Bad Sectors counts and repair

I have my MBP since 3 months; and notice that i have 17 Pending Bad sectors and 6 re-allocated bad sectors; so is this counts are normal or for any HDD or there are Limit no. should not exceed of Bad sectors before we diagnose as failing or failed HHD. and how i can repair it if it possible... thanks.
notice: i didn't heard any noise or freezing screen...

Where do you get this information? Disk Utility does not report such information unless a hardware error is detected. In this case you may see that the SMART report shows the drive as "Failing" rather than "Verified." If the drive truly has bad sectors then the it needs to be replaced. That means taking the computer in for repair since it's still in warranty.

Similar Messages

Migrating from HDD with bad sectors to SSD

My mid-2010 Macbook pro running OSX 10.6.8 (Snow Leopard) has been extremely slow. It passes Disk Utility's Verify Disk step but when I brought it to the Apple store, it failed the diagnostic tests they ran with their ethernet cable. There were bad sectors detected and they figured this was what was slowing me down.
So I decided to switch to an SSD but I have questions about how to restore my files. I tried cloning my HD to an external drive with both Disk Utility's restore and using asr on the command line. In both cases I get an error at the very end
"Checksum failed. Could not restore - cannot allocate memory"
I'm still able to boot from the external drive that was created though. I was also (recently) able to create a Time Machine backup with no error messages. So my question is
1. What is the best way to restore my files?
a) Using the (possibly corrupt) HD clone
b) reinstalling from the OSX Installation DVD and restoring with Time Machine
c) Something else like Carbon Copy Clone

montburns,
Only by doing file-by-file examination against a known good copy, or relying upon a batch process which generates a “I couldn’t copy these” file list (and in the latter case, presuming that the list is due solely to bad sectors).
It means i) — either to put your internal drive in an external enclosure, or to attach it to a SATA-to-USB or SATA-to-FireWire adapter, then connecting it to the appropriate external port, and then using Startup Manager to select it as the boot drive.
If you have appropriate software, you could, but I’m not familiar with what’s available on OS X — I hope that other people can offer a list of apps from which you could choose.
Between ddrescue and rsync, I’d choose ddrescue for copying from a potentially faulty disk. To my knowledge, rsync will just copy whatever it finds; but if it creates a list of “I couldn’t copy these” files, then that could be a way to find out where bad sectors might be having an effect.

Bad Sectors, Frequent Resets, and Useless Restores

Hello all,
After much effort to restore my iPod back to its original happy state, it has refused to emerge from its purgatory. Right now, this is its status: iPod refuses to sync more than 1.45GB of data (it has 80GB capacity), iPod refuses to restore properly (problems such as various errors, -1418, -40, -50 are not resolved), upon proper ejection, iPod resets itself before the timer runs out.
I have attempted restoration from various states, Disk Mode, Regular Mode. I have attempted to repair the disk with the disk check utility. Nothing has changed.
And here's some more monkey's to throw in the barrel. Right now I do not live conveniently near an Apple Store, Santa Barbara. Also, I will be leaving the country soon, to Japan.
Here are my questions. What, if anything, may I do to resolve this issue, by myself? If that isn't the case, most likely, would going to an Apple store be troublesome if I had to go to a different city, San Francisco? (with a receipt from the retailer I purchased the iPod, Amazon.com) And, more ludicrous I can assume, would I be able to take care of this issue while in Japan, if the repair cannot be done in a timely fashion?
Sorry for the length and complexity of this issue.

