Auto-Blacks in LR4?

In LR3 and previous there was a little trick, commonly used, to only auto-tone the blacks slider. Is there any way to get that in LR4 (2012 process)? I've been trying...
For LR3 and previous you would open a preset file with a text editor and delete the "shadows= " line and change the "AutoShadows= False" to true. It's the only auto setting I used in LR3, and it did a really great job.

Auto Sync adjusts them all to the same value, not values tuned to each individual image like was capable in LR3.
I have tried a number of different things in text editing, including performing the same modifications to AutoShadows2012, no luck.
The only method I've found so far is to apply an auto-tone preset that auto-tones all the basic panel tone sliders, then apply a preset that has fixed values assigned for all those sliders except blacks, which leaves only blacks auto-toned. I'll do that for now, but it's certainly a hinderance to workflow compared with one preset that did it all.

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My iPhone4 auto black screen

My iPhone4 auto black screen and goes off,
I need connect to pc or a charger to restart my phone!
* iphone 4 on ISO 5.1.1(9B208)
* no jailbroken
* did a restore to factory stetting ( but the same thing, it blacks out)
crash report:
* Boot faults :rst vdd_under
* Boot stage :255
* Boot app : 0
PLS help

The same for me: iPhone 4, latest OS, lots of crashes everyday and crash report with "rst vdd_under" - whatever this means. Started two weeks ago. I went to the Apple-Store and they told me, that it would be too expensive to repair a nearly three year old phone and that I should better wait for the iPhone 5S or 6 or whatever the name of the next iPhone will be. :-/
Because I don't want to buy an iPhone 5 so shortly before the new iPhone I will switch to the Samsung Galaxy S4 or HTC One next week. Sad, but I can't work with a phone which crashes while I'm calling someone. Who knows: Maybe I'll come back to the iPhone 7 or 8 or something...

Auto Fix in LR4

Does LR4 have a similar function as PSE10 Auto Quick Fix?

Presets do store absolute numerical values for adjustments, still so in LR4?
Given the image-adaptive nature of the ranges in LR4 absolute presets can hardly achieve what they did in LR3?
For auto it is worth while to test shift+doubleclick on individual sliders. You do not need to always apply the full auto mode (strg u).
I find exposure often best set manually by myself, and use the auto on some or all other basic sliders.
Cornelia

Change preferences for Auto black/white point in Camera RAW

Hey guys,
By hold shift and clicking on the slider for whites Camera RAW automatically sets the white point, same goes for the black. However, it always gets pushed to 255 (white).
Is there some way that you can edit this preference?

I don't know, but somebody may know for sure over in the camera raw forum:
https://forums.adobe.com/community/cameraraw

Change preferences for Auto blacks/whites

Hey guys, By hold shift and clicking on the slider for whites Camera RAW automatically sets the white point, same goes for the black. However, it always gets pushed to 255 (white). Is there some way that you can edit this preference?

Wow. I never knew that!
Doing the same on Contrast changes it too, but to what?

LR4 auto recovery - can it be switched off?

Is there any way to turn off auto-recovery in LR4 2012 process engine? When shooting on white seamless, I gradually bring up the background lights until I see the raw file just blowing out as I want it, at my shooting aperture. With LR4 and auto-recovery - using this method of 'metering' if you like - I'm adding 2-3 extra stops of light than I would expect before this happens, which then gives me wrap around and flare problems. I'd like to take back control of this, so I'm not guessing where my pure white is any more. Thanks.

I know where you're coming from, having shot and processed my own film and print images starting in 1970. I also understand what you're trying to do, but disagree with your approach on two points:
1) Use of the raw processor histogram to determine raw clipping.
2) Expecting the raw processor to understand that you want a specific area to be 100% clipped. Normally this is NOT the case.
For #1: The following link explains how you can set your camera to make its histogram accurately display raw clipping. It's called Universal White Balance (UniWB) and once you've established the proper in-camera settings you can save them to a "custom function" dial setting (C1, etc.). When set properly the camera's preview image will have an ugly green cast, but will correctly indicate highlight clipping. By using a custom function for these settings you can easily switch between normal camera preview mode and UniWB mode.
http://www.guillermoluijk.com/tutorial/uniwb/index_en.htm
You can find camera specific UniWB information by doing a Google search on uniwb + camera model, for example uniwb D800.
For #2: Use the top-down approach for setting PV2012's Basic panel controls with your white clipped images:
1) Exposure: Set for natural looking 'midtones.'
2) Contrast: I find it easier to adjust after making all of the other settings, but rarely use more than ±25.
3) Highlights: Set negative to maximize the highlight detail against the backdrop, such as hair.
4) Shadows: Set positive to the same value as Highlights works well (EX- +20 with -20 Highlights).
5) Whites: This is where you reestablish the backdrop white clipping level that PV2012's autohighlight recovery removed. (Holding the ALT key down lets you see the clipping real-time.)
6) Blacks: Set negative to establish the desired black clipping level (Holding the ALT key down lets you see the clipping real-time.)
7) Clarity: For models a slightly negative -Clarity setting can help to bring out highlights in hair, and nicely softens the image while maintaining detail.
8) Vibrance & Saturation: Don't be afraid to use these together with "opposing" (+-, -+) settings to help correct specific colors that are over or under saturated.
We haven't even touched on the proper Camera Profile for this subject, which affects the overall appearance of the image.
Once you've established the proper Basic panel settings for a particular lighting setup, I suggest saving it as a Develop preset with all of the Basic panel settings and any other settings you made that deviate from your LR Develop default settings. You can then easily apply the Develop preset to images from a previous or future assignment.

