Backlight to Inverter Connection

The backlight went out on my 17" PowerBook so I purchased a new one that came with the pole leads soldiered in and the small plastic white connector that inserts into the inverter. The end of the connector has four holes but I think only 2 are required to make contact with the male prongs on the inverter. Unfortunately, I could not get this connection to work. To make sure the backlight works I bypassed the white connector by having the wires make direct contact with the inverter poles and it lit up just fine. Thus, it looked like contact was not being made so I purchased another white connector and tried it, also with no success.
Did Apple use a custom plastic white connector that inserts into the inverter board for this model?
Thanks

Doubtful if anyone here has any idea. Contact the fake iPhone manufacturer.

Similar Messages

Backlight or inverter?

I have a problem with my 20" Cinema display. it's the older model. About one third of the screen shows a dimmed light. could it be one of the lamps or is it an inverter problem? Is there a quick way to find out what the problem is?
thank you
Ngr

I can think of no way to tell if a lamp has failed versus a failure in the inverter driving the lamp without disassembling the monitor and testing the individual components involved. But regardless the failure, the monitor will need to be taken apart to repair it. It is the same amount of trouble no matter which is the bad component.

Inverter or Backlight?

Hi,
I'm having a little bit of trouble with a new macbook that I hope you can help with... This morning I was just opening up an internet connection when the display became very very black (though intermittently a faint outline of the desktop could be seen). I thought I must accidentally pressed the light button (despite just using the mouse), but the display wouldn't return. The CD/DVD drive started making strange noises (despite being empty). I restarted the computer and the first grey screen appeared, as did a later blue screen, but everything else remained black. I left it on (still black) while I tried to search through the forums to find out what was going on. About 15 mins later the display returned, but all the desktop icons were missing. I relaunched the finder and everything seems to be fine now...
The posts I read seem to indicate backlight or inverter problems for this type of display issue.. how do I know which problem it might be and how to fix it?
Thanks!

As an update, this problem became increasingly worse. Two days after the first incident, the computer wouldn't display anything at all. After repeated attempts to run hardware checks, boot into windows, reset the PRAM it finally turned on for 5 mins, only to flicker on and off repeatedly every 60 seconds or so. It then turned off and I haven't been able to get the display back since (except for about 1 second everytime it boots up on the blue mac screen)... The weirdest part seems to be that it accesses the CD/DVD drive all the time.
I have now taken the computer to the nearest apple outlet for help... I can't believe this is only 1 month old! (The DVD/CD player has been crashing frequently as well - originally I thought it was bad CDs, but now I'm not so sure)....

Charging nokia 5800 via a inverter

hi I have a nokia 5800 and I would like to charge it with the home charger 230v via an 700w inverter connected to a 12v car battery while driving, will it be ok or cause it any damage

leyfinder wrote:
hi I have a nokia 5800 and I would like to charge it with the home charger 230v via an 700w inverter connected to a 12v car battery while driving, will it be ok or cause it any damage
It will be fine. My father uses a similar inverter to power TV's, DVD's, phones etc whilst away from home. His has worked fine with a N95, 5800 and X6.

Backlight turned off?

Hi there friends....
So, I have the blow post under my name re backlight problems. (Screen VERY dim)
Just wondering if I may have accidently turned it off? Is there a setting under display to check??
Chris

Can you adjust the backlight intensity using the F1 and F2 keys on your keyboard? If they don't do anything, try going to System Prefs -> Displays and changing the backlight slider there.
If that fails, it's possible that you might have a faulty backlight or inverter. It's best to get those checked out by an Apple Service Provider.
Hope this helps!

Keyboard backlight repair

I took my Macbook Pro pretty much apart down to the keyboard and got it back together with no leftover parts. The only thing that does not work is the keyboard backlight. I do not see any connectors that I left off and would prefer to not take the motherboard out to see if I missed one unless I need to. Does anyone know where the backlight cable is connected or of anything else I might have done to kill it? Is it an especially delicate cable that I might have broken?

