Back to back envelope adjustment

Possible newbie question:
If I have a single track with back-to-back audio clips (like broll SOT)
how can I quickly adjust the volume of each clip using the volume envelope
without adding 2 keyframes at each edit point? I was told that with ProTools you
click on the clip and it will only adjust the envelope for that clip. I see that
in STP, you can activate the "select clip with keyframes" and it will add a keyframe to the beg and end of the clip, but then you get a ramp from the prev.
clip. Is there a different work flow that I need to try?
Thanks,
Jeff

It sounds like you are working with video audio clips? The way I would approach them is to clean up the ends (assuming the SOT are similar ie: voice w. nat sound etc, set the levels you like and cross fade to each clip. You could use the key frames but I would use the clips on alternating tracks and cross fade. If you are going to use music etc, then you should come across decent. Good luck.

Similar Messages

UCCX Call Back After Adjustable Time Period

I have been asked to create a script that allows a person to call in, enter their phone number, and after a certain number of minutes a call back is initiated. I have found the script from the script repository named BaseLineAdvQueuing which has call back builtin, but I am curious how I could create some sort of timer that is adjustable based on caller input to schedule the call back. For example, "enter the number of minutes before you wish to recieve a call back from the system" the person may enter 45 and this would set the ball rolling for the call back a quarter of an hour later.
Any ideas how I could acomplish the timer aspect of this?
Thank you for your input!

This can get complicated, especially if your call center is already complicated. Basically, you are going to need to write records to your database. Have a scheduled task check your database entries for records which need to be processed for callback. Have UCCX initiated via an HTTP Trigger. That script will then place a call to your CSQ script, wait for an Agent, and then connect the Agent to the caller.
Some challenges you might face:
Scripting UCCX for such a solution
DB design and access
Error handling/User experience
Consideration for EWT
Consideration for which CSQ
Reporting
Cisco will not support you on this, so whatever you do, make it as simple as possible while still achieving the goal. You're going to need to support it yourself.
Good luck.

When I use the and - keys on their own it used to adjust exposure (in develop mode) but now it adjusts contrast and i can't work out how out change it back to exposure?

How do you change + and - keys back to adjusting exposure rather than contrast? I can't find any documentation about this.
Thanks :-)

NO way!! thats os easy LOL thanks heaps, i really appreciate you responding :-) problems solved!!!! :-) cheers mate

Finish Date Moving Back In Time When I Start The Task And Then F9

New to P6 and for the most part love it! Am having a hard time understanding why my finish dates are moving back in time. The tasks have no predecessors or successors and I set a start on or after constraint. Can anyone help me with this please?

In my opinion the finish date will only move back if the activity is after data date and there is no predecessor, once tou schedule or do F9 it will move back to adjust the start date to data date. The other reason will be if your constrain of start on after is a date which is before the current stat date of the activity, and once you schedule (F9) the start dates will move back to the contraint dates, hence your finish date will also move backwards according to the constraint dates.

Can I get my old calendar back?

Not a fan of ios7.
Can I get my old calendar back, or adjust the new one?

Cbenway I agree with you. So far not ios7 fan, either. It seems to assume I have an iPhone. I have an iPad.
Both Samit & Kb--unacceptable replies. Neither of these "answers" are resolutions. They are excuses and band aids.
If you could at least propose WHY Apple made these changes, as in what were they HOPING would occur that would be helpful. Not be supportive of a product which is quickly degrading in quality.
Worse than windows users who accept MS need to reboot every update! Lol
I for one am baffled. It is as though they retrogradeedcode and reintroduced code trees from 2008 when they had exchange calendar problems.
Tempted to go backwards to iOS 6 until Apple gets their $8!t together and fixes some of these bugs in 7 . Busy professional who doesn't have time to mess w this nonsense. What are 7's selling points for iPad?

Help! Why does Aperture automatically adjust my white balance?