LR4 Install. My Images are on External USB

HI
During a clean install of LR4 it comes up with an "Import" dialogue box for importing into LR4.
However my Pics are on an external usb drive and the LR3 Cat I saved to usb.
Whats the process to install this type of setup
Thanks in Advance Carlo

Start from your OS file browser (explorer in windows, finder in mac), point to the LR3-catalog file on your USB and choose to open it with LR4.
It should get auto-converted to lr4.
Then close LR4 and move all created catalog stuff onto your USB. Open the catalog from there again and ensure that all catalog settings fit to the location on your USB-drive, same as you did previously for running LR3 from this drive.

Zeroed Defaults vs. Zeroed RAW File?

It occurs to me that, while the new 0 values are a welcome change for the defaults (more intuitive than what appeared arbitray before), there is a limitation: how do I display a zeroed, uncorrected RAW file? The LR4 zero'ing would appear to be similar to the previous LR defaults (allowing for changes in the process version), just with a more logical starting point; there is still an inherent adjustment, no? But what if I want to start at the flat RAW file. This would include contrast adjustments at the tonal curve (is the new linear the old medium?).

MadManChan2000 wrote:
My claim is that an image that looks pretty good to your eyes is the right starting point.
But one has to know why that image looks "pretty good". If one does not and is not able to get it too look really good then the reason could be that one is not aware about the fact that the starting point already contained some edits that one would not have made this way initially.
This issue obviously becomes worse, if the starting point is adaptive, i.e., if LR4 choses some initial settings depending on the image (-> e.g., auto black point). Then undoing those initial adjustments becomes even harder.
Earlier you wrote "I don't think there's anything special or magical about the unrendered scene-referred state, from the point of view of adjusting an image." With all due respect, but that does not mean that others would not benefit from being able to start from a truly clean slate. Of course an image rendered with truly neutral develop settings will look bad. But one then knows which adjustments are required, because one isn't fooled by some unknown default adjustments which in the worst case are even depending on the individual image. One then does not waste time trying to make the image look good by going a wrong route. One does not waste time by trying to find the true neutral starting point, i.e., undoing the auto/implicit adjustments without any way of knowing what they were and with what intensity they have been applied.
On the one hand I can see how the new approach is meant to be helpful. On the other hand, I'm strongly arguing for making it possible for power users to disable any auto adjustments and see what is actually happening rather than be given an oversimplified picture (e.g., be shown a "linear" curve where the real curve is anything but linear).
If no default settings work for every user, why not use a truly neutral default? It will work for a subset, just as any other. You'll get the "My image previews change from 'great' to 'flat' looking during imports" comment with non-neutral defaults anyhow. You can make canned non-neutral defaults available, but let users see in what way they are not neutral, i.e., show a "medium contrast" curve instead of (implicitly) pretending there is no adjustment to the tone curve.
Finally, if the initial motivation was alignment with JPG defaults, why not make the JPG defaults non-zero? If you must lie to the user about setting values, why not give the RAW shooters the true picture ("zero" means zero) and the JPG shooters the lie? This way, the lie wouldn't be as bad because a JPG will have some adjustments baked in. They will not correspond to the non-zero default values LR would be showing but at least there would be some correspondence. I personally would prefer to let "zero" mean "zero" everywhere and would not care that JPG defaults are different to RAW defaults, but if you must lie, I reckon the JPG shooters would mind less.
P.S.: The same discussion is taking place here: http://forums.adobe.com/thread/946966?tstart=0

My phone screen no longer locks when I put my phone to my cheek when answering or making a call making it so I constantly press buttons like hold or mute or even end. I've hung up on my boss several times. How do I fix it!

Please help my figure out how to make it so that my phone screen will lock when I put it to my check. The auto black out stopped working not to long after I downloaded the ios7

Is the phone in a case? Try taking it out of the case. If that doesn't work, then your proximity sensor is broken. You'll need to bring your phone to Apple for evaluation.

