Auto Lenses Hiccup?

I'm currently running 6.1 because I wanted to have the ability to apply lense correction in camera raw.
I've gone through a number of images with both of my Nikon D3's where I click the enable lense correction
button and then have to choose the drop down arrow before anything happens to the image. I had assumed
this was the default way it worked until today. A friend who has a D700 wanted to know if he could
bring some images over and test them with the lense correction. After loading the images and opening
in camera raw as soon as the enable lense correction button was checked it automatically choose
the lense and applied a fix. Here's the funny part, he doesn't have any Nikkor lenses so I let him shoot
with my 14-24, 24-70, and 70-200.
Is this a hiccup that will be fixed in the final release?
Lance

... but that's not the issue.
I think it is.
Plus I don't want it auto correcting every single image in my camera raw default settings.
Please, try this:
Load a new photo of your D3, shot with the desired lens.
Turn on Profile Lens Correction.
Select Default or Auto option.
Turn off Profile Lens Correction.
Choose "Save New Camera RAW Defaults" from the fly-out menu.
From now on, your photos shot with the D3 should get corrected automatically after you click the Lens correction button.
And yes, it's a bug in ACR RC's defaults.

Similar Messages

What are the major risks buying used lenses ?

i just bought my first dslr, and i was wondering what are the major risks buying used lenses ?

You need to be able to inspect and test the lens.
Look for obvious signs of physical damage, drops, etc. (cracks, dents, etc.) A lens normally will get some signs of wear but as it's a used lens, you expect *some* wear... you're really looking for signs of damage.
Remove both front and rear caps. Look through the lens into a bright no-contrast background (a white wall, a blue sky, etc.) and check the optics. You're looking for signs of mold growth or damage to coatings. Minor dust on internal optics wont impact the lens performance... so while you wouldn't want major amounts of dirt... don't worry too much about minor bits of dust (I've actually helped prove this to someone by clipping a 3M PostIt note down to a tiny 1/4" x 1/4" size and sticking it on the front glass. Take a photo... nothing shows in the photo (even a piece of "dirt" that big wont show because the camera cannot focus on anything that close to the lens.)
Rotate the focus ring from end to end. You should feel a smooth and consistent amount of friction as you rotate the focus ring. There should be no rough spots. Listen to the lens as you do this... there should be no grinding noises.
Do the same with the zoom ring but in addition to checking for smooth consistent performance (no sticky or rough spots) you're also checking to make sure nothing seems excessively worn (nothing wobbles loose... very heavily used lenses can do that after enough wear.)
Connect the lens to the camera and make sure the camera can completely operate the auto-focus motors without a problem and/or if it's an image stabilized lens that the IS components are working.
Set the camera to max aperture (e.g. f/22, f/32.. depending on the lens) and press your camera's "depth of field preview" button (if you don't know which button is your DOF preview, check your manual. Canon tends to move that one around a bit but it's almost always on the front side of the camera near the lens mount.) You want to press and release it a few times. This will cause the lens aperture blades to stop down to the aperture you set. Release... do this while watching the lens. You should see the aperture blades move in and out (well... they snap in and out very quickly). You want to make sure it works ok, the camera gets no error codes, and there's no signs that anything is sticking.
And then there is the focus test...
Focus the camera preferably at a FLAT surface that has lots of detail.... such as the brick wall of a building. Make sure the camera is level and that the camera's focal plane is parallel to the plane of the wall. Take a test photo at low f-stop and inspect. You're checking to verify that the focus works and that the focus is reasonable across the image. As you inspect from left ot right and top to bottom you are looking to make sure the focus is more or less equal (if the right side of the image is focused... but the left side of the image is soft... it would indicate that lens elements are skewed (lens isn't collimated). It's difficult for a lens to get into this situation unless it was dropped and you'd probably see signs of damage.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Auto focus on my 2 year old T3i has stopped working, any suggestions.

auto focus has stopped working. camera is almost 2 years old. I can take pictures at normal distance but if I try to take a picture that requires zoom it will not work and all my pictures are fuzzy.