These proceedures might work for you. For best results it might pay to disconnect any unnecessary USB devices & power-cycle your computer before starting to eliminate potential driver clashes.
*Checking hard-drive for errors*
Hold Menu+Select on your iPod for about 6 seconds until it resets, then hold Menu+Play as soon as the Apple logo appears, again for about 6 seconds to put the machine in disk mode. Connect to your computer, closing iTunes if it opens. Browse *My Computer* and right-click on the drive for the iPod, click Properties, then click Tools. Under Error-checking, click *Check Now*. Under Check disk options, select *Scan for and attempt recovery of bad sectors* (Optional - takes ages but a good idea if you've reason to suspect physical damage). Click Start. Mac users should run *Disk Utility / Repair Disk* for the equivalent process. This should find and correct any errors in the logical & physical structures of your iPod's hard drive. Once these have been fixed you can reset the iPod (hold Menu+Select ) and should stand a better chance of a successful restore.
Once you've restored your iPod don't rush to dump all the data back exactly as it was before. Complex smart playlists can sometimes trigger constant reboots or dumping of the iPod's library. In addition, larger transfers can fail leaving data in an inconsistent state. Try this technique for populating the iPod in stages.
*Break up large transfers*
In iTunes select the menu item *File... New Smart Playlist*. Change the first drop-down box to Playlist, the next to is and the next to Music. Tick against *Limit to*, type in say 10, then change the drop-down to GB, and set the last drop-down to artist. When you click OK you can enter a name for the playlist, e.g. Transfer. Now sync this playlist to your iPod rather than your entire library. When the sync is complete disconect the iPod & check that it can play the music you've downloaded to it. Now modify the rule ( *File... Edit playlist* ) to increase the size by your chosen amount, then sync and repeat. You can experiment with different size increments, if it doesn't work just choose something a bit smaller until it works each time. Before long you should have all your music on your iPod. Once that's done you can move on to other media such as podcasts, videos, photos etc. and put back any playlists that you want on the iPod.
tt2

Battery replaced, now bad sectors and reboot in order to use

I think I made a mistake by taking my ipod 30gb classic to a local computer repair shop to have the battery replaced. Ever since I got it back I have to do a reset or reboot(middle button and menu button to reboot it) in order to use it. Did they ruin it? I brought it back and they told me now I have 70 bad sectors on the hard drive, it was running fine before the new battery. Thanks!

Unfortunately as it is removable for access to SIM/memory card it is a wear and tear item and perhaps time to treat yourself to a different colour back if one of the "lugs" has now broken off: Won't two elastic bands suffice for now?
Happy to have helped forum in a small way with a Support Ratio = 37.0

