Audio out- Without noise??

I'm having a miserable time trying to get music from my Mac Pro to my home sound system.
I tried digital - and I get loud humming.
I triedaudio out, and I get mostly the same thing.
I bought a modulator to reduce such hum. It helped but I still get annoying humming.
Can anyone tell me why this simple thing is not working?

I have a ground loop isolator. It still hums.
I am now trying using the digital out port, connecting in to my optical digital in on my stereo receiver. That works better. However, the thing about that which dives me nuts is there is no way to control the sound from the mac without going into system preferences, sound, and using that panel. Even just to change the volumn. This is very clumsy. Any ideas of a way around that?
noodl<<Font face="BlizzardD">ehead»

Similar Messages

Audio out - without a hum.

When I connect a audio cable to a stereo receiver, I get a pretty loud humming noise. I had the ame problem with my G4. Now, with this new MacPro, I see that I have options for audio out. Digital/optical and audio line out. Does anyone have a suggestion for the best way to go - to connect to my home stereo system - and not get the humming noise?
Thanks.
nÔÔdle--hëad

This is a common complaint, I think. My MP I don't know about (just shipped today), but with my G4 MDD the line-out is a bit noisy, particularly with Nap mode enabled (as it usually is, keeps those fans down a bit and really helps the temperatures)- that always causes distortion on my setup. I've found my Griffin iMic to give somewhat better results, nice clean sound all the time. Digital-out I imagine would be even better, but I don't know how well isolated it is from other system noise (like the iMic is on USB).

Audio-out hiss/noise problems

There seem to be a problem with the audio output on the new MacBook Aluminium. There is A LOT of noise/hiss on the audio output, especially when using low-impendence headphones. The noise/hiss is the same regardless of volume. If you search the web, you will quickly find other discussion boards concerning this problem.
To test for this:
1. Find a pair of headphones.
2. Check their impendence.
*Be sure to play some sort of audio in order to activate the audio card. If you just plug your headphones in, there will not be any noise/hiss because the audio is disabled. Some report that after 20 seconds of no audio, the audio will deactivate again.
This does not seem to occur on high-impendence headphones or stereos.
I think it is important to inform Apple about this problem and hope for some sort of fix. If it could be fixed with a firmware update it would be great!
I am not aware if the new 15-inch MacBook Aluminium is also affected by this problem.
A workaround for this problem is to BUY a volume control you place between the audio output and the headphones. However, I do not think this ought to be necessary on a $1,299 computer.

I have a ground loop isolator. It still hums.
I am now trying using the digital out port, connecting in to my optical digital in on my stereo receiver. That works better. However, the thing about that which dives me nuts is there is no way to control the sound from the mac without going into system preferences, sound, and using that panel. Even just to change the volumn. This is very clumsy. Any ideas of a way around that?
noodl<<Font face="BlizzardD">ehead»

How do i disable audio out timeout on a macbook pro causing noise on external amplifier, without having a silent .wav playing in infinite loop?

After updating to Mavericks I have this problem. From what I guess, my audio out (either the signal, or the entire soundcard) cuts power after being idle for about 30 seconds. This results in a static noise when connected to my external amplifier. From various forums, dating back to 2007/8 I can see this is not a new problem. The only workaround is playing an empty .wav sound on infinite loop (either by using a terminal command, or by a third-pary app which does this for you), preventing the audio out from timing out and cutting power. This seems to me to be an undisirable proceeding. Even if minimal, it uses extra power and memory. Is there any way to prevent the sound card from timing out like this?

Ok. I tried disconnecting the charger from my macbook and that actually helped. The noise is now so low it is hardly audible, so I guess it has to do with a ground loop. But still, even when hardly audible it still only happens after 30 seconds of idle time. Is that because my theory about a timeout is correct, or is there some other reason for this? This used to just happen when my macbook went on standby (sleep), but now it happens allready after 30 seconds, so even though it may be a loop, it wasn't like this before. I'd love to understand what is different now.

IMac Audio-Out Noise

If I plug headphones into my iMac's audio-out jack, a high pitched electric buzzing noise can be heard.
It starts to give me a headache after a while, so I've been avoiding using headphones.
I don't have AppleCare anymore, so taking it to Apple would cost $$.
I'd like to do anything I can to fix it before having to take it to Apple - any ideas?

