Bad caps in G4 1.25 and 1.42 eMacs?
Do any of the G4 1.25 GHz and 1.42 GHz eMac models have the potentially bad caps in them?
If so, which specific models. If there is a web page, blog or other source for all this info, please link or list search keywords. Thanks.
G.P.
I bought an Apple 1.25 GHz G4 eMac in December 2004 and registered it as soon as the registration screen came up in the setup. I was never contacted by email, postal mail or phone about the bad caps problem. Since I don't have the time to read all the discussions, blogs, newsgroups and web sites that deal with these matters, I didn't discover that my computer might be affected until a few days ago. I will contact the Apple Store or call Apple to see if any remedy is still available. I'm not having problems with it, but I don't use it regularly enough to cause the heating that would pop the caps. I might just do it myself or take it to a local tech since it's a relatively simply problem to fix - once you get the logic board out.
If you have had a similar problem, please reply. I've had two posts on this subject deleted by a moderator - Apple apparently considers the matter closed. I received one reply that many had been affected by this problem and the poster agreed that Apple dropped the ball in terms of customer service on this one.
Similar Messages
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EMac monitor problem: bad caps or rastor shift or... ?
Something is wrong with my brother's eMac. About three years or so ago he had the bad caps (leaky capacitators) problem, and sent it off to Apple and got it repaired. But that wasn't the end of it. About a year ago the problem returned, though not in quite the same form. Originally, his eMac would freeze and get funny colours. This time if he has it set to anything higher than 256 colours the screen not only gets funny colours but appears to display twice (the top of the screen occurs again at the bottom, though it is hard to see in the pic). Here is pic:
The grey square in the middle is the cursor and it is selecting the monitor resolution/colors. The square surrounding it is the pull down menu which occurs again above it if you can make it out.
On 256 colurs, which is the only resolution he can work at, you get the following:
Here is a closer look:
It is only the small rectangles which are crazy colors - the rest is normal. Does this suggest that it is only one or two faulty caps, while the rest are fine? What else could this problem be?
Also, if we send it back to Apple, will they fix the problem again for free?Looks more like the video ram is (has) failed to me you could try Apple again but don't think it will get repaired for free and probably not worth the cost as if it's a 1.25Ghz machine it's now around 7 years old and the CRT will probably go belly up soon as well - sorry.
custom mini. -
I have an iMac G5 20" iSight 2.1GHz that stopped working. Made a loud pop one day and shut off. Upon restart it chimes, fan roars, and screen stays black. I've pulled the logic board and power supply for inspection. On the logic board one, and only one, capacitor has a domed top. All the others look like new.
On the power supply, none of the caps has a domed top, but one has what looks (and feels) like a fine gray ash covering half of its top.
I've read the many excellent sites helping with this repair, but I'm still unclear about a couple of things:
1- Do I replace only the obviously bad cap on the logic board, or is it necessary to replace all of them?
2-Any idea if the power supply cap I've described represents a bad cap?
3- And finally, I assume that at some point Apple stopped using these bad caps.
Any idea what model, or model year represents the start of a period when these bad caps were no longer being installed?
Thanks in advance.Hey Kaynray,
1- Do I replace only the obviously bad cap on the logic board, or is it necessary to replace all of them?
Well ultimately all the caps were probably from the capacitor plague but given the difficulty of replacing them I'd just do the one obviously bad one. These caps are mounted on huge ground planes and it takes a lot of heat to remove them. The danger there is too much heat will damage the board.
Use a desoldering iron like this:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731
Load the joint up w/ plenty of solder to give the sucking action purchase.
I just repaired a board that was missing two caps. They just weren't there. Must have been a refurb that was defective. Anyway I couldn't clean out the through hole eyelet and wound up drilling out the hole w/ a pin vice and a #60 drill. That's .040". Took 4 minutes for each hole.
2-Any idea if the power supply cap I've described represents a bad cap?
I wouldn't worry about that one unless there's the least amount of doming.
Of course I have an ESR (equivalent series resistance) meter to check just in case.
3- And finally, I assume that at some point Apple stopped using these bad caps.
Any idea what model, or model year represents the start of a period when these bad caps were no longer being installed?
