Bad color Management in iPhoto 11! makes it useless

Hi all,
the new version makes me crazy. I cannot go back to the old version because my library has updated.
I think the color management is completely different to the old version. If i compare a picture in iPhoto against the same displayed in Photoshop the black colors are much brighter in iPhoto! Also the fullscreen mode is not the same as before. Always there are some things which are not faded out (as before). But the color management problem is a mess.
Could somebody help me? I could provide an comparison example. How could I upload this easy (without using iPhoto :-))?
Thanks for your help.
Bernhard

Do you not have a backup copy of the 09 library that you can go back to?
Do you have a MobileMe account? If so put the photo in your iDisk/Web/Sites folder and use the following code to add it to a post:
Click to view full size
The following is an example of the code in use a comparison of a color calibration image in iPhoto 11 and Photoshop CS3:
Click to view full size
My eyes are probably a generation or so older than yours but I don't see any significant color difference. The PS version is not as sharp as it's at a 33% enlargement which does not smooth out as well as the iPhoto size does. In PS enlargements in steps of 25% are very sharp while those in between retain some jaggedness.
OT

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    iPhoto: Color, Black and White Prints Appear Garbled or Distorted
    For more information regarding iPhoto 5, please visit the following article:
    http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=165501
    Here are some of the technical specifications for the books, cards, and calendars. I hope this gives you an idea about their quality and form.
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    All iPhoto books are printed using acid-free paper for long-lasting image quality. The photos are printed at a high resolution (300DPI if you use iPhoto 6). There is no external modification--such as sharpening or contrast adjustment--of the photos; what you see in the application is what is printed in the book.
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    The cover is hard-bound and covered in linen. You select the linen color during the book-ordering process. The hardcover books have a solid, stiff binding that is glued and crimped. The internal pages, measuring 8.5 x 11 inches, are printed on McCoy 100# Text Gloss paper stock.
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    The softcover books come in three sizes:
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    - Medium 6 x 8 inches
    - Small 2.6 x 3.5 inches
    All of the softcover books have internal pages that are printed on McCoy 100# Text Gloss paper stock. The large softcover book has a white cover (Kromekoteplus Folding Cover, 16 point) with a cutout on the front that reveals the cover-page photo in the book. The covers for the medium and small softcover books have the cover image and title printed directly on the cover. All of the softcover books have a glued binding and feature a thick cover of McCoy 100# Cover Gloss paper stock.
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    All cards are printed on McCoy 120# Silk Cover paper stock. The postcards measure 4 x 6 inches, and the greeting cards measure 5 x 7inches.
    CALENDARS
    All calendars measure 8 x 10 inches and are printed on McCoy 100# Silk Cover paper stock.
    To ensure the best print quality, we have chosen to use Kodak NexPress technology. The press uses a dry toner, which is fused to the surface of the paper. Please see NexPress' site for more information:
    KODAK NEXPRESS 2500 Digital Production Color Press
    I hope you find this information helpful in answering questions on the iPhoto forum."
    Do you Twango?
    TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
    I've written an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 08 libraries. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.

  • CS3 color management won't match prints

    Okay, I know there are a lot of boneheds who can't figure out how to set up color in Bridge and CS3 but I am at my wits end on this so bear me out.
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    Bridge is set to; Enable color management in Bridge
    RAW conversion is SRGB
    CS3 color settings/working space set to SRGB
    Print color management is set to SRGB and Photoshop manages colors
    Printer is set to "application manages colors" (HP B9180)(btw, I have also tried it set to SRGB)
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    That's pretty much it David... I could get Photoshop to match my prints but then any other program would show the prints as being waaaay off-color.
    Today I bought a spider2express and color balanced my monitor. Now everything seems to look in sync and my prints match very close (a little warm for my tastes..). Tech support at Photoshop told me it was a calibration issue but I thought that was bull... i mean, how can calibration make an image that looks different in two different programs look the same? Well, it does. As far as I understand it now (layman's terms)when you look at an image in windows viewer ot explorer or any other non-color management program you are looking at the image based on your monitor profile. When you look at the same image in photoshop the program uses it's own color management which then gets filtered through your monitor program to your eyes (but not to the printer). If your monitor profile is bad, the image looks bad.
    Or something like that :)

  • How do I turn off color management in Photoshop 5?