Hi Colin
Here are a few things to try:
1. If you open and then close GarageBand it will reset your iMac's Audio MIDI setup to default.
2. Test that set headphones with another device like an iPod or portable radio/CD player.
3. Push a little harder to make sure that the headphone jack is fully seated.
4. Try a different set of headphones.
Dennis

Pop Noise from Audio Out While Using iTunes 9.0.1

I have a black MacBook with Leopard 10.5.8 and iTunes 9.0.1. I have a a pair of computer speakers plugged to the MacBook's audio out minijack. Every time I run iTunes to play my music everything goes fine until I stop the music (you know with the space bar or the stop button). 30 seconds after I stop the music a loud pop noise comes up and stops, as if some electrical device was receiving a charge of electricity. When I play music back again on iTunes, the same noise comes up again with the music and goes away immediately while the music continues all right.
This is what I have done so far:
Change my energy saving parameter to several different configurations (perhaps the hard drive stopping when unused was the cause) but none fix it.
Turned off Airport...did not fix it
I timed the pop noise and it happens exactly 30 seconds after I stop my music on iTunes and then again 30 seconds after music has been stopped unless I start playing the music back again and the pop noise sounds again.
Any help would be appreciated as I use my MacBook to play music sequences for my band (I am the drummer) so the darn noises come through our PA system (and I also tried my small computer speakers and it does the same thing).
Thanks,

I spent a good amount of time reading several discussions. Apple is aware of this issue but no solution as of yet. The popping noise is "normal" behavior and happens because of how the sound system is programmed in the computer.
The solution (sorry for the bad news) is to not use the audio out minijack at all. Instead, get an audio interface that connects to your USB port and then route the output signal from your audio interface to your speakers, headphones or PA system. The popping noise will not sound. I tested it several times.
If the only cable you have is a minijack male type then go to Radio Shack and get adapters. I had to get me an adapter that takes two RCA males and converts them to a female minijack type.
Good luck.

Ultrabase for x201 / x200 audio out noise - lenovo dont want to fix - please check yours

Hi,
I own x201 with ultrabase for a year. From the beginning I tried get Lenovo to fix audio output on ultrabase. When connected on AC the sound from audio out is full of noise (even when music is muted), what makes it unusable. When the AC is unplugged, the noise is smaller, but still there. So I need to use audio out from the x201 even when docked.
As I had many other problems with x201 I have been in service 3times already. Anyway, regarding this issue they final verdict is that ultrabase is not a HI-FI and it works as planned. Maybe is not a issue if you plug just small PC speakers, but anything else (including headphones) its useless.
Whats the point of audio out in docking station which is useless?
Can somebody from Lenovo confirm that its normal that ultrabase audio output is noisy ?
Can other owners check if they ultrabase output is noisy with some headphones/hi-fi ?
Thanks in advance
Tomas

do you use a grounded power plug? audio noise usually means that the ultrabase has a bad connection to the laptop's dock connector. Or that the ultrabase audio connector/lines are receiving electrical noises from other surrounding devices.
With my Ultrabase X200 the noise will go away when all the usb ports on the ultrabase is unplugged.
Regards,
Jin Li
May this year, be the year of 'DO'!
I am a volunteer, and not a paid staff of Lenovo or Microsoft

Audio in is working, but no audio out on internal speakers (with or without headphones.)

Audio in is working, but no audio out on internal speakers (with or without headphones.)

Reset PRAM. http://support.apple.com/kb/PH18761
Reset SMC. http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
Choose the appropriate method.
Best.

IMac Audio Out Has Background Noise

I have an iMac 3.06gHz Intel Core 2 Duo with all updates. If I use the headphone output or an external DAC there is the same noticeable digtial noise in the audio out. Scrolling the windows is audible and the noise changes with the scroll bar and other activities. The noise is mostly low-pitched. Sounds like an interal DAC that is passing clock signals or just under-engineered.

Try running a
SMC RESET
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
Shut down the computer.
Unplug the computer's power cord and ALL peripherals.
Wait 15 seconds.
Attach the computers power cable.
Wait another 5 seconds and press the power button to turn on the computer.
It is the 5 second timing that initiates the reset.