A135-S2326 replacing hard drive (bad sectors) Need advice and opinions Please

Hi, (note pic below of my computers actual specs from this morning)
I have a Satellite A135-S2326. It has the max memory at 2GB, it came with 512 and I upgraded to 2GB. It runs Windows Vista Home Edition...
Anyhow, it accidentally fell off my bed a few days ago (darn dogs) and damaged my hard drive. Boot problems, errors, bad sectors, etc. I have tried everything to fix and to no avail. While I am currently using it I know I need to replace the hard drive ASAP before I can't turn it on at all one day... I am now saving all my files and stuff I need off of it to an external drive. The laptop did not come with a windows Vista restore CD so I am using Acronis software to make an image of the hard disc, hopefully it will work and I won't have to purchase my own copy of windows Vista.
Some questions I have are:
1.) Is it possible to upgrade the hard drive to a faster one / better one when I replace?
     The hard drive that came preinstalled is a Hitachi HTS541680J9SA00 80GB, which I believe from spec's documentation is a 5400RPM Serial- ATA ???
     What is the max size I can get for replacement and what is the max RPM, or do I HAVE to use a 5400RPM???
     What do you suggest?
2.) I have a copy of windows XP Professional w/SP2. Is it possible to put this windows XP Pro.w/SP2 on a fresh hard drive in the Satellite A135-S2326? If so, is there a different hard drive that I must have to do that? Also if an XP install is possible on a new hard drive, which drivers must I have for this laptop when I do it??
3.) And finally, could this laptop handle windows 7 business? Only asking because I can get a VERY cheap copy of windows 7 business from my school...I'm in college at DeVry and can get a copy of Windows 7 delivered to my door in 2 weeks for less then $30.00. So thought that MAY be an option....??? Not sure if my other spec's can handle it though???
4.) What would you suggest I do with the options I have, what is best thing to do in your opinion??
      Please see pic below of my actual computers specs from this morning, using Belarc Advisor...
Thank you in advance
Any help is GREATLY appreciated
Urgently waiting replies,
Tina from Florida
(tinafromflorida)
Computer Profile Summary
Computer Name:
Beanersputer (in MSHOME)
Profile Date:
Monday, September 21, 2009 9:29:54 AM
Advisor Version:
7.2x
Windows Logon:
nello
Operating System
System Model
Windows Vista Home Basic Service Pack 2 (build 6002)
TOSHIBA Satellite A135 PSAD6U-01800D
System Serial Number: 37334232K
Enclosure Type: Notebook
Processor a
Main Circuit Board b
1.60 gigahertz Intel Celeron M 520
64 kilobyte primary memory cache
1024 kilobyte secondary memory cache
Board: TOSHIBA IAYAA 1.00
BIOS: TOSHIBA V1.20 03/06/2007
Drives
Memory Modules c,d
78.45 Gigabytes Usable Hard Drive Capacity
13.51 Gigabytes Hard Drive Free Space
MAT**bleep**A DVD-RAM UJ-850S ATA Device [CD-ROM drive]
Hitachi HTS541680J9SA00 [Hard drive] (80.03 GB) -- drive 0, s/n SB2204SGCULZ6E, rev SB2OC7DP, SMART Status: Healthy
1918 Megabytes Installed Memory
Slot 'J401' is Empty
Slot 'J400' has 2048 MB
Local Drive Volumes
c: (NTFS on drive 0)
78.45 GB
13.51 GB free
Network Drives
None detected
Users (mouse over user name for details)
Printers
local user accounts
last logon
nello
9/21/2009 9:17:22 AM
(admin)
local system accounts
    Administrator
9/1/2007 9:32:47 PM
(admin)
Guest
9/12/2009 1:14:34 AM
Marks a disabled account;   Marks a locked account
Adobe PDF Converter
on Documents\*.pdf
Microsoft XPS Document Writer
on XPSPort:
Send To Microsoft OneNote Driver
on Send To Microsoft OneNote Port:
Controllers
Display
IDE Channel [Controller] (4x)
Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller (2x)
ATI RADEON XPRESS 200M Series [Display adapter]
Generic PnP Monitor (19.7"vis)
Bus Adapters
Multimedia
ENE CB1410 Cardbus Controller
Microsoft iSCSI Initiator
ATI I/O Communications Processor USB 1.1 OHCI controller (2x)
ATI I/O Communications Processor USB 2.0 EHCI controller
Realtek High Definition Audio
Communications
Other Devices
TOSHIBA Software Modem
6TO4 Adapter
6TO4 Adapter
6TO4 Adapter
6TO4 Adapter
6TO4 Adapter
Atheros AR5006EG Wireless Network Adapter
isatap.domain_not_set.invalid
isatap.gateway.2wire.net
isatap.launchmodem.com
isatap.
Microsoft 6to4 Adapter #2
Microsoft 6to4 Adapter #3
Microsoft 6to4 Adapter #4
Microsoft 6to4 Adapter #5
Microsoft 6to4 Adapter #6
Microsoft ISATAP Adapter #2
Microsoft ISATAP Adapter #3
Microsoft ISATAP Adapter #4
Microsoft ISATAP Adapter #5
Microsoft ISATAP Adapter #6
Microsoft ISATAP Adapter #7
Realtek RTL8139/810x Family Fast Ethernet NIC
Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface
Networking Dns Server:
Acronis Backup Archive Explorer
Microsoft AC Adapter
Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery
Logitech Driver Interface (2x)
HID-compliant consumer control device
HID-compliant device (2x)
USB Human Interface Device (2x)
Standard PS/2 Keyboard
Logitech HID-compliant Cordless Mouse
Synaptics PS/2 Port TouchPad [Mouse]
USB Composite Device
USB Root Hub (3x)
Generic volume shadow copy

You can use ANY 2.5" SATA hard drive of any size in that system. I would recommend one of the Western Digital Scorpio BLue's as they are reliable and offer good performance.
If it runs Vista it will run Windows 7. I would wait a bit before trying Win7 though as Toshiba hasn't released all of the Windows 7 drivers yet.
As for Windows XP, while it is possible to install XP on that system (and quite easily for that matter) Toshiba doesn't provide any of the XP drivers needed to get it to run properly. You could determine all of the various chipsets the system uses and go to each chipsat manufacturer's support site to see if they provide an XP driver to get it working, but I don't guarantee that they have all of the needed drivers. If you do decide to go ahead with this let me know and I'll post the directions for installing XP onto a SATA hard drive that doesn't ahve a floppy drive.
Right now your best choice is to replace the old hard drive and restore the system from your Acronis image. When ALL of the Windows 7 drivers become available you could install it in a dual boot configuration to determine if you prefer it or not. It is both a step up and a step back from Windows Vista. Some people will like it while others won't. Only you will be able to determine which you prefer.
If you don't post your COMPLETE model number it's very difficult to assist you. Please try to post in complete sentences with punctuation, capitals, and correct spelling. Toshiba does NOT provide any direct support in these forums. All support is User to User in their spare time.