Unfortunately these caps were and continued to be polluting the world market. The latest I've seen or heard of was in 2007 but it doesn't surprise me to find them in even newer products. As to Apple the iSight boards seem to be the most recent ones infected. We had 20 Dells at the school that had the same problem and they were all replaced but later 5 more showed up but Dell wouldn't make good on those. There were a average of 10 bad caps / board so those just got recycled.
Richard -
EMac constant freezing - no bad cap serial number. HELP please.
Hi,
I've had my eMac since about november 2004. It's been crashing occasionally for a while now but it's getting ridiculously regular now. Any time I use audio or video editing software or photoshop it freezes after a few minutes. Also it freezes when on safari or even on startup. I checked my serial number against the list of the infamous 'bad cap' eMacs and it doesn't match.
I just wondered if anyone could let me know the best thing to do. A previous housemate updated my OSX to 10.4.11 against my will and added some other dodgy software. Should i just reinstall my old 10.3.9 OSX?
Any help would be amazing as I can't afford to upgrade or take it into the shop!!
Cheers!Not very good news, Alex... Though not impossible.
Unless you are a very good soldering expert, handling the repairs yourself are probably not a good idea - in terms of replacing the bad caps yourself. There's more than just those 2 that you can see - I think about 10-12 - and if you could instead find a cheap replacement logic board, you need to be comfortable working around the insides of a CRT (ie television) which carry nasty voltages.
The best option is to call Apple directly, and tell them your eMac has just started showing the capacitor problem, covered by the eMac Repair Program, half hidden away on their support page:
www.apple.com
www.apple.com/support
www.apple.com/support/exchange_repair
www.apple.com/support/exchange_repair/emac.html
http://www.apple.com/support/emac/repairextensionprogram/
This Repair Program started in June 2006, 6 months after the eMacs started to fail from this problem. It offered a free repair to those affected. In your case, because your serial number is outside the range, they may say it's not covered, but just tell them that you've looked inside and SEEN the bad caps, leaking and bulging. The Program however only covered the eMacs for 3 years after date of purchase, which has now expired. HOWEVER as noted by mary, some people are still getting a free repair - you just need to be firm, and if the person you first speak to doesn't want to help, ask to speak to a supervisor. DON'T yell... remain calm... just be firm.
IF you can't get them to come to the party, find out what it will cost for parts & labour to get it repaired. The problem is you need the logic board (brains) of the computer replaced, and originally in 2006 the total cost was around $600 . You can buy these computers on eBay these days for a lot less than that... or a more recent Mac, for that matter.
Message was edited by: cosmichobo -
Okay, I will have a window open with 4 tabs open. At first, everything is fine, but after a day or so, a message will pop up on screen saying "'''Exc in ev handl: Error: Bad NPObject as private data!'''" and after you close it out, the tab you were on will close and reopen in it's own window. I then have to shut down all both old and new windows and open a new window with my original 4 tabs again. It will work fine until a few days pass and it starts over again.
This issue can be caused by the McAfee Site Advisor extension
*https://support.mozilla.com/kb/Troubleshooting+extensions+and+themes
Start Firefox in <u>[[Safe Mode]]</u> to check if one of the extensions or if hardware acceleration is causing the problem (switch to the DEFAULT theme: Firefox (Tools) > Add-ons > Appearance/Themes).
*Don't make any changes on the Safe mode start window.
*https://support.mozilla.com/kb/Safe+Mode -
When I phone people can hear me without any problem, but I hear very very bad. The sounds is metallic and it is very difficult to understand. Have anyone idea of what is it about. I guess is not a software problem but I am not an expert. Thanks in advance
Make sure that you allow pages to choose their colors and that you haven't enabled High Contrast in the Accessibility settings.
*Firefox > Preferences > Content : Fonts & Colors > Colors : [X] "Allow pages to choose their own colors, instead of my selections above"
See also:
*http://kb.mozillazine.org/Images_or_animations_do_not_load
*https://support.mozilla.org/kb/Images+or+animations+do+not+show -
Three keys of my keyboard are not working, the cap one, the return key and the space bar, while the virtual keyboard shows to others keys highlighted in orange (^ and `); How to fix it? I writing now with a bluetooth keyboard.
All new keyboards need Snow Leopard 10.6.8 and above for full functionality.
Rather short-sighted of Apple perhaps, but that seems to be a trend these days.
