the beginning and then insert the floppy.
This will be repeated during Windows desktop installation of drivers because the initial drivers are only loaded to memory during this initial install allowing the Windows installation program to access the raid drives.
The rest of the format/install is all as normal.
Drivers for the raid can be found here.
http://us-download.msi.com.tw/support/dvr_exe/sata48N.exe
Promise PDC20376 Serial-ATA RAID Utility
http://us-download.msi.com.tw/support/dvr_exe/37653.exe
If you make a new floppy, unrar them.
Then copy every thing including the text files to the floppy.
(no text files, nothing happens)
MODDED BIOS
such as
http://www.nforcershq.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=27626
There are several offering full RAID.
They add ability to have 2x drives on ide 3.
I'm skeptical running raid 0 with both on the same ide myself.
Now these you must get the bios and the drivers.
The drivers are not the same as those for the RAID MSI includes.
The drivers are linked on that BIOS page I have provided.
RAID 0, sets up striping, which gives more performance for applications.
RAID 1, sets up mirroring which gives drive security by duplicating the primary drive to the secondary drive.
When using two different sized drives in a RAID array, the larger drive is forced to only use the amount of disk space that the smaller drive provides.
17) Good Links
J*A*G'S *Updated* nForce Cooling Guide (written by JAG)
Suggestions on posting and getting better answers (written by GlennVidia)
Good Memory Choices for K7N2G- IL and ILSR Board (written by Bonz)
ati problem ,post vga card model and bios (written by Wonkanoby)
Powersupplies(Written by Bas)
Moan Guide (Written by Wonkanoby)
A few good websites to have around!!
The Freeware Thread
NFORCE 2 OVERCLOCKING AND MODDING GUIDES
Use these guides, including the content of this entire guide, at your own risk!
This forum and it's members, including MSI, assume no liability whatsoever!
Part One
Part Two
I am not an expert on computers so I have most likely forgotten a lot of things. Please send me a private message or email me and I will add it if it's applicable. If you feel that something here is in error then please contact me via the above as well.
I also want to thank everyone that helped put this guide together.
All Star Lineup!
Arioch
DeathStalker
maesus
ClarkKent57
boost
Assaf
Bas
Tweetyoost
Stygge
HansH
GlennVidia
RoganJosh
Bonz
Wonkanoby
Dragon60
[T-A]_Super_10
labtech1 -
Trouble shooting guide required
Hi Gurus,
Can any one provide me any documents for error handling guide for SAP BODS. Where we can check our errors and can resolve them.
Thanks in Advance,
DJHi Akhilesh,
Can you give me some documents on this.
Thanks & Regards,
DJ -
Here are my stats from the diagnostics.
Microsoft Windows 7 x64 Home Premium Edition Service Pack 1 (Build 7601)
Hewlett-Packard HP Pavilion dv6 Notebook PC
iTunes 11.0.2.26
QuickTime 7.7.3
FairPlay 2.3.31
Apple Application Support 2.3.3
iPod Updater Library 10.0d2
CD Driver 2.2.3.0
CD Driver DLL 2.1.3.1
Apple Mobile Device 6.1.0.13
Apple Mobile Device Driver 1.59.0.0
Bonjour 3.0.0.10 (333.10)
Gracenote SDK 1.9.6.502
Gracenote MusicID 1.9.6.115
Gracenote Submit 1.9.6.143
Gracenote DSP 1.9.6.45
The current local date and time is 2013-05-02 10:41:33.
iTunes is not running in safe mode.
WebKit accelerated compositing is enabled.
HDCP is supported.
Core Media is supported.
Video Display Information
Intel Corporation, Intel(R) HD Graphics 3000
**** External Plug-ins Information ****
No external plug-ins installed.
**** Device Connectivity Tests ****
iPodService 11.0.2.26 (x64) is currently running.
iTunesHelper 11.0.2.26 is currently running.
Apple Mobile Device service 3.3.0.0 is currently running.
Universal Serial Bus Controllers:
Renesas Electronics USB 3.0 Host Controller. Device is working properly.
Intel(R) 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family USB Enhanced Host Controller - 1C26. Device is working properly.
Intel(R) 6 Series/C200 Series Chipset Family USB Enhanced Host Controller - 1C2D. Device is working properly.
No FireWire (IEEE 1394) Host Controller found.If you have been through all of the steps in the knowldge base article, especially restarting the Apple Mobile Device Service, have you tried connecting in recovery mode? Start iTunes, connect the USB end of the cable, and then while pressing the home button connect the dock connecter end of the cable to the iPod.
But most basic, have you tried connecting using different cables to be sure there is not a wiring fault? -
Where can I find motherboard general trouble shooting guide?
"Refer to http://www.msi.com.tw/program/e_service/forum/index.php?threadid=1131&boardid=13&styleid=1"
dont work..Just post your problems here, and let the community answer your problems..
-
I have resently updated to mavericks and my camera has been working fine, then it has just stopped registering on the comuter. I have followed all the instructions of the trouble shooting guide for isight and still nothing is registering.
I have resently updated to mavericks and my camera has been working fine, then it has just stopped registering on the comuter. I have followed all the instructions of the trouble shooting guide for isight and still nothing is registering.