Check the lens and make sure the "AF/MF" switch is in the "AF" position (Auto-focus is on).
Do you own other lenses and does this happen with them?
Are other functions of the lens working? e.g. if you change the f-stop does it affect the exposure (showing that the camera is communicating witht the lens to control the blades.)
Make sure the contacts on the body and lens are clean. Clean them only with a non-abbrassive cloth (e.g. don't use a "pencil eraser" for example) because the gold plating on the contacts is thin and can be worn off if you use an abbrassive cleaner.
Eject the battery from the camera... wait several minutes, then re-insert (this basically "reboots" the firmware. Turning off the power switch doesn't "technically" shut it down... it puts it into a kind of "sleep" state. But removing the batteries, allowing any capacitors with stored power to self-discharge, then re-inserting the batteries will cause the camera to boot fresh and this will sometimes clear up problems.
It's also possible that there's a problem with the auto-focus mechanism in the lens itself and the lens would need service to repair it, but you may as well rule out other things before you resort to sending it in.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Lightroom 4.1 won't recognize my supported Nikon camera and lenses under "Lens Corrections"?

Develop Module-Under Lens Corrections, Enable Profile Corrections, Lightroom 4.1 won't auto recognize my Nikon D5000 camera and lenses even though they ARE supported. When I manually choose Nikon in this widow, I can only get 8 of the multitude of supported Nikon lenses to show in the drop down. Of these 8 lenses, none match any of my lenses. How do I fix this? I would like to be able to click the check box for "Enable Profile Corrections" and have it auto recognize my camera and lens.
Here is my history:
I shoot in RAW
This is a new install of Lightroom 4.1 on a new computer with all updates installed.
I'm running Win 7 64bit
I previously used Lightroom 3 on a different computer and it worked great with Lightroom 3
I'm a REALTOR that uses Lightroom to edit my photos, not a pro. So, please give answers that a non-pro can understand. I am really hoping there is some simple answer to my problem.
I did search the help file first and couldn't find an answer.
Thank you in advance for the help!!

OMG... I'm such a nit-wit!! I switched the setting in my camera to try something and forgot to swith it back!
I've been digging through this for more that an hour and never bothered to check the file setting.
Thanks for the suggestion!

Nikon Lense compatibility

My D40X pooped out and I want to buy a D5100 (body Only). Will my lenses and speedlight work with the 5100? I have a Nikon ED AF-S Nikkor 70-300 1:4.5-5.6G and a Nikon DX AF-S Nikkor 18-55 1:3.5-5.6 G II ED lense. Also: Nikon SB800 speedlight.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

When I did a search on D5100 models on BBuy site, there is more than one product and there are 247 reviews on one model. Is this the review you are referring to?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Nikon+-+D5100+16.2-Megapixel+DSLR+Camera+-+Black/2553883.p?skuId=2553883...
My thoughts....
It is one review out of many. I did not see any other reviews with focussing problems he is describing.
He mentions trying to focus 1 foot from the lens.... most lenses need 2 or 3 feet to auto focus properly. That lens needs 11", so he's just barely giving the lens enough clearance to focus. He mentions everything is "one plane". At 1 foot? That does not count.
did he have enough light? Lens needs enough light to auto focus. You mentioned having a SB800. Use the autofocus light to help with the auto-focus.
did he have enough contrast? If everything is one colour it can be hard to autofocus
there are only 11 focus points on this older, entry model. You might want newer higher end models with more focus points. Love the 51 autofocus points my Nikon's.
more expensive models also have more cross-type focus points. Entry models might only have ONE.
I had problems with the D700 with a tamron lens (28-300mm). Once I replaced the third party lens with a Nikon.... the focussing problems went away.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DVQiN568izQ&hd=1

Auto-tabbing between input text fields in AS3

Hello-
I am having some trouble figuring out how to work auto-tabbing between input text fields when a user inputs a character. I have a series of text boxes with maxChar set to 1, and when the user inputs a character, I would like it to auto-tab to the next one. I'm putting together a crossword-style banner ad so the auto-tabbing will help tremendously. All the input text fields are instanced on the stage as input1, input2, etc; not called in from a custom class. Also, I've been working with AS3 for about 2 weeks lol!
thanks!

Awesome, thank you, that works nicely! Now I need to figure out how to capture individual keyCodes for each input and then come up with a conditional to check for right or wrong answers. I have a "check your answers" button all set up. I think I am almost there, possibly a syntax hiccup for me. Any advice on how to do that would be appreciated.