I bought a brand new Mac 27" desktop that came loaded with Adobe CS6. Everything worked like a charm until the hard drive, 1Tb, developed a bad sector and the Apple Store reinstalled a new one as I had extended warranty with them. The recycled the drive i

I bought a brand new Mac 27" desktop that came loaded with Adobe CS6. Everything worked like a charm until the hard drive, 1Tb, developed a bad sector and the Apple Store reinstalled a new one as I had extended warranty with them. They recycled the drive immediately (like a fool I didn't ask for it back to get the data off it.) But luckily I have all my data on CrashPlan. I downloaded it and it worked great except I downloaded it to the desktop and not the original location so it got squirrely. I also have an external 1.5Tb drive that I wanted to make bootable so I installed Mavericks 10.9.3 . I then went ahead and installed it on the newly installed drive too.
I think that because I have a new drive Adobe thinks I have a news computer. I bought the 27" Mac brand new from Ebay and it came loaded with software, including CS6. I have a serial number for CS6 but Adobe said it wasn't valid. (I have owned CS2, CS4 and now CS6 which came preloaded onto the Mac by the seller who told me that the software was registered to the Mac???
I am going to re-download the backup but this time to the original location (I still don't think it will work with Adobe. What can I do about this?
iMac 27-inch, Late 2012
Processor 3.2 GHz Intel Core i5
Memory 32 GB 1600 MHz DDR3
Graphics NVIDIA GeForce GTX 675MX 1024 MB
Software OS X 10.9.3 (13D65)@

You need to contact Adobe Support either by chat or via phone when you have serial number and activation issues.
Here is a link to a page with options to help make contact:
http://www.adobe.com/support/download-install/supportinfo/

Need to backup NTFS drive with bad sectors and restore to new drive

So far what I've tried is downloading clonezilla and I've tried a drive to drive clone, what this resulted in was the new drive thinking it had bad sectors just like the old. SO since each time I attempt this it eats 2-3 hours of my time and I have to leave soon to go back to school, I don't exactly have all the time in the world; what is the recommended course of action here?
What i've been reading up on is possibly doing a clone to image file? From what I understand a clone to image will not copy over bad sectors (there is very small amount in this drive at this time, not worried about a massive amount of corrupted files) and instead just leaves the files that existed in the sectors corrupted on the new drive. Is this true? How do I go about this correctly so I can successfully re-image to my new drive?
Would like to note I'm trying to backup the entire DRIVE, not just the main partition, boot sector and all.
edit:
Before anyone suggests running chkdsk /r /f in windows I've done this, partition is still giving me reports of bad sectors. This gives me the idea this drive is on its way out and I'm trying to limit my attempts at cloning the entire thing at this point so I dont further my problem, someone has had to have delt with this before?
Last edited by whaevr (2014-02-10 00:14:33)

I've had good success with dd_rescue in the past. The default behavior of dd_rescue is to skip sectors it cannot read (see the man page for a more precise explanation of its behavior). However, it's fairly simple minded, and requires manual intervention if you want to try to maximize the amount of data you recover.
It seems the new hotness is ddrescue, a gnu project apart from dd_rescue which provides a number of improvements. Most notably, It seems to imbue dd_rescue with greater levels of sophistication to make it capable of recovering more data with greater levels of efficiency, reducing strain on the failing drive.
If I were to recover a drive now, I'd probably give ddrescue a whirl.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by hezekiah (2014-02-10 04:28:19)

[SOLVED] Completly format a second HDD, and mark bad sectors.