Hey,
Just wondering if anybody knew why Aperture seems to want to automatically adjust the white balance settings of the RAW .NEF images I've been importing. I mean, on an example image, the in camera white balance was about 5900K with no hue adjustments, but when I imported it into aperture, it looked completely different. Sure enough, Aperture had set a color temp of 5475K and a hue of -22. If I wanted it to be adjusted, I would've asked, but I spent the time getting the white balance right in camera for a reason. I really don't want to have to go back and adjust every image manually. That would defeat the purpose. Please, lend some insight.

I have a D80. Do you think apple will eventually develop a solution to this problem, or some sort of workaround? In the meantime, might I be better off just using the proprietary software, like captureNX? Or, how about adobe camera raw?

Trying to understand auto adjustment

Hello, I'm using CS2 and some time ago I read (I don't recall where) that one should generally start at the top of the adjustment panel and work down when adjusting a RAW file: i.e. start with Temperature then do Tint; do Exposure before Shadows and before Brightness. Sure one might have to go back to adjust one of the higher ones... but that's part of the skill in using it. This rather made sense, trying to be systematic about adjustment.
I recently was playing with a shot from a Canon camera that was underexposed and dark. I increased Exposure by nearly stop but it was still a bit dark. I took the shadows down and increased brightness a bit. I reduced contrast somewhat. It didn't look right.
I hit "Auto" and it was a reasonable approximation. Certainly no worse than I had done. But I was confused to see that Exposure had been reduced by over a stop (when it was underexposed in the first place) and then brightness was increased.
For example:
Exposure Shadows Brightness Contrast Saturation
Image settings 0 5 +50 +25 0
My attempt +0.8 2 +82 -17 0
Auto -1.2 1 +103 0 0
I can't work out why it would reduce exposure so much but then increase brightness a lot. They're bigger adjustments than I made.
Can anyone point me at something that explains how to adjust properly and/or what the "auto" setting does so that I can improve my RAW processing of darker images?
Thanks.

Jeff, now that you say it I remember that exposure/shadow are white/black. :( I think I get confused because the word "exposure" rather means what I exposed and it shows "stops" of adjustment - in other words it sounds like it does what the brightness really does.
ACR is the tool I use because I have it, but I have to say I'd use something else if it looked good!!
Eric, I do tend to work iteratively. It was just that this is clearly not how Auto worked and it confused me considerably. With my new (renewed) understanding I'm looking at my images in a different light and have already improved what I've been doing before.
Thanks both for your responses.
Mark

CS4 Black & White Adjustment - Missing Sliders ?

In CS3 the Black & White Adjustment Layer dialogue offered two sliders for adding a tint. These were Hue and Saturation, and were delightfully easy to use.
In CS4 the Black & White Adjustment Layer non-modal tab does not have these two sliders; instead you have to click on the square called tint which opens up the Select target color: dialogue. OK so hue has a slider, but adjusting the saturation requires entering a figure into a box (or all the arrow key stuff). Not anywhere near as convenient nor intuitive as sliders.
It is possible to regain this flexibility by directly converting the image to Black & White using the Black & White conversion dialogue available from the menu, but then this means that it has to be on a copy of the image and is, therefore, not re-adjustable later.
Is it possible to have the modal dialogues back for Adjustment Layers, along with all the adjustments previously available, or are CS4 users stuck with the Adjustments Panel - as is ?
Any other suggestions for getting these two useful slider back ?
(but why take them away in the first place ?)

We are at cross-purposes here:
Simon is talking about using a
Black and White Adjustment Layer.
It is in the palette for that kind of layer that you will see the Tint Box with the little colored square beside it.
If you check the Tint Box and then CLICK on the little colored square, you will open the regular Color Picker (as shown in # Eight).
At that time, Sliders are available for any selected channel, or choice of input, when you click its dedicated Radio Button.
Sliders for Colorizing can be reached from a Hue/Sat Adjustment Layer but that is a different scenario from the one which Simon was talking about.

Can Parameters be used to adjust Font size in Rpts?

