Attempting to purchase a Mac router. Would love some help narrowing down what I am looking at.
I would like a list of their products to know what model and year I am purchasing. Exp.. Apple AirPort Extreme Base Station (Simultaneous Dual-Band) (MC340LL/A) Vs Airport Extreme 802.11N (5TH GEN) & or Airport extreme base station (Gigabit MB053LL/A
This is due to my willingness to purchase a refurbished or used router. I have a Macbook Pro and am worried of purchasing an old model with the existing picture. Thanks
If you don't have a backup regime in place, you might like to consider a Time Capsule instead - this would give you ample wireless (and wired) router capability plus the peace of mind that comes with automated backups. Time Capsules are often also available as refurbs in Apple's online store.
Similar Messages
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I've messed up my boot camp partition and would love some help :)
OK So here's what I've done..
I removed my optical drive, inserted a hard drive caddy, moved my main 750GB hard drive to this location, installed a brand new 250GB SSD, installed Mavericks on said SSD, and booted up. Everything was happy. But now I have 550 GB of my 750GB taken up by my old install of OSX. I took all of my files off, put them on an external drive, and formatted the OSX Journaled portion of the hard drive to ExFat. This, of course, broke the ability to boot from Windows.
My goal:
250GB SSD: OSX
750 Hard Drive: 200GB to Windows, the remaining in a format writable to both Windows and Mac. (which is why I chose ExFat).
And, obviously, the ability to boot from either.
What do I do? I don't have any of my original install media from Windows (I think it was a W7 install that I upgraded with a download to W8 from M$'s website). I'd like to retain everything that's installed there already on BC and just repair it somehow. I've read around that ReFit might help. I'm willing to try it if the general consensus says that's the way to go.
Also, I've noticed that when I changed my user account to be able to store on my ExFat drive, that it can never finish indexing and I can't install dropbox. Is there a better solution to what I'm trying to do?So, since I got no bites here... How about this...
I formatted that ExFat partition to a Mac OS Journaled partition, and my computer seems to be working great. I will keep it like this. Anyone know how to repair that Windows install from BootCamp? -
After Effects very slow - would love some help
Ok,
Here is my system :
Vista 64 Ult.
Q6600
P5Q-E
8 gig of RAM
Geforce GSO 9600
I am working with a project that is 1500 X 1050 (approx) - it contains some camera moves and some page peel effects on pictures - and it is running unbearably slow...
I have enabled Disk caching to a separate SATA drive - also I notice that when I am running CS3 - is saying it only recognizes 4 gigs of RAM.
I have also enable Multiprocess for frames. Now, I am not even close to a regular user of After Effects, so this might come as obvious, but what can I do here? Is there a set of steps to help me speed this up? I did take a look at
http://help.adobe.com/en_US/AfterEffects/9.0/WSF13D6BED-C53B-408a-B2D6-C8B4205D4FB7a.html
for improving performance and I did try to touch on most of the points I could understand like making my virtual drive space to 2X the amount of RAM.
Now, I am trying to precompose most of my elements, but I don't know if that is overkill. Really, I just want to ensure that with my new system, it was worth the money and upgrade.Thanks for all the effort and time. I think I might be getting somewhere with your help.
"You are right. Plus if your render crashes you won't have to re-render the already rendered frames. PNG is lossless quality where JPEG is lossy quality. Depending on the compression setting, the computation from the calculated jpg frame can be lower than the computation time for PNG. You can try on a 30 sec portion to see what is faster."
I haven't tried JPG yet but I will. I want to have something that I can output to DVD with decent quality. Right now .mov looks good, but will try the JPGS.
Another thing to take into account is the writing speed of the file on your HDD. If you are rendering on the same disk where the sources are, or on a USB external drive, it will take more time than rendering on an internal sata/e-stata drive or a raid array. In image sequence, this is more important as AE have to write/close a file for each frame, and depending on your configuration (windows,mac, antivirus, timemachine...) it can make a huge difference.