Hi, all!
I couldn't see a more appropriate place to post this, as it didn't seem right to put it in 'Kernel/ Hardware'. My apologies if it is in the wrong place.
I have a second hard disk drive in my PC and when I use it, it occasionally gives 'bad sector' errors. The hard drive is not currently used, but until I buy a replacement, I was wondering whether it is possible to do a 'deep' format of the disk, which would mark bad sectors. These sectors could then be ignored by future installations.
Is this possible?
Would I have to do it as part of normal partitioning, ie, when setting-up ext4 partitions, etc?
I'd prefer to mark the sectors at a deeper evel, so I don't have to think about it when I do future installs on that disk.
Any help/ advice appreciated.
Chris.
Last edited by chris_debian (2011-02-06 16:15:56)

If the disk you are planning to use already has bad sectors visible to the user then you better get rid of it. Modern hard disks automatically reallocate bad sectors when they are found, if too many bad sectors have been found and there are no more spare sectors to reallocate the bad ones then it's way past time to replace the disk.
That said, you can always tell mkfs.whatever to search for and avoid damaged sectors (mkfs.whatever will call badblocks to search for and report the damaged sectors). You will be gambling with your data though, because it is quite probable that more bad sectors will develop over time.

Fixing sluggishness with SMART Utility reading: "1 Reallocated bad sector, and 6 errors"

Specs are as follows for Macbook Pro 15" late 2008:
Processor: 2.93 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
Memory: 4 GB 1067 MHz DDR3
Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce 9400M 256 MB
Software: OS X 10.9.5
As instructed in other discussions, due to sluggishness (apps loading slowly, web development tasks requiring significant loading downtime) of my recently acquired Macbook Pro 15" late 2008, I've installed Volitans-Software's SMART Utility tool, and the results are that I have are:
1 reallocated bad sector
6 total errors (last error type uncorrectable, prior command READ DMA EXT)
My question therefore is, to fix the sluggishness, to the end of making this a responsive web-development machine, what should I do?
Insofar as I've researched, I see my current options as
Upgrade the RAM to 8GB
Do the above and replace the drive
Do some kind of factory reset or electrickery to fix the sluggishness.
I'll happily provide more info required: Any and all advice would be appreciated

My opinion: Backup, then replace the drive. Increasing the ram may be a good thing too, but unless you're really pushing things 4 gigs of memory should be sufficient, and if that's the original drive then it's high time to replace it anyway. Besides, it will only cost you maybe a hundred bucks and less than an hour of work.
Also, check how full your drive is. If you only have a few gigabytes left it can start to slow things down. Some people recommend that you keep 5% of the drive free at all times for system use; I usually suggest from 1 to 2 times the amount of installed ram.

New Satellite C660 - Rattles and has Bad Sectors?

Hi, I have just bought a C660, but I'm a bit concerned by a couple of things.
First, every time I type there's a rattling noise coming from within the laptop - that doesn't seem right, but I thought I'd check whether everyone has that?
Second, the hard disk reports more than 2,700 bad sectors in it's SMART data. For a brand new disk this seems very poor! Have I got one that's been dropped or something?
Thanks in advance for any comments!
Mark

Hi
The strange noise might be coming from the HDD. This would also explain the bad sectors on the HDD.
Try to test the HDD using an tool like Drive Fitness Test. Its freeware so you can download this from different pages
If some problems would be detected I would recommend replacing the HDD.
Warranty seems to be valid, so ASP should be contacted to get such HDD

Problem with recovering data from Bit Locker enabled hard disk with bad sectors

Hi,
I have Lenovo T430 laptop with Windows 7 and Bit Locker enabled hard disk. While working I encountered blue screen error multiple times. After some time, the laptop stopped to boot by itself and started showing error 'A disk read write error has occurred.
Press Ctrl+Alt+Del to restart' message. I tried to connect the hard disk to a different PC as a secondary drive and tried to check the disk to recover the data. The 500 GB disk is showing as unallocated space and I am not sure how to recover the
data from the hard disk. Appreciate your help to recover the data from corrupted hard disk.
I used the Lenovo Diagnostics tools available in BIOS and it showed 48 bad sector errors on the hard disk. I also used Windows 7 CD and tried auto repair but it looks like it didn't do anything.
Thanks in advance!

Hi SenneVL,
Since there are 48 bad sectors on your hard disk, this means the system can not boot any more, the data might not be restored in a normal way, you'd better turn to data restore company for help.
Regards
Wade Liu
TechNet Community Support

How do I check for bad sectors on the hard drive? (Need help soon!)