Post Author: KJ7
CA Forum: General
Hi there - we want to use Crystal Rpts to print labels for various tape/media formats.
The staff will select & preview the reports thru a different program/platform - where all the data is entered & updated. (The reports themselves reside on the server, and I'm the one who updates & modifies them, the users simply print, export results, etc.)
The issue is - if we start utilizing Crystal for the labels... the staff no longer has immediate access to manipulate templates (to modify font size, etc.) unless I give them all licenses to Crystal Rpts (which would be costly & not entirely prudent).
I'm a bit of a novice in terms of Crystal & have very little knowledge in terms of parameters, but I was wondering if I can use a parameter to have them adjust the font size?? [That way - they could preview the report - if the text doesn't all fit, they can cancel out, go back in, adjust their parameter criteria, etc.]
Any assistance you might be able to give me would be GREAT!!
Thanks!
~k
PS - I'm working in Crystal 9... it's the version that's compatable w/my other program (ScheduALL)

Post Author: KJ7
CA Forum: General
Thanks - all of these suggestions are really helpful! - one last follow-up:
my users who are testing this are remarking that they often have to go in and re-size/tweak these items a number of times. Obviously, this means re-freshing the preview more than once. Because of the detail of the labels - and the user's preference to be able to manipulate the font size for various fields discreetly, I've created 11 separate parameter fields for font re-sizing (grouping some items together only where appropriate).
So the question is (now that I've set these defaults - and they've over-ridden, some or all of them) ... is there a way for them to go back & revise one or more parameter and still keep the rest of their current settings/changes (without having to re-enter all that info all over again)??
EX: Preview 1:
?Name font >default val: 10 => change to 9
?Title font >default val: 8 => change to 7
?CH1 font >default val: 8 => change to 7
?CH2 font >default val: 8 => change to 7
?spine font >default val: 7 => remains static
?interior label font >default val: 8=> change to 7
Preview 2:
Leave all items the same as above except:
?Name font >default val: 10 => (was changed to 9) => change to 8
Please advise. Thanks.
~Kara

+/- Badge for 'Apply Auto Adjust Tones' Preference setting.

Okay, in V1.1 a User can now, in Preferences check to 'Apply Auto Adjust Tones'. ONly thing is the Develop Adjustment Badge +/- is not applied so it is easy to forget that one may have intentialally or mistakenly set this preference.
It would be nice if, when this Preference is checked the bBadge is applied, just as it is, if set in Quick Dev or Develop on a case by case basis.
Might resolve some confusion. Or if this is by design, maybe a special Auto Adjust Badge could be added.
Is Reset supposed to set back Auto Adjust applied by the Preference or can one only revert the image in History if applied with the 'Apply Auto Adjust Tones' Preference setting?
Don
Don Ricklin, MacBook 1.83Ghz Duo 2 Core running 10.4.10 & Win XP, Pentax *ist D
http://donricklin.blogspot.com/

Just having a quick look at this and i no longer see the option. If i find out why i will let you know. I'm sure i have seen it there in the past.
Allan

Issue with geeksquad repair(s)

I purchased a MacBook Air almost two years ago. Since then, it has been out for repair for 56 days (and counting).
First, the hard drive crashed in 10/2013 (took one week to repair). Then, it was intermittantly overheating (03/2014), which GeekSquad said was due to a faulty battery (another week). However, when I got it back after the battery replacement, I noticed that the trackpad felt loose-- a problem that had not been present before. So I sent it back, but the repair technicians could not replicate the loose feeling and sent it back without adjustment, requiring it to be sent in yet again (two more weeks). (I was still not satisfied with this "resolution". The trackpad continued to feel loose at times, especially after long periods of unuse.)
Last month, I noticed that the back panel had pulled away from the body and there was a crack in the fan cover. I returned it to GeekSquad. Monitoring my repair online, I noticed that twice they had to order and wait for parts to arrive. Imagine my dismay when, nearly a month after sending it out, I went to pick it up in the store and IT WAS STILL BROKEN. From the attached image, you can see that the back frame is not flush with the sides and there are stress marks around the screw where it appears that the repair technician simply tried tighten it to resolve the issue.
[IMG]http://i62.tinypic.com/t8vthj.jpg[/IMG]
I am very frustrated with this experience and disappointed that I continue to be without my computer. I am frustrated that the customer service at Best Buy cannot do anything to rectify this situation, saying that since my computer has not been sent for repair three times for the same issue, it does not qualify as a lemon. I am posting here in hopes that this can be resolved. I have purchased 3 MacBooks and countless other items from Apple directly and have never had such problems getting my devices serviced.