Interference/background noise from audio-out port

I've connected my audio-out using a Monster cable from the headphone jack into the audio ports of a flat-screen TV. There's some kind of interference or background static noise. It almost seems to correspond to activity on the computer: if I'm loading a web page or the hard drive spins, the frequency of the static increases. It's rather annoying since I've connected it to watch Netflix and DVDs on the TV.
Any thoughts on what causes it or if there's anything I can do to stop it?
Thanks!

This sounds very much like the problem people have when using separate displays and audio amplifiers. I would try the Radio Shack audio isolator transformer. If that works, this setup also has the ground loop problem discussed in other threads.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062214

How do i replace video without putting all of audio out of sync?

hello,
i am trying to replace a video clip with an alternative clip while keeping the original audio, but everytime i select a clip to replace, it does so but puts the audio out of sync starting from where i inserted the clip...help!
Thanks,
steven

First, go into iMovie/Preferences and make sure that the Advanced Tools are enabled.
Next drag and drop the alternate clip from the Event to the frame in the project where you want it to start. A pop-up menu will come up. Choose "Cutaway".

Question about Audio line-in/optical in/Audio out/optical out

I have a late 2009 27" iMac (v3.06 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo). I note that on Apple's description of the rear ports, what I thought were simply headphone (Audio Out) and microphone (Audio In) jacks are described as:
1. Headphone/optical digital [S/PDIF] audio out:
"Line/Headphone output
"The headphone output is automatically selected for audio output if no external S/PDIF optical digital output device is detected. The headphone output supports a stereo data stream at bit depths of 16, 20, or 24 bits per sample and at sample rates of 44.1 kHz, 48 kHz, or 96 kHz. The headphone output volume can be adjusted from 0.0 dB to -64 dB..."
"The headphone output is automatically selected for audio output if no external S/PDIF optical digital output device is detected. The headphone output supports a stereo data stream at bit depths of 16, 20, or 24 bits per sample and at sample rates of 44.1 kHz, 48 kHz, or 96 kHz. The headphone output volume can be adjusted from 0.0 dB to -64 dB."
and
2. Audio line-in/optical in:
"Line input
"The analog line input operates independently from all other audio input ports and is always available. The line input supports recording at bit depths of 16, 20, or 24 bits per sample and at sample rates of 44.1 kHz, 48 kHz, or 96 kHz. Audio recorded from the line input is presented as a stereo data stream. You can adjust the line input gain from -16 dB to +30 dB..."
"The digital audio input has the following electrical characteristics (nominal specifications), based on input of a 1 kHz sine wave at 0 dBFS input level, 24-bit sample depth, and 44.1 kHz sample rate (unless otherwise specified below):
FSI – input sample rates: 44.1 kHz, 48 kHz, or 96 kHz
Bits per sample: 16, 20, or 24
Signal-to-noise ratio (SNR): >130 dB
Total harmonic distortion + noise (THD+N): <-130 dB (0.0003%)
Sound output/digital audio output port"
While, as an Olde School audiophile guy (62, and I still have vinyl!), I generally understand the gist of all this, I'm not at all hip to what S/PDIF optical digital output and/or digital audio input can do for me. So my questions are:
1. Can somebody please wise me up to the usage(s) of these optical inputs and outputs on the iMac?
2. The Apple description says,under "Line/Headphone output":
"PCM: 16, 20, or 24 bits per sample at sample rates of 44.1 kHz, 48 kHz, or 96 kHz
AC-3: 16 bits per sample at sample rates of 44.1 kHz, 48 kHz, 88.2 kHz, 96 kHz, 176.4 kHz, or 192 kHz"
and under "Line input
"The analog line input operates independently from all other audio input ports and is always available. The line input supports recording at bit depths of 16, 20, or 24 bits per sample and at sample rates of 44.1 kHz, 48 kHz, or 96 kHz. Audio recorded from the line input is presented as a stereo data stream. You can adjust the line input gain from -16 dB to +30 dB."
How -- where -- do I adjust these bit depth and sample rates?
Thanks for your help!
Bart