Thanks for the suggestion but it seems to be a hardware problem. First, I took the Mac apart because of a little drinky spill that would not be covered by the extended warrantee. This is the aluminum model and replacing the keyboard is not an option, the whole top needs to be replaced at $250. I would do it if I knew that would fix the problem. The LED backlight string is probably controlled by an LED driver circuit and this may have overshot and killed the LEDs. I measure 4.95 volts at the connector for the light string no matter what the brightness setting is. Not having information as to how the driver works (is probably current sensing) I have no way to know if the driver (part of the m-board) is fried or not. So, I want to diagnose the LED string but I want to do the least disassembly possible until I know that I can fix it and put it back together. I don't know how many times the various fine pitch connectors on the m-board can be connected/disconnected without failing.
What I really need is some detailed information. Just a photo of the LED assembly (it is stuck to the black plastic that covers the keyboard) would help a lot. I need to know if it is just a series string of LEDs that connect only at the connector that is near the left side fan. If I can determine that it is failed I can get some new chip LEDs and or fix a bad solder joint or cracked circuit trace. Apple does not sell the little stick on LED string but makes you buy the whole top cover.
Does anyone have a late model Macbook Pro (the kind with the keys fitting in individual holes in the top cover, not the one with the easily removable keyboard) with the motherboard removed that they can photograph? I can certainly take it all apart again but that will mean three disassembly/assembly cycles before I get it working and I am afraid of the possibility of screwing up one of the many fine pitch connectors.
Also, if anyone has a schematic or description of how the LED driver works that would help me determine if it is working or not. My guess is that the driver overshot because of a temporary short and that it killed the LEDs.

T61 LCD display flickering with big patches of black and going to dark (very low light) afterwards

I have a T61 which has Intel graphic card. It is seven years old and at times has a noisy fan.
Very recently it started to have problem with its LCD, it starts with slight flickering of light intensity from corners of screen, here and there, eventually covering the whole screen, goes away and comes back, happens for few seconds, the pattern repeats for few times, then big (screen-wide) patches of back starts to cover the lower 1/4th, one-half, 3/4th of screen, flickering between the screen content and black screen, till they cover the whole screen after 30-60 seconds. At that moment, the screen is very dark but with a close look, it is still possible (but very hard) to read it. Connecting it to external monitor (through its VGA), it is working very well. Showing same screen on both LCD and external monitor at the same time, the picture on external is solid, but picture on LCD can have this issue. At the moment of writing this message, the problem seems to not happening!! but it was happening during the past whole week including few minutes ago. I searched online and here in the forum and read few posts, and found about these issues:
- some T61's have Nvidia GPU and thermal effects over the time and stress on the package or solder balls can make loose connections (this is probably not my case since the interface to graphic card is by Intel)
- problem with LCD itself (it is working fine just right now)
- problem with graphic card (it is working very well over the VGA to external monitor)
- problem with the ribbon from mother-board to LCD (tilted the screen in different angles when the black patches and flickering are happening and didn't change the chaos much in any direction of making it better or worse)
- problem with bulb inside the screen (maybe the cause, but somehow decided for the last few minutes to working fine)
- problem with inverter (don't know yet what this part it)
- problem with some sort of mechanical part(s) being loose, gently tapped on sides and back of the screen while the phenomena was happening and again didn't have much effect on it in any direction.
I appreciate your time and good gesture of help, many of you would know more scientific/engineering ways of approaching the problem and how to root cause it. My sincere thanks beforehand.

> the screen is very dark but with a close look, it is still possible (but very hard) to read it.
That sounds like a defective CCFL backlight or inverter.
>- problem with bulb inside the screen (maybe the cause, but somehow decided for the last few minutes to working fine)
A CCFL is essentially a high intensity fluorescent bulb. One failure mode is flickering.
>- problem with inverter (don't know yet what this part it)
The inverter is a power supply that converts the low voltage DC used in the rest of the ThinkPad to high voltage to drive the CCFL. I would expect that to fail catastrophically rather than cause flickering.
What to do?
CCFLs backlights are relatively inexpensive ($10 to $15 on eBay) but they can be difficult to replace because they're delicate. You may prefer to replace the entire LCD panel assembly or even the entire top cover assembly (which also includes the inverter card.)
The Hardware Maintenance Manual for the T61 provides detailed instructions for doing this sort of stuff if you'd like to see what's involved and decide what you feel comfortable doing.
Cheers... Dorian Hausman
X1C2, TPT2, T430s, SL500, X61s, T60p, A21p, 770, 760ED... 5160, 5150... S360/30

Problem with matrix/screen in Qosmio F55-Q502

Hello
For a few weeks I have strange problem with matrix/screen in my laptop.
The matrix flickers very often - no matter if power cable is plugged or not.
The screen is full bright and suddenly it starts to blink - it is getting darker, than lighter, usually for few/dozen seconds. It does it when nobody touches it or when I work on it.
It very annoying and making eyes tired - it does it very quickly and there are few levels of screen brightness.
Moreover sometimes the screen turns off - You can see what is on desktop but the screen is very very dark (but not blank or completely switched off). It happens without any reason - sometimes just in the middle of working, sometime for example when I touch (not pull) the power cable between laptop and power supply.
Then, the only way to get back to normal brightness of screen id to close the lid just for half a second and open it
- matrix lights then normally, but can "turns off" moment later and I must do it once again - sometimes even few times..
After "action" with lid screens seems like nothing ever happen..
Does anyone have idea what is the cause of such behaviour or how to diagnose it in details?
Or maybe solve this problem?
Best regards
300m

Sounds like the Backlight or Inverter is failing or there is a loose connection.
Is the unit under warranty? Send it to an ASP for repair.
You should avoid repairing it yourself, the backlight is very high voltage!