D3 + "Auto" White Balance in LR2 = +30 Magenta

I have been finding some problems with the "Auto" white balance setting in LR2...
Since I started shooting RAW with my D3 (while still shooting with my D70 in the same locations) LR2 likes to give me a +30 Magenta whenever I choose Auto no matter where or what I'm shooting.
I don't suffer the same adjustment shooting RAW on the D70 (interchanging the same lenses.)
Anybody else seeing this issue? I'm shooting Auto WB on the D3 almost all the time and I end up having to manually perform any WB tweaks in LR otherwise everything is too "pink."

While generally agreeing that a gray-card white-balance measurement is more accurate and eyedropping something that glows in UV light is a problem, in this particular case, if the dress does indeed look white to the eye, and the people that will be viewing and purchasing the pictures expect it to be white, then white-balancing on the dress can be ok.
In this particular instance the issue seems to be that there is mixed lighting between the sky and the trees so the particular part of the dress being eyedropped changes things, and the angle of the gray-card would make a difference, so the multiple angles of fabric in the dress may offer a wider range of "targets" where one is more accurate than the gray-card.
I wish LR would allow the Auto WB to be restricted to the cropped area of a photo, so you could crop it down to just the gray-card or in this case the front of the dress and have it guess more correctly.
The maximum area that can be sampled by the WB-dropper is too small and the area sampled for the Auto WB is too large for LR to be the most helpful in certain situations.
Being able to eyedropper a non-neutral area, such as the skin and compute the color-balance as compared to a library of skin tones, would also be very helpful.
Elements lets you color-balance a photo based on skin tones, and you can do this thing by hand in Photoshop Levels/Curves by referring to RGB values, but I wish LR would be helpful in this regard, as well.
I realize this is what the DNG Profile Converter and Colormunki are letting you do, but having to create a permanent profile and install it and use it are not the same as being able to create an image-specific profile and use it in place of WB across several images.
Why shouldn't I be able to have someone hold up a color-checker and have LR compute an image-specific color-balance based on that.
The other thing LR should allow is have an eyedropper help with determining the highlight and shadow tint hue/sat values.

Why are no Pentax lenses in the Adobe Camera Raw lens profiles when processing JPG files?

I normally shoot and process raw files and use the latest version of Adobe Camera Raw for processing. Some of these files are converted to jpg for use on the net or e-mailing etc. Sometimes I want to make minor changes to the now converted jpg file and often go to Adobe Camera Raw for ease and speed of use. Lately I have gone back to some files that were not thoroughly processed as raw files before conversion to jpg. When, in ACR, I go to Lens Corrections panel, Profile tab, I Enable Lens Profile Corrections and choose Setup: Auto (or Default) and get the message, "Unable to locate a matching lens profile automatically".
I then go down to Lens Profile and click on Make with the intention of choosing the Pentax lens which I used for the photo. Here is the problem - there are only six choices under make, namely Apple, Canon, Nikon, Sigma, Sony and Tamron. I have no such issues when processing a raw file in Adobe Camera Raw. Pentax lenses are automatically detected and Pentax, along with Leica, Samsung, Zeiss, etc. are choices under Make of lens.
Do other people have this problem? Is there some setting I have missed? Is Adobe just not permitting some makers' lenses, for which there are profiles, to be corrected if the files are jpgs?
BTW, I have checked and the same issues exist for tiff files opened in ACR.

Assuming I read your post correctly, and that you're trying to use Lens corrections on JPEGs and TIFFs... I believe there's a completely different set of profiles for correcting already "developed" images (such as JPEGs and TIFFs). If I recall correctly (and it's been a while since I read about this), it's the same set that's used inside Photoshop for the Filter - Lens Correction tool (I hope someone here will correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm sure I read this somewhere).
If your lenses are known to Camera Raw when you develop raw files, I suggest you will need to go all the way back to your Raw file and reprocess it from that stage. You'll get a better result anyway.
-Noel

Why does LR 4 not recognize Sigma lenses (NEX 7) automatically in Develo module for lens corrections

In Lightroom 4.6, "enabling lens profile" in the Develop module works perfectly for Sony lenses with NEX ARW files (NEX 7).
When i use Sigma lenses instead, nothing happens although "enable profile corrections " is ticked, no matter what is set next: auto, custom, or default....
I am getting tired to always have to fill in the 3 Lens Profile questions (but only for Sigma lenses) with 1: Sigma, then 2: search the lens in Lightroom's long Sigma list and click, and finally 3: hope it takes.
I am assuming that Lightroom reads the Metadata (where the Sigma and Sony lenses are fully described, I have checked!), but does not cooperate with Sigma, while Sony lenses work so well.
Why is that so and how can I get the proper lens profile automatically if the lens does have its own Adobe profile loaded?
Frustrated ...