I've asked this in a different thread but am not getting exactly the question answered completely. I need to run a check on my drive that will test each sector and if a bad sector is found, it will block that sector from being written to with data in the future.
I used to use Disk First Aid or Apple HD Setup or Norton Utilities to do this. Norton does not appear to be made for Mac OSX 10.4.4 and those other utilities appear to be System 9 and earlier utilities only.
Is there some way of doing this with current Apple tools? My original post is at http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=1592160#1592160
Thank you. I've been down since Saturday and really need to get an answer so I can move forward and get my computer back up and running.

There is only one way to do this. Make a bootable backup of your drive to an external Firewire drive (you can use the Restore option of Disk Utility.) Then do the following:
1 Boot from your Tiger DVD. After the installer loads select Disk Utility from the Utilities.
2. After DU loads select your hard drive (this is the entry with the mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Click on the Partition tab in the DU main window.
3. Set the number of partitions from the dropdown menu (use 1 partition unless you wish to make more.) Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled, if supported.) Click on the Partition button and wait until the volume(s) mount on the Desktop.
4. Select the volume you just created (this is the sub-entry under the drive entry) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window.
5. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled, if supported.) Click on the Options button, check the button for Zero Data and click on OK to return to the Erase window.
6. Click on the Erase button. The format process will take 30 minutes to an hour or more depending upon the drive size.
By reformatting using the Zero Data option DU will force checking for bad blocks.
If you wish to forego the above procedure you can purchase TechTool Pro (v. 4.1.1) which has a module for scanning the disk for bad blocks. However, repairing the drive can only be done by reformatting.

Need to do a clean install of FF31 after bad sectors on HDD caused installed FF to crash Windows upon opening.

After running MRT update on Windows XP SP3, I rebooted my PC, and CHKDSK found and repaired four bad sectors on my HDD. After this, starting Firefox 31.0, even in Safe Mode, would cause Windows to freeze at the point the FF window appeared. No menus, no toolbars, just the window with the basic frame, but nothing inside it. All input devices were non-responsive, forcing me to do a hardware restart of my machine.
Upon restart, everything else worked fine until I tried to start FF - then the OS froze again.
Searching Firefox support, all answers I could find suggested deleting old (possibly corrupt) profile data with Profile Manager before reinstalling FF - but, if FF freezes the machine upon starting, there is no way to do that.
How do I MANUALLY delete all old profile data, other Firefox data files, and registry entries from my PC so that I can do a clean install of FF 31.0?
NOTE: The information given about my browser under "More System Details" is mostly WRONG. I am currently using the only browser that works - the outdated Orca Browser v1.2 with a Firefox 3 core. It is FF 31.0 that I am asking help with.
Thank you in advance for any help you may be able to provide.

You must totally remove Firefox. It sounds like part of it's programing
was corrupted. Then '''[http://www.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/all/ Download Firefox Full Installer All languages]''' {web link}
After installing, try FF. If your user file are okay, Great!
*1 Download the Full installer and put it somewhere.
*2 Rename your current '''C:\Program Files (x86)\Mozilla Maintenance Service''' and '''C:\Program Files (x86)\Mozilla Firefox'''. Add a '''X''' in front of the name (for example).
*3 Run the disk check '''AGAIN''' just to be sure.
*4 Now get the full installer and run it.
*5 After the installer is done, then try out FF.

Macintosh HD can't be mounted, keys out of order and repairing can't be completed

Hi,
English isn't my mother tongue so I'll make my best to be understood.
I have a Macbook Pro from 2012, running on Yosemite (latest version). I installed Onyx which told me my disk needed to be verified and repaired. Following this advice, I restarted my computer with Disk Utility and completed a verifying and repairing. Which led to a terrible outcome. Since then, everytime I boot with my user on my Mac, my computer shuts down in the middle of the progress bar. I tried to find an explanation to it and fix it, so I tried the following things:
1) I booted with CMD + R to go into Disk Utility
2) I runned a verify Disk on "Macintosh HD" Core Storage Logical Volume Disk, which didn't give me any error
3) I unlocked "Macintosh HD" Mounted encrypted partition and runned a verify disk, which says :
"Keys out of order
The volume Macintosh HD was found corrupt and needs to be repaired.
File system check exit code is 8.
Error : the disk needs to be repaired, Repair disk."
4) Unfortunately, the "repair disk" button is grayed.
5) So I runned repair Disk on "Macintosh HD" Core Storage Logical Volume Disk, which didn't give me any error.
6) I tried to boot my computer again but it still shuts down when trying to open my user.
7) Did all the same process again, but now the error is "Keys length incorrect" and repairing is now always blocked in the middle of the progress bar.
Is there any way I could extract the data I care about (photos, etc.) before erasing the disk or buying a new one?