    There are three selections, only the first two clickable, in PS5 under Color Management in the Print dialouge:
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    Photoshop Manages Color
    Separations (grayed out/unclickable)
    Under Printer Manages Colors - there is no option to turn off color management for my Canon 9500 Mark ii
    Under Photoshop Manages Color - there is no option to choose "No Color Management"
    You can chose "No Color Management" in PS3, but not PS5? What happened to this option?
    How is it possible to create a profile from a print of color swatches if I can not turn off color management?
    (I am running Mac OS 10.6.4)
    PS> this is the second time I'm contacting Adobe. First was by phone but I couldn't understand the message left on my voice mail after the phone technician had to ask for help from upper management - the english was so bad. I'm hoping by the written word I'll be able to understand. Please help.

    I have researched the matter a lot and I, 
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    subject.
    Color management is as simple in theory as Honoring a Source Profile and CONVERTING it to a Target Profile (monitor or printer) for Proofing.
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  • Color Management Confusion-Photoshop and monitors

    Ok, so I am asking this question because I am literally at my wits end with this color management stuff. I have become so confused in the past few days that I can’t even think straight. Anyway, I am hoping you all can help me “understand” how it all work. Let me start with some background information (since I know it will probably be asked)
    am a photographer, I utilize Lightroom 4 and CS3 (I know its old but I am planning on getting CS6 soon).
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    also will be sending my pictures to print at mpix or whcc. I may decide to print my own but haven’t really made that determination at this point.
    have a mac book pro that I work from.
    Ok, so I need to get a monitor to work with but I am unsure if I should just buy the thunderbolt mac monitor or get a wide gamut monitor. I have heard so many people say that the wide gamut monitors just messed them up. Also, I am bit confused on the nature of monitor profiles and how they work with photoshop and lightroom. I would assume the monitor applies a profile at all times? I also don’t understand the existence of the prophoto and wide gamut profiles for the mac monitors… they clearly are not wide-gamut monitors, so how do these profiles exist for them, and why would they be useful (if you set the profile to prophoto for example, it is all washed out as expected). Are these profiles “assigning” a profile to the color? I am assuming so because if they were converting them to just a standard rgb then you wouldn’t have the faded colors (correct?).
    I just am so nervous that I am going to create something that looks great in Lightroom or Photoshop but that looks awful on the browser, or worse, on a different monitor (standard monitor) and I would have no idea that it looked bad. Or, if I send something to a printer only to get a mess back.
    Also, please let me know if I correct in this. If I am in photoshop and I have an untagged image (send via a friend), and lets just say it is really a prophoto image (although my friend didn’t tell me) and I say to assign the prophoto profile (upon import to photoshop). If that truly is the correct profile, the image should look correct. Now consider two scenarios from there: 1) I embed that profile in the image, if I upload that to the web (I know to be cautious, you should always use srgb for web), if the person has a color managed browser, the image would properly appear, because the browser would recognize the profile (in this case “prophoto”) and convert it to whatever it needed to be. But, if it was not a color managed browser, I run the risk that the web browser will just assign a profile, which will wash the photo out most likely, correct? Ok… and scenario 2) after I get the image from my friend and assign the prophoto profile (since that is the correct profile the image was actually created in, although it was untagged when it was sent to me), the image will look correct… BUT, is photoshop displaying the prophoto profile, or is it converting to RGB for my viewing, or is my monitor converting it to rgb for my viewing? I guess I just don’t understand how the monitor fits into all of this. You HAVE to use your monitor to see your images, and since most monitors (including my current one are standard gamut) it would make sense that you actually can’t see anything in the prophoto profile, and you are truly looking at an srgb profile since that is all your monitor can display.
    Oh ya, and what benefit is the color match rgb? It seems everyone speaks of the srgb, prophoto, and argb.. but never some of the others.. so maybe I am just lost. I would even appreciate a link to some tutorials if you think those would be helpful.
    I am seriously confused.. I would really appreciate the help.

