Basic Advice for Framerate in FCP

Let me start by saying that I'm not the most technically grounded editor out there. So if you can keep your answers as jargon free as possible, I'd appreciate it. Here's a thumbnail sketch of what we're doing...
We shoot with a couple of different cameras. One a JVC that shoots 720p 24 frame, and the Canon XL H1 that shoots 1080 24 frame. Or I guess to be more accurate, we're setting each camera up to shoot 24 frame.
Our main client is a TV station that as of yet hasn't gone HD. So we're ingesting the video HD, and then editing in a timeline with the following settings.
720x480 NTSC DV (3:2) Pixel Aspect CCIR 601, Anamorphic, Timebase 29.97
Now most of the time, things look pretty good, but we've had some video, especially quick moves and the like, where there's what I'd describe as 'ghost like' artifacting...
I suspect that we've gotten ourselves into trouble by shooting in 24 frame, and then editing in drop frame 29.97
Can someone give me some really simple feedback as to how we'd be better off? Possibly link me to something I can read up on? Appreciate any help someone can give!
Brent

Differences between 24p and 24pA in DV
Quoting Graeme Nattress' article found at Ken Stone's site:
http://www.kenstone.net/fcphomepage/24p_in_FCPnattress.html
"24p Normal
When shooting in 24p Normal, the camera is adding normal standard 3:2 pulldown to the video, which results in 24p footage designed to work with any non-linear editing suite and it will play back and look good directly to any NTSC monitor. You can use 24p Normal footage just like normal video from any DV camera, and everything will work fine, but obviously, the footage will have a film look to it. If you’re just going straight back to NTSC video tape, then using 24p Normal is the simplest, easiest workflow. No special treatment of the footage is needed and you really can just edit as normal.
24p Advanced
Before you shoot 24p Advanced, you should fully understand it’s workflow implications. If you watch 24p Advanced footage before you’ve removed it’s pulldown, then it will look a bit jumpy and jerky. This is totally correct, because 24p Advanced is not designed to be viewed as is.
To use 24p Advanced and gain all it’s advantages, you should know that you cannot edit it as is (as this would leave it’s jerky looking pulldown intact), but you must first remove it’s pulldown. Final Cut Pro will do this for you, leaving you with the 24p footage without any of the extra “padding” fields that are added to make it’s frame rate 29.97fps. Now that your footage is 23.98fps, it must be edited on a 23.98fps timeline, and this can cause problems if you, for instance, want to include other footage, B-Roll, or stock footage, that comes from a different source. However, once you have your finished edit at 23.98fps, you can make a 24p DVD, which will allow you to compress your MPEG2 less than if you were making a normal 29.97fps NTSC DVD, and hence attain higher picture quality. Similarly, if you’re making a web movie, you will find it easier to get a higher quality result from 23.98fps media than normal NTSC media. 23.98fps movies are also easier to take out to film that 29.97fps movies.
If you are editing in a 23.98fps timeline, Final Cut Pro will add pulldown on the fly, over Firewire, so that you can see your movie on a normal NTSC monitor. Similarly, it will add pulldown when going back to DV tape. However, this will not work on a non-DV format output, say to Digital Betacam, and slower Macintoshes do not have the power to add 3:2 pulldown in realtime, falling back to lower quality pulldowns which although are not too bad while editing, will not make the final project look as acceptably good on television as a final product."
What that tells me is that 24P just adds a "look" of 24 fps to the footage that resembles that of telecined film, but that you work with normally at 29.97fps. Or, if you want to, you can add a reverse telecine and work at 23.98. Either way.
BUT, with 24PA, the footage looks jittery when played on the tape. So sure, you can work with it and output it to tape, but that tape is useless to anyone OTHER than someone who can capture it and perform a reverse telecine to work with it. It will not work as a Master tape for any viewable purpose: Broadcast TV, projected video from tape, a master tape for dubbing purposes. So, in effect, it is useless as a tape master, and should be avoided.
If you happen to have a 23.98 sequence and need to output a 29.97 master, any good capture card (www.aja.com, www.decklink.com) will add the proper pulldown when it outputs.
Shane

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