I have a separate SATA drive for disk caching. I did that right away. I was wondering about the memory caching though in the preferences panel - I am not sure if I should just leave the defaults for that :
MAX MEMORY USAGE
MAX DISK CACHE SIZE
"If on PC try to disconnect it from the web and turn of your antivirus."
My rendering computer is not connected to the internet, so I don't have an anti-virus running on it. It only get programs from my internet computer that have been thoroughly checked first.
You will save time. Turn off disk indexing too.
How do I do this on a PC?
Could you please explain what you mean by "negate its impact fully by using the corresponding layer style instead of the effect. They it's slightly faster"?
Instead of using the drop shadow effect, right clic on your layer in the time line menu and select "Layer style > Drop shadow". It will have the same behavior/options than the Photoshop counterpart. It's better and faster than the drop shadow effect.
I will try this. Thanks
A good way to know what step takes more time than the other (and a good way to figure out what part of the process you have to optimise) is twirling down, in the render queue the "current render" line. It will tell you for every frame, what the rendering is actually doing. The longer the step, the longer it's name will stay on screen.
That is a great tip.
Can you tell me if the comp size makes a difference when I am rendering out 720X540? The main challenge for me is that I have about another 10 minutes to add to the project. I don't want this to take me 2 hours to render out 15 minutes!
Well it probably will. 2 hours of rendering for 15minutes is not that bad. You're doing motion graphics, not editing. Also, if your pictures are jpeg, it add computational time, because the render have to decompress it in memory in order to work with it. If you have disk space, you'd rather like to convert all your jpeg to uncompressed tiff files, so the render engine will just have to load it in memory in order to press it.
That is another great idea. I didn't know that TIFF were better.
I am going to OC my Q6600 slight, to see if there is any effect. Another issue I am running into is that AE says my Graphics card is not an OPENGL card. But the package says it is!
Have you downloaded the latest drivers for your card yet ? If not try to do so, restart your PC and check again into AE."
Yes, I have the newest drivers (it is a new card and I had to go to the NVIDIA site just to get them. The problem is that I have posted on the NVIDIA board days ago about this issue and no one has given me an answer yet concerning this. I just checked again with AE - it says. "NO COMPATIBLE OPENGL CARD FOUND"
It is an Nvidia 9600 GSO 768Mg video card. -
Hi folks. Since my last software update, my computer has slowed to a near halt. Help!
I have a late 2009 MacBook Pro, running OS X 10.8.2. 2.26 Ghz / 8 gb memory.
I went into the Disk Utility and ran "verify disk," and got an "ok." Verified and repaired disk permissions. No idea if they're relevant.
At this moment the activity monitor is showing 3.79 gb of free memory -- 10 minutes ago, when I was doing nothing particularly differently, it showed all 7.99 gb in use (active and inactive -- I have. No idea what this means.)
It's all beach balls around here, all the time. Any ideas?Your problem is excessive swapping of data between physical memory and virtual memory.
That can happen for two reasons:
You have a long-running process with a memory leak (i.e., a bug), or
You don't have enough memory installed for your usage pattern.
Tracking down a memory leak can be difficult, and it may come down to a process of elimination. In Activity Monitor, select All Processes from the menu in the toolbar, if not already selected. Click the heading of the Real Mem column in the process table twice to sort the table with the highest value at the top. If you don't see that column, select
View ▹ Columns ▹ Real Memory
from the menu bar.
If one process (excluding "kernel_task") is using much more memory than all the others, that could be an indication of a leak. A better indication would be a process that continually grabs more and more memory over time without ever releasing it.
If you don't have an obvious memory leak, your options are to install more memory (if possible) or to run fewer programs simultaneously.