I'm afraid the only fix is to upgrade to SL. Personaly, I'd take it back and get a refund and seek an older keyboard or a third-party one elsewhere. -
Badi's, user exits, function modules and reports
Hi all,
Can anybody tell me the exact diff among Badi's, user exits, function modules and reports? I mean what are their functions?
thanksHi,
This is a beginners question,but still you can check the below links.
BAdis:
Regarding Enhancements/User-Exits in ABAP
http://help.sap.com/saphelp_nw04/helpdata/en/c8/1975cc43b111d1896f0000e8322d00/content.htm
http://help.sap.com/saphelp_nw04/helpdata/en/ee/a1d548892b11d295d60000e82de14a/content.htm
http://sap.ittoolbox.com/groups/technical-functional/sap-r3-dev/779183#
FM:
http://help.sap.com/saphelp_nw70/helpdata/en/9f/db988735c111d1829f0000e829fbfe/content.htm
Reports:
http://it.toolbox.com/wiki/index.php/How_many_types_of_reports_are_there_in_ABAP_and_what_is_the_difference_between_them%3F
Regards,
saurabh -
Does it mean that your airport express is bad when you plug it in and the light stays a steady(not bliinking) amber and my computer is unable to find it?
Thanks Bob for the respose. This is a unit that I have had and used for about a year. It was working perfectly, and then while being used, the green light all of a sudden went to solid amber and I haven't been able to get it green since. It does go green however for just a spilt second when plugged in and then returns right back to amber after it has been plugged in for a few moments. I have a feeling that it is history and is malfunctioning. I have tried a factory reset many times with no luck.
Regards,
TK -
Bad finish on the keys: escape and end call 9860
Bad finish on the keys: escape and end call. Apparently the physical keys are made by different suppliers, just bought a 9860 and these keys are being disarmed, they apperar to have a sticker
Bad finish on the keys: escape and end call. Apparently the physical keys are made by different suppliers, just bought a 9860 and these keys are being disarmed, they apperar to have a sticker
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used 2 days for download 1 magazine, it has been bad service from AIS ebook app and Matichon app.(download on high speed internet)
iOS 6 came out a couple of days ago, so Apple's servers have probably been busy as a result of people downloading it
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I believe my macbook pro hard drive is bad. I erased the drive and reinstalled the OS and the macbook still runs really slow. I dont know if the hard drive is the issue.
Did you try an SMC reset too? It's easily done and none of those resets to the best of my knowledge hurt anything. When I was fooling with my system, which at one point was a home made Fusion setup, I needed to reset the SMC sometimes to get the drives recognized. Reading the documentation the sudden motion sensor is drive related but that seems to be about it.
Some more specifics may be needed about the drive itself, the model number of your unit, and the OS version you're running.
At present, the problem seems sort of odd to me. FWIW cable problems can be quite intermittent. I used Scannerz to find some of the problems on my original system that I later converted to a new HD and SSD combo. It can find lots of problems if you learn how to use it right (HD problems, logic board system faults, and cable problems) but you need to get a system at least partially up and running to use it, and it doesn't sound to me like your there right now (in other words, don't go out and buy it because at this point I don't know how it could help you)
Another word of advice would be to not go out and start throwing parts at a problem unless you have a good idea what the source of the problem is. If you have a logic board problem, new drives and new cables won't make it go away, you'll just be wasting your money. Logic board problems, cable problems, and drive problems can all have very similar end user symptoms. The article that I linked above named "Hard Drive Problems" has a section on general symptoms of problems and if you read the article it becomes clear there's a lot of overlap associated with different types of problems.
I assume that your unit isn't under warranty. If, by chance it is I wouldn't even fool with it and I'd take it to Apple and let them deal with the problem. You also might want to check with whatever Apple sources you have available to test your system, like an Apple store, and see how much they'll charge (if anything) to evaluate the system.
I certainly hope this helps. -
K8NGM2-FID CPU core voltage Fluctuations and instabilities-- Bad caps!!?
I Have K8NGM2-FID bought 6 months ago and started having stability issues since last month.
Here is my configuration
K8NGM2-FID ver 2.0 Bios 3.73 now, used to be 3.5, experimented both, but did not help
Onboard video, Onboard Lan, firewire
Memory : 512 x 2 Corsair DDR400 in dual channel mode at 2.65v 64MB to Video
CPU: AMD64 X2 3800+
HDD WD 160GB SATA150
Winfast TV2000 Expert Tv Tuner
Drivers, tried many version ( currently using latest Nvidia Video, MB drivers)
Now, the description of the problem.