Lcd brightness and nothing showing

hi.
i have a couple of problems with my LCD. the first problem was that i was never getting more than minimum backlight on the display, the display was usable but not really in bright environments. i swapped the inverter board and lcd panel but this didn't fix it.
anyway i persevered with this problem but yesterday the display stopped showing an image... it was still backlit (at minimum brightness) but didn't show the desktop. it works via an external screen however.
i took the LCD apart and checked the connections and all wires are intact and plugged in correctly... they were - any ideas guys???
before anyone suggests anything too obvious i am apple certified achds, acdt, acpt and was hoping someone could tell me what parts might be to blame from experience as i no longer have access to AHT.
thanks guys...

Hi,
If you've swapped out the lcd and inverter the only thing left is the logic. I would have to say that it must be something to do with that. Maybe there's an issue with the video / inverter connections to the panel which is why it works fine with an external display.
If possible I would maybe try testing it with a second known working lcd panel as it is possible that the one you used was doa. Or try testing them in another machine.
However I would say that it is likely to be the logicboard.
Robbie

Weird display crashes

I'm just posting this question to find out if anyone has experienced what's happened to my G4 recently. Waking it up from sleep mode, I've been working away and then - PHWATOINGG - the whole display goes BLACK! Just disappears. This has happened twice in as many days and I'm wondering if it's anything serious??
Anyone?

Hi, Dan. It's only serious if you need to see the display while you're working — otherwise, you can just ignore it.
But seriously: when this happens, if you shine a bright light on the display, can you dimly see whatever ought to be clearly displayed there? If so, what's probably happening is that your Powerbook's inverter, which provides power to the display backlight, is failing intermittently and needs to be replaced. And that is serious, because replacing it will cost a lot of money or a lot of your do-it-yourself time and energy, and the DIY replacement is anything but simple.
If there's nothing on the screen at all, even under a bright light, connect an external display to the Powerbook. If the external display works when the built-in display doesn't, there's a problem with the video cable from the logic board to the LCD panel or with the LCD panel itself. In that case the remedy will be to replace the entire display assembly, which includes the LCD, bezel, video and backlight cables, inverter, nd some other internal components.
If an external display behaves just like the built-in screen, your logic board is failing, and will have to be replaced. That's no joke either.
So unless you can be happy with a black screen, you're facing a considerable investment of money and/or effort in your Powerbook to get it running properly again. Whether or not that's worthwhile depends to some extent on how inclined you are to do the work yourself, as well as on which 12" Powerbook model you have. For a look at what might be involved, click on the appropriate 12" Powerbook button on this page.

21.5 inch iMac yellow screen issue

I have a late 2012 iMac (21.5inch). I thought 21.5 models were immune to this issue, but I noticed bottom half of the screen is showing some yellow tint compared to upper half. I thought it was due to the angle of the screen and lighting in my room but that changed when I put my MacBook pro right next to my iMac. Compared to my mid 2009 MacBook Pro, the iMac's screen has a definite yellower time to it..
How much will it cost to replace the screen to eliminate the yellow tint? Please, no replies about taking my iMac to Apple store or calling them. I've already called several different Apple stores, and they have no idea. And please, no Applecare answers or "expensive" answers. I just want exact numbers.

The in-store inspection, product specialist or in-house expert, then technical testing to diagnose the exact cause of the issue, then if done in-house, a repair sequence initiated with an open estimate on what replacement parts would actually be needed, could alter the original best-guess somewhat.
A simple backlight or inverter issue may be all that is causing the symptom. Nobody can simply give you a base price of one size fits all. They will not just 'replace a display' since the panel is more than just one part. If a voltage variation is the cause of partial tint or backlight color, then that will be part of the inspection and diagnosis; this may be in a shop for weeks.
Please stick to one question on the same topic
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/5919757?tstart=0
You appear to have an issue with Apple, so there are
a few good links to their main web site. You can go
and Locate an authorized service nearby, contact an
Apple authorized representative, etc, there. We who
reply here have no direct connection, nor do we have
any authority, cannot cite prices or give quotes, etc.
And our time is our own, individually. We're not Apple.
You will have to contact Apple. You have a computer.
I will not do that for you, from my residence, half a
world away where I have no more access to a Store
than a moose, or a ptarmigan, outside my door.
Good luck.