The next suggestion is only for users familiar with the shell. For a more precise, but potentially misleading, test, run the following command:
sudo leaks -nocontext -nostacks process | grep total
where process is the name of a process you suspect of leaking memory. Almost every process will leak some memory; the question is how much, and especially how much the leak increases with time. I can’t be more specific. See the leaks(1) man page and the Apple developer documentation for details:
Memory Usage Performance Guidelines: About the Virtual Memory System -
Would appreciate some help - not sure what just happened?
This is my first post to the Forums, and I have only had my phone for a couple of days (I've never had a smartphone before either), so please bear with me if I sound completely ignorant.
I just got my HTC Droid Incredible over the weekend and I have fallen in love with it! I had no problems until just a few minutes ago. I went to answer a call, but accidentally hit the button to end the call. I just hit the "phone" button to get back into the phone dialer where I could call them back. At this point my screen just went black, and eventually brought up a little red triangle with a red exclamation point on the screen. I kept trying to turn it on but nothing would happen, so I took the battery out, put it back in, and turned it back on. It turned back on, but it brought up a screen that had a little picture of a Droid character and it had several menu options (One of them was recovery, can't remember what the other ones were). I kept hitting the volume up and power button and finally the phone turned back on, and now it seems as if everything is fine with it. Does anyone have any idea why it would do that, and what menu option I could have selected? I am afraid I did something that will mess up the phone.
Thank you in advance for your help!One thing i wanted to add when u are lookin at new apps read the reviews Closely an also post on here the app u thinking about getting an ask if the App or apps. is ok to use or thougts on them if we've used them an we've had no Issues with the App ur good
to go. an one other thing if a task killer was installed for ya Take it out as they are no good. and can cause conflics with D inc other than that Have fun with Her an keep posting . an again welcome to the Comunity .
one other thing U can do that can help you.: read the Manual: Heres a Link to get you to the Right place so u can download the Htc Manual for the D inc.
http://support.vzw.com/clc/devices/index.html?p=5269&m=
If you have Latest Adobe Reader after you go to this link click on Device Manual an u can get one in PDF form. -
how is compatibility with creative cloud products (Photoshop and Illustrator) with Macbook Pro? I am making a big purchase and would love some
feedbackHi Frederick,
You're spending a lot of money. I will add my 2¢ -- -- but you must, as I assume you know, fully research your options.
Environment:
Start with your workspace (inc. lighting) and your clothes.
Screen:
The iMac screens are lovely, but not, from what I hear, monitor-grade accurate. For critical color work, use NEC or Eizo monitors. I use NEC, with their SpectraView II software and an X-Rite ColorMunki photospectrometer. At the time, this was the least expensive color-calibrated workflow.
Printer:
Epson's are great, imho. I use a 3880 in my studio and rent a 9900 by the hour when needed. I have read of problems (iirc) with one of the printers in the 7000 line, however. The take-home lesson that I filed in my brain was, "If you're going to spend the money on the 7000 line, just get the 9000 line."
Aperture workflow:
Aperture is a fantastic workflow tool. Since you are adept with PS, you should set PS as your external editor. Use Apertures formidable tools for storing and organizing your Images, and its robust editing tools for either all your proofing, or all but your most demanding editing needs. That said, allow a good bit of time to get the feel of Aperture. It is not at all like Bridge. But your important choice is which RAW converter you want to use. There is, imho, no reason to use Aperture if you are going to use Adobe's (or anyone else's) RAW converter.
Good luck!
--Kirby. -
In the market for a new computer would love some feedback
Ok so I have a dilemma,
First problem is I can't decide between a laptop and a desktop if I went the laptop route I would go with the Asus N53qm
Asus N53 Specs
Its got i7 720qm, some sites have it with 740qm, ddr3 memory, 425m cuda video card,
Id upgrade the ram to at least 8gb or ram maybe upgrade more down the road.... Id be editing video off esata or usb 3.0
I see the advantage of having a laptop being able to work on the road, taking it to my bed....
Id plug it into an external monitor/mouse, keyboard when at my desk.