Thanks for the info. Turns out there's an even easier way to do it than using the "Audio Midi Setup": through the prefs in the latest (and probably some previous) version of VLC, which is currently Version 1.0.2 Goldeneye (Intel 64bit).
Now if we could only get full native resolution (or at least 1080p) HDMI input into the Mini-DPs of our 2560 x 1440-capable 27" iMacs and actually have it display something WAY better than 720p (half the resolution of which the 27" iMac is capable) to which Apple limited it, without having to buy a third-party $270.00 HDMI-to Mini-DPP converter and scaler. Call me crazy, but it seems kinda silly to have to pay another $300 to buy a device that will scale the 27" iMac's resolution back up to a measly 1080p, let alone its native 2560 x 1440. But, as the
As a side note, can anyone tell me -- perhaps the elusive and chimerical, but omniscient and omnipotent "communityhosts" of Apple.com -- why, in my original post in this thread, the phrase "1. Headphone/optical digital S/PDIF audio out" had the acronym "S/PDIF" stricken through, like it was a particularly egregious Anglo-Saxonism? Wikipedia defines the acronym thus: "S/PDIF is a data link layer protocol and a set of physical layer specifications for carrying digital audio signals between devices and components over either optical or electrical cable. The name stands for Sony/Philips Digital Interconnect Format."
If I have inadvertently broken another arcane, abstruse, and/or inscrutable canon of the rules (http://discussions.apple.com/help.jspa) governing what may or not be asked or said on these avowedly "user-driven" discussions, allow me to beg for forgiveness beforehand, pleading ignorance, and ask that Apple's "community hosts" or administrators would expand upon and make very clear, in their "Apple Discussions Terms of Use," a comprehensive list of terms, subjects, lines of discussion, references to certain items, products, people, policies, etc. that are simply disallowed in the forum.
It is extremely depressing and frustrating to spend however long it takes -- and it takes ME a long time, as I have a 60-year-ingrained tendency towards verbosity -- to ask and post a question or message, only to have the message never even posted to the forum, but, without any sort of consultation with me so that I may learn from, and correct, my errors, uncaringly consigned to the illimitable void by hands to whom there is no appeal or orison.
It seems unfair.

Pulseaudio & tsched=0,random whitenoise since change to HDMI audio out

Hi all
I had a fully working mythtv box with pulseaudio. Some time ago, I remember I had to add tsched=0 to /etc/pulse/default.pa like in the following line
load-module module-udev-detect tsched=0
because I had random white noise when skipping sections in music/video. I used analog out of my Creative Labs SB Live! at the time. Now I have a Nvidia GT 520 with HDMI out, connected it and changed some settings in alsamixer, pavucontrol as well as mythtv in order to have audio out through hdmi to my TV and it worked.
But since then I have again those random white noise issues. I start watching a recording and when I skip for 30sek it might still play normal, but randomly and with very high probability like every third or second time I skip again there is no sound anymore, but a very strong noise blasting out of my TV speakers. It is nearly unbearable, so loud.
So basically it is the same thing I could earlier work around with the tsched=0 parameter, but after searching hours in google I could not find anything better/else than setting this parameter which I already have since very long time.
Does someone have an idea where to start searching for the culprit?
TIA

Ok, so I have had some time to devote to this. Since this was a a new install of Arch I decided to just reinstall again to wipe out anything that I might have added to cause further compication to the solution. I am sure I am missing something obvious as aplay shows the card:
$ aplay -l
**** List of PLAYBACK Hardware Devices ****
card 0: NVidia [HDA NVidia], device 3: NVIDIA HDMI [NVIDIA HDMI]
Subdevices: 1/1
Subdevice #0: subdevice #0
card 0: NVidia [HDA NVidia], device 7: NVIDIA HDMI [NVIDIA HDMI]
Subdevices: 1/1
Subdevice #0: subdevice #0
card 0: NVidia [HDA NVidia], device 8: NVIDIA HDMI [NVIDIA HDMI]
Subdevices: 1/1
Subdevice #0: subdevice #0
card 0: NVidia [HDA NVidia], device 9: NVIDIA HDMI [NVIDIA HDMI]
Subdevices: 1/1
Subdevice #0: subdevice #0
To restate, my system is:
MB - Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R (onboard audio is disabled)
Graphics card - GTX 470
LED HDTV - Vizio XVT473SV
My Alsa-info output is here:
www.alsa-project.org/db/?f=04cdccbef389c4663f9db42d4d4a754321bf3fc3
I have tried numerous howtos, tutorials and posts to attempt to solve this issue, but no luck. Here are a couple of them:
http://newyork.ubuntuforums.org/showthr … ?t=1565479
http://wiki.xbmc.org/index.php?title=HO … ,_or_GT240
A couple of things worth noting:
All four channels are Mmuted (MM) each time I boot within alsamixer. There are no sliders on the four channels. They are either muted or not.
I have the HDMI input in HDMI1 on the TV, but I can move it to another if needed.
Since I am really unsure what would be needed beyond the alsa-info output I will hold off throwing irrelivant system logs and output, Please let me know what information would be helpful and I will post it.
I would really like to get this solved, so anyone willing to give a shot at helping me solve it would be most appreciated.
TIA