There's hardware and software.
Your drive could physically be in good condition but something has caused the file structure to be messed up (it just happens sometimes). The directory that keep track of files is corrupt. Disk Utility can help determine if that is the issue. In some cases it can repair the problem but it cannot do it to a drive that is being used to boot the system while you are doing that. You have to boot from another drive. Some things DU cannot repair and you need to try a stronger utility such as Diskwarrior.
A failing hard drive (one with mechanical issues) can be a cause of file structure issues but this is by no means always the case. Apart from looking at the SMART diagnosis feature of Disk Utility (and smart isn't totally reliable) there often isn't a way to tell if a drive is failing until it suddenly happens, which is why you need to maintain backups.
In your situation it does sound serious and not just minor directory corruption. You can try erasing (formatting) the drive, You may need to do this if it is really corrupt, in which case there could be underlying physical issues. I use old technology but if you have the patience you can try erasing the drive with the security option of writing zeros once (don't do more unless you are going on a 3 week vacation). This makes the drive not simply assume everything is okay by forcing it try every part of the drive by writing data. If something is gong wrong you may find it marks a lot of bad sectors, or flat out refuses to format. Then you know you need a new drive.

Toshiba DT01ACA050 too many bad sectors on first 5 months

Hi Good day,
I bought a toshiba internal drive 500gb(sealed) from my friend but after weird behavior on my pc I found out that it has too many bad sectors detected by HD tune pro and HDsentinel. He insisted that the drive is in good condition because it was
sealed thus he don't cover it for personal warranty and further instructed that I must be the one to RMA it but dont know how I live in the Philippines and don't have experience rma'ing a hard drive yet. Also it's weird coz it shows a different product model (Hitachi) instead of Toshiba DT model as seen on my hard drive cover.
Win7 32bit
foxconn h55
core - i3
tru rated power supply 500w
other hdd wd 500gb
*Additional info
Hard Disk Summary
Hard Disk Number,0
Interface,"S-ATA Gen3, 6 Gbps"
Disk Controller,"Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller (ATA) [VEN: 8086, DEV: 3B20]"
Disk Location,"Channel 1, Target 0, Lun 0, Device: 0"
Hard Disk Model ID,Hitachi HDS721050DLE630
Firmware Revision,MS1OA650
Hard Disk Serial Number,MSK423Y20Y68LC
Total Size,476937 MB
Power State,Active
Logical Drive(s)
Logical Drive,H: [MUSIC-MOVIES-BACKUP]
Logical Drive,H: [MUSIC-MOVIES-BACKUP]
ATA Information
Hard Disk Cylinders,969021
Hard Disk Heads,16
Hard Disk Sectors,63
ATA Revision,ATA8-ACS version 4
Transport Version,SATA Rev 2.6
Total Sectors,122096646
Bytes Per Sector,4096 [Advanced Format]
Buffer Size,23652 KB
Multiple Sectors,16
Error Correction Bytes,56
Unformatted Capacity,476940 MB
Maximum PIO Mode,4
Maximum Multiword DMA Mode,2
Maximum UDMA Mode,6 Gbps (6)
Active UDMA Mode,6 Gbps (5)
Minimum multiword DMA Transfer Time,120 ns
Recommended Multiword DMA Transfer Time,120 ns
Minimum PIO Transfer Time Without IORDY,120 ns
Minimum PIO Transfer Time With IORDY,120 ns
ATA Control Byte,Valid
ATA Checksum Value,Valid
Acoustic Management Configuration
Acoustic Management,Not supported
Acoustic Management,Disabled
Current Acoustic Level,Default (00h)
Recommended Acoustic Level,Default (00h)
ATA Features
Read Ahead Buffer,"Supported, Enabled"
DMA,Supported
Ultra DMA,Supported
S.M.A.R.T.,Supported
Power Management,Supported
Write Cache,Supported
Host Protected Area,Supported
Advanced Power Management,"Supported, Disabled"
Extended Power Management,"Supported, Enabled"