Hello brittlandk,
Computer problems like an unresponsive track pad and nonexistent battery life are frustrating for any laptop owner, but it can be downright aggravating if you are unhappy with your computer after receiving service. You should be able to trust our Geek Squad agents with your laptop when it’s in for service, so I truly apologize if we didn’t leave you feeling confident in our repair services.
While rare and far from ideal, there are times when a redo service is required to fix a reported issue. Should something like this be necessary, we do try to expedite the process in that your computer is pushed to the front of the service line to ensure you get your computer back as quickly as possible. Having said this, I realize your computer is currently in for a redo service, and we greatly appreciate your patience while we re-evaluate the situation at hand. Please know I’ll be keeping an eye on your service to make sure everything progresses as it should from here.
There is one thing, however, that I want to take the opportunity to clear up. You mentioned that one of our representatives explained to you that you’d only receive a potential replacement computer underneath our Geek Squad Protection (GSP) plan if your device experienced the same malfunction 3 times during the life of the plan. While this is true of our newer plans, your plan was purchased prior to this change. This means your plan’s terms and conditions (found here) state that after two qualifying hardware repairs and a third one is diagnosed, you should qualify for a “No Lemon” exchange. However, it seems your computer has only had one qualifying repair, so this could explain why an associate stated this path was not a viable option at this time.
Having said this, I’ve sent you a private message with your current service history to help clarify what qualified and what did not. You may view it by logging into the forum and clicking on the envelope icon in the upper right-hand corner of the page.
Respectfully,
Alex|Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
Private Message

How do you know the audio level of a keyframes

I'm varying the audio levels of clips on the timeline by creating keyframes using the pen tool. I create four points:
1) -inf = beginning of fade-in
2) -5dB = end of fade-in
3) -5db = beginning of fade-out
4) -inf = end of fade-out
But when I'm going back to adjust points, how do I know what level they're at already without having to drag them away from their home position and then back?
Scrolling over them with the mouse (and not clicking) just gives me a crosshair and no info.
I want to make sure that points 2&3 are at the same level, so I can just move the envelope region between them up and down to change the volume. Any quick way to do this to speed up my process?

T-Bob wrote:
I want to make sure that points 2&3 are at the same level, so I can just move the envelope region between them up and down to change the volume. Any quick way to do this to speed up my process?
Specifically to address this point: if you mouse over the audio levels' rubber band segment BETWEEN your points 2) and 3) until the cursor changes to an up/down adjustment arrow ⬍, and move it up/down, it will adjust BOTH the levels at 2) and 3), maintaining the relative difference between them (or, if points 2) and 3) start at the same level, this adjustment will keep them equal as you drag them both up/down together in one action.)
As usual, much easier to DO it, rather than describe it!