Problem with 3GS after updating IOS 5.0.1

My iPhone 3Gs auto black screen, I need to plug it into power connector to use it again.
In the diagnostics I have the following report
This is the report :
Incident Identifier: 027C9F9C-4FA2-48B1-B9FE-E008DE5E3898
CrashReporter Key: 7ab20f1de91d725339636ba227de7cd8498e19e6
Date: 2012-01-24 21:10:16 +0100
Reset count: 0
Boot failure count: 1
Boot faults: rst vdd_under
Boot stage: 80
Boot app: 0
At the moment of black screen I had a battery of 33 %. I have reset my iPhone to factory setting and configured as a new iPhone without backup.
Can you give me help for this please? Is it a bug of the battery?

What kind of Support Community is it, when I get no support?

Correcting white balance and exposure

Does FCE offer good ways to fix bad white balance and underexposure?
I just tested the video filter for underexposure and color and they improve things are just pathetic compared to an edit an editor friend did in full Final Cut. So maybe FCE can do better and I just missed or did not see what to do?

You would probably do better with the 2-way color corrector than what you originally did. The 3-way in FCP is a better tool but the 2-way is what comes with FCE.
In general, with the 2-way color corrector you should start adjustments this way:
Click the Auto Contrast button once
Then do Auto Black followed by Auto White (one click each)
Then adjust the Mids if necessary.
After all that, play with the color balance..
To better white balance your shot it often helps to crank the Saturation slider all the way up, then use the eyedropper tool at the lower left of the Balance wheel to select something in your shot that should be truly white (white, not necessarily bright). Since the saturation slider is all the way up, any adjustments you make will be exaggeraged but that helps you get it right. You can make further adjustments to get the whites as neutral as possible and then slide the saturation back down to a more normal level. It takes some noodling, but it can be done.

Shadow/Highlight Flickers when layered

Last post I saw was ArtsForHearts 12/8/09 having the same problem. It seems as though the use of the Fx Shadow/Highlight on two layers above each other with different settings make one of them flicker. If all the values are the same you are good to go. I like to use it to give a better look to talking heads where the lighting was not the best. I track matte an area over a face with a little Shadow/Highlight. Or multiple layers are used to airbrush zits and enhance the lighting look. It has to be a software problem. Anybody use Shadow/Highlight this way and get flicker and wierd shaded boxes?

You are entitled to your opinion, regarding the forums. I happen to disagree completely, but then that is MY opinion, and is not really germane here.
encouraging that maintenance by users, merging threads, marking solutions
Let's take a look at these:
Non-MOD's cannot maintain the forums. The only exception is that several Adobe employees have MOD consoles, and CAN maintain the forums, but they are not officially MOD's.
They do merge and also branch threads, and quite often.
Only the OP can mark a thread as "Answered," or award points. Even MOD's, and Adobe employees cannot do that.
This forum has NONE of those virtues, and Adobe looks lame as a result despite their disclaimers. So criticism is absolutely appropriate, notwithstanding the potentially good intentions of people who may or may not be volunteering their time with zero compensation of any kind.
Fair enough, though still your personal opinion. However, these product forums are not the appropriate place to point up the issues with the forums. There is a special location for that, the Forum Comments forum, which is fairly active, and is frequented by Adobe-Admin (John C.), who basically runs the forums. John C. is not a MOD, but I feel that he has a MOD console. Jochem van Dieten is the MOD. Any complaints that you have with the forums is best posted there, as they will be seen by people, who run the forums.
Note: sometime in Sept., if things hold, there will be new forum software, though I am not sure if the changes will impress you. Only time will tell.
I'm not sure what the caption "Community Professional" means, though, for Mr. Bellune. Professionals get paid as far as I understand the term.
The Community Professional is a badge awarded to fhose, who have taken and passed either one of the ACA tests, or the ACE test, or the ACI exam. Jeff is a video professional, as producer, videographer, and editor, plus an author of still the best book on Adobe Encore. He is not paid by Adobe. He might get an Adobe baseball cap, or sweatshirt, from time to time, but he gets nothing for his volunteer work on all of the PrPro sub-forums, plus the Encore forum. Besides his real-life business, his tutorials, and his MOD duties, he is also a highly valued contributor to all of those forums.
Lastly, I have no idea why you and Jeff keeping linking over to the help file for the Shadow/Highlight effect. There is absolutely no bit of information there that could lead to any resolution of this issue. It's an example of why people can get so inflamed here; the regulars purport to offer answers (a) without thinking about whether it will actually address the problem; (b) defending Adobe as a starting point; and (c) taking the easiest path of citing already-established generalities.
While I cannot speak for Jeff, my intention was to make sure that you had all of the necessary details on the Effect, so that when you file the Feature Request/Bug Report, you are not reporting OE, regarding a setting. As that does not appear to be the case, then I would file that Bug Report, with all pertinant details. As I said, that will very likely land on Todd's desk, and he will then be able to comment directly on what is being done to fix the Bug.
This is a bug, plain and simple. It dates back years. I have submitted repeated bug reports. Many, many other users have too. This is a simple case of Adobe letting the issue slide. Like a billion others. One tiny example: ever wondered what those Auto Black Levels and Auto White Levels buttons do in the Fast Color Corrector? Absolutely nothing. That's been the case for several years now. Great job, Adobe.
Per your suggestion, I did Google this Bug, and other than the posts, to which you replied, plus one other, did not find the many, many others.
"Billions," are your normally prone to hyperbole, or is this a one-off instance?
If all of the people, who you claim have filed Bug Reports, if there is a fix, I find it so very odd, that Adobe has been dropping the ball, and since forever. I have seen Todd, Dennis, Kevin, Jeremy, Wil and others, jump onto Bugs, and usually within an update, or perhaps two, things get ironed out. I'd file that Bug Report for however many times it is now for you, and then watch those PrPro threads, to get Todd's comments on getting things fixed. Be sure to give all possible details, so that Adobe can duplicate the Bug, and then begin working on it. Unlike some frustrated speculation, I know that Adobe takes Bug reports very seriously.
Good luck, and let's hope that Adobe finally comes through for you.
Hunt