My other option I would be a desktop
Specs would be,
x58 motherboard, havnt decided which one yet, theres a lot that seem to all have the same features, eg. msi, asus, gigabyte.
Again ddr3 memory I notices 2000 was not much more than 1333, so yea as much ram as I want down the road....
GTX 470
850 watt corsair
Intel Core i7 950
Thermaltake A60 Case
Again most of my projects would most likely be through esata or usb 3.0 not sure which is better...
Oh and I would be editing HD Video from a flash based camcorder, Cannon HSF 10 to be specific, so its .mts avchd
Anyways, how much of a performance increase would I get from the desktop over the laptop?
I notice a lot of people overclock, is that really necessary, isnt an i7 pretty fast stock?
Thanks and please let me know your thoughts, advice changes to my specs...Would love some feedack from the experts on this config available at Tiger direct for about $1,000
My Goal: to edit AVCHD footage using CS5....looking at the specs below specifically the processor, the video card and the RAM..what do you think?
( I currently have CS3 on an HP Quad Core 2.4Ghz w/ 8GB RAM which is great for SD, but I realize that when upgrading to CS5 and editing my Sony HDR-500v AVCHD footage I'l need much more power) Thanks!!
Lenova Brand PC
Specifications
Condition:
New
Lifestyle:
Entertainment
Operating Systems:
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-Bit
Platform:
PC
Orientations Allowed:
Vertical
Colors:
Black
Red
PS/2 Connectors:
1 - Mouse
1 - Keyboard
USB Ports (Total):
8
Audio Out Jacks:
3
1 - Headphone
Line In Jacks:
1
Microphone Jacks:
2
VGA Ports:
1
HDMI Ports:
1
S-Video Connectors:
1
S/PDIF Connectors:
1
Processor Brand:
Intel
Processor Class:
Core i7
Processor Number:
860
Processor Speed:
2.80GHz
Processor Interface:
Socket 1156
Processors Supported:
1
Processors Onboard:
1
Memory Type:
DDR3
Total Memory:
8.0GB
Memory Speed:
1066MHz
Hard Drives Included:
1
Hard Drive Types:
Hard Disk Drive
Interface:
SATA
Capacity:
1TB
Speed:
7,200RPM
Optical Drives Included:
1
Optical Drive Type:
DVD±R/RW
Optical Drive Class:
DVDRW
Supplemental Media Type:
Card Reader
Capacity:
16-in-1
Audio Description:
Integrated Audio
Channels:
5.1 channel Surround Sound Support
Graphics Description:
Dedicated Graphics
GPU/VPU:
NVIDIA GeForce GT 320
Video Memory:
1GB dedicated
Video Interface:
HDMI
VGA
WiFi Chipset:
Integrated
WiFi Data Transfer Rate:
up to 300Mbps
WiFi Description:
Wireless LAN 802.11 b/g/n
WiFi Standards Supported:
802.11b
802.11g
802.11n
LAN Data Transfer Rate:
10/100 Mbps
LAN Description:
Fast Ethernet
LAN Interface Type:
RJ-45
LAN Ports:
1
Mouse Type:
Optical
Connection Type:
USB
Power Source:
USB Connection -
Would appreciate some help here still fairly new to MAC
Ok I've made the mistake of installing a program called Anacron which is supposed to help with the maintenance of OS X. Well I found out after the fact that there is no need to install ANY programs for maintenance as it is all built into the OS now. So I went to uninstall it and wow has this been a headache . First off there is NO uninstaller and when following the read me file that I found to uninstall it, part of it works and part of it doesn't. This is the information to just disable it (not delete it):
How do I disable or remove anacron?