Power Up In Standby,Supported
48-bit LBA Addressing,Supported
Device Configuration Overlay,Supported
IORDY Support,Supported
Read/Write DMA Queue,Not supported
NOP Command,Supported
Trusted Computing,Not supported
64-bit World Wide ID,0050A3CCCD7F5346
Streaming,Supported
Media Card Pass Through,Not supported
General Purpose Logging,Supported
Error Logging,Supported
CFA Feature Set,Not supported
CFast Device,Not supported
Long Physical Sectors (8),Supported
Long Logical Sectors,Not supported
Write-Read-Verify,Not supported
NV Cache Feature,Not supported
NV Cache Power Mode,Not supported
NV Cache Size,Not supported
Free-fall Control,Not supported
Free-fall Control Sensitivity,Not supported
Nominal Media Rotation Rate,7200 RPM
SSD Features
Data Set Management,Not supported
TRIM Command,Not supported
Deterministic Read After TRIM,Not supported
S.M.A.R.T. Details
Off-line Data Collection Status,Successfully Completed
Self Test Execution Status,Successfully Completed
Total Time To Complete Off-line Data Collection,4444 seconds
Execute Off-line Immediate,Supported
Abort/restart Off-line By Host,Not supported
Off-line Read Scanning,Supported
Short Self-test,Supported
Extended Self-test,Supported
Conveyance Self-test,Not supported
Selective Self-Test,Supported
Save Data Before/After Power Saving Mode,Supported
Enable/Disable Attribute Autosave,Supported
Error Logging Capability,Supported
Short Self-test Estimated Time,1 minutes
Extended Self-test Estimated Time,74 minutes
Last Short Self-test Result,Never Started
Last Short Self-test Date,Never Started
Last Extended Self-test Result,Never Started
Last Extended Self-test Date,Never Started
Security Mode
Security Mode,Supported
Security Erase,Supported
Security Erase Time,98 minutes
Security Enhanced Erase Feature,Not supported
Security Enhanced Erase Time,Not supported
Security Enabled,No
Security Locked,No
Security Frozen,Yes
Security Counter Expired,No
Security Level,High
Serial ATA Features
S-ATA Compliance,Yes
S-ATA I Signaling Speed (1.5 Gps),Supported
S-ATA II Signaling Speed (3 Gps),Supported
S-ATA Gen3 Signaling Speed (6 Gps),Supported
Receipt Of Power Management Requests From Host,Supported
PHY Event Counters,Supported
Non-Zero Buffer Offsets In DMA Setup FIS,"Supported, Disabled"
DMA Setup Auto-Activate Optimization,"Supported, Disabled"
Device Initiating Interface Power Management,"Supported, Disabled"
In-Order Data Delivery,"Supported, Disabled"
Asynchronous Notification,Not supported
Software Settings Preservation,"Supported, Enabled"
Native Command Queuing (NCQ),Supported
Queue Length,32
Disk Information
Disk Family,Deskstar 7K1000.D
Form Factor,"3.5"" "
Capacity,"500 GB (500 x 1,000,000,000 bytes)"
Number Of Disks,1
Number Of Heads,1
Rotational Speed,7200 RPM
Rotation Time,8.33 ms
Average Rotational Latency,4.17 ms
Disk Interface,Serial-ATA/600
Buffer-Host Max. Rate,600 MB/seconds
Buffer Size,32768 KB
Drive Ready Time (typical),? seconds
Average Seek Time,? ms
Track To Track Seek Time,? ms
Full Stroke Seek Time,? ms
Width,101.6 mm (4.0 inch)
Depth,147.0 mm (5.8 inch)
Height,26.1 mm (1.0 inch)
Weight,450 grams (1.0 pounds)
Required power for spinup,"3,300 mA"
Power required (seek),7.0 W
Power required (idle),5.0 W
Power required (standby),2.0 W
Manufacturer,Hitachi Global Storage Technologies
Manufacturer Website,http://www.hgst.com

Hi! Sense no one is replying. If your getting bad sectors; it's time to save your data and replace your HD. It's only a matter of time before your HD fails.
Dokie!!
PS I'm feeling a little crazy tonight. Nice friend you have (not)
I Love my Satellite L775D-S7222 Laptop. Some days you're the windshield, Some days you're the bug. The Computer world is crazy. If you have answers to computer problems, pass them forward.

Bad Sectors counts and repair

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