Iphone problem....hang

Hi...i come from Kota kinabalu...i buy iphone 4 at digi centre...but this iphone not very nice...when i play the game , app store or facebook ...this phone will auto black screen 5second after that will show apple logo hang...this will hang 15-30 minute...can somebody help me...how to fix this problem...why the i phone like this...

You might want to try the basic troubleshooting steps described in the User Guide, Appendix B: Restart, Reset, Restore

Some Major Annoyances in LR

Is there a way to get rid of the "Lightroom Presets" folder in the develop module. It always had useless crap in it and now it has double the useless crap. I would like to get to my presets in "Quick Develop" without having to dive down 100 meters. Also, could you please finally allow users to specify what gets auto adjusted with "Auto Tone Adjustment" personally I don't want the brightness, fill shadow or exposure touched. I just want the black point, contrast and highlight recovery. I have a preset that returns the brightness, exposure and fill shadow to their default values that I use every time after applying "Auto Tone" but of course I have to dive down through all the "Lightroom Presets" crap to get to it in Quick develop and/or right click.

Hey JFI,
Although I'm a little torked at you for not replying to my last post about customizing DNG profiles way back when, its good to see you're still alive and well...
I don't know how to get rid of the Lightroom default presets, but you can make auto presets that do whatever you want by creating a new preset that includes auto-toning then edit and delete the stuff you don't want. For instance here's mine for setting exposure and black point only:
s = {
    id = "D41322F9-4A16-4CE5-A46B-0F7FEFF3A503",
    internalName = "Auto Black and White Points",
    title = "Auto Black and White Points",
    type = "Develop",
    value = {
        settings = {
            AutoExposure = true,
            AutoShadows = true,
        uuid = "DFC80EC1-DF3D-40C3-A925-40AD59F03358",
    version = 0,
Rob

LR4 auto adjusting and messing up my RAW files since latest update? How do I turn this off?

HELP!
This latest LR4 update has somehow turned my RAW files into these wretched looking too bright, too yellow/orange, messes. I DO NOT have it set to auto import with any presets. I am not able to "reset" back to the usual dull, blah, flat looking RAW files I used to see in my LR4.
I also know for a fact that this is NOT how I took the images so the setting it's being imported with are not how I took the images. I know this because I've been shooting RAW-Jpeg since I noticed this and couldn't find where to turn this setting off, and my JPEGS look NOTHING like what this is importing them as.
It's importing them all, regardless of session as I've imported 10 different sessions lately, and ALL of them somehow change over from the dull images RAW files typically look like when I click on them to enlarge them to have Temp 5500, Tint, -11, Exp +70, Contrast +5, highlights -9, Shadows +9, Whites -98, Blacks -2, Clarity +19, Vib +10, Sat +19, and Orange +6 with Sharpening 81 and Noise Reduc at 4.
What's going on??? How do I reset them back to the original RAW settings and stop LR from importing every.single.session with the settings above? I have no Presets with these settings either!

Thank you to a fellow photog who answered my question via Facebook! Apparently one of my assistants mistakenly made adjustments in the Libray tab to the "Saved Prest" which saved her settings as "Custom" as well as saved the Whitebalance change she made there and the Tone Control section. I hit the "reset all" button under Tone Control and all is right with the world again! WHEW!

Auto-Blacks in LR4?

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