To disable anacron, run the following commands in a terminal:
cd /Library/LaunchDaemons
sudo launchctl unload -w ./anacron.plist
cd /System/Library/LaunchDaemons
sudo launchctl load -w ./com.apple.periodic-daily.plist
sudo launchctl load -w ./com.apple.periodic-weekly.plist
sudo launchctl load -w ./com.apple.periodic-monthly.plist
The above worked, but the info which is supposed to help you delete it all together does NOT work and I would appreciate some help/comments on why it doesn't. Here is the info for deleting it:
To completely remove anacron from your system, delete (trash):
/usr/local/sbin/anacron
/usr/local/share/man/man5/anacrontab.5
/usr/local/share/man/man8/anacron.8
/Library/LaunchDaemons/anacron.plist
/etc/anacrontab
/var/spool/anacron
/Library/Receipts/Anacron.pkg
When I use Terminal to get in there and delete that stuff, when I try and delete Anacron, I'm given a list of file attributes (I guess) .. it looks something like this:
override rwxr-xr-x root/wheel for anacron?
What in the world does this mean and how in the world can I get this crap deleted from my system? Seems like everything I do is not enough to get this stuff deleted.
Thank you for your time"Are you borrowing some frined's account, you have lots of messages here for a guy fairly new to mac"
No, the mac is mine, and this is my account. I still consider myself pretty new to MAC OS X. The time of me registering here is right at the same time I received my iMac which is just over a year. To me that is still pretty new I may have a buttload of posts, but that doesn't mean I know a lot about MAC OS X and the MAC computers.
I certainly appreciate your help with this problem. It worked flawlessly. This is very much like DOS in windows......yuk, just reflecting on the past. Thank you again, sooo much. I now feel much better, what a relief.
Edit: Oh by the way, just answering "Yes" gave me, if I remember correctly, something about forbidden. But doing it the way you described above using the sudo lines worked great and it asked me for my user password, I put it in, then everything was ok, it deleted everything I wanted it to.
Message was edited by: QuickDraw -
Hello, I had a problem recently where my imac crashed to a blue screen while running windows in bootcamp. It appeared to be a major problem and I could no longer boot to the windows partition.
I was able to finally start my computer up on the mac partition thanks to some help from the forum there. However it appeared that the windows portion had met a fatal problem so I deleted the partition from the mac os partition. I continued to try and restall that partition but recieved an error.
After more research it appeared the error would be fixed by using disk utility to repair the hard drive. I ran the disk repair and it froze midway through. I waited an hour and it was still frozen so I restared.
After restarting there was the folder with the ? it appears my entire mac os partition was also eliminated. I now have the mac-os cd in and am attempting to re-install but am coming across a problem.
When prompted with a select destination volume to install mac os it is empty. It appears my harddrive is gone.
If i go under utilities: Disk utility there is an icon of a harddrive called "media" however i cannot verify or repair anything on it. It also displays a total capacity of 0bytes.
Under system profiler Serial-ATA it reads there was an error while scanning.
Does this all mean that my harddrive died? And if so can it be replaced by the apple store? The computer reads iMac 7,1 intel core duo.
thank you very much in advance.It possible your iMac's HD has failed. Run Apple Hardware Test: http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1509 if it reports errors then yes you are due for a trip to your local Apple Store or AASP, either can repair it.
Because you don't state where you are located I'm not sure this link will work. If you are in the US then it's fine. http://www.apple.com/buy/locator/service/
Please update your profile with more information.
Good luck,
Roger -
I would like some help in determining the proper structure/implementation
I would like some help in determining the proper structure/implementation for the following scenario:
I have ~10 steel rods that have been equipped with a strain gauge. The most I would have is ~30 steel rods.
Each setup has had a 10 point calibration done.
These steel rod/strain gauge setups are assigned a calibration number.
The data would be grouped for each steel rod and identified by the calibration number.
I would like to use that calibration data to determine the Young’s Modulus for each steel rod and store that within the specific rod’s information.
I want the user to be able to add new steel rods dynamically and the Young’s Modulus calculated and stored with it.
There are two different types of rods.
The cross-sectional area of the rod needs to be stored and that value is constant based on the rod type (so there are two different area values).