System suddenly hangs with or without load, intermittenly. Nothing to do what we are working on. Even when System is idle.
Hangs means, it could happend two ways,
1. simply it would not respond, screen simply freezes,
2. sometimes, you simply see horizantal lines on monitor( Typically happens when cpu core voltage drops below it can handle). I know this because
I am using RMClock on my Turion laptop, and when we try to find lowest stable voltage we see this behaviour.
Now, some other observation, from the day one CPU core voltage has been fluctuating a lot. Used to fluctuate anywhere between 1.37v to 1.304v( at default 1.35v). But still has been stable. Ran 24hour prime95, so no problems.
Recently I am seeing voltage fluctuations is more, as low as 1.28v to 1.39v at default 1.35v, so I tried RMCLock and raised the voltage to 1.4v, but it seems that did not help much.
Now, As per the MSI PCALert4 voltage is changing anywhere from 1.28v to 1.38v, but also I get core voltage field empty( that is right no CPU core voltage shown) and alarm sounds. It seems, CPU does not get voltage at all and gets very low voltage for a second or so.
Things I tried, Changed the powersupply, changed the Memory, but no use. I am lucky enough to have exact same configuration I built for a friend. So, I checked voltages on his PC and I do not see this behaviour.
Now, I ran out of options.... any idea anyone had similar problem, and if they solved?
Now, here are PCAlert 4 images
http://img171.imageshack.us/my.php?image=128vatdef135sp5.jpg
http://img256.imageshack.us/my.php?image=novoltageif5.jpg
http://img406.imageshack.us/my.php?image=132vredbi3.jpg
Also, another weird behaviour with Bios, even when I change setting in bios, they did not take effect, even loading default does not help, so I have to press CMOS reset button.
Any help will be appreciated.
ThanksThanks for the quick reply.
First to clarify, these things has been developed a monrh ago only. It has been fine for more than 5 months.
1). Yes Memory is insalled in closest DIMM sockets to CPU,
2). I think you mean mem voltage. The memory I have is Corsair Value series and it even runs fine DDR400 at 2.55v, but I bumped it to 2.65v and also tried 2.75v ( 2.65v is typical I have been using with this MB).
3). Memory has been tested with Memtest for 24 hours and ran Dual Prime95 for 24 hours when system is assembled.
Also swapped from another PC I built for my friend with same components( same corsair value series memory) Also tested my memory on his PC, no probs. BTW I also tested my memory at 333, freezing even happens even at that speed.
4). PSU has nothing to do, because I have been monitoring all PSU rails with SPeedFan none of of the rail voltages moved at all. I even monitored with Digital Multimeter to ensure. Anyways I even tried 3 psus, one ANtec 350W smart power supply, ThemalTake 420W, Ultra 400 Watts. All have more than enough juice to power this setup. (onboard Graphics card).
5). Yes, freezing happens in simply desktop too. Nothing to do with CPU load or graphics load. It could happen even when just idling.
6). I use stock CPU cooler in Antec 1650B case with 120MM Fan running in the back( approx 50cfm) and CPU temp never exceeded 47c and MB temp typically around 28c and NB temp around 50-60c using a digital probe and 55-70c using Nvidia Monitor based on load vs no load.
7). As per Dual core patches, I applied AMD Dual Core optimizer quite a while ago. As per the MS Patch, No I have not applied( But I doubt it helps because it has been stable without that for all these months). I may try that.
Now, what I am trying, I disabled CNQ, and logging Core voltage fluctuation with speedfan( no monitoring).
as of yesterday night the core voltage was varying from 1.28v to 1.39v( I think that is insane 110mv fluctuation in CPU core voltage!!?) at default CPU voltage of 1.35v. BTW it has nothing to with CPU load, all these logs generated when it was idle. I remember fluctuation even when MB was new, but lowest I observed was 1.304v.
SOmehow, I suspect VRM is pretty bad on this MB.
Anyways, see the response and let me know if you think I am missing somethings. Appreciate your help.