Why is that so and how can I get the proper lens profile automatically if the lens does have its own Adobe profile loaded?
Frustrated ...
Pick the correct lens manually then choose 'Save New Lens Profile Defaults' from Setup drop down menu. Lr should remember the lens and use it as the default in future. See screenshot below

Great lenses for the Fs7

Hi Guys,
I have been having this dilemma bout what lenses to use with my Fs7. I like the Metabones Speedbooster but I HATE the lag on the Iris when using Canon EF L lenses. I have a full set of Canon Cine Prime lenses for when I'm shooting work that has a budget to use them but this always leaves me having to use zoom lenses with an internal Iris on other shoots.
So I have been looking around for a set of lenses that won't break the bank with an external Iris, manual zoom and manual focus. The Sony 28-135 SELPH lens is an F4 lens and on the Fs7 is more like a 42-200mm so good for some work but not for other work, certainly not for handheld shooting. But I don't like the way the zoom works in manual mode and F4 isn't that fast really.
So I found this chap based in Scotland called the Lens Doctor. His website is www.thelensdoctor.co.uk and what he does is he takes Canon FD lenses and declicks the iris and then removes the FD mount and adds an EF mount! Fantastic! so now with my Metabones Speedbooster I can have a 35-105mm F3.5 lens that has an iris of F2! Or a 70-210 F4 which has an iris of F2.8! I also have a 20-35mm F3.5 that is like an F2 and great for handheld.
Now at this point I must point out to you that these lenses are NOT cine lenses they are adapted stills lenses so they don't have 300 degree barrel turns or .8 pinch teeth but I was just at Canon UK's headquarters in Surrey and I was able to use their lens projector and the lens engineer there said that they are more than capable of resolving a 4k image and that they where very sharp across the whole frame. I really like these lenses as you can tell. They are perfect for all that corporate, news and broadcast work that just won't pay for a Canon CN7 or Arri Alura. These aren't 'vintage' lenses and the glass in them is the same glass as you'd find in Canon EF L (MK1) lenses. If you have some Canon FD glass you can even send it to him and he'll declick it add what he calls a FVA to make the Iris smooth and then fit the EF mount!
I'm just waiting on a Canon FD 28-200 from him at the moment, which could turn out to be the perfect lens!
Cheers
Mark

Sounds like an interesting possibilty this FD-EF conversion job, I may well look into it. Would definitely be keen to see some real-world footage shot with your Vivitar zoom once you get it back from Scotland. As you mentioned your annoyance with the slow rate of adjustment of an electronic iris through the speedbooster, I thought I'd share a useful configuration tweak that I discovered the other day when trying to address similar frustration. Long story short, I've customised one of the assignable handgrip buttons (I chose 6, for middle finger activation) to be "Push Auto Iris". This way, if I need to do a rapid (and therefore probably significant/large) iris shift that would take a lot of wheel-scrolling, I just briefly press the assigned button, engaging auto-iris. The iris adjusts to the 'correct' exposure, and I then release the button and fine tune a stop or so either way if needed. It's been working pretty well for me - give it a go if/when you're stuck using an electro-iris EF lens. Cheers, jason

T5i auto flash not working

My T5i auto flash has stopped working in every mode except CA. It worked fine for a while but now this problem just appeared. I have the 100-400 and 24-105 lenses and the same thing happens with both. I upgraded the firmware but that did not help. I really dont want to send this camera back to the factory though it is still under warranty...any thoughts? Thanks.