After a rod’s calibration data is entered the first time, the data should be static so it doesn’t need to be re-entered.
The user would enter the cal#, the 10 point calibration data, and the rod type.
The user will only see the steel rod cal# on the FP.
I am using a queue-based producer/consumer with event structure for the front panel interface. So I’m thinking whenever a rod cal# was added I would call a subvi where the calibration data can be entered and then the Young’s Modulus could be calculated and stored. An option to edit/review existing cal data should be available.
LabVIEW 2010, Win 7.
My initial idea was:
Rod Arr – array of clusters:
Rod Info - cluster:
Calibration number – string
Rod Scale cluster:
mV/V – double array
force – double array
Young’s Modulus – double
Rod type – enum
Cross-sectional area – double
I have not implemented this because I’m not sure how to implement that AND keep the data after it’s been entered. And all of the bundling/unbundling anytime I want to access/edit any rod information can be BD consuming. I thought a lookup table might work. When I looked on the forums for a lookup table I was pointed in the direction of arrays/clusters.
So I have two questions:
What would be the best structure for the steel rod data?
What would be the best data type for the calibration# that the user can edit (enum, ring, ?)?I would make a couple of small change to your proposed data layout (highlighted in blue):
Rod Arr – array of clusters:
Rod Info - cluster:
Calibration number – string
Array of Rod Scale cluster:
mV/V – double
force – double
Young’s Modulus – double
Rod type – enum
Cross-sectional area – double
For the calibration data, I would have an array of clusters rather than a cluster of arrays. IMHO, this makes it easier to index through the calibration points, and makes it less likely you will ever have a situation where you don't have the same number of mV/V and force points. I'd also move the Young's modulus, type, and area info into the Rod Info cluster.
I prefer to store this type of configuration in the system registry, but that is more complicated and far from universal in the LabVIEW world. A simpler way would be to simply pass the entire array to the "write to binary file" function. If you do this, however, you might want to add a version number, otherwise it will be very difficult to maintain backwards compatibility if you ever need to change the data structure.
As far as the control type, it depends on what the user is entering. If the user is mostly entering calibration numbers already in the system, I would use a (system) combo box. This allows the user to select an existing calibration number from the menu, but also to enter a new calibration number if they need to. If the user will almost always enter new calibration numbers, then I would use a standard string control. Either way, you'll probably want to validate the format of the number the user enters.
Mark Moss
Electrical Validation Engineer
GHSP -
My iPhone 4S on iOS7 is stuck on Apple Logo, and it goes off, then back to Apple Logo again for hours. Pressing home button together with sleep button does not help. Plugging the phone to Mac and restart does not help either. What do I do?
Have not backed up for months, so prefer not to lose the data.
Thank you for your help in advance.Restore iPhone with iTunes on computer. Open iTunes on computer. Connect iPhone to computer with USB cable. Hold both Home and Power buttons until iTunes recognizes iPhone in Recovery Mode, usually about 20 seconds time of holding both buttons. Click the Update or Restore button that iTunes offers.
-
So, what are the best settings to record in using Canon HD Vixia HG20 for easy migration into iMovee'11 v.9.0.9?
It would be most helpful to list what the best possible settings are.
frame rate?
format? FXP?I suggest filming in 30P with this camera. That should be the MXP setting.
You could also use 30i which would be the FXP setting.
You will get the best results in iMovie by shooting progressive. -
I bought an album on iTunes and 3 of the songs only play for 30 seconds. I have tried re-downloading the album 3 times and the problem has not been fixed. I would like some help please and thank you.
Artist: Imagine Dragons
Album: Night VisionReport it here:
iTunes Store Support
http://www.apple.com/emea/support/itunes/contact.html -
Would love some advice on a new purchase . . .
I want to buy a new laptop. I currently have a 2001 PowerPC G4. 500MHz with 640 RAM. I'd love some advice on a new purchase. Sorry if this gets long-winded.