Pismo PowerBook--no video

Hi all,
I have a Pismo PowerBook that has no video for both the internal display and any attached external displays. It seems to boot up just fine as I can hear the hard drive working and can even put the computer to sleep by pressing the power button followed by the "s" key.
I initially thought that this must be a problem with the logic board, so I ordered a replacement from ifixit.com and installed it. The new board produces exactly the same symptoms as before: no video from any source. Other than a dead replacement logic board, is there anything else that would cause this problem?
Thanks,
Dan

Dan, welcome to Apple Discussions.
I also have a Pismo, but haven't experienced this problem. Below is the text (for video) from Apple's Pismo Service Manual.
PowerBook (FireWire) Symptom Charts / Video –
Pixel(s) always on or off
1. A certain number of pixel anomalies are inherent in display
technology and vary by many factors, including type of
technology. If you suspect that the display contains an
abnormal number of anomalies, contact Apple Technical
Support.
Warning: Do not use a metal screwdriver to reseat the display cable
or shorting could result. Use a plastic or nylon tool.
Partial or full row of pixels is always on or always off
1. Check display cable connection.
2. In the U.S., contact Apple Technical Support.
3. Replace display cable (international only).
4. Replace display (international only).
5. Replace I/O logic board.
Display is very light or totally white
1. Verify display cable and inverter board cable connections to the I/O logic board.
2. Replace inverter board.
3. In the U.S., contact Apple Technical Support.
4. Replace display cable (international only).
5. Replace display (international only).
An external monitor connected to the computer shows no video
1. Verify external monitor has power.
2. Try different resolutions in the Monitors control panel.
3. Try another monitor cable and verify the video adapter has part number 590-1123 on the adapter.
4. Try another monitor.
5. Restart unit and reset PRAM.
6. Replace I/O logic board.
No display, but computer appears to operate correctly
1. Connect power adapter.
2. Adjust screen brightness using keyboard controls.
3. Verify display cable, inverter board, and I/O logic board connections.
4. Connect external, known-good monitor.
5. Verify inverter cable is properly connected.
6. Replace inverter cable.
7. Replace inverter board.
8. In the U.S., contact Apple Technical Support.
9. Replace display cable (international only).
10. Replace display (international only).
11. Replace I/O logic board.
An external monitor connected to the computer shows either horizontal or vertical rolling, or horizontal or vertical distortion
1. Try different resolutions in the Monitors control panel.
2. Verify monitor using another computer.
3. Try another video adapter and verify the video adapter has part number 590-1123 on it.
4. Replace I/O logic board.
Backlight doesn’t operate; screen is very dim
1. Adjust screen brightness setting.
2. Verify backlight cable connection is secure.
3. Check display cable and inverter board connections to the I/O logic board.
4. Verify inverter cable is properly connected and that cable is good.
5. Verify cables are not pinched or severed.
6. Replace inverter board.
7. In the U.S., contact Apple Technical Support.
8. Replace display (international only).
9. Replace I/O logic board.
I don't think it's a backlight or inverter problem because you could still get video out to an external monitor. Have you tried a PRAM zap? Could be the display cable or connector.
 Cheers, Tom

Screen Share Issues, Black Screen

I'm trying to have someone share something in the Adobe Connect room as either a Host or a Presenter. There's a particular program that they're trying to share that is only available on full screen mode on their computer. Whenever it is being shared in the Adobe room, the screen share pod is completely black, but other things that are not full screen can be shared fine. Is there any fix for this?

Hi,
When it goes black, hold a flashlight up close at an angle, move it around... do you see a faint Deskrop?
If so the Backlight or inverter needs replacing.

Tecra 8100: solid vertical white & screen goes blank

Hello,
My Tecra 8100 has (or used to have) what seems to be a 'known fault': screen goes blank, can be got back by pressing fn+f5 or the little metal button.
It also acquired a solid vertical white line about 1mm wide and about 30mm from the left hand edge. I managed to stop the blanking (backlight?) problem (thankyou to those who replied to my previous, now locked, question!) by taking the cover off the screen and unplugging and replugging the inverter. So now the screen always stays on. Unfortunately the white line is still there, and whereas previously the screen was normal except for the line, now everything to the right of it (i.e. all but 1" of the screen) is just multicoloured stripes.
What do you think? I've been told that all the inverter does is power the backlight, which suggests the lines problem is something else. But they happened at the same time. Also, as far as I can remember, when I was fiddling about with the inverter connection the lines problem came and went (then came and stayed). Could it still be a bad inverter connection? Or a broken inverter? Or more likely to be something else?
cheers,
George