Normally you have to pop-up the flash to enable it. But the camera will raise the flash on it's own in some modes... CA, full auto (green box), and some of the scene-based modes such as portrait, close-up, and night-scene.
In other modes it should not pop up on it's own, but if you press the button to raise the flash then the camera will use it (basically your decision to leave the flash down vs. pop the flash up tells the camera if you'd like to use it ... or not.) You raise the flash by pressing the button that resembles a lightning bolt on the front of the camera located near the "EOS Rebel T5i" badge.
The built-in flash isn't nearly as powerful as some external flashes. Subject distances should typically be within about 10' or so when using the built-in flash. If you need to cover greater distances (as might be the case when using a 100-400mm lens) then you'd need an appropriate external flash.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Which digital camera will accept a FD 35-70mm and a 80-200mm auto zoom lens?

Purchased T50 Canon camera 20+ years ago. Barely used, but needs repair. Also purchased FD 35-70mm Canon zoom lens and 80-200mm auto zoom lens. Which Canon digital camera will accept these lens?

FD series lenses are pre-EOS. They don't auto-focus.
Canon started this line with the F-1 in 1971 and continued with them until around 1990 and they were phased out in favor of the EOS system.
You can find a list of bodies that use FD lenses here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_fd
I have a Canon AE-1 (still have it ... still works!) which uses FD lenses.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Do the older 'film SLR' third party EF lenses work with new Canon DSLR's

I have an old film EOS Rebel G with two lenses (Sigma 28-80 Macro) & (70-300 Quantaray 1:4-5.6 LDO Macro).
I got away from the SLR style camera several years ago and am now looking to take the plunge again as the quality of the point and shoot and smart phones can't compare.
I tested both of these lenses on a friend of mine's Canon T3i. The lenses would not auto focus. I thought since his camera had the 'red dot' mount they would function but they would only work as a manual focus. My initial thought was that his camera is really designed to support the EF-S style lens that that is why it could not auto-focus.
Am I truly out of luck or will some of the higher end (full frame) DSLR's support the auto focus features of these lenses? Or do the new Canon's not support older third party lenses?
Thanks,
Chris

Hi New2dslr,
While older Canon EF lenses work with our new cameras, we can't be certain with third party lenses. If modifications for the lenses are not available from their respective manufacturers, I recommend investing in some good quality Canon lenses..
Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

Auto Vector Mask won't let me get past the dialog box

Something funny started happening a few weeks back- When I try to apply an auto vector mask, I hit 'Apply' and the dialog box stays there. If I continue to press 'Apply', it will affect the mask, but I can't get past the dialog box. The 'Cancel' button still works. I've gone as far as reinstalling Fireworks CS5, and the hiccup remains....

Resolved- I had locked down the the #Shared Objects folder, so Flash Player couldn't write to it. Whoops. Thanks anyway, maybe this will help someone in the future!

I have a EOS 30D with EFS 17-85mm lens. Error 99 and now the auto focus is not working

The 30D started a month ago to show Error 99 and not I have lost auto focus? Any suggestons!

Error 99 is not specific. It just means something is wrong and the camera is unable to function, but doesn't give any clues what the fault might be.
I agree with cleaning the lens-to-camera contacts and the idea of trying the camera with another lens and the lens with another camera, to see if you can determine which is at fault.
It also may help to reboot the camera and/or reinstall the firmware. Maybe something has gotten hung up in memory or some instructions have gotten corrupted.
To reboot the camera simply turn the camera off, remove all batteries (including the small time/date battery), turn camera on and press shutter release button once (nothing will happen, this is just to clear any remaining power stored in the circuitry). Then turn the camera back off, reinstall the batteries, turn camera on and check the date/time. If it needs resetting, then you got a proper reboot. You likely will need to reset things in the menu and the custom functions.
While doing the above, it's a good time to replace the time/date battery. If your 30D still has the original, it may be sorely in need of replacement. Those little silver button batteries are widely available and easily found.
To reinstall the firmware, go to the Canon website, search for 30D model and look for the software page. The latest version of firmware should be available there for download, along with instructions how to install it. Follow the instructions very carefully. It's not difficult to do, but must be done right or there's risk of "bricking' the camera.
There's no guarantee that either of these will help... but they might, plus are free and relatively easy to try yourself.
If none of the above helps, you'll likely need to have the camera looked at by a professional repair tech.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

Auto Lenses Hiccup?

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