These are my desires:
(1) A serious upgrade in speed, into the Giga world. I work for a law firm, and I do a lot of research. Lexis-nexis seems to put a serious strain on my G4. I see some of the new models are over 2 gigs. I've read that 2 gigs is not 4x faster than 500Mhz, in the linear sense. Will going from 500 to 2 gigs nevertheless be substantially noticeable.
(2) More memory. In the near future, my employer is going to give its attorneys outside access to our email system and hard drive files. It would seem to me that I'll need to clear as much memory to make room for that. It look like most of the new models have a max space of 2 Ghz. That's more than 3 times the space i currently have. I'd like to think more memory will make my OS run more smoothly. If that's true, I wouldn't mind spending more money to get the biggest memory chip.
(3) I do a lot of word processing. I grew up on Macs (California girl), but I gave up on AppleWorks a couple years ago. I hated it. I purchased Word:Mac and have been very happy with it. Nevertheless, Word:Mac slows me down. Again, that seems to be consistent with the whole need for more speed and memory.
(4) I want wireless connectivity. I assume new Macs come with this capability (Airport?), but I'm not sure if I'll need an upgrade during the buying process. And I really have no idea how buying the airport hardware/software impacts my need what I have to but from my ISP (my cable company).
(5) The 15 inch seems like a nicer upgrade; 17 would be nicer, but I don't need it.
(6) I really don't want to spend more than $2500.00. But I'll spend a little more if it makes sense.
(7) Protection. I've read that Tiger is substantially safer than other OS's. That said, if someone could infect/corrupt/whatever my files (or access client files), that would be a disaster. I've read that Norton slows your down and is unecessary with Tiger.
There's a lot of pretty cool things Mac offers that I DON'T use. Like making movies or the isight stuff. I'm mainly a girl who is either writing, researching, emailing, or reading stuff online.
I'd love some advice. Some of the stuff I've read online has left me with too many questions.
Thanks!
Lindsay(1) Comparing clock speeds isn't a good way to compare processors. That said, because of various architecture changes, the MBP is probably a solid 8-10 times faster than your G4 system.
(2) Definately max out the RAM. My advice is to get the stock, single 1GB stick from Apple, and then head over to Crucial and buy yourself another stick. It's fairly easy to install, and Apple gives you a step by step guide on the MBP manual. You could have Apple pop in another stick, but it'll cost you more than double what you'll pay by going with Crucial ($300 vs. $135)
(3) Office:Mac will work just fine on your MBP. It might be a little slow to open when you first boot up (6, 7, 8 bounces on the dock), but after that everything starts right up. It should make too much of a difference, but since Office is running through emulation the 2GB will help.
(4) The wirless in an MBP is the same as in every other computer: 802.11B/G compatible. It'll work with any router out there; no need to go out and buy an AirPort router from Apple if you already have one. Then again, at $200, I don't know that I'd ever buy an AirPort. A plain old Linksys for $50 should work just fine...assuming you even need a router.
(5) You said it. The 15" is nice, but the 17" is nicer. The 17" has a few other goodies (a few extra USB ports, a FireWire800 port, an extra FireWire400 port), but unless you have a ton of devices you're plugging in, or an external hard drive you're constantly reading from/writing to, they're a non-factor. If you wanna save some money, go with the 15"; if you wanna live a little, the 17".
(6) On the laptop itself, that shouldn't be a problem. You can get yourself a nice 15" with AppleCare for right around what you're looking to spend. Of course, depending on what addons and software you get (MS Office, a bag, mouse, etc.), you're probably looking at closer to $3000.