Audio out from HDMI port?

I have connected my TV and Booklet via a standard HDMI cable. This same HDMI cable works fine with my DVD player. When I use it with my booklet, only video seems to be sent to the TV via the HDMI cable. Is the HDMI out port supporting only video, or audio as well? I understand the booklet supports HDMI 1.2, which should support an audio profile, as far as I know.
Let me know if you have been able to get audio to work over HDMI.
thanks,
John

I found your discussion attempting to find the answer to the same question.
I won 5 of these things at auction and wanted HDMI to be a selling point
I researched far and wide and now I think I have the answer now.
I had to reload the OS and all the drivers for all 5 units
I read some of the replies to this topic and with some people saying that they had audio and I didn't, I felt that either I was crazy or someone is not truthful. so i had a thought ,
after about the 3rd unit I tried to just try to hook it up to a TV bare without Nokia updated software
What do you know, it worked.
So I have come to the conclusion based upon using both units after testing them with and without the update, is with the stock driver provided, you will get the audio from the HDMI port; if you update the software from the updater(which I noticed it says the driver is MANDATORY)
You will not.
There is a plus and minus on both occassions
With the graphics driver update you can scale your video once hook to an HDTV to full 1080p HD; but you wont get any audio (at least for now)
Without the update you will get the audio out , however you will only get the same native resolution as the netbook 720p
So contemplate which feature is more important you and make your choice.
Higher picture quality(full HD) with the driver yet I need 2 cable (HDMI AND 2.5 to RCA)
OR lower resolution720p but audio as well
I hope this helps but i see my next challenge for both you and is to see if we can roll back the driver if we want audio over HDMI.

Trouble running DVI video and HDMI audio out of 6950

Twin frozr iii 6950 2gb (X2 crossfire)
Asus VG236 Monitor
Windows 7
MSI P67A-G43 Motherboard
Yamaha RX-V371 Receiver
I have two Twin Frozr iii 2gb 6950 cards and am attempting to use the HDMI on the video card solely for 5.1 audio out to my receiver while using video through the DVI jack of the same card directly to my monitor without success.
-Audio functions if I run the HDMI from the card into my receiver, then out to my Asus VG236 monitor.
-Audio functions when I run from the card to my receiver then out to my plasma tv.
-Audio functions if I have the DVI run directly to the Asus VG236 monitor and HDMI to the receiver then plasma tv (only in dual display and the tv must be on for audio to function this way. If I turn the tv off even though the receiver is still on the audio stops working and windows sound lists the 'AMD HDMI Output' as not plugged in).
-Audio even fuctions when I run DVI to the monitor and HDMI to the receiver, then out to the HDMI port on the same monitor but the monitor will only run at 60hz this way even when DVI is selected on the monitor, as though it defaults to the HDMI when dvi and hdmi are both plugged into the monitor.
And if i run the hdmi to the receiver "HDMI IN" port without using the "HDMI OUT" port from the receiver to anything, like my tv or monitor, the sound doesn't work and in windows sound the "AMD HDMI Output" is listed as "not plugged in" .
I purchased this monitor for the true 120hz capabilities, the HDMI on this monitor doesn't support 120hz, the maximum is 60hz. DVI is required to run at 120hz. I don't see any option in windows sound settings or CCC to resolve this.
I have also tried disabling onboard audio in BIOS with no effect.
For now i'm running the audio out my MOBO jack through an optical cable to the receiver but optical only supports 2.1 sound.
Any suggestions you can offer would be appreciated, thank you

bump,
Anybody?

Audio out- Without noise??

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