-
I can't log into my iTunes account on my iPhone 5s. I logged out a few days ago to trouble shoot because I was trying to redeem some iTunes cards but when i pressed redeem nothing happened. I then tried to log back in immediately afterwards. I was unable to do so. After clicking "sign in" at the bottom of the apps main page, it brought up another menu where I clicked "Choose existing Apple ID". After pressing this the menu disappeared and nothing happened. I tried this multiple times and received the same result each time. I tried the other available option of creating a new AP ID to log in with and that one worked perfectly fine. I am clueless as to why the log in for me is either not able to load or just completely blocking me from getting back into my iTunes account on my phone. Not only can I not listen to the music I currently have, but I cannot log in to purchase the new music that I wanted to with my unused iTunes gift cards
I have the same problem too and tried alot of things like time zone , restarting or changing DNS of wifi connection to 8.8.8.8 still nothing happens .. !!
iPhone 5s, iOS 8.3 -
i have an iMac with mountain lion 10.8.3 with boot camp 5.0.2 .i installed windows 7 -64 bit with boot camp but the boot camp didn't install drivers for windows please guide me for trouble shooting .
Kappy wrote:
Boot Camp doesn't install the drivers. You have the drivers on a separate USB device if you followed directions. Once in Windows connect the USB drive with the driver software. It should startup automatically and install the drivers.
You don't even need to do that. As downloading the drivers from within Boot Camp Assistant can be unreliable, it is better to get the package directly from here:
http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1638
Copy the .zip file to a USB flash drive or burn it to a DVD in OS X. Install Windows as normal, insert the flash drive/DVD in Windows, copy the .zip file to the hard drive, extract it, then run the setup executable. -
I can not get itunes card to work says inactive. have followed all trouble shooting and can not get through to support via email or phone
If the card hasn't been activated properly then have you tried taking it back to the store that you bought it from and asking them to activate it properly ?
How have you tried to contact iTunes Support ? You should be able to do so via this page (you will probably need to give them images of the front and back of the card, and possibly its receipt) : http://www.apple.com/support/itunes/contact/ - click on Contact iTunes Store Support on the right-hand side of the page, then iTunes Cards And Codes. If that page doesn't load then have you tried clearing your browser's cache/history and/or tried a different browser ? -
655 Max FISR SATA & Video Card Troubles
Hi all
I put together my 655 Max FISR (non HT) based system 3 weeks ago and have had nothing but problems (this is the third PC I've built and it's the only one to have caused major problems). Initially the memory and video card were problematic, stopping me from installing Windows XP, but having read some of the other threads the poor old 655 seems to have lots of problems with various components.
My motherboard hated the Crucial Technology PC3200 512Mb memory (CT6464Z40B) I put in DIMM 1 and the MSI 5600U VTD-128 video card. Anyway suffice to say I solved the problems easily enough. I swapped the memory and the video card over with that in my MSI 645e Max U (the video card was a Connect 3D Radeon 7500 for info). The 645 runs beautifully with no problems whatsoever, unlike the 655!
I've now upgraded the Radeon 7500 to a Sapphire Radeon 9600XT which works really well. So if you are having problems with a card based on an nVidia chipset (which Win XP keeps saying has drivers that don't pass the compatability test) I'd try the ATI cards.
My main problem now is with the two Western Digital SATA drives I've got setup in a RAID 0 array.
Firstly I'm getting poor disk transfer rates (I used the SiSoftware Sandra utility to benchmark the file system, and got a really poor 23Mb/s). As an example Windows XP loads up in 1 minute 8 seconds from power on, unlike the 645 with a 80Gb Maxtor DiamondMax 9 which does it in 45 seconds - I was getting Windows up in 32 seconds after initial installation of XP!!! Now I know I've got PC2100 memory in this machine, but it seems to have got slower since I did a driver and Windows XP update (hope this isn't anything to do with the I've downloaded).
The second problem is a bit more serious, one of my Raptor drives keeps dropping off line when I run either the error checking or defragmentation tools in Windows. The computer shuts down and re-boots only to tell me there's been a problem (a drive has failed or disconnected) before asking for a boot floppy. Fortunately, if I delete then redefine the array I get the system up and running again, but it is annoying! Problem is, with the 655's reputation, I don't know whether I have a motherboard, cable or drive problem. A limited trouble shoot by swapping over the drives has ascertained which one the system alleges to keep failing, but I'm now stuck, short of trying new cables, or buying a SATA RAID controller and sticking it in the 645 to see if it is one of the drives that's at fault.
So any ideas on the drive situation?
Best regardsApologies for being away for a while, been busy with work & sorting out a pair of bad Raptors drives! Thanks for the replies from Hellwolf_36 and simps.
I can now report that after I'd worked out that I'd got not one but two damaged 74Gb WD Raptor drive (one had a lot of bad sectors and the other would take over two hours instead of 20 minutes to format which is why I was getting that stop message) and I had replaced the memory with one stick of the Kingston KV400X64C25/512 DDR, my 655 is now working quite well. I haven't got round to checking if I've got the latest C-media driver installed though.
One thing I did do though was set up my Raptor drives as two independant arrays (C: & D:) rather than RAIDing them. This is because, I didn't want to stripe the drives just in case of another failure, plus I have more flexibility over storage space not mirroring the drives, unti lI can afford to by another hard drive or two. Anyway they're really fast in the first place.
For this motherboard I wouldn't bother with any other type of memory other than the KV400X64C25 as recommended on the MSI website, as it's quite fast and no hassle, (can't wait to get my second 512Mb so I can go back to dual channel!!) Only problem is that the price has gone up a little bit over the past couple of months.
So apart from this MoBo being particular about graphics cards and memory it's not too bad. My next challenges are too sort out the center/sub problem and network this baby.
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