(7) You hit it right on the head. There's really not much you need to do. Turn on the firewall built into OS X; make sure your router is secure (MAC address filtering, strong pass code, WPA2 encryption); and make sure you change your passwords every so often (every month or two should be more than sufficient). While it's not entirely necessary, based on your line of work it, it would probably be wise to get yourself an external hard drive (HDD) onto which you can backup your files. A MyBook from Western Digital wouldn't be a bad idea. If you go with the 17", get the Pro edition for higher speeds with FireWire 800. If you go with the 15", get the Premium. And, to save some money, buy through Amazon.com
Some suggestions on what you should get to compliment your MBP:
The first is a nice bag to carry it in. I personally like Marware's black italian leather CEO Milano. But if you're not into leather or don't want to spend that kind of money (why money would be a problem when buying a $3000 computer, I don't know...), then check out Brenthaven. They have some quality bags with plenty of storage for all your gadgets and whatnot.
The second thing you needs is AppleCare. While I personally find it ridiculous that a person who just bought a $3000 computer doesn't get at least a years worth of tech support, AppleCare is well worth the money. It extends your tech over the phone tech support from 90 days to 3 years and your warranty from 1 year to 3.
Apple's tech support is second to none (and they actually speak english ), and the extended warranty is a must. The best part of all is being able to take your computer to the Genius Bar in an Apple store. There's nothing quite like being able to walk into a store and have a living, breathing person help you. No crappy music while your put on hold, no having follow directions over a phone... you just give your Mac to a genius and let them do all the work.
If for whatever reason you're unsure about getting AppleCare, you don't have to buy it right now. So long as you buy it and register your MBP within the initial warranty period (1 year), you're all set. So, feel free to try out AppleCare under your current warranty before you drop $300 or so on the extended AppleCare.
The final thing that I recommend you buy, especially if you plan on having this baby on your lap, is a cooler. That is, a laptop tray with fans to provide some extra cooling capacity. Your MBP (or any other laptop/portable, for that matter) sits on top of, or attaches to, the cooler and provides power to the fans via USB cable. I don't know that you'll be getting any burns if you use this thing on your lap without a cooler (or any kind of tray, for that matter), but it certainly isn't comfortable.
As for particular brands/models, I can't really give you one. These things are put out by a lot of smaller companies, and come in so many different variations that it's hard to keep track of. For example, the website I bought mine from no longer exists and I've yet to see anything else that quite resembles what I have. That's not to say these things aren't quality, but don't go looking for something from a name brand company. All I can say to do is search on Google or Froogle for laptop cooler. On the bright side, you'll find plenty of coolers to choose from and you'll have something totally unique.
Well, that covers the three musts. There other various things that you may or may not like...maybe a Marware protection pack or a mouse...but it's really a matter of preference from here on out. Personally, the only other thing I'm getting is a mouse. I've never been a fan of trackpads. I much prefer using a mouse, especially if I'm at a desk writing a paper or doing research. But that's just me...
Anyway, I hope this helps. Good luck, and enjoy your MBP!
MBP: 17" Matte; 7200rpm 100GB HDD; 2gig RAM Mac OS X (10.4.7) -
Brand new to the Mac World and NEED SOME HELP with startup disk issues
Hello everyone. I am a new Mac user and I purchased my mac on ebay. It's an iMac that came with tiger 10.4.11. I wanted to get a fresh start on the computer, since the person who had it before me did not erase all of his stuff. I didn't know what to do so I got a startup disk/install disk off ebay also. When I go to install it says "software cannot be installed on this computer." Before I bought the software, I had called the apple store and they said it should be fine to buy any install software to put on the computer. If I could get any help it would be appreciated. I had read previous threads that I should hold down c when I start up (didn't work) or that I should select archive or erase and install (I never got these options when I went to install).
A warm welcome to the Discussions!
What iMac is it? I only ask as the Retail Tiger CD/DVDs don't work on IntelMacs, only PPC, (G3, G4, G5 Macs).
Sorry what you were told by the Apple Store, but if it's a Gray CD/DVD then it is Machine specific as Neil stated.
Sooo, what exact iMac is it, and what does it say on the CD/DVD?
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