    I am not surprised you are confused about colour management because its a confusing subject. Luckily you own a Mac so you can get to grips with what the problems that colour management solves using the "colorSync Utility" and you will find this in Applications >> Utilities >> colorSync Utility. If you own a windows computer then I am sorry but you will be out of luck here and you should know better when you buy your next computer!! I am not sure why Apple gave us this application but it is really useful and all will help you understand Color Management.
    1. Launch Applications >> Utilities >> ColorSync Utility.
    2. You will see a list of "Installed ColorSync Profiles". Choose Adobe RGB 1998 which I hope you have chosen in you camera preferences.
    3.You will see a 3D representation of the Adobe 1998 Colour space. This represents all the colors this colour space will hold.
    4. Top left hand corner you will see a little arrow pointing down next to "Lab Plot". Click on this and a drop down menu will appear.
        Choose "Hold For Comparison"
    5. Now somewhere in the "Installed ColorSync Profiles" list you will find the profile for you monitor. Choose this.
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    inside the Adobe 1998 profile. This means that you monitor cannot show you all the colors that are missing.
    7. Now choose a printer profile say, if you use them a profile for an Epson paper or any printer profile you have and you will see another profile in the Adobe 1998 box which shows you the only colors that your printer can print. If you like choose your monitor profile then hold for comparison then the printer profile and it will clearly show the mis match between you monitor and printer.
    8. Now choose SRGB and this will show you what colors a person using an average Windows monitor can see, poor people.
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    Say you camera can produce a specific red we will call for demo purposes "001" and your monitor cannot produce it, how do you solve this? Well it is very easy to fool our eyes. Our eyes work by comparison so if the profile maps red "001 to the nearest red that the monitor can show and then proportionally remaps all other reds to fit within the reds the monitor can show us then we actually think we are seeing a full range of reds. The problem comes if we use the wrong profile for this. The red 001 could be re mapped anywhere and could be outside what the monitor can show. Say that happens but the printer can reproduce that red 001. We would see an image on the monitor with not many reds and when we printed it we would be shocked to find reds on the print. Worst, we would see an image on the monitor without reds and would correct for this and end up with a print with heavy reds and would not be able to work out why.
    So to solve this we should:
    1. use the correct camera profile when we are opening "Raw" files.
    2. Make sure you have the correct monitor ICC profile selected in "System Preferences" >> Displays.
    3. In photoshop we should make sure that the " Edit >> colour settings " are set to Adobe 1998 for RGB.
    4. If you are going to print you own photo in Photoshop go to "View >> Proof Setup >> Custom" and a box will
    open. Choose the profile of your printer and paper and choose "Perceptual" for rendering intent and then " OK". If you cannot find
    a profile for you printer and paper go to the printer of paper manufactures web site and download the profiles and instal
    them.
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    are using an outside printing house, they will supply you with their ICC profile to download so just follow the same procedure and
    choose their ICC profile and and do you colour correction.
    If you have a cheap monitor you will still not get a 100% result but you will get closer. You really need a monitor that you can  calibrate
    regularly because generic ICC profiles are just that. They are made from the results of many monitors and so are 90% or worse accurate.
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    to the bottom of the page and download the Eizo Coloredge CG223W monitor profile, instal it on your mac then open then ope
    Launch Applications >> Utilities >> ColorSync Utility choose Adobe 1998 the hold and compare it with the  Eizo Coloredge CG223W
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    The weak link still is printing. The colors you see in RGB on a back lit RGB screen are very hard to reproduce by CYMK inks on paper. Here you really should have a profile made for your printer and chosen paper. If you don't want the expense of buying a calibrator and doing it yourself, there are on line services that will do this for you.
    One final point you must remember. If you are using soft proofing in Photoshop ( "View >> Proof Setup >> Custom" as explained above), when you print you MUST choose in "Colour Handling" "Photoshop Manages Colour" and in the next step when the printing box appears
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    This is a starting point really. Colour management is difficult but just try to remember that you need a translator between each step in the process to make it work so you have to make sure the correct profiles are being used by you camera, the program you use for opening the Raw photo files (Please don't use jpegs straight from the camera, but thats another subject), the correct monitor profile and output profile. If you don't check these it is like chinese whispers and your picture will be printed in Double Dutch!!.
    Hope that helps. I am on location In Italy for a couple of months so will be unlikely to be able to reply to any questions for a while. Will try to check back and see how you are getting on. Drop me a line at [email protected] if you have any questions. Good luck.
    Paul Williams

  • Bad color in PSE working window

    When I bring up an image to edit in PSE it's always dark and off toward the red or orange.  But, when Iook at that same inage file with another inage viewing program, then the colors look alright.  Can someone tell me how to fix this?
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