How to Enable MMS without BIS

How to enable MMS without BIS
This guide is for you if:
you have an BlackBBerry OS 7 device on a regular (non-BIS) data plan
and
2. you cannot send MMS (multimedia) messages.
Getting MMS working requires you to split, hex edit, merge and install service books, so read through the instructions and decide whether you’re up to it. I’ve attempted to explain everything as clearly as possible, but it’s a complex process and requires you to follow instructions carefully.
It's worth asking your carrier if they can just enable MMS for you. If they can and will, you don't need this guide.
Notes:
The process described here may also work on earlier devices with OS 4, 5, and 6, but I don’t have those devices to test.
Many carriers require you to have a data plan in order to send MMS messages. If you don’t have one, this guide may not help you.
Depending on your cellular plan, sending MMS messages may involve extra charges.
Preparation: Before You Get Started
Software
First, you need some tools to do the work. Download and install these three programs on your computer:
MagicBerry 3.5 (here)
A Hex editor (I like HxD, here)
BlackBerry Desktop (link)
Service Books
You will also need a copy of the service books attached to post #1 in this thread over at CrackBerry. Extract the contents of the .zip file to a location of your choice.
MMS Configuration Information
Once you have the tools and service books, you need to get the MMS configuration information from your cellular carrier.
Specifically, you need three settings: MMS Proxy, MMSC, and APN. Search on Google for something like, “MMS settings for [insert your cellular carrier’s name here]” and you should find them. Note that you also need the port number for the MMS Proxy. It should be there on the settings page.
Note: if the port number for your MMS Proxy is in the 9000s, this process probably won’t work, since your cell carrier may be using the older WAP 1.2 specification. If anyone runs across this, let me know, and I’ll try to help you out.
A Note on MagicBerry
MagicBerry is an .ipd file editor. Service books, like the ones responsible for MMS, are .ipd files. The logical conclusion would be that you could edit service books with MagicBerry. But MagicBerry only shows you certain pre-set fields within the .ipd file. As a result, you can't see or edit a lot of the information in the service book. Even worse, if you do edit a service book file with MagicBerry, that unseen information is not saved, so you end up deleting it and rendering the service book useless.
MagicBerry does have good uses, though: it splits and merges service book files perfectly. In fact, it is the best tool for splitting and merging service books, which is why you downloaded a copy.
Due to MagicBerry’s limitations, you’re going to edit the files with the hex editor.
Let’s get started!
The MMS How-to Guide
Step 1: Split the .ipd Files
Start MagicBerry, click File > Open, and open the tmo_servicebooks.ipd file.
Click Manipulate > Split.
Tick the box for the MMS Config 2.0 file.
Press “Split Selected,” enter a file name (and select a directory, so you know where the file is being saved), and press “Save.” Name the file “MMS_Config_20” so that you easily recognize it.
Note: there are "MMS Config" and "MMS Config 2.0" service books in the tmo_servicebooks.ipd file. Make sure you select the 2.0 version.
Step 2: Hex Edit the MMS Config 2.0 File
Now, start your hex editor and open the “MMS_Config_20.ipd” file. It will look like this, without the highlights and bolding. I’ve added those so that it will be easier to provide instructions on editing.
Hex Editing Basics
In the HEX editor, the blue numbers don’t matter to you (they’re just column and row labels). Only the black ones are part of the file.
The bytes (the two-character pairs) on the left side are all numbers, expressed in hexadecimal or “base-16”. The same information is expressed in ANSI characters on the right side.
The basics of hexadecimal numbering are that you count as follows:
Base-16 (hexadecimal): 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 A B C D E F 10
Base-10 (decimal): 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16
So in the two-character byte pair, 0D = 13, 1F = 31, 50 = 80, etc. If you can figure out those conversions, you’re good. If not, google hexadecimal numbering, and spend some time at a lesson. You need to understand how hex works to do this. There are also decimal to hexadecimal converters online. Use them to check your work, or to do the conversion work for you.
You can edit the file from either side of the hex editor. As you edit the information on one side, you’ll see it automatically changing on the other as well.
It’s easier to edit the information in the green, turquoise, and red fields on the right side.
The information in the grey, yellow, and pink fields must be edited from the left (hex) side, because it’s the hex value that matters, and it shows up as periods or jibberish on the right side. All those “dots” on the right side are not identical when you look over at the left side. They’re actually very different values. The nonsensical letters on the right side are likewise meaningful values on the left side.
It’s not a bad idea to just spend some time playing around in the hex editor before you move on. When you’re done, close the file without saving it, and the changes you make while experimenting won’t be made permanent.
Editing the File