If it indeed is a loose connection its really no more difficult then when you undone the display to reconnect the inverter. A few more screws and you will be able to lift the display off the harness and check the connector in that connects the display to the inverter (not the white and pink wires, thats the inverter backlights, but the wire that plugs in to the left side of the inverter and goes up the back of the display and connects to it. It is a flat cable) When you reattach this cable if you choose not to take it to an ASP, make sure to tape it down good so it does not come loose again. After this if the problem is not resolved, your display is broken and will need to be replaced. It can be costly.

XPS One A2010 - No boot/Blank Screen

Hello,
I received a Dell XPS One A2010 machine that was updated with Windows 7. It worked for about a month but now when I power it on, I immediately hear the fans come to life, the power button on the left side of the monitor goes blue, as does the monitor screen button in the right hand corner on the front ... but I never get a picture. Have to hold the power button down for ten seconds in order to turn off the machine.
Here's what I've done so far:
-Held power button down for 15 seconds, let go. Pulled power from back of machine. Held power button down again for 15 seconds, let go. Opened up machine, removed motherboard battery, held power button down another 15-30 seconds. Waited about 30 minutes, put battery back in ... right side up ... closed up machine restarted.
-This time I actually got a screen to come up with messaging (see below):
[logo image for American Megatrends at top of screen with URL for www.ami.com]
Press F11 if you want to boot from the network
Press F12 for BBS POPUP
Initializing USB Controllers .. Done.
2048MB OK
USB Device(s): 1 Keyboard, 1 Mouse, 1 Hub
Auto-Detecting 3rd Master..IDE Hard Disk
3rd Master : WDC WD5000AAKS-75A7B0 01.03B01
Ultra DMA Mode-5, S.M.A.R.T. Capable but Disabled.
Auto-detecting USB Mass Storage Devices ..
00 USB mass storage devices found and configured.
ODD detect failure
CPU fan failure
System fan failure
COMS checksum error
CMOS Date/Time Not Set
Press F1 to Run SETUP
Press F2 to load default values and continue
So, I pressed F1 and ran through the SETUP, resetting the proper date and time. Also noticed the BIOS was 2.0.4, which is an earlier version. Decided not to update the BIOS after reading about others having issues with an updated BIOS on XPS One rigs. Saved my changes and was instructed to hit F10 in order to "Save My Changes and EXIT." Well, after hitting F10 my machine instantly went back to no picture with the fans still running.
Noticing the Fan Failure error messages, I turned off the machine, opened it up, took out and thoroughly cleaned all the fans. Then I took out the video card/heat sink all-in-one part to inspect it. Looked good from my eyes. Replaced everything and turned the machine on. Same thing. No picture, blue lights on again, and fans running.
Questions:
—Can I assume the problem is not the video card/heat sink since I received and can see those messages/instructions on my screen?
—Does it seem from my post that the motherboard is toast?
—Could this be an issue with the previous owner's IT department installing Windows 7 on a previous Windows Vista machine?
Any advice/suggestions/things to try/solutions would be most helpful. Trying desperately to get this machine up and running to give to my daughters by Christmas.
Many thanks,
Joe

I have replaced the power supply now and there is no change. I see a flash of the backlight when I initially power the system on, then the post beeps and nothing displayed.
To recap, initially the system would not post. I attributed this, correctly, to a failed video card. Replaced it and I'm reasonably certain I could boot into Windows though I couldn't see anything. There was appropriate POST beeps and hard drive activity light consistent with Windows booting. When I waited for the hard drive activity light to stop, I could then press the power button and there would be hard drive activity consistent with Windows shutting down and the system would power off.
I replaced the inverter, but I lost track of which power leads were connected where on the inverter board. (IF anyone knows where the pink and blue leads connect for certain PLEASE let me know). Anyway, no change.
I replaced the LCD. No change.
I replaced the motherboard. No change.
I replaced the CMOS battery with a new one. No change.
I cleared the BIOS config, now I can't boot into Windows but otherwise, no change.
Finally, I bought a power supply, as recommended, and replaced it and you guessed it, no change.
So I guess, besides maybe getting the inverter connected incorrectly, I have tried replacing every part that I could even remotely imagine could cause my issue. I have devoted a lot of time to figuring this out and I almost always solve a system problem. Help!?!

Backlight to Inverter Connection

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