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New video problems after replacing bad cap
We are attempting to repair our first gen IMac G5 after it started having a problem with randomly shutting down. After much online research, and everything pointing towards bad capacitors, we opened up the machine and sure enough there was a bulging cap. We did the LED tests as well (fine), and ran hardware test (which also pointed to a problem on the logic board). After ringing the local Apple tech and confirming that they would only replace the whole board, not individual capacitors, we found a repair shop locally that was willing to solder on a new cap for us.
So we've put the whole machine back together today, and again the LEDs light fine. However, now, the video is totally messed up! It starts up as far as the login screen but it'd be impossible to log in as the screen is so badly scrambled.
Now we're trying to decide what the culprit is--incorrect reassembly? Accidental damage to the video cable during disassembly/assembly? Static electricity zapped the board at some point? Replacement cap not good enough (it's got a much higher uF and voltage rating but that seems to not be critical)?
Any pointers on how to proceed? We're loathe to throw in the towel just yet!Don't throw in the towel, take it back to your local tech and have her replace the cap with one of the proper rating.
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Disk usage seems to cap at 50% - System stalls and freezes.
Model: Samsung Series 7 Chronos (NP700Z5C-s03CA)
Manufacturer: Samsung Electronics
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3635QM CPU @ 2.40GHz
Installed Memory (RAM): 8.00 GB
System Type: 64-bit Operating System, x64-based processor
Windows Edition: 8.1
This issue has been happening for a while now. This is my "gaming laptop" and I currently
only play WoW. Yet even with my settings turned as low as I can get them my computer halts, stalls and completely freezes.
I've noticed that my computer NEVER goes above 50% disk usage. Almost as if its capped at 50%. And when it reaches 50% is when my
problems begin. Normally these programs have most of the usage when it randomly starts freezing at 50%.
- svchost.exe Service Host: Local System (Network Restricted)
- svchost.exe Service Host: Local Service (Network Restricted)
- IAStorIcon.exe IAStorIcon (32 bit)
I guess my issue is why is my disk usage capped to 50% and how do I fix this so it can utilizes all 100% ?"How did you check your disk usage?" I open my task manager
and look at it. http://imgur.com/ZtDUk1A
http://imgur.com/ffj37IU
Ran the "chkdsk" here is the results.
Microsoft Windows [Version 6.3.9600]
(c) 2013 Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved.
C:\WINDOWS\system32>chkdsk
The type of the file system is NTFS.
WARNING! F parameter not specified.
Running CHKDSK in read-only mode.
Stage 1: Examining basic file system structure ...
312576 file records processed.
File verification completed.
2842 large file records processed.
0 bad file records processed.
Stage 2: Examining file name linkage ...
374016 index entries processed.
Index verification completed.
0 unindexed files scanned.
0 unindexed files recovered.
Stage 3: Examining security descriptors ...
Security descriptor verification completed.
30721 data files processed.
CHKDSK is verifying Usn Journal...
34898944 USN bytes processed.
Usn Journal verification completed.
Windows has scanned the file system and found no problems.
No further action is required.
950891520 KB total disk space.
95164032 KB in 126881 files.
72396 KB in 30722 indexes.
0 KB in bad sectors.
444304 KB in use by the system.
65536 KB occupied by the log file.
855210788 KB available on disk.
4096 bytes in each allocation unit.
237722880 total allocation units on disk.
213802697 allocation units available on disk.
C:\WINDOWS\system32>chkdsk c:
The type of the file system is NTFS.
WARNING! F parameter not specified.
Running CHKDSK in read-only mode.
Stage 1: Examining basic file system structure ...
312576 file records processed.
File verification completed.
2842 large file records processed.
0 bad file records processed.
Stage 2: Examining file name linkage ...
374016 index entries processed.
Index verification completed.
0 unindexed files scanned.
0 unindexed files recovered.
Stage 3: Examining security descriptors ...
Security descriptor verification completed.
30721 data files processed.
CHKDSK is verifying Usn Journal...
35081856 USN bytes processed.
Usn Journal verification completed.
Windows has scanned the file system and found no problems.
No further action is required.
950891520 KB total disk space.
95217124 KB in 126944 files.
72404 KB in 30722 indexes.
0 KB in bad sectors.
444304 KB in use by the system.
65536 KB occupied by the log file.
855157688 KB available on disk.
4096 bytes in each allocation unit.
237722880 total allocation units on disk.
213789422 allocation units available on disk.
C:\WINDOWS\system32>
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