The green blocks: enter your MMS proxy in each one, with the port number following the colon. Add to or delete bytes from the highlighted field if necessary, but whatever you do, do not write over or delete bytes outside the highlighted field! Those bytes contain necessary information, and if they are not there, the service book will not work. The same rule holds true for all of the other edits. You must stay within the highlighted fields. To delete bytes, just press delete. To insert bytes, position the cursor, and go to Edit > Insert Bytes on the menu bar, and choose the number of bytes to insert. If you’re using HxD hex editor, ctrl-z will undo a mistake. It also makes your changes in red, which makes them a little easier to follow. As with all programming, the work has to be perfect. There can be no mistakes. Check everything you do carefully.
The turquoise block: enter the MMSC address here.
The red block: enter your APN here.
The yellow blocks: total number of bytes in the highlighted green, turquoise, or red range that follows. Adjust it when you’ve finished editing. The number must be expressed in HEX of course. Use a decimal to hexadecimal converter online if you prefer that.
The pink blocks: the total number of bytes in the bolded range that follow (again, in hex). Adjust it when you’re finished editing the field.
The grey block: a count of the total number of bytes that follow it. In the original file, the value is 30 01 00 00, which breaks down as: 30(hex)=48 01(hex)=256. The total (48+256) is 304. If the number of bytes following the grey block was less than 256, there would be no 01 in the second place. For example, if there were 226 bytes following the block, the grey block would look like this: E2 00 00 00. When you are finished editing the entire file, go back and adjust the number in the grey block accordingly.
Once you’re done, save the file.
Step 3: Merge the MMS Config 2.0 and Wap Push Config Service Books
Open the “MMS_Config_20.ipd” file in MagicBerry
Once you’ve opened the file, click Manipulate > Merge.
Tick the box for the MMS Config 2.0 file.
On the right side of the “Merge” window, where it says, “Choose second IPD file,” press the button with the three dots.
Choose the tmo_servicebooks.ipd file.
Tick only the box for the “Wap Push Config” service book.
Press “Merge Selected,” enter a file name (and select the directory if necessary), and press “Save.”
Close MagicBerry
Step 4: Backup Your Phone
This is mandatory. You’ll need the backup file for step 6.
You need to have BlackBerry Desktop installed on your computer. If you haven’t done that yet, do it.
Connect your BlackBerry device to your computer with a USB cable. If BlackBerry Desktop does not start automatically, start it.
Do a backup. Just hit “Back up now” and follow the prompts. Do a full backup. Once you’re done, go to step 5.
Step 5: Merge the combined MMS Config 2.0/Wap Push Config service book file with your existing service books
Open MagicBerry
Press File > Open and at the bottom of the Open dialogue window beside the File name box, change “IPD Files (.ipd)” to “BBB Files (.bbb)”. Navigate to the folder where you stored your backup, and open it. It might take a while to open.
Click Manipulate > Merge.
Go down the list on the left hand side and tick the checkboxes for the service book entries (they will be way down). If there are service books listed for MMS Config or Wap Push Config, uncheck those boxes.
On the right side of the “Merge” window, where it says, “Choose second IPD file,” press the button with the three dots. Choose your merged MMS Config 2.0/Wap Push Config file.
Press “Merge Selected,” enter a file name (and select the directory if necessary), and press “Save.”
Optional: You can merge the newly created file again with any other service books you may need – such as the Anworm service books for the browser mentioned in my thread on CrackBerry. Just follow the process used in step 3.
Step 6: Install the Service Books to your phone:
Connect your BlackBerry to your computer with a USB cable if it isn’t still connected.
On your BlackBerry, go to Options > Device > Advanced System Settings > Service Book
Hold down the “Alt” key and press S B E B. You should see a message that says, “Legacy SB Restore Enabled.” Press Okay.
On your computer, open BlackBerry Desktop.
Go to Device > Restore.
Press “Change” and navigate to the folder with the merged .ipd file you created. Press “OK.” You should now see the file listed in the Restore window.
Click on the merged .ipd file you created to select it.
Under the heading “Select Data to Restore,” select “Select Device Data and Settings” and then tick the box for “Service Book.” This step is really important. Make sure it's done right. If you screw it up you could end up wiping a lot of settings and data.
Press “Restore” and answer “Yes” to the confirmation dialogue.
Close the BlackBerry Desktop software, disconnect your device, and do a battery pull to reboot.
Voila! If everything went well, you should have MMS capabilities. Test your ability to send and receive multimedia by sending yourself a picture message. You should receive the message within about 10 seconds.
If it doesn’t work, go back and make sure EVERYTHING in the file is done perfectly. If you find a problem, fix it, merge the files again, and reinstall the service books.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Why not just ask carrier to enable MMS? I know T-Mobile can and will do it, even if there is no data plan at all on the line. We did it for my daughter and I know T-Mobile has done it for others. I assume other carriers do the same, but don't know....Which is why I ask.
- Ira

A way to fudge 3d objects/text

I've kind of found a way of fudging some 3d objects, but it gets really render intensive as it is based on replicating the heck out of things. This also works with text.
Let's say we start off with a circle we created in Motion. For this walkthrough I'm going to assume you just opened a new project and and are working with a layer whose Z position is zero. Hit replicate it and set it to be a 3D replicator with the 3D checkbox. Set the group it is contained in to be 3D, and change the replicator's shape type to "Line". Adjust the start and end points of the replicator so that all X and Y values are zero, the starting Z point is set to "-1", and the ending Z point is set to negative however deep you want the shape to be, minus one. You don't have to use -1 for the starting Z point, but it needs to be whatever the Z position of the original layer was minus one. Then set the number of points to be from 2-4 times the amount between your start and end points.
Now we're going to add the shading. Show your original layer that you replicated, and go to the properties tab of it. Check the Drop Shadow checkbox, and set the color to black. The distance must be set to zero, the opacity should be roughly between 5 and 25 depending on how vivid of shadows you want, and I usually set the blur between 0.5 and 2.
You can go back and adjust the color mode of the replicator to colorize if you want even more differentiation between the front and side faces. Try using the Scale and Scale End controls for distorting cylinders or rectangular prisms. Try thinking of things from different orientations. For example, I needed a 3D audio fader, which seemed impossible until I realized I was looking at it from the wrong angle, and then replicated it sideways instead. Try adding a back to the shapes too. This also works for replicating entire groups.
Problems using this technique develop when you get closer to viewing the pseudo-3d object from a point that is in the same Z range as the layers are stacked in. As in, you can see through it and tell that its made up of stacked layers. This is less noticeable when you have more points in the replicator. The faked lighting is not really accurate to any lighting you set up, but it does give the 3D effect
The replicators really start to add up fast as far as processing power, but I think Motion has some sort of glitch so that it can only handle so many layers, as instead of massive render times I started getting crashes and it started just ignoring them after I had about 1,500 or so replication points and layers. When working with those amounts of replications, its a good idea to keep Activity Monitor (in Applications/Utilities) open so you can tell if Motion has just stalled out and is refusing to render it, and isn't just thinking.
Here are two examples of things I've used this on:
http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/5201/fader3dci5.jpg
http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/5708/cornerkickqd1.jpg
I feel dirty just showing this because of how brute-force it is, but I hope it helps someone out. If anyone figures out a way to make it look more realistic, please share!
Sorry if everyone knows this already, and for the massive post...
-Max

Yeup, exactly the same method using the replicator in my 3D text tutorial:-
http://idustrialrevolution.com/content/blogsection/5/41/
Peter

DVCPro 50 24p @ 29.97 - Pulldown?

Hello,
I'm working on a project that was shot with the Panasonic SDX-900 at 24p.
I captured the footage with the DV50 Easy Set-up at 29.97 and I'll be outputting to DVCPro tape as well as DVD.
I've read through the forum on how it should be captured and edited, but I'm still unclear on Pulldown. Do I need to actually do anything with that in order to finish, or is the footage I captured fine in the 29.97 timeline without adding or removing pulldown? I apologize, but I just don't get it.
I read something about "flicker frames" and cutting on the 5th frame and that's a little unclear as well. I did notice when I exported a full-res Quicktime of the project that occasionally there would be a flash frame of the previous shot if I had used a clip from it's very first frame, so I went back and adjusted the in-points of those clips.
I'm giving the project to another post facility to online, and I want to make sure it's prepped as well as possible, so if anyone can tell me if there's any processing of the footage that I need to do before that I would really appreciate it.
Thanks a lot,
Shona

In case anyone has the same question, this was answered on the Cow FCP forum:
http://forums.creativecow.net/thread/8